The Early History of American Nutrition Research from Quality to Quantity
Chapter One The Early History of American Nutrition Research From Quality to Quantity On May 15, 1862, President Abraham Lincoln approved a bill to establish the United States Department of Agriculture. The USDA was born with $60,000 in six rooms in the basement of the Patent Offi ce building.1 Draw- ing from the European import of a scientifi c approach to agriculture, which relied largely on the nascent fi eld of chemistry, the USDA’s directive was to advance scientifi c research. The department was “laying the foundation for becoming a great science-producing agency of government” (Cochrane, 1993, p. 96). It was the expressed goal of the newfound department to: “Test by experiment the use of agricultural implements and the value of seeds, soils, manures, and animals; undertake the chemical investigation of soils, grains, fruits, vegetables, and manures, publishing the results.”2 From cotton to cattle to cucumbers, the USDA had an array of directions in which to take their scientifi c research. In the years after the approval of this bill, federally funded scientists, in USDA-sanctioned labs, set to unearthing the chemical components of food, and the physiological processes of digestion. Chemists used the pro- cess of calorimetry to break food down into calories, fats, proteins, and carbohydrates. Techniques of dehydration, precipitation, and combustion reduced foods to their constituent molecular parts. These experiments, as well as experiments using the calorimeter to quantify human action, ren- dered the relationship between food and eater measurable. The emerging 21 © 2009 State University of New York Press, Albany 22 Measured Meals science of nutrition introduced the notion of the balanced human-food equation based on the zero-waste model of the combustion engine.
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