Lithuanian State Department of Tourism Under the Ministry of Economy

EN Cultural holidays in

Lithuanian State Department of Tourism under The Ministry of Economy

Gedimino Ave 38, LT-01104 Vilnius, Lithuania Lithuania Tel. + 370 706 64 976, fax: +370 706 64 988, e-mail: [email protected] www.tourism.lt www.Lithuania.travel

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Cover photos: photographer Monika Požerskytė. Pictures by M. Požerskytė, R. Anusauskas, K. Kantautas, M. Kaminskas, N. Skrudupaitė, K. Stalnionytė, K. Driskius, V. Kirilovas, D. Vitkauskaitė, V. Aukštaitis, A. Žygavičius, L. Ciūnys, L. Medelis, A. Žebrauskas, R. Eitkevičius, L. Druknerytė, Ž. Biržietytė, G. Lukoševičius.

Copywriters: Aušrinė Šėmienė, Kristina Stalnionytė. Editors: Mark Richard Fearon, Jeffrey Clarke.

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Travel round cultural sites

Not for sale. LATVIA 38

Baltic Sea 59

56 39 37 64 62 - 63 57 - 58

65 - 67 54 - 55

61 36 40 41- 43 70 - 71 60 34 - 35 32 - 33 18

29 - 31 44 53 21 - 28

19 - 20 52 45 KALININGRAD REGION (RUSSIA)

BELARUS 46 - 47 Seaport 50 Cultural sites Airport 51 48 - 49

Tourism information centre POLAND Kaišiadorys TBIC Kaišiadorys www.jonturizmas.lt E-mail: muziejus.jonava@takas.lt Tel. +37034952335 LT-55171 Jonava J. Basanavičiaus St 3, Jonava TIC www.jurbarkotic.lt E-mail: turizmas@jurbarkas.lt Tel. +37044751485 Vydūno St 19,LT-74118 Jurbarkas TIC Jurbarkas www.jvic.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37042652388 Žemaičių St 9,Joniškis Joniškis TBIC www.ignalinatic.lt E-mail: tic@ignalina.lt Tel. +37038652597 Ateities St 23,LT-30121 Ignalina Ignalina TIC www.klaipedadistrict.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37046473416 Kvietinių St 5,LT-96122 Gargždai Gargždai TIC www.info.druskininkai.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37031360803 Gardino St 3,Druskininkai www.antour.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37038159177 Gegužės St 1,LT-29106 Anykščiai Anykščiai TIC www.alytus-tourism.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37031552010 14A,LT-62141Rotušės Sq Alytus TIC Alytus E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37037543318 Distr Kaunas AlleyAkacijų 29,Kulautuva, TIC District Kaunas www.verslas.kaisiadorys.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37034660466 Kaišiadorys StGedimino 48,LT-56121 TBIC Druskininkai www.visitbirzai.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37045033496 J. JanonioSt 2,LT-41148 Biržai TIC Biržai www.visitbirstonas.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37031965740 Jaunimo St 3,LT-59206 Birštonas Birštonas TIC Tourismus-Informations zentren inLitauen

www.pakruojistic.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37042161584 Pakruojis Vlg, Pakruojis Distr Parko St 5,LT 83166, Pakruojis RTC www.panevezysinfo.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37045508081 Laisvės 11,LT-35200 Sq Panevėžys PanevėžysCounty TIC www.palangatic.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37046048811 Vytauto St 94,LT-00132 Palanga Palanga TIC www.visitneringa.lt El. p.: [email protected] Tel. +37046952827 Taikos St 4,LT-93121 Neringa “Agila”CTIC Nida www.infomoletai.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37038351187 Inturkės St 4, LT-33141 Molėtai Molėtai TBIC www.infocentras.mazeikiai.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37044395351 Ventos St 8A,LT-89103 Mažeikiai Mažeikiai TBIC www.lazdijai-turizmas.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37031851160 Vilniaus St 1,LT-67106 Lazdijai Lazdijai TIC www.klaipedainfo.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37046412186 Turgaus St 7,LT-91247 Klaipėda CTIC Klaipėda http://www.kedainiutvic.lt El. p.: [email protected] Tel. +37034756900, St 1,LT-57248Didžioji Kėdainiai Kėdainiai TIC www.kraziai.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37061433660 Kelmė District Kolegijos St 5,Kražiai, TIC Kražiai www.musuodiseja.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37037207879 M. Valančiaus St 19,LT-44275 Kaunas TIC by JSC “Mūsų odisėja“ www.kaunastic.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37037323436 Laisvės 36,LT-44240 Sq Kaunas Region TIC Kaunas

www.zarasai.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37038537171 22,LT-32110 Sq Sėlių Zarasai TIC Zarasai www.vilnius-tourism.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37052629660 Vilniaus St 22,LT-01119 Vilnius Vilnius TIC www.vilkaviskisinfo.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37034220525 Vilkaviškis J.Basanavičiaus 7,LT-70101 Sq Vilkaviškis TBIC www.utenainfo.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37038954346 Stoties St 39,LT-28134 Utena www.trakai E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37052851934 Vytauto St 69,LT- 21001 Trakai Trakai TIC www.taurage.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37044661404 Vytauto St 60,LT-72248 Tauragė Tauragė TIC www.svencionys.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37038751047 Laisvės 3,LT-18116 Sq Švenčionys Švenčionys TIC www.siluteinfo.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37044177785 Lietuvininkų St 4,LT-99179 Šilutė Museum TIC Šilutė http://tic.siauliai.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37041523110 Vilniaus St 213,LT-76348 Šiauliai TIC Šiauliai www.sesupe.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37034551262 V. Kudirkos St 61/1,LT-71126 Šakiai Euroregion TIC Šešupė www.skouds.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37044073935 StGedimino 1,LT-98124 Skuodas Municipality District Skuodas of theAdministration ofthe Culture and Tourism Department www.pasvaliomuziejus.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37045134096 P. Avižonio St 6,LT-39149 Pasvalys Pasvalys TIC Utena TIC - visit.lt

RTC –Recreation and Tourism Centre tion Centre –CulturalCTIC and Tourism Informa- tion Centre TBIC – Tourism Informa andBusiness - * www.varniai-museum.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37044447455 S. Daukanto St 6, Varniai, Telšiai Distr Museum Diocese TIC Samogitians www.suvalkijos.info E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37067093708 Municipality Laisvės St 2,Kalvarija, Kalvarija Suvalkija TBIC www.jewishcenter.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37052616422 Mėsinių St 3a/5, Vilnius LT-01133 Centre Jewish CulturalandInformation www.tytuvenai.eu E-mail: [email protected] Tel.: +37067497392 Maironio St 1, Tytuvėnai, Kelmė Distr TytuvėnaiPilgrim TIC E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37031856535 Vytauto St 47, Veisiejų m.,Lazdijai Distr Veisiejai TIC www.ukmergeinfo.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37034063551 LT-20130 Ukmergė Kęstučio 2-2/Vienuolyno Sq St 14-2, Ukmergė TBIC www.tic.rokiskyje.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37045831512 LT-42115 Rokiškis Nepriklausomybės 8, Sq Rokiškis TIC www.rvic.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37042870723 Muziejaus St 5,LT-60122 Raseiniai Raseiniai TBIC www.siluteinfo.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37044177785 Lietuvininkų St 4,LT-99179 Šilutė museum TIC Šilutė www.siauliair-vic.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37041584486 J. Basanavičiaus St 7,81156Kuršėnai TBIC District Šiauliai www.telsiaitic.lt E-mail: [email protected] Tel. +37044453010 LT-87122 Telšiai Turgaus 2A 21/Sinagogos Sq TIC Samogitia TIC – Tourism Information Centre

You are in 1 Lithuania!

“…I first came to Lithuania when the snow was melting. I came here just by accident while travelling from West to East, from one old culture to another, totally different one. I was in a rush, so there were no plans to make a stop. However, when passing through Lithuania, a strange sense of space and freedom – unlike anywhere else – came into my heart. And an urge to return… Therefore, in summer I came here with my entire family. All-surrounding greenness heightened that intoxicating sense of space and freedom. I could not stop admiring the purest natural water springs, mineral water, overflowing abundance of lakes and rivers seeking to find their way to the sea. Even the rain! It is somehow different here – cosy, romantic, and calling to stumble into an old town bakery, smoked fish bistro or a small amber souvenir shop. Children got enough of swimming and still share their impressions of a place that is surrounded by mysterious and extraordinary aura – the Hill of Crosses, where, among thousands of others, they left a cross of their own. They are all the time asking me to remind the name of that traditional funny-coloured cold soup that Lithuanians adore. It is a cold beetroot soup. My wife (who is a diet freak) was particularly delighted by this dish. It was so amazing when unexpectedly I had to travel to Lithuania for work in autumn! Strange coincidence: I made a wish to come back to Lithuania this summer while standing on the Miracle Tile in the heart of Vilnius – Cathedral Square. Might it be that the tile is really magic? This time I trusted the country for all the hard-working and peaceful people that I met here. These people know how to work with all their might and party from the heart, they know how to jazz and root for their favourite basketball team. After joining them I even forgot that I am a foreigner! And the beer was the best, and that strangeness of the local cuisine called “cepelinai” – really delicious... Once I even thought of living here…” Extract from the diary of John M. Content

Totorių St

Pilies St

Liejyklos St

Šv. Ignoto St

Maironio St Old Town of Vilnius: Universiteto St

The Castles in Vilnius Trakų St

The National Museum of Vokiečių St

Lithuania Didžioji St Bokšto St Archcathedral Basilica of Vilnius

Rotušės Sq The Architectural Complex Maironio St of Vilnius University

Presidential Palace Šv. Kazimiero St The Streets of Pilies

and Didžioji Subačiaus St Rūdininkų St The Church of St. Anne

Arklių St The Gate of Dawn

M. Daukšos St

Old Town of Kaunas:

Town Hall

The House of Perkūnas Pilies St The Church of Vytautas Kaunas Castle Papilio St Kumelių St

M. Daukšos St

M. Valančiaus St

begining of the V. Sladkevičiaus St route

A. Mapu St

J. Jablonskio St Vilniaus St

Rotušės Sq Vilniaus St

Rotušės Sq Rotušės Sq

Muitinės St

M. Daukšos St

Aleksoto St Palangos St

J. Naugarduko St Vilnius 044 The Old Town of Vilnius

The city of Literatų Street red roofs and pealing bells Vilnius Although Vilnius is first of all the political, economic, and academic centre of Lithuania, which is natural for the capital of a modern state, its historic architecture – moderate yet especially warm – charms every visitor. Gedimino Avenue This is a city where everyone feels at home. You will feel the same, especially on a Sunday morning upon hearing the church bells peal and smelling the delicious scent of coffee in the Old Town. In 1994 the Old Town of Vilnius was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Start exploring this stunning city, otherwise known as the masterpiece of Baroque, by paying a visit to the royal castles. Vilnius 05 The Upper Castle or Gediminas’ Tower Castle Royal Palace of the Dukes of Lithuania

1 | The Castles in Vilnius The National Museum in the Royal Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania The Upper Castle or * Katedros Sq 4, Vilnius Gediminas’ Tower Castle * Tel. +370 521 27 476 * Arsenalo St 5, Vilnius * Tour reservation by telephone * Tel. +370 526 17 453, +370 526 29 426 * www.valdovurumai.lt * Open Oct-Apr, daily (10 am-7 pm), The Lower Castle, built at the foot of May-Sep, daily (10 am-7 pm). Gediminas Hill, was destroyed in the 19th * Admission fee. * www.lnm.lt century with only a few of its original A hill was a convenient place for people to buildings surviving. National Museum – the settle. The first settlement in the surrounding Royal Palace of the Dukes of Lithuania – is area is known to have been built in the open for visitors since July, 2013. Neolithic Age. The first fortifications were constructed on the hill in the 9th century, and in the 13th–14th century a castle was built on IMPORTANT TO SEE: the site. The castle was home to nearly all of Lithuania’s rulers. They regularly expanded and rebuilt the castle and, as a result, in the 15th– The Gediminas Castle Tower; 17th centuries Vilnius developed into one of the most significant cities in Europe. The Funicular to Gediminas Hill;

The brick castle consisted of two parts – The Royal Palace. The Upper Castle and The Lower Castle. The surviving remnants of the Upper Castle located Renaissance audience hall on Gediminas Hill and the Western Tower, otherwise known as Gediminas Castle Tower, are open to visitors to this day. The hill allows a splendid view of Vilnius with the white Royal Palace of Lithuania below and a sea of red roofs in the Old Town with numerous church towers standing out among them. To get to the top of Gediminas Hill you may use a funicular (Arsenalo St 5). In May–Sep its daily opening hours are 10 am – 7 pm, in Oct- Apr – Tue–Sun, 10 am – 6 pm. Vilnius 6 The National Museum of Museum of Lithuania The Archcathedral Basilica of Vilnius

Expo Hall Bas-relief “The Sacrifice of Noah“ in tympan gable

2 | The National Museum In the Cathedral Square, next to the castles, of Lithuania is the white Archcathedral Basilica of Vilnius. Don’t pass it by, as it is a significant part of the * Arsenalo St 1, Vilnius history of Vilnius. * Tel. +370 526 27 774, +370 526 29 426 * Open: May–Sep, Tue–Sat: 10am– 5pm, and 3 | Archcathedral Basilica of Vilnius Sun: 10am-3pm; Oct–Apr, Wed–Sun (10am- 5pm). * Admission fee. * www.lnm.lt * Katedros Sq 1, Vilnius * Tel. +370 526 10 731, +370 526 11 127 The museum is the largest and oldest * Open: daily (7am–7pm). depository of cultural heritage in Lithuania. * Free of charge. * www.katedra.lt The roots of the museum can be traced back The Archcathedral Basilica of Saint to the mid 19th century when Count Eustache Stanislaus and Saint Vladislav is situated on Tyszkiewicz (Lith. Eustachas Tiškevičius), a a site believed to have been a pagan shrine. historian and a collector, established the It was supposedly built to commemorate Museum of Antiquities. In 1918, Dr Jonas King Mindaugas’ conversion to Christianity Basanavičius, one of the leaders of the national in 1251. Since then the Cathedral has liberation movement, began to establish undergone many restorations and as the Museum of History and Ethnography by a result the present building contains joining together collections from the Museum elements of different architectural styles. of Antiquities and the Lithuanian Scientific Features of Classicism appeared at the end Society. Today the museum stores impressive of the 18th century when the Cathedral was collections of Lithuanian archaeology, rebuilt according to the project of a famous history, and ethnic culture. The museum holds Lithuanian architect, Laurynas Gucevičius. educational activities, for example Thursday evenings are dedicated to the history of culture. The building contains numerous valuable Don’t miss this chance and come along! frescoes, sculptures, and tombstones and the Vilnius 077 Vilnius University basement is decorated with the oldest known fresco in Lithuania (dating back to the 14th century), portraying Christ’s crucifixion. The Cathedral chapel is the eternal resting place of the patron of Lithuania and special patron of all youth, Saint Casimir (Kazimieras). In 1430 the Grand Duke of Lithuania Vytautas was buried in the Archcathedral. Additionally, the Cathedral Mausoleum guards the bodies of the Grand Duke of Lithuania as well as King Alexander of Poland (Aleksandras Jogailaitis) (1460–1506), the two wives of possess miraculous attributes. Step on the Sigismund Augustus (Žygimantas Augustas), miracle tile, make a wish, turn around and i.e. Queen Elisabeth of Austria (Elžbieta) and your wish will come true. Queen Barbora Radvilaitė. The walls of the Go straight along the square to Cathedral also provide shelter for the urn Universiteto Street. On your right you will containing the heart of King Wladyslaw Vasa see the Presidential Palace, and on the left (Vladislovas Vaza) (1632–1648). Tourists can stretches the majestic complex of buildings see the tombs of these nobles by booking an which make up Vilnius University. excursion to the basement of the Cathedral. 4 | The Architectural Complex of The 57 metre high belfry of the Cathedral is situated on the remnants of the Lower Vilnius University th Castle’s defensive wall tower. In the 17 * Universiteto St 3, Vilnius century a clock was built inside. Even today * Tel. +370 5 268 7103 we can hear its bells tolling. Tours of the ensemble and library are available: Mon-Fri (9am–3pm); outdoor yards Having left the Cathedral, approximately are open: Mon-Sun (9am–6.30pm). halfway to the belfry, you will come to the * The bell-tower is open: spring/autumn, multicoloured “Miracle” tile with inscribed Mon-Sun (10am–7pm); summer, glass letters saying “STEBUKLAS” (miracle). It Mon-Sun (11am–8pm). marks one of the oldest pagan priest ritual * Admission fee. sites in Europe. The place is still believed to * www.mb.vu.lt, www.vu.lt. The Church of St. Johns IMPORTANT TO SEE

The Chapel of Saint Casimir; The Kings’ Crypt; The Chapter Crypt; The Bishops’ Crypt; The Burial Place of Vytautas the Great; The Mausoleum. Vilnius 808

Established in a block of Vilnius framed by Paying a visit to the Faculty of Philology three streets – Šv. Jono, Skapo, and Universiteto is also a must. The impressive frescoes “The – Vilnius University is a complex of majestic Seasons of the Year” in the lobby of the buildings possessing features of Gothic, Centre of Lithuanian Language Studies were Renaissance, Baroque, and Classicist styles. It created by the prominent Lithuanian artist is famous for its twelve inner courtyards, and Petras Repšys. The frescoes, which occupy the Church of St. Johns, the belfry of which is an area of 200 m², include motifs of ancient the highest in the entire city. The University Baltic mythology. Just a few steps away, Library, established in 1570, boasts particularly the University bookstore “Littera” contains rich collections of old and rare editions, another masterpiece of contemporary art, first print books and cartography. The first i.e. a painting in the al fresco style by Antanas Lithuanian book – “Katekizmas” (“Catechism”) Kmieliauskas. The 120 sq. m arch portrays by Martynas Mažvydas, is also stored in the figures symbolising astronomy, medicine, University Library. botany, music, art, and other sciences as well as the arts. Founded in 1579, Vilnius University is one of the oldest and most prominent higher The pride of the University is the Church education institutions in Central and Eastern of St. Johns located in one of its most Europe. Functioning for a long time as the only impressive inner courtyards. It is a must-see school of learning in Lithuania, the University site for you too. Construction of the church was a keeper of cultural and scientific traditions was begun after the Christianisation of and has played a significant role in the cultural Lithuania in 1387. The interior of the church is life of neighbouring regions. It was the place unique as it contains the only composition of of education and work for many people who ten presbytery altars in the Baltic countries. later became famous across Europe. Take in the panoramic view of Vilnius In 1753 the Astronomical Observatory from the bell-tower of the Church of the was established at the University, which is Saints John (the Baptist and the Evangelist), one of the oldest of its kind in Europe and the tallest building in Old Town. A modern the oldest in the former state of Lithuania lift whisks you to the observation deck at a and Poland. Be sure not to miss the vast height of 45 m. The bell tower also houses collection of ancient astronomical devices. The Museum of Science. Vilnius University Vilnius 099

Presidential Palace

Go down and leave the University Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte; and the through The Great (Didysis) and Motiejus Marshal of Poland, Józef Piłsudski. Sarbievijus yards. Now you are in front of Nowadays, between the white walls of the the Presidential Palace. palace, the President receives foreign heads 5 | Presidential Palace of state and heads of government. You can tell if the President is in Lithuania on any * S. Daukanto Sq 3 given day by glancing upward; if you see the * Tel. +370 5 266 4011, flag waving in the breeze, the President is in (Tours information) +370 5 2664073 Lithuania. When the President goes on a trip * Tours are available: Fri (4.30pm), abroad, the flag is lowered. St (9am–2.30pm). * Free of charge. * www.president.lt If you go on a tour, you will see the historic interior of the palace and the President’s The narrow streets around the office. Sign up in advance for the tour, and Presidential Palace lead into the spacious, bring a personal identification document Classicist (18th–19th century) S. Daukanto when you come. square. Each Sunday at 12pm, a flag-changing From the 16th century on, the palace ceremony takes place in the square. was the residence of the Bishop of The Honour Guard is attired in full-dress Vilnius. When occupied Lithuania was uniforms, including several in medieval incorporated into the Russian Empire armour. in the 18th century, the palace became the residence of the Governor-General After visiting Presidential Palace cross of Vilnius. Over the years, the elegant the square and turn right. Go down Skapo building received the Tsar of Russia, Street and get to the bussy and lively street Alexander I; the King of France, Louis XVIII; paved with stones. Vilnius 10 Pilies Street pioneering Lithuanian epidemiologist who started vaccinating people against smallpox. On the right of Pilies Street the whole block is occupied by the Vilnius University complex. On the other side, a bit higher up (Pilies St 24) stands the “Narutis” hotel. At the beginning of the 19th century it was home to the Polish writer and historian Józef Ignacy Kraszewski. Nearby, at Pilies St 26 is the House of the Signatories. It was in this place that on the 16th of February 1918 the Council of Lithuania signed the Act of Independence of Lithuania. Now the building houses a museum. At the crossroad that previously used to be a fish market area, we can now see a cosy market square. In the square stands a huge stone called by the name of Ragutis, the God of beer. Legend has it that the one who moves the stone will not die in his bed. The stone was found nearby in Latako Street and pulled to the place where it now stands. Unfortunately, the archaeologist who gave this order was shot at a party in Užupis. 6 | The Streets of Pilies Nearby stands the Orthodox Church of and Didžioji St. Paraskeva (Didžioji St 2). According to legend, Gannibal (or Hannibal), the black- * Vilnius Tourist Information Centre (TIC), Didžioji St 31 * Tel. +370 5 262 9660 skinned great-grandfather of Alexander * www.vilnius-tourism.lt Pushkin, was baptised here. Didžioji Street 1 was known as Frank’s house These are the oldest and most beautiful for a long time, as at the beginning of the 19th streets in the Old Town of Vilnius, the main century this was home to Jozeph Frank, the route to the Dukes’ palace, a place where the head of the Therapeutic Clinic, who lived there nobles and affluent residents of the city built together with other University professors. His their houses. Didžioji Street Pilies Street charms everyone with its variety of architecture: residential houses are built in the Gothic style (Pilies St 12 and 14), Chapter House (Pilies St 4) is an example of a Renaissance-style building, while the gable of the Church of St. Johns is built in the Baroque style. The monumental bust of Juliusz Slowacki placed in the courtyard of Pilies St 22 marks the place where he lived together with his stepfather Professor August Becu, the Vilnius 11 Town Hall Square

contribution to medicine at the University square. In 1794 Szymon Kossakowski (Lith. was so great that in his report to the Emperor Simonas Kosakovskis), Hetman of the Grand in 1812, the senior doctor of Napoleon’s Army Duchy of Lithuania, was beheaded in this place. th stated that such medicine could also thrive in In the 16 century, the site was also used to Paris. In the summer of 1812 the French Army burn protestant books. Many entertainment intendant Marie Henris Beyle, now known under events also took place in the square, including the name of Stendhal, stayed in the house. Now performances by travelling acrobats, the building houses the French Embassy and a comedians, etc. To this day the square is still cosy French-style café. used to hold many cultural events. On the other side (Didžioji St 4) is the former The Town Hall (Didžioji St 31) was established Palace of Chodkevičiai which contains the by the privilege of King Jogaila at the end of the th Vilnius Picture Gallery with its impressive 14 century. At first it was a Gothic building, collection of Western art. The museum holds later reconstructed in the Classicist style classical music concerts which in summer take according to the project of Laurynas Gucevičius, place in the inner courtyard. From 1940–1950 the most prominent architect of the time. It was the philosopher Vosylius Sezemanas lived in used for storing weapons and the basement this building. He is famous for the books “Logika” served as a prison. Now the Town Hall is used for (“Logic”) (1928) and “Estetika” (“Aesthetics”) ceremonial purposes, concerts, and exhibitions. (1970) which are acknowledged as key treatises The portico of the Town Hall has been the place of Lithuanian philosophy. for some prominent guests to address the Lithuanian public and give speeches, such as This is where the most important square Queen Elisabeth II of the UK and US President of the city – Town Hall Square – begins. It is George W. Bush. situated at the meeting point of important roads. At first, it was a market place. At the end At Didžioji Street 34 stands the first Baroque of the 14th century, when Vilnius obtained the church in Vilnius – The Church of Saint Casimir Magdeburg rights, the Town Hall containing (Kazimieras). It was founded and built by a magistrate’s court was built. In its courtyard Jesuits to honour their prince and the patron of the herald would shout out the verdict to Lithuania, Saint Casimir. The church contains a the public. The square contained a pole for 45-voice “Oberlinger” mechanic organ of three fastening offenders to. To commit death penalty manuals. On Sundays the church holds free executions, a scaffold would be brought to the organ concerts. Vilnius 12 The Opera “Bohema”

From The Church of Saint Casimir go down in the concert hall. Not only the best-known Pilies Street back to Cathedral Square. Walk Lithuanian artists, but also world-renowned jazz up Gediminas avenue till you see the Vincas and pop music performers appear here. Violeta Kudirka Sculpture on your right. Pass it by, turn Urmana, Sergejus Larinas, and Sergej Leiferkus to the right and you will reach Vilnius Congress have appeared on the Congress Hall stage. Hall down the hill. The opera “Bohema”, about young artists, 7 | Vilnius Congress Hall held at the Congress Hall in 2006–2007, attained a stunning level of popularity and exceeded * Vilniaus St 6/16 the expectations of its creators (director Dalia * Tel. +370 5 262 95 42, +370 5 261 87 07 Ibelhauptaitė, conductor Gintaras Rinkevičius, * www.lvso.lt and costume designer Juozas Statkevičius). While visiting the capital, set aside an evening The performance became the springboard to visit Vilnius Congress Hall, which since 1999 for the artistically powerful “Bohemian” opera has been the home of the Lithuanian State group, whose performances have become a Symphony Orchestra. The orchestra’s chief remarkable element of Lithuania’s cultural life. conductor and music director is Gintaras Rinkevičius. Symphony and chamber music After leaving Vilnius Congress Hall look to concerts and opera performances are held your left and you will see Lithuanian National Opera and Ballet Theatre on the other side of Vilnius Congress Hall the street. 8 | Lithuanian National Opera and Ballet Theatre

* A. Vienuolio St 1, Vilnius * Tel. +370 526 20 727, telephone to book tickets: +370 615 51 000 * Open, Mon-Sun (10am–6.30pm and during performances). * www.opera.lt Vilnius 13

In front of the majestic palace of Lithuanian soloists from the Mariinsky Theatre in Saint National Opera and Ballet Theatre, built in Petersburg, The Bolshoi Theatre of Moscow 1974, lies a modest monument created by the brought “Le Corsaire” to Lithuania, with leading sculptor Gediminas Jokūbonis dedicated to roles played by such prominent dancers as Kipras Petrauskas. He was the pioneer of the Nikolai Tsiskaridze, Maria Alexandrova, Natalia glorious history of the Lithuanian opera. Osipova, and Ivan Vasiliev, the so-called pearls of ballet. The National Opera and Ballet Theatre The Hall now seats almost 1,000 spectators maintains particularly close ties with Maya and hosts remarkable plays and performances Plisetskaya. of world-famous opera singers and top ballet dancers. Frequent guests in the Theatre are the The repertoire of the Opera and Ballet famous soloists Violeta Urmana and Nomeda Theatre is particularly rich featuring many Kazlaus. Such figures as Montserrat Caballe classical ballets. In fact, this is something to take and Ramon Vargas have also performed pride in, as not every European ballet can boast here. “The Flying Dutchman” was directed by such an equally rich repertoire. This is why world-famous Sound Director from the USA, many classical ballet artists dream of pursuing Francesca Zambello, “Madam Butterfly” – by their career in Lithuania. During breaks in the Anthony Minghella, whereas David Alden, an performance, it is common for spectators to avant-gardist from the USA directed “Salome”. enjoy a glass of champagne or a cup of hot The works of F. Chopin and R. Schumann were chocolate. Come and experience the same played here by the best pianist in the world, pleasure. Evgeny Kissin, and last year the Theatre held Get back to the Gediminas Avenue and a concert by one of the top orchestras in the return to Cathedral square. Cross the park and world – the New York Philharmonic Orchestra. turn to Maironis Street on your right. Keep On more than one occasion the Opera and walking till you reach Užupis bridge. Go to the Ballet Theatre has hosted concerts by ballet other side of the river Vilnelė. The National Opera and Ballet Theatre Vilnius 14 Užupis Republic

9 | Užupis Republic languages, affixed to a fence and a wall. In addition to its own constitution, Užupis has its * Near the Old Town, on the right bank of the own anthem, a sheriff, a bishop, two churches, Vilnelė river * Free of charge. and seven bridges. In Žvirgždyno Street, you can find one of the oldest cemeteries in Vilnius, Upon arrival in the central square of Užupis, the Bernardine cemetery, with its moss-grown you are greeted by the bronze statue of the gravestones. Many noteworthy Lithuanians Angel of Užupis. This neighbourhood, popular were laid to rest there. with artists, is often compared with Montmartre in Paris or Freetown Christiania in Copenhagen. During the Soviet period, Užupis fell into neglect, but due to the presence in the Having turned away from the Angel, as one neighbourhood of the Vilnius Academy of Arts, goes down Paupio Street, one can read the artists began to take up residence. Alternative constitution of the Užupis Republic in various fashion festivals, concerts, performances, Užupis Republic creative parties, and poetry-readings all take place in Užupis. Alternative art shows are held at the “Galera”, the Užupis arts incubator. Tucked away on the banks of the Vilnelė sits another symbol of Užupis, the bronze mermaid, also called Our Lady of Užupis. She attracts people from all over the world to Užupis, and those unable to resist her charms decide to stay. Go back to Vilnelė river till you reach Gediminas Hill. Take a walk along the river Vilnius 15 The Church of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul

to Pilies Bridge. Go right up the T. Kosciuškos in the war against Moscow. Italian craftsmen Street till the traffic circle where you will see St. Giovanni Pietro Perti and Giovanni Maria Peter’s and St. Paul’s Church. Galli decorated the church with white stucco mouldings that spread the idea of the power, 10 | St. Peter’s and St. Paul’s Church vitality and majesty of the church. After the * Antakalnio St 1, Vilnius * Tel. +370 523 40 229 founder died, the shrine became his grave – * Free of charge. * Open: daily (6am–6.30pm). just as he wished, and Michael Casimir Pac was * www.vilnius-tourism.lt buried in the basement, below the entry to the church. Visitors are attracted by the particularly stunning interior of the church, while pilgrims To honour the visit of Pope John II to first kneel down by the icon of the Blessed Lithuania and Vilnius in 1993, the square in Virgin Mary Mother of Mercy, which is believed front of the church was given his name. to have miraculous properties, and the holy Interior of the Church of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul image portraying the Virgin Mary defending Vilnius’ residents from the plague of 1710. According to legend, the first church in the Antakalnis district was built in the 14th century on the site of worship of the Baltic love goddess Milda. Construction of the current church was begun in 1668 by Vilnius Voivode and the grand Hetman of Lithuania Michał Kazimierz Pac (Lith. Mykolas Kazimieras Pacas) (1624–1682) to commemorate victory Vilnius 16 The Churches of Saint Anne and Saint Francis of Assisi (Bernardines)

This is not the end of the route, as there is still of St Francis of Assisi (Bernardines) was built next another masterpiece is waiting for you to visit. to the Church of St Anne. It was incorporated It even stunned the French Emperor Napoleon. into the city’s defensive structures. Although You will have to return to the Old Town. the church acquired features of Renaissance and Baroque styles after the reconstructions of 11 | The Churches of Saint the 16th-17th century, it still remains one of the Anne and Saint Francis of Assisi greatest sacred Gothic buildings in Lithuania. (Bernardines) Tourists are offered a route in the Church of St Francis of Assisi (Bernardines). It leads to * Maironio St 8–1, 10, Vilnius. * Tel. +370 616 01 159 * Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri, 7am- the Chapel of St Florian (The Three Kings), 7pm; Wed, Sat, 10 am-7pm; Sun, 8.30am-7pm. along the corridor of the cloister decorated The Bernardine church is open daily with newly uncovered frescoes, to the Gothic (7am-9pm). * Free of charge. courtyard. The route then runs to the presbytery – the monks’ choir, the underground crypt, the Šv. Florijono koplyčią; * www.parapija.bernardinai.lt Gothic Bell Tower, returning via spiral steps to Freskas; The Church of St Anne is one of the most the loft of the church, which now functions as enchanting and famous buildings in Vilnius, a platform from which to enjoy splendid views Vilniaus panoramą iš a masterpiece of late Gothic architecture. across the Vilnius panorama. Šv. Pranciškaus Asyžiečio Numerous legends are associated with the (Bernardinų) bažnyčios palėpės. church, the most widely known of which is that IMPORTANT TO SEE Napoleon, having seen the church, wanted to take it with him to Paris. The Church of St Anne The Chapel of St Florian; was built in around 1495–1501. Since then it The Frescoes; has been reconstructed repeatedly. However, its exterior has remained almost unchanged. The view from the loft of the Church of St Francis of Assisi (Bernardines). At the end of the 15th century, the Church Vilnius 17

12 | The Gate of Dawn

* Aušros Vartų St 12, Vilnius * Tel. +370 521 23 513 * Open: daily (6am- 7pm). * Free of charge. * www.ausrosvartai.lt Votive Offerings Just as in Rome where all pilgrims aim for Saint Peter’s Basilica, in Vilnius the Gate of Dawn is the most celebrated pilgrimage site. Stories have it that the cornerstone of the defensive fortification laid in 1492–1507 was placed on the site of the road leading to Medininkai, on the way to Moscow. In 1514 the Chapel of the Mother of God was built above the Medininkai Gate in the defensive tower. According to the custom of Catholic European cities, the chapel hosted the image of the Blessed Virgin Mary Mother of Mercy. Since the mid 17th century, the image of the Gate of

The Gate of Dawn

The image of the Blessed Virgin Mary Mother of Mercy Dawn has been believed to have miraculous properties. You can hear numerous legends about the miracles relating to the church. According to one of them, in 1671, when the image of Mary was brought to the chapel, a two-year old baby fell from the second storey and died upon hitting the ground. The grieving parents left the baby by the image and next morning found it alive and well again. People who had encountered a miraculous experience, or those praying for one, would leave offerings by the image. In this way it acquired its silver frame. In 1927 the image was crowned with papal crowns. Your journey in Vilnius is over here but it is a convenient spot from which to set off and explore its surroundings. Vilnius Surroundings 18 The Three Capitals of Lithuania

Trakai Castle

Enjoy the view of the castle by swimming in a Vilnius boat, riding a pedalo, or even from a sailboard… Surroundings Start your trip in the surroundings of Vilnius by visiting Trakai. The distance By travelling in the surroundings of Vilnius between the contemporary capital Vilnius and not going further than 50 kilometres and the medieval capital is 28 kilometres. away, you will have a chance to visit two more capitals of Lithuania – Kernavė and Trakai. In the 13 | Trakai Island Castle former, which dates back to the 13th century and features five hill-forts set amid a wide * Kęstučio St 43C, Trakai * Tel. +370 528 53 green valley, you can enjoy stunning panoramic 940, +370 528 53 946 * Open: May– views. The latter, alluding to the fact that in Sept, daily (10am–9pm.); Mar, Apr and Oct, th Tue–Sun – 10am–7pm, Nov–Feb, Tue–Sun – the 15 century the Grand Duchy of Lithuania 10am–5pm * Admission fee. extended from the Baltic Sea to the Black Sea, * www.trakaimuziejus.lt you should not miss the chance to visit the impressive museum set in the medieval castle Trakai Island Castle is located on one of on an island in Lake Galvė. You can get to the the isles of Lake Galvė and is the symbol of castle by crossing long wooden bridges. Apart Lithuania. Construction of the castle was from visiting the castle and observing its interior supposedly begun in the 14th century by the you can choose a totally different vantage point. Grand Duke of Lithuania Kęstutis and finished Vilnius Surroundings 19

th in the 15 century by his son Vytautas. It was a Medieval Festival fortress that no enemy could ever destroy. After the Battle of Grunwald, when the Teutonic Knights had been decisively defeated, the Castle became the residence of the Grand Duke of Lithuania. The town also started thriving: visits of merchants from other countries, honoured guests, and foreign ambassadors became more frequent and they were received in the ceremonial hall of the island’s palace.

After reconstruction, in 1987 the castle Concert in the Manor House of Užutrakis regained the exterior of the 15th century. It now houses a splendid museum displaying many preserved objects such as pieces of furniture, pipes, stamps, clocks, porcelain and glass articles, and hunting trophies. The Dominican Abbey contains a permanent exhibition of sacral art. In summer, you have an excellent opportunity to attend concerts and the opera festival arranged in the Castle yard.

Panorama of Trakai Vilnius Surroundings 20 Užutrakis manor estate

Every year, on the third Friday of May, When you visit Trakai, the national there is the rare date when you have a Karaite meal – kibinai (pasties) – is a chance to visit Trakai History Museum at night, must to try. Enjoying the mouth-watering during the events of “Museum Night”. Get pasty, take a look at the other side of Lake hands on and learn some ancient crafts, or try Galvė – you will see a Classicist-style manor shooting a medieval-style bow. After dark the overlooking the surroundings. It is only 10 night’s events begin with medieval music, kilometres round the lake. dances, knight fights and fakirs. 15 | Užutrakis Manor Estate 14 | The Ethnographic Exhibition * Užtrakio St 5, Trakai. of Karaites * Tel. +370 528 55 006 * Open Thu-Sun (11am-7pm). * Karaimų St 22, Trakai * Tel. +370 528 55 286 * Admission fee. * www.seniejitrakai.lt * Open: Wed–Sun (10am–6pm). * Admission fee. * www.trakaimuziejus.lt The manor house located on the bank of Lake Galvė, has a stunning panoramic view Karaites are the smallest community of ethnic of Trakai Castle and the town. Turkic adherents living in Lithuania. In the late 14th century the Grand Duke of Lithuania Vytautas The complex of Užutrakis Manor House reached the Crimean peninsula, implementing was created in 1897–1902 on the initiative the politics of conquering foreign lands. After The Sculpture of Užutrakis Manor Estate victory against the Golden Horde, he brought back 383 Karaite families who started living in the Trakai area. Some of them started working as guards, while others cultivated the land and worked in the field of agriculture, trade and crafts. The nation has preserved its uniqueness to this day and they still use their native tongue. Karaites still pray in a Kenesa, the only such temple still operating in Europe. You can learn much more about Karaites in the museum. Vilnius Surroundings 21 The Holy Trinity Church in Sudervė of Count Tiškevičius. The Tiškevičius family owned the house until World War II. The Manor House of Užutrakis is built in the style of Historicism, in accordance to the design of a prominent Warsaw architect Józef Huss. A French landscape architect, Édouard François André, planted the beautiful parterres of flower beds, and also designed and built the walkways, marble sculptures, busts and vases situated near the manor. Count Tiškevičiai used a ferryboat to reach the peninsula between Lakes Galvė and Skaistis. In summer, the manor house hosts classical music concerts “Užutrakio vakarai”, which traditionally start in late July and last until late August. The parish of Sudervė was established Having walked in the impressive natural in the late 18th century by a Bishop of surroundings of the park enjoying the Vilnius, Ignacy Jakub Massalski (Lith. splendid views of the lake, get ready to visit Ignotas Masalskis). In the period 1803–1822 another site – Sudervė. It is 40 kilometres Valentinas Volčackis, a Dominican monk, away and it features the only round church in raised funds for the church. The church Lithuania. was designed by the architect Laurynas Bartkevičius who chose a structure based on 16 | The Holy Trinity Church the Roman Pantheon. The church of Sudervė in Sudervė is a rotunda with a dome-shaped roof, which is supported by six columns on the façade * Kernavės St 1, Sudervė, Vilnius Distr. side. The niches between the columns house * Tel. + 370 5 249 0287 * Open: before the service on weekdays – 4.30pm, Sun – 11am, sculptures of the four evangelists and the 1pm and 3pm. * Free of charge. Apostles Peter and Paul. * http://vilnius.lcn.lt Manor House of Užutrakis Vilnius Surroundings 22

Well, it is now time to visit the first Five mounds (hill-forts) on the right medieval capital of Lithuania. Kernavė slope of the Neris valley make for is just 20 kilometres away. On your way an impressive landscape. This is one don’t forget to stop and see the Stone of the largest remaining complexes Sculpture Park located on the shore of of defensive hill-forts in the Baltic Lake Vilnoja. countries. The complex sheds light on Lithuania’s prehistoric period as well as 17 | The Mounds of Kernavė the early stages of the formation of the * Kerniaus St 4 a, Kernavė, Širvintos Distr Lithuanian state. * Tel. +370 382 47 385, +370 382 47 371 The first inhabitants settled in * Excursions are held in the reserve in Apr–Oct, Tue–Sat (10am–5.30pm). Kernavė in 9,000–8,000 B.C. From then, * Admission fee. throughout the Early Middle Ages, the * www.kernave.org site was constantly inhabited by people who left their marks on the area. It is a unique site in the whole Baltic Sea area, as no other five-mound complex can be found in the territory. This unique place is included in UNESCO Worlds Heritage list. Written sources mention Kernavė in 1279 as the domain of the Grand Duke of Lithuania Traidenis and the first capital of Lithuania. In 1390, during a Teutonic attack, Kernavė was burned down and its remains were hidden forever by a thick layer of soil, embalming the traces of the inhabitants of the Lithuanian Troy. At present the Cultural Reserve of Kernavė occupies a territory of 194.4 hectares and contains 18 sites and objects of archaeology, history, and culture. Vilnius Surroundings 23

built a palace in the area and the remains of this from the 16–17th century still survive, as well as the ruins of the Evangelical Reformed Church. Dubingiai was first mentioned in written sources in 1334 in descriptions of the war against the Livonian Order. According to historical studies, after the Battle of Grunwald, the Grand Duke of Lithuania Vytautas built a castle here. Later the palace was taken over by the Dukes Radvilos. In the 16th century, a Renaissance style brick church was built and the Mausoleum of Radvilos installed. The palace was also home to Barbora Radvilaitė, the wife of Sigismund Augustus (Lith. Žygimantas Augustas), the Grand Duke of Lithuania and King of Poland. In the late 17th century, when Biržai Castle became the main castle for Radvilos, Dubingiai gradually lost its significance. Yet, the view of Lake Asveja from the Mound has remained as stunning as ever. 18 | The Mound of Dubingiai Having covered 26 kilometres by road in * Dubingiai, Molėtai Distr * Tel. +370 383 54 761 the direction of Vilnius you will see a road * Open: daily. * Free of charge. sign inviting you to stop at the geographical * www. lietuvospilys.lt, www. musupaveldas.lt centre of Europe. Here you will find a memorial stone and a composition created The mound of Dubingiai is located on the by Gediminas Jakūbonis to mark Lithuania’s shore of the impressive Lake Asveja. It is a accession to the European Union. Use this peninsula and a hill at the same time, and opportunity to pay a visit to the Park of is 500 metres long and 200 metres wide. It Europe, which is just 20 kilometres from the used to be an island. The Radvilos family geographical centre of Europe.

The Mounds of Kernavė Vilnius Surroundings 24 19 | The Park of Europe 20 | Liubavas Watermill

* Joneikiškių Vlg, Vilnius Distr * Liubavas Vlg, Vilnius Distr * Tel. +370 523 77 077 * Tel. +370 5 2377 077 * Open: daily, from 10am till 2am. * Open from 15 Apr to 31 Oct,Wed-Fri, * Admission fee. * www.europosparkas.lt 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun, 10am-6pm. The stunning 55-hectare open air museum * Admission fee. * www.liubavas.lt was founded in 1991 by the sculptor Gintaras Karosas. The area of the park is rich in landscape In the manor’s Watermill-Museum, built variety: you can find hills, hollows, small ponds, from stone, you will get acquainted with etc. Together with the artistic creations they the life of the manor, full of unexpected make up an ideal union of nature and art. discoveries. There are over 100 art creations by artists The manor, the name of which is thought from 34 countries displayed in the park. The to be related to the root word for “love”, was collection of the museum contains pieces owned in earlier centuries by Duke Mikalojus created by prominent contemporary artists Radvila Rudasis (“the Red”) and other nobles. including Magdalena Abakanowicz, Sol LeWitt, The ponds of Liubavas were mentioned in Dennis Oppenheim, and Beverly Pepper. One the manor treasury book of Sigismund II of the most impressive and original creations Augustus, the ruler of Lithuania, in 1546. is the sculpture made of old TV sets, declared by the “Guinness World Records” as the largest The space where the miller once lived is sculpture of this type in the world. now occupied by the visitors centre. Other areas, containing the millstones, flour- In 2006 Gintaras Karosas was granted the sifters, the groat mill, the authentic water National Cultural Award for Advancement turbine, and the sack hoist, demonstrate the for the original idea and the creation of the variety of work performed in the mill in the park. You can explore the park by bike, as a old days. bicycle hire point is available in the park. Additionally, there is a café in the tourist Europa Nostra, the most influential centre where many visitors stop to have a movement for safeguarding Europe’s cultural meal after a walk in the countryside. and natural heritage, recognised the Liubavas Manor Watermill–Museum as one of the best After visiting The Park of Europe travel to examples of preservation of the European Liūbavas which is one of the oldest Mansons cultural heritage and the site was named a in Lithuania, situated near the river Gerėja laureate of the Prize for Cultural Heritage. (Žalesa). The Park of Europe Liubavas Mill Kaunas 25 The City of Green Hills and Medieval Churches

Kaunas Town Hall Square

Kaunas and its 21 | Town Hall Square Surroundings * Tel. +370 37 323 436 * www.kaunastic.lt Kaunas Town Hall is one of the three Kaunas is often referred to as the provisional remaining town halls in Lithuania, and is, by capital, since in 1920, after Poland had occupied the way, considered to be the most beautiful. the Vilnius region, all governmental institutions It now houses the Museum of Ceramics. were moved to Kaunas. The city only remained Every weekend brings an opportunity to see as the capital until 1939, but it kept developing an impressive array of brides in their white and refurbishing and has maintained the dresses, as the Town Hall also contains a status of a respectable capital. Now the city Marriage Chamber. is not only famous for its culture, which was To the right of the Town Hall lies The th particularly prominent in the early 20 century Archcathedral Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul but also for the much older architecture and its (Vilniaus St 1), which is the largest Neo-Classicist unique natural surroundings. This incredibly building in Lithuania. Cardinal Vincentas green city is located at the confluence of the Sladkevičius, the Lithuanian moral authority, two largest rivers in Lithuania, i.e. the Nemunas was buried in the church, while outside the river and the Neris river. Start your tour in it by church by the wall lies the mausoleum of the visiting the Town Hall Square. poet and priest Maironis. Kaunas 26

Near the Archcathedral you can see the number 28 in the Town Hall Square. It is the Jesuit Church of St. Francis Xavier (Rotušės unique Museum of the History of Medicine Sq 8). The premises of the former monastery and Pharmacy containing a 19th Century hall are located by the church. They now house and displaying numerous ancient utensils a Jesuit Gymnasium. In the 19th century, and other original exhibits. By the way, do one of the most famous poets in Lithuania not be surprised to see not only tourists but and Poland, Adam Mickiewicz (Lith. Adomas also medical students here. They also visit Mickevičius) taught in the college that was the museum to gain some knowledge of housed in the monastery. ancient medicine. You can get acquainted with Maironis, a After leaving the front door of Town Hall figure that is significant for every Lithuanian, Square walk to Aleksoto Street on your left. in a house with a beautiful Baroque gable 22 | The House of Perkūnas (Rotušės Sq 13). The poet lived in the building when he was working as the * Aleksoto St 6, Kaunas * Tel. +370 620 30 881 Rector of Kaunas Priest Seminary. Now * Open: Mon–Fri – 9am–5pm, the house contains the Maironis Museum Sat–Sun – 10am-2pm. * Free of charge. of Lithuanian Literature. In addition, in * www.perkunonamas.lt front of the building stands a monument dedicated to Maironis, which was created by Perkūnas was the supreme deity in the Gediminas Jokūbonis. Lithuanian pagan system. He was the god of thunder and the sky. A house dedicated to him In the North-western corner of the square is located in Kaunas. It is a two-storey residential is the late Renaissance style Church of the brick house, considered to be one of the most Holy Trinity and the Priest Seminary. In this beautiful and original monuments built in the church the Samogitian Bishop and writer late Gothic style in Lithuania. Particularly original Motiejus Valančius lived in 1864. Outside the is its façade: 16 types of bricks were used to seminary stands a 4-metre high monument build it. The building was given the name of dedicated to M. Valančius. The creator of the “The House of Perkūnas” after a small statue of sculpture is Leonas Žuklys. God Perkūnas was found at the beginning of th A much-loved site for visitors is house the 19 century. The House of Perkūnas Kaunas 27 The Church of Vytautas

For a long time the house belonged to private of the church was the priest Juozas Tumas- persons but after the war of 1655–1661 and Vaižgantas, a literary classic of Lithuania, the subsequent reconstruction, the building famous for his rich linguistic heritage. He is was taken over by the Jesuits. In fact, Jesuits buried in the wall of the church. own it to this day; it now houses a gymnasium. Now turn back to the Town Hall Square Additionally, lively excursions are organised and and visit yet another interesting museum. we recommend that you join one of them. After some fun there – rush down the same street to 24 | Kaunas Castle see another Kaunas masterpiece. * Pilies St 17, Kaunas * Tel. +370 37 300 672 23 | The Church of Vytautas * Open: Wed–Sat-10am-6pm, Sun-10am-4pm. * Admission fee. * www.kaunopilis.lt * Aleksoto St 3, Kaunas * Tel. +370 372 03 854 * Open: during the It is the oldest stone castle built in the service: Tue–Fri – 6pm, Sat – 10am and 6pm, Gothic style in the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Sun – 10am, 12pm and 6pm. Kaunas Castle * http://vytautine.lcn.lt

The church has an alternative name – the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary - but is usually known by the name of Vytautas the Great, possibly due to the fact that he funded the church. This is one of the oldest churches in Kaunas and in Lithuania. The church with its 28-metre-high tower was built in the early 15th century in the Early Gothic style. In 1920–1933, the rector Kaunas 28 The M. K. Čiurlionis National Art Museum M. K. Čiurlionis painting “Fairy Tail of Kings“

The castle built in 1362 possessed both inner the Lithuanian genius composer and artist. and outer walls, as well as two towers located 25 | The M. K. Čiurlionis National in the corners. The castle was surrounded by a defensive trench. When the Teutonic Knights Art Museum conquered the palace in 1362, they marked * V. Putvinskio St 55, Kaunas this victorious date in their documents. That * Tel. +370 372 29 475 * Open: Tue–Sun, 11am- was the first time the name of Kaunas was 5pm * Admission fee. * www.ciurlionis.lt mentioned in written sources. In fact the castle was reconstructed after just 40 years. The museum is rich both in creations of Unfortunately, however, only part of that castle European art and Lithuanian crafts. But perhaps survives today, as it was severely damaged the greatest value of the museum lies in the by the floods of the river Neris in the 17th–18th fact that it contains and preserves virtually all centuries. Today the circular-shaped tower the creative heritage of Mikalojus Konstantinas houses the Kaunas a branch of the city museum Čiurlionis (1875–1911), a genial Lithuanian with permanent exhibits as well as temporary artist. He was the first man in Lithuania to shows. Additionally, you can buy souvenirs in discover abstract art and, in search of a unique the tower. In the yard of the castle impressive Lithuanian style, combined music with open air concerts and theatre performances painting, i.e. reflected painting in music and take place. painted music. Having listened to fine music in the castle, The museum stores 220 paintings, 52 don’t forget to visit the museum dedicated to pieces of graphic art, 10 albums of drawings, The M. K. Čiurlionis National Art Museum Kaunas 29 Žaliakalnis Funicular be welcomed by staff dressed in the clothing of interwar Lithuania. In the upper station is the exhibition of photographs which is renewed every month. Žaliakalnis’ funicular is one of the oldest means of transport of its kind still used in Europe. It is very convenient not only to reach the top of the hill but also to enjoy panoramic views of the green city. Your journey in Kaunas has so far been on foot, so it’s now time to jump into a car and explore its spectacular surroundings. Just 10 kilometres away you will come to the photographs by Čiurlionis, and rich archival architectural complex of Pažaislis, located on data. In the Music Hall the records of Čiurlionis’ the shores of Kaunas Reservoir. Its beauty will creations are played constantly. In addition, the definitely captivate you. museum hosts piano music concerts. Various educational programmes are offered that will 27 | Pažaislis Monastery allow you to explore the mystical world of Čiurlionis’ paintings, to hear him in music, and * T. Masiulio St 31, Kaunas * Tel. +370 374 58 868 even to see him in an animated film. * Open: Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm, Sat, 10am–4pm * Admission fee. It is now time for a ride. Come and try the * www.pazaislis.org oldest funicular in Europe! The complex of the Church of the Visitation of 26 | Žaliakalnis Funicular the Blessed Virgin Mary and the Camaldolese Monastery is rich in decorations and * Aušros St 6, Kaunas. * Tel. +370 374 25 882 * Open: Mon-Fri, 7am–7pm, Sat-Sun, 9am-7pm Pažaislis Monastery * Admission fee. * http://visit.kaunas.lt

It has been 80 years that the residents of Kaunas have used a funicular to ascend the high hill of Žaliakalnis. The vehicle was built in the third decade of the last century. In fact, President Antanas Smetona himself oversaw construction. According to recorded data, by 1937 1.4 million people had used the funicular. It is still popular today: around 400–600 passengers use it every day. The cars move at a speed of 2 m/s and the whole trip takes 1 minute and 38 seconds. In 1992 the funicular was repaired and regained its original appearance from 1931. In the cars you will hear music specially created to be played in the funicular by Giedrius Kuprevičius, a composer from Kaunas. Additionally, you will Kaunas Surroundings 30 grandure. The beauty of the Monastery was the baptism of Netimeras and the martyrdom praised throughout the whole of Europe and, of Saint Bruno. Describing the death of Saint as a result, was visited by numerous historical Bruno, German chroniclers mentioned the figures including Charles I of Sweden, and Tsars name of Lithuania for the first time thus Alexander I and Nicolas I of Russia. The latter was making the date acquire vital importance in the so impressed by the splendour of the church history of Lithuania. that he awarded 130,000 Roubles so that the Yet the artistic value of the buildings is not church could be renovated and turned into an the only factor to have determined the fame Orthodox church. of the church and the monastery. Every year The foundation stone of the church was on July 2 crowds of pilgrims would arrive to the sanctified in 1667; however, its consecration feast day to see the miraculous painting “The only took place in 1712. The complex was Mother of Beautiful Love”. For 15 years the designed by an Italian architect, Giovanni monastery has been home to the international Battista Frediani, and decorated with plaster annual Pažaislis Music Festival held in summer, casts by the sculptors of Lombardy, and with which is highly ranked at an international level. the frescoes of Michelangelo Palloni, a master This year the festival starts in May. from Florence. The interior of the Baroque It is now time for you to explore folk church, which contains the mausoleum of its architecture. On the way to Vilnius you will founder Krzysztof Pac (Lith. Kristupas Pacas) pass the village of Rumšiškės, just 12 kilometres Chancellor of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, away. is decorated with marble of different colours, impressive woodcarvings, valuable images, and 140 frescoes. Eleven of them depict the IMPORTANT TO SEE mission of Saint Bruno in Lithuania 1000 years ago. The painting “The Mother of The frescoes in the corridor to the sacristy Beautiful Love”; were painted at the end of the 17th century by The wood carvings in the sacristy; Michelangelo Palloni. He depicted the arrival The Mausoleum of Krzysztof Pac. of the monk (Saint Bruno) in Lithuania in 1009, Pažaislis Monastery Kaunas Surroundings 31 28 | Open Air Museum of Lithuania EVENTS IN RUMŠIŠKĖS * L. Lekavičiaus St 2, Rumšiškės, Kaišiadorys Distr * Tel. +370 346 47 233 * Interior exhibits are open for viewing You definitely have to attend 1 May–15 Oct, Mon-Sun (10am–6pm). From at least one of the events that the 16 October–31 April, the outdoor exhibits of museum has to offer. You can choose the Museum remain available for viewing, from educational events of the as a park.* Admission fee. * www.llbm.lt national customs, crafts workshops, The museum invites you to travel back in time or traditional festivals. Lithuanians still and discover the region’s past. You can do this preserve their traditions and celebrate whilst becoming familiar with the heritage of many holidays and religious festivals Lithuanian rural life from the period of the late according to ancient customs. The 18th to the early 19th century. key celebrations are listed below. In February the main celebration is The open air museum by the banks of the Užgavėnės (Shrove Tuesday), a day Kaunas Reservoir, opened in 1974, occupies when everyone makes pancakes, when an area of 195 hectares. The museum people in masks travel from door to door contains around 140 buildings with asking for treats, and when the symbol restored original interiors and surroundings of the winter – Morė – is burned. April as monuments of folk architecture. The is the month of the most important collection is arranged in such a way that the spring celebration – Easter. In Lithuania buildings represent the main ethnographic it is a special celebration: everyone, regions of Lithuania: each region has its own starting with little kids and ending with authentic farmsteads with their own tools, their grandmothers, decorates eggs. implements, household items, and clothes. Due to the unique decoration methods that have been inherited, the artistry is Rumšiškės is the last site in your route impressive and you may perhaps never in and around Kaunas, the city of green see anything of this kind elsewhere in hills and medieval churches. But it is a very the world. In May you are invited to the convenient place from which to head for festival “Čia visa Lietuva”. June is the Panemunė and get acquainted with the month of Midsummer or, in Lithuanian much older history of Lithuania. – Joninės (St John’s Day), a night when thousands of fires are burnt and people dance until morning. July includes two celebrations: Saint Anne’s Day and the Rye Harvest Festival. August 15 marks the celebration of Žolinė (Meadow Grass Celebration or Herbal Holiday), universally known as the Day of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. On this day the newly harvested ryes, barley, oats, etc are blessed. In September Rumšiškės holds the celebration of the Day of Crafts. Central Lithuania 32

This route lies along the right bank of the The Route of river Nemunas, the longest river in Lithuania. You will be astonished by the rich array of Castles Along the castles and mounds situated on the route and by the stunning panoramas opening up from Nemunas River them. In addition, the legends surrounding all these sites will add to the incredible experience. When you reach Kėdainiai, don’t be surprised that the Catholic area transforms into the area known as the Cradle of Reformation. Central Lithuania Start your trip by visiting the Mound of Veliuona. 29 | Veliuona Mound

* Veliuona, Jurbarkas distr. * Tel. +370 447 70 153 * http://tic.sesupe.lt, www.jurbarkotic.lt

Located at the confluence of the Nemunas and Veliuonėlė rivers on a 30-metre high hill lie two mounds: Gediminas Grave Hill and Pilies (Castle) Hill. On the 32-metre high Pilies mound the castle of Junigeda used to stand. The castle was regularly attacked by the Teutonic Order. The fighting stopped just after the Battle of Grunwald (1410). It was then that the Vytautas, the Grand Duke of Lithuania built a new brick castle on the mound which, unfortunately, has not survived. Over a 17-metre-deep defensive trench lies the Gediminas Grave Hill. The stone sacrifice altar on it is a mark of pagan times (the period before Christianization in 1387). Pagans believed that the ghosts and their Central Lithuania 33 Raudonė Castle deity Veliona lived in the underworld and protected the fertility of the land and animals. During the vernal (spring) and autumnal equinoxes people would give offerings to the deity and the ghosts as well as lighting a fire on the altar as a sign of worship. According to another legend, the Grand Duke of Lithuania Gediminas died while defending Veliuona Castle. This is the same man who had a dream of iron wolves howling, which turned out to be a prophetic sign and resulted in the founding of Vilnius. According 30 | Raudonė Castle to the legend, Gediminas was buried at the place of his death and in his honour the locals * Raudonė, Jurbarkas Distr built a large mound; hence the name of the * Tel. +370 447 70201* Open: Gediminas Grave Hill. There is a memorial Apr 15–Oct 15, Mon–Sun (10am–4pm). obelisk on the hill dedicated to the Duke. * www.jurbarkotic.lt, http://tic.sesupe.lt If you cover 11 more kilometres along the The castle was built in the 16th century. It has Nemunas river, you will reach the town of been owned by numerous people, damaged Raudonė. It is located in two “layers”: the upper by recurrent fires but was rebuilt every time and lower terrace of the river Nemunas. The until 1944, when Germans demolished its great town is separated by the river Raudonė, hence tower, which, when falling, destroyed part of the its name. Having reached the upper terrace by a castle’s southern wing. In the post-war period steep road you will see the stunning castle. the tower and the destroyed section were rebuilt and the castle started housing a school. IMPORTANT TO SEE The red towers of the castle are particularly spectacular at dusk, while the 33.5-metre- high tower serves as an observation platform The Monument to Vytautas the opening up spectacular panoramas of the Great in Veliuona; Nemunas and its surroundings. Additionally, The Monument to the 700th the park of the castle contains a 200-year-old anniversary of Veliuona; 1.4 metre diameter chestnut tree. The Stone with a footprint; The Observation platform of the Nemunas valley; Veliuona Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (1644) and the permanent exhibition of the sacral art; Veliuona Manor House and The History Museum of Veliuona Region; Veliuona Inn. Central Lithuania 34 Panemunė Castle Gelgaudas died in battle and, as a result, the building became derelict. The valuable collection of the library, as well as its gallery paintings were taken to Russia. Nevertheless, the five cascade ponds, the hilly landscape, and the stunning walls of the castle leave an unforgettable impression on visitors.

Leaving Panemunė behind, you will have to pass Raseiniai. 100 kilometres separate you from Kėdainiai. 32 | Evangelical Reformed Church

* Senoji St 1, Kėdainiai * Tel. +370 347 53 685, +370 347 51 330 * Open: May–Sept, Thu-Sat – 11am–5pm, Oct-Apr - upon agreement in advance. * Admission fee. * www.kedainiumuziejus.lt

The landmark of the Old Town of Kėdainiai is the Evangelical Reformed Church, built in 1631–1652 by the noblemen Krzysztof Radziwiłł II (Lith. Kristupas II Radvila) and his son Drive 14 kilometres more, again along the Janusz Radziwiłł XI (Lith. Janušas XI Radvila). Nemunas river and yet another castle by the In fact the church looks more like a castle road appears in front of you. than a church. At the time it was the largest church in Central Lithuania and Samogitia. The 31 | Panemunė Castle church houses the mausoleum of the Radziwiłł family and is the only restored tomb site of * Pilies 1-asis kaimas (Pilies 1st village), 17th-century noblemen of the Grand Duchy of Jurbarkas Distr * Tel. +370 689 93 185 * www.jurbarkotic.lt Lithuania in the state. In the ornate Renaissance and Baroque sarcophagi located in the crypt The castle is believed to have taken lie Vilnius’ Voivodes and the great Hetmans its name from the Manor of Panemunė, Evangelical Reformed Church which was acquired in the 16th century by a Hungarian nobleman, Janušas Eperješas. He later (in 1610) built a mansion-house. The Castle of Panemunė has features of the Renaissance epoch, yet in some places still retaining elements of the Gothic style.

In the 18th century the Castle was purchased by the Gelgaudai family. The new owners remodelled the building in the style of Classicism. However, in 1831, its owner Antanas Central Lithuania 35 Kėdainiai Church of Evangelical Reformats

Krzysztof Radziwiłł “The Thunderbolt” (Lith. known as the Great Synagogue was built. Kristupas Radvila Perkūnas) (1547–1603) and Now it is one of the two surviving Baroque Janusz Radziwiłł (Lith. Jonušas Radvila) (1612– synagogues in Lithuania. The famous Jewish 1655). The crypt also contains the restored tin thinker Gaon Eliyahu studied here in the 18th sarcophagi of the two preadolescent brothers century. Now the Great Synagogue houses a and the sister of Janusz Radziwiłł. Children’s School of Art. th Come to the bar “Grėjaus namas” located on In the 19 century, another synagogue the Street of Didžioji and taste a Scottish dish. – The Small Synagogue – was built. In fact, Before you pay a visit you should know that one of the wings in this building was used as Scottish people were attracted to Kėdainiai, a cell for Jewish offenders. Now the Classicist- the Lithuanian centre of Protestantism, by style building holds a permanent exhibition the nobleman Janusz Radziwiłł. He invited of the Jewish community and the holocaust merchants and craftsmen and ensured that in Kėdainiai. The building also houses a they had excellent conditions for successful Multicultural Centre where exhibitions, businesses. classical and jazz concerts, meetings with artists, seminars, book presentations and 33 | The Synagogues of Kėdainiai other educational events are held. During World War II, the Jewish * Senoji rinka 12, Kėdainiai community in Kėdainiai was destroyed, as * Tel. +370 347 51 778 * Open: Tue–Sat, were all the Jewish buildings. In the summer 10am–5pm. * Admission fee. of 1941 the Old Market Square was attached * www.kedainiumuziejus.lt, www.kedainiutvic.lt to the ghetto and thus became part of it, Jewish people started settling in the Square while the Great Synagogue was turned into of Kėdainiai, also known as Senoji rinka (The horse stables. Old Market), in the 17th century. Gradually The route of Central Lithuania is over in they completely took over this part of the Kėdainai. Get ready to explore another region city. In the late 17th century, a synagogue – your journey continues in Aukštaitija. Aukštaitija Region 36

The Land of the Thousand Lakes

woods, ancient wooden villages and – in Aukštaitija Region areas further to the north – luxurious manor houses and castles. The area features a When you travel in Aukštaitija, its lakes will narrow gauge railway, which is still in use definitely captivate you. Vast and tiny, deep and for tourist purposes, whereas astronomers shallow, azure and navy-blue – the shimmering invite you to explore the stars. While pleasing lakes charm every visitor. Aside from lakes, the eye don’t forget to please the stomach the surrounding countryside contains shady too. Aukštaičiai people are renowned for their

The Church of Palūšė Aukštaitija Region 37 The Museum of Ancient Beekeeping

hospitality and they especially like to treat their Stop on your way by a hill, popularly known visitors to home-made beer. But be careful as as Ladakalnis, and look out from the top to the not only is it delicious but also extra strong! spectacular Land of Lakes. Start your trip in the National Park of 35 | The Museum of Ancient Aukštaitija. Visit interesting sites while at the Beekeeping same time enjoying refreshing swims in the abundant lakes that Aukštaitija’s lands are * Stripeikiai, Ignalina Distr dotted with. Ignalina and Palūšė are separated * Tel. +370 686 12105 by just 6 kilometres. * Open: May–Sept, Tue–Sun (10am–7pm). * Admission fee. * www.ignalinatic.lt. 34 | The Church of Palūšė Among dense forests, on the two splendid * Palūšė, Ignalina Distr hills with the river Tauragna winding its * Tel. +370 386 47 430, +370 615 21 401 way from the largest lake in Lithuania, Lake * Open: Sun, 12pm. * www.paluse.lt Tauragnas, below lies a farmstead. Upon arrival, One of the most attractive places in you will be greeted by a majestic oak-tree Lithuania contains a little wooden church with sculpture of the Lithuanian god of bees Babilas. a belfry built in the late 18th century. It is said to Babilas’ mouth is always full of bees: some flying away for the nectar, others – coming back with have been built only using an axe and no nails! it. This is because a beehive has been installed In the 19th century the church was renovated. in the mouth of Babilas’ sculpture. The slopes of In the 20th century Jonas Petrauskas, the father the hill contain ancient beehives that were used of the famous composers Kipras Petrauskas from the 15th to the early 20th century. Close to and Mikas Petrauskas, worked as an organist the museum, at the edge of a wood, bees are in the church. Finally, the Church of Palūšė is housed in a fir trunk. In the ancient house you distinguished as it was featured on the 1 Lita can see bee-keeping tools and wax candles. banknote! On the other side of the river lies a barn, which Further ahead the route will bring you along was a shrine of the pagan goddess of bees sandy forest paths to the beekeepers. To reach Austėja as well as a sacred stone with a bowl. them you will have to cover 19 kilometres. Nearby lies an altar stone, where sacred fire is set Aukštaitija Region 38 Rokiškis Manor House to honour Gabija, the Lithuanian goddess of fire and hearth and a protector of home and family. There is a bar at the museum; you can also buy honey and midus, a traditional strong alcoholic beverage that only Lithuanians know how to make. Now it’s time to turn towards Utena, with 64 kilometres to go until you reach the V. Valiušis Ceramics Museum. 36 | Vytautas Valiušis Ceramics Museum a wheel, and the third is for firing pottery in a * Topolių St 7, Leliūnai, Utena Distr kiln. Seize the opportunity to sit down at the * Tel. +370 615 49525, +370 686 22807 wheel and throw your very first pot! * Open: Tue–Sat, 10am–6pm. * Admission fee. 37 | Rokiškis Manor House * www.utenosmuziejus.lt * Tyzenhauzų Ave 5, Rokiškis Folk artist Vytautas Valiušis, having earned * Tel. +370 458 52 261, +370 615 44 586 the title of King of Lithuania’s Potters, * Open: Tue–Sun, 10am–6pm. established an unusual Ceramics Museum * Admission fee. in 2001. The Museum’s exhibit areas display * www.muziejusrokiskyje.lt about 700 authentic examples of old ceramics. This manor house has preserved the Some of the exhibits are proudly lined up on environment of the Counts Tyzenhauz. Just shelves, others can be viewed on sideboards, like in their times, concerts of chamber and still others have been carefully laid out on music, meetings and other events are held a pile of stones. They include mugs, tiles, pots in the house. The manor house even displays and cups, jars, ornate pitchers, jugs for wine authentic clothes of the Counts, including and oil, and so on. Three renovated spaces dresses by the famous Coco Chanel. have been set up in the workshops of the Ceramics Museum: one for learning how to The palace was built at the beginning use plastic-forming to make pottery, another of the 19th century at the request of for learning how to make thrown pottery on Count Ignacy Tyzenhauz (Lith. Ignotas Vytautas Valiušis Ceramics Museum Tyzenhauzas). In addition to the manor house, a majestic park with huge ponds was also established. The world famous ornithologist Konstantinas Tyzanhauzas, who inherited the manor house, established a laboratory of natural sciences in the park.

Now the complex houses The Rokiškis Regional Museum. Its collection consists of more than 80,000 exhibits. Among them are archaeological findings, ancient books, documents and printings, collections of Aukštaitija Region 39 Biržai Castle

coins, pieces of both fine and applied arts, 38 | Biržai Castle and the archival data of the manor house. It is worth paying a visit to the manor house * Radvilos St 3, Biržai * Tel. +370 450 33 390; +370 450 31 883 if only because of the unprecedented * Open: winter: Wed–Sat – 9am–6.30pm, Museum of Christmas Cribs and the unique Sun – 9am–4.30pm, summer: Wed–Sat – carvings by Lionginas Šepka. He is the 10am–6.30pm, Sun– 10am–5.30pm. most prominent woodcarving master in * Admission fee. * www.birzumuziejus.lt Lithuania in his works mainly feature a religious theme. The Castle marks the two most important wars in the history of Lithuania: Now go to Biržai. The drive is 65 the 17th century war with Sweden and kilometres. You will explore another the 18th century Great Northern War. The magnificent castle in the town. construction of the castle began in 1586

Biržai Castle Interior Biržai Castle Sculptures Aukštaitija Region 40 Pakruojis Manor House

at the request of hetman Mikołaj Krzysztof careful as the beer of the region is famous Radziwiłł “The Thunderbolt” (Lith. Mykalojus for its strength! Drink driving is forbidden Kristupas Radvila Perkūnas). in Lithuania, you should therefore take care of transportation to get to Pakruojis, which Among the remains that have survived to is located 67 kilometres from Biržai. The this day, are the defensive system of mounds site that you are targeting in Pakruojis is an and water ditches. The rest of the castle was impressive manor house. rebuilt in the late 20th century. It now houses the Museum of Biržai Region “Sėla”. Among But if the strong beer has made you dizzy, the exhibits on display are the archaeological take a walk on the 525-metre long bridge findings of the Castle and the Old Town. May – one of the longest bridges in Lithuania. see the only restored, authentic 17th century Across the lake it leads to the splendid tile stove in Lithuania. Astravas manor house of the Counts Tiškevičiai. Don’t forget to visit the unique permanent exhibition “Senoji aludarystė” (Ancient Beer 39 | Pakruojis Manor House Brewing) and take part in the educational programme for adults only “Žaldoko alus” * Parko St 5, Pakruojis Vlg, Pakruojis Distr (Žaldokas’ beer). You will get acquainted * Tel. +370 612 615 84, +370 421 61 584 with the ancient devices and tools of beer * Open: Mon-Fr, 9am–6pm, Sat-Sun, brewing, experience the hospitality of 10am-6pm.* Admission free of charge. aukštaičiai (literary, highlanders) and will learn a couple of drinking-songs. But be The house of the Baron von Ropp family is situated just 2 kilometres from Pakruojis. The complex of the Manor House is featured in the Book of Lithuanian Records as the largest protected manor house. It was built between 1817 and 1840. The complex is surrounded by a huge English-style park. There are numerous barn houses near the manor house, as well as an arch bridge, which has become the symbol of Pakruojis. There is a dam on the river Kruoja and a water mill, too. The landmark of the impressive complex is Aukštaitija Region 41 Panevėžys Civic Art Gallery 40 | Panevėžys Civic Art Gallery

* Panevėžys Civic Art Gallery * Respublikos St 3, Panevėžys * Tel.: +370 45 584802 * Open: Wed-Sun, 11am-6pm * Admission fee * www.arspanevezys.lt

At the Panevėžys Civic Art Gallery, you can see not only works of art by artists living in the Aukštaitija region of Lithuania, but also by artists from across Lithuania and abroad. Each year the Gallery, established in 1990, organises more than 20 solo and group shows of various genres. The Gallery has collected more than 600 works of fire clay ceramics, created by 143 artists from 32 countries. Along with this unique collection, which each year grows with the addition of new exhibits, more than 3,000 books, publications, and the most varied visual the ornate two-storey palace. A rich array of materials about world ceramics have been materials was used to decorate the interior, collected. starting with hunting trophies and ending The Gallery organises international ceramics with crystal chandeliers. symposia, during which conferences are held. During each symposium’s concluding In addition to seeing the Manor House of exhibition, one may see all of the works that Pakruojis, you can also stay in the house and were created during that symposium. have a meal at the 19th century inn. At weekends and holidays the miller of the manor house Next, travel to Anykščiai. There, it is well worth organises entertainment events, treating visitors taking a ride on the narrow-gauge railway. to the dishes from the heritage of the Northern 41 | Aukštaitija’s Narrow-Gauge Lithuania’s gastronomy and invites you to taste the local beer. You will also meet the legendary Railway Line dog Alšis. It joined a group of Lithuanian tourists * Vilties St 2, Anykščiai. * Tel. +370 610 36085; in Belorussia, who were riding 2,000 kilometres * Reservations are taken by telephone: to the Black Sea to commemorate and “simulate” +370 381 5597; +370 620 18243 * May-Oct, the crusade of Vytautas, the Lithuanian Duke. Mon-Sun 9am-5pm; Nov-Apr, Wed-Sun, The second storey of the inn houses The 9am-1pm and 2pm-5pm. * Admission fee. Museum of Tadas Blinda, a Lithuanian folk hero * www.siaurukas.eu who fought the rich nobles. If the beer has not made you too drunk, take the unique opportunity to enjoy a ride on the narrow gauge railway. For that you will need to reach Panevėžys, which is 50 kilometres away. From Pakruojis, turn towards Panevėžys, just 50 km away. Aukštaitija Region 42 St. Matas Church

The 75-cm wide railway has been operating in The narrow-gauge railway museum is located Lithuania for more than a hundred years. This at the Anykščiai railway station. narrow gauge railway was very important both You can also book combined trips, i.e. you during World War I and in the interwar period. cover part of the route by the narrow gauge In Soviet times, up to 24 trains per day would railway, and the other part by bike. Having run on this line. left Panevėžys, the train stops at the station After the restoration of the independence of Bajoriškės. From there you can ride a bike of Lithuania, the narrow gauge railway to the Manor House of Raguvėlė, situated 7 became part of “Lietuvos geležinkeliai” kilometres away. You can return to Panevėžys (Lithuanian Railway). Now it only admits using the narrow gauge railway. tourists and takes them on a 68.4 km ride along the Panevėžys-Anykščiai-Rubikiai line. Having had a good time and pleased the You can choose a regular ride or even book stomach, you may wish to have a rest in a an entertaining theatricalised excursion peaceful and picturesque town of Anykščiai, featuring some well-known characters. Every located on the bank of the River Šventoji. year, on the third Thursday in November, 42 | Angels Museum when the world celebrates Beaujolais Day, the narrow gauge railway takes visitors to * A. Vienuolio St 4, Anykščiai taste young wine at the Troškūnai Monastery. * Tel. +370 381 58015, +370 381 52922, +370 381 52912, * Open: Jul-Aug, 9am-6pm, Sep-Jun, 8am-5pm.* Admission fee. * www.anyksmc.lt The Angel Museum is the newest museum in Anykščiai, collecting a host of heavenly creatures-angels. The artists who made them gave them the most varied of forms; you will see angels that have been crocheted, made from clay, or even painted. The Museum’s Aukštaitija Region 43

collection at present holds more than 200 bričkelė or lineika) and take a 12-kilometre angels. Having visited the Angel Museum, ride in the picturesque surroundings along the make the effort to ascend to the observation river Šventoji. deck of the tallest twin-steepled church in The unique Museum of the Horse in Lithuania Lithuania, where you can take in a bird’s eye was established by the agriculture professor view of the city. Petras Vasinauskas (1906–1995). You can learn It is worth visiting one more special practically everything about horses here, from museum whitch is only 7 kilometers from the roots of their existence to the structure of Anykščiai after visiting those two. their bodies. Do you know how to determine the age of a horse? By looking at its teeth! The 43 | Horse Museum guide at the museum will kindly tell you this and other interesting facts. * Niūronys Vlg, Anykščiai Distr * Tel. +370 381 51 722, +370 623 70 629 A horse riding competition and a traditional For educational lessons, contact: festival “Bėk bėk, žirgeli!” is held annually by the Nijolė Kačkuvienė , tel. 8 616 25 124, museum in June. Aside from this event, there Rita Vasiliauskienė, tel. 8 612 69 545 are plenty of other activities to engage in: learn * Open: May–Aug, 9am–6pm, Sep–Apr, 9am– to bake bread in an authentic house typical 5pm. * Admission fee. * www.arkliomuziejus.lt Bread Baking Museums displaying live exhibits are not so numerous in Europe. This museum includes some enormous exhibits. Horses have been kept in Niūronys since 1980. They are taken care of by the students of the Anykščiai School of Agriculture. Visitors are allowed to try horseback riding within the area of the museum. If you don’t feel like riding a horse yourself, get into a cart (local dialect Aukštaitija Region 44 The Museum of Ethno-Cosmology You will not find anything else of this kind elsewhere in the world. This unique museum is devoted to exploring man’s relation to the cosmic world. This is where the idea of ethno-cosmology came into being. Many visitors have been interested and inquired about the nature of human existence in such a vast universe and its meaning. Now one can get answers to of the Aukštaitija region, try making dipped such questions in this impressive museum, candles or decorating eggs. Additionally, the the establishment of which required owners of the house always treat visitors to rural an investment of 6.4 million Euros. The delicacies, including bread, honey, cheese, and museum holds one of the largest telescopes lašiniai (slabs of smoked pork underskin fat). for public use in Europe. Its main mirror is 80 cm in diameter. Now head in the direction of Utena. 28 kilometres away, you will see an arrow pointing Along with observing the stars you the way to the Museum of Ethnocosmology. can also watch the Sun. For this purpose The distance from Niūronys to the museum is specific telescopes with solar filters can be 72 kilometres. used. Excursions are held both during the day and at night. Certainly, good weather 44 | The Museum of Ethno- is of key importance. Cosmology This is the end of your route in * Kulionių Vlg, Molėtų Distr * Tel. +370 383 45 424 Aukštaitija. 76 kilometres remain in order * Open all day, winter - Mon-Sat; summer. to return to Vilnius. Tue-Sat.* Admission fee, reservation is

required. * www.cosmos.lt The Museum of Ethno-Cosmology South Lithuania 45 The Route of Legends and Heroes The Mound of Birštonas or the Hill of Vytautas

legends is at the tops of the stunning mounds. Southern While wandering in the forests, don’t forget to visit a unique village, where people preserve Lithuania – Dzūkija the ancient lifestyle and do not care for 21st century advancements. And don’t forget to and Suvalkija take a basket for mushrooms – the area boasts plenty of boletuses. In no other place but Dzūkija will you Driving from Vilnius on the Marijampolė hear as many legends and stories about the road, a sign 90 kilometres away will invite heroic achievements throughout the history you to Birštonas – one of the most beautiful of Lithuania. All the stories and legends are resort towns in Lithuania. A stay in the town worth hearing: indeed the valiant men from is particularly lovely in autumn, with peaceful this region were always the first to defend their pleasant walks listening to the sounds of maple land from enemies. The best place to hear the leaves under your feet. At the outskirts of the town you can exercise by climbing another high mound, locally known as The Hill of Vytautas. 45 | The Mound of Birštonas or the Hill of Vytautas

* Birštonas * Tel. + 370 319 65 740 * Open daily. * www.visitbirstonas.lt

The Hill of Vytautas has splendid views of the river Nemunas, its slope, and the surrounding forests as it is one of the highest South Lithuania 46 highest mounds in Lithuania reaching 40 Kaunas, made up the main defensive system of metres in height. the country. Merkinė was the key strategic site by the Nemunas river in the battles against the At the end of the 18th century, the area Livonian Order. Unfortunately, in 1391 the castle contained a wooden castle as part of the was occupied by the Teutonic order. defensive system of the Duchy of Trakai and one of the hunting mansions of the Grand After taking in the breathtaking views of Duke of Lithuania Vytautas. Surrounded by the surrounding countryside, go to Zervynos deep trenches and ravines, swampy wetlands, passing through Varėna, also known as the a mound, and lower fortifications, the castle “capital of mushrooms”. Having driven 45 endured numerous attacks by the Teutonic kilometres, you will have the experience of Order but was never captured. Unfortunately, travelling back in time by finding a village that today the story is part of the heroic history of looks exactly the same as Lithuanian villages did Lithuania. 200 years ago. Lithuania’s resorts are famous for their treatments using natural materials and their 47 | The Village of Zervynos long-cultivated traditions. * Zervynos Vlg, Varėna Distr Leaving Birštonas go via Alytus to Merkinė. * Tel. +370 310 57 245 * www.dzukijosparkas.lt Having covered 65 kilometres you will be charmed by the captivating surroundings. The village containing 48 homesteads is a unique forest settlement that has preserved 46 | The Mound of Merkinė its architectural character of the 18th–19th centuries. The local people retained the * Merkinė, Varėna Distr unique buildings as well as their traditions * www.cepkeliai-dzukija.lt, and customs: on All Souls’ Day they light fires * www.musupaveldas.lt in the cemetery. The village has not been At the confluence of the rivers Merkys and affected by land reforms and has preserved Nemunas sits a large mound. It is surrounded by its original layout, which is acknowledged as the valleys of the Nemunas and Stangė rivers, the most valuable aspect of the site. The farm whereas its northern side is separated from the houses are aligned to the street, running further highlands by a deep hollow. There used in a narrow strip between the slopes and to be a castle on the top of the mound which the valley of the Ūla river. All the houses in in the 14th–15th century, alongside Vilnius and Zervynos are wooden. There are five crosses

The Mound of Merkinė The Village of Zervynos South Lithuania 47 Grūtas Park fragments of prison camps, which are exactly the same as those used in Siberia where 130 thousand Lithuanians were exiled. There is a café in which you can try some Soviet meals. They are served in Soviet-era dishes, which will definitely surprise you. For those who do not fancy Soviet food, the café offers different dishes containing mushrooms – the renowned goodies of the Dzūkija region. The club-reading room contains a restored election campaign centre. It is an example of a typical Soviet cultural institution of the interwar period in that its interior contains pictures of Stalin and Lenin, communist slogans, and literature. These interior attributes were mandatory in all the institutions of the time. The permanent exhibition ends with a hall similar to those used in the Soviet era to show movies, to built in the settlement. In addition, the hold meetings or house a library of Soviet Oak of Zervynos and the pine trees with books. hollows for bees have been declared natural monuments. Grūtas Park also contains a small zoo with both local and exotic birds, and a few deer Enjoy a walk on the sandy paths of Zervynos, and boars. wade in the waters of the Ūla river, pick mushrooms and then set off to Druskininkai Having seen the Soviet-era sculptures, go passing the village of Marcinkonys. Don’t forget Grūtas Park to stop on your way to visit Grūtas Park. The time-travelling continues – this time it takes you 50 years back. The distance from Zervynos to Grūtas is 45 kilometres. 48 | Grūtas Park

* Grūtas, Druskininkai * Tel. +370 313 55 511, +370 682 42 320 * Open: daily, from 9am to twilight. * Admission fee. * www.grutoparkas.lt

In the swampy forest of Dzūkija, close to Druskininkai, an area of 20 hectares houses 86 statues of Soviet-period figures; the sculptures were taken down from the squares of Lithuanian cities. You will see Lenin, Joseph Stalin, Vincas Kapsukas, an important Lithuanian Soviet figure, and many other familiar historical figures. The park displays watchtowers and the South Lithuania 48 The Memorial Museum of M. K. Čiurlionis 1896–1910. In the two houses the authentic interior and domestic items have been restored. The two other buildings house a permanent exhibition displaying his creative output, biography, and family history. If you visit the site in summer, don’t miss the chance to attend one of the concerts of “Druskininkų vasara su M. K. Čiurlioniu” (Druskininkai Summer with M.K. Čiurlionis). In June the place is crowded with young people who take part in the study week organised by the publishing house “Baltos lankos”. Finally, in August the city holds on to the wonderful resort of Druskininkai, the festival “Muzika be sienų” (Music without which is just 4 kilometers away. Plunge into Borders). a world of music and painting, and relax When walking in the city, stop by the in the rustling of the leaves. Alongside monument of Čiurlionis created by the sculptor national acclaim, the resort is now known Vladas Vildžiūnas, for which the artist was internationally too. Its treatment and awarded the national prize. Now let’s go further. SPA centres, excellent hotels and top Another site to capture the eye as well as the quality services are much loved by tourists of heart is only 12 kilometres away. neighbouring countries. 50 | Liškiava Apart from the captivating natural surroundings, Druskininkai has gained * Varėna Distr * Tel. +370 616 75 517, fame because of its globally acknowledged +370 614 67 478 * Open: Tue–Sun, artists. It is the hometown of such prominent 10am–12pm and 2pm–4pm. * www.liskiava.lt figures as the modernist sculptor Jacquess Liškiava Church Lipchitz and the artist and composer Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis. 49 | The Memorial Museum of M. K. Čiurlionis

* M. K. Čiurlionio St 35, Druskininkai * Tel. +370 313 52 755 * Open: Tue–Sun (11am–5pm). * Admission fee. * www.muziejai.mch.mii.lt, www.druskininkai.lt

Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis (1875–1911) was the first composer and artist who searched for the Lithuanian style and who managed to penetrate into and reflect the depths of the nation’s spirit. He was the man who combined music with painting, a symbolist who pioneered in revealing the charm of abstract art. The Museum was established in 1963 in his parents’ home, where the artist lived from South Lithuania 49 Liškiava Church Interior Returning from Liškiava it is recommended to travel via Leipalingis to reach Kapčiamiestis. This makes 35 kilometres in total. You are going to hear an unbelievable and shocking story. 51 | Emilija Pliaterytė Museum in Kapčiamiestis

* Taikos St 11, Kapčiamiestis, Lazdijai Distr * Tel. +370 633 30102 * Open in summer: Jurgis Kosyla, who lived with his wife Tue–Thu, 9am–5pm; Fri–Sat, 9am–4pm. Kristina in Liškiava 314 years ago, left all their in other seasons, Mon-Thu, 9am-5pm; Fri, property in his will to Dominican monks on 9am-4pm * Admission fee. * www.lazdijumuziejus.lt condition that having arrived from Seinai, they would build a church of the Holy Trinity and The Lithuanian Jeanne d’Arc – this is the a monastery and that they would start living name often used by historians to refer to there. The Dominicans fulfilled the wish of the the Countess Emilija Pliaterytė, who led founder and as a result the village now houses the uprising against Tsarist Russia in 1831. a finecomplex of the Late Baroque period. Although the uprising was quickly suppressed The buildings are decorated with frescoes and Emilija died of exhaustion, Lithuanians created by Italian craftsmen, 7 altarpieces, still mention her name with great dignity. authentic benches with Dominican intarsias, The heroine is buried in the cemetery of and 18-19th century paintings. The complex has Kapčiamiestis, which contains a monument been restored, and visitors can stay overnight dedicated to her. Much more information and participate in the various events that are about the heroine is provided in the museum. organised here. The Monument of Emilija Pliaterytė By the way, the village contains four monuments of archaeology: a mound, the Church Hill, the stone containing a footprint of an ox and the so-called “Stone of Witches”, and the ruins of the 14-15th century castle tower. Don’t forget to see them all. A popular attraction in summer is a journey by boat from Druskininkai.

IMPORTANT TO SEE

The Church basement with the bodies of monks; The permanent exhibition of the liturgical heritage; The Village; The Mound. South Lithuania 50 Paežeriai Manor House

This is the last attraction of the route 52 | Paežeriai Manor and in the hilly lands of Dzūkija. You can go Vilkaviškis Regional Museum back to Vilnius: if you drive via Birštonas, the total trip is 144 kilometres. But it is * Paežeriai Vlg, Šeimena Ward, Vilkaviškis worth exploring another region – Suvalkija, District municipality * Tel. +370 342 46399, +370 342 46375 the land, which raised the most glorious * Open 10am-5pm and valiant Lithuanian men. Suvalkija is * www.vkmuziejus.lt * www.paezeriai.info renowned for its delicious kvass (Lith. gira) and bread, products made of rye. This is due An alley of chestnut trees leads one to the to the fact that the region has the most fertile Paežeriai manor estate, where one can spend soil in Lithuania. The lands have also raised several wonderful hours relaxing. The transition numerous strong men. Travelling in this from Baroque to Classicism is clearly visible at region will give you an opportunity to learn the manor estate ensembles. Next to the office about them at the same time as enjoying building is the neo-Gothic Belvedere tower. excellent local foods. While visiting the Paežeriai manor, you will find out that manors were in fact built in Suvalkija (or Sudovia) a long time ago: in the 16th–17th centuries. From the middle of the 17th century on, the manor belonged to the wealthy Zabiela family of Raudondvaris. Since 1998, the Vilkaviškis Regional Museum has displayed exhibits about the area’s natural surroundings, prehistory, regional history, emigrant history, and noteworthy local residents in the halls on the first floor of the Paežeriai manor. In the rotunda billiards hall, shows are held to mark important dates in the history of Lithuania and the region as well as anniversaries connected with noteworthy residents of the area. From Vilkaviškis take a trip to another Manor House in Suvalkija - Zypliai. South Lithuania 51 53 | Zypliai Manor House

* Tubeliai Vlg, Šakiai Distr * Tel. +370 345 44 123 * Open: summer, daily (9am–5pm), winter, Mon–Fri (9 am–5pm). * Free of charge. * www.zypliudvaras.lt

It is one of the last and most beautiful manor houses built in Lithuania. The modest Classicist-style building was constructed by Lord Janas Bartkovskis in By the manor house lies one of the the mid 19th century. Now the premises, largest parks in Lithuania. Its landmark is which used to be a horse stable, house the natural monument – the Oak of Zypliai, the gallery of the manor house, one of which is about 360 years old. It is 630 cm in the barns is now the village forge, and circumference and 34 metres in height. another has been turned into a pottery workshop. The manor house holds After a tasty meal and some rest, numerous events annually including continue the trip by either returning to open air workshops, Catholic youth Vilnius or heading west for a stay by the camps, and some events of the Pažaislis Baltic Sea. But before that you have to music festival also take place here. cross the Nemunas river. Zypliai Manor House Samogitia 52 The Land of Peace and Faith The Hill of Crosses

Around 12 kilometres north of Šiauliai, in Samogitia the fields, there is a small hill with more than 200,000 crosses. They have all been brought (Lith. Žemaitija) here by Lithuanian people. If you miss peace, visiting the hilly land of People started building crosses here in the Samogitia is a perfect choice. You will have 19th century. According to local people, the the opportunity to rest quietly in the shades first crosses were built to pray for health. Other provided by the numerous churches and stories say that people started building crosses monasteries, marvel at the skill of the local to commemorate those who died in the uprising craftsmen and will be surprised to witness of 1863. It was a sign of opposition to Tsarist rule, the people’s strength of faith. Or maybe you which having subdued the rebels punished will decide to take the pilgrim route? everyone whose farmsteads contained crosses It is worth starting your acquaintance with and tore them down. Therefore religious people the devout region of Samogitia a bit earlier: decided to build crosses on the hill and did so the outskirts of Aukštaitija have a special at night time so that no one would spot them. site where the wind gently blows through When Lithuania regained its independence, thousands of crosses. the Hill of Crosses started attracting crowds 54 | The Hill of Crosses of pilgrims from all over the world. People started building and bringing crosses to * Jurgaičiai Vlg, Šiauliai Distr * Tel. +370 413 70 860 * Open: daily; The the lower part of the hill. On 7 September Chapel of the monastery is open daily, 1993, Pope John Paul II visited the Hill of 8am–9pm. * Free of charge. Crosses and celebrated Holy Mass. In 2000 a * www.kryziukalnas.lt Franciscan Monastery was built near the Hill. Samogitia 53

Cross-making (or cross-crafting) and cross dedicated to Jewish cultural heritage and the symbolism in Lithuania have been included Frenkel family, while the other one tells the on the list of Masterpieces of the Oral and story of the estate buildings in the province Intangible Heritage of Humanity, established and the town in the 19th–20th centuries. You by UNESCO in 2001. can see the stylised reproductions of an estate, a pre-war street and shop, and even watch a Now your route crosses Šiauliai. Stop there movie in the newly established retro cinema to see some sites. You can start with the visit hall “Kapitol”. to the Palace of Chaim Frenkel (also known as Chaim Frenkel’s villa). 75 km separate you from Šiauliai and another important Samogitian destination 55 | The Villa of Chaim Frenkel in – Telšiai. Come and visit one of the most Šiauliai significant religious sites. * Vilniaus St 74, Šiauliai 56 | The Cathedral of Saint * Tel. +370 415 24 389 * Open: Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun, 11am–5pm Anthony of Padua in Telšiai * Admission fee. * www.siauliumuziejus.lt * Katedros St 2, Telšiai * Tel. +370 444 60 605 * Open: daily, 9am–6pm. Chaim Frenkel was a famous manufacturer * www.telsiuvyskupija.lt in Lithuania at the end of the 19th / early 20th century. He started a leather factory that was The landmark of the Telšiai panorama famous throughout the Russian Empire. In is the Cathedral of St Anthony of Padua. It addition to this successful business he was also was built by Bernardine monks. A popular known for the charity he provided to the city monkhood was established in Telšiai in the and to the Jewish community. early 17th century, having been invited by Povilas Sapiega, the owner of Telšiai lands, Ch. Frenkel lived with his family in a whose portrait is still kept in the church. Modernist-style mansion built in 1908. In the period between 1920 and 1940 the building In 1624 the monks started building their housed a private Jewish gymnasium. During first provisional wooden church and the brick World War II the building served as a German buildings of the monastery. However after military hospital, and later as a Soviet military fires in the mid 18th century, they decided hospital. In 1994 the building was granted to to build a stone church. The new church the Šiauliai Museum “Aušra”. It now displays acquired a double name – Loreto Mother of two permanent exhibitions. One of them is God and St Anthony of Padua.

Villa of Chaim Frenkel The Cathedral of Saint Anthony of Padua in Telšiai Samogitia 54

Having stopped to pray, continue on to The Manor House now contains the Museum Plungė, located 20 km to the west. of Samogitian Art, which contains impressive collections of pictorial and graphic works by 57 | Plungė Manor House Samogitians who live abroad. Plungė Palace holds traditional exhibitions of creative works * Parko St 1, Plungė * Tel. +370 448 52 492 * Open: Wed–Sun, 10am–5pm. by Samogitians spread all over the world and * Admission fee. in autumn hosts the classical music festival of * www.oginski.lt Mylokas Oginskis. One of the most famous museums in Though the Manor House is mentioned in Lithuania the Cold War Period Museum is in written sources at the end of the 16th century Plungė District. (as well as Plungė), it was only in the 19th century that it became famous. At that time 58 | Cold War Museum the site already had numerous buildings of Neo-Renaissance and Neo-Gothic style built * Plokštinė forest, Plungė Distr according to the designs of Carl Lorenz. The * Tel. +370 448 49 231, +370 677 86 574 * Open daily, 10am-6pm * Admission fee * buildings constructed in the style of Italian Only guided tours available. architecture determine the originality of the * www.saltojokaromuziejus.lt complex, while the vast 60-hectare park created in a variety of styles adds to its exclusiveness. The Deep in the Plokštinė forest, do not miss park has been established in the picturesque the opportunity to walk the underground surroundings of the valley of the river Babrungas corridors of a former Soviet military rocket and contains two strings of ponds and an array base. The Cold War Museum in Lithuania of old trees still bearing pagan legends. is one of only three in the world, allowing Plungė Manor House Samogitia 55 Cold War Museum

visitors to see a unique rocket base with While travelling around Žemaitija, drop their own eyes. From 1963 to 1978, four into Plateliai for a visit to the Mask Museum, SS-4 medium-range ballistic missiles were located in the stables of an old-time manor. stationed here and targeted at Western During the Shrove Tuesday festival, with Europe. seven weeks remaining until Easter, winter is boisterously driven out of Lithuania. The The newly-established museum exhibitions Shrove Tuesday (Carnival) traditions go describe the five-decade-long Cold War. You far back in history, into the times of early can learn from the unique visual and graphic agriculture, when tillers of the soil used pagan material about the organising principles and rituals to drive out the winter demons and operations of the formerly secret nuclear rouse the frost-bound earth from its sleep. weaponry of the Soviet empire, and see scale models of military rockets and other Cold Shrove Tuesday participants dress up in War weaponry. As you walk the underground the strangest of outfits, apply soot to their corridors, you will hear the static-filled radio faces, put on wooden, bearded masks, and chatter, hum of motors, and officers’ voices. briefly become the most terrible of monsters with wrinkled foreheads, huge distorted The base was built by 10,000 soldiers, who noses, eyes of unlike size, grotesque leers, dug out the 27-metre-deep silos with shovels. and broken teeth. The more than 250 creative The rocket launch area was surrounded by masks at the Museum remind one of various fences with six defensive lines. Shrove Tuesday stories and legends. It is the Plokštinė is only 10 kilometres away from only such mask museum in Europe. Plateliai. There you will find an authentic Mask Museum stone barn and the Mask Museum in this small village of Samogitia. 59 | Plateliai Manor Barn and Shrove Tuesday (Carnival) Mask Museum

* Didžioji St 22, Plateliai * Tel. +370 686 09 874, +370 677 86 518 * Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm; Sat, 10am-4:45pm; Sun, 10am-5pm. * Admission fee. Samogitia 56 Švėkšna Manor House

Having viewed the masks, drop by the 60 | Švėkšna Manor House Plateliai manor barn museum. In it, you can see and the Church of St James archaeological finds from Šventorkalnis and Pilis island, a collection of folk sculptures, and the Apostle old, even ancient, tools and household items. Park: * Parko St 1, Švėkšna, Šilutė Distr * Free of charge. The Mask Museum has been recognised as a Church: European Destination of Excellence (EDEN). * Bažnyčios St 1, Švėkšna, Šilutė Distr As we have started discussing manor * Tel. +370 441 56 546 * Open: before the service, Mon–Sat, 6pm, houses, it is worth driving 69 kilometres to Sun – 9.30am and 12pm. see another located in Švėkšna. * Free of charge. Plateliai Manor Barn * www.samogit.lt, www.heritage.lt

Although the Manor House of Švėkšna has been mentioned since the mid 15th century, it is fair to say that it was actually created by the Counts Pliateriai (German Plater). At the end of the 19th century Count Aleksandras Pliateris established an English-style park and built a Neo-Renaissance style palace with a tower, popularly known as the villa “Genovaitė”. After Lithuania regained independence, the manor house was given back to its inheritor Felicija Laimė Broel-Pliaterienė who kindly allows visitors into the park. The flower parterres are decorated with statues and vases, and there is even a sundial. There is a stream and several ponds in the park. A unique bridge joins the park to the Noe-Gothic Church of Švėkšna. Samogitia 57

The church also possesses a 20th century constructed on the same rock where the organ, Stations of the Cross, 10 altars, 4 apparition supposedly took place. confessionals, and a pulpit. The central altar in the Basilica contains 61 | The Basilica of the Nativity the image of the Blessed Virgin Mary of the Blessed Virgin Mary portraying the figures of the Mother Mary and the Child Jesus. It is believed to have and the Chapel in Šiluva miraculous powers. The Chapel of the Church contains a * M. Jurgaičio St 2, Šiluva, Raseiniai Distr sculpture of the Mother of God created in * Tel. +370 428 79 200 * Open: May–Oct, England in the 18th century. It also stores 8am–20pm., Nov–Apr, 8am–3pm. * Free of charge. the old cross (1663) painted on wooden * www.siluva.lt boards, which was shot during the fights between Calvinists and Catholics. Perhaps we would know very little For almost 500 years in September about this village if it hadn’t been for the Šiluva has held the Indulgenced Feast of apparition of the Blessed Virgin Mary to the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary. boys shepherding in the area in 1608. Huge crowds of pilgrims flock to this site It was the first apparition of Mary in from all over Europe. They have their own Europe and one of five acknowledged by centre in Šiluva. On 7 September 1993 the the Church. At the beginning of the 20th site was visited by Pope John Paul II. century a Chapel was built on the site of the Marian apparition. The majestic The site of Šiluva brings the route in the 40-metre-high building was designed pious land of Samogitia to its end. You by the gifted architect Antanas Vivulskis. can either return to Šiauliai or turn to the The altar within the Apparition Chapel is highway between Vilnius and Klaipėda.

The Basilica of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary and the Chapel in Šiluva Seaside 58 The Route of the Amber Land Palanga Amber Museum

The waves of the Baltic Sea brings to 62 | Palanga Amber Museum the shore amber. The legend has it that the pieces of amber are the ruins of Queen * Vytauto St 17, Palanga * Tel. +370 460 51 319 Jūratė’s palace. While here you will definitely * Open: Sep–May, Tue–Sat, 11am–5pm, Sun – 11, am–4pm; Jun–Aug, Tue–Sat, 10am–8pm, hear the whole legend telling of her unhappy Sun – 10am–7pm. love story. If you watch attentively you might * Admission fee. * www.pgm.lt find the remnants of the palace yourself. Along with amber, the Baltic Seaside attracts The palace built in Neo-Classicist style is visitors because of its rich history, splendid the symbol of Palanga. It is situated in the parks, and impressive natural surroundings. wood of the pagan priestess Birutė, which Start your journey by visiting The Amber was considered by locals to be a sacred place, Museum in Palanga, where nature is in union close to the Baltic Sea. The Counts Tiškevičiai with history and architecture. who had owned several buildings in Palanga, established their mansion-house here in 1897. They were the initiators of the idea to make Palanga an impressive resort town. To build the mansion two famous architects of the time were hired. The palace was designed by the German architect Franz Heinrich Schwechten, while the park is the creation of the famous landscape designer Édouard François André, the author of numerous impressive parks. Now the park Seaside 59 is the 100-hectare botanical garden of Palanga. The scenic park offers a variety of views and moods, and the paths in the park are surrounded by a rich array of plants, a variety of spaces, ponds, and sculptures. Count Feliksas Tiškevičius had a rich collection of amber: 153 artefacts dating back to the Neolithic and the Bronze Age, which he had collected in 1905–1907 in the swamps located in the coastal area. Now the collection is on display in the Lourdes at the Foot of Birutė Hill Amber Museum established in 1963 in the estate. 63 | Birutė Hill The Fireplace Hall hosts meetings with * Vytauto St 15, Palanga artists, while during summer months the * Tel. +370 460 49 270, +370 460 49 271 * Open: daily. museum’s terrace becomes home to the * Free of charge. “Nakties serenados” (night serenades) * www.pgm.lt concerts much-loved by audiences. Since 1971 the Lithuanian Chamber Orchestra At the edge of the park lies a hill has invited people to a unique concert which has been known as the Hill of cycle under the sky. The classical music Birutė since ancient times. The following played in the open air attracts not only holidaymakers but also famous performers. is the legend. When Lithuanians were Numerous prominent artists from Lithuania pagan, it was common for decent girls and abroad have performed in the concerts to devote their lives to serving gods. of “Nakties serenados”, to mention a few: They would guard the eternal fire day violinists Gidon Kremer, Oleg Kagan, and night, perform merciful deeds, and Tatjana Grindenko and Vilhelmas Čepinskis, lead virtuous lives. Such girls were called cellists Natalia Gutman, Karina Georgian, vaidilutės (pagan priestesses). One of Mark Drobinsky, Vytautas Sondeckis and them was Birutė. However, the beauty clarinettist Eddy Vanoosthuyse. of the young girl captivated Kęstutis, the Grand Duke of Lithuania and as a result After visiting the estate and the botanical he married the priestess. Birutė bore and garden, go to the top of Birutė Hill, which gave birth to Vytautas, the Grand Duke is closer to the seashore, and listen to a fascinating love story. of Lithuania. After her death Birutė was buried on the Hill, where the eternal fire to the gods used to burn. Visitors are reminded of this story by a sculpture built in 1965 in the symbolic burial place of Birutė. Actually, in pagan times the Hill of Birutė housed a paleo-astronomical observatory and a pagan shrine of the

“Sun Stone“ fishermen and farmers. Seaside 60 Kretinga Manor House

64 | Kretinga Manor House (Day of St George), Sekminės (Pentecost). In autumn the celebration of “Medžio šventė” * Vilniaus St 20, Kretinga * Tel. +370 445 77 612 * Open: Jun–Sep: museum – Wed–Sun, (Celebration of the Tree) takes place, and in 10am–6pm; winter garden – Mon, 10am– spring people greet the returning birds. 6pm, Tue–Sun, 10am–8.30pm; Sept–May: After a relaxing experience – travel to museum – Wed–Sun,10am–5pm; winter garden – Tue–Sun, 10am–6pm, Sat, Klaipėda. The road is only 22 kilometres. 10am–7pm. * Admission fee. Once there, go to the Old Town located by * www.kretingosmuziejus.lt the seashore.

The establishment of Kretinga Manor House 65 | The Old Town of Klaipėda started with a fruit tree garden planted in the late th Klaipėda Tourism and Culture Information Centre: 18 century. After approximately 100 years the * Turgaus St 7, Klaipėda manor house was acquired by Count Juozapas * Tel. +370 464 12 186, +370 687 52 051 Tiškevičius. Now the manor house is the * www.klaipedainfo.lt property of the Museum of Kretinga. The Manor The Old Town of Klaipėda House is undergoing renovation but visitors are welcome to see the permanent exhibition of the history of manor houses and to visit the winter garden containing tropical plants and the splendid park of Tiškevičiai. The museum holds exhibitions of art, folk craftsmanship and floristry as well as concerts of the classical music and wind orchestras. The conservatory makes presentations of the flower collections obtained, while the park is a much-loved site for numerous holidays, such as Užgavėnės (Shrove Tuesday), Rasos (Dew Holiday), Jurginės Seaside 61 The Old Town of Klaipėda

The Old Town of Klaipėda preserves the When wandering on the streets of the Old spirit of ancient German cities, as it was built Town, don’t forget to visit the museum situated by the Teutonic Knights. It was first mentioned at the basement of Klaipėda Castle. in written sources by the name of Memelburg in 1252. It was then that the Teutonic Knights 66 | Klaipėda Castle Museum built a castle at the mouth of the river Danė. The * Pilies St 4, Klaipėda * Tel. +370 464 10 527 Old Town that we see today was built in the 17th * Open: Tue–Sun, 10am–6pm, century by joining the area of the castle and the * Admission fee. quarter known as Friedrich Town. * www.mlimuziejus.lt

The distinctive feature of Klaipėda is the The Castle built by the Livonian Brothers of numerous Fachwerk-style buildings. This style the Sword was attacked on numerous occasions was particularly popular in the early 19th century. by Samogitians and underwent restoration on The most beautiful houses of this style are many occasions. The castle had impressive located between Didžioji Vandens Street and defensive fortifications – casemates and the Market Square. You can see an impressive Klaipėda Castle Museum Fachwerk-style warehouse constructed in the 18th century. The heart of the town is the Theatre Square. In 1912 a fountain was built in honour of Simon Dach, a poet and professor of Königsberg who was born in Klaipėda. The fountain is topped by the statue of a young barefoot girl – Ann from Tharau, who was a heroine in one of Dach’s folk songs. Nowadays the love story is still “sung” by the bells of the Munich Town Hall. Locals call the sculpture Taravos Anikė. Seaside 62 Lithuanian Sea Museum Lithuanian Sea Museum

drawbridges surrounded by moats. The the most-visited museum in Lithuania, the castle now houses a museum. A permanent Sea Museum, which draws about 400,000 exhibition is installed in the potern (a visitors each year. In 1979, aquariums with vaulted access passage) and the casemates Lithuanian freshwater fish, Baltic and tropical of Prince Friedrich located underground, fish and fauna and other exhibits were placed which used to serve as the artillery in the reconstructed fort. Penguins, grey warehouse. By visiting it you will become seals, and Steller sea lions took up residence acquainted with the development of the in outdoor pools. Klaipėda castle and the city. The exhibition In the casemates located under the fort’s displays the weapons and jewellery of bulwarks, in what used to be black powder Curonians who lived in the surrounding magazines, there is a permanent maritime region before the establishment of the history exhibition, while on the bulwarks Teutonic Order. Don’t forget to walk the themselves, there is a collection of historic oldest cobbled floor which dates back to and modern-day anchors. the 16th century and enjoy the stunning views of Klaipėda from the bastion of From Smiltynė go along the winding path Friedrich. through the pine forests to the other end of the Curonian Spit. You will reach the resort Your route goes further westwards. From town of Nida in 50 kilometres. Klaipėda, take the ferry to Smiltynė. The Curonian Spit 67 | Lithuanian Sea Museum

* Smiltynės St 3, Klaipėda * Tel. +370 46 49 22 50; +370 49 07 51; +370 69837299 * summer Tue-Sun, 10.30am- 6.30pm; May-Sep, Wed-Sun, 10.30am-6pm; Oct-Apr, Sat-Sun, 10.30am-5pm. * www.muziejus.lt

At the northernmost point of the Curonian Spit, called Kopgalis (Dune’s End), where the peninsula ends and the gates of the port of Klaipėda open out onto the Baltic Sea, in what was once a defensive bastion, there is Seaside 63 The Curonian Lagoon 68 | Nida * The Town of Neringa, Klaipėda county * www.visitneringa.com The peninsula that separates the Curonian Lagoon from the Baltic Sea coast is known as the Curonian Spit. It is a 98 km long, thin (at its widest part it only reaches 3.5 km) sand-dune strip in many places covered with woods with several fishing villages, which now serve as resort areas. 52 kilometres of the Spit belong to Lithuania, the rest is a Russian area. This unique place is listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site because of Judgement one would have something to its natural and cultural importance. grab on when getting up”. Nida used to be a village and was Adjacent to Nida, there are impressive established by fishermen in 1732, after their dunes which fascinated Jean-Paul older settlements became covered with Sartre when he visited the resort in sand. Nida charms its every visitor with its 1965. One of the most visited dunes unique wooden architecture and the sand is Parnidis, with its sundial, which was cracking under the feet. It is worth paying a demolished on 4 December 1999 by visit to the old cemetery as it preserves the a powerful windstorm, Anatolijus. unique wooden grave monuments called You can reach the dune by taking the krikštas (pagan burial markers). In contrast to 800 m long educational route, on your all Christians, the markers are at the foot of way stopping to see numerous plants, the deceased so that “on the day of the Last lichens, mushrooms, insects, and birds. The Baltic Sea Seaside 64 Wathercock in Neringa “Joseph and His Brothers”, essay “My Summerhouse”, articles “What We Are to Expect”, “Speech to the Youth”, “The Blood of the Walsungs”, letters to editors, publishing houses, translators, friends – all of these were produced in Nida by Thomas Mann, one of the most prominent literary figures of the early 20th century and winner of the Nobel Prize. He spent a few successive summers (1930–1932) on the “Uošvės” Hill (Lith. “uošvė” – mother-in- law) with his family in a house designed by the architect H. Reissmann. While walking in Nida don’t forget to visit th the surviving 100 year old fisherman’s house. In 1975, on the writer’s 100 anniversary, the permanent exhibition was renewed 69 | Fisherman’s Ethnographic by adding new exhibits brought from the Homestead German Democratic Republic. The living room, terrace, and the study have been * Naglių St, Nida, Neringa * Tel. +370 469 52 372 restored to regain their authentic interior. * Open: Jun–Aug, daily (10am–6pm); Sep–May, Tue–Sat (10am–5pm). Since 1997 every July the international * Admission fee. * www.visitneringa.com festival of Thomas Mann has been held here and features such events as chamber People lived in the original house, concerts, meetings with writers, conferences, which was built in 1900, until the early and seminars. seventies. When the family moved away, a museum containing authentic The house of Thomas Mann is the last site furniture and household articles was of your journey along the Baltic amber coast. established in the house. On the basis of Fisherman’s Ethnographic Homestead analogical buildings, the environment of the homestead has also regained its authentic appearance. In the yard of the house lie four authentic fishermen’s boats, starting with a simple bark and ending with kurėnas – a traditional flat-bottomed Curonian sailing boat used for fishing. If you love literature, Thomas Mann’s house is a must-see site. 70 | The Memorial Museum of Thomas Mann * Skruzdynės St 17, Nida, Neringa * Tel. +370 469 52 260 * Open: Jun–15 Sep, daily (10am–6pm); 16 Sep – May, Tue–Sat (10am–5pm). * Admission fee. * www.mann.lt LATVIA 38

Baltic Sea 59

56 39 37 64 62 - 63 57 - 58

65 - 67 54 - 55

61 36 40 41- 43 70 - 71 60 34 - 35 32 - 33 18

29 - 31 44 53 21 - 28

19 - 20 52 45 KALININGRAD REGION (RUSSIA)

BELARUS 46 - 47 Seaport 50 Cultural sites Airport 51 48 - 49

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