Dress and Fashion, “Rosista” Style 31
FashionNation: The Politics of Dress and Gender in 19th Century Argentine Journalism (1829-1880) by Susan Hallstead B.A. in Spanish, University of Pittsburgh, 1997 M.A. in Hispanic Literature, University of Pittsburgh, 2005 Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of the Department of Hispanic Languages and Literatures in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy University of Pittsburgh 2005 i UNIVERSITY OF PITTSBURGH ARTS AND SCIENCES This dissertation was presented by Susan Hallstead It was defended on December 12, 2005 and approved by Mabel Moraña, PhD, Professor Gerald Martin, PhD, Professor Jerome Branche, PhD, Associate Professor Susan Andrade, PhD, Associate Professor Dissertation Director: Mabel Moraña, PhD, Professor ii Copyright © by Susan Hallstead 2005 iii TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Introduction 1 2. Forced Traditions, Forged Equality: Dress and Fashion, “Rosista” Style 31 2.1. Entering a New World Order: Of Essence, Appearance and Peinetones 33 2.2. The Brute of all Brutes, the Tiger of all Tigers: Rosas, the Rosista Dress Code and the othering of the Lettered City 66 2.3. Rosas and the Afro-Argentine: The Relationship of Race and Dress in the Rosista Era 92 3. Challenging Barbarism and Waging Wars of Images: Argentina’s Men of Letters find Fashion (1829-1852) 113 3.1. Early Argentine Journalism and National Politics: The Challenges of the Post-Independence Period 118 3.2. Fashion’s Appearance at the Intellectual Round Table: Consumption, Citizenship and the Ideal Unitarist 130 3. 3. The Foundational Parameters of Argentine Nationalism: Fashion, Civilization and Barbarism 183 4. After Caseros: Women Write on Fashion, Nation and Politics 206 4.1.
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