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Martinis Around Manhattan by Dale Degroff

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Martinis Around Manhattan by Dale Degroff COCKTAIL CORNER Martinis Around Manhattan By Dale DeGroff hatever claims on the mar- tini other cities make, it is New Kwaku Nyampong WYork City, and I mean Manhat- at King Cole Bar tan, that has a solid lock on the finesse and sophistication of the drink. Frank Moor- house, in his wonderful but wildly expen- sive Martini a Memoir, (Knopf, 2006) is deep in conversation with his friend V.I. Voltz, a West Village Manhattanite, who states emphatically: “There are cities in which you should never order a martini…” He goes on to say: “The bartender should be able to talk a little about the drink he has crafted and discuss your preferences. He should acknowledge that you are a martini drinker, not just any off-the-street drinker. In life, there are drinkers and there are martini drinkers.” But no matter where in the world a solitary martini drinker finds himself, if where these distinctions are once again there is a bartender who is of the brother- recognized. Recently, a group of aficionados hood of the martini, a break in the time/ gathered at the Downtown Club in Lower space continuum is established. Just next Manhattan for a light lunch, to sip a couple door is Peter Dorelli serving martinis at the of 19th century ancestors of the modern dry No matter where in the American Bar in The Savoy and nearby martini and to hear David Wondrich dis- world a solitary martini one can stroll into the Hemingway Bar at cuss the martini and its progress through a the Ritz and enjoy a martini with Colin hundred plus years in Manhattan. drinker finds himself, if Field, while across the street it is 1954 and The martini was an American concoc- there is a bartender who is head-bartender Brian Rea is crafting perfect tion, although popular around the world martinis at the ‘21’ Club. today. The saga of the martini began in of the brotherhood of the Oh, thank heavens we are living in the 1850s with the “Fancy Gin Cocktail,” martini, a break in the the age of the new cocktail bar culture which was popular before vermouth was readily available in this country. It was time/space continuum a stretch from the dry martini, but an is established. ancestor nonetheless. The “Fancy Gin Cocktail” was sweetened and flavored with a popular ingredient that preceded vermouth in cocktail recipes of the day: Curacao. David has taken a bit of license Similar to the “Fancy Gin Cocktail,” Fasten your seat in the recipe below and substituted an- the “Martinez Cocktail” comes closer to belts... it’s gonna be a other orange liqueur to pay tribute to one our modern-day martini. Listed by O.H. bumpy ride! Allen Katz and Dave of the day’s sponsors: Grand Marnier. Byron in his 1884 cocktail book, it also Wondrich prepare guests for the tour used Bokers Bitters and maraschino liqueur, but brings English gin instead of Hollands COCKTAIL to the mix and marries it with vermouth for RECIPES the first time. The saga of the martini Our tour continued north by bus up Manhattan island to some of my favorite began in the 1850s with FANCY GIN COCKTAIL (1862) 2 oz Bols Genever watering holes, including the Old Town the “Fancy Gin Cocktail,” 1 tsp rich simple syrup (2:1 Demerara) Tavern, a legitimate 19th century New York 1/2 tsp Grand Marnier Bar that has not changed much in the in- which was popular 2 dashes Fee’s Whiskey-Barrel Bitters, TBT Aromatic Bitters or tervening years. It survived Prohibition like before vermouth was Angostura Bitters many NYC saloons by selling near beer and, Stir well with cracked ice. Strain into of course, the real stuff to a small group of readily available in this chilled cocktail glass and twist swatch of regulars in the know. Wondrich and his country. It was a stretch thin-cut lemon peel over the top. capable assistant, Allen Katz, served up Marguerite cocktails from circa 1910, also from the dry martini, but TURF CLUB OR known as the Knickerbocker Martini from an ancestor nonetheless. MARTINEZ (1884) the legendary Knickerbocker Bar, tended 1 1/2 oz Heyman’s Old Tom Gin skillfully for years by Martini di Arma 1 1/2 oz Martini & Rossi red vermouth 2 dashes Fee’s Whiskey-Barrel di Taggia. Bitters, TBT Aromatic Bitters or Our next stop was another favorite sa- Angostura Bitters loon: Bill’s. Being an ex-speakeasy, it was the Stir well with cracked ice: Strain into Jan Horvath and Dale perfect venue for David’s homemade bath- chilled cocktail glass and twist swatch of DeGroff, accompanied by thin-cut lemon peel over the top. tub gin made from high-proof grain spirits, Barry Levitt on the water and juniper oil. Of course, we did piano at Bill’s not actually prepare this concoction. That MARGUERITE #2 (ca. 1910) 1 1/2 oz Plymouth Gin would be illegal, wouldn’t it? 1 1/2 oz Noilly Prat white vermouth Next stop was my old workplace, the 1 dash Angostura Orange Bitters bar at the Rainbow Room, although it has Stir well with cracked ice. Strain into changed from the years that I worked there. chilled cocktail glass and twist swatch of Today, three window side tables now replace thin-cut lemon peel over the top. the world famous curved mahogany bar that once drew regulars from around the world. LambS CLUB COCKTAIL Despite some changes in decor, I was happy (ca. 1915) to see old mates still working behind the I ended my portion of the tour at the 1 oz Plymouth Gin 1 oz Cinzano red vermouth mini bar that replaced the original. We en- Great King Cole Bar in the shadow of the 1 oz Noilly Prat dry vermouth joyed well-made, regular dry martinis and extraordinary Maxfield Parrish mural of Old 1/8 teaspoon Benedictine Gibsons, and even though they may no King Cole drinking Plymouth gin martinis. Shake well with lots of ice. Strain into longer work behind that beautiful bar, my I understand that the tour ended with an- chilled cocktail glass. friends at the Rainbow Room still carry on other stop downtown but martini tours are the classic drink traditions that we estab- best kept to a few stops and the King Cole SPEAKEASy “MARTINi” lished in the years gone by. Bar was the zenith for me. n (ca. 1928) 2 oz bathtub gin* 1 oz inexpensive domestic dry vermouth Shake well with ice. Strain into chilled The Rainbow Room cocktail glass. Garnish with olive. *Bath- tub gin: mix 2 750ml bottles Everclear with 1.5 liters distilled water. Add juniper syrup to taste. (VERY) DRY GIBSON (ca. 1938) 2 1/2 oz Plymouth Gin 1/2 oz Noilly Prat dry vermouth Stir well with cracked ice. Strain into chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a cocktail onion..
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