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The Giant Job of Refrigeration

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The Giant Job of Refrigeration THE GIANT JOB OF REFRIGERATION W. T. PENTZER from Arizona, potatoes from Idaho, meat from Iowa, poultry from Dela- ware, and apples from Washington. Some of these perishable foods travel 2,000 to 3,000 miles to reach the New York market and are a week or more on their journey. This is time enough for the food to spoil from microbial FOOD habits of Americans have action or become overripe and worth- changed greatly since the advent less. Here is where refrigeration plays of refrigeration a little over loo years its role, arresting the processes that ago. We eat more perishable foods the year round, in season and out of season. can lead to deterioration. We can purchase meat, fish, poultry, eggs, milk, ice cream, lettuce, straw- ICE PROVIDED the only practical means of keeping large quantities of perish- berries, citrus fruits, bananas, and apples, to name only a few perishable able foods cool in warm weather until foods, almost any day of the year. The approximately 1880. variety of fresh and frozen foods Today ice is still used in great available today is truly amazing. quantities by the food industry for Less than loo years ago many cooling fish, poultry, dairy products, persons in small cities and villages fruits and vegetables, and beverages. in America kept a milk cow as the only The 1963 production of ice was 20 way to have fresh milk. million tons according to the National Meat came from cattle slaughtered Ice Association. Ice production has locally, driven or shipped to where decreased since World War II, when they were needed. In those days the annual value was $427 million, there were no refrigerated vehicles compared with $210 million in 1963. for shipping dressed carcasses. The The decline has come about because of mainstays in the diet then were bread the replacement of iceboxes in the home and elsewhere with mechanical and cured meats. Development of railroads, water- refrigeration equipment. ways, and roads brought city and The largest use of commercial ice country closer together. Refrigeration production today is for icing railroad made it possible for even perishable cars, trucks, and the fishing fleet. About foods to be shipped long distances. 14.5 million tons were used for these Today, a New York City housewife shopping for food may purchase citrus W. T. Pentzer is Director of the Market fruits that came from Florida or Quality Research Division, Agricultural California, carrots from Texas, lettuce Research Service. 123 purposes in 1963. The remaining 5.5 ICE USED ON BOARD ship must be clean million tons produced were used as and of low bacterial count, which calls cubed or crushed ice by restaurants, for sanitary practices in manufacture, hotels, and by other institutions. handling, and storing. Enough ice must be used to cool the FISH WAS ONE of the first perishable fish to about 32° and keep it cool. Ice foods to benefit from refrigeration. The does something else. As it melts, it captain of a Gloucester, Mass., smack' washes off slime and bacteria, and put ice on board to preserve a catch of prevents undesirable microbiological halibut in 1838. conditions in fish stored in the hold of In 1858 iced containers of fish were the vessel. shipped from New England ports to About I pound of ice is required for New York City. every 2 pounds of fish. Fish was frozen with ice and salt as Depending on the species, fish can be early as 1861. This may have been the kept in ice without spoiling from 2 beginning of the frozen food industry. days to as long as 28 days. Special pans for freezing the fish were developed, and the tightly filled, WHEN BROUGHT ON SHORE, fish are covered pans were packed in a mixture stored in ice in refrigerated rooms not of ice and salt. warmer than 35^, until they can be After freezing, the fish was coated processed or distributed as fresh fish. with ice by dipping it in water. Some ice meltage is desired to keep the Fish frozen in this way was held at fish washed with ice water. Ice is used 20^ F. for 8 to 10 months. The storage to keep the packages of fresh fish rooms were refrigerated with ice and chilled until they are sold. salt, later by mechanical refrigeration. The fishing industry uses a great deal of refrigeration, and a lot of it is PRESENT PRACTICES have been built on in the form of ice. these early techniques. Heaviest usage is by Pacific coast Fish like haddock and cod, caught by fishers and for shrimp. trawl off the New England and Cana- The annual catch of fish and shell- dian Maritime Provinces coasts, are fish by U.S. vessels off our coasts and eviscerated, washed, and iced in pens on the high seas is about 5 billion in the vessel's hold. Other small fish, pounds valued at almost $400 million like ocean perch and whiting, are iced to the fishermen. without eviscerating because of their About half the catch is used for food, small size. and the balance principally for fish Shrimp are harvested by trawl and meal and oil. beheaded, washed, and stored in ice in If ice was used on board vessel at the the holds. ratio of I pound per 2 pounds of fish, Fish of the Pacific Northwest, like the 2.6 billion pounds of food fish halibut and sable, are eviscerated, would have required 650,000 tons of ice. washed, and iced in the vessel's pens. Pacific salmon, caught by seines for Loss OF ICE from melting on board the use in canneries, have recently been vessel before use, and other refrigera- stored whole aboard the vessel in hold tion required would increase the re- tanks containing sea water refrigerated frigeration to perhaps i million tons. to about 30° F. Another 400,000 tons of ice would be Tuna caught offshore are usually needed during distribution. frozen at sea. Those caught inshore are The refrigeration for food fish would often iced in the round (not evis- then total approximately 1.4 million cerated) on the vessel. Many of the tons of ice. (A ton of refrigeration rep- small inshore tuna boats make use of resents the cooling obtained from melt- refrigerated holding coils to reduce ing a ton of ice and is equal to 288 the ice losses during long trips. thousand British thermal units.) 124 To freeze fish on board ship, as in The Davis Refrigerator Gar was the tuna fleet, about 44,500 tons of re- patented in 1868 and 1869. It was frigeration would be needed. To sup- cooled by ice and salt in tanks which ply refrigeration to the holds of the could be refilled from the roof. It albacore fleet would require i ,500 tons. became one of the most widely used To cool precooked tuna prior to cars of the early days. Successful ship- cleaning and packing canned tuna ment of fresh meats from Chicago to would require more than 600,000 tons Boston in 1869 ^^ the Davis car of refrigeration. inaugurated the dressed beef industry. About 285 million pounds of fish, The Michigan Central Railroad crab, and shrimp are frozen annually, experimented in the early i860's in requiring approximately 145,000 tons transporting fresh meat from Chicago of refrigeration. to the East, using boxcars with ice bins Without counting refrigeration re- built above the floor at each end. quired to store the frozen product, an estimate can be made that the fishing EXPERIMENTATION with refrigerator industry uses 2.2 million tons of cars on a commercial basis was to a refrigeration annually to protect fish large extent by meatpackers and fruit from spoiling and convert it into a less shippers and receivers. perishable frozen or canned product. The meat business was growing fast, and Swift had moved his New England THE MEAT INDUSTRY as we know it packing business to Chicago. Rail- today could not have developed with- roads were not anxious to build re- out refrigeration. Prior to the Civil frigerator cars for dressed meat. They War, meat slaughtering houses used were satisfied with the returns from little refrigeration. They were located transporting live animals in stock cars. in the centers of cities where the meat Meatpackers were forced to purchase could be consumed. their own cars, and even today they As livestock production along the own a small fleet of refrigerator cars. Atlantic seaboard proved inadequate Improvements were made to provide for eastern cities, animals were driven lower temperatures in the cars. on the hoof to markets. Cattle and By 1881 the business of shipping sheep withstood this method of trans- dressed beef from Chicago to the East port better than hogs. had become well established. When railroads were built, con- necting the West with the East, a ICE REFRIGERATION was nowhere more heavy traffic developed in freighting important between i860 and 1890 live animals in stock cars to the East. than in meatpacking. Fresh meat could be shipped con- Ice was used in transporting meat siderable distances in the winter, but and to cool it as well as to preserve it summer temperatures were too high in the packing plant. even for curing meat. Curing every- Some meat was frozen using ice and where was a winter operation. Ice was salt mixtures. being experimented with to permit The meatpacking industry, concen- summer curing, but refrigeration was trated in Chicago, brought the cold not practiced until the early 1870's storage warehousing industry there for this particular purpose.
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