TROUBLES AT ESPRIT/5 KAMALI, SPIEGEL BACK TOGETHER/21 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • October 3, 2005 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Cactus Flower MILAN — There are many ways of interpreting the current less-is-more fashion message, and the one Donatella Versace chose for her spring Versace collection was particularly effective. She dropped overt dazzle and bright shades in favor of beautiful desert colors, including plenty of beige. But she didn’t give up drama — as this beauty in a cactus-patterned dress shows. For more on the season, see pages 6 to 13.

Dresses to the Rescue: Save Otherwise Safe, Chaotic Milan Season By WWD Staff MILAN — It’s hard to be angry at pretty dresses. After a grueling, controversial and often-underwhelming Milan season, that key item cheered retailers, many of whom left the Italian fashion capital with a positive assessment about the feminine, if safe, direction for spring-summer. “It was a good, solid week with good commercial pieces,” said Robert Burke, senior vice president of fashion at Bergdorf Goodman. “I thought Milan was much more feminine and refined than it has been. We saw a lot of beautiful eveningwear.” See Dresses, Page11 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 WWD.COM Wal-Mart Shuffles Exec Pair WWDMONDAY By Katherine Bowers John seas operations.’’ Menzer Kurt Barnard, president of Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear BOSTON — Wal-Mart Stores Inc. Barnard’s Consulting Group, is flipping the roles of two of its said that, in trying executives top domestic and international in new roles, Scott is taking a FASHION executives as the world’s largest page from the playbook of Wal- Fashion is headed into quieter waters and for many designers that meant a retailer seeks to grow sales. Mart founder Sam Walton. 6 shift to desert tones, white or gray, although for some, brights still ruled. John B. Menzer, chief execu- “Lee Scott may be in the tive officer of Wal-Mart Inter- process of testing possible suc- GENERAL national, will run the much larg- cessors,” Barnard said. After an underwhelming Milan season, the dress emerged as a savior and er Wal-Mart U.S. business, which Walton’s successor, ceo lifted retailers’ spirits about the feminine, if safe, direction for spring. has 3,124 stores and $191.8 bil- David Glass, switched Scott 1 lion fiscal 2005 revenue. He also from logistics into merchandis- Wal-Mart Stores is flipping the roles of two of its top domestic and will oversee real estate, logis- ing at a key juncture in Scott’s 2 international executives as the world’s largest retailer seeks to grow sales. tics, information services, bene- career. Trouble seems to be brewing at Esprit, where three executives have left, key fits, global procurement, finan- Menzer was Wal-Mart’s chief 5 stores have dropped the brand and licensing agreements are on hold. cial services, store planning and financial officer before run- strategic planning. ning its international business. Michael T. Duke will be in Duke, who joined Wal-Mart EYE charge of 1.587 international in 2003 after a 23-year career Catching up with Erika Christensen, who costars in “Flight Plan” and begins stores that generated $56.3 bil- with Federated and May De- 4 filming “Gardener of Eden” next month in New York. lion, the company’s fastest-grow- partment Stores, has had ups ing sector and its main opportu- and downs leading the U.S. di- nity for significant expansion. vision. Stale merchandise and Classified Advertisements ...... 25-27

Menzer and Duke both will PHOTO BEHRING/LANDOV NATALIE BY problematic pricing led to dis- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is be vice chairmen. [email protected], using the individual’s name.

Wal-Mart, based in Benton- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 ville, Ark., in August reported Lee Scott may be in the process FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. its smallest quarterly profit in- VOLUME 190, NO. 71. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one “ additional issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional crease in four years as higher of testing possible successors. issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. oil prices chilled consumer ” PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. spending. — Kurt Barnard, Barnard’s Consulting Group Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. 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Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Wal-Mart president and ceo ability and the management facing stiff headwinds from DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE H. Lee Scott said Menzer will confidence to delegate respon- record gas prices, an anti-Wal- INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; “continue to accelerate sibility to the best people in his Mart campaign organized by or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. 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MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE BOSTON — Saks Fifth Avenue’s Saks president and chief operat- The overhaul will add 10,000 ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. flagship here is getting a $25 ing officer, reached via cell square feet of selling space, million-plus makeover as the re- phone in Milan. “It is a very pro- boost service amenities and im- MONDAY: Paris Ready-to-Wear Collections (through tailer modernizes key stores. ductive store. It will be our most prove traffic flow. The store, Oct. 11). “Consumers vote for us in modern store as part of our evo- part of the Copley Place com- Boston,’’ said Andrew Jennings, lution, and a new look for Saks.” plex downtown, will stay open WEDNESDAY: Interstoff Asia, Hong Kong (through through construction, which is Friday). slated to be completed in Burlington Coat Factory reports first-quarter sales August. and earnings. “We are always looking at that ONE POINT. MANY RESOURCES. customer who hasn’t had the THURSDAY: Major U.S. retailers report same-store Saks type of customer service,” sales for September. Jennings said. “We are always Asia Pacific Leather Fair Fashion Access, Hong trying to evolve customers into Kong (through Saturday). clients, and then into friends and Tranoi Femme, Paris (through Sunday). Consultants to the brand ambassadors.” Workshop Paris and Le Showroom, Paris (through Jewelry & Watch Design and merchandise Oct. 10). Industry specifics for Boston will be dis- Oxford Industries reports first-quarter sales and closed in March, Jennings said. earnings. Manhattan architects Gabellini Associates is leading the re- FRIDAY: Premiere Classe, Paris Sur Mode, Atmosphère design. d’Eté and 19 Vendome, Paris (through Oct. 10). Saks, based in Birmingham, The U.S. Labor Department releases the Ala., is also relaunching the September employment report. Atlanta and San Antonio doors,

and upgrading some portions of COMING THISSATURDAY: WEEK National Bridal Market, Chicago (through Mergers & Executive the San Francisco store. Oct. 11). Acquisitions Recruitment — Katherine Bowers SUNDAY: Diamonds by JCK, New York (through Oct. 10). Las Vegas International Lingerie Show (through Oct. 11). Connection to Valuable Resources Corrections The incorrect photo ran with an item on designer Matthew Ames in “Paris Preview, Ones to Watch” on page 14, Thursday. The correct photo is pic- tured here. 350 Fifth Ave. P (646) 473-1640 ● ● ● Suite 5614 F (646) 473-1643 New York, NY 10118 www.kaisertime.com Have you been gloved yet? The Sienna Miller photo on page 13 of the Sept. 29 WWD was incorrectly credited. The photo was taken by Dave Yoder. 212.869.2143 PURPLE VELVET Traditionally the fabric of kings, the new opulent and luxurious color of Purple Velvet will add potency and lustre to textile, jewelry and accessory designs. Find more detailed information on the Purple Velvet product assortment and other Swarovski innovations for Autumn/Winter 2006/2007 in our CRYSTALLIZEDTM magazine, available as of 1 September 2005 and on www.swarovski.com/business

SWAROVSKI NORTH AMERICA LTD., Crystal Components Business · 1 Kenney Drive, Cranston, Rhode Island 02920, USA, Tel: +1 401 463 5132,Fax: +1 401 463 4707, Toll free: 1 800 463 0849, [email protected] SWAROVSKI CREATIVE SERVICE CENTER · 29 West 57th Street, 8th Floor, New York, NY 10019, Tel: +1 212 935 4200, Fax: +1 212 935 8800, Toll free: 1 877 888 7980 4 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 WWD.COM Erika Christensen Learning Curves BURBANK, Calif. — Weathering bad fashion moments can be tough, but having to do it under the glare of paparazzi flashbulbs is worse. Just ask Erika Christensen, who remembers her share of public eye® fashion blunders after becoming a Hollywood ingenue five years ago with her breakout role in “Traffic.” Now the starlet is finally beginning to find her fashion groove — and not a moment too soon. “When I first started going on the red carpet, I wore a lot of Armani, but I didn’t really have my own style apart from that. I think I was just lazy,” says Christensen, 23, who costars in the current hit “Flight Plan,” with Jodie Foster, and begins filming the drama “Gardener of Eden” next month in New York opposite Lukas Haas. “I went through this rebel period where I didn’t want to dress up.” But thanks to her stylish roommate, Satine boutique co-owner Sophia Banks, and a recent visit to New York Fashion Week, Christensen is embracing her sartorial side. For lunch at a small Burbank cafe, she dressed in cropped jeans, a vintage vest and Balenciaga flats. “Sophia and I both have these shoes. We’re obsessed with them,” she says. Of course, that hasn’t stopped her from raiding her roommate’s closet for other pieces, such as a Scanlon & Theodore cardigan she deems “incredible.” Christensen isn’t shy about proclaiming things she likes. “I was at the Oscar de la Renta show, and while everyone was whispering about this gown or that dress, I couldn’t help blurting out, ‘Wow!’ really loud, because I was so blown away.” She also attended Narciso Rodriguez and Roland Mouret, for whom she hosted a party. “I love his clothes because he cuts for a woman’s body. I’m not straight up and down. I have curves.” Indeed, Christensen is one of the few young actresses working today who doesn’t appear painfully thin, something she attributes to reading nutrition books and working out. “I know lots of people who eat raw, vegetarian or vegan. I’m not into any of those things. I believe in eating enough so your body will actually run,” she says, biting into a goat cheese and spinach sandwich. “People look their most beautiful when they’re healthy.” She then pops a handful of vitamins, which she washes down with plenty of tea. Christensen got her start in the business after making her debut at 13 in a “Leave It to Beaver” remake, following it up with “Traffic” three years later. She then starred in a string of high school dramas, which she finds amusing because she was home-schooled herself. “Gardener of Eden,” directed by “Entourage” star Kevin Connolly and produced by Leonardo DiCaprio, is a love story of sorts, in which she plays a woman who becomes involved with a “Taxi Driver”-type vigilante, played by Haas. “I think it’ll be really good,” she says, “and I’m looking forward to making new friends. I also can’t wait to wear scarves and sweaters in New York!” — Marcy Medina

For those who might have a few moments to spare BIRTHDAY BOY during Paris Fashion Week, here are a few new spots to Who wouldn’t want to celebrate an check out for either imbibing, inspiration or sheer relaxation. anniversary with Dior? And that’s exactly PARIS SCENE how vintage guru Didier Ludot will fete his DEAR LIZA 30th year in business. Well, almost. Ludot After working at several will show 60 Dior pieces from his private five-star Paris hotels, Liza collection in what he is dubbing a “couture Soughayar has cultivated a walk” in and around his shop in the Palais deep understanding of Royal. There will be Dior creations, from the service and chic — lessons master himself to his protégé, Yves Saint she applied seamlessly to Laurent; John Galliano, and Hedi Slimane. “I her first restaurant here, wanted to make it modern,” says Ludot. “So Chez Liza, a stylish repair I’m mixing past and present to show the for what might well be the enduring codes of the house.” Having opened city’s most delicious with a cocktail party on Sunday, Ludot’s show Lebanese food. The menu is slated to run for three weeks. changes daily according Didier Ludot, 24 Galerie Montpensier, 75001; to the market offerings, 33-0-1-42-96-06-56. and the ambience is coolly feminine, with a decor created by Lebanese A Dior artisans under the dress at direction of interior Didier architect Hubert Fattal. Ludot. But it’s the food that stands out. House specialties include lamb with five spices and an innovative selection of fresh Lebanese starters, such as smoked eggplant Klimt’s “Portrait of Mada Primavesi.” and fattouche salad. “I ART SMARTS wanted to remain Paris has always been cosmopolitan. And traditional, but with A cozy nowhere is that more evident than in the city’s cuisine that was light and museums this fall, starting with the “Vienna corner at modern,” explains the 1900” exhibition at the Grand Palais — owner. Chez Liza. Chez Liza, 14 Rue de la sponsored by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Banque, 75002; 33-0-1-55-35-00-66; closed Sunday and Monday. Vuitton — that draws on works from Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele. The Musée d’Orsay has installed a revealing exhibit of late 19th- WHEN IT SIZZLES century Russian art. And the Centre The crew that turned Le Baron into Paris’ grooviest bar, attracting the likes Pompidou is reassessing the Dadaists — of Sofia Coppola and Jarvis Cocker, has a new hot spot — Paris Paris, a sponsored by Yves Saint Laurent — with a former basement cabaret club. It’s slated to open today with Paul Sevigny major show. Photography buffs, meanwhile, (Chlöe’s brother) and his band, ARE Weapon, tapped to perform all fashion can take in work from the likes of Karl week long. “We wanted to make it more rock ’n’ roll than Le Baron,” says Le Lagerfeld, Jeff Koons and Allen Ginsberg at the Baron boss Andre, who only goes by his first name. “La Photographie En Parallèle” exhibition at Paris Paris, 5 Avenue de l’Opera, 75001. the Maison Européenne de la Photographie. CHRISTENSEN PHOTO BY JEAN-PAUL AUSSENARD/WIREIMAGE JEAN-PAUL CHRISTENSEN PHOTO BY WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 5 WWD.COM Esprit Dealing With Uncertainty By Lauren DeCarlo ty store and the brand. “Since August 2004, partment stores.” we’ve grown to over 30 Nordstrom doors,” Piccione said that when they signed NEW YORK — Things are in flux at Esprit. Adenauer said. “We’re both successful, the licensing agreement with Esprit, the In recent months, three top executives earning money and growing. Nordstrom is brand was making a push with its retail have resigned, key department stores really taking care of our brand and our business. “We’re hoping they can build have stopped carrying the brand and a image. It’s like a marriage and we want to more of a demand for the product in the number of licensing agreements have strengthen it and support it. It’s a success department stores,” he said. been put on hold. In addition, Esprit will story,” he said. A similar arrangement exists with cease U.S. distribution of Collection In addition, a number of licensing Providence, R.I.-based Uncas Manu- women’s suits and career clothes, as well agreements have been put on hold while facturing, which holds the license for as the entire men’s wear line. the brand refigures its approach in the Esprit jewelry. “We’re waiting for them to Carmine Porcelli, director of Esprit U.S. market. get through some of their internal issues,” U.S.; Jack Schwefel, executive vice presi- “We’ve been on hold for about a year said Steve Verducci, director of brands for dent of North American retail, and with Esprit,” said Mark Piccione, the ex- Uncas. “They’re in the process of refocus- Derong Yang, global image director, have ecutive vice president of sales at the ing the stores they’re going to target, so all resigned. New York-based Geneva Watch Co., once we know that, we’ll be in a better po- “It was time for me to move on,” said which has held the Esprit license to cre- sition to attack globally.” Porcelli, a 30-year veteran of the fashion ate watches for the past two-and-a-half Esprit, a 37-year-old brand, is owned industry. Porcelli joined Esprit in years. “We’re waiting for the end of this by Esprit Holdings Ltd., a Hong Kong- February 2004 as director of licensing year to see if they build business in de- based, publicly traded firm. The Esprit store in SoHo opened in August. and was named to his most recent post in August 2004. Earlier he was managing director of Bonjour, prior to which he was the licens- ing director at Oscar de la Renta, managing director at Halston International and a consultant at Bill Blass. Porcelli said he has no immediate plans and that he “offi- cially left” Esprit in July. Schwefel declined comment and Yang couldn’t be reached. Esprit has struggled lately in the U.S. market, both on the whole- sale and retail fronts. After almost disappearing entirely from the American market, Esprit opened three freestanding boutiques in New York in the past year selling women’s, men’s, edc juniors and accessories. However, projected sales at the stores, according to a source close to the company, are 30 to 75 percent lower than had been anticipated. The source went on to say that roughly 20 Esprit employ- ees based in the U.S. are expected to be laid off this week. ITED However, Andreas Adenauer, president of Esprit North America, denied the claim the employees will be laid off and said the changes within the company are due in part to a reorganization in structure which would allow the company to build up brand recogni- tion in the U.S. Adenauer said the company is learning what works in the U.S. market and what doesn’t. “Some of our retail stores were underplanned. We overdid the di- vision mix from baby to sport in both women’s and mens’,” he said. “We overstretched the consumer. But we’re learning and we’re going on, not aggressively, but wisely.” Adenauer said since Esprit has been absent from the U.S. market for 15 years, the brand is not seen as a “destination spot” for shoppers. “We are definitely perceived as a brand here and we’re well-known, but we’re not a destination. We have to focus on triple-A locations in the future, like our shop in SoHo or the Garden State Plaza Mall. At these locations, we can build the brand and go from there,” he said. Currently, a number of whole-

It’s all OFIt’s CREATIVITY. at the HOUSE NEW October 20 –24, 2005 STEP INTO THE ALL NEW SHOE STUDIO

sale accounts have ceased selling UNLIM the Esprit casual women’s and edc AMERICASMART®IATLANTA FLOOR 3 brands. According to a source, Dillard’s received its last shipment Atlanta Women’s & Children’s in late spring; Macy’s East received its last shipments last November; Apparel/Accessories Market® | October 20–24, 2005 Macy’s West received its last ship- ments in June, and Marshall Field’s AMERICASMART PREMIERE® | October 21–23, 2005 is currently receiving its last ship- ment. At this time, Nordstrom is the only major store to carry the brand. AmericasMart.com/Apparel | 800.ATL.MART But Adenauer said the decision to wholesale only to Nordstrom is a ©2005 AMC, Inc. “win-win” situation for the special- 6 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005

ShadesFashion is headed into quieter waters, and for many designers,of that meant a change Differe in their palettes to desert tones, white or black. For some,

Versace: Minimal means different things to different people. To Versace Miu Miu Donatella Versace, it means trading in frenetic flash for the toned-down tenor of the desert. Versace’s new, sultry restraint struck her during a recent visit to Palm Springs, translating into a strong collection almost as colorless as the desert itself. And every bit as steamy. This was Versace at her most controlled. Her preferred palette? Believe it or not, sand, aka beige, that much- maligned symbol of fashion blah. But Donatella made it bloom like a desert flower, sometimes in delicate ombrés, its tones changing as if with the sun. Those changes more than flattered the Versace girl, who remains a major diva, still coiffed and keenly aware of her impact, even storming the runway in packs of like-minded, newly refined glamazons. She doesn’t need bold colors, unrelenting dazzle or even loud prints, not when she can slip into a fabulous dress cut from curve-loving jersey or pull on a fine-gauge sweater over skinny pants. When she tires of the sands, Versace offered two options: a subdued cactus print, and another with an amusing hotel-swimming pool motif, its moody blues keeping it from swinging too kitsch. For evening, Donatella will always go high impact. But her quiet palette gave her gowns — slashed to there, cut out in back and sometimes all aglitter in crystal embroidery — a new refinement while retaining the heat. Now that’s desert power.

Miu Miu: Life isn’t a frill a minute, but that doesn’t mean a girl can’t still feel like a girl. Happily, she can turn to Miuccia Prada, whose constant forward motion has become an enduring trend in itself. With dresses all the rage these days, at Miu Miu, Prada delivered them differently than elsewhere in Milan — hers pared, straightened and defutzed, sometimes with a hint of the Sixties, heightened by the models’ poufy ponytails. Within that, Prada offered considerable range: silk star prints, almost cartoon-like in their asymmetry, and crisp, large-scale eyelets worn over black briefs for propriety’s sake. Still, some girls want to flaunt fashion’s new minimalism more obviously. They can step out in tailored chambrays in combinations of light and dark grays, or surprisingly chic ribbed knit suspender shorts. Of course, Prada is a woman of many moods, and one who can propose two opposing thoughts simultaneously while making perfect sense. When it came to embellishment, she let her shoes do the talking. They came sparkled up, finished with giant crystal clips. It made for a charming finish to a long week in Milan. milan Roberto Cavalli: A Roberto Cavalli show is usually a good romp: thumping music, an over-the-top theme, staggering heels and outrageous attitude. He’s one designer who doesn’t take himself too seriously. Usually. But this season, instead of giving his audience a rollicking good time, Cavalli showed a collection that was — by Cavalli standards — flat. Sure the music was loud, the heels were high and the girls strutted with steamy purpose. Cavalli did not, however, hinge his look on any particular inspiration, instead letting a general sexiness lead the way. Ginghams — from a pair of pinup’s overalls to a ballgown worthy of Scarlett O’Hara — came first. A striped plastic trench and clear plastic jacket with red croc trim made a case for Mod. Siren gowns in ombréd chiffon trumpeted carnivale. Gold leathers, a fringed skirt and fringe-y bolero served up a little Golden Nugget chic. And he closed the show with a lineup of bare, barer, barest swimsuits. Cavalli’s look was as revved up as ever all right, but the collection lacked the razor-sharp vision that usually sets it apart.

Gianfranco Ferré: Gianfranco Ferré started his spring show with a serenade to Mexican senoras and senoritas in the form of a gentle parade of white that was as peaceful as a lullaby and muy bonita. Cotton voile blouses were prettified with smocked waists, strips of fretwork, narrow pleats and the occasional pom-pom edging. Sleeves billowed, and sometimes Ferré paired the shirts with pants or casual low-riding skirts or showed them under tailored jackets. When he pressed on with more colorful, heavier fare, the spell was broken. But soon enough, Ferré had the crowd entranced once again. And he knows just how to rile up the Milanese audience with high-drama eveningwear. This time, he sent out see-through serapes and spangled tops over grand taffeta skirts that drew gasps from ▼ Versace

Versace ▼ the crowd. Miu Miu WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 7 WWD.COM

Gianfranco Ferré

though,nce brights are still best. ▼ Gianfranco Ferré

Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli Miu Miu PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND MAURICIO MIRANDA GIANNONI AND MAURICIO GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 Doin’ What Come Some designers and houses simply followed their own inclinations for spring, with results ranging from pretty layer

Etro: Veronica Etro gathered together a flurry of some of the ▲

▲ Etro Blumarine boldest prints around — exotic arabesques, mandalas and scrolling florals — into one buoyant spring collection. On some runways, such a whirlwind of patterns and cultures would have sucked the air out of the room. But Etro is one of the family and knows her way around the house’s prints. And this was one of her best collections in seasons. She paired girlish chiffon blouses with full skirts printed like Iznik tiles, or lotus blossoms, feathery paisleys or sometimes a patchwork of all of the above. A butter yellow gown was appliquéd with smart black scrolls at the waist, while ombréd dresses in cobalt blue, deep jade and raspberry pink were wound round with wrapping ties. Striking in its confidence and its pretty attitude, Etro is on the right track.

Blumarine: The entry scene at Blumarine was sweet and seductive — dozens of long-stemmed roses strewn on round beds covered in floral silk sheets…champagne and hors d’oeuvres to tempt arriving guests. And what runway delicacies did Anna Molinari have in store for spring? Well, the pint-sized Italian designer referenced many points of inspiration — Cubism, Erte and the Seventies London store Biba — and then crammed them, at times haphazardly, into a single theme: the layered dress. It came short and long in chiffons, tulle and lace, and almost always had a gathered drop waist and a plunging V-neck, the better to reveal another layer of lace in the form of a slipdress. For effect, she tossed on the occasional oversized cardigan and set baubles, sequins and rose-bud embroidery on necklines, shoulders and pretty much anyplace she fancied. It was all a bit repetitive and overdone, to say the least. Yet Molinari showed moments of restraint, as in a terrific, low-slung double-breasted cardigan, which slouched nicely over a beaded ivory silk twill tank and wide black chiffon pants. Molinari is Milan’s prized confectioner of sugary feminine clothes, but this time, she overindulged her sweet tooth.

Moschino Cheap & Chic: “Truly Italian” was written on the green, white and red invitation for Moschino Cheap & Chic’s spunky spring collection. While the show’s opening exits — clusters of pasta, tomato and basil printed on black silk shirts or embroidered on sturdy linen miniskirts — took that statement literally, the rest of the show could better be described as ironically Italian. The Cheap & Chic girl may have Italy in her heart, but she’s also raring to leave Mamma’s home. So, once off the boat, milan this adorable fanciulla ditched her red, white and green ribbon wedges for more adventurous fare, which ran from terrific, such as a fuchsia-and-red taffeta dress with big hearts on the skirt, to questionable, such as a transparent raincoat seamed together with orange, green and purple ribbon. She experimented with smatterings of hippie printed chiffon dresses before finally settling down with some great red, white and blue polkadot skirts and nautical striped shirts.

Menichetti: Just minutes before the show, Roberto Menichetti described his collection as “revolutionary minimalism.” By Menichetti’s standards, that meant a more uptown, girly look worked with his staple sportswear undercurrent. This season, Menichetti played with both loose and slim shapes, counterbalancing trumpet-sleeved, side-wrap blouses; A-line skirts, and roomy gossamer knits with trim trenchcoats, fitted car coats and precisely cut blazers. As always, the focal Moschino point was exclusive fabrics, including a barrage of lightweight Cheap & Chic nylon, shiny silks, beefy cottons and cut-out lace. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 9 WWD.COM High Time

Spring accessories reached new heights with es Naturally striking wedges and structured bags. ered dresses to graphically printed skirts and even tops in pasta patterns. Giuseppe Zanotti

Moschino Menichetti Cheap & Chic

Tod’s

Sergio Rossi Bruno Magli

Hogan

Tod’s: Tod’s takes a high-spirited approach to spring with a group of cotton canvas bags and shoes featuring a witty print created by artist Michael Roberts, who turned Tod’s iconic driving shoes into boats pulling water-skiers.

Giuseppe Zanotti: Among his signature ornate shoes, Giuseppe Zanotti also offered sandals and wedges in black or brown leather, sans baubles, to complement spring’s more subdued looks.

Sergio Rossi: Edmundo Castillo’s diverse new collection of sexy shoes at Sergio Rossi includes favorites like rhinestone maharaja- inspired heels and superhigh graphic wedges.

Hogan: Hogan got a fresh spring look with shoes and bags inspired by the French Riviera. One of the highlights was a white structured canvas bag with bold yellow leather details.

Bruno Magli: At Bruno Magli, a selection of streamlined patent leather sandals made for a fresh, youthful collection. PHOTOS MIRANDA MAESTRI AND MAURICIO GIANNONI, DAVIDE GIOVANNI BY 10 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 Feminine Notions There are many different images of women, from supersexy sirens to romantic heroines, and a variety of them are turning up on the runways for spring.

Alessandro Dell’Acqua: He’s no stranger to the Trussardi Luisa boudoir as the creative mind guiding La Perla, so it’s Beccaria hardly a surprise that Alessandro Dell’Acqua served up some hypersexed looks for his signature line, as well. Drawing inspiration from Marilyn Monroe and Anna Magnani, Dell’Acqua showed a series of steamy bustier gowns done in his trademark chiffon-and-lace combos. He layered black lace and mesh over nude silks or coated chiffon with lacquer for a vamp effect. The bustier silhouette, however, grew as wearying as wearing one. Gimmicky detailing, such as a Plexiglas belt buckle shaped like a pair of lips — bogged down an already perplexing collection. Still, Dell’Acqua proved that he is capable of toning it down, something he should have done more often. He doesn’t need to coat a woman in crystals when a well-cut, lace-overlay skirt and well-tailored shirt would complement a woman’s curves just as well, if not better.

Sportmax: For spring, Sportmax filled its runway with a bevy of fresh-faced Lolitas all dolled up in pretty blush colors and lean graphic shapes. The design team shunned florals in favor of stripes in all forms — horizontal, vertical, awning-wide or pencil- thin — for maillots, pristine skirts, Bermuda shorts and nymphet-esque cocktail frocks. There were also pristine white cotton flared camisoles and wide-legged pants that would be Iceberg Piazza smooth sailing heading to Sempione Capri.

Luisa Beccaria: It can be said Sportmax that every woman, no matter how strong, sophisticated or independent, allows the occasional pastel-colored romantic daydream to infiltrate her otherwise- grounded world. For those moments, Luisa Beccaria’s tender spring collection offered the perfect accompanying wardrobe, with nostalgic sweetheart tulle gowns dusted in glitter, delicate lace skirts set over pale lilac cotton and white eyelet shirts with ivory ribbon details. All decidedly feminine, but not necessarily girly. Alessandro Beccaria’s Wedgwood floral- Dell’Acqua print shirtdresses and tiered ribbon-and-tulle circle skirts are just right for her daydreaming fans as they linger over a leisurely Sunday afternoon tea. milan

Piazza Sempione: PHOTOS MAESTRI GIANNONI AND DAVIDE GIOVANNI BY Things are softening up at Piazza Sempione. Trussardi: What always stands out at Trussardi Iceberg: Paolo Gerani, Iceberg’s creative director, Tiny jackets are paired is the leatherwear and handbags. For spring, let loose with heaps of cotton eyelet and tissue-thin with crinkled cotton shirts Beatrice Trussardi squeezed her models into silks in his spring collection. But this was no ingenue and high-waist pants and a classic trenchcoat is belted superslim, leather-trimmed cotton outing. Rather, think prairie girls vacationing at the high over a fluid dress. Pretty details add dimension coatdresses, and open-backed jackets worn beach and hitting the disco clubs. Gerani paired to the simple shapes, from basic pleating and ruching, with fluid skirts. Among the best accessories HotPants, clamdiggers and roomy shorts with to the use of grosgrain to accent a shift dress. While were retro chain-strapped bags, rigid-frame bikini bras, see-through tops and ruffled prairie there was a selection of Rothko-inspired florals and crocodile concoctions and canvas styles bordered with blouses, and completed the look with colored croc rich colors, the strongest group were the navy pieces, colored leather and splattered with the T logo. The platforms. some in pretty polkadots, others, seemingly simple but collection lost its focus, however, by drifting into a That playful edge lost its simmer, however, with a with a decorative touch of white in the pleating that is Prada moment with pleated print skirts and ombréd group of ruffled handkerchief dresses in firework sure to keep the Piazza fans shopping this spring. silk dresses. brights, which, though pretty, were certainly not new. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 11 WWD.COM Dresses Impress in Milan

Continued from page one Giorgio Armani Burberry liked Prada very much in the Kal Ruttenstein, senior vice Prorsum showroom. There’s a lot of president for fashion direction at handiwork in every garment. There Bloomingdale’s, was also bullish are so many appliqués, photo prints about the Italian collections. and embroidery.” “It’s fresh, young, less tailored, ● Cedric Charbit, general more romantic and more interesting merchandise manager for women’s than it’s been in a long time,” he fashion at Printemps: “We’re said. “The dress was a big Milan returning to eclecticism the more we statement, along with the color go. People pick up items they like white and white mixed with cream.” from different brands. A lot of But a compressed schedule, with brands are doing what they’re known six days of shows crammed into five, for: Armani is doing Armani, made life difficult for buyers and Dsquared is doing Dsquared, contributed to the general feeling focusing on the core business. that the Milan week demanded a lot Overall, we were quite happy with of effort for little fashion news. what we saw, the Sixties Brigitte “What I didn’t like was the Bardot looks and the influence of schedule and the fact that some Seventies-era Yves Saint Laurent.” things were double booked,” said Charbit praised a range of Joan Kaner, senior vice president and collections, among them Prada, fashion director at Neiman Marcus. Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana, “We spent more time in traffic going Marni and Burberry Prorsum. [from] location to location than seeing ● Jeffrey Kalinsky, president and clothes. It’s such a poor use of our chief executive officer of Jeffrey time. It wasn’t a revolutionary season, New York, and director of but spring never is.” merchandising at Nordstrom: Anna Garner, fashion director of “Marni is an eternal favorite, and Selfridges, said, “It was a bit flat we can never buy enough of it. It’s overall. The main focus for the week just always wonderful — between was understated simplicity — soft, the prints and great skirts, it’s just a light and fresh but very understated, big, big business. I liked the new except for Dolce & Gabbana.” direction at Gucci. I think women Other collections that buyers said are going to wear it. I think it is stood out included Prada, Fendi, going to sell well. I loved Prada and Etro, Versace, Marni, Roberto Burberry Prorsum. I thought Fendi Cavalli and Burberry Prorsum. Prada was a surprise. I can’t wait to get to Here’s what they said about a the showroom. Miuccia Prada is divisive week: just a genius. She keeps it fresh ● Sue Patneaude, executive vice season after season. She takes a president of designer apparel at beautiful, simple dress and she Nordstrom: “We were surprised by makes it magical somehow. I loved how different Milan was from New Versace. It thought it was powerful. York. It was much more feminine, Overall, I loved the neutral palette, with lots of colors, ruffles and but it’s my job to infuse something prints. The dress is definitely the interesting so that things aren’t too item of the season, the new restrained. Where I find color, I’m uniform. We’d also like to see more going to buy color.” daytime interpretations of ● Robert Burke of Bergdorf everything. There was a lot of Goodman: Burke saw no shortage of chiffon and lace. We loved Missoni, standout collections, among them big Versace and Dolce & Gabbana.” names such as Prada and Dolce & ● Sarah Rutson, fashion director Gabbana and smaller labels such as at Lane Crawford: “Overall, it is all 6267 and Sinha-Stanic. “We thought about dresses, dresses, dresses. In Fendi was an outstanding collection fact, the only thing we saw outside of both in ready-to-wear and the dress was shorts. The back is accessories. We thought Gucci back — backless dresses and hidden showed a lot of courage to show a back slits again were prevalent at new statement. Etro showed a huge most shows. I loved the innovation evolution and wonderful of fabrics at Prada — so modern and sophistication. Also Giorgio Armani urban yet feminine — the loose, looked very couture and his away-from-the-body silhouettes experience with the Privé [couture without being too voluminous and collection] has carried over into the the perfect use of decoration.” ready-to-wear line.” Rutson also lauded the refined ● Sheikh Majed Al-Sabah, owner fabrics used for dresses and skirts at of Villa Moda: “My favorites were Burberry Prorsum, and the strong Marni, Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Prada African colors at Marni, which stood and Dolce & Gabbana. The out amongst all the black and white. accessories at Fendi, with the new B. She also noted strong shoe trends: a Fendi bag, are amazing. The shoes in plethora of wedge shoes, patent Miu Miu are the best in town. Trends leather and block heels. were the summer coats — the attention to the waistline, with lots of Empire waists — ● Michael Fink, senior fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue: “This was a safe week. and a lot of prints. Coats are the items of the season. The softer side of Prada is For fall, Milan led the way in new silhouettes and the new use of black, but for spring strong, the new Gucci girl is young and fresh. Dolce & Gabbana’s red numbers are it’s about safe clothes and familiar shapes. It’s not as creative as fall. This may reflect great and [I’m pleased] there’s a return of red, which has been absent for a while. It the uncertainty about what should happen next in design. I loved the confidence at was a strong season, and with our climate, the weight of the fabrics is excellent.” Versace; it was modern and sexy but not vulgar. There was energy and power, clothes ● Scott Tepper, fashion director and divisional merchandise manager of apparel, for a modern woman. Prada is leading the way in a new direction with silhouettes accessories and lingerie at Henri Bendel: “We found the Milan season to be a bit falling away from the body. What seems simple [hides] complexity, such as the pleats, quixotic towards the beginning; however, when we left the showrooms, we were very for example. Also, the back is completely different from the front. Marni made me feel pleased with how the buys came together. The main trends, such as white eyelet, good, with its colors, prints and mixing, which are right for the moment. [At Burberry], creamy linens, short jackets with portrait collars, chiffon ruffles, embroideries and Christopher Bailey had a beautiful and sophisticated color palette and the perfect the omnipresent dresses, are all charming and valid for our customer, however with solutions for a woman. Perfect knits and skirts with which a woman is dressed and out the overall feeling of the season so incredibly soft, we needed to mix in some of the the door, polished but easy. But I didn’t learn anything new, other than Prada.” more substantial pieces to create a compelling story on the floor. ● Joan Kaner of Neiman Marcus: “The dress is a key item. The Empire waist is not “We loved the new extra-wide zigzag coat at Missoni for this reason, as well as their a new silhouette, but it continues strongly. The chemises look good, as do blouses yellow chiffon printed evening dress. Versace was a collection we thought was and shirts with puff sleeves. As for color, obviously white is sort of leading the way. I outstanding — Daniela’s breakthrough moment, with her fluid jerseys and ombré was very pleased with Gucci. [Frida Giannini] is off to an auspicious start. It was chiffons that combined clean strength with the softness of the season. Francisco Rosas pretty and romantic. I loved Pucci. It was beautiful, very controlled and right on. I Continued on page 12 12 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 Dresses Save Safe Milan Continued from page 11 strong and sophisticated, a quiet femininity and not so over- has a clear and modern point of view that combines the Pucci Fendi the-top and showy. That, for us, is fantastic. The key piece is luxury of couture details with wearablity. We think he the dress. We really did like Burberry Prorsum and Dolce & has a very bright future. Antonio Marras was also quite Gabbana, although it changed a bit its direction with a beautiful in a unique way; we loved his soft, short ki- slightly romantic slant. Fendi became really strong, really mono jackets as well as his black and white evening sophisticated. Etro was particularly feminine. It was strong dresses. Marni and Dolce and Gabbana delivered smash- and sophisticated and didn’t rely so much on its ethnic past. ing and commercial collections that will more than satis- Roberto Cavalli didn’t necessarily innovate this season, but fy their legions of followers. The dazzling and exuberant he played to the strength of what the customer wants from array of Miu Miu platform shoes made us end the week him. Overall, I saw a more simple femininity, which in the with a smile. seasons to come, will gather speed in the marketplace.” ● Janet Brown, who owns a namesake store: “The cal- ● Akito Naohara, general manager for luxury brands, jew- endar is grueling. It’s easy to be negative, but the gra- elry and watches at Takashimaya Co.: “My first impression ciousness of Milan for me is always strong. Not only did generally speaking is that it’s very normal, calm and easy to it have great collections such as Marni, Jil Sander, sell. It’s very calm, clean and pure, but a bit sexy and ele- Missoni and Bottega Veneta, but there are brilliant young gant. The color palette is white and beige. There are a lot of people working so hard.” These included Ezicho, “a lace and pleats. Dresses are major items. Roberto Cavalli Japanese boy that does wonderful jackets,” Cor De was my favorite. He’s a typical Italian designer. It’s very Adamich and Francisco Rosas “with wonderful evening sexy and it becomes elegant. We would like to start to do dresses, feminine and beautiful, such great taste.” business with him. Prada was very clean. It’s not decorative ● Julie Gilhart, vice president and fashion director at but the detailed part is very delicate. I was impressed by Barneys New York: “I really thought once again that Marni and Ermanno Scervino. Marni is easy to coordinate Prada was uberdirectional. At Marni, the bags, shoes and with the jackets, skirts and knitwear.” ready-to-wear were strong. The Fendi bags were incredi- ● Kal Ruttenstein of Bloomingdale’s: “The Prada collec- ble and the show had a lot of energy. The B-bag has so tion was the best in a long time, and nobody else looked like many incarnations. It’s just cute in every single way. her. There were great jackets and great colors at Giorgio Dolce & Gabbana lived up to 20 years of fashion. It was Armani. And Dolce & Gabbana for their 20th birthday was a one of their best collections. They took the trend of lace fun presentation.” and eyelet and they deejayed it really nicely. I think the ● Anna Garner, fashion director, Selfridges: Given a gen- direction of Milan was deceivingly powerful. It doesn’t hit eral lack of excitement in clothing, Garner said she would PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTO BY PHOTO BY MAURICIO MIRANDA MAURICIO PHOTO BY you on the head. It fits the mood of what women want. probably increase the accessories buy. While citing a “com- They want to wear the clothes rather than have the clothes wear them. Last season, all plete move away from jewelry,” she said belts, patent and metallic leathers and you wanted to wear was a skirt, and this season, all you want to wear is the dress. There wedge and platform shoes were strong foils for white and nude-toned clothing. Other is a lot of white, tan and beige and makeup colors. Accessories like a bigger handbag or key items include trenchcoats, shorts and blouses with puffed sleeves. She praised a crystal or fuchsia shoe like we saw at Prada. That becomes very important.” Prada and Miu Miu for a sophisticated new direction; Fendi for a “great, focused ● Suzanne Tide-Frater, creative director at Harrods: “People always expect new- show”; Etro and Burberry for sophisticated styles, and Dolce & Gabbana for “a very ness. I didn’t expect that since there was a lot of change last season. For spring it’s strong show and a strong collection.” Vogue, Designers Fete Young Talent Renzo Rosso, Eva Herzigova Dan and Dean Caten of Dsquared with Lucy Liu. and Stefano Gabbana.

Heather Graham Donatella Versace Margherita Missoni and and Alber Elbaz. Emanuele Della Valle.

From left: Franca Sozzani, Naomi Campbell, Milan Mayor Gabriele Albertini, Anna Wintour, Linda Evangelista, Albino D'Amato, Carlo Miuccia Prada, Olivier Theyskens Alberto Pregnolato, Roberto Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano. and Alberta Ferretti.

MILAN — Cynics might claim that fashion isn’t doing enough to It’s easy to understand why a young designer could feel doesn’t grow up overnight.” find and support new talent, but nearly every marquee designer intimidated in a setting like this. A gaggle of supermodels and Prada quipped that there’s just one problem with hiring who shows in this city turned out for Vogue and Italian Vogue’s celebrities such as Linda Evangelista, Eva Herzigova, Alek Wek, aspiring designers: “Once they’ve learned, they go away.” Fashion Fund dinner to support that very cause. Carré Otis, Lucy Liu and Heather Graham rounded out an already Prada said her company has done a lot for young people and Miuccia Prada, Donatella Versace, Domenico Dolce and Stefano impressive designer turnout. Seating was tight — word has it now that tradition is extending to her own family members. Gabbana, Burberry’s Christopher Bailey, Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz, that a handful of Victoria Beckham’s bodyguards snagged seats “My children came for the first time,” she said of her two Rochas’ Olivier Theyskens and Roberto Cavalli were a few of the reserved for other guests. teenage sons, Giulio and Lorenzo. “I think maybe now they’re designers to stop by the event, held in a 17th-century brick “It’s fabulous,” said a smiling Versace as she panned the interested because their friends want to come, or maybe they structure that once housed a cemetery. Between courses of room. “It’s great to see everyone all together.” wanted to look at the girls.” pesto pasta and sea bass, Vogue editor Anna Wintour, Italian Elbaz, who came directly from the airport to attend the Many an air kiss was exchanged between designers as the Vogue’s Franca Sozzani, Naomi Campbell and Milan Mayor event, was delighted to see Julie Gilhart, vice president and Milan crowd decompressed from a hectic week of shows and Gabriele Albertini presented the three finalists in a design fashion director of Barneys New York. “We are friends and we the Paris crew prepares for its own whirlwind. competition. are old. We are old friends,” he joked as he embraced her. Yves Saint Laurent designer Stefano Pilati and Theyskens “If Milan is to remain the fashion capital it is today, this Meanwhile, designers were emphatic on the importance of represented opposite ends of the spectrum of preshow panic. country needs youth and vitality,” Wintour said just before nurturing new design talent. “I can’t do anything now anyway. I am all ready, except for announcing the winner, a design duo of 33-year-olds, Tommaso “All of us, not just Milan, but also in the U.K., need to the fittings. And the girls are here [in Milan],” said Theyskens, Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. Their label, 6267, and the support and nurture new talent,” said Burberry’s Bailey, who who’s not planning any all-nighters. “I like to sleep a little. You contest’s other two finalists, Albino D’Amato and footwear does his own part by offering yearlong internships to fashion have to go out and take a bow. You don’t want to look terrible.” designer Carlo Alberto Pregnolato, together made their runway students in the U.K. “We need to listen and be educated about Pilati was a tad less tranquil: “I could shoot myself.” debuts in Milan at the “Who Is On Next?” show last Wednesday. new points of view, because every generation has a different As for Alberta Ferretti, she’s learned to cope with postshow D’Amato got first runner up while Pregnolato came in third. point of view.” fatigue. “All of the people you’ve always admired are here,” said Dolce agreed: “We need to organize more events like this, “That’s fashion,” she said. “It’s a life. I love it. I’m lucky.” Rimondi, a longtime consultant at Max Mara. “It’s a bit scary and the Italian press needs to write about new designers. You Gucci designer Frida Giannini was just happy that the weekend because we’re really starting now.” need to have faith and patience because a young designer had come. “Tomorrow’s Saturday and I’m sleeping,” she said. PHOTOS BY DAVE YODER AND STEPHANE FEUGERE YODER DAVE PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 13 WWD.COM Fashion Scoops

Jim GoldsteinGold and Jimand Goldstein Jim Gold royalty for the NBA, when he’s not chez Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana or John Galliano. Although his leather jeans, ponyskin coats and printed shirts look custom-made for him, they’re all off the rack, or the runway. “I’m fortunate enough to be the same size as the models,” Goldstein said backstage at Cavalli, where he was among the first to rush and congratulate the designer. “I can buy the samples and prototypes of things that are never produced.” Goldstein said he shops mostly in Milan and Paris, and occasionally back in Los Angeles at Maxfield. As for his architectural interest, he said he often lends his famous Sixties house by architect John Lautner, which juts out from a cliff in Beverly Hills, for — what else? — fashion shoots.

THIS JUST INN: Dubai is getting more fashionable by the day. Not only will Giorgio Armani open a hotel there with EMAAR Hotels & Resorts, but a group of investors from Dubai has asked Roberto Cavalli to draw up a hotel project, too, according to Milan sources. This will not be Cavalli’s first foray into interior design. As reported, the designer also is creating a concept for the interiors of the new Playboy club at the Palms Casino Resort, scheduled to open in Las Vegas early next year.

MOONSTRUCK: It’s smooth sailing for Prada. In its first challenge in Italy in preparation for the America’s Cup, Patrizio Bertelli’s Luna Rossa won two races on the waters off Trapani, Sicily. Despite slack winds, Prada’s yacht last week outperformed the other competitors. Lapo Elkann, in charge of Fiat’s brand promotion, was on board. Perhaps a good luck charm? The America’s Cup will be held in Valencia, Spain, in 2007 with Switzerland defending.

SHOE GAZING: Guy Laroche has its eye on the financially troubled Charles Jourdan shoe and accessories business. Jean-Francois Ferrandiz, Laroche’s chief executive, said he has started to look at the Jourdan dossier and could make an offer within the month. “There would be synergies,” he Victoria Beckham Eva Amurri said. To be sure, deals seem to be multiplying in Europe. On Friday, Le Coq Sportif changed hands. Swiss investment fund Airesis said it had purchased 70 percent of the activewear brand, which has an estimated 150 million euros, or $180 million, in sales.

HOLD THE PRESSES: The Italian media blankets its pages and newscasts with coverage of Milan Fashion Week, down to the smallest designers. So journalists’ decision to strike over salary issues last Friday, coinciding with the tail end of the Milan week, suggests meager coverage for shows including Gianfranco Ferré, Roberto Cavalli, Etro and Miu Miu. Still, many Italian journalists were spotted at shows. Some took notes and intended to write a summary for today’s papers while hardliners attended merely for personal interest, to pay respect to designers — or to prepare for future assignments. “As a professional, it’s important for us to be at the shows, because we will work on what we see this week for the next six months,” said Laura Asnaghi, a fashion reporter at the daily La Repubblica. Better late than never.

TICK TOCK: Everyone knows Karl Lagerfeld just can’t sit still. The latest evidence? A style supplement dedicated to the designer to be published by Paris daily newspaper Liberation on Saturday. Not only is Lagerfeld on the cover — photographing himself — but he lensed several stories inside, as well, including a portfolio of his pictures of New York. Meanwhile, Lagerfeld answers questions about his childhood in Germany, while several articles examine the mystery of what keeps Karl ticking. BLUE CLUES: There were two keen students of Italy at Roberto Cavalli on Friday: Eva Amurri and Victoria Beckham. “I’m actually studying in Bologna for one semester,” said Amurri, the daughter of Susan Sarandon, a budding actress and an Italian studies major at Brown. But she hopes to be back Silvio Berlusconi and on the screen soon and hinted a film project is in the works for summer 2006. Just down the row, his daughter, Barbara. Beckham said she’s about to make the leap from front-row to catwalk with her collection done in partnership with Rock & Republic. She’s planning a fashion show in Los Angeles later this month to show what is so far mostly a jeans line. But her fashion ambitions stretch much further. “At some point, I would love to do sunglasses, and more tailored clothing,” she said. “I’m working my way up and I’m really enjoying it.”

BIRTHDAY BOY: “This is a party — no budget,” Domenico Dolce declared before he and his partner, Stefano Gabbana, hosted a lavish bash last Thursday to celebrate 20 years of Dolce & Gabbana. He wasn’t joking. Held in a cavernous warehouse on the fringe of Milan, Dolce and Gabbana created the world according to them, if just for one night. They started with the entrance, covering the adjacent building in mirrors and dusting diamond glitter on the road. Guests included Italy’s Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi — celebrating his birthday, no less — Kelis and David Lauren, who walked a red carpet to a sprawling space done up as a sleek Art Deco lounge. Inside, some 2,000 guests lounged on gold leather circular divans and sipped on hundreds of magnums of Dom Perignon, Grey Goose vodka and a special anniversary cocktail. Everything about the night was big, from the gilded baroque mirrors in the entrance to the huge D and G letters lit with hundreds of lightbulbs that framed the back of a gold stage. Tucked in a corner and surrounded by a gaggle of bodyguards, Berlusconi chatted with Italian Vogue’s Carla Sozzani before being whisked off by one of the designers. “I’m with Berlusconi,” Gabbana said excitedly. Next up, disco diva Donna Summer STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY performed seven songs, leaving guests screaming for more. Dressed in a white beaded gown and wrapped in a white feather boa, Summer performed her greatest hits, including “Love to Love You Baby,” before bringing Dolce and Gabbana on stage to extend birthday wishes and thanks before partying in earnest.

GOLD RUSH: They’ve been photographed together in Milan, and their names are similar, but all Double Dutch likeness ends there. Jim Gold, of course, is president and chief executive officer of Bergdorf Amsterdam-based Viktor & Rolf, slated to show Goodman, partial to sober suits and quiet ties. Jim Goldstein, on the other hand, wears studded their spring-summer collection in Paris tonight, snakeskin head-to-toe, a Crocodile Dundee hat and he doesn’t work in fashion at all. will soon be moonlighting in Italy, as well. WWD But given his ubiquity at runway shows — yes, that was him in the second row behind the has learned that Allegri, the pioneering outerwear Bergdorf crew at Roberto Cavalli last Friday — Goldstein is often mistaken for a retailer. Rather, he and rainwear firm, has tapped the Dutch design is a big, big shopper. wizards to collaborate on future collections. In the Viktor Horsting and He’s coy about his profession — “I make investments,” he demurred — and his business card past, Allegri has tapped such greats as Giorgio Rolf Snoeren. reads “fashion, architecture, basketball,” because he is a devoted fan of all three. He is front-row Armani, Romeo Gigli and Martin Margiela. 14 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 WWD.COM Tommy Looks to Boost Asian Presence

By Lisa Movius On the runway Japan, South Korea and Hong Kong, inin Shanghai.Shanghai. Hilfiger considers Asia to be joining SHANGHAI — Tommy Hilfiger is on an Europe in offering a “high-growth strategy” Asian push. for the company, which is having a more The designer visited Shanghai last difficult time in the U.S. month for a fashion show and party at “We expected to maintain only moder- Shanghai Film Studios, followed by similar ate growth — but as a result of the eco- events in Hong Kong, Tokyo and Seoul. The nomic boom, Asian people have embraced visit marked Hilfiger’s first time in Shang- our brand in, I think, a major way. They hai, which he described as “cool. It’s such a have a youthful attitude, with a lot of jean- great mix of old and new.” swear. The red, white and blue attitude And, equally important, a huge poten- seems to resonate really well globally. tial market. Hilfiger said of his China strat- “India and China are our exciting growth egy: “I think a balance is important. And, areas, outside of Europe,” he continued. the fact is, having a strong basics business Nonetheless, emerging markets such as is all about having the foundation, and that China and India are never easy territory is as important as having the fashion.” for international brands to negotiate. The upper-middle price range and ca- Piracy and counterfeiting remain sualwear focus of the brand taps a larger rampant, despite corporate and Chinese demographic than most interna- official attempts to curtail it. tional labels here. “I think we are very Hilfiger, whose group in- fortunate to have the positioning we have TToommymmy cludes an organization to because, as a result of all the brands com- Hilfiger prevent and prosecute ing in, we somehow stand out,” the design- stores “are all extremely successful, with a we’re servicing piracy, does not see it as er said. “When the luxury brands come in, lot of momentum, a lot of growth. For some the working class the main challenge, howev- they’re quite expensive, they’re reaching reason, the Chinese people have become with executive po- er. “We’re finding that a very small amount of people. So, we’re very brand conscious, and they love our sitions, who are young people want the real really in a great position to reach a very brand, it matches their lifestyle. And the wearing more casu- thing, and are not necessari- broad range and a larger segment of the fact that there’s a large middle- and upper- al clothing to work, ly as enamored with counter- population.” class growth in the population serves us and on weekends,” he feits as in other countries or at The Tommy Hilfiger group has been ex- well because these people are all excited said. “They’re very smart, other times. They want the status panding ambitiously in mainland China, to buy and wear status brands. They have savvy customers. They’re of the real thing.” opening 40 stores in 22 cities since 2002, become very attached to our logo.” very well aware of the world, at- Rather, his main complaint lies with along with 12 in Hong Kong since 1999. The He added that he does not design sepa- tracted to the style nuances. The women China’s trade policies. “When we manu- stores are run in cooperation with Hong rate collections for Asia or China, as he like to be sexy, the men like to be dressed facture merchandise in China, we have to Kong’s Dickson Group, which also manages does for Europe. “It’s interesting; they’re in a hip sort of way.” He added that acces- ship it out of the country, then ship it back the group’s stores in its other Asian loca- attracted to the same styles we’re selling sories account for about a third of sales, in and pay more duty.” tions in Taiwan, Singapore and Malaysia. in the States and in Europe — it’s not that similar to most markets outside the U.S. He took issue not with the fees, but Hilfiger has no plans to take direct it’s that different.” Like many analysts and his competitors, rather with the fact that, “timing wise, it control of his China stores. “Dickson is a Aside from dressing local celebrities, Hilfiger forecast an optimistic future for doesn’t serve as well as I would like, be- great partner, they understand the mar- Hilfiger said his China advertising sticks international fashion brands, given China’s cause if we could ship from factory to ket very well and have been our partner to “a global approach,” but “with slight fast-expanding middle and upper classes. store, we would have sort of a leg up on for a number of years,” he said. nuances — maybe we would advertise “China is on a high, high growth path, and the trends.” Rather, the focus is on increasing the more jeans than some areas — but very we don’t see an end to it. In some countries Hilfiger uses about 35 factories in number of stores in China, with 11 Tommy slight nuances. We’re in all the same mag- you can only go so far, and there’s an end. China, and has been manufacturing here Hilfiger and two Tommy Jeans units slated azines as we are in the States: the Cosmos, But, looking down the road, we don’t see for almost the entire 20 years of his to open within the next year, according to the Bazaars, the Vogues, GQ, Esquire, any slowdown, or any drop-off, because we brand’s existence, originally via his former the group’s Hong Kong communications FHM, et cetera.” really haven’t even scratched the surface. partner, Silas Chou, of South Ocean in director, Stella Wong. They plan to in- The customer the firm seeks to reach With 40 stores and high growth, [and] the Hong Kong. “The quality [of manufactur- crease their Beijing stores to 10 from the he described as “upper-middle-class men, product lines coming in all the time, we see ing] in China continues to improve, which current two before the 2008 Olympics, and women and children. The men-women tremendous potential in this market.” is very impressive,” said Hilfiger. “They to double their Shanghai stores to 16 in split is 50-50 — we think that’s a great Because of China’s promise, the grow- really understand the need for great quali- time for the 2010 World Expo. place to be.” ing importance of India and solid perform- ty. And they’ve ramped up the production Hilfiger explained that the current Specifically, “what we’re finding is ance in more established markets such as in a very strong way.” Hilfiger Corp. to Restate China Quotas Hurt Luen Thai Annual Financial Results By Vicki Rothrock China business, he said. Regarding a U.S.-China apparel and textile NEW YORK — Tommy Hilfiger ended in March, the company HONG KONG — The post-quota era hasn’t been trade pact: “We all wish an agreement will be en- Corp. Friday posted preliminary said preliminary net income is kind to Luen Thai Holdings, a global sourcing tered,” he said. net income results for the fiscal $86 million, or 93 cents a dilut- firm based here, which reported a 1.1 percent To deal with the possibility of safeguard quotas year ended March 31, 2005, and ed share. It added that it ex- drop in sales to $267.5 million for the first half this year, Luen Thai began preparing outward said prior-year financial state- pects to reduce fiscal year 2004 compared with the same period last year. processing arrangements last year in Hong Kong ments will be adjusted due to an net income to $131 million from The company, which has Polo Ralph Lauren, Liz and Macau, which are special administrative dis- accounting restatement. $132 million, and increase the Claiborne Inc., Limited Brands, Fast Retailing and tricts of China but have their exports treated au- The company said it will re- net loss for fiscal year 2003 to Dillard’s among its clients, also posted a 12 percent tonomously. The two facilities accounted for 2.9 state financial results for the fis- $518 million from $513 million. drop in gross profit to $54.7 million and an almost 13 percent of Luen Thai’s first-half shipments. cal years ended March 31, 2001, “We are pleased to announce percent decline in operating profit to $15.9 million. The Hong Kong OPA is being renovated for ex- 2002, 2003 and 2004, as well as our preliminary net income re- Companies such as Luen Thai that source in pansion. The target is 400,000 units a month, for the first quarter of the fiscal sults for fiscal year 2005, along China have been caught in safeguard quota actions Henry Tan said. The facility now turns out about year ended March 31, 2005. with preliminary restated finan- taken by the U.S. and European Union that limited 75,000 units a month. The firm said the informa- cial results for prior years. This Chinese imports into those major trading partners, For 2006, he said he believes business will go tion is preliminary until it files is a further important step in put- even though World Trade Organization countries back to normal, and Luen Thai will have some its financial statements with the ting these matters behind us and eliminated quotas on Jan. 1. China’s 2001 entry margin recoveries. Securities and Exchange Com- focusing our full attention on the agreement into the WTO allowed for renewed quo- Meanwhile, the firm is trying to diversify into mission. It also will record net strategic and operating initia- tas. The EU subsequently struck a deal with China non-U.S. markets, such as Japan and the EU, Sunny tax provisions in connection tives that we have undertaken to that loosened restrictions, but caught some goods Tan said. The company’s first-half revenue from op- with its filing of amended tax grow our businesses,” said David in limbo. erations in Europe increased almost 50 percent to returns for fiscal years 2001 Dyer, president and chief oper- “We have been suffering a bit primarily be- $10.2 million, while in Japan revenue jumped 10 through 2004, and will discuss ating officer, in a statement. cause of the trade dispute,” said Sunny Tan, Luen percent to $2.5 million. The two combined make up the impact of the provisions on Bankers for Tommy Hilfiger Thai’s chief financial officer. about 5 percent of Luen Thai’s total turnover. the results for fiscal years 2003, Corp. are in the midst of trying The company’s chief operating officer, Henry The company recently signed the U.K.’s Marks 2004 and 2005 in the annual re- to sell the company, and, as re- Tan, said the biggest problem at the moment is & Spencer and Germany’s Metro as new customers. port, or Form 10-K, for fiscal ported first in WWD, Wal-Mart uncertainty. Executives expect the situation to be It’s also looking to expand its China business. year 2005, which it “expects to Stores Inc. is contemplating a “quite a bit smoother” in the next year because of Luen Thai has diversified its product cate- file in the near future.” bid for the firm. a trade pact between China and the EU. Luen gories to include pants, and it is making 150,000 For fiscal year 2005 that — Vicki M. Young Thai didn’t have any of its goods embargoed at pairs a month at its Dongguan Supply Chain City EU customs, but had to forgo some second-half facility. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 15 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Sara Lee Deals Euro Brands NEW YORK — Sara Lee Corp. has entered Designers Showcase Luxe Lingerie into an exclusive negotiation period with By Karyn Monget Sun European Partners for the sale of its branded European intimate apparel busi- NEW YORK — Several European lingerie designers will be break- nesses, the company said on Friday. ing out of the boudoir this week with a customized luxury lingerie SEP is an affiliate of Sun Capital presentation in Paris called Showroom Lingerie Dessous. Partners, a private investment and lever- The three-day event begins Friday featuring five luxury brands: aged buyout firm with offices in Boca Raton, Gentry de Paris, Damaris, Emporiana, Guia la Brun and State of Fla.; Los Angeles; New York, and London. Undress. They will exhibit their spring collections at Galeries Sara Lee Coutaulds, the U.K.-based division Greenfields located on the trendy Rue de Thorigny. The two-story that manufactures private label apparel for venue, which also serves as a wholesaler and retailer of Irish crys- retailers, is not part of the potential sale. Sara tal, will be dedicated exclusively to lingerie for the forum. Lee said it will continue to evaluate options for “We are the first and only [Paris] showroom dedicated exclusive- the business, which generated nearly $560 mil- ly to lingerie,” said Gentry Lane, director and designer of Gentry de lion in sales for the fiscal year ended July 2. Paris daywear, sleepwear, corsetry and bras. “We’ll be right around Sara Lee’s European intimates business the corner from the gallery Thadeus Ropac and next to all of the has operations in France, Germany, Italy, prêt-à-porter showrooms. It’s an ideal location.” Spain, the U.K. and throughout eastern Lingerie from each of the brands will be featured in “very Europe. The businesses generated sales of Playtex is among the boudoir-looking themes with lots of silk and feathers” in six win- A Showroom Lingerie brochure. $1.2 billion in the fiscal year ended July 2. brands in the European dows, she said, noting the event will include informal modeling, “The intended sale of the branded apparel portfolio. champagne and canapés. business in Europe — which includes great brands such as Dim, Lane said she and her “co-conspirators” came up with the idea Playtex, Wonderbra, Abanderado, Nur Die and Unno — is an important of a private lingerie forum while exhibiting at the Lyon, Mode City step toward simplifying our portfolio and focusing on growing our core trade show in September. food, beverage and household and body care businesses,” said Brenda “We were all showing in our small stands at the Lyon show, which Barnes, Sara Lee’s president and chief executive officer, in a statement. had a lower turnout this year, and we were discussing how the ma- “We look forward to constructive discussions with Sara Lee and jority of our buyers were split over the fact that lingerie isn’t just lin- the works councils to complete the acquisition of its European inti- gerie anymore,” said Lane. “The Lyon and Paris [lingerie] salons are mate apparel business,” said Philip A. Dougall, managing director of great for exposure, but not the best way to show the product. It made SEP, in a statement. sense to work together to create buzz for our niche brands because Sara Lee during the quarter and year ended July 2, recognized an lingerie showrooms are inherently attractive for buyers and market impairment loss of $305 million in the European apparel business, editors. Now they can see the five brands in one stop.” with $182 million related to goodwill and $123 million related to Although Lane said she intends to continue showing at large trade indefinite lived trademarks. The company said on Friday that, due to shows, she also plans to expand the Showroom Lingerie Dessous con- the differences between potential transaction terms approved by the cept to New York and London during fashion weeks next year. board and other nonbinding bids previously received for the busi- Lane added the group of young designers will give a new twist to ness, Sara Lee conducted another impairment review and conclud- marketing and advertising Showroom Lingerie Dessous this week: ed that an additional write-down of the business was required. The a sidewalk stencil campaign. impairment charge will be recognized in the first quarter of fiscal “We’ll be all over the sidewalks of Paris, in front of Colette and the Vintage-inspired bra-and-panty year 2006, and is expected to be in the range of $165 million. Carousel du Louvre,” Lane said. “That should get us some attention.” set by Gentry de Paris. — Vicki M. Young Bergdorf’s Hosts Starr-Studded Book Launch NEW YORK — Makeup artist Paul Starr has beautified a pearing in advertising for that brand and plans to con- Gillette shareholders, and clearance from the EU in bevy of famous faces over the years — and Thursday tinue to do so, although she’s not looking for a perfume July. The merged company plans to hold its first ana- night at Bergdorf Goodman, several of them showed up deal, either. “I doubt it,” she said in response to the lyst meeting today at the New York Stock Exchange. to celebrate the publication of his new book, “Paul Starr question. “I’m busy being a mom and a wife, and with — Molly Prior on Beauty: Conversations With 30 Wicked Wisdom, my band.” The group Celebrated Women” (Melcher Media). will release a CD in January, which Bond No. 9 Fetes New Shop The event was hosted by John BEAUTY BEAT Pinkett Smith calls “progressive, ag- Demsey, global president of the MAC gressive rock.” She added, “I just did NEW YORK — Bond No. 9 officially opened its fourth Cosmetics and Estée Lauder brands. Starr is the latter Ozzfest, which should tell you something.” New York store on Bleecker Street Thursday night. brand’s national makeup artist. Meanwhile, MAC Cosmetics was honored last week The new West Village outpost, whose soft opening was At least one star made it clear that she was leaving by the Global Business Coalition on HIV/AIDS for the Sept. 15, has the cozy feel of a 19th-century town house, the prettifying to Starr. “Oh dear God, no,” Maria Bello work of its MAC AIDS Fund. with quirky touches such as a striking magenta chande- said with a startled laugh when asked if she was seek- The GBC, which held a gala ceremony headlined by lier and the requisite free-form Bond No. 9 mannequins. ing a beauty deal of her own. “My friends would be sur- Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice at the John F. Laurice Rahme, founder of Bond No. 9, said she prised if I showered more than twice a week!” Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, gave awards couldn’t have asked for a better location for the store. “To Clad in a patterned Stella McCartney coat, she made to a number of companies active in the global AIDS be next to Magnolia Bakery with all of the smells, you it clear that she is more interested in her latest film fight, including Bristol-Myers Squibb, Getty Images, cannot get a place with more smells in New York — in a projects than in peddling perfume. Her latest film, “A Virgin Unite, De Beers and Volkswagen of South Africa. good sense, at least — than Magnolia,” she said. Industry History of Violence,” which also stars Viggo Mortensen MAC Cosmetics, which won the Core Competency sources estimate the 500-square-foot boutique could do and Ed Harris, has just opened. Award, has raised more than $48 million for AIDS-re- upward of $700,000 in retail sales in its first year. Bello is also in town for preproduction work on her lated research since the fund was founded in 1994. “We’re a small company opening a store in the mid- — Julie Naughton Maria next film, tentatively titled dle of an economic crisis, so it’s very gutsy [to open a Bello “September,” which deals with the store] these days,” said Rahme. “But it’s also not so events of 9/11 through the eyes of FTC OKs P&G, Gillette Deal gutsy when you see what’s happening on this part of two Port Authority officers trapped the street.” She noted that Ralph Lauren is slated to in the rubble. That film, which is NEW YORK — The Federal Trade Commission has ap- open its third store on Bleecker in the near future. being directed by Oliver Stone, also proved Procter & Gamble’s proposed $57 billion acquisi- To commemorate the store’s opening, Bond No. 9 will will star Nicolas Cage and Maggie tion of The Gillette Co., allowing the two consumer prod- launch its 24th scent, aptly named Bleecker, next month. Gyllenhaal. ucts giants to operate as one company beginning today. The fragrance features notes of vanilla, cassis, caramel, Jada Pinkett Smith, who took For P&G, approval from the U.S. antitrust authorities cinnamon, thyme, musk and patchouli. The bottle, creat- her own step into the beauty field required several concessions, such as shedding brands in ed by fashion designer and The interior of by investing in indie brand Carol’s categories where the companies have overlapping busi- artist Rachel Katz, was inspired the new Bond Daughter earlier this year, is ap- nesses. Following the closing, P&G will spin off Gillette’s by the intersecting gold arch de- No. 9 store on Rembrandt oral care line and Right Guard deodorant. The sign of the original New York Bleecker Street. Paul Starr, Aerin Lauder company also will make two additional Gillette deodorant City subway token, and features and John Demsey. brands, Soft & Dri and Dry Idea, available for purchase by shades of magenta, lime green the Right Guard buyer. P&G expects to complete the re- and chartreuse. Bleecker is quired divestitures between now and December. priced at $25 for a 2-oz. spray In September, P&G announced plans to divest bottle and $185 for the 3.4-oz. SpinBrush to comply with the European Commission’s artist-designed bottle. Industry clearance provisions. The company has agreed to sell the sources expect the scent could SpinBrush franchise of battery-operated toothbrushes to do upward of $500,000 in its first Church & Dwight, the maker of Arm & Hammer toothpaste. year at retail. PHOTOS BY KEITH SMITH The FTC’s blessing follows approval from P&G and — Bryn Kenny ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY 16 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 WWD.COM Accessories Report Judith Leiber Thinking Outside the Box By Jennifer Hirshlag Business, according to a spokeswoman at Judith Leiber, is responding. Growth under- went a 14 percent gain in 2004 and is shaping up for increased momentum in 2005. NEW YORK — Judith Leiber increasingly wants to be a house that can “When I came on board, nothing was broken,” said Zambrelli. “Judith Leiber go from day to night. made a superbly crafted product using the finest materials, and luxury remained The New York-based luxury brand is renowned for its jeweled a constant for the brand. But for me, it was looking at how luxury is relevant in evening minaudières that have been carried by every first lady since A selection of Judith 2005. We might be dealing with the same type of customer, but she has a modern Mamie Eisenhower, sit in most museum costume collections and can Leiber’s spring life that is more varied. She may need a bag to stuff her sneakers in on the way take up to five days to complete, as some styles involve the hand ap- handbags. to the gym. So we are doing a whole lot to broaden the product.” plication of 12,000 Austrian crystals to their surfaces. Zambrelli, who started his career in fashion at Chanel and later worked But at the age of 42 — seven years after the company’s founder for John Varvatos, Cole Haan, Ralph Lauren and Coach Leatherware, ini- and namesake retired and five years after its takeover by private tially came to Judith Leiber in early 2004 to launch its shoe collection. He equity firm Pegasus Capital Advisors — Judith Leiber is firmly soon began applying the house’s signature touches, such as crystals and establishing a life beyond the minaudière. the use of exotic skins, to other accessories categories, and eventually The brand has brought on board Frank Zambrelli as cre- took on the role of creative director in June 2004. ative director, who is now introducing his updated aes- “We think there is potential to leverage the strong brand equity that thetic with his third full Judith Leiber collection for Judith Leiber has in place,” said Andrew Cooper, the company’s interim spring that includes the evening bags, as well as such ceo. “The core evening bag category has had a team in place and categories as sunglasses, codesigned under a li- they know how to interpret Judith Leiber in the cense with Legacie; shoes; fine gloves; wraps; marketplace, but Frank had a vision that went giftables; day bags, and even jewelry. across all categories.” It also is undergoing retail expansion, For spring, Zambrelli worked the lotus flower with plans to open more doors in still-to-be- symbol throughout the range, interpreting it in determined locations over the next five tonal colors on a minaudière, in paint on canvas years to complement its flagship here, which for a zip-up day tote with crocodile accents and reopened last year, and its boutiques in in layered appliqués on a day-to-evening shoulder Atlanta, Los Angeles and Las Vegas. bag. Crystals took on new shapes, growing larger to accent a closure on a bag or the This month marked the release of the frontispiece on a strappy heel. Zambrelli also rethought the iconic Judith Leiber bag third installment in Judith Leiber’s new by applying a blanket of crystals to a clutch with a soft case designed from silk satin. print ad campaign. The campaign, photo- “Crystals have been the lead-off for years, but now it’s a lead into dimensionality,” graphed by Jessica Craig Martin, features an said Zambrelli. “We are playing with the size of the stones, combining the stones with extended range of items on what the brand calls “celebutant friends of Leiber,” such as unexpected materials and interpreting that dimensionality the crystals created by find- rapper Nelly, actress Nia Long and socialite Ivana Trump. ing the same depth in layers of fabrics and colors and the use of hardware.” In addition, in the next couple of weeks, the brand will be embarking on its first e- Prices for select items can still climb as high as $95,000, but Zambrelli said the brand commerce venture with the relaunch of its Web site, judithleiber.com, which will in- also is creating looks at more affordable prices. Some bags now retail for around $1,200, clude a range of products for sale and photos from the red carpet of celebrities wear- while sunglasses can go for $200 and a key chain retails for $125. ing Judith Leiber accessories, from which browsers can directly purchase items. “The market has been doing things so aspirationally,” said Zambrelli. “It’s allowing us to do what Leiber does in more approachable price points. Having the store reopen in October 2004 has also been an inspiration for us be- cause it has allowed us to present a whole new world to the consumer.” It is still too early to judge whether the expansion will succeed at its core distribution of department and specialty stores, however. “Judith Leiber has been with the store since the brand’s incep- tion,” said Lincoln Moore, a divisional merchandising manager at Saks Fifth Avenue. “[Zambrelli] has really stepped out with the brand in terms of what he’s doing. Recently, we feel like there is a bit of a younger customer who is coming to shop the range, and we feel there is enormous potential for them to grow, mostly in the evening category.” Cooper concurred that evening still likely will drive the busi- ness, but he’s optimistic the expansion will only continue to evolve. “The evening bag is still our core business that we serve, and that is the core product that the customer looks to us for,” he said. “But we believe we can maintain our existing customer base while addressing a new customer and introducing products that address a more full accessories spectrum. I think it’s important as a company that we take the leadership in creating the brand in the way we

want to present it in the marketplace.” MITRA ROBERT PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 17 WWD.COM Fine Jewelry Report

A bracelet from the Star H.Stern Sparkles at 60 collection.

By Sophia Chabbott tourists view the collection of 1,100 tour- rock crystal jewelry with a Gothic star- malines in a profusion of colors that burst motif embedded with diamonds in NEW YORK — After 60 years in business, the Stern has amassed. styles such as a collar, long earrings culmi- family that runs H.Stern hasn’t lost its pas- While Stern’s love for color in tourma- nating with the star and massive cocktail sion for gems or its entrepreneurial spirit. lines and emeralds, which are also indige- rings of amethyst with a diamond-laden H.Stern has secured a foothold in the nous to Brazil, was evident in his designs, it starburst shining through from beneath. fine jewelry marketplace during its six was his son, Roberto, creative director of In honor of its anniversary, H.Stern out- decades, competing with companies such as the company, who spearheaded the brand’s lined these goals: Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Harry Winston and restructuring in 1995 that eventually led to ● Grow wholesale: The firm began Mikimoto, all of which are at least twice as its differentiation in the contempo- wholesaling its jewelry for the first time in old. It has done so by bringing kaleidoscopic rary market. He streamlined the U.S. this year to select retailers. There colors into its pieces and by tapping archi- stores and moved the brand to- are 55 doors that carry the line in the U.S., tects, musicians and most recently fash- ward creating more highly including Mayfair, which has four loca- ion designer Diane von Furstenberg to stylized jewelry. tions on Long Island. collaborate on collections. The flagship on Fifth “It attracts more of a fashion con- “Being in the jewelry industry for Avenue here was re- sumer,” said Lauren Kulchinsky, buyer 60 years is not so long,” said Ronaldo designed in 1997 as a and vice president at Mayfair of H.Stern’s Stern, chief executive officer of model for the other three designs. “Before that, it was more of a the jewelry company his fa- U.S. stores — two in New stone collectors’ brand. It’s one of the year and has set up shop in the Middle ther, chairman Hans York and one in Miami — and four top-selling brands in the store.” East. It looks to enter Asia in the future. Stern, founded in Rio the 165 units worldwide. Its freshening- Ronaldo Stern said he would like to ex- “It’s in our DNA to look for inspiration de Janeiro in 1945. “But up included glass and chrome cases to pand the number of wholesale accounts to in other realms outside the jewelry indus- what my father has house the jewels, and polished-wood between 75 and 100 doors within three years. try,” Ronaldo Stern said. “Jewelers are by done in his lifetime walls inset with cases featuring the na- “Our goal is to select a number of re- tradition reactive to trends and we are a makes us very proud and ture-inspired Golden Stones, Spring, tail partners in key U.S. markets to retail proactive brand as far as design and mar- speaks of the brand’s legiti- Cobblestone and Sunrise collections. the collection,” he said. “The main quest keting. What we are celebrating this year macy in every way.” In 2003, the company launched a is not in the number of partners, but how is the momentum of the brand here and Hans Stern, born Rings from Diane von marketing campaign in print advertise- they understand us and fit us within abroad — how much my father has done in Essen, Germany, Furstenberg by H.Stern. ments called “Part of You,” encouraging their product mix, and to be fluent in our for our business and for the industry in in 1922, emigrated to Brazil in 1939 and consumers to treat jewelry as part of one’s design philosophy.” his time, especially considering that he at age 23 founded a precious stones firm personality. Last month, the firm rolled ● Create cutting-edge designs: Hans runs a privately owned business while so in Rio de Janeiro. out print ads featuring Kate Moss in Stern has given Roberto free reign to design many of our competitors have been sold “I fell in love with the gems of Brazil,” honor of the anniversary, but pulled them a $1 million necklace made of 24 Brazilian and become part of a huge corporation. Hans Stern said. “As a young man, I could- when images of Moss allegedly using co- and Colombian emeralds he has collected. “We also celebrate the fact that people, n’t understand why they weren’t more val- caine appeared in tabloids. Stern is work- Each weighs from 18 to 25 carats and each celebrities, trendsetters and opinion lead- ued, more desired. They lacked nothing ing on a new campaign to bow next year. will be set among diamonds. The company ers worldwide continue to encourage us compared to the more known gems.” The company also launched the Star will unveil the finished piece early next year. to do what we do because they really Stern was so enthralled that he erect- collection, which is what “Stern” means in ● Expand the number of stores: think we are a unique company with a ed a gemstone museum in 1980, where German. The small collection comprises H.Stern is opening in Moscow early next very unique product.”

shops in Saks Fifth Avenue stores, each meas- uring about 300 square feet, with another an- Graff’s Rodeo Drive Real Estate ticipated to open in Boston next year. But Graff, which industry sources say has a By Rose Apodaca dition as the other stores around the country,” worldwide retail volume of about $350 million, said Barguirdjian. isn’t looking to expand much further. BEVERLY HILLS — Graff finally has its space That means rotating display cases, a four-color While Barguirdjian was willing to offer that for a West Coast flagship. marble floor, limestone pillars and the trademark one or two more stores in the U.S. may still open The London-based jewelry house has signed lion’s head frontispiece. The exterior suggests the down the line, he wouldn’t say when or where. a long-term lease on a 1,800-square-foot store classic architecture of a London storefront. “We want to focus on the existing stores be- at 317 North Rodeo Drive. This is the fifth retail space in the U.S. for fore we do more,” he said. “This one in California is a milestone that the jeweler, after it opened freestanding doors It’s also a matter of quality, he added. For ex- completes our presence from the East Coast to in Chicago; New York; Palm Beach, Fla., and, ample, Graff controls 65 percent of the yellow the West,” Henri Barguirdjian, president and most recently, the Wynn Resort in Las Vegas, diamonds in the world. Recently it sold one of chief executive officer of Graff in America, said. where Graff has a 1,700-square-foot boutique. its most distinctive, rare pieces, the Golden The Los Angeles unit comes on the heels of Finally getting to Rodeo Drive was, as al- Star, a 101-carat fancy vivid yellow cushion-cut Graff ’s announcement that it will open a 12,000- ways, a matter of location. diamond, for more than $12 million. square-foot U.S. headquarters in Manhattan, on “We were waiting for the right opportunity “We are offering jewelry that is really high East 61st Street, and just four years after the jew- real estate-wise,” Barguirdjian said. “Vegas came end, one of a kind,” Barguirdjian said. “So eler established business operations in the U.S. to us really early after we decided to establish there will never be 20 Graff stores because The new door here, expected to open by Graff in America. Once we established Vegas, there’s not enough resources in the world to spring, is “going to be a full-fledged, beautiful California came very naturally as the next site.” create such precious, exclusive pieces. No way Graff store built within the same style and tra- There are also a total of nine Graff in-store can that be done with a lot of points-of-sale.” The new Graff store. 18 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 WWD.COM Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT WWDCOMPOSITE STOCK INDEX VS. S&P 500 HIGH LOWP/E (00’S) LAST CHANGE RETAILERS 74.10 31.08Abercrombie Abercrombie & &Fitch Fitch 17.8 147310 49.85 3.34 35.46 19.87Aéropostale éeropostale 14.1 45919 21.25 0.30 34.04 17.66American American Eagle Eagle 12.4 212022 23.53 1.10 28.75 19.98Ann Ann Taylor Taylor 73.4 45748 26.55 0.41 S&P 500 30.97 9.13Bebe Bebe 23.0 52354 17.50 0.17 3.59 1.20Bluefly Bluefly - 3061 1.53 -0.06 23.22 10.62Bon-Ton Bon-Ton 15.0 4124 19.42 0.81 44.08 20.90Burlington Burlington Coat Coat 16.0 6905 38.04 0.79 18.53 10.90Caché Cache 22.9 7540 15.23 0.59 22.27 14.45Cato Cato 15.7 5882 19.93 0.73 15.21 8.84Charlotte Charlotte Russe Russe 38.0 20666 13.32 -0.61 12.34 7.00Charming Charming Shoppes Shoppes 16.2 67265 10.67 -0.33 41.67 17.02Chico’s Chico's FAS FAS 38.6 91604 36.80 2.99 52.94 23.19Children’s Children's Place Place 28.4 36611 35.59 -1.44 31.60 20.86CVS CVS 23.3 202525 29.01 0.53 31.35 20.38Deb Deb Shops Shops 14.0 610 21.74 0.44 WWD COMPOSITE STOCK INDEX 28.60 18.77Dillard’s Dillard's 14.9 36046 20.88 -0.32 22.80 17.75Dollar Dollar General General 16.9 122238 18.34 -0.41 26.77 15.19Dress Dress Barn Barn 20.3 17056 22.76 -0.04 59.21 30.78eBay eBay 59.0 789632 41.20 2.42 35.25 19.40Family Family Dollar Dollar 15.2 122187 19.87 0.09 78.05 44.39Federated Federated 14.7 136033 66.87 0.68 29.95 20.79Foot Foot Locker Locker 12.7 45979 21.94 0.73 6/24 7/8 7/22 8/5 8/19 9/2 9/16 9/30 23.75 16.70Gap Gap 12.5 198868 17.43 0.33 11.10 6.66Goody’s Goody's - 4558 7.57 0.32 12.45 5.80Gottschalks Gottschalks 20.5 2129 9.12 0.10 25.67 11.58Guess Guess 24.1 16784 21.43 1.35 2.10 0.91Harold’s Harold's Stores Stores - 72 0.97 0.01 WWDSTOCK INDEX GETS 2.5% LIFT 23.49 13.51Hot Hot Topic Topic 19.6 42397 15.36 0.57 57.99 34.03J.C. J.C. Penney Penney 16.6 111259 47.42 0.22 58.90 45.09Kohl’s Kohl's 21.4 147140 50.18 1.18 NEW YORK — Declining oil prices offset fears of a spending pullback due to eroding consumer confidence, which 27.89 18.95Limited Limited Brands Brands 15.2 92441 20.43 0.25 pushed the WWD Composite Stock Index up 2.5 percent for the week. 18.66 10.00Mothers Mothers Work Work 27.3 611 10.00 -1.65 The index rose to 1,050.73 on Friday from 1,025.25 in the prior week. The gain was ahead of the S&P 500’s 100.98 56.28Neiman Neiman Marcus Marcus 19.4 13390 99.95 0.42 24.41 14.49New New York York & &Co. Co. 17.9 12953 16.40 0.51 1.1 percent increase to 1,228.81 from 1,215.29. 37.96 18.91Nordstrom Nordstrom 19.8 94461 34.32 -0.03 For retail shares, last week was a bit of a bumpy ride. The ongoing concern is fuel costs and their impact on con- 29.05 20.33Pacific Pacific Sunwear Sunwear 14.5 53275 21.44 -0.42 sumer spending. Last Tuesday, the Conference Board reported its sharpest point drop of its Consumer Confidence 46.88 33.86Regis Regis 26.2 20911 37.82 -0.88 14.34 6.02Retail Retail Ventures Ventures - 12293 10.98 -0.49 Index in 15 years. The index fell 18.9 points for September, which also brought the index to its lowest level in two 31.37 22.34Ross Ross Stores Stores 18.5 91013 23.70 0.76 years. For the four weeks ended Sept. 20, the index dropped to 86.6 for the month from a reading of 105.5 in 24.64 11.71Saks Saks 41.4 71853 18.50 0.05 August. Economists had expected the index to decline to around a reading of 95. 163.50 84.51Sears Sears 9.9 169363 124.43 3.43 26.70 15.88ShopKo ShopKo 15.1 31671 25.52 0.47 As investors mulled weakening consumer confidence levels, the Commerce Department said consumer inflation 32.07 22.00Stage Stage Stores Stores 13.4 12724 26.87 0.70 rose 0.5 percent, which is the highest gain since 1990. Meanwhile, consumer spending showed a 0.5 percent decline. 26.47 14.55Stein Stein Mart Mart 17.5 17208 20.30 0.84 But a drop in the price of oil on Friday to $66.24 a barrel was good enough for investors to push up shares of 15.80 10.25Syms Syms 35.9 569 13.39 -0.61 key retail stocks. 35.34 24.11T Talbotsalbots 16.4 17126 29.92 0.79 60.00 45.17Tar Targetget 21.1 190190 51.93 -0.66 — Arthur Zaczkiewicz 25.96 19.95TJX TJX Cos. 15.6 112639 20.48 -0.08 9.69 2.49United United Retail Retail Group Group - 1705 7.71 0.02 31.48 16.84Urban Urban Outfitters Outfitters 41.6 133221 29.40 1.97 57.89 42.31W Wal-Martal-Mart 17.2 787368 43.82 0.62 7.04 1.35W Wetet Seal Seal - 46155 4.50 0.27 7.30 2.44Wilsons Wilsons Leather Leather 2.3 8942 6.10 0.20 34.42 25.50Zale Zale 13.1 11085 27.18 -0.07 VENDORS 56.31 41.61Alberto Alberto Culver Culver 20.2 21533 44.75 0.19 45.66 26.30A Avonvon 13.1 264371 27.00 -0.35 26.76 17.56Benetton Benetton 27.9 503 21.39 0.46 37.87 23.75Cherokee Cherokee 16.9 1309 34.98 1.99 36.42 19.54Coach Coach 30.3 139169 31.36 -1.06 62.18 41.90Columbia Columbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 13.7 9676 46.40 0.84 26.50 20.22Elizabeth Elizabeth Arden Arden 16.2 10650 21.58 0.79 47.50 33.65Estée Estee Lauder Lauder 18.8 138995 34.83 -0.57 32.37 17.82Fossil Fossil 14.0 23912 18.19 -0.44 11.89 5.69G-III G-III 34.1 98 11.24 -0.06 43.20 34.34IFF IFF 16.9 21128 35.64 0.82 21.80 12.23Inter Inter Parfums Parfums 25.3 1417 19.69 0.70 37.49 26.85Jones Jones Apparel Apparel 12.7 35724 28.50 0.57 37.68 23.53Kellwood Kellwood - 16923 25.85 0.89 35.29 24.66Kenneth Kenneth Cole Cole 14.9 3669 27.29 0.08 43.82 34.15Liz Liz Claiborne Claiborne 13.2 29174 39.32 -0.20 6.20 2.98Mossimo Mossimo 17.1 646 4.97 0.02 20.38 15.24Movado Movado 16.9 2255 18.72 0.53 92.43 75.10Nike Nike 16.1 85993 81.68 0.41 51.68 33.34Oxford Oxford 15.0 4686 45.12 1.10 16.25 9.52Perfumania Perfumania 9.5 11 14.00 -0.25 26.48 18.20Perry Perry Ellis Ellis 9.2 1602 21.74 -0.41 35.38 21.39Phillips-Van Phillips-Van Heusen Heusen 16.8 16463 31.02 0.76 53.25 33.75Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 22.4 31245 50.30 1.66 18.12 12.46Quiksilver Quiksilver 17.1 56315 14.45 -0.01 57.45 34.84Reebok Reebok 15.8 18776 56.57 0.06 4.29 1.96Revlon Revlon - 34676 3.22 -0.15 21.84 12.94Russell Russell 10.3 18229 14.04 0.86 24.65 15.69Steve Steve Madden Madden 28.5 5317 22.92 -0.12 4.22 0.71Ta Tarrantrrant - 4544 3.14 -0.11 18.76 8.47T Tommyommy Hilfiger Hilfiger 14.5 37098 17.35 0.36 18.25 1.96Tr Trueue Religion Religion Apparel Apparel 30.1 18875 16.64 1.43 61.61 47.15VF VF Corp. Corp. 12.7 15713 57.97 0.17 25.88 19.21Wa Warnacornaco 18.6 31785 21.91 -0.67

WWDStock Market Index Weekly % Changes (ending Sept. 30)

Largest Gainers Close Change True Religion 16.64 9.40 Composite: Retailers: Vendors: Chico's FAS 36.80 8.84 1050.73 1053.60 994.12 Urban Outfitters 29.40 7.20 A&F 49.85 7.18 Guess 21.43 6.72

25.48 33.72 -31.08 Largest Losers Close Change Mothers Work 10.00 -14.16 Revlon 3.22 -4.45 Charlotte Russe 13.32 -4.38 Syms 13.39 -4.36 Index base of 1000 is keyed to Retail Ventures 10.98 -4.27 closing prices of Dec. 31, 2002. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 19 WWD.COM Industry Forms Nonprofit Group for Disaster Victims

By Vicki M. Young matching contributions fund,” said Setola. Darling said of his company’s participation: “It’s the NEW YORK — The nonprofit organization formed for right thing to do.” His firm, which also donated goods fashion and home goods firms to help disaster victims when the tsunami hit Southeast Asia in December, will be now has an official name: Fashion Delivers Charitable providing home textiles and apparel items. Foundation Inc. “We are prepared to be involved for the long [haul]. While Hurricane Katrina inspired Allan Ellinger, a This is not a onetime contribution. It will take a number partner at Marketing Management Group, to form the of years for Katrina victims to get back on their feet. foundation, the purpose of the not-for-profit is to aid Scientists said that we could be in a 20-year cycle, so the fashion companies help disaster victims rebuild their [Katrina disaster] is not the first and it won’t be the last. lives, anytime and anywhere tragedy strikes. We will contribute where we can,” Darling said. The foundation expects the initial merchandise re- costs. Ellinger said through the assistance of K.I.D.S., Senior advisers to the foundation include Marvin ceived by participating companies to be shipped to Fashion Delivers should be able to operate on a “very low Sandberg, former chief operating officer of PCA Apparel; Katrina victims, with products available on an ongoing overhead cost structure.” Norman Karr, former executive director of The Fashion basis for distribution throughout the year. Companies “The project started out of the frustrations of a few Association, and Ed Kaminow, former president and chief are expected to contribute new products. wholesalers who wanted to make clothing donations, but executive officer of Westmill Clothes. In most instances, firms that donate goods qualify for a didn’t know how to coordinate them. Allan Ellinger in- Several professional service firms, whose clients are charitable deduction. Depending on the type of legal entity quired if Oxford was doing anything, which we were, and in the fashion industry, have agreed to waive fees to assist — such as a corporation, partnership or limited liability I explained [the company] had set up a donation and the foundation. company — the deduction can range from the cost of inventory to up to twice its cost. Ellinger will chair the board. Some of the other members in- clude: Dick Baker, president, Op, a division of Warnaco Group Inc.; Rick Darling, president, Li & Fung USA; Mark Heller, execu- tive vice president, CIT Group/Commercial Services; Elyse Kroll, president of ENK International; Abby Parsonette, The project “started out of the frustrations of a few wholesalers who wanted to make clothing donations. — Michael Setola,” Oxford senior vice president, J.P. Morgan Chase & Co.; John Pomerantz, for- mer chairman, Leslie Fay; Jay Silver, partner, Mahoney Cohen; Michael Setola, president, Oxford Industries, and Haresh Tharani, chairman, Bill Blass Ltd. The foundation, which is al- lied with Kids in Distressed Situations Inc., can be reached at 800-818-1388. The group is in the process of obtaining a local telephone number in Manhattan, and is temporarily using the K.I.D.S. local number, which is 212-279-5493. The Web site ad- dress is fashiondelivers.org. According to Ellinger, the group decided to work with K.I.D.S. because of its similar ca- pacity in mobilizing the children’s industry and its ability to provide Fashion Delivers with an operat- ing infrastructure that can ship goods to where they are needed. Rather than store up products, K.I.D.S. arranges for donor mem- bers to send items directly to an agency in their community. Janice Weinman, president of K.I.D.S., had explained that, by piggybacking on the existing channels of distribution, her or- ganization can run efficiently with a low 3 percent overhead and guarantee that 100 percent of donations go directly to fami- lies in need. While Fashion Delivers does not accept monetary donations on a regular basis, it may from time to time conduct fund-raising activities to help defray overhead 20 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 WWD.COM Wall Street Bullish on Ann Taylor’s Weil

By Meredith Derby has a market capitalization of about $1.9 billion. At American Eagle, Weil navigated some rough finan- NEW YORK — Wall Street is betting on the arrival of for- cial waters, which is why analysts believe she will be a mer American Eagle Outfitters Inc. chief financial offi- valuable addition to Ann Taylor. “Laura has matured into cer Laura A. Weil at Ann Taylor Stores Corp. today as the cfo position [at American Eagle]. The Bluenotes [di- the key to the retailer’s turnaround success. vestiture] was not a fun exercise, but clearly helped her Analysts feel Weil can cure the retailer’s inventory in terms of her maturity and ability to deal with those and fashion hiccups, which helped cause a 37 percent things,” explained Pierce, referring to American Eagle’s drop in profits in full-year 2004. Weil’s expertise and no- sale of its underperforming Bluenotes division, a 109- nonsense manner is expected to complement the skills store Canadian-based retail chain, to Canadian retailer of Kay Krill, Ann Taylor’s president. The addition of Michael Gold last December for an undisclosed sum. Weil also will allow Krill to focus on what she does best: “The thing with Ann Taylor is that the chief operat- merchandising and marketing. ing officer function is kind of in there to make sure the Krill, 49, who will replace J. Patrick Spainhour as left hand knows what the right hand is doing,” Pierce chief executive officer of Ann Taylor next month, already said. “She has the financial expertise and skills and, I has been credited with turning around the company’s think, the understanding of the merchandising side. I Loft division. On the company’s quarterly conference call think she’s grown with American Eagle and that’s what in August, Krill said the company’s new priority is to im- Ann Taylor needs right now.” prove financial performance in the Ann Taylor division. Independent retail analyst Jennifer Black of The company initially announced its search for a Jennifer Black & Associates, agreed. “I would be terri- chief operating officer — a new position — in late fied to hire a cfo that has seen nothing but good times. March after detailing a succession plan for Krill to be- Because [Weil] has seen the worst and the best, that’s come ceo following the retirement of long-standing really a plus,” said Black, who currently lists Ann Taylor chairman and ceo Spainhour, 55. as her top stock pick with the potential to reach $40 a Weil’s background certainly makes her well suited share. It currently is trading at around $25, down about for the chief operating officer role. Weil worked at 4.3 percent year-over-year. American Eagle for 10 years, focusing on all financial tate; construction and facilities, and related purchasing. Banc of America Securities analyst Dana Cohen said aspects of the business, including real estate, pricing, An Ann Taylor spokeswoman said Krill was unavail- in a research note earlier this month that Ann Taylor assortment sourcing and logistics. Prior to American able for comment. Weil, whose last day at American has been trying since fall 2004 to rebuild gross margins Eagle, Weil was head of the retailing investment bank- Eagle was Sept. 9, could not be reached for comment. and operating margins, which had dropped more than ing practice at Oppenheimer & Co. Prior to that, she While Ann Taylor has been showing signs of a turn- 600 basis points from highs reached in 1999. held several executive positions at R.H. Macy & Co. around lately, most recently with a 3.7 percent rise in American Eagle was in a similar situation in 2003 Analysts agree that inventory management is surely August same-store sales, comps still have been negative in after it had blundered on fashion in the fall of 2002. one of the areas where Weil, 48, can help Ann Taylor, eight of the last 10 months. In its latest quarter, net profits Cohen noted that operating margins fell roughly 1,000 which operates 792 stores and an online business. Sanders fell 76 percent to $7.1 million, partially due to a onetime basis points following negative same-store sale results. Morris Harris analyst Liz Pierce said Weil, who will be the charge, on a 7.6 percent rise in sales to nearly $509 million. But in the past two years, Cohen said, American Eagle’s number-two executive at Ann Taylor behind Krill, likely Analysts expect Ann Taylor to report a profit of 37 operating margins have jumped and are expected to will act as the intermediary between finance and mer- cents a share in its current third quarter, which would reach an all-time high of around 20 percent in 2005. chandising, which is what the struggling company needs. compare favorably with earnings of 20 cents a year ago. American Eagle also has posted 18 months of consecu- According to Ann Taylor’s August 31 press release an- Meanwhile, there have been murmurs in the market re- tive comparable-store sales advances in its U.S. stores. nouncing Weil’s appointment, she will focus on finance cently that Ann Taylor is up for sale. The rumblings follow “It is this experience with both the downside of spe- and accounting; investor relations; merchandise plan- a WWD report from late April that said leveraged buyout cialty retailing and the strong organizational upgrades ning; information systems; all supply chain operations firms had been eyeing the chain, which, at the time, was at American Eagle that Ms. Weil brings to Ann Taylor at including sourcing, logistics and distribution; real es- said to be worth around $2 billion. The company currently this important juncture,” Cohen wrote. DVF Sizzles in Los Angeles LOS ANGELES — Diane von Furstenberg’s dresses have been characterized as sultry, which also could describe the designer. And that image was never more appropriate than at the opening Thursday of her Melrose Avenue store here, when the mercury climbed to more than 90 degrees. The debut attracted von Furstenberg pals from Julie Delpy and Jamie Tisch to Ariana Huffington and Christian Louboutin. Marsha Thomason blotted her forehead with a napkin while Teri Polo lapped up champagne. “My dress is sticking to my bum,” Polo said. “I wonder if they would mind if I just took another dress off the rack and put it on.” While there were plenty of dresses for guests such as Jessica Capshaw, Jacqui Getty and Regina King to peruse, the burnished steel racks were far from complete, Tar yn von Furstenberg noted. Crews were scrambling to complete the 1,600-square-foot, Manning bright white and mirror-speckled shop right up to the event, which was the first of two on Thursday to celebrate the opening of her third shop in the U.S. “The awnings weren’t even ready yet to shade the store, so I had to improvise with these rented trellises to keep the sun out,” said von Furstenberg, who kept grand- daughter Antonia Steinberg close at hand. Many guests improvised, too, using their invites as fans during the lunch. “Diane’s clothes are a little like togas — they wrap, they drape, they’re perfect in such heat,” said Rita Wilson, although her toga-like frock was by Chloé. Collecting quite a bit of heat at the affair were the colored-diamond, chunky link Julie Delpy bracelets and bulbous cocktail rings on show that von Furstenberg designed with H.Stern, among the special features at this door. So, too, will be the red-carpet-ready evening gowns, shoes and accessories many locals require year-round. The salon containing these luxury parts of the brand is dis- tinguished by a grand metal and glass Art Deco chandelier von Furstenberg brought from her New York studio. “The concept of all the stores is similar with the mirrors and Lucite,’’ she said. “But this one is so L.A. looking. Paris light, London light, L.A. light — they make the stores all so different.” She will get a chance to consider the light in Hong Kong later Rita Wilson this month when she visits a recently opened 1,000-square-foot signature store there. and Diane von This week, a second Paris shop opens on the Left Bank. Furstenberg For next year, von Furstenberg is considering new doors in Tokyo, Dubai and Shanghai, and possibly Munich — some owned by von Furstenberg, or with a partner or as a franchise. The New York store will reopen in a new 14th Street location. Los Angeles is a second home for von Furstenberg, who shares a Coldwater Canyon estate with husband Barry Diller. She recalled her first visit here in the Seventies: “For a European girl, you know, L.A. is movies and movie stars. When I came at that time, it was to meet movie stars, sleep with movie stars. I was just here a few days. But they were busy days.” Jessica — Rose Apodaca Camilla Belle Capshaw PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 21 WWD.COM

THE OVEREXPOSURE INDEX: It’s widely acknowledged that gossip columnists Kamali’s Catalogue Comeback have a symbiotic relationship with B- MEMO PAD list stars. For instance, a columnist By Marc Karimzadeh can turn a mediocre event into a legitimate item as long as the list of attendees is padded with boldface NEW YORK — Norma Kamali’s newest project is names, no matter how tenuous their connection to fame. In turn, if the a homecoming of sorts. B-list star possesses enough talent or cunning, he or she can use the In the mid-Eighties, Kamali produced exclu- columns to reach A-list status — at which point the star’s publicist sive pieces for the Spiegel catalogue, which immediately begins trying to keep the client’s name out of the papers. were so successful the company even spun off a More often, though, the two camps feed each other until the stand-alone catalogue just for the designer and usefulness of mentioning the actor or musician or what have you ebbs, photographed by the late Herb Ritts. and the gossip columnists simply move on to someone else. Now, two decades later, Kamali has come full Lately, that someone has been “Entourage” star Adrian Grenier. A circle. She has designed an exclusive collection typical Page Six item from this summer began, “‘Entourage’ star of 17 jersey looks for Spiegel Catalog called Adrian Grenier’s potluck picnic in Central Park’s Sheep Meadow the “Norma Kamali Timeless.” The collection will other afternoon turned into a full-blown party. Grenier and his rock ’n’ launch with a six-page opening spread in the re- ukulele band, The Honey Brothers, performed jokey tunes like ‘I Feel tailer’s spring catalogue, which will reach more Gay’ and ‘Monkeywrencher Love Song’ while their friends played four than two million homes in mid-January. The simultaneous games of Twister….” partnership will catapult Kamali’s fashion aes- Earlier this week, Grenier appears to have made his debut in the thetic to customers who wouldn’t necessarily get New York Daily News’ Rush & Molloy column with this item: the chance to ever see or find one of her designs. “‘Entourage’ star Adrian Grenier told Corcoran Group ceo Pam Liebman Fashion pundit and Kamali acquaintance he never watches TV. His mom, Karesse Grenier, is a broker there.” Lauren Ezersky suggested the deal to Geralynn Clearly, having a mother at one of New York City’s biggest real estate Madonna, president and chief executive officer firms has something to do with Grenier’s appeal, at least among certain of Spiegel Catalog and Newport News, who wast- columnists in Manhattan. ed no time and immediately picked up the Here, the latest installment of the Overexposure Index comparing phone to call Kamali. how Grenier stacks up against former gossip column regulars Moby and “I thought, ‘I don’t know what Stephen Dorff, whose mentions have dwindled a bit of late, for whatever [Spiegel] looks like now,’ and reason. — Sara James they sent me these books,” Spiegel’s Geralynn Madonna with Kamali said on Friday at the Madonna with WWD’S OVEREXPOSURE INDEX shoot for the company’s cata- Norma Kamali. logue. “I couldn’t believe the Number of gossip column mentions since Jan. 1, 2005, including Page photographs, the quality, the strapless or halter dress. Six, Rush & Molloy, Lowdown, Gatecrasher, The Transom (The New York clothes. I thought, ‘I’d love to “Af ter 35 years of doing this, Observer), Intelligencer (New York magazine), Boldface Names (The meet with them.’” you really have the right per- New York Times), Liz Smith, Cindy Adams, Army Archerd (Variety), Madonna said Kamali has spective on fashion,” Kamali Gawker.com and Defamer.com, according to Web and Lexis-Nexis been one of her favorite designers said. “Trends are fun, they are searches, and including alternate spellings of the stars’ names. since the mid-Seventies, and her the lightning rod, but when it wardrobe included Kamali’s fa- comes to gathering a wardrobe mous bathrobe coat with shoulder for yourself, there are pieces pads, a jersey button front dress that turn out to be favorite and a long black jersey skirt, pieces. You end up with your fa- among others. “I used to save my vorite jean and favorite shoes, paychecks to buy these outfits,” and over time, those favorites Madonna said. are still good and you want to She and scores of other wo- have more of them. You will real- men won’t have to save with the ize it’s a timeless piece.” STAR ADRIAN GRENIER MOBY STEPHEN DORFF Norma Kamali Timeless collec- The collection also includes tion. Typically, it will retail from such looks as V-neck Ts, hooded Gawker 13 20 2 $39 to $89, though swimwear is jackets, shrugs, off-the-shoulder Page Six 12 6 6 A variation on the around $19. ruched tops, drawstring pants Defamer 7 4 2 “I love the way she under- all-in-one piece. and racerback tops. It is avail- stands what women want,” Ma- able in deep red and black, and Boldface Names 6 4 0 donna added. “It’s versatile, af- some pieces are offered in a Gatecrasher 4 0 0 fordable and packable. She has black, red and white stripe. Lowdown 3 1 1 been the inspiration for many de- Spiegel’s Web site will fea- Rush & Molloy 1 3 2 signers over the years, and it’s her ture an informational video time again to get out there and with Kamali explaining the dif- Army Archerd 2 0 0 say, ‘This is my collection.’” ferent ways to wear each look. Cindy Adams 0 0 0 The move also underscores This is a long-term partner- Liz Smith 0 0 1 Spiegel’s new outlook. The cata- ship, and Madonna said that pos- logue underwent a total make- sibilities to build on the launch The Transom 0 1 0 over last year, with a reposi- are “endless.” “For fall ’06, we Intelligencer 0 1 0 tioned catalogue featuring con- are planning to expand the col- Total mentions 48 40 14 tributors such as stylist Wayne lection with a few more pieces Scot Lukas and model Lauren and add more colors and sizes,” Hutton, as well as exclusive de- Madonna said. “Once we get it VERTICAL’S LEAP: What if you could start an independent magazine using signs by James Coviello and started, I’d also like to go to an the resources and expertise of a big publishing company? Well, you can’t, jewelry designer Wells Jenkins. XXL and also petite.” but the company that publishes Giant magazine, Vertical Media, is Spiegel continues to pursue up- Madonna added the line has offering what it hopes will prove the next best thing. On Thursday, Vertical scale designers for collabora- the potential to do more than signed a “management services contract” with Breathe, a year-old lifestyle tions that would bring their de- $10 million in sales in its first title aimed at women who practice yoga. Under signs to a wider audience. season. the deal, Vertical will take control of all of “With the positioning of Kamali has been busy with Breathe’s business side operations, including Spiegel, we want to create a way Looks from Norma Kamali Timeless, projects recently: she also team- advertising sales, circulation and purchasing. In for all of our customers to get the which is exclusive to Spiegel. ed up with activewear firm return, Vertical will receive an undisclosed fee designs of these great designers at our prices,” Jacques Moret, which holds the master license and a small equity stake in Breathe, which has said Madonna. for Everlast, to launch a cobranded Norma a circulation of 100,000. “There’s a lot of really The Norma Kamali Timeless collection cen- Kamali and Everlast sportswear collection for smart elements to this business that were ters around convertible jersey pieces that can spring. “I really didn’t orchestrate any of this,” underleveraged before,” said Jamie Hooper, be styled in multiple ways and convert from one she said of the recent flurry of collaborations. “I Vertical’s founder and president. thing into something else altogether. decided to go with the flow. My instinct was, A former publisher of Maxim and Stuff who “You have the option of changing the way you ‘This feels right, I am going to go with it,’ and started Giant in 2004, Hooper got the idea for offering management wear it through those trends,” Kamali said. “You they just happened at the same time.” services from his father-in-law, Mort Meyerson, a venture capitalist and can also get pregnant and wear them. You can It wasn’t the only coincidence that came former chief executive officer of Electronic Data Systems. “This is wear them short and sexy and cute and sweet, or Kamali’s way. Last Thursday, a day before the basically for independent magazines what EDS was for computer you can wear them to work and be demure.” shoot, she received a letter from a customer that systems,” he said. “It’s a model that’s being done in a million businesses, For instance, the “all-in-one mini” is a top with included tear sheets from Spiegel’s catalogue in but not in magazines.” Breathe was a logical first client: Meyerson, who is a wide neck that can turn into a miniskirt with the the Eighties featuring her pieces. bankrolling Giant’s launch, is a minority investor in the title. sleeves serving as a belt fastening. The “all-in-one “The person said, ‘I was going through my Outsourcing may create efficiency, but it also creates redundancy. dress,” meanwhile, can be worn as a top, a dress attic, and I found these pictures. I had bought Deanna Brown, Breathe’s ceo and founder, has left the company, and with an asymmetrical neckline or a halter dress these pieces through Spiegel,’” Kamali noted. Paula Watson, its chief financial officer and general manager, will be with the sleeves serving as the halter. The “con- “Is that not the weirdest thing? Out of all these gone after this week. — Jeff Bercovici

vertible tie-waist skirt” also works as a skirt or a years, why yesterday?” KAMALI PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE 22 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 WWD.COM Color, Vintage Details Abound at Paris Shows

PARIS — Black may be the new runway religion, but color ruled ion brand out of Marseilles, said “this has been our best season at the Prêt à Porter and Who’s Next trade shows here. ever. There have been a lot of Russians, Middle Eastern clients A look from Romantic confections, feminine frills with embroidery and lin- and English.” Les Prairies gerie looks again will be the staples of summer, retailers and ex- This season was special for the Prêt, as it celebrated its 100th at Who’s hibitors said at the shows at the Porte de Versailles exhibit halls. show and its 50th anniversary. Jean-Pierre Mocho, the show’s pres- Next. Business was solid, as exhibitors reported brisk order writing. ident, said he and his team had rearranged the event to facilitate Some retailers said their buying budgets would grow by up to 30 order writing and that most exhibitors had reported good business. percent for the spring-summer 2006 selling season. “Retailers and exhibitors alike were positive for the season,” Vintage and antique details remained hot, with voluminous Mocho said. skirts, lace trimming, pedal pushers and flower prints illustrat- At Who’s Next, buyers said skirts and dresses were the story for ing the vogue for Forties- and Fifties-influenced looks. next summer. But shorts — either tight or bloomers — remain a Dresses were another major story. must. Some buyers said collections had less denim than in the past. “Women want dresses more and more — and good dresses “Skirts and dresses are a good alternative to denim,” said aren’t easy to find,” said Evelyn Schur, who runs the Brooklyn, Sofie Bos, co-owner of Ghent, Belgium, contemporary women’s N.Y., fashion shop Elegance. Schur, shopping the Prêt, said last fashion shop Zoot. summer’s trends would trickle over into 2006. Bos, who is banking on blue and green hues for next summer, “We’re seeing a lot of what we’ve seen in the past: light and searched for Fifties looks and placed orders at Limbo, a Helsinki pretty, with colors and bohemian styles,” she said. As for busi- women’s fashion label, and Babbu, based in Cesena, Italy. ness, Schur said sales have been “good,” but that she would keep Bos said she would increase her budget by 40 percent, but noted her budget on par with last year. that her store had recently opened and had not met its full capacity. Jacqueline Ferrarini, who runs Aux Sylphides, a women’s store Ethnic prints were also a common trend throughout many col- in Lausanne, Switzerland, said her business had been “tough.” lections. “African prints are everywhere,” said Penman, who “The price of gasoline is high and people, in general, aren’t placed orders at Irene Van Ryb. spending as much on frivolous pleasures,” she said, adding “African prints seem popular,” added Brigitte Fiedler, owner she would keep her budget at the same level as last year. of Lolita, a contemporary women’s wear shop in Saint Maxime, Overall, the business trends remained little changed, France. Fiedler praised spring-summer collections by Essential with buyers from Europe, particularly France and based in Antwerp, Belgium, and Paris designer Sylvia Rielle. Germany, reporting tepid sales and delivering prudent out- Though color remained a staple, buyers at Who’s Next no- looks. Retailers in France and Germany have suffered ticed collections were getting a bit darker. from lukewarm economies. “Black is coming back,” said Beate Heckmann, Nonetheless, some retailers preached a prudent buyer for Pro Idee, a high-end mail-order firm based buying approach to the season. in Aachen, Germany. A look from “There are so many shops opening, competition “There are many pastel colors, but overall, collec- Orla Kiely at has increased tremendously and customers are tions seem to be getting darker, more classical and Who’s Next. very spread out, so it’s important to choose care- more timeless,” said Charlotte de Staël, owner of fully,” said Pauline James, buyer for Gallery 28, a Shine, a shop in Trondheim, Norway. women’s wear boutique in London. De Staël, who will increase her budget for next “I’m being very cautious,” agreed Fiona summer by as much as 30 percent, opted for the Penman, co-owner of Penman Harris, a women’s shorts fitted at the knee at Manoush, as well as col- wear and accessories shop in London. “We buy in lections at Orla Kiely and Les Petites. small quantities, even if we have to reorder. It’s Exhibitors reported good business overall, de- better not to overcommit.” spite a low turnout of Americans. Other buyers predicted a more buoyant season. “There are hardly any Americans,” said Laetitia Lina Alnashwati, who runs Glamour Boutique in Ivanez, who designs the contemporary Les Prairies Kuwait, said her budget would grow by 30 A look from de Paris line, which has a Russian gypsy theme next to 40 percent, thanks to strong business Ana Studio season. She said standouts were “casual dresses that generated by feminine fashions. at the Prêt. can be worn out or to the beach.” And Larisa Prikhodko, who next year Relaunching her label after four years of putting will open a shop in Moscow, said she is betting on ul- her business on pause, French designer Sylvia Rielle trastrong business from Russian women hungry for played with feminine styles such as blouses and fashion. dresses with hints of ethnic elements such as African Exhibitors said southern European and Asian motifs and rock ’n’ roll touches. Gold pedal pushers buyers fueled business at the shows. At Tara were priced at 65 euros, or $78 at current exchange, Jarmon, the French moderate fashion house, at wholesale and short-sleeve blouses for 60 euros, Vittorio Orebi, commercial director, said sales at or $72, at wholesale were selling well. the show had surged 50 percent from last year, Who’s Next organizers said 26,526 buyers visited thanks to orders from Asia, Russia and Italy. the show, down 6 percent from last year. Attendance Didier Parakian, who runs his self-named fash- figures for the Prêt were not available. PHOTOS BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY Daffy’s Kicks Off New Ad Campaign

By David Moin cent, and home, 5 percent. The highest-volume Daffy’s NEW YORK — Daffy’s will today launch its biggest ad- store is the 100,000-square-foot unit on Broadway and 34th vertising effort in five years, a quirky campaign depict- Street. Last year, Daffy’s exceeded $160 million in sales. ing the lives of three “spokesmannequins” named “This is the biggest campaign I have done in certainly “Deb,” “Tanya” and “Jackie.” Their story will be told more than five years, in terms of money,” Wilson said. The through outdoor and radio ads and guerrilla marketing campaign begins with urban panels, phone kiosks, PATH and was inspired by TV shows such as “Desperate trains displaying the graphics and radio spots; the guer- Housewives” and “Sex and the City.” rilla marketing begins Thursday, with “Deb,” “Tanya” and “It’s been a while since we have really put ourselves “Jackie” riding on trucks around Manhattan. The cam- out there,” said Marcia Wilson, president and chief ex- paign was created by the Branding Partnership. ecutive officer of Daffy’s, the 20-unit off-price chain Daffy’s has a history of offbeat marketing. In 1963, Jackie, Tanya and Deb on the subway. based in Secaucus, N.J. “This is really going to be a one diamond chip was placed in a bowl of glass chips branding campaign, a whole marketing effort.” and customers lined up to select a chip and take it to a created by Roostein, updated by Frank Glover TV is excluded because, as Wilson said, “We are still jeweler to see if it was the “diamond in the cup.” Four Productions and wear wigs by Anne Kong. little guys. To have impact on TV, you really need some years later, the store placed a wheelbarrow of silver dol- “Deb, Tanya and Jackie will not only be seen as fash- major presence, which means major bucks. You’ve got lars and sold each to customers for 88 cents, to demon- ion icons in and around the tristate area; we hope that a more captive audience in a car with a radio.” She strate that a dollar goes farther at Daffy’s. they will become characters consumers care about, com- said Daffy’s has about a $500,000 media buy budgeted Daffy’s mannequins represent different kinds of plete with life histories and amusing stories about them,” for the next couple of months. Daffy’s shoppers with different personalities. “Deb” is Wilson said. Along with the main characters, subplots will be de- trendy, tall and single and always seeking attention. While seeking greater exposure and more customers veloped revolving around other character mannequins “Tanya” is married, suburban, with a funky chic style, for Daffy’s, Wilson said she has no interest in selling the to be introduced later. “With a name like Daffy’s, you and “Jackie” is divorced, has lots of lovers and a classic, family’s company or taking it public. She’s the daughter can’t take yourself too seriously,” said Wilson. elegant style. Initially, the trio will be depicted hailing a of the chain’s founder, Irv Shulman. “Quite honestly, we More than 60 percent of the chain’s volume is in taxi, on the subway, biking, boating in Central Park, in a are not interested in selling right now.” Asked if Daffy’s women’s; men’s represents about 20 percent; kids, 15 per- yoga class and grocery shopping. The mannequins were is profitable, she replied, “You bet we are.” LIMITED WWD DNR AVAILABILITY CEOSUMMIT Nov. 2–4, 2005, The Ritz-Carlton Battery Park, New York

A peer-to-peer meeting for CEOs managing the challenge of change Including:

Vera Wang Robert Polet Myron E. Ullman III Eric C. Wiseman Vera Wang Bridal House Ltd. Gucci Group NV J.C. Penney Company Inc. VF Corp.

Claudio Del Vecchio Mindy Grossman David Lauren Matteo Marzotto Retail Brand Alliance Inc. Nike Inc. Polo Ralph Lauren Valentino SpA

Nicolas Ghesquière Gregory Scott Ronald B. Johnson Marjorie Yang Balenciaga SA bebe stores inc. Apple Retail Esquel Group

Also including: Terri L. Kelly, W.L. Gore & Associates, Inc.; Kevin Roberts, Saatchi & Saatchi; Susan Lyne, Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia Inc.; David M. Spooner, Office of the United States Trade Representative; Gary Hawkins, Green Hills; Philip Bleser, JP Morgan Chase; Jim Neal, Kurt Salmon Associates; James M. Citrin, Spencer Stuart; Scott Friend, Oracle Retail and Bruce Mosler, Cushman & Wakefield Inc.

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Sponsored by: 24 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 WWD.COM Avedon’s Iconic Exhibit Is Revisited by Museum By Holly Haber “Avedon at Work: Photographs by Laura Wilson.” of concern today. What happens when there is unem- She wrote that Avedon said, “‘I am looking for a new ployment for a whole town? What does someone’s face FORT WORTH, Tex. — Richard Avedon’s groundbreak- definition of a photographic portrait. I’m looking for look like who has been told after 22 years of hard work ing portrait exhibit, “In the American West,’’ was both people who are surprising, heartbreaking or beautiful in that there is no more work?” vilified and praised when it opened 20 years ago at the a terrifying way. Beauty that might scare you to death The project still resonates with many of those who Amon Carter Museum here. until you acknowledge it as part of yourself.’’’ were photographed, some of whom viewed the portraits A critic for the Fort Worth Star-Telegram derided the The photographs have been put back on display at the at a preview this month. black-and-white photos of small-town working people insistence of museum members and other visitors, “Every time I see it I see something different,” and drifters as “perverse,’’ and visitors com- Rohrbach said. reflected Billy Mudd, who was taking a break from driv- plained that the photo subjects appeared to be And, he said, “I’m selfish….I wanted to see ing a truck at an oil rig in Alto, Tex., in 1981 when Avedon “low class’’ and “ugly.’’ what it was like where one had to deal with captured him, shirtless. “These are the small people of Still, thousands of people crowded the room after room after room of these peo- the world — the little bitty people — but they’re the ones museum to view the stark images, and some Arts ple. I say ‘these people’ quite deliberately who make the world go ’round.” art critics also celebrated their Gazing at his own portrait, humanity and impact in helping to Billy Mudd and Boyd Fortin and his 1979 Mudd said, “I never realized I had shatter stereotypes of the West. his 1981 portrait by Richard Avedon. so many scars on my body.” Now, a year after Avedon’s & Avedon portrait. One of the best-known images is death, the museum again has that of 13-year-old Boyd Fortin mounted the landmark exhibit, People holding an eviscerated rattlesnake. displaying 78 of the 124 images it Avedon found him in the skinning commissioned Avedon to shoot pit at the annual Rattlesnake from 1979 to 1984. Roundup in Sweetwater, Tex. “It will not be as controversial Fortin, who learned to skin a snake now, in part, because these images around the age of nine, said he have entered our visual vocabu- liked going to the roundup because lary, and in a way it is like seeing he often got his picture in the an old friend,” said John Rohr- newspaper. When Avedon asked to bach, the museum’s senior curator take his portrait, he didn’t hesitate. of photographs. “Yet some are not “I didn’t know who he was,” easy to look at.” Fortin recalled. “He said, ‘Son, Avedon’s stark images portray I’m going to make you famous.’’’ housekeepers, miners, bartenders Now an environmental engi- and roughnecks, among others, in neer in the oil industry, Fortin excruciating detail. Using an 8- said he vividly remembered his inch-by-10-inch Deardorff camera three sittings with Avedon on a and with meticulous shading in the cold March day. “He said, ‘Stare dark room, every scar, stain, wrin- straight into the camera and close kle and blemish is evident. Avedon your mouth, and I want to see no typically shot his subjects at the facial expression whatsoever.’” end of the day, when soot from the Avedon remained in contact mines, blood from the slaughter- with many of the photo subjects, houses or fatigue was thickest. periodically sending them books Renowned for his fashion and of his work and letters, and speak- celebrity photography, Avedon ing with some on the telephone. PHOTOS BY ANDY HANSON ANDY PHOTOS BY sought subjects in 189 small towns “He invited me three times to go in 13 western states. Each was photographed outdoors because yes, these are photos, but many are staring see him in New York, and I regret that I didn’t go,” said Rita standing in front of a white backdrop that had been directly at the camera and, therefore, at you. You are Carl, who was studying law enforcement when Avedon pho- taped up, often on a barn or warehouse. being pulled in to engage with these sitters very directly, tographed her in 1979 at the rattlesnake roundup. Most of those who sat for Avedon had no idea of his and I wanted to experience that.” Wilson was with Avedon when he died of a stroke in prominence. Only one person out of hundreds turned Running through Jan. 8, “In the American West” also San Antonio on Oct. 1, 2004. He had been photograph- him down, recalled Laura Wilson, a Dallas photographer will travel to the Columbus Museum of Art in Ohio; the ing burn victims and soldiers at Fort Hood for a series who worked with Avedon on the project. Wilson went on Center for Creative Photography in Tucson, Ariz., and called “Democracy” commissioned by The New Yorker every trip, sometimes bringing her three young children the Iris & B. Gerald Cantor Center for Visual Arts at magazine. — Andrew, Luke and Owen — now Hollywood’s Wilson Stanford University. His last words, she said, were about the people he brothers. “It’s a very, very important body of work because he was photographing. “He had such empathy for the burn Two years ago, at Avedon’s request, she published a didn’t turn away from the realities of their existence,’’ victims, and that’s what he spoke about at the end — how book about the making of “In the American West,” called Wilson said. “He was working with themes that are still hard it was seeing them, and how he felt about them.”

when Elmgreen and Dragset noticed that art galleries were being priced out of SoHo by designer stores. They built an Prada in the Desert installation at the Tanya Bonakdar Gallery sealing off the storefront and NEW YORK — After driving for several Marfa, a nonprofit space in Marfa, Tex. erecting a black-and-white sign on the hours on U.S. 90 from El Paso toward Despite its name, the installation is facade reading, “Coming Soon, Prada.” Valentine, Tex., and seeing nothing but located in Valentine, about 26 miles out- “At the time, Comme des Garçons was desert, the eye is lulled into submission side of Marfa, a minimalist art epicenter already in Chelsea. We were pointing by the flat, barren landscape. Imagine, founded by Donald Judd. toward something that eventually would then, seeing an otherworldly glowing Elmgreen and Dragset are known for happen,” Dragset said, referring to the green light emanating from a large struc- raising political and socioeconomic mass migration of the art world to ture in the distance. issues in their work, which also explores Chelsea. “Art and the fashion business go “Prada Marfa,” an art installation in the west An alien spaceship? No, but some- alienation, exclusion and sexuality. hand-in-hand with the gentrification Texas desert by Elmgreen and Dragset. thing almost as strange: a Prada store. “There is a trompe l’oeil effect in their process. The artists often come first and the only products actually in the fake store. Rather than a real Prada store work,” said Eric Sklar, director of the then the designers.” Yvonne Force Villareal, founder of the (there’s little market for stilettos in this Tanya Bonakdar Gallery in Chelsea. But of all the luxury brands, why Art Production Fund, said, “It’s wonder- rocky terrain), it’s actually a sculpture by “Often there’s something that’s dysfunc- choose Prada? Dragset cited “a moment ful that Miuccia Prada could rise above Berlin-based artists Michael Elmgreen tional. How the public interacts with when every gallerist and important per- any critical stance this piece can take. It’s and Ingar Dragset, called “Prada Marfa.” them is a very interesting aspect of the son had to wear Prada. It became a uni- not an antifashion piece. It deals with ele- “Prada Marfa,” which was unveiled work. The audience is always a very form. We were also fascinated by the fact ments of minimalism. It’s using fashion to Saturday, will remain in the desert as a active participant.” that Prada has some involvement with also talk about art and how culture can be permanent installation, where it will be Elmgreen and Dragset have collabo- art through its foundation in Milan.” bought in many ways.” weathered by the elements. “The main- rated on a variety of installations and The artists even contacted Germano She said Prada comes off well in the tenance will be limited,” said Dragset. performance pieces since 1995, including Celant, director of Fondazione Prada, who piece and gets its name splashed on a “It will be like a little time capsule. It a show at the 2003 Venice Biennale that showed their proposal to Miuccia Prada. piece of art. “They look pretty good will probably go in and out of fashion. It starred a chimp trying to spell “Utopia” “She was very positive from the begin- because they allowed the artists to use will decay. Some of the things we cherish with large dice, and an installation at the ning,” Dragset said. “They’ve been very the logo,” Force Villareal said. “It’s very now won’t be the same in the future. Tate Modern featuring an animatronic kind. They gave us color codes and smart of them. They see beyond just the Here, nature is taking over slowly.” sparrow in the throes of death. Miuccia selected 20 pairs of shoes herself fashion industry. Prada is a company that “Prada Marfa” was produced by the The idea for “Prada Marfa” grew out of from the 2005 autumn collection.” The understands art at a very high level.” Art Production Fund here, and Ballroom an earlier installation. It began in 2001, footwear, along with a few handbags, are — Sharon Edelson WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 25

Senior Production Manager MOVERS/SHAKERS Responsibilities include managing pre-production in NY with Sales Pro - Est’d NY importer of design group. Manage pre-production staff as well as the costume jewelry/access seeks exp’d BRA DESIGNER self-starter w/proven following to sell initial costing of the line. Must have min. 5 yrs. solid volume retailers, catalogs, premium production exp as well as understanding of calendar. Wacoal America, Inc., the accounts nationally. Base + comm + MANAGER, RETAIL OPERATIONS leading bra manufacturer benefits. Email: shapp2@aol.com Product Tech Development Coord in the U.S. is looking to At Cole Hann, we bring emotionally enticing luxury products Knits and Wovens (contemporary) add a Bra Designer totheir to consumers across the globe. We have an immediate Responsible for interfacing w/ design to build product for staff at their midtown loca- opening for a Manager of Retail Operations. contemporary line. Working skills for SWB based PDM. Must tion. Candidates must have This role will manage the operational function within the re- have basic construction understanding for wovens including at least 5 yrs of bra design tail field including the development of operational store denim fabric & trim identification knowledge w/min 3 yrs experience-Asian exp. is a budgets, maintaining vendor relations, developing business exp. in contemporary product development. Some domestic plus. Compensation to com- reports for the intranet, coordinating opening functions for and international travel. mensurate with experience. new stores, and partnering with business and functional Excellent benefits! Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. departments on projects and daily operations. Design Director Please send resumes No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Director must be able to identify & interpret emerging trends, w/salary requirements to: Call CLOTHES-OUT: Qualifications: create original design concepts that meet merchandisers (937) 898-2975 [email protected] 6-8 years job related experience within the retail field and/or assortment plan as well as retailers expectations. Must be Fax: 201-635-0208 retail operations environment. Ideal candidate will be highly organized & detail oriented. Min. 8-10 yrs. related exp Mail: Wacoal America, Inc. creative, innovative and think outside the box. Intermediate/ w/ min 3 yrs. exp in Women’s Contemporary market. One Wacoal Plaza Advanced PC skills required: Word, Excel, Access experience. Excellent benefits offered. Lyndhurst, NJ 07071. Intellectual Agility/Analytical Thinking/Problem Solving a plus. To Apply pls email resume w/sal req to: Attn: HR [email protected] attn: Natalia To apply please fax or email resume to: No Phone Calls Please. 212-515-1626/[email protected], subject line reading Manager, Tech/Quality Graphic Artist Great opportunity! Leading women’s We are an Equal Opportunity Employer. M/F/D/V and men’s intimate apparel company seeks dynamic experienced Graphic Artist for its Character Licensing Division. Candidate must have strong EXCELLENT OPPORTUNITY illustration skills and thorough knowledge of Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop. Must be able to work ROYALTY ACCOUNTANT independently and handle deadlines. Previous character license experience A mid-town leader in the Accessories industry is seeking a must. Men’s experience a plus. E-mail a royalty/licensing accountant. 3 years royalty & detailed resume to [email protected] or fax reporting preparation a must. To assist CFO & Controller 212.842.4030. EOE. with analysis, reconciliations. Detail oriented self-starter. INTIMATES DESIGNER $75-85K For Space in Garment Center Please email resume w/salary requirements: Growing importer of jr intimates seeks exp Helmsley-Spear, Inc. [email protected] creative designer. Mh Photoshop/Illustrator 212-880-0414 Exp w/JCP account a MUST. [email protected] / Search For Space In Garment Center ACCOUNTING - NY, NY - Garment CAD DESIGNER Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee Apparel importer & distributor from Kearny, NJ Ladies sportswear mfr Merchandiser/Sales www.midcomre.com Indian sources seeks Int’l Financial seeks entry level Cad Designer using P/T: Bright, energetic person to mer- Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Accountant to project cash flow; imple- Illustrator & Photoshop. Responsible chandise and sell eyewear in top NYC ment cost saving initiatives; liaise w/ for flat sketches, illustrating garment dept store; manage in-house accts in Asia/So. Asia vendor/supplier base & corrections, sewing instructions and showroom. 20 hr/wk. Email resume to: Showrooms & Lofts U.S. shareholders, tech consultants, details into a PDM system. Must be [email protected] BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS attys, & bankers to help perform due detail oriented. Friendly work environ. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail diligence & valuation analysis for int’l Work with patternmaker & spec. tech. Designer Designer ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 L/C, factoring, P/O funding & multi- Fax / email resume: 201-246-8922 currency exch rate structuring; research [email protected] Associate Designer LEAD DESIGNER West 34th Street Office Space Major apparel company seeks Associate Major apparel company seeks Lead and analyze product & material cost/ 4,500 sq ft Showroom/School differentials. REQ: 6 yrs exp in Acctg CAD Design MGR $100-120K. Current Designer with min. 3 years experience Designer with experience in trendy, Finance w/ at least 2 yrs exp in int’l exp. in surface design. Prints & yarn in infant/toddler girls. Individual should junior line. Position will target Wal-Mart OFFICE MANAGER / Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 dyes. Follow-up on strike-offs. Supervise be able to work within design room/ customers. Excellent salary & benefits. EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT www.dumann.com apparel acctg. In lieu of 4 yrs exp, B.S. in Acctg or Finance is acceptable. 40 2. Womenswear or kidswear exp ok. sample room environment. Must have Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 Tse, an int’l luxury brand seeks an hr/wk, 9am-5pm, M-F. Send resume to: U4ia, Illustrator, Photoshop. 34th St. knowledge Illustrator and Photoshop. office manager w/ 5+ yrs exp. Position Ani Industries, 1407 Broadway, @ 7th Ave. Fax 973-379-1275 Jaral Agcy Fax resume 212-239-2766 requires attention to detail, a high level Suite 1411, NY, NY 10018 DESIGNER of interpersonal skills, excellent verbal CHILDREN’S Designer/Associate Men’s apparel company seeks versatile and written communication, as well as, Major apparel company seeks men’s wear designer with experience the ability to multitask. Proficiency in COMPUTER Designer/Associate with minimum 3 in sportswear, especially athletic Microsoft Word, Excel and PowerPoint APPAREL STAFFING LTD. years experience. Individual should apparel, to design hot national brand. neccessary. Good working environment Showrooms - 5th Ave + Soho to 57th St. Designer-Exp w/ Junior Sweaters have strong athletic background and & benefits. Pls fax res: 917-606-6767 Hot Lofts - Wood Fl. + Light ARTIST Urban experience a plus. Experience Designer-Exp. knit & woven tops Wm’s Major Childrenswear Company seeks a be able to work within design with sample making required. Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Production Mgr-Wm’s WR knits/Mass Mkt room/sample room environment. Search- www.manhattanoffices.com talented & experienced Girls Artist to Excellent salary & benefits. Patternmaker tech spec. Asst to $50K. Production Mgr-Wm’s tops/import Exp. work in Illustrator & Photoshop. Must Fax resume 212-239-2766 Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 Min 1 yr. exp in fittings ok. wovens Retail Planner-Mjr service co be able to draw flats, create prints, sportswear. Write cut tickets. Check cut- Sourcing Coord.-Bilingual chinese-Wm’s WR plaids, appliques and embroideries. Designer - Children’s ters must. Prepare patterns for grading. Spec Techn-Childrens WR exp Min 2 yrs. experience in Girls apparel. Large childrenswear co seeks new born, Excel computer exp. Knwldg garment Sr. Tech Designer-Exp w/PDM & Bilingual Need to see a strong portfolio that in- infant, toddler, boys’ Designer. 5+ yrs Designer/Merchandiser construction. Fax 973-379-1275 AGCY Tech Dsgnr/Patternmaker-Childrens WR Exp cludes boards. Good working condi- exp, license and girls exp a plus. Illus- Import jr/missy sweater co seeks indiv Call Alan Wolf tions plus benefits. trator CS a must. Great benefits. Fax w/ sweater tech knowl of yarn/stitches. Phone (212)302-0216 Fax (212)302-1161 Email resumes to: resume to 212-290-2785 Attn: Rachel. Min 5 yrs exp. shopping/traveling/work PLANNER OFFICE SPACE AVAILABLE [email protected] closely w/ accts. Fax res: 212-764-1825. Intimate Apparel mfr seeks hardworking High end women’s co seeks DESIGNER organized individual to asst in planning complementary line to share space. Colorist to $60K - $70K. Current exp and production coordinating. Position ARTIST-GRAPHIC-GIRLSW’R OPEN $ in womenswear or menswear OK. Est’d NYC sportswear & dress co seeks 501 building, window facing 7th ave. acreative, detail oriented indiv w/ min DESIGNERS WANTED requires strong follow up skills, attn to Showroom optional. Call 212-719-9127 Est’d impt’r seeks talented individual Strong in lab dips, follow-up. Midtown detail, preparation of weekly sales for girls 2 - 16 DISNEY product large company. Fax: 973-379-1275 Agency. 3 yrs exp. Shopping, traveling, sketch- ing. Salary open. Fax res: 516-677-0018 Associate/Assistant reports, ability to analyze forecast and A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. Well estbd. northern NJ based children’s plan production. Applicants must have 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 CUTTERS DESIGNER co. specializing in infant wear for better strong financial analysis skills. Must Minimum 5 years exp. in womens mkt, seeking talented, creative, detail be proficient in Excel. Wal-Mart experience couture and eveningwear. Sample and *Excellent Opportunity* oriented professionals to join our team. is a +. Fax resumes to (646)277-7482. productions. Please call: 212-764 0840 Excellent opportunity to design for a Min 2-3 yrs related exp. Knowledge of Bookkeeper Immed rapidly growing NY based Luxury Photoshop & Illustrator a must. Pls fax Prod. Coord to $55K. Current exp in Immed Hires DESIGN ASSOCIATE Home Accessories Co, KIM SEYBERT! or e-mail res. to Attn: CW at 201-327-2969 follow-up, scheduling of prod. from Far A/R, A/P, Payroll, etc... We are seeking a creative, talented & [email protected] East. Bi-ling. Chinese req’d + strong [email protected] Updated Moderate Blouses highly motivated apparel or accessory knowledge of fabrics + construction of Great opportunity for an experienced, designer who thrives in a fast paced, garments. Fax 973-379-1275 Jaral Agency organized person with creative and hardworking environ. Candidate must Designer technical background. Should have a be organized, computer literate & have VIVIENNE TAM Product Development Immed PATTERN/SAMPLES Buyer/Merchandiser/Sales trendy eye and good color sense and exp. working w/ overseas factories on Handbags familiar with all aspects of Product all phases of devel. from artwork, DESIGNER Better Goods Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Upscale Specialty Department store Development. Duties will include Lester’s of Brooklyn seeks children’s sampling, specs & approvals to follow Seeking candidate with min 8 yrs exp. Full Cycle of Product work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Preparing Technical packages w/ up. Perfect candidate will have impec- [email protected] fashion clothing Buyer with minimum Detailed flat sketching and specs. in women’s Designer/ Contemp. Mar- 4 years experience in the European + cable taste & exp working w/ Hi End ket. Must have strong background in Patterns/Samples/Beading Communication & follow up w/ overseas Majors & specialty stores. Some exp. domestic markets. Must have excellent Factories, Analyze L/dips and S/ offs, wovens and knits & possess excellent communication skills, well versed in in embroidery design, Photoshop, and communications skills. Fax resume PRODUCTION ASSISTANCE Duplicates Cut & Sew Maintain all Designer files. Proficient CAD would be helpful. Fast & Full Service- Production open to buy planning and inventory w/c letter (212) 840-9660 Sweater co. seeks responsible individual, in Word, Excel, Illustrator and must be detail oriented and have Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 management. Excellent salary, benefits Photoshop. Great benefits. We offer the same highly competitive & incentive program. References Req’d. compensation and benefit package as good communication skills. Please fax Fax 212- 719-0009 or Email resume/required salary to 212-302 6527 Please fax resume (718) 627-3974 or [email protected] amajor apparel firm, but in the friendly Designer PATTERNS, SAMPLES, E-mail Barry: [email protected] environ. of the home accessories world. VIVIENNE TAM PRODUCTIONS DESIGNER ...... $8OK Qualified candidates, please email or Newborn,Infant Toddler Better Production Assistant All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. fax your resume & salary requirements SHOES /BAGS Follow up order details from placement Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 to: [email protected] or 212 695 8803 [email protected] DESIGNER until shipment. Including handling of all CAD ARTIST shipping documents. Able to understand Long Island based Mens Sweater / Designer Head 125-150K. Current exp With 5 yrs exp. in Designer/Contemp. in tween 6-17 girls sportswear + garment size specs. (Excel, Word). PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Sportswear Co. seeks a F/T or P/T Cad Designer - Accessories Market. Must possess strong Technical Knowledge of Walmart procedures. Artist. Must be detail-oriented, self- Long Island based company seeks denim. Popular priced licensed &Communications skills. Fax resume PRODUCTIONS market. Fax 973-379-1275 AGENCY Please fax resume 212-268-8232 starter, able to meet deadline and have freelance accessories designer. Profi- to: (212) 840-9660 or email [email protected] Full servcie shop to the trade. a good eye for design/color. Must be cient with Illustrator Photoshop. Must Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Designer Immed proficient in PhotoShop. Garment con- be able to do line sheets and produc- Design Director struction a plus. Prepare presentation tion ready Tech Packages. Contact $100++ Factory MGR to $100K Current exp PRODUCTION ASST...... $35-42K PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD layout and line list, logo & package Vivian Roberts @ 631-673-1084 ext 242 Accessories managing factory of men’s or women’s Follow-up Trim / Samples Imports High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- design. Create flats and spec sketch. or Fax Resume: 631-673-6744 Att: Vivian Name Firm woven shirts/ blouses. Supv. 250 in N. Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Fax resume: 516-621-2251. Attn: Mel [email protected] E. PA area. Will relo. Fax 973-379-1275 [email protected] 26 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005

Jr. Account Executive Director of Human Resources At Cole Haan, we bring emotionally enticing, luxury products to consumers across the globe. We have an immediate Danskin, Inc., well estb’d opening for a Director of Human Resources to lead our branded active apparel co strategic HR agenda across our wholesale and retail has an immediate opening for segments of the business. Based in NYC, this position will entry level Account Executive report to the Chief Human Resources Officer, and will to assist with managing manage a team of HR professionals. Focus areas include accounts nationwide. Strong organization development, succession planning, performance retail math & planning management, employee relations, change management, skills, ability to analyze are staffing, executive coaching/ counseling, etc. essential. Sales & experience 10+ years in HR, including HR generalist management experi- working w/Sears is preferred. ence, outstanding leadership and influencing skills, and an Based in NY, some travel. ability to relate to all levels of employees. Qualified candi- Competitive compensation & dates should send a resume with salary requirements in benefits pckg. EOE/M/F/D/V Microsoft Word format to: [email protected] . Please email or fax res: Please include "HRD" in the subject line. [email protected] We are a Equal Employment Opportunity Employer. M/F/D/V F: (212) 930-9103 Production Coordinator SAMPLEMAKER KNITWEAR Experienced in designer /couture Leading private label mfr. seeks exp’d evening-wear. Chiffon & delicate fab- prod’n person w/ strong communication rics. Please call 212-764 -0840 skills to work with design & overseas factories. Must be detail oriented, self motivated, organized & multi-tasked. Please fax resume to: (212) 981-1790 SPEC TECHNICIAN Major apparel company seeks Spec SALES-JEWELRY Technician w/children’s wear experience. PRODUCTION Ideal candidate will have knowledge of Prestige costume jewelry co. Growing Childrenswear Co., in business garment construction, technical design seeking an experienced 75 yrs. seeks energetic staffer for Prod’n. and pattern making background. Excel and pattern correction sketching skills individual for showroom sales Dept. Must have strong experience in &toassist sales management. garment construction, patternmaking, necessary. Position requires daily grading, developing spec pack, and communication with overseas contacts. Candidate must possess scheduling. Will track & approve sam- Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 good selling & presentation ples, monitor Q/C, and work with key skills, as well as interpersonal retailers such as Wal-Mart & Target. Tech Designer to $75K. Current exp Terrific opportunity to learn & grow in menswear req’d. Excel proficient. skills, be organized and be with a wide variety of responsibilities. Midtown large company. Fax: 973-379- proficient in Excel & Word. Candidates must have impeccable accu- 1275 Jaral Fashion Agency. Midtown showroom. racy, persistent follow-up skills, and computer literacy (including Illustrator/ Resumes to Photoshop). Swimwear or stretch fabric TECHNICAL DESIGNER [email protected] experience a plus. Please send cover letter/resume/salary history to Mr. Lee: FOR CANDLESTICKS, INC. INTIMATE APPAREL 112 W. 34th St., Ste. 911, N.Y., NY 10120 Seeking very experienced technical E-mail: [email protected] designer in intimate apparel. Must have experience. Production Sourcing MGR $120-150K Looking to hire ASAP. Current exp in girls infant to 16 knits Please fax resume to: 212 221-1278. and wovens. Strong relationships w ith Womens Division factories WW that produces kidswear. We are a very successful Strong in sourcing, follow-up, admin. Technical knowledge of construction and exciting jean company, of garments. Fax: 973-379-1275 AGCY and we are looking for a Technical Designer candidate who is full of ener- Theory has an exceptional oppty for a gy, with strong selling skills highly motivated individual in our and has connections with downtown office. Qualified candidates responsible for evaluating and correct- major retailers nationwide. ing the fit of garments on models. This sales position is located Product Manager/ Must be detail oriented, organized in New York. Please fax good communicator, exp w/ overseas & Juvenile Products domestic factories, work independently resume/cover letter to: P. Fast paced Manhattan based baby and handle deadlines. Min 5 yrs in Thornton 213-629-1559. products manufacturer with MAJOR sweater and cut & sew knit of overseas NAME BRAND LICENSE seeking detail- and domestic production. Excellent oriented individual. The ideal candidate compensation & benefit package. Pls will be responsible for monitoring and fax or email resume /salary req: reporting on the developmental plan (212)391-8562 / [email protected] progress of baby accessories and toy products from design to final production, including involvement with all specs, Technical Designer to $70K. Current material, workmanship, packaging & exp. in JR or girls wear knits & MEN’S DIVISION design. Proficiency in Excel and Word a wovens. Excel exp 34th and 7th Ave. must. Should possess great organizational FAX 973-379-1275 AGCY We are a very successful skills and the ability to multi-task. Strong and exciting jean company, written and verbal communications essential. and we are looking for a Please email all resumes to: Technical Immed [email protected]. Designer candidate who is full of ener- Sleepwear Preferred gy, with strong selling skills [email protected] and has connections with PROJECT MANAGER, NYC major retailers nationwide. Looking for a creative and resourceful Tech Spec to $45K. Min 1 year exp in person to work with our busy sales team infants, newborn, or toddler. Knits + This sales position is located in the following areas: Product Develop- wovens. Knowledge of construction of gar- in New York. Please fax ment, Factory Sourcing, Order Manage- ments. Mdtn Co. Fax: 973-379-1275 Agcy resume/cover letter to: P. ment and Trend Research. If you thrive on handling multiple projects, have Thornton 213-629-1559. strong communication skills, and a "can-do" attitude, then please visit our website careers section to apply online at: WWW.MACHER.COM Website Manager RETAIL FASHION High-profile jewelry company seeks District Mgr/Hi- Fashion $80K motivated individual to run its website, Store Mgrs /NYC&Westchr/French $70K meandrojewelry.com. Responsibilities Asst Controller/Retail exp $60K include merchandising, sales analysis Contemporary brand expanding Sales Assocs/Madison Av $35K +% and customer service. Ideal candidate its product lines seeks experienced FAX: 212-481-4086 [email protected] will be detail oriented with excellent motivated team players for oral and written communication skills the following position: and have experience with Excel. Prior Retail experience in retail website manage- SALES ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE OPERATIONS MANAGER ment a must. Fax or email resume to: LOS ANGELES & NEW YORK 212-431-8650, Attn: HR or Must be a dynamic energetic & dedicated Looking for a career change? More [email protected] regular hours, better working sales professional with experience and conditions with one of the most stable, relationships with A+ retailers. Provides growing companies in the apparel customer assistance in selecting and industry? We need someone with purchasing merchandise. Furnishes experience in expense management, information to customers about goods maintenance of physical plant, renova- for sale. Suggest other merchandise to tions, security, IS and training to be fit customer requirements. operationally responsible for our NY operation. Located in the garment dis- Please submit your resume trict in Manhattan. Bachelor’s degree & salary history to: in business with a min. of 5 years [email protected] experience as an operations manager or Fax: (310) 945-5253 in a mid to large dept. store unit. Fax resume with salary history to 212-868-7935, Attn: B.C. EOE Sales Assistant Tomkat Couture has an exciting oppty for a motivated indiv to assist a sr sales Excellent Oppty’s NY & LA exec of a well est jr activewear co. Excellent growth potential, client con- Showroom Sales Exec. tact, schedule appts, assist w/ presenta- Well established large company. Seeking tions, strong comm skills, admin duties, Showroom Sales Pro’s for Jr’s, Men’s, excellent benefits, great oppty. 40K+. Intimate Apparel & Sportswear. Fun E-mail resume: [email protected] young environment oppty’s for growth. Salary based on experience. Sales Rep - Children’s Also looking for Independent Experienced children’s wear sales rep wanted. High commission. Reps Nationwide Fax resume to 212-613-8608 or email Fax or email resumes: 212-719-0297 [email protected] for details. [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2005 27

Sales Key Account Exec. $150K++. Cur- Fashion Jewelry Sales rent exp in womens wool, rain, outerwear, Stephan & Co. SWEATERS (2) SALES EXECUTIVES +leather req’d. Strong relationships with Sales Associate Manufacturer of women’s handloomed Better trend jewelry company Sales Account Executive - sporting goods stores such as REI, Leading fashion Jewelry Company sweaters is in need of Sales Reps in seeks the best of the best! Gaylans, Dicks etc. Exp in store plans.Fax seeks salesperson to maintain & expand the L.A. and Atlanta areas. Price point Fast paced, creative self starters needed. All Territories 973-379-1275 Jaral Fashion Agency Work w/ specialty & department stores on our existing client base. A min of 3 is from $60.00 - $150.00. Fax or E-mail to: Sr. Executive, minimum 3 yrs sales exp. yrs in fashion jewelry amust.Theabili- 718-803-1316 / [email protected] Jr. Executive, minimum 1 yr. sales exp. for women’s contemporary sportswear. ty to multitask, be highly organized and Must have est’d contacts in the industry Must have min 3-4 yrs directly related have great communication skills is w/ dept, chain & catalog buyers. Product exp. w/solid relationships in contempo- essential. Must be proficient in MS development exp. a plus for our private rary market. Should possess excellent Word, Photoshop and Excel. Great label division. Extremely generous communication and analytical skills. benefits. Please E-mail resume to: compensation & benefits. Pleasant Excellent benefits offered. [email protected] work environment. Pls. e-mail resume Pls email resume/sal req to: Sales Manager & salary req’s to: [email protected] [email protected] Attn: Natalia High-end designer jewelry company seeks motivated Sales Manager with at Sales Assistant-Jewelry least 5 years experience in luxury Prestige costume jewelry company jewelry/accessories market to manage Fashion Sales Rep seeking an experienced individual for ateam of 4 Account Executives. Ideal showroom sales and to assist sales candidate will be detail oriented with KULU, an established Australian New clothing company seeks Rep for management. Candidate must possess excellent oral & written communication ladies junior contemporary swimwear TOP SALES EXECUTIVE launch into retail. Related experience good selling and presentation skills, as skills Management experience required. brand requires sales reps in select Accessories: Outstanding leader, 20 yrs. ok. E-mail resume to: [email protected] well as interpersonal skills, be Excellent salary and benefits. exp, solid connections w/ majors. looking organized and be proficient in Excel Email: [email protected] or territories. We are looking for professio- for serious oppty. Call Jordan 609-519-1399 and Word. Midtown showroom. Fax: 212-431-8650, Attn: HR nal, aggressive sales reps w/ 3 plus Resumes to [email protected] yrs experience, strong contacts w/ Men’s & Jr. Denim Salesperson majors and specialty stores a must. Est’d. contemporary fashion clothing co. California, Florida, New York seeks motivated, energetic Salesperson SALES DIRECTOR PEOPLE FOR PEACE for Men’s & Jr. Denim Division. Must Texas, Hawaii possess existing accounts and a proven Excellent Opportunity We are a hot new denim line looking Retail Sales Well est’d NYC based better women’s for an energetic, fast paced, and highly High-end Jewelry Retailer in Nolita Fax/Email resume to: Steve JR sales record with major Dept. Stores. sportswear mfr seeks a Sales Director w/ E-mail resume: [email protected] motivated entry level sales person to seeking full-time sales associate. Must 514-276-5456 [email protected] sportswear & private label exp. w/ est’d clutivate new accounts. This is an excit- be punctual, outgoing, organized, and customer base. Will manage Nationwide ing opportunity to build a career with a have 5 years experience in luxury Sales Team. Great growth oppty ’s.Please dynamic, fast growing company. This Retail Sales. Strong Customer Service National Sales Manager fax or email resume & salary req’s to: sales position is located in New York. skills and weekend availability a must. J&Company seeks a 5+ years experi- F: 212-868-8189 E: [email protected] Please fax resume w/cover letter to: P. Jewelry sales experience a plus. enced National Sales Manager who will Thornton 213-629-1559. Sales Director Email: [email protected] be working with sales offices and man- Fax: 212-431-8650 aging overall sales activities. Must have VIVIENNE TAM strong relationships with department Sales Pro stores nationwide. Candidate will have SALES DIRECTOR Updated missy sptsw co. seeks exp’d experience in premium denim. Based Seeking a candidate w/ min. 8 yrs sales person to Maintain & grow busi- Est’d screen print T-shirt co. seeking out of L.A. Travel is a must. Please visit: Designer/Contemp market expr. Must ness, aggressive & energetic w/ability representation for most territories. Must www.jandcompany.com have solid Dept Store mgmt contacts & to cultivate new accounts. have a following in the Sport fishing Fax or E-mail resume to: strong planning/ analytical skills. Fax Fax resume: 212-391-1530 industry. Fax resume: (256) 378-3418 323-881-3218 / [email protected] resume w/ cover letter: 212-398-9695 email: [email protected] Marathon Apparel Did you get the SCOOP? 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