Best Reviewed this Year BY LAUREN BUZZEO PHOTO JON VAN GORDER

f scanning our dynamic list of the top brews of 2010 tells you anything, it’s that the domestic craft movement is in full swing. The majority of beers submitted in 2010 were domestic selections, with a handful of European and South American samples. As a result, you’ll see the majority of the top 25 hailing from the States. This doesn’t mean that there aren’t fabulous beers from around the world, or that these 25 are the best brews out there; it’s just an indication of the geographic distribution of beers reviewed this year. Within the limits of what was tasted over the past year, we’ve tried to include beers that not only represent different countries and regions, but also a variety of styles. We had some killer categories this year (, IPA, Barleywine, just to name a few) that racked up some truly outstanding scores, but not all of those top-scoring beers will appear in this list in the interest of fairly repre- senting the diversity that exists in the beer world today. We also went beyond simple evaluation of numeric scores and pricing and also considered availability, buzz and balance. This year’s number one beer is a perfect example, combining high quality (96 points) with reasonable price and avail- ability ($8/750 ml, available year round). Adding to its intrigue is the producer—a respected and established Belgian-style-focused brewery that Ihas put their own spin on classic styles while pushing the boundaries of traditional techniques. Hoist your steins and turn the page to discover the best that this year’s reviews had to offer. Prost!

WineMag.com | 61 syrup, milk chocolate and spiced soft caramel flood the palate with a touch of ripe white cran- 1 squares. The mouth is big, full and roasty with a berry lingering through the long finish. Refresh- ton of rich malt and biscuit flavors followed by a ing, vibrant and beautifully balanced. touch of hop bitterness coming through on the finish. Very tasty and attractive, with the playful balance of the roasted malt flavors and vibrant 5 hop citrus and astringency keeping things lively Southern Tier Mokah Imperial and interesting. Tons of roasted arabica beans 96 (American Double/Imperial Stout; and fudgy brownie unfold on the long finish. Southern Tier , NY); 11.0% abv, $10/22 oz. So enticing and delicious, you could just stick your nose in a glass of this for hours 3 with a silly grin on your face the whole time. Intense mocha aromas coupled with chocolate ice cream, soft molasses and French toast transi- tion to more of the same in the mouth, which is so insanely creamy and fulfilling like carbonated Yoo-hoo. Roasted cocoa nibs, espresso and Kahlúa flavors add complexity. The finish is end- Allagash Black (Belgian Style less with a touch of woody bitterness and a slight 96 Stout; Allagash Brewing, ME); resiny texture. Best Buy. 7.5% abv, $8/750 ml. Dark mahogany color in the glass with glimmers of garnet when held up to the light. Pours with a fluffy cream-colored Uinta Brewing Uinta Cockeyed 6 head that lingers and leaves gorgeous sticky 96 Cooper Bourbon Barrel Barley Victory Prima Pils (German lacing behind when it finally falls. Cigar box, Wine Ale (Oak Aged American Barley- 94 Pilsener; Victory Brewing Com- roasted malt, molasses, pine tar, clove, nutmeg wine; Uinta Brewing, UT); 11.1% abv, pany, PA); 5.3% abv, $10/6 pack. One of and sweet spice flood the nose and palate. The $13/750 ml. This is part of Uinta’s Crooked America’s most cherished and sought-after mouth is medium weight, not too overpowering, Line, and will certainly leave you a bit twisted. , this is a terrific example of an American with a strong wave of flavors following each swal- The problem is, this beer is so well balanced and pils that’s sure to please. The are big and low. Rich, roasty and immensely satisfying; also easy to drink that you might do just that without floral on the nose, with more biscuity malt in the surprisingly easy to drink. Best Buy. even realizing. Dark mahogany in color with mouth playing alongside the notes of fresh citrus. caramel and dried fruit aromas along with notes Full and creamy with moderate carbonation and of floral hops, toasted malts and sweet wood low alcohol, a soft bitterness follows through the 2 laced with vanilla. It’s surprisingly lively in the long finish and closes on a sweet hop-oil note. An mouth with medium carbonation lifting the excellent companion to food, though certainly caramel malt and roasted, nutty flavors. The enjoyable all on its own as well. sweet oak and Bourbon spice really shine through on the finish, lingering endlessly. 7 Ayinger Ur-Weisse Authentic 4 93 Bavarian Dunkel Weizen (Dunkel- Russian River Temptation Blonde weizen; Brauerei Aying, Germany); 96 Ale Aged in Oak Barrels (Ameri- 5.8%, $4/500 ml. A hazy, watered-down cof- can Wild Ale; Russian River Brewing Co, fee with cream color in the glass and a huge CA); 7.25% abv, $12/375 ml. A Belgian- fluffy head that lingers. Strong, raw-dough, style Blonde Ale aged in French Chardonnay yeasty aromas and fresh banana mingle with Deschutes Hop in the Dark Cas- barrels with Brettanomyces for 12 months. clove and a hint of caramel sauce in the nose. 94 cadian Dark Ale (American-Style Slightly hazy gold color with a pillowy white head Full bodied and highly carbonated with the same India Black Ale; Deschutes Brewery, OR); and good retention. Wild citrus and hay notes aromas carrying through to the palate with 6.5%, $5/22 oz. Pours a dense near-black dominate the bouquet with accents of barnyard banana peel and bubble gum on the end. The color with a little transparency around the edges and sour green grape. The mouth is full and lingering finish is reminiscent of baked apples and a chocolate-colored head. The nose is loaded creamy but acidic and lively, like a fine Cham- with brown sugar and a rich, malty sweetness. with pine-resin hops along with notes of maple pagne. Tart citrus and green gooseberry flavors Flavorful, well-balanced and easy to enjoy.

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2010 campfire with nuances of sweet spice and burnt would think that this is going to be a beast of an 8 coffee as well. And the mouth…wow. This is a big IPA. But, despite the looming threat of extreme Avery duganA IPA (American Dou- beer, with not only a ton of maple-syrup glazed hops, it’s remarkably well balanced and drinkable. 93 ble/Imperial IPA; Avery Brewing, bacon smokiness but also a good dose of astrin- The nose is fresh and vibrant with intense floral CO); 8.5% abv, $7/22 oz. You’re fairly warned gency to the milky mouth. Charcoal, roasted cocoa notes and beautiful ruby red grapefruit. The on this one, with the label reading, “Lupulin Rap- nibs, wheat bread and hints of cassis and caramel medium-full mouth shows moderate hop bitter- ture Incarnate! As fervent devotees of hops, we sauce all integrate beautifully with the smoke. ness balanced by a nice caramel-malt sweetness. found ourselves on a quest to create a transcen- What an excellent example of a properly smoked Well-integrated with flavors of fresh lemon slices dental IPA capable of quenching our voracious and balanced brew. and tangerine oil on the finish. lupulin desire.” Strong aromas of pine, grapefruit and pineapple citrus abound, followed by a hint of tropical stone fruit on deep inhalation. The mouth- 11 14 feel is full and slightly oily, and the flavors loaded The Angel’s Share Ale Smuttynose Big Beer Series Scotch with hop resin and pine sap. Even though it’s 95 (Oak Aged English Barleywine; 92 Ale (Scotch Ale; Smuttynose Brew- plenty bitter at 93 IBUs, there’s a good malt back- Port Brewing Company, CA); 12.5% abv, ing, NH); 7.11% abv, $7/22 oz. Pours a deep bone supporting the intense hop bitterness. $15/375 ml. A gorgeous beer, but definitely a mahogany color with a fleeting tan head. Earthy sipper that’s deserving of some time in the cellar. smoke aromas, presumably derived from the peat- Caramel, vanilla, Bourbon-infused oak, chocolate smoked malt, immediately waft out of the glass. 9 liqueur and boozy licorice all attack your tastebuds They’re then supported by strong bready malt, figs, Stone Imperial Russian Stout (Russ- and beat them into submission. Big and strong in caramel-drizzled bread pudding and a touch of 95 ian Imperial Stout; Stone Brewing, the mouth with heavy anise and dark roasted cof- licorice. Strong carbonation in the mouth livens CA); 10.5% abv, $7/22 oz. Pours thick and fee character accented by cigar tobacco, scorched up the intense profile. More toasty malt, cherry seriously dark with Sumatra coffee aromas coupled caramel, s’more, molasses and raisin flavors. Thick, skins, raisin and orange oil support the intensity. with hop oils, dried dark fruit, clove and anise. Big with low carbonation, this is not a traditional Moderately high but well balanced alcohol, with a and round in the mouth with seriously resiny hop Barleywine—but it isn’t unbalanced; it’s just ridicu- silky mouthfeel and a dry, lingering finish. A very flavors and a definite alcohol bite, it has full weight lously decadent with a long boozy finish. Cellar drinkable Scotch Ale. with medium carbonation and great intensity. Selection. Strong espresso and unsweetened cocoa dominate the finish, with a glimmer of sweet citrus rind 15 shining through on the very end. A great candi- 12 Full Sail Top Sail Bourbon Barrel date to cellar. Best Buy. Samuel Smith’s Yorkshire Stingo 93 Aged Porter (American Porter; Full 93 (English Strong Ale; Samuel Smith Sail Brewing Co, OR); 9.85% abv, $10/22 Old Brewery, England); 8.0% abv, $13/550 oz. Part of the Brewmaster Reserve line of beers 10 ml. Aged in old cask-conditioned ale barrels for from Full Sail. Aged for about 10 months in Bour- over one year after fermentation in Yorkshire bon casks, there’s no shortage of aromas or flavors Squares, this beer has a subtle complexity for a less here with loads of dark chocolate, Bourbon, oak over-the-top woodiness and refined character than and vanilla in the nose and mouth. Deep black in other oak-aged brews. The aromas are typical for color with a roasted malt backbone and a glimmer an English old ale—sweet dark fruit, brown bread, of hop astringency on the back to keep it all bal- caramel and oak—and the flavors are similarly anced and the richness in check. The finish is end- intense, with additional notes of dried dates, raisins less and the beer is quite drinkable despite the and toffee. Medium weight with soft carbonation high abv. but exceptional balance, producing a sweet but not cloying drinking experience. 16 Left Hand Fade to Black Ale Volume Alaskan Brewing 2009 Smoked 1 3 92 1 (Foreign/Export Stout; Left Hand 93 Porter (American Porter; Alaskan Heavy Seas Loose Cannon Hop3 Brewing Company, CO); 8.5% abv, $10/6 Brewing Co, AK); 6.5% abv, $8/22 oz. This 92 Ale (American IPA; Clipper City pack. A very intense nose, loaded with roasted beer is often credited with reviving the interest in Brewing Company, MD); 7.0% abv, $10/12 espresso beans, dark bittersweet chocolate and smoked beers in America, and with one sip you’ll oz 6 pack. With over three pounds of hops per vanilla bean. Just as intense in the mouth with understand why. The alder-smoked malts in this barrel, added at three different times in the brew- strong flavors of licorice, roasted malts and a good opaque, black brew provide intense aromas of ing process (hence the hop to the third), one amount of hop bitterness. The finish is very long

WineMag.com | 63 with a nice evolution, moving from astringent bitterness on the finish. Well integrated and a hop tannins to charred oak to bittersweet choco- more robust offering to pair well with food. 23 late drizzled with molasses. A good one to share, Telegraph White Ale (Witbier; Tele- and certainly only for serious dark-stout lovers. 91 graph Brewing Company, CA); 20 4.5% abv, $8/750 ml. Originally a summer Fuller’s London Pride (English Pale seasonal that’s now offered year-round, though 17 91 Ale; Fuller Smith & Turner PLC, its peak season for enjoyment is still the summer Founders Nemesis Ale 2010 United Kingdom); 4.7% abv, $10/6 pack. months. Cloudy yellow in color with an over-the- 95 (American Barleywine; Founders Slightly hazy copper color with a cream-colored top head that takes its time to subside but leaves Brewing, MI); 12.0% abv, $20/12 oz 4 head that leaves nice lacing. The bouquet is full little lacing. It’s quite fragrant with typical witbier pack. The aromas are rich and roasty as well as of resinous hop notes with a strong backbone of aromas of white florals, chamomile, orange pith, resiny, with burnt caramel, dried fig, anise and toasty, bready malt. Round and satisfying in the soft pear and a touch of coriander. The mouth- clove lifting the dominant booziness; you can tell mouth, starting off with rich piney notes that feel is full and round with similar notes found this is going to be a strong beer. Weighty but transition to fresh vibrant citrus on the finish. on the nose but more flavors of banana peel, bright in the mouth with moderate carbonation The close shows more fruit along with an appro- sweet grass, tart citrus and a kick of white pepper leading into intense burnt notes of toast, graham priate dryness, and the moderate carbonation on the finish. Crisp and refreshing with strong, cracker, brown sugar, dark bittersweet chocolate, and overall rich, roasty character make this a bal- lively carbonation. tobacco and earth. The finish is eternal with a anced and enjoyable brew. strong Sumatra coffee flavor. A very good sipper 24 that should hold nicely. Cellar Selection. 21 Napa Smith Brewery Amber Ale (American Amber/Red Ale; Napa Trumer Pils (German Pilsener; 90 Smith Brewery, CA); 5.75% abv, $4/22 oz. 18 Trumer Brauerei Berkeley, CA); 90 Medium copper in color, with a significant tan- Southampton Keller Pils (Keller 4.8% abv, $9/6 pack. Pours a brilliant golden- colored head that leaves nice flecks of lacing. Bier; Southampton Publick House, straw color with a medium head that leaves a lit- 91 The nose is medium-intense with some hop flo- NY); 5.0% abv, $9/6 pack. This is a new addi- tle lacing behind. The bouquet offers notes of rals shining through among the toasty malt and tion to Southampton that will focus on a single grass, dried hops and a slight metallic skunki- fresh grass aromas. The mouth is smooth and hop variety each release in order to showcase ness. Medium weight and creamy in the mouth, creamy, with malty sweetness and hop bitterness that hop’s specific aroma and flavor profiles. This with a good amount of sweet malty flavors along- dancing on the palate, neither achieving com- year’s hop is the Hallertauer Tradition, a refined side nice notes of peppery spice and orange cit- plete dominance. A grainy fleshiness lingers on hop with delicate aromatics and a fairly assertive rus. The carbonation is assertive but seemingly the dry finish, along with hints of shortbread flavor profile. Light grassy aromas in the bou- fine-grained, and the finish closes dry and cookie crumbs. Love the pairings on the bottle, quet are supported by fresh sweet citrus, dried remarkably clean, leaving you ready for more. including barbecued meats, stews and cheeses. wheat and floral hop notes. The mouth is medium weight with a good amount of hop pres- ence as well as cracker, earthy spice and resin 22 25 v notes. The astringent bitter kick leads all the way BarbaRoja Barrel-Aged Red Ale Zatec Bright Beer (Bohemian- v through the long finish, slowly dissipating. 91 (Barrel-Aged Amber Ale; Bar- 89 Style Pilsener; Zatec atec Brewery, baroja, Argentina); 9.0% abv, $12/750 ml. Czech Republic); 4.6% abv; $4/500 ml. With v 19 A fairly intense and sweet bouquet offers aro- Zatec being the famous Saaz hop growing region mas of raisins, dried dates and apricots, hints of and the label including stickers of the hops, and Widmer Brothers The Original sour cherries and an oak-infused nutty malt the Protected Designation of Origin seal, one 91 Drifter (American Pale Ale; sweetness. Medium-weight and solidly carbon- expects to experience the best the hop has to Widmer Brothers Brewing Company, OR); ated in the mouth, there are full, smoky flavors of offer. Light golden in color with a medium- 5.7% abv, $9/6 pack. Brewed with Summit roasty toasted malts and suggestions of wood white frothy head. The aromas are sweeter than and Nelson hops for a unique citrus flavor and supported by notes of chocolate and burnt one might expect; apricot notes mingle with hop aroma: blood orange, sweet grass and roasted red espresso leading through to the finish. Sweet and oils and caramel malt. The flavors are also apple notes abound in the nose and mouth. dry at the same time, you can barely tell the intense for a pilsener, with a lot of bready, fresh Light weight, with medium carbonation and a alcohol is as high as it is. With so much complex- yeast notes alongside elegant and well-inte- nice balance of rich toasted malt, citrus and a ity and depth of flavors matched by solid carbon- grated Saaz hop notes that offer a plethora of touch of pine resin. The finish is long with dom- ation, this promises to be a terrific food character and complexity: spicy, earthy, floral inating sweet malty notes followed by a kiss of companion. and bitter all at once.

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2010