"Centres of Excellence" in the Textile Industry in Four EEC Member States

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ED 316 689 CE 054 332

TITLE Exploratory Study of the Role and Activities of "Centres of Excellence" in the Textile Industry in Four EEC Member States. INSTITUTION European Centre for the Development of Vocational Training, Berlin (West Germany). REPORT NO ISBN-92-825-8936-6 PUB DATE 88 NOTE 151p. AVAILABLE FROMUNIPUB, 4661-F Assembly Drive, Lanham, MD 20706-4391 (Catalogue No. HX- 53 -B8- 366 -EN -C, $6.00). PUB TYPE Reports - Research/Technical (143)

EDRS PRIC4 MF01/PC07 Plus Postage. DESCRIPTORS Case Studies; Clothing; *Demonstration Programs; Economic Change; Economic Research; *Education Work Relationship; *Fas'aion Industry; Foreign Countries; Standards; *Technology Transfer; "Vocational Training Centers IDENTIFIERS Belgium; *European Community; France; Italy; *Textile Industry; United Kingdom; West Germany

ABSTRACT The nine centers of excellence described in this document are institutions and geographic areas in the European Economic Community (EEC) that, in addition to providing training and maintaining their links with the labor market, carry out research and disseminate technology with individual firms, groups of firms, and the textile industry as a whole. The centers are located in France, the United Kingdom, Italy, West Germany, and Belgium. The study of these centers was based on questionnaire responses and interviews with the administrative and economic experts at each institution and an analysis of the services offered at each. Chapters 1 and 2 describe the study's purposes and the research methods used. Chapter 3 analyzes the education systems within the five countries--with special reference to education, training, and research in the textiles sector--and contains the case study analyses of the individual centers of excellence. Also in the third chapter appear descriptions of research, development, transfer of technology, and training initiatives taken by the EEC in the textile and ready-made clothing sector. The fourth chapter offers conclusions on the structural criteria for a center of excellence, operating criteria for such a center, the social system levels at which the center should operate, and the criteria for defining a center of excellence. The :Appendix examires the apprcach to technology transfer taken in the United States, from which the approaches taken by the studied countries differ. A list of organizations visited during the study concludes the document. (OIL,

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2 BEST COPY AVAILABLE Exploratory study of the role and activitiesof 'Centres of excellence' in thetextile industry in four EEC Member States

Taxi lia, Istituto per la tradizionee la tecnologia tessile SpA

First edition, Berlin 1988

Published by:

CEDEFOP European Centre for the Developmentof Vocational Training Bundesallee 22, D-1000 Berlin 15 Tel. (0 30) 88 41 20; Telex 184163 eucen d; Telefax (0 30) 44. 22 22

The Centre was establishedby Regulation (EEC) No 337/75 or the Council of the European Communities This pulNication Is also available in the following language: IT- ISBN 92425-89374

Cataloguing data can be found at the end of this publication.

Luxembourg: Office for Official Publications of the European Comniun.:ies.1988 ISBN 92-8254E3S-6

Catalogue number: HX-53-88-366-EN-C

Articles and texts appearing in this documentmay be reproduced freely in whole or in part provicing their source is mentioned.

Printed ,n EletVum Introduction

In this periodoftechnologicalprogress and on-going restructuring inthe Textile/ClothingSector technology transfer is takingon increased significanceas far as products and managementare concerned. It is also becoming clear what an important rolevocational training is being calledupon to play, with,on the one hand, its established linkswith basic educationand research and its provisionfor the needs of thelabour market and the productionsystem, on the other.

The purpose of this studyis to provide a criticalanalysis of the responses ofvarious member states ofthe European Community to the twoareas of needs referred to in above. the The study aims toexaminethe responses,which have taken shape within eachmember state in thenational context and the role r'at'edby both the public andthe Private sectors in theeconomy and in education.

We havedesignatedthevariousinstitutions, who have undertaken to implementthetransfer oftechnology in the different memberstates, even at the level of the small and medium-sizedenterprises. "centres of excellence". Their rolecovers a range of realities, whichmay exist within the bounds ofone and the same member state.

Thus,we would contend that a 'centreof excellence" is a forum which, over :and above providingtraining and main- tainingits links with thelabour market,carries out research and disseminatestechnology with particularreference to research and informationprojects involving not only individual firmsor groups of firms,but also. if possible, the textile industryas a whole.

This study aims at enhancingthe awareness ofgroups of interests within the branchin different memberstates oftheCommunityandat promoting cooperation between them with a view to solvingthe problems on hand. The approach which has beenchosen is one basedon case studies involving theuse of questionnaires and interviews with the administrative andeconomic experts at each institution and analysis of theservices offered.In this context. 11

we emphasize the specific characteristics of each centre and assess transferability potential in geographicalterms and in terms of the branch in question. The countries covered by the studyare ones where the textile and ready-made clothing industry is already developed and well-established and where thereare advanced structures for providing the sector with training facilities, technological research and information inan integrated fashion.

The first part of the study is devoted to a brief analysis of the various education systems, with special reference to education, training and research in the textiles sector.

The second and main part of the study,on the other hand, focuses on analysing the different formstaken by the "centres of excellence".

Subsequently, a brief description is given of the initiatives taken by the European Community in connection with research and dissemination of information in respect of the textiles and ready-made clothing sector. Thisis followed by an assessment of the prerequisites for cooperation between member states with a view to establishing an "integrated centre of excellence". The benefits of such a system are then pointed out along with the problems connected with it.

Referenceis made in the annexto technology transfer in the United States, where the approach adopted to this in the sector is structured differently than that found in the countries examined in the study.

Finally, there is a completely up-to-date list of organizations visited to assist readers in establishing direct contacts.

This study is part of a project being conducted by CEDEFOP on the role of education and training as a vital ingredient for the successfulrestructuring of different branches of industry/services in the EC member states in the Medi- terranean area in the light of the approach of 1992 and lit

the " establishment of the singleEuropean market"aimed at permitting thefree circulation ofmanpower on the "European labour market"and "social and economic to even out cohesion" areas of regional and sectoralinequality. CEDEFOP. Berlin, May1988

Tina Bertzeletou Corrado Politi Project Coordinator Deputy Director V

1. INTRODUCTION- RESEARCH AIMS

2. METHODS

3. ANALYSIS OF NATIONAL"CASE STUDIES"

3.1. General commentson vocational training structures in the fourEEC Member States analysed 3.1.1. France 3.102. United Kingdom 3.1.3. Federal Republic ofGermany 3.1.4. Italy 3.1.5. Belgium 3.2. Analysis of the "Centresof Excellence" forming the qualitativesample 3.2.1. France Case 1: "Troyes" Case 2: "Mulhouse" 3.2.2. United Kingdom Case 1: "West Yorkshirearea" Case 2: "Manchesterarea" Case 3: "Nottingham andLeicester area" Case 4: "Trainingsystem for the clothing industry" VI

3.2.3. Italy Case 1: "La Citt& degli Studi di Biella" 3.2.4. Federal Republic of Germany Case 1: "North Rhine-Westphalia" 3.2.5. Belgium 3.2.6. Initiatives at EEC level 4. CONCLUSIONS Set of criteria for defining and identifying Centres of Excellence; how Centres of Excellence can be integrated at a supra-national level

5. Annex Technology transfer in the United States 1

1. IBSTRODUCTIORI ItIMEMICE ADS

Vocational training is ofmajor importanceduring this period of technologicaladvance inevery sector of production; this isparticularly true ofthe textile and clothing industry wherevocational training is increasingly the indispensablefoundation for: - planned management ofthe labour market; - the development ofwidespread professionalism,seen as the optimumuse of in-house resources(expertise and ability) to controlprocess variables and take appropriate steps tocorrect their divergences; - more rational and rapid disseminationof technological innovations concerningproducts andprocesses.

Vocational training isalso, therefore,an integral and particularly importantpart of "training andeducation" seen as the overall process bywhich individualsare brought together withinorganized socialsystems.

This aspect providesa fairly close link withbasic education (State-run educationfrom compulsoryschooling to university). The link cannot andmust not, however, be merely subordinate to theState education system(even if this .s the case in some national contexts),but should rather promote those formsof synergy whichalone can optimize the use ofresources and maximize their impacton the social system.

From the structural pent of view, this dualrelationship 2

with the labour market andtechnological product and process systems and with basic education and trainingis resolved in a variety of ways in theMember States of the

EEC.

These differences arise not only fromthe different situations of industry and therefore ofthe textile industry, but also from the specificfeatures of the training and education systems ofthe countries involved and the many and complex historical andcultural factors which have for centuries shapedthe history of the countries of Europe.

These major variations consequently makeany analysis and interpretation of the range of vocationaltraining situations in Europe very complex,and make the preparation of common trainingprogrammes or research and technological dissemination projectseven more complex.

Administering SF projects in a standardway has raised particular problems, with the resultthat projects are delegated to the individual MemberStates involved and the EEC keeps control only over the appraisaland assessment of projects which are generally evaluatedwithout taking into account the structures whichwill put them into practice and in many cases merely carriesout accounting checks which are often no mere than formalities.

If progress is to be made with thecreation of genuinely "supra-national" training systems integratedirrespective 3

of their geographical location, it isnot possible touse a strategy which looks across the board at allthe difficult issueswhich haveup to now caused training activities to develop in a widerange of differentways: a method which could actually be used inpractice wouldbe to pinpoint a specific "case" withina sector which hasa high level of comparability in theMember States ofthe EEC and where there is previousconsolidated and "historical" experience of internationalcooperation.

The textile industry undoubtedly satisfiesthese criteria; the "case" against which the actualpotential for integration, at both the operating andplanning stages, among the Member States of the EEC could beassessed might well be theestablishment ofa model which lays the foundations for thedevelopment oftechnological innovations in production structures seen ingeographical terms (comparable socio-economicsub-areas) and in sectoral terms (textiles), withpredetermined levelsof synergetic integrationbetween basiceducation and training and researchand the disseminationof technological andorganizational innovations.

This conceptual model, which couldbe put into practicein terms of organization and operation,could well providea reference framework appropriate to allnational contexts from the point of view of operatingmethods, structure and functions and the actual content oftraining schemes and research and technologicaldissemination projects. 4

This theoretical model,seen in this research as the basis for a "Centre of Excellence ", could providethe initial supra-national reference framework whichgoes beyond the simple definition of objectives andtakes concrete shape in day-to-day operating practice.

The *Centre of Excellence"as envisaged is nhaped by predetermined structural criteria (its constituentand interconnected agencies and potentialsynergy) and by operating criteria, linked closely withthe methods used to identify, define, study/put into practiceand monitor training schemes and projects for innovationand the dissemination of technology.

The aim of this research which isan initial study o.Z. the feasibility of the "Centre of Excellence"model is to bring together, assess and interpretthose features which are characteristic of the various national contexts and which can be used to definea reference model which is as comparable as possible andcan be put into practice in any country, eve' within the context of nationalconstraints, when optimum predetermined structuraland operating criteria are satisfied. A further task of this research is therefore to put forwarda possible set of optimum structural and operating criteria againstwhich potential Centres of Excellence can be assessed. 5

2. !MOODS

The basic criteria forassessing potential"Centres of Excellence" include: - structural criteria (theexistence of specificbasic education and vocationaltraining agencies and facilities for researchand the disseminationof technology withina comparable geographicalsub-area); - operating criteria (theexistence of a genuinesynergy between the activities ofthe agencies makingup the Centre of Excellenceas regards the implementationof training schemes andresearch and technological dissemination projects inthe textile industry). These were also the main criteria usedto select the sample of potential "Centres ofExcellence" to be analysed.

The first stepwas to locate possible comparablesocio- economir sub-areas given over predominantly to textilesin the four countries coveredby the research(France, United Kingdom, Federal Republic ofGermany and Italy); these areas were then analysed to findout whether or not they satisfied the structuralcriteria withan additional assessment, in somecases, of operating criteria.

Case studies were selectedwith the aim of providinga qualitatively significantexample of the optimum criteria which Centres ofExcellence could be expectedto meet.

The first stage ofthe research was to sendout a questionnaire so thata vast number of situationswith the 6

potential to be Centres of Excellence could be analysed; the small number of questionnaires returned, despite numerous requests, made it necessary to base the final choice of case studies on the criterion of optimum structural criteria shown by documented data characteristic of each sub-area.

Operating criteria were difficult to assess and therewas a considerable degree of uncertainty in many cases; these criteria were not, therefore, taken intoaccount in the choice of the sample.

To provide a detailed definition of operating criteria and look in more depth at structural criteria, field research was carried out in the form of in-depth interviews.

The information gathered is analysed in Section 3.2. of this report and is the basis for the discussion contained in Chapter 4 (Conclusions). 7

3. AWALTSIS OW MEAL CA= STOW=

3.1. General commehtson vocational training structures in the four EEC MemberStates analysed

The education and trainingsystems of the four Member States from which the Centre ofExcellence case studies have been taken will be summarizedin the following sections of this report.

A description of the frameworkwithin which the various agencies involved in educationand training systems operate should make it possibleto highlight some of the parameters which define whetheror not centres can actually be consideredas Centres of Excellence.

Reference is made to the followingparameters in particular: - links/integration with publicand parapublic research centres, integration with the Stateeducation system, integration with school guidancesystems and systems to find work (for schoolleavers and unemployed workers) in_.he labour markets - technology transfers.

The impact of theseparameters on the features of the various Centres of Excellencecan be fully analysed and "evaluated" only if theyare "calibrated" with respect to the various nationalcontexts. 8

3.1.1. France a. General comments

The French education and training system must be viewed in terms of the three basic channels which shape the vocational skills of workers; - State education, - organized training, apprenticeship/on-the-job training at two levels: A. basic training, B. continuing training.

At level A the State education channel and to some extent that of organized training come into play; at level B organized training and in particular apprenticeship and on-the-job training are used

This configuration allows for close integration between the various education and training facilities, in the first case between State education (at its various levels) and ocational training and in the second case between :raining and the production system.

In basic education, over and above general education appropriate to society as 4 whole, training targeted around specific "areas° of technology is also given. If there is alternance between school and work at this stage, 9

it is predominantly a teaching resource designedto achieve both overall"educational" aims (related, therefore, to societyas a whole) and "cognitive" aims relating to specificcontexts (the goods andservices production system, i.e.companies).

The use, during this initial stage, ofalternance as away of placingyoung people in their first jobsor finding jobs for the unemployed,has less of a place inthe second stage (continuing training)but is nevertheless itsmain aim.

Continuing trainingtherefore comes afterbasic education, relates to specificcompany situations and thus specific occupations and predominantlyinvolves workers whoalready have jobs, but also hasa significant supporting roleto play in helpingyoung people to find their firstjobs in the labour market. b. Structure of the trainingsystem

Basic education

After nursery (3 years)and primary (5 years)school, the French basic educationsystem includes 4years of lower secondary education fromwhich studentscan go on to higher education institutions.

This system beginsto branch out at theend of year 3 of lower secondary school,when less capable pupilsare 10

channelled into the apprenticeship school stream (3 years), which includes various types of alternance between school and work ane the award of the CAP (certificateof vocational aptitude).

There is a further branching out at the end ofyear 4 of lower secondary school, when pupils can either be channelled into a short technical training cycle Clor 2 years at a vocational education lycde) or into upper secondary education which is in turn split betweenlycdes and technical lycdes.

In addition to the CAP, vocational education schoolsaward the Brevet d'Enseignement Professionelle (BEP- Diploma in Vocational Education) relating specificiallyto the service sector.

From lycdes students move on to universities and the °Grandes Eccles° (a total of 7 years) and from technical lycdes to university technica. institutes (IUT)(2 years). Diplomes universitaires de technologie (DUT- University diplomas in technology)are awarded at the end of university institute courses.

The technical lycdes give two-yearcourses as well as the three-year upper secondary course leading to the award of the Brevet de Technicien Superieur (BTS- Higher Technician Diploma).

Like other education systems, the French bsic education 11

system makes provision fortechnological and technical training (incommon sectoral areas) at variouslevels ranging from the certificateof vocational aptitudefor apprentices to universitydiplomas i7 specializedhigher education studies. These correspond thereforeto different professionalresources used at differentstages in the goods and servicesproduction and supplycycle, giving concrete shapeto a range of occupationsand thus also to different"qualifications" ioverned bycontract.

This chain ofcorrespondences which, incontrast to other EEC Member States (suchas Italy), is strictly regulated by law, leaves littleroom for collective and/or individual bargaining withthe result that training facilities playa significant institutionalrole in the system used to define professionalskills.

This role iseven more substantial in thecase of highly integrated systems suchas the Centre of Excellencesystem and highlights theway in which this system differsfrom other national systems inthe EEC whichare not as systematic and do not havethe degree of institutionalization whichdistinguishes the French education system.

Continuing training

Continuing training isorganized and systematic,although allowing for arange of objectives and operating conditions (flexibilityand widespread availabilitywithin 12

production structures) and is organized along similar lines to basic education.

Training schemes are highly targeted andmay be carried out either directly by the firms involvedor by specialized outside public and private institutions.

The Institute for "Conge de Formation* (studyleave) arranges for school and work alternance whichmay be additional to participation in trainingcourses organized as part of the annual training plans of the individual firms to which workers belong.

c. Structure of the training system in the textile industry

Technological and technical trainingIn the textile industry is imparted at all levels of the national training system, with a high degree of vertical integration so as to provide for the creation ofan organic system of sectoral training which providesa response to all the job-skill needs expressed by firms.

Training activities asa whole can be broken down into six levels:

Lerels 1 and 2: corresponding to the basic training imparted at universities and in particular at schoolsof engineering; 13

Level 3: corresponding to the basic trainingobtained at university institutesof technology (DUT)or on two-year higher technical trainingcourses following on from technical lycdes(BTS);

Level 4: corresponding to the basic trainingobtained at technical lycees(technical baccalaureateBTn);

Level 5: corresponding to the basic trainingobtained at vocational lycees(lycees d'enseignement professionnelle) withqualifications suchas the Brevet d'enseignement professionnelle(BB? - diploma in vocational education)or the Certificat d'aptitude professionnelle (CAP- Certificate of vocational aptitude).

In the continuing training system for adults level5 corresponds to level 1 ofthe Certificat deformation des adultes (CFPA Certificate of adulttraining);

Levelfi: correspondingto the basic trainingimparted by the end of the firstcycle of secondaryeducation (first three years) supplementedby 1 or 3years of apprenticeship-oriented training.

In substance, Frenchuniversities and schoolsof engineering provide basictraining forcompany managers, university institutesof technology andtechnical lycees train technicians working at variousstages ofproci=sses and vocational schoolsfor apprentices trainskilled and unskilled manual workers(Table 1). 14

Table 1

Level

Executives Universities Managers Schools of el ,ineering

Technicians University Institutes

11111110 IMIISS III OMNI 11101:1111 C.112 of Technology (DUT) 4

Higher Institutes of Technology (BTS) IV Technicians (Technical lycdes)

ISkilled Vocational (CAP/HEP) V Workers Ilycees (BEP)

Unskilled [Apprentiveship (CAP) VI workers schools 15

The differences contained in the Frenchsystem therefore relate almost exclusively to the sector ofproduction (textiles, mechanical engineering, electricalengineering, etc.) and the stage ofinvolvement in thecycle (manager, technician, manualworker); there donot appear to be differences as regards functions of the cycle(sales, engineering, design,etc.) while it wouldseem from the detail of the "Di'lemes professionnelstextiles" (vocational textilediplomas) that thereis a detailed breakdown by types oftechnology or by thelevels of work involved in thesetechnologies.

France has a total of13 schools authorizedto award vocations] diplomasat levels I, II andIII in the textile industry; S of these are schools of engineering,1 is a research and training institute providingengineers with specialist textileskills, 3 are universityinstitutes (IUTs) and 4 are higher lydees for textiletechnology (BTS).

At levels IV andV there are 26centres with 13 specializations. Student numbers ineach specialization often vary substantiallyand in manycases seem to be a response to precise "orders° from the productionsystem.

Centres usually takethe form of vocationallycees or training centresorganized along similarlines. 16

d. Research and technology transfers

General comments

On the basis of the model developed in thisreport, the other assessment criterion for Centres ofExcellence, over and above training and its relationshipswith the labour market, is research and the disseminationof technology, particularly research and disseminationprojects which do not simply involve individual firmsor groups of firms, but the textile industryas a whole.

In France, most of these criteriaare brought together within a specific structure:the "Institut Textile de France" (ITF- French Textile Institute). As in the case of training, activities in thisarea in France are organized in a systematic and organicway making use of specialized facilities (and thereforespecific human and material resources) with planned activitieswhich go beyond the specific interests of individualfirms.

Structure and activities

ITF is regulated by Law 48 of 22.7.1948which sets out its main aims: to promote technical advances and contribute to quantitative and qualitative improvementsin the efficiency of production cycles".

The channels through which thesegeneral aims are to be achieved include laboratory researchand experimentation 17

in experimental production departments,participation in productionprocess and quality control standardization,as well as all the activities whichfollow on fromthis such as disseminating findings so that the workerswhich they affect can be informed and updated andproviding training for workers inspecific occupations.

The ITF has 3 subordinate centresand 4 affiliatedcentres located in the main areas in which the textileindustry has developed in France; these centresprovide permanent work for 400 people includingrtsearchera andancillary staff.

ITF facilities car be divided into3 maingroups: laboratories (physicochemical,optical, mechanical engineering, etc.); experimental production departments (spinning,weaving, finishing-dyeing,make-up, etc.); plant and production machinery researchoffices (mechanical engineering,electronics, automation, computing, etc.).

Groups of associated companies are linkedwith each ofthe 7 centres and appoint representativesto serve on Groupes de Travail(GT - Working Groups) or CommissionsTechniques (CT - Technical Committees). These groups, whichmeet twice yearly, provide a forumfor the discussionand formulation of ITF's working plansboth at nationallevel and for each individual centre. Some research and experimentation projectsmay be of localor sectoral 18

interest, while others may be brought together and managed at national level, coordinating and making the most suitable use of contributions from the individual centres.

There are currently 48 GTs or CTs bringing together 580 technicians representing the industries associated with the 7 ITF centres. Coordination of the proposals drawn up by GTs and CTs and the preparation of the annual working plan is the task of the ITF's General Committee. In addition to working group and technical committee coordinators, this committee includes representatives from both sides of industry and from thu public authorities, the directors of the 7 ITF centres and the general directorate of ITF itself. The ITF's Management Board is responsible for validating the plans worked out in this way.

Activities carried out up to now have touched on almost all aspects of production processes in the textile industry:

1. Quality and reliability - quality in production - certification of quality - costs of defective quality - costs of defective reliability

2. Automation - transducers - automation of dyeing 19

- automation of make-up - process computerization

3. Control of technologicalvariables in production - development of methods andinstruments forprocess control in productiondepartments - process improvements - new process technologies - new product technologies

4. Optimization of raw materialand energyuses - optimization ofraw material uses - energy savings

5. REluction of pollution - treatment of liquid effluentsfrom the textile industry - techniques for measuringthe dust present in production environments

6. Recovery and re-use of textileby-products and similar materials

7. Basic research

8. Documentation

9. Techniques for technologicalinformation and the dissemination of innovations 20

10. Production of standards

In addition to these 10 projects the ITF is workingon a scheme to provide services for firms in the industryin four main areas: 1. Technical assistance 2. Analyses, laboratory tests and inspections 3. Training 4. Information and documentation.

These services, broken down into the 4areas, may also be provided if individual firms request them;in such cases a "private" contractual agreement is set in motionbetween the firm making the request and ITF. Activities of this type account for a substantial proportion ofITF's work.

Conclusions

The way in which ITF is structured is in keeping withthe general approach within the French system to oromotingthe development of the production apparatus, fromthe point of view of both human resources (training) andtechnology (research and dissemination of technology). As regards the outline of a possible "Centre of Excellences model, the French experience obviously has nn.ch to contributeas regards the systematic and rationalized nature of the activities of centres.

These aspects will be analysed in greater detail inthe two case studies ("Mulhouse" and "Troyes") discussedbelow 21

in Section 3.2. °Analysis of thequalitative sampleof Centres of Excellence°.

3.1.2. United Ind

a. General comments

The British educationsystem appears to beone of the least rigidly structured as regards both basiceducation and continuing training. Course structures tendto reflect the elasticityand flexibilityneeded to meet changes in the demandfor training andeducation from society asa whole and the nevi toensure a minimum standard of high-level free education forall inhabitants. In order to meet this dual requirementthe British system has, on one hand, a number of education andtraining facilities (public andprivate schools subsidizedto varying extents andtherefore with varyingdegrees of autonomy) and,on the other hand,an organic framework of examinations run byindependent examiningboards which administer thesystem in an "objective-based" way, where the objectives are chosen by pupils whenthey selecta personalized curriculum:entred not so muchon specific schools buton specific courses.

If this system is to work, it needsa large number of educational facilities,some specializing in the identification and correctionof curricula shownto be either mistakenor no longer practicable. 22

These are facilities such as the Open University,distance learning and higher education courses.

The sole, although major, areas of inflexibilityin the system, fram the point of view of its facilities,are to be found at either end of the system, at the beginningof the school cycle and its end, in the Universities.

In the first instance, these take the form ofregulations which make free schooling compulsory between theages of 5 and 16, and in the second instance they derivefrom the absolute autonomy over education and culture possessedby the Universities which are not therefore just assemblies of "courses"c but genuine, organically structured, institutions with theirown specific educational and scientific "projects" and their own personalitiesor in many cases their own "historic" cultural features.

This also means that vocational training is highly deregulated and is to a large extent delegatedto user firms and supervised, to an increasingly smallextent, by the ITBs (Industrial Training Boards).

Vocational skills and their related training curriculaare thus defined in a very "personalized"way both from the point of view of the individuals involved (in the various stages of basic education) and from the point of view of firms (at the stage of conticuing training in the production system): the task of the authorities isto ensure that the necessary resources (public and private) 23

are available and to check thatobjectives (training)are being achieved in certaincrucial areas of thecurriculum, via the examinationboards and the awardof the GCE (General Certificate ofEducation).

This situation, whileable to meet changehead on, does not seem to promote,except perhaps in theuniversity "seats', the establishmentof organically structured systems with permanent andconsolidated training institutions comparableto those which are typicalof the French system of education.

Structure of the educationsystem

Basic education consistsof primary school(6 years) from 5 to 11, lower secondaryschool (5 years) from11 to 16 and upper secondaryschool (2 years) from 16to 18. Students can thengo on either to university (7years) or university level highereducation colleges (3years) or polytechnics (3 years).

Different routescan be followed before the end ofupper secondary school; studentsleaving lower secondaryschool (at 16 when compulsoryeducation finishes)can attend courses organized by Institutes ofFurther Education (up to 5 years) and apprenticeshipcourses given both by special training centresand within firms.

The GCE system containstwo hurdles which haveto be overcome: the first (Ordinary Level)taken at the end of 24

the lower cycle of secondary education andthe second (Advar_md Level) taken at the end of theupper cycle of secondary education.

There are no particular restrictionson examination candidates (apart from minimumages of 16 and 18). Separate results are given for each subject(there is no overall assessment) and subjectsare classified as 0 or A Levels (depending on the level of theexamination). Results are used as a criterion for universityentrance examinations and as a criterion for findinga job.

Minimum standards, both in terms ofexamination results and the type of subjects passed, change inresponse to developments in the needs of the socio-economicsystem.

At present, in order to satisfy universityentrance requirements, students must in theoryhave passed at least two A Level and 3 0 Level examinations; inpractice, however, given the high demand for places,at least 8 examination passes are needed, including3 A Levels.

Vocational training is carriedout through the further education channel after theage of 16 and through apprenticeship courses both within and outside firms.

Further education was introduced bythe General Education Act of 1944 and is coordinated at county levelby local authorities in the form of LEAs (LocalEducation Authoiities). The structure of training in further 25

education is organizedon an individual basis and is further broken down intomodules.

Course levels range f-om basictechnical courses to university courses. Training may be full-timeor part- time, in the form ofalternance trainingor daytime or evening classes. There are no age limitsonce compulsory education has been completedat the age of 16. An examination is usually takenat the end of acourse; the content of examinations andexamining boardsare formulated and administerednationally. Institutes organizing further educationcourses take a variety of forms: polytechnics,colleges of technologicaleducation, colleges of technical education,business schools,art colleges, agriculturalcolleges, the Textile Institute, the Society of Dyers andColourists, etc.

Course outlooks vary greatly,depending on the individual institute and in particularon the local authorities (LEAs); they may have directoutlets into the labour market, or may make it possiblefor students to catchup on the basic education needed foruniversity entrance by preparing them for GCE0 and A level examinations,or may be genuine universitycourses for instance in schools of engineering. co Structure of the trainingsystem in the textile industry

The way in which trainingis structured inthe textile 26

industry is largely due to thespecial position of the British textile industry, formerlythe greatest in the world and still among the leaders. Despite far-reaching changes in the structure of the industriallabour market (supply and demand), in particular in thetextile industry, firms still playa major role in training and the subsequent placement of trainees.

Training is available at alllevels in the industry, from the highest (university) to trainingfor apprentices after lower secondary education.

Universities

The departments of textile studiesof the universities of Leeds and Manchester representthe best in the industry both as regards the present standardof studies and the prestige and authority traditionallyconferred on them.

Two other universities specializingin textile technology supplementea these two departments inthe 1960s: Strathclyde in Scotland and Bradford inEngland.

There are also a number of departmentsoffering courses on textile Industry subjects in otheruniversities which do not strictly specialize in textiletechnology, such as the Schools of Economics in Manchester andSheffield and Loughborough University which has developeda specific course on textile machinery. 27

Other university departmentswhere studiesare centred chiefly on polymer chemistry have sections specializingin synthetic fibre research. The same applies todyeing, with important researchdivisions ina number of universities which, althoughthey do not specializein textiles, can therefore beadded to the institutesin Leeds, Manchester and Bradford.

Polytechnics (Degree courses)

Polytechnics, as wellas universities, offer degree courses centred on the textile industry;courses at the Polytechnics of Leicester,Trent (Nottingham) and Huddersfield are of particularnote. In all threecases, specializations are centredboth on functions ofthe textile cycle, includingtextile design and fashion, marketing, production engineeringand on types of product, including knitwear andwoven fabrics.

Courses are generally organizedas sandwiches ", with students being placed inindustry for part of thecourse.

Degree courses in textiledesign and the studyof fashion are offered by other Polytechnicswhich do not specialize in textiles. Courses of this typeare also offered by some art schools suchas the London School of Art.

It is also possibleto study industrializedgarment make- up technology as part of certaintextile technology courses. 28

Some Polytechnic programmes also includemanagement courses for the textile and garment industriesas part of undergraduate or postgraduatecourses. Operators in the industry (managers and technicians)feel, however, that the number of courses in "textile design°and "fashion" (many more than are necessary) far outweighthe number of management and production engineeringcourses which are unable to satisfy demand andare in particular failing to meet the current requirements of the Britishtextile industry.

Postgraduate studies and research

All the universities with textile studiesdepartments offer postgraduate courses leadingto the award of postgraduate diplomas or MAs. Postgraduate courses seem to be structured in two mainways: - advanced training buildingon connected undergraduate courses: - conversion from other non-textilesubjects to textile studies.

The subjects covered by thesecourses include the study of textile technology, the study of fibres,etc. There are also courses where the focus ison the design of both textiles and of clotning and knitwear. Research carried out in universities and polytechnics isclosely linked to postgraduate courses and actsas a basic educational channel for the award of PhDsor MAs; it does not seem, however, that it is of equivalent importanceand use in 29

extending the frontiersof applie0scientific and technological researchfor the textileindustry.

Applied industrialresearch is generallyleft to appropriate associations (WIRA, ShirleyInstitute, lATRA, etc.) where ref3rmsare currently underway to provide such associationswith a greatermargin of self-financing through the sale ofservices.

3.1.3. Federal Republic of

a. General comments

The schooling, basic education and vocationaltraining system in the Federal Republic of Germanyis largely administered by public agencies and iscoordinated with full autonomy by the individualLSnder (FederalStates) under general outlineregulations passedby the Federal (overnment.

The basic education and vocationaltraining systemsare closely interconnected: specific vocationaltraining paths follow on from eachof three mainchannels of basic education.

Following the lycee channel (primaryschool, lower and upper secondary school), students can attenduniversity courses (7 years) or university levelhigher vocational institutes (3-4 years), both of whichdeal with cleary defined and targeted"occupations". 30

Following the modern secondary school (Realschule)channel (primary school, lower secondary school, 6years) students can enter complementary vocational schools where theycan acquire a specific vocational qualificationthrough the technical school-leaving certificate (2years).

Finally, following the traditional secondaryschool (Hauptschule) channel (primary school, lower secondary school, 5 years) students can enter varioustypes of vocational training and apprenticeship (3years).

Higher university level courses (3 years)are available to students from both the Realschule andHauptschule channels.

Vocational training also includesa further group of courses closely linked to the firms which make use of them (the "dual" system) where training is compulsory andfree of charge and is a way of placingyoung people in their first jobs. The fact, in this case, that part of the training must actually take place in firms, limitsthe possibilities of action by firms in terms of thejobs available and thus the actual absorption of thelabour market,

In- service training as well as "dual training"(designed to place young people in their first jobs) is undertaken by a further specific structure, "continuingtraining", where the aim is to develop and improve thevocational skills of work .rs throughout their workinglives. 31

In the German vocationaltraining system,both as regards vocational training whichis closely linkedto basic education (lower secondazy school) and vocationaltraining integrated with production structures, qualificationsare seen aq rigidly defined pointsof reference whichcan be modified only if this is decided atcentral level. Viewed from the outside, themain feature of theGerman system seems to be the way in whichvocational skillsare defined to cover all the needs ofthe goods and services production system. The path via whicheach skill can be obtained is defined indetail, the characterizationof this r being, in contrast tothe British system,an integral part of the vocational content ofthe skill. The "continuing training"system also has to bedefined in terms of its objectives(updating and/or vocational advancement) and itsinstruments (and centresauthorized to give this training).

In contrast to theBritish system, theGerman system offers qualificationswhich are clearlydefined it advance; potential studentscan choose the qualifications towards which theywant to work, whilethe instruments required to achievethese qualifications(training facilities) followon closely from thequalification selected andare therefore compulsory.

In the Federal Republicof Germany, thetraining curriculum and qualificationsare highly interdependent both as regards vocational training givenas part of State education and in trainingintegrated with theproduction system. . L,J...N ..1 . .111.ei. di SII mml. ..LAAMMomml

b. Structure of the basic education system

Delegation of powers over education to the individual Lander means that compulsory schooling lasts inmost cases for 9 years (4 years of primary school and5years of lower secondary school) with some exceptions (Berlin, Bremen, Hamburg, North Rhine-Westphalia) where it is 10 years.

There are three different types of lower seconchry school: the first type (Hauptschule) ends with the compulsory education period and lasts 5 years; the second type (modern secondary school, Realschule) lasts 6years, i.e. one year beyond the compulsory education period; the third type, closely linked to the three-year lycee period (upper secondary school), lasts for 6 years after primary school.

After the lycee, students enter university facultiesand other higher education establishments.

It is possible to go on from the other two types of secondary school only to the two- or three-yearcourses at technical or vocational schools (complementary vocational school, higher vocational training school awardinga school leaving certificate in technical studies, specialized schools for technicians and parameics etc.); from these schools students can go on to university level courses (3 years) in specialized technical subjects. This system makes it necessary for families andyoung people to 33

make binding choices ata very early stage, inpractice after only 4 years of primaryschool.

Although studentscan in principle change fromone type of secondary school to another,such transfersare difficult because syllabuses in thevarious types ofsecondary school vary considerably. Experimental "comprehensive" schools bringing togetherall three types oflower secondary school haverecently been setup in en attempt to find a solution to thisproblem and makea gradual choice possible; thischoice can be made duringthe 5th and 6th years of secondaryschool during thetwo-year "orientation" period.

Vocational training.

Vocational training isbased on an organicsystem of standard vocational qualificationsdefined and updatedat Federal level; trainingcurricula makeuse of both full- time technical andvocational schools,closely linked to the lower secondaryschools, and the so-called"dual training" system withpart-time, and insome cases full- time, courses closelylinked to periods ofapprenticeship and on-the-job trainingin firms.

Although "dual vocationaltraining" is deemedcompulsory for young people lookingfor their first jobs,the limited number of trainee placesavailable in firms raisesmajor problems. These problemsare to some extent borne out by the creation ofdivisions/laboratories forapprenticeship 34

and on-the-job training where the practicalcomponent of the dual training system can be carriedout on behalf of firms with a shortage of in-house traineeplaces.

There has been a trend, recently, towardsincreasing integration of the two components of the training (theoretical and practical): - with the creation in the major firms ofgenuine training centres where the practicalcomponent can be undertaken and the theoretical componenttaught in outside schools can be supplementedor started afresh in cases where it has not been satisfactorilytaught; - and the creation outside firms of inter-company "training centre" firms which givethe whole training cycle (technical and practical) and drawon the experience of the firms belonging to the jointventure for the practical component.

These comments show that improvementsto the standard of on-the-job training are a current problem inthe Federal 1.epublic of Germany and that the dualsystem can provide excellent results if its undoubted advantagesat the "educational" level are exploited, butthat its results are not always satisfactory when it leads to training facilities which have little contactat the institutional level, particularly when major technologicalproduct and process innovations need to be introduced and training requirements are greater andneed a high level of integration between theory and practiceand cannot therefore be identified with the traditionalcraft trades 35

where aspects of theory relevantto practicewere limited and had littleto do with actualpractice.

c. Structure of the trainingsystem in the textile industry

There are direct links in the textileindustry, as in other sectors, between the vocationaltraining curriculum and qualificationlevels: theseare divided into 6 levels:

Level 1: Textile machine operator: 2-year full-time training course after lower secondaryschools or twoyears of dual training using training/employmentcontracts.

Level 2: Textile mechanic: 1-year course afterlevel 1 training, eitherfull-time or underthe dual system.

Level 3: Textileindustry specialist:2 years following the upper vocational school level alternatingwith practical experiencein firms.

Level 4: Textiletechnician: 2years at a technical institute, after the 4 upper level, supplementedby specific practical experiencein firms.

Level 5: Technical and vocationaltextile engineering diploma (Dipl. Ing. FH): 3-4 years of universitylevel courses after high-level vocational school(2-3 years).

Level 6: Technical diploma in textileengineering (Dipl. 36

Ing. TB): 5 years after the technical school-leaving certificate (Abitur) and specific practical experience.

Basic education in the Federal Republic of Germany is predominantly given at the compulsory education stage and, to some extent, in technical schools which award technical school-leaving certificatLs, while vocational training is given at subsequent levels, either full-time with specific vocational experience or with the dual system.

Level 1 covers unskilled workers (level 6 in the French system), level 2 covers skilled workers (level 5 of the French system), levels 3, 4 and 5 cover technical production operatives at various levels (levels 4 and 3 of the French system) and level 6 covers process technicians and supervisors and company managers (levels 1 and 2 of the French system).

Some reference occupations (included in the national register of qualifications) and their related training curricula have been laid down in detail for levels 1 to 3.

1. Spinning

Level 1 Level 2 Textile machinery - textile spinning mechanic operator (spinning) 37

2. Weaving

Level 1 Level 2 Textile machinery - textile weaving mechanic operator tweavIng) - textile weaving mechanic for tapes/ropes - weaving designprogrammer

3. Knitwear

Level 1 Level 2 Knitwear machinery - textile weaving and operator knitwear mechanic - textile mechanic for hosiery and finehosiery

4. Finishing/Dyeing

Level 1 Level 2 Operator of textile Dyer machinery for finishing Printer and dyeing Finisher Smoother

5. Clothing

Level 1 Level 2 Level 3 - garment sewer - garment maker - garment cutter 38

d. Research and technology_ transfers

General comments

In accordance with the model put forward inthis report, the other assessment criterion for "Centres of Excellence", over and above training and itsrelationships with the labour market, is researchand the dissemination of technology, with particular referenceto research and dissemination projects involving not justindividual firms or groups of firms, but the textile industryas a whole.

The Federal Republic of Germanynas a permanent system (AIF) for cooperation between textile industriesand research centres for the development of specificresearch programmes and their subsequent dissemination.

Structure and activities

As in the case of other applied research activities, 3 separate agencies are involved in applied research in the textile industry: the firm or firms identifying the problem whichcould be th! basis for a research project viaa committee of technicians; the management board and the relevanttechnical and scientific committee of the association(AIF); the research institute chosen tocarry out the research. 39

The first agency (the firm)identifies thetechnological problem (relating toa process and/ora product), the second agency formulates itas a possible researchproject and the third agency drafts a detailed researchproject proposal which, if approvedby the first twoagencies, undertakes the project issuingperiodic updateson any interim findings whichcan be put into practice andcan be disclosed within theproduction units interestedin the innovation.

Work by the cooperative research associationswhich belong to AIF follows a standardprocedure.

Work is begunon the basis of a proposalfor further study of a new technological problem; the initiativefor this usually comes from firmsor may come from one of the associated research institutes.

Technical details ofthe research topicare then discussed by the board of theprofessionalgroup invoiv?d which formulates a possibleresearch project proposalwhich is then passed on toone of the establishmentsbelonging to the cooperative associationwhich is competentto deal with the topic.

The research projectproposal is examined andassessed by the technical and scientificcommittee of the establishment which includesrepresentatives from the firms belonging to thecooperative association. 40

If the proposal is approved, further detailsare worked out, with the agreement of the professionalgroup proposing it, and it is formulatedas a genuine research project with objectives, deadlines, operatingmethods and costings.

The project is then examined by themanagement board of the cooperative association which appointsone of its members as a project officer who, afterapproval by the board, monitors the development of theproject on behalf of the board, together with the professionalgroup, the firms and the institute involved.

At this stage the research project becomespart of AIF's official programme and may drawon appropriate funds and receive any technical oL legal assistance whichmay be necessary.

The project can be updated or modified whilework is in progress.

Individual firms can also be directly involvedin the project so that their machinerycan be used or their specialist advice calledupon. If the research findings are deemed satisfactory by all those involved (AIF's rapporteur and management board, firms and professional groups proposing the research and the research institute which has undertaken the work), it becomespart of the technology transfer and dissemination plan. 41

This plan is implemented jointly by AIP, in particularits textile committee, theprofessional group involvedand the institute which has carriedout the work.

Its dissemination is carriedout in a number ofways, ranging from the updating ofvocational training programmes to the organization of symposiaor the creation of comprehensive technicaldocumentation including journals, informatioA circulars,summaries of research findings, etc.

3.1.4. Italy

a. General comments

The system of educationand basic and vocationaltraining in Italy is administeredlargely by public agencies, although privatelyrun basic education and, toa larger extent, vocational training playsan important role.

Planning and administrationof the basic educationsystem (State education) is highlycentralized, whereas vocational trainingmanagement has for the mostpart been delegated to the Regions, whichare able to work with considerable autonomy in theirown areas.

The basic education andvocational trainingsystems do not always complementone another, but often work inparallel, and with considerableautonomy, and therefore often with strong interconnectionsand mutual coordination. 42

Vocational training is not compulsoryeven for school leavers looking for their first jobs;course attendance is therefore voluntary, and the motivationto do so is often no more than subjective.

This shapes the range ofcourses available and means that priority is given to the subjectiverequirements of trainees rather than to the objective needsof the labour market. This lack of planning is exacerbatedby the absence of labour market analysis organizationsand agencies guiding young people in theirselection of courses.

Innovative experiments in thisarea have been launched in only a few Regions andare still at the experimental stage.

414 The general intention of thenew national (Law 845/1977) and regional legislation is to make vocationaltraining an active instrument for optimummanagement of the labour market, shifting it away from its traditionalparallels with State education (basic education);the failure, among other things, to implementupper secondary school reforms has so far, however, prevented the fullimplementation of the law.

The Italian basic education system isfairly standard at present, and those differences which do exist inupper secondary education have little effecton the choice of university courses which ismore or less free and is not 43

restricted in anyway.

The fact that upper secondary schools anduniversities do little to prepare students for professionallife has promoted the growth ofvocational trainingcourses which attempt to "supplement"the two study cyclesand help young people to find work,making use of workexperience periods and training andemployment contracts.

Formal study certificates which are standardthroughout the country (lowerand upper secondaryschool-leaving certificates, degrees)are awarded on successful completion of basic education andare in some casesa requirement when registering for entrance examinationsfor the professions(lawyers, doctors,etc.).

Students conpletingvocational trainingcourses are awarded vocational proficiencycertificates whichvary from Region to Region, although they are inkeeping witha single general outlineprepared at nationallevel by the Ministry of Labour. In some casescertificates are not issued aftera formal examination hasbeen taken, but take the form of attendancecertificates.

Vocational training inItaly has little overallimpact both quantitativelyand qualitativelyon the labour market system, although considerableprogress has been made ira recent years;moreover, the very widerange of conditions in which vocationaltraining is carriedout does not make it possible, as in other European countries,to put 44

forward a standard model of trainingwhich seems to have begun to take shape only recently insome Italian Regions.

b. Structure of the training system

Compulsory education currently lasts for 8years in Italy (5 years at primary school and 3 at lower secondary school). A reform of upper secondary education which would increase compulsc,,y educationto 10 years (5 at primary school, 3 at lower secondary and2 at upper secondary) has been in the pipeline forsome years.

Lower secondary education is standard; optionsare therefore chosen at the beginning ofupper secondary education when lower secondary education hasbeen completed.

The current structure ofupper secondary education is based on legislation whichcame into force before the 1940s, subsequently modified in part, withoutthe long- awaited comprehensive reforms whichhave been announced on several occasions ever having been implemented.

Upper secondary education is structured aroundthree general streams: lycees, technical schools andvocational schools: courses at all these schools last fiveyears. Lycees are divided into "classical lycees"teaching literary and philosophical subjects,"scientific lycdes" and "art lycees". Technical and vocational schoolsare split into many sectoral and/or professional 45

specializations andcover more or less all the technological and technicalareas to be found ina modern socio-economic system.

Specializationsare generally oriented towardsproduct technologies and, much lessfrequently, towardsprocess technologies; precise referencesto production functions and specific occupationsare not in general to be found. Vocational training hasbeen successfully introducedinto this area with schemesfor refresher training,advanced training and redeploymentto meet labour marketdemand (this is the "higherlevel trainingm mentionedabove).

Intermediate vocationalproficiency certificatescan be obtained only at theend of the thirdyear of vocational schools. This certificate isparallel to and almost in competition with the lowerlevel vocational training courses which normally lasttwo years and insome cases one year.

No particular selectioncriteria are used foruniversity and polytechnic (all ofuniversity level) admission:all that is needed foradmission to any universityor polytechnic faculty isan upper secondary school-leaving certificate or technicalcertificate (with the exception of some special schoolssuch as art schoolswhere aptitude is obviously important).

Higher education awardsprior to the"dottoraton (equivalent to the degreein Britain) havenot existed up 46

to now, although a higher award doesexist, i.e. the research doctorate.

Under recent university reformsit will in future be possible to establish intermediatehigher education awards at the discretion of individualuniversities and polytechnics whichcan set up "speciali d higher education calleges" within butclearly separate from universities and polytechnics. This initiative parallels and to some extent overlapsthose schemes (very few in number) for post upper secondaryschool vocational training lasting oneor two years launched experimentally some years ago by certain RegionalAuthorities.

Vocational training vocational training in Italyis shaped by a number of factors which make its structurerather complex: historical factors: the lack ofany national tradition of a standard vocatiwal trainingmodel which goes beyond the training typically givenin craft workshops has a particular impact; institutional factors: the factthat basic education (State education) and vocationaltraining are run ina parallel way and do not complementone another is exacerbated by the large numbers ofindependent decision-making centres: centralgovernment for basic education, the Regions for vocationaltraining; structural factors: suchas the lack of a single system to define vocational skillsand thus the lack ofany 47

close links between trainingcurricula and skills; attempts in recentyears, following the outlinelaw on vocational training of1977, to define "bandsof comparable skills and trades"to be 3sed as an unambiguous reference forvocational P.,.aining andthe labour market, havenot had a great deal ofsuccess up to now.

The lack of a rigidlystructured vocational training system has not, howevei*,just entailed drawbacks,but has paved the way fora number of high qualityschemes run by public and private or mixed agencies which haveoften made use of particularly innovative types of training (suchas training in process automationtechnologies, including CAD/CAM/CAE).

Vocational training inItaly is at present aimedat young people looking for *the!r firstjobs who haveon average attended a full-timetwo-year course aftercompleting lower secondary school,supplemented in somecases by specialist courses varyingin length up toone full-time year, or who have attended otherfull-time 6-monthcourses after upper secondaryschool: - at employed workers affectedby production reorganization and/or theintroduction of new technologies; - at unemployed workersto help them to learnnew skills more in line with thenew developments in product and process technologies to replaceskills for which there is no longera demand in the labour market. 48

Courses for the last two types of vocational training user are structured in a variety of ways, generally to meet the specific needs of each scheme.

There are also major variations in the structure'of courses aimed at the first category of user, i.e.young people looking for their first jobs, dependingon the regulations specific to each Region. Some Regions have in fact abolished the two-yearcourses following on from lower secondary school in favour of job-orientedshorter courses based on employment and training contracts; other Regions in practice offerno organized public courses for young people with upper secondary school certificates which means that the onlycourses available are privately run with no public funding.

A particularly interesting aspect of the Italian vocational training system is the system of multi-purpose integrated training agencies whichare often run by mixed public and private companies operatingover the entire range of vocational training and in some cases (suchas Tecnotex di Biella) incorporating applied technological research ventures.

c. ingnatspALStructureofthetrailthetextile industry

The general constraintson basic educat:ton and vocational training in Italy have an impacton the structure of training in the textile industry. 49

Basic education

Basic education includes,at the upper secondaryschool level, technical schoolswhich award "textilespecialist" diplomas with specializedoptions in types ofproducts (textiles, knitwear)and processes (dyeing,textile design, make-up).

Some interesting experimentalventures have been launched to update and developnew teaching programmes designed both to include thetechnological innovationsrecently introduced into theindustry and to establishcloser links with the productionsystem.

The Polytechnic of Turinin very shortlyto set up a "Specialized HigherEducation Institute"operating in the textile technology field. This educationalestablishment at an intermediate levelbetween upper secondaryschool and university, isto be located at Biellawithin the general context ofthe Citta Studi projectand in the district in whichTecnotex operates; highlevels of integration with thelatter are planned. A similar venture is being studiedat the University ofFlorence. The Polytechnic ofTurin runsa textile studiescourse, although there isno genuine specialization inthe industry.

Vocational training

Vocational training inthe textile industry isorganized 50

along more or less the same lines as described above for vocational training in general: courses are in practice put on for young people looking for their first jobs after leaving lower secondary school. These courses are centred on specific or multi-skill (textile process operators) qualifications and last from 1 to 2 years full-time with work experience periods in textile firms. A study intended to give a detailed definition of occupations and standard courses valid for the Italian textile industry as a whole is currently nearing completion. This study has been prepared and coordinated by ISFOL (the national agency for vocational training coordination run by the Ministry of Labour) and the Emilia-Romagna Region; other regions where the textile industry is well represented such as Piedmont, Lombardy, Tuscany, Apulia, etc., have also taken part in the study.

Courses aimed at young people with upper secondary school qualifications have also been launched. These courses a..7e intended to prepare trainees for specific occupations in textile design, the design, planning and management of production lines, the development and maintenance of plant and machinery and the laboratory analysis of raw materials and semifinished and finished goods.

The "Politecnico della Moda" (Fashion Polytechnic) in Florence which offers a twc-year training course for designers and stylists is of particular note.

The advanced postgraduate course at the Scuola Superiore 51

Meccanotessile (Textileengineering college)linked to the CERIT Research Centre atPordenone is of particular interest.

d. Research and technologytransfers

The following public textileresearch centresare currently operating inItaly: - two Experimental Stations(both in Milan)run by the Ministry of Industryworking in the fieldsof silk and cotton and artificialfibres respectively; - a CNR Research Instituteat Biella for the wool industry; - the Societh di RicercaTecnotessile (Textile engineering researchcompany) of Prato setup under the IMI fund for appliedresearch, for projectsgenerally of interest toa specific contractor; - the CERIT textileengineering researchcentre at Pordenone.

In addition, analyses,studies and consultancywork are undertaken for firms inthe laboratories and bythe staff of the industrial and technical textileschools of Como.

There is, in practice,no coordination between these centres and schools,apart from some informalmeetings within the ResearchCommittee of Pedertessile(Textile industry confederation)which does not,however, have any coercive or fundingpowers comparable for exampleto those of the German Kuratoriumdi Gesamttextil). 52

3.1.5. BELGIUM

a. GENERAL COMMENTS

1. The Belgian education system

The Belgian education system has recentlybeen subject to reforms, some of which are still being putinto practice. which have extended the compulsory educationperiod to 12 years.

After Ecole Primaire (primary school- 6 years), pupils enter Ecole Secondaire (secondary school- also 6 years) which is normally divided into two three-yearcycles (upper and lower); the "reformed circuit",on the other hand, includes three two-year cycles, knownas "observation" (general preparation), "orientation" (foundation), and "determination" (final options).

In the conventional model, paths startto diverge in the upper cycle with options of the lycee type (classical humanities, classics and mathematics,classics and sciences, mathematics and sciences) and ofthe technical type: these Include a textile specialization insome ten or so schools throughout Belgium.

Studies can be continued after TechnicalSchool at a level lawn than university, followinga two-year course leading to the award of "gradue" which is typicalfor example of laboratory workers; two Schools (Tournaiand Ghent) offer 53

this possibility inthe textile sphere.

Alongside the ordinarytechnical educationdescribed above, it is also possibleto attend eveningclasses (for example three hoursper day, four daysper week over two years) leading to the awardof techniciandiplomas, for instance in spinning,weaving, etc.

At university level, whereentrance follows on from education of the lyceetype, there are two Higher Education Colleges offeringtextile courses atGhent and Verviers (main officeat Huy) which offerfour-year courses leading to the award of"industrial engineer"; after the initial twoyears (taring which general subjects are taught) the award of "industrialengineering candidate" can be given,while specialistsubjects are taught in the subsequenttwo years.

Some ten or so industrialengineers (mostlyFrench- speaking foreigners)are currently graduatingat Verviers and 30 at Ghent (almostall of Belgiannationality): it should be borne in mindthat over 80% of the60 000 workers in the Belgiantextile industryare in Flanders.

At universities, whichare distinct from the Higher Education Colleges,students can work towardsthe award of "Civil engineer" over 5 years; an industrial..ngineer can subsequently becomea civil engineer by followingcourses over a further threeyears: this is veryrare in the textile sphere, involvingonly 1-2 peopleper year at 54

Ghent. A civil engineer graduatingin mechanicalor chemical engineeringcan specialize in textiles by attending 1-2years of postgraduatecourses.

Vocational training

In the final twoyears of secondary school, pupilscan satisfy the compulsoryschooling requirement bychoosing part-time teaching, alongthe lines of the Germandual system: 2 days per week atschool (50% general subjects and 50% vocationalsubjects), possibly atdifferent establishments, and 3 daysper week in firms.

In the textilearea, with an estimated turnoverof 3200 people per year, the aim ofthe programme (whichhas only just been launched) isto train 250 young peopleper year, thus involving 500 peopleover the 2 years planned. There are currently 160 employment/trainingcontracts with firms: these contractsare advantageous for firms since the trainee enters intothe contract not withthe firm but with the TextileIndustry Social andGuarantee Fund (financed by 0.25% of thewagebill) withno obligation on the part of the firmto employ the traineesubsequently; firms also receive FB40 000 per pupil-yearas remuneration for the servicesprovided by their in-house trainer. Trainees receivesome FB 160 per hour of work in the firm.

By far the most interestingactivities as regards vocational training intextiles are carriedout by CEFRET 55

(COBOT in Flemish), setup in 1984 by employers'and union organizations and recognizedas a Training Centre bythe National Employment Office:this Centre will bediscussed in detail below.

The courses organi by CELAC (see below)should be mentioned among refreshertrainingcourses: i. advanced training forunemployed laboratoryworkers, predominantly practical innature, full-time for 13 weeks for 8-10 people twicea year (the course is free of charge and is funded bythe public authorities); ii. retraining of textile engineers,for the most part foreigners, over 4 months(course free of charge, funded by UNIDO amongstothers).

C. Research

Collective textile researchin Belgium is centralizedat Centexbel whichoperates through the Ghent andVerviers centres; Centexbel will bediscussed below in detailand we merely note here thatGhent has a staff ofsome 20 or so people and Verviersa staff of 15 (11 in thePhysics Division and 4 in theChemistry Division):Ghent specializes in short fibres(cotton) and Verviers inlong fibres (wool).

Bearing in mind thedefinition of a "Centre of Excellence", it is particularlyinteresting to note that Centexbel has links withthe Higher TextileColleges at both Ghent and Verviersfrom the point of viewof both 56

teaching and the preparation of research theses.

Theses are also prepared at CELAC where there isa reciprocal exchange with the Higher Education College at Verviers: CELAC loans its metrology laboratories and is able to use the College's processing departments. d. Technical Services to firms

Centexbel has set up a technology transfer service which is of major interest particularlyas regards its network of link-people (1()) which could providea model for Europe as a whole: this will also be discussed in detail below.

Centexbel, on its own or in cooperation with CEFRET, organizes refresher seminars formanagers and technicians (for instance, recent post-ITMA conferences). It carries out analysis and consultancy work at Ghent (the well-known De Meulemeester university laboratory is also located in Ghent), but not at Verviers: in the latter area, CELAC provides technical assistance for firms, including analyses for third parties (see below). 57

3. ANALYSIS O TIOZAL CASSTUDIES

3.2.i. France

Troyes

Troyes, in the Departement of Aube,is historicallythe centre of the Frenchknitwear industry;the agencies operating in Troyes are therefore an exampleof both geographical and sectoralintegration.

The main training and research establishmentsare as follows:

1. Institut Universitairede Technologie(IUT - University TechnologyInstitute) of Troyes(lower university education); 2. Lycee Technique desLombards (pre andpost baccalaureat secondaryeducation); 3. Centre de la Bonneterie de Troyes (vocationaltraining and technical assistancefor firms); 4. ITF-Maille (research, technical assistance,technology transfers, continuingtraining for middleand top management).

The first three of these organizationsare located quite close to one another which facilitateslinks (exchanges of teaching staff, provision oflaboratories and insome cases joint preparationof programmes).

6G 58

The agencies operating in Troyes satisfy thecriteria for the establishment of a Centre of Excellence basedon the model described above, since they provide, with satisfactory links between the various agencies,the basic functions of a. training (both State-run and vocationalat various levels); b. research; c. transfers of technology.

A major shortcoming is, however, the absence ofa university institution of a standard higherthan the IUT (textile engineering).

Institut Universitaire de Technologie deTroyes (rue de Quebec)

The IUT (run by the University of Rheims) offerstwo-year post-secondary (Bac 4-2) training courses of university level, on the following subjects: - electrical engineering and computing for industry(with options in electronics and systems automation); - mechanical production engineering; -company management (with options in personnel management and finance); - marketing techniques.

The IUT also organizes, on request, continuing training courses on the following subjrTts: - management computing; 59

- financial and accountingmanagement; - international trade techniques; - industrial computing; - production science and automation.

The IUT has just launcheda university diploma course (DUTH), which is the onlyone of its type in France, for the textile and clothing industry whichhas been developed in cooperation with professionalassociations (industrial associations and ITF-Maille) and thevocational lycee: the level of the course is Bac¢ 3 since a third year at the IUT supplements the two-yearBTS course at the lycee.

Teaching is split between theJUT, the vocational lycee and industrial consultants and relateschiefly to general management techniques (administered bythe IUT) and supplementary technological training:the course includes six weeks of work experience in firms.

The IUT has no textile laboratoriesbut can use those of the vocational lycee.

Lycee Professionel des Lombards (10-16 avenue des Lombards)

The Lycee offers courses leadingto awards in the textile fiki.d at a vocational (BEP- CAP specializing in knitwear e. .itxtile finishing), secondary(BT - BP) or post- s-contlary (BTS) level.

6 -6 60

It is important to note that industrialdemand is increasingly for the post-secondarylevel (BTS) and therefore that there is a need for higherlevel training; it is for thisreason that the lycee has agreed that the IUT should offer the thirdyear mentioned above (DUTM).

In the continuing trainingarea is provided for middle and top technical managementby ITF-Maille in particular and for manual and skilledworkers by the Centre de la Bonneterie, the lyceecooperates with informal exchanges of teaching staff.

:InIssAtAtknattsEitAtami; -'-16 avenue des Lombards)

The centre was established bylocal entrepreneurs (in the knitwear and make-up sectors) bringingtogether the former Apprenticeship and ProductionCentres.

Th0 Board of Management includesrepresentatives from industry (the unionsare represented on the Conseil de Perfectionnement Paritaire (JointAdvancement Council) required by law).

Funding for this privateagency comes from subscriptions from member firms, sales of services(courses and consultancy), the apprenticeship grant paidfor the trainee-hours given to unemployedworkers (the grant is reduced if the trainee failsto find employment, but the current rate of employment aftercourses is 93%) and 61

subsidies from the Ministryof Labour.

In addition to offeringorganizational adviceto firms in the industry (particularlyon issues connected with productivity), the Centreoffers three types ofvocational training: 1. Preparatory apprenticeship class(CPA): the Centre acts in this case asa host firm (since it has itsown suitably equipped testlaboratories) for studentsin the final year of compulsoryeducation who have chosen to follow this path(50% of the school timetable). 2. Lower vocational training(workers): studentsare young people looking for their firstjobs (who receive a miniaum wage of FF 580/month),workers affected by redevelopment programmes(who receive 70% of their last salary), employedworkers in continuingtraining (from 2 to 31 weeks full-time). 3. Higher vocational training(maintenance staff, setters, middle management),normally in the form of continuing training (in thecase of future section heads for instance, 21years of 50/50 alternance between the Centre and theirfirm). Programmes, prepared annually, providehelp with job-finding techniques (psycho-technicalassessments, interviews, evaluation of professionalskills) and includesome forty or socourses chiefly in thearea of knitwear make-up (cutting, make-up,maintenance and managerial training).

44 people, generallyfrom industry,are employed by the 62

Centre. There are agreements with theLycde des Lombards including the reciprocaluse of each other's laboratories.

The consultancy serviceson organizational problems which the Centre offers to industryare an important factor in keeping the Centre up to date andensure that it is constantly in touch with technologicaldevelopments.

In the continuing trainingarea, the Centre helps to organize work experience periodswith the Association Nationale pour is FormationContinue dans le Textile (ANFOCOTEX - National Association forContinuing Training in the Textile Industry),10 rue d'Anjou, Paris, setup by the Union Textile, unions andthe IT?. The aim of this association is to undertake studiesand prepare training programmes to improve continuing training inthe textile industry and the way in whichoperating resourcesare used; it works in close cooperationwith the trade associations and the trainingcentres of the various regions, and itselfprepares modern educational materials.

It also publishessurveys and periodical inventories of the supply of and demand for trainingin the French textile industry.

ITF-Maille (Centre de Recherchesde is Bonneterie) (270, rue du Faubourg Croncels)

This centre specializes inknitwear manufacture and make- up, a field in which it enjoysan international 63

reputation. In 1986 it had 76employees, 28 atthe engineer or highertechnician level. The following breakdowns (1985)are of interest: a. activities: 46% research,17% activities ofgeneral interest, 60 promotion and free technicalassistance, 31% provision of services; b. funding: sales ofservices (32.4%),various subsidies (8.0%), publiccontracts (7.8%),parafiscal tax (42.5%). The percentage forthe parafiscaltax is the lowest among those ofthe institutes affiliatedto ITF which bears outthe concrete natureof ITF-Maille's activities, since itmanages to financeover half of its budget itself (as against approximatelyone-third for the ITFas a whole).

Research programmesare drawn up with the helpof five technical committeesincluding representativesfrom industry, most of whichmeet twice a year; these committees cover hosiery, knitwear finishing,pullovers, weaving and make-up.

Good results have beenachieved from researchat ITF- Maille in:

the development ofmary instruments andmeasurement methods which havehelped to improve thequality of knitted goods (devicefor measuring thelength of absorbed yarn LFA,Cadratex, calculationof dimensional stability, comfortabilitymeasurements, etc.); the development ofmany machines (manufacturedand sold under licence) particularly for automatedmake-up; 64

- major studies of both products andprocesses in the knitwear industry. ITF-Maille has always devoted considerable attention to the problem of disseminating the results obtained in its laboratories andhas set up a specific agency (Sodemat) for technology transfers.

In the same way as other IT? agencies, ITF-Maillealso carries out analysis and consultancy work forfirms and offers a number of continuing trainingcourses for technical managers.

Mulhouse

The overall system operating at Mulhouse (designedto serve the textile and textile engineering industry in Alsace) almost meets the criteria of theCentre of Excellence model, partly because of the excellent relationships between the vallous agencies andtheir respective managements teams, despite the fact thattheir legal status differs.

In this system: 1, all the required functions are broughttogether, at all the desired levels, including the advanced university level (with the possible exception of vocational training for manual workers); 2. use is made of agencies which belong to highly structured systems with the potential forcooperation outside the area as well (for example withinthe ITF network).

13 65

The major training andresearch establishmentsare: 1. Ecole Nationale Supdrieuredes IndustriesTextiles de Mulhouse - ENSITM vHigher National School forthe Textile Industriesof Mulhouse) (university education); 2. Vocational lyckes (LycdeLouis Armand andLycde Gay-Lussac) (secondaryeducation); 3. Institut Supdrieur Textiled'Alsace ISTM (Higher Textile Institute ofAlsace) (training ofproduct managers); 4. Centre de Recherche MdcaniqueAppliqude au Textile- CERMAT (Centre for AppliedTextile Engineering Research); 5. Centre de Recherches Textilesde Mulhouse- CRTM (Textile Research Centreof Mulhouse).

ENSITM (11, rue Alfred Werner)

This School which isrun by the Universitd deHaute Alsace offersa three-year trainingcourse for textile engineers (to whicha make-up option has recentlybeen added) requiringa DUT for admission (the finallevel is therefore Bac 4. 5).

Engineers awarded thediploma may goon to take a two-year diploma in advancedstudies (DEA); studentswho then go on to prepare a researchthesis over at leastone year may be awarded the degree ofdoctor of engineering it macromolecular sciences.

74 66

Teaching is split intothree main areas: 1. general scientific education(38% of the timetable): mathematics, physics,chemistry, mechanical engineering, etc.; 2. textile training(42%): fibres, spinning,weaving, knitwear, finishing,etc.; 3. "service sector" training(24%): languages., accounting, managementtechniques, etc.

Research can be carriedout in the School(physics and textile engineeringlaboratories), during thework experience period ina company (studentsare placed in firms for at leasttwo months of the thirdyear) or in cooperation with theCRTM or CERMAT researchcentres.

The main fields ofresearch are: 1. the mechanical, rheological and phyt. properties of textile and alliedmaterials; 2. research and innovationin productionprocesses; 3. the development ofmeasurement instruments(for example the recentYarntester); 4. study of the potentialuses of technical textiles.

ENSITM has cooperated withforeign countriesto develop higher education projectsand programmes.

Vocational lycees

1. Lycee ProfessionnelGay Lussac, 18,rue Gay Lussac; 2. Lycee Louis Armand/3, boulevard desNations. 67

The Lycee Gay Lussacruns CAP and BEP courseson textile treatment subjects (bleaching, dyeing,finishing), while the Lycee Louis Armand offerscourses leading to the post-secondary BTS diploma in textiletreatment.

ISTA (c/o Protextal, 6,rue de la Bourse)

This private institutewas recently set up by entrepreneurs in the sector (belongingto the Protextal Association for the promotion ofAlsatian textiles) together with three higher educationand research organizations: - ENSITM CRTM Ecole des Beaux-Arts.

The entry level is Sac¢ 2 (or in special cases appropriate experience in theindustry) and training is given in three main strandsover two years: - artistic design, marketing and management, textile technology.

The training is intendedto give trainees a new occupational profile, that of the productmanager (chef de produits textiles), i.e.a general technical and commercial manager able toact as an interface between production and design and betweenthe firm and its customers, for which there isa continuing demand in the industry. 68

CERMAT (34, rue Marc Seguin)

This research centre is affiliatedto the Centre Technique des Industries Mecaniques (CETIM- Technical Centre for the Mechanical Engineering Industries),an agency set up by the Association of Mechanical EngineeringIndustries of the Haut-Rhin Regionas a regional support centre for firms chiefly, but not exclusively, inthe textile engineering sector.

kareas of action include: - mechanical and textile engine^ringresearch under contract: - transfers of technology inareas such As production management, manufacturing methods, qualityand maintenance; - technical assistance on matters connectedwith metal and compound materials (analysis andconsultancy).

CERMAT has fully equipped laboratoriesand may also carry out work within firms.

CRTM (185, rue de l'Illberg)

This centre, adjacent to ENSITM (andthe Lycee Louis Armand) in the university grounds, is affiliatedto the ITF and specializes in textile finishing,sizing and cotton spinni:4 and weaving. 69

It had a staff of 43 in1986, 20 at theengineer or higher technician level.

The followingbreakdowns are of interest: a. activities: 64% research,11% activities ofgeneral interest, 41% promotion and free technicalassistance, 21% provision of services; b. funding: 22.6% saleof services, 6.6%various subsidies, 7.8% publiccontract3, 63.0% parafiscal tax.

The various itemsare in line with theaverage for the ITP.

Researchprogrammes are drawn up withthe :aelp of three working groups consistingof representativesfrom industry which meet on average twice yearly andcover spinning, weaving and finishing. The main researchresults of CRTM include: - research into spinning, particularly open-endspinning, and the effects offibre propertieson finished product

- reduction of defects inwoven materials and improvements in loomoperation, includingthe development of measurementinstruments suitable for laboratory and factoryuse; - research (which isinternationally recognized)into sizing; - techniques to reducepower consumption; - automated operation ofa continuous dyeing line. 70

CRTM research is coordinated withENSITM and CERMAT research through workinggroups which meet once a month and also act as an intermediaryfor the transfer ofnew techniques to industry.

Like other ITF institutes,the CRTM also provides analysis and consultancy services for firmsand offers a number of continuing trainingcourses for technical managers.

3.2.2. United Kingdom

West Yorkshire area

A large part of the British woolindustry has historically been concentrated in West Yorkshirein the neighbouring cities of Leeds, Bradford andHuddersfield. This area is the headquarters of the Confederationof British Wool Industries (MT).

In addition to the Confederaticn'straining department, other higher education and researchestablishments are of particular interest: Leeds University; Huddersfield Polytechnic; Bradford University; the Wool Industries Research Association(WIRA) in Leeds; the Technical Centre of theInternational Wool Secretariat (IWS) in Ilkley. Although there areno formally established linksbetween the various establishments,under the vocationaltraining system, coordinated by the CBWT, itis possible, for example, in line with the typicalBritish system, to obtain certain medium to highlevel awards by attending courses offered by universities andpolytechnics on a part-time basis.

From both the geographicaland sect.ral points ofview,

the agencies present in WestYorkshire in principleh re the functional elements neededfor a Centre of Excellence, provided that closer coordinationis established.

Confederation of British WoolTextiles (60 Toiler Lane, Bradford)

The Confederation is recognizedby the Manpower Services Commission as a "non-statutorytraining organization"and in this guise coordinates- through its Training Department - the training ofmore than three times the number of higher techniciansthan were previously trained by the now defunct publicBoard.

It publishes the newsletter"Textile Training News" andan illustrated brochure listingthe various careers in textiles open toyoung people leaving compulsory education at the age of 16: technicalcareers envisaged include the job of supervisorytechnician in various specialities (weaving, combing, worstedspinning, carding, carded spinning, dyeing) andcourses last 4 years with alternance 72

between in-company work experience and part-time attendance of a higher education establishment(leading finally to awards of the BTech type).

The following are of particular interest: 1. the Textile Training Groups setup towards the end of the 1970s on the initiative of companymanagers who decided to group together to find jointsolutions to mutual problems connected with practical and vocational training; these Groups, whichare private but receive Government support,are acquiring increasing importance following the abolition ofthe Government Board. In Bradford and its surrounding area, the Group is active in four areas: - management, techniques, - administration, - process operators.

Training ranges from 2 weeks to 12 monthsfor workers, up to 2 years for clerical grades and up to 5 years for higher technical grades: in the lattercase, there are links with the part-time courses offered by Bradford College and Huddersfield Polytechnic,leading to the award of various types of diploma; the ITraiiIkLYouttIScheme (YTS) which lasts, in Halifax for example, for 2 years with periodson the job in companies and off the job at Training Centres and (part-time) in the area's colleges (withthe possibility of obtaining diplomas). 73

University level highereducation establishments

Higher education in thetextile field in the West Yorkshire area could besummarized as follows in1985:

Institution Diploma Number of Features students

Bradford BSc /BTech 16 4 years 'sandwich" University in Textiles (1 in company)

HuddersfieldBSc Textile 25 4-5 years Polytechnic Technology part-time BA Textile 107 4 years "sandwich" Marketing (1 in company) BSc Textile 86 4 years sandwich Design Cl in company) ATI Design 55 1 year full-time after BTech MPhil in 2 textiles

Leeds BSc in Colour 58 3 years full-time University Chemistry BA in Textile 85 3 years full-time Management BA Textile 71 3 years full-time Design BSc Textile 31 3 years full-time Chemistry 74

BSc Textile 1 3 yearsfull-time Physics BSc Textile 4 3 yearsfull-time Process Engineering

BSc Textile 2 3 years full-time Engineering BSc Textile 66 3 years full-time Industries MSc 10 3 years full-time Postgraduate 12 Diploma MPhil/PhD 45

Part-time courses are also available for variousdegree awards, and in some cases part-time lowerlevel courses (for an example of thissee Manchester area - Bolton Institute).

WIRA (West Park Ring Road, LLeds)

The Research Association system in the United es financed in the past out of the levies paidby assocla% companies, which have now been greatly reducedor abolished; trend is now towards a service supplier structure with the creation of Business Centres whichare run strictly as businesses.

This entails a gradual shift fromresearch mutivities to 75

transfers of technology, including publications,analysis and consultancy work, continuing trainingand the sale of instrumentation developedby the Centre tWIRAtakes part in ITMA, the International TextileMachinery Association, exhibitions).

There are three mainstrands to theresearch programme which drawson funds from the Textilesand Other Manufacturers RequirementsBoard (TOMRB) of theMinistry of Industry andTrade - textiles (all aspects of woolprocess technology); - carpets; - dry cleaning and productupkeep.

Manchester area

The city and area of Manchester haveHistorically been the home of the British cotton industry which iscurrently headed by the BritishTextile Employers'Association.

A variety of establistuagntsare active in thisarea at various levels ofState education and vocationaltraining andresearch, including: Manchester University, IWO The Bolton Instituteof HigherEducation, OM. The Textile Institute, The Fielden HouseProductivityCentre, The Shirley Institute.

Overall, theseostablishmunts have allthe elements needed

84 76

for definition asa Centre of Excellence; links between these establishments and withemployers' and union organizations take place- again not in a very formal way - through a non-statutory training organization(operating as part of the Employers' Association andreplacing the previous Public Board abolished in1981).

British Textile Employers'Association

In addition to the commentsabove, mention should be made of the Technical and VocationalEducation Initiative which is designed to informyoung people aged between 14 and 16 on potential jobs in the textile industry(5 hours per week during the last twoyears of compulsory education).

Universities

UMIST, Manchester University's textilesdepartment, offered full-time three-yearcourses leading to the following awards in 1985: - BSc in Textile Process Engineering and Product Management (32 students); - BSc in Textile Design (31); - BSc (Hons.) in Textile Economics andManagement (72); - BSc (Sons.) in Textile Technology (34);

In addition there isa comparatively large number of students (some 40or so) preparing a research-based MScor PhD. 77

Bolton Institute of Higher Education (Deane Road, Bolton)

This Institute of Higher Education isan interesting example of the way in which similar institutesor polytechnics are run in the United Kingdom:it offers a wide range of diplomas (whichcan be obtained on a full- time or part-time basis- a total of 2 000 students for each method) and also oraanizeuvocational training courses.

It is divided into three faculties(Applied Sciences, Engineering and Training and Arts);the Applied Sciences faculty has a textiles department.

The Textiles Department (specializingin short fibres in particular) has a total staff of 27,two thirds of whom are teachers. Teaching is given on six types ofcourses (attendance data relating to the 1986/87academic year): 1. Postgraduate: 3 MPhil (full-time), 2 MSc(full-time), 1 PhD (part-time); research is inmost cases sponsored by local industry; Associateship of the Textile Institute(ATI), predominantly academic in nature. Length: 4 years full-time, 7 years part-time(students numbering 88 and 76 respectively); 3. ''Tech National Certificate in Textiles:of a more practical nature. Length: 1 year full-time, 3years part-time (students numbering 40 and167 respectively, including those coming under 4.); 78

4. BTech Higher National Certificate/Higher National Diploma in Textiles. Length 1-2 years full-time, 2-4 years part-time; 5. Pre-BTech Foundation Course: introductorycourse on textiles (on request). Length: 1 year part-time, 13 students; 6. Short courses, lasting from a few evenings toa few weeks and aimed at various grades (from machine operators to higher technicians). Over 300 participants.

Various specialized options can be takenon ATI and BTech courses: fibres, spinning, weaving, knitwear, textile finishing, laboratory work.

Fielden House Productivity Centre (Mersey Road, Didsbury, Manchester)

This private company, setup originally to offer organizational advice to the textile industry, has gradually diversified its range of activities, initially into training (particularly as regards the trainingof trainers) and then into sectors of industry andcommerce not involved with textiles). It has a staff of about 35 people.

Two types of training course are currently offered: 1. Open Learning: this takes the form of fixed-content courses open to anyone interested. They may be organized as short seminars or workshops (lastingfrom 79

1 day to 1 week, although thereare exceptions especially as regardscourses for trainers whichcan last several weeks)or are organized using the "distance learning" system, includingthe use of teaching materials designed ina very modern way and advice from tutors and consultants:courses on textiles are offered in TextileTechniques (the equivalent of some 750 "notionalhours"), Textile Colouration (330 hours) and General Textiles(487 half-hours). 2. In-house training: demand for thistype of training, carried out within firms (generallyfairly large in size), is booming. The Fielden Centre has been asked to organize this type of activityby private organizations, government bodies(especially for redevelopment programmes and ESP-fundeddevelopment programmes) and foreign countries (to helporganize and manage vocational trainingcentres during their launch periods).

Despite its very circumscribedsphere of action, Fielden Louse offers an interesting compleLentto the activities of the other organizations whichprovide, in both thearea and the sector, the other functionsof a Centre of Excellence (higher education, research,transfers of technology). It provides, by its very nature,a very close link with the real needs of industry;its rangy of activities includes organizationalas well as technical advice (an important function ina Centre of Excellence) and as regards training, considerableemphasis is given to the training of trainers.

Textile Institute (10 Blackfriars Street, Manchester',

This professional association,founded in 1910, brings together over 10 000 people with highlevel jobs in the textile industry (entrepreneurs,managers, technicians, researchersreeachers) in some 90 countries.

The association is divided intonational sections and organizes periodical conferences andseminars, in addition to its annual convention, whichtakes place in different countries on themes of major importanceand topicality.

The Textile Institute isvery active in the sphere of documentation (and consequently inthe sphere of technology transfers), publishing itsown collecions of articles and journals (includingthe most prestigious scientific textile journal, the"Journal of the Textile Institute") and distributing largenumbers of books froma variety of publishers.

Its activities include the awardof diplomas to successful examination candidates, including theATI (Associateship of the Textile Institvt.e) whichhas academic recognition and for which thereare courses in a small numbt.r of higher education establishments,for example Bolton.

89 81

Shirley Institute (Didsbury, Manchester)

Founded in 1919as the British Cotton IndustryResearch Association, this Institutesubsequently diversifiedinto silk and artificial andsynthetic fibre researchgaining an international reputation. Some 200 people, approximately half from universitycircles, are activein the Institute. Research is carried out ina wide range of areas, including conventionalprocesses and products (cotton, silk and chemical fibres),nonwovens, filtration, energy, microelectronics, enviromentalscience, inflammability, microscopy andmicrobiology.

Analysis and consultancyactivities. undertaken for industry and thegovernment, as well as internationally, have increased in importancefollowing changes inthe structure of the BritishResearch Associations (which could rely in thepast on fixed incomes, butnow have to be largely self-financing).

In the sphere oftechnology transfers, theInstitute has set up and manages theinternational databank "World Textile Abstracts",publishing a fortnightlybulletin as well.

Nottin hamshire andLeicestershire area

The British knitwear industryis historically concentrated in this area.

90 Although the area is comparativelylarge (which makes contacts slightlymore problematic than for examplein Manchester and West Yorkshire),there are a number of research and training agencieswhich overall providethe various functions naeded fora Centre of Excellence.

These include: - Higher Education establishments: LeicesterPolytechnic and Trent Polytechnic (inNottingham); other establishments includingHinckley College at Hinckley (which also providesa home for the interesting Knitting IndustryProject Update;see below); -the Knitting and Lace IndustriesTraining Resources Agency (KLITRA) in Nottingham; - the HATRA Knitwear ResearchInstitute in Nottingham which has an internationalreputation.

Leicester Polytechnic (P0 Box 143, Leicester)

The Polytechnic has fivefaculties: -Art and Design (including theSchool of Fashion and Textile Design); - Business; -Education, Humanities and SocialSciences; - Science; - Technology and Construction.

The latter includes theSchool of Textile and Knitwear 83

Technology; the Leicester regionis is fact the heartof the British knitwear industry.

Various types of training awardsare available: - BSc (Hons.)/BSc in Textile and Knitwear Technology: this course was developed afterdiscussions with local and national industry and is theonly degree level course relating specifically to knitwear. It is a sandwich course: 3years at the Polytechnic andone in industry (year 3); - Polytechnic Certificate/Diploma inTextile and Knitwear Technology: 2 years whichcan be reduced to one for students aged over 21 witha minimum of one year's experience in industry; BTech Higher National Diploma:2 years, with 4 possible options (knitwear technology, design,finishing, make- up); - Textile Technology Associateship of the Leicester School of Textiles (ALST): thisaward is given to students preparing the BTech Higherlevel who includea year of practical experience ina sponsoring firm (firms generally put themselvesdown for students at the beginning of the training periodwhich lasts a total of three years);

Leicester Polytechnic also offerspart-time courses (which last proportionally longer) forthe BSc, BTech (and BTech Higher) levelsas well as: - a Basic Introductory Course (1 year); -a four-year course for the award ofAssociateship of 84

the Society of Dyers andColourists (cf. ATIat Bolton).

Research is carried out bystudents preparing MPhilsor PhDs.

N.B. Trent Polytechnic offersa number of MA or BA courses as well as a course for Associateshipof the Textile Institute (ATI).

Hinckley College of FurtherEducation (London Road, Hinckley)

This College providesa home for the Knitting Industries Project Update which isrun using the Open Tech system: packages can be put togetheron a number of topics for payment (UKE 30 to 175). Firma contact thecentre, are visited by a consultantand work out what type ofcourse they want; training is followedup by local managers who do not, however,carry out teaching activities. The programme includes a Trainers Checklistintended for company training managers.

Knitting and Lace IndustriesTraining Resources Agency (KLITRA) (7 Gregory Boulevard,Nottingham)

This agency coordinates,within the industry'strade association, vocationaltraining for the knitwear industry. Firms are affiliated tothe agency and funding of up to 50% of costscan in some cases be obtained from 85

the Manpower Services Commission. The agency has,among other things, worked on two interestingprojects on training requirements and trainingpaths.

It has close contacts with highereducation establishments (Leicester and Trent Polytechnics),vocational training agencies (Hinckley College) andresearch organizations (HATRA in Nottingham).

These establishmentscarry out technology transfers to differing extents;an extremely important vehicle in this sphere is the internationallyrecognized journal "Knitting International".

Overall, the Leicestershirearea, even though it coversa larger area than that of eitherManchester or Leeds,can be considered asa Centre of Excellence since all the main functions are catered for ina fairly coordinated way (despite the lack of formal links).

'Training system for the clothingindustry

Training for the British clothingindustry is coordinated by the Clothing and AlliedProducts Industry Training Board (CAPITB), whose headquartersare in Pudsey (80 Richardshaw Lane) near Leeds.

The Bo. rd employssome 20 people for services to industry and 25 for the Youth TrainingScheme (YTS).

9 ei 86

It is a national sectoral organization,which operatesat local level throughregional andarea agencies: - Southern Region: EastAnglia, South-Eastand South-West England and Wales; - Northern Region: Scotland,North-East England, Yorkshire, Humbersideand North-West England.

CAPITB publishes a newsletter (CAPITB-World)and various pamphlets including a list of over 230 trainingagencies (universities, polytechnics,colleges, sundry organizations) active inGreat Britain in theclothing and fashion industry.

Courses on offer include: - postgraduate courses (at theHollings Faculty of Manchester Polytechnicand Leeds University,plus other establishments specificallyfor fashion:Leicester, Manchester and Trent Polytechnics, WinchesterSchool of Art, Royal College of Art in London,Harrow College); - medium to high level courses in higher education:BA, BSc, BTech High(SCOTVEC in Scotland) andACFI (Associateship of theClothing and FootwearInstitute); - lower level courses (college diplomasand certificates, BTech, etc.);

Specializations include: - Clothing technology andmanagement; - Engineering and machinetechnology; - Courses for supervisors andtrainers; 87

Fashion.

Courses can obviously alsobe attended part-time, and there are short vocationaltraining courses.

Eight types of serviceare offered: 1. identification of trainingneeds; 2. development of managerial skills(using a "business- based" approach); 3. vocational trainingcourses for machine operators, trainers, supervisors (regionalseminars or in-house schemes); 4. courses for managers; 5. production management; 6. marketing; 7. Youth Training Scheme (YTS); 4 8. courses on communication techniques.

Firms pay only 0.1% of theirwage bills to fund CAPIT3 (the amount has been greatlyreduced due to increases in paid services). A large proportion of thelevy is refunded in the form ofthe grants paid to firmstaking part in the YTS (V 20 per week per trainee). There is particular interest in the YTS,which pays awage directly to the trainee (UKE 27.30per week in year 1 and UKE 35 in year 2); the scheme, which lasts twoyears, takes the following form (with therespective days of trainingin brackets):

9t3 88

1111,..==aor

INTRODUCTORY COURSE ( 5 )

DEVELOPMENT SPECIFIC COMPUTER ( 5 ) OF PERSONAL TRAINING( 35 ) QUALITIES( 20 )

..97.,.=.' ORB

TRIAL TRIAL TRIAL PERIODS TRAINING( 169 ) PERIODS

9 fi 89

VERIFICATION OF POTENTIAL

151=7111141.11.271:111113..iimaicalSECIa=55.7

BROADER IN-DEPTH [ 35 hours SPECIFIC SPECIFIC n total TRAINING TRAINING TRAINING FOR HIGHER LEVEL JOBS

IN-SERVICE TRAINING (199)

YTS CERTIFICATE EXAMINATIONS 90

Some 5 000 trainees are taking part inthe YTS scheme in 500 firms.

College for the Distributive Trades (CDT) (30 Leicester Square, London)

This Institute coordinates the trainingof all grades of workers in the distributive trades (fromshop assistant:, to managers) and in many sectors of business.

Various types of courses connected withtextiles are offered in the Department of Merchandising: 1. full-time: Textile Distribution Certificater,1 year (there is also a laboratory for textile testing) Higher National Diploma (BIND) at theTech level with possible specialization in TextileMerchandising: 2 years (the BTech National Diploma in Distributionalso includes an option in textiles and fashionwith 3 hours of teaching per week); 2. part-time: (daily or in blocks); Licentiateshipof the Textile Institute (2years, evenings); Basic Textile Certificate (1 evening per weekover 12 weeks); General Textile rertificate (as above); Textile Analysis and Testing (2 e-teningsa week for 2 years).

The College for the Distributive Tradesalso helps, in the areas which it covers, with the vocational guidance programme for students leaving compulsory education aged 16 (Certificate of Pre-vocational Education:1 year full- time). 91

3.2.3. Italy

Cittadegli Saudi di B?_e la (co..so Giuseppe Pella 10, 13051 Biella(VC))

The Citta degli Studi projectat Biella is intendedto bring the various functionscharacteristic ofa Centre of Excellence together inone integrated structure: training (at various levels ofState education and vocational training), research andtechnology transfers.

At present the projectspecializes in woollentextiles, but - especially at the highereducation level- there are plans to diversify intoother areas and, inany case, to forge cooperation linkswith other establishmentsactive in Italy in the industryon issues relating to theirown spheres of activity (industrialtechnical schools, research centres and experimentalstations, Tessile di Como, Busto TextileCentre).

The facilities planned(the first two of whichhave already come into operationat the new site and the third is to be transferredthere during 1988)are as follows: 1. Istituto Tecnico Industriale"Quintino Sella" (upper secondary education); 2. Istituto Tecnotex 4 CittaStudi (vocational training and transfers of technology); 3. The "Oreste Rivetti"Institute of the CNR (National Research Council) (research); 92

4. Specialized college of highereducation (university education).

The main feature of these facilitiesis their physical proximity in the same district: this obviouslyfacilit tes their integration, despite thefact that they arerun by different bodies (1: Ministry ofEducation); 2: Public limited company witha majority holding by the Piedmont Region; 3: National Research Council;4: Polytechnic of Turin), with coordination bythe Citth degli Studi S.p.A.

It is pl,snned to start work in 1988on a residence ("College") for teaching stafL and studentsfrom Italy ani abroad on adjacent land: internAtionalintegration from the point of view of bothusers and technical teaching staff is one of theexpress aims of the venture.

Istituto Tecnico Industriale

In the present Italian educationalsystem training for the textile industry (textile specialists,chemists, dyers, knitters, garment makers, designers)is given only at the upper secondary level, with 5 years of studies following compulsory education (school-leavingcertificate in technical studies- maturity tecnict); the first two years are introductory in nature and specialistskills are taught only in the final threeyears. There are a total of 10 schools of this type (Biella,Turin, Novara, Busto Arsizio, Como, Bergamo, Valdagno,Padua, Parto, Naples); Biella has the textile and dyechemistry sections (some 70 93

or so graduates per year out ofa national total of 500).

Urder the planned reforms ofupper secondary education it seems likely that these sections willto some extent be brought into line; in the meantime,new curricula are being tried out (particularlyas regards the new textile and non-textile technologies, forinstance computer science), within the "AracneProject" in which the Biella School is actively participating,having playeda part in formulating these curricula.

The school has laboratoriesequipped with very up-to-date equipment and carries out analysiswork for third parties, contributing in thisway - and through the work ofsome its teaching staff- to transfers of technology.

"Quintino Sella" has been selectedfor the EEC pilot scheme (I - 22b) "Advanced technology"involving close cooperation between schools andindustry.

It works together \lith the Union ofIndustry in Biella, both within and outside this pilotscheme, on various projects, for example the "TechnologyRound Table" intended to integrate thetraining of designers and stylists.

Istituto Tecnotex Biella Cittadegli Studi S.Q.A.

The institutional tasks ofthis company, whose shareholders include the PiedmontRegion, local and

10w 94

regional industrial associationsand other bodies (Province, Commune, Cassa diRisparmio (Savings Bank) of Biella Unions, Finpiemonte)as well as the Citta degli Stuoi S.p.A., include: 10 vocational training for theunemployed: lower level courses imparting skills to students leaving compulsory education (aged 14) inmanual trades (weaving and spinning operatives,for instance) and higher level courses (forexample for newly qualified specialists and accountants, formechanical engineers specializing in textile machinerymaintenance, etc.). These courses usually lastone year. 2. continuing training for theemployed: this is organized for various technicaland office grades, with timetables ranging fromshort courses to early evening courses lasting 100hours or so; 3. transfers of technology: for thispurpose, Tecnotex has a Pilot Plant which isa genuine business providing services for thirdparties (and is thus largely self-financing) at presentincluding worsted spinning, weaving and dyeingof spun materials. This plant is the central facilityof the entire Citta Studi project since it providesthe wherewithal under genuine industrial conditions- for practical vocational training, advancedtraining, practical demonstrations of new technologiesand research experimentation; all of whichare of benefit, not only to Tecnotex, but to the otheragencies active in the Citta degli Studi; 4. advanced training schemes:for example "Master" 95

courses carried out in cooperation with nationaland international agencies; 5. various support schemes for the textileindustry.

Istituto "Rivetti" of the CM:

This Institute, which has been in operationin Biella for some years, will be transferred during 1988 to thenew site in the Citta Studi district.

Its activities are concerned with the woolindustry, on issues such as certification,energy saving, testing of new technologies and enhancing Italian wools.

Through its links with the main databanksin the industry, it is to provide the input fora "window on technology" which will be disseminated to firms jointlywith Tecnotex: it is of fundamental importancethat questions and answers should not simply be conducted throughthe medium of paper since there is a need for in-depth actionthroughout the industrial fabric (consisting ofsmall and medium-sized firms where thereare problems of dissemination and testing) ;the training of technical managers is obviously part of this actions, since they must be keptpermanently up to date on technological innovations.

Specialized colle e of hi her education

The possibility of organizing lowerlevel university courses (along the lines of engineeringcourses abroad) 96

lasting two or threeyears after upper secondaryeducation has been introduced onlyrecently by Italianlegislation.

The Citth Studi in Biellais hoping to startorganizing courses cif this type in the 1988-89academic year and is to set up- - with the backing and agreement ofthe Polytechnic of Turin- a college of higher education specializing in textiletechnology.

Courses will last threeyears on a full-time basis, including one term of experience in industry. Subjects taught can be divided intothree main "strands": 1. general scientific subjects(mathematics, physics, chemistry, plant engineering,etc.) with an engineering °slant" (40% oftotal timetable); 2. textile subjects (fibres,spinning, weaving, finishing, textile chemistry,etc. - 40% of total); 3. managerial subjects(company management, costing, adva -ed management techniques- 20% of total).

Courses will be housed forthe time being inTecnotex premises; there are plansto build suitable premisesin the future- still in the Citth Studi district- which should provide theopportunity to equiplaboratories for those specializations(chemical fibres,cotton, etc.) for which there iscurrently no experimentalplant. 97

3.2.4. Federalgt115-1_241Y

North Rhine- Westphalia

This Land of the Federal Republicof Germany playsa major role the textile industry.

It has a number of facilities bothfor training at various levels and for research and- through the latter - transfers of technology.

The existence of the university(Technische Hochschuleol Aachen) completes the system whichseems overall to satisfy the criteria forconsideration as a Centre of Excellence (Stuttgart is the onlyother place in Germany in a similar position).

Some further commentson the German education and training system, with particular referer.:eto textiles, are necessary at this point.

After general education (including4 years at a Grundschule and 5 to 9years of secondary education, i.e. 5-6 at a Vauptschule, 6 ata Realschule and 9 at a Gymnasium) which is compulsoryfor 9 years, a range of options are available and it ispossible in some cases (alth.,ugh these are rare in practice)to transfer between streams.

The paths most frequently ,.ollowedin the textile and 98

clothing sectorare: 1. following the Abitur (Gymnasiumschool-leaving certificate): enrolment ata Technische Hochschule (techAological uni7ersity) leadingto the award of the title Dipl.Ing.(TH) zifter 4 years( e terms). This award makes it possibleto go on to a doctorate (Dr.Ing.) with outlets intoresearch and top-level management; 2. following the Abitur, butmore commonly after a Realschnle certificate andtwo years or so of industrial experience,enrolment at a Fachhochschule (cclleige of higher education)which leads to theaward of the title Dipl.Ing.(FH)over3iyears. The normal outlet is into middleto top management in industry. 2. after secondary school(often Haupts:.7hule),enrolment in the dual system for3 years (2 years forskilled machine operators 4-1 year for setters):the weekly ratio between in-houseexperience (Betrieo) and vocational school (Berufschule)is generally 4:1. After two years experience,it is possible to enrolat a Fachschule (trade school)for 2 years becominga

Techniker (thereare other channels for enrolment ina Fachschule, for example 7years experience, or 2years in the dual system 3 years experience).

The institutions visited(see notes below)were: 1. Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitut(DW: - German Wool Research Institute),Vcitmanplatz 9, Aachen:research, transfers of technologyand doctoral theses (in chemistry or engineering); 99

2. Institut far Textiltechnik derRWTH (Textile Technology Institute of theTechnological University of North Rhine-Westphalia);Eilfschornstrasse 18, Aachen: university technical training(Dip.A.Ing.TH) and research; 3. Niederrhein Fachhochschule(Lower Rhineland College of Higher Education), Webschulestrasse31, Monchengladbach: higher technicaltraining (Dipl.Ing.FH) and technical assistance; 4. Techniker Fachschule far Textilwesen(Technical School for Textile Technology),Platz der Republik 1, Monchengladbach: technical training afterthe dual system.

DWI - Aachen

Optimum links with the university(where the director and vice-director of the institute teach)provide an ideal basis for funding and studentavailability: in the textile department (the other departmentdeals with insulin) there are 10 researchers (PhD) 25 students 20 engineers and technicians ¢ 4 trainees employedas laboratory assistants. 1 researcher thus coordinatesthe work of approximately two students.

Students work on projects for therequired period, projects being decided by the Institute. Demand generally exceeds the number of places available(about 1000 applications per month). DvJI programmesare drawn up by a ScientificCommittee including representativesfrom member industries(30 full members and 80 supportingmembers, including associations). Each project is monitoredby a working group with a chairman from industry;this ensures the transfer. Sources of funds includea smallish direct grant from Gesamttextil (the German textileconfederation) (DM 60 000 per annum to DWIand OM 20 000 to the university). The Research Committeeof Gesamttextil represents, however, textileinterests in the AIF (Industrial Research Association)which has funds of DM 100 million and hasa membership of 80 associations, mainly of small andmedium-sized industries. Gesamttextil manages to obtain a sizeableproportion of the funds available which itpasses on to other agencies including DWI. Gesamttextil is inessence a filter between industrial demand (coordinatedby DWI) and AIF funding.

Gesamttextil also fundsthe transfer, i.e. thecost over and above the DM 120paid by the contractorfor each DWI -oject (220 for the firm);DWI has to provide Gesamttextil witha quarterly list of projects andtheir costs. There are some 150 projectsin total peryear (+ 100 free, and non-financed,services to members). DWI publishes a journal(INFOTEC) for the clothingindustry. There is no system oflink-people, which would beuseful. The Institute'sresearch areas include wooltechnology (especially as regards chemistryand finishing) and insulin. 101

RWTH - Aachen

The technical university (Rheinisch-WestfAlischTechnische Hochschule, RWTH) of Aachen has 35000 students (and 10 000 lecturers and permanent staff).

There are 40 students in the textile andtextile chemistry streams: the relative institutes belongto the faculties of mechanical engineering and mathematics/naturalsciences respectively; the distinction betweenDipl.Ing.TH (a minimum of 8 terms, usually 10) andFH is fundamental: students go from the latter into industryand cannot work towards a PhD unless (in practice)they restart the curriculums University research is funded byfirms and allocated both to students and to techniciansrecruited from tt,e market (with a maximumtwo-year contract); the main research topicsare textile mechanics, with particular reference tonew technology (open end, air looms, etc.), making use of the exellentsupply of laboratory instrumentation.

Standard courses are divided into4 4 terms, with a preliminary certificate at thehalfway stage (which can be used for transfer to other universities):during the first four terms general mechanical engineeringsubjects are taught to all students in the faculty;specific textile subjects are taught in the second foul.terms.

RWTfl also trains teachers for Fachhochschulenand technical schools. Some analysis work is also undertaken for industry. 102

Fachhochschule Monchengladbach

The FH has a total of 9500students divided between

M8nchengladbach and Krefeld;2000 students are enrolledin the textile and clothingdepartments (at Monchengladbach).

Courses (which are less advancedand predominantly "textile" based in comparisonwith those at theRWTH) last 3i years andare preceded by at least 6 monthspractical experience (60% of students extendthis practical experience up to 2years while waiting for admission). They are aged about 25on completion and 95% go into industry (in contrastto the TH).

In the clothing sectore practicalexperience can be obtained within the FH sincethere is a pilot plant (with sales of products). The school has 40 lecturers 36 company technicians.

Diploma thesesare usually carried out jointly with industry on specific topics(general practical experience is obtained before admission9as mentioned above).

Some research projectsare financed by industryor the government (supervised by lecturerswho also work privately as consultants);the school carries out analysis work for third parties.

At Krefeld thereare research institutes fr chemistry, textile technology and drycleaning.

111 103

In the continuing training.area courses are held on Saturdays for 9teister'7, i.e.specialists, (6 hours/week over 3t years with a Chamber of Commerceexamination). Seminars (for salesmen,managers etc.) and tr ining schemes for individual firmscan also be organized.

Techniker Fachschule far TextilwesenNonchen%ladbach

The textile and clothing divisionhas about 70 students in each stream, all of whomare full-time; in other disciplines (suchas mechanical engineering) there isa ratio of 3:1 between studentson evening courses (over 4 years) and full-time students (2years).

At the end of compulsory education,there are normally 2 years of the dual system (for example 4 days ina company and 1 at Berufschule), followedby 2 years of in-company experience; after this training,students can enrol at the Fachschule andare admitted at the age of 22 or thereabouts. After the award of the Technikerdiploma, a few students goon to Fachhochschule; the majority, however, find new jobs in industry(which they left with no guarantee of being rehired) ina higher position, for example foremanor assistant foreman. 104 3.2.5. BELGIUM

Institut Superieur Industriel del'Etat rue de Seroule 8, 4800 Verviers Tel: 087/223040-221117 Director: Fernand Tiquet

The Institute, which isadministered by the main officeat Huy, awards university leveldiplomas of 'candidature ingenieur polyvalente"(multi-skilled engineering candidate) (initial 2 years)and "Ingenieur industriel textile" (industrial textileengineer) (4 years in total).

Subjects taught in the firsttwo years (candidature)are divided into 3groups: a. scientific training (mathematics,statistics, physics, chemistry, etc.): 49%; b. technical training (mechanical,electrical engineering, thermodynamics, etc.):46%; c. humanities (socio-economics, English):5%.

In the two specialistyears, subjects are split as follows: a. technical training (computing, automation,etc): 9%; b. specialist training (spinning, weaving,etc.): 80%; c. humanities (company financialmanagement, etc.): 11%.

The Institute has alsl enteredinto cooperation agreements with both k7entexbel andCELAC.

CEFRE (COBOT, Burggravenl.aan 40, 9000 Ghent Tel: 0)1-222614

Director 02neral: H. DeLt'euw

This is a non-profit-makingassociation called (in French) Centre de Formation, de Recyclageand de Reconversio pour 105

l'Industrie Textile et de laBonneterie 'Training, Retraining and RedeploymentCentre for the Textile and Knitwear Industry); itwas set up in 1984 and is governed by a Joint Committee ofemployers and union representatives. It h4s a permanent staff ofsome 20 or so people, supplemented bya network of some 60 part-time consultants.

All courses are free(even nindividual" courses); funds come from the National Labour Office(ONEM) and the ITCB. Activities are organized throughoutBelgium, although they are centralized in Flanders where most ofthe Belgian textile industry isconcentrated.

CEFRET has a particularly wellstocked media library which can be made available to firms and includes,for example, video cassetteson various types of process; it alsoedits very detailed pamphlets describingthe vocational profiles of the various textiletrades.

It organizes four maintypes of activity:

1. Permanent training

This accounts for most ofthe training offered by CEFRET in accordance withprogrammes which take account of requirements emerging in the industrialsector. 751 people in employment,on secondment from their firms (19 458 man-hours),were involved in 1986, as wellas 139 jobseekers (5547 man-hours) placedby the National 106

Placement Office. Courses have a modularstructure and are put together and rehashedfrom time to time inline with requirements.

In- company work experienceperiods are ai:o organizedfor the unemployed and forteachers.

2. Individual training

The work undertaken infirms by the link- people is fundamental: they gatherand define the demand for training and translateit into permanentcourses (see above) or into individualschemes (for the mostpart within firms); CEFRETprovides trainers for thispurpose.

3. Apprenticeship in industry

CEFRET plays a major role inthe part-time teachingsystem (final 2 years of compulsoryeducation) described above and introduced by theLaw of 29 Tune 1983 (whichextended compulsory education tothe age of 18). The National Collective Labour Agreementfor the Textile andKnitwear Industry, signedon 30 January 1987, introduced training for young people inthe textile sector:courses therefore began in the 1987/88 academicyear.

Programmes are annual andvery diversified (126 in total, although it should beborne in mind that traineescan diversify only if theychange host firms). 107

75% of trainees are subsequently takenon permanently by their host firms, the remainder receivingassistance from CEFPET0

4. Courses for teachers

There is a joint committee withtextile teachers. CEFRET helps to keep themup to date with sem.nars (organized in cooperation with Centexbel insome cases), media library assistance, teacher/firm "symbiosis"schemes, etc.

CELAC Avenue du Parc 69E, Parc Industriel dePetit Rechain, Chaineux, Tel: 087/330147 Director: L. Rousseau

This is ;-1 Wool and Chemistry Research andMonitoring Centre set up as a non-profit-making associationby employers in Verviers in 1953.

It carries out analysis work (textilesand chemistry) in suitably equipped laboratoriesand provides technical assistance for firms in the form ofconsultancy, research, certification, technical and commercialinformation, conferences, etc. The advanced courses for textile graduates or engineers have alreadybeen mentioned.

CENTEXBEL Head Office: 24 rue Montoyer, 1040Brussels Tel: 02/2309330 108

Verviers Laooratory:Zoning de Petit Rechain, Avenue du Parc 69H, 4655Chaineux Ghent Laboratou: SintPietersniewstraat 41r 9000 Ghent Officers: J. Stryckmann- Director General J. Grignet Verviers Division J. Knott - Verviers Division(chemistry) M. Van Lancker- Ghent Division

There are fifteenor so researchers at Verviers andabout twenty at Ghent, plus 10 link-peopleand students preparing their theses. A particularly interestingaspect of Centexbel's activities,predominantly research, documentation, analysis (atGhent) and some training seminars (see above), isthe system of technical assistance for firms carriedout through two types of operator commuting between firmsand the central laboratories:

1. "technological guidance" officerswhose aim is to assist firms, especiallysmall and medium-sized firms, providing them withinformation on scientific and industrial advances whichcan be directly applied and helping them to findways of increasing productivity and to implement productand process innovations. The needs of industrycan be pinpointed and better defined in this way: thesemay take the form of simple bibliographical enquiries,laboratory tests and research and even genuinesmall-scale research projects; 109

2. "liaison" officers whose task ismore specifically to help firms to transpose Centexbel'sresearch findings into their own industrial situationsand to promote research activities in textile firms.

In both cases, a feature which is typicalof the Belgian support system for the textilesector (discussed above in respect of training at CEFRET)seems to be emerging, i.e. timely "on the spot" monitoring ofthe actual needs of industry and transfers of findings whichare very effective because of their comprehensivenature.

It in clear that a model of thistype is fully in keeping with the "philosophy" of thefunctions of a sectoral and regional Centre of Excellence (Belgiumcan be seen as a whole as a region, bearing in mindgeographical distances).

As pointed out above, Belgiumcan be seen as an area for a single Centre of Excellence withthe result that all the structures described above have to beconsidered together and all, with no exceptions,converge on this objective. They provide, each in itsown field, all the functions which have been pinpointed inthe general report as the features of a Centre of Excellence:research, technology transfers, school education andvocational training, inan overall system covering the textileindustry as a whole. The degree of integrationbetween the various I

110

establishments, whichcan and has been verifiedeven in terms of the personal relationships betweenthe respective officers, seems satisfactory: themost relevant pointof connections if it isnecessary to providea more formal link, is in alllikelihood Centexbelwhich is active throughout the country and maintains c)perationallinks with the university education system 0, with CEFRET this latter organizationcan act as an intermediaryfor secondary education inthe textile sphere,while the role of other vocationaltraining institutes,not examined in this reports has stillto be worked out, butis probably of little importance inthe light of the 1987agreement and the previous creationof CEFRET asa State-recognized joint body where bothsides of industryare represented.

11 111

3.2.6. Initiatives at EEC level

A wide range of research and deve'-xnent, technology transfer and training assistanceprogrammes have been launched and funded by the Commissionof the European

Economic Communities: it is preciselythese three fields of action which have beenhighlighted as the criteria for a Centre of Excellence in the textile industry.

Among the variousprogrammes (listed and described ina Comitextil (Coordination Committee forTextile Industries in the EEC) document entitled"Inventory of European Community Research Programmes), thefollowing are of special importance for thepurposes of this report:

A. Research and development

1. BRITE (Basic research on industrialtechnologies for Europe): in its present form (BRITE 1),the programme has little to offer the textile industry,with the exception of the clothing industry(flexible materials technology): Comitextil's ResearchCommittee is thus endeavouring to make it easier for topicsof interest to the textile industry to be includedin the future BRITE 2. It should be noted, however, thatsome of the agencies discussed in thisreport (the ITF, for instance) have played an importantrole in promoting and coordinating the (few) projectssubmitted and accepted, bringing together both nationaland international industrial partnersas required by the rules of BRITE. 2. ENERGY demonstration projects: two projectshave been submitted to the European Commission through Comitextil. 3. Programmes relating to the protcctiou of the a..1

1 1 2

ENVIRONMENT: the agenciesrepresented on Comitextil's Research Committee haveagreed on and drawnup a long list of topics involvingthe textile industry. 4. APPLIED METROLOGY: this topicis being studiedby Centexbel and Denkendorf.

B. Transfers of technology

1. Action 29: MODERNIZATIONOF TRADITIONAL INDUSTRIES: action in thisarea was carried out in 1986/87 together with the ENEA(Italian agency foralternative fuel sources) secretariatin the textile industry(as well as in the footwearand ceramics industries). This made it possibleto strengthen the tiesalready existing between agenciesactive in the fieldof research and developmentand transfers oftechnology in the various MemberStates and to lay the foundations for future,more formal coordination. The action (in which ITF,the Shirley Institute,DWI and Citta Studioamong others, took part) has ledin particular to anawareness of the need to update

information on the positionof supply and demandin some priority areas (CAD,new materials, sensors, cutting technologies)and the organizationof 4 seminars held byexperts ,rom the variousMember States with large-scaleindustrial participation: - CAD applications in thetextile industry (Barcelona, 28.3.87); - fixation and migrationof colouxing :Agentsduring high frequency treatment(Ghent, 7.5.87);

1° ;13

use of sensors in some stagesof textile production (Veenendaal, 23.9.87); - quality control (Biella,29.10.87).

2. Action under the SPRINTprogramme: some of the agencies discussed in thisreport (ITF, DWI, Rivetti) have submitted, togetherwith other agencies,a proposal for transnaticnalcooperation between industrial research institutes,technical institutes and similar organizations(28): the aim is toset up a technology transfer networkfor European textilefirms based on in-depth informaticlw,on industrial demand and the know-how of individualinstitutes. There are also plans to submit a connectedapplication for the promotion of Europeanseminars on topics relatingto research and innovation(2C) with particularreference to the ITMA Textile MachineryExhibition held in Paris in October 1987.

C. Training

1. COMETT: thisprogramme is intended to promote cooperation between universitiePand industry on issues connected withtechnology. A particularly important objective- in the context of the creation of a European networkof Centres of Excellence is to promote the joint developmentof trainingprogrammes and exchanges of experienceand to respond tothe cha.-.ges taking place intechnology. 114

Particular proposals include tile creationof a European network of associations betweenuniversities and industry, the promotion of teacherand student exchanges and the inclusion of continuingtraining in the scheme.

A network of Centres of Excellence wouldobviously be the ideal way, in the textile industryat least, of bringing these ventures toa satisfactory conclusion.

2. ERASMUS: this programme is intendedto promote exchanges of students and to increise cooperation between universities in the EEC and includes measures to assist student mobility and provide mutual recognition of study awards. A specific part of this programme is to set up a European university network in which Centres of Excellence should beable to take part. 1 1 5

4. CO- LOS%

Analysis of the variouscase studies included in the sample of potential Centres ofExcellence has made it possible to formulate the structuralcriteria (assessed only from documentation when the samplewas being selected) in an improvedway and to examine the operating criteria, which were not assessedfrom the documentation, in detail.

The structural criteria fora Centre of Excellence can be defined as follows: - geographical comparability, i.e.a socio-economic sub- area with significant numbers of textile-producing firms, or sectoral comparability ina specific product area (knitweare weaving) irrespective ofthe geographical location of productionunits; - existence of basic education facilities(State education) at the upper and lowersecondary school level and atthe university andhigher education level; - existence of vocational trainingfacilities for young school leavers trying to find theirfirst jobs (after upper and lower secondary school) and for continuing training; - existence of facilitics for researchand technological dissemination, operating bothas a supplement to teaching in basic education andvocational training and as independent providers of services for production units working in the sub-ayea and/orr n the sector. 116

To assess operating criteria,it is necessaryto monitor the existence of particularconditions of overallcontact between the various agenciesinvolved and the existenceof synergetic interactionsbased on specific objectives (formally in somecasese informally in others).

These types of synergymust, however, be basedon organic methods and procedures, whichmay well be informal but are not random and can thus be reproducedand defined from the point of view of objectives,resources used and methods.

Operating criteriacan be summarized brieflyas follows: - reciprocal contacts betweenthe various agencies located in thearea in question to disseminate information on issues relatingboth to basic education and vocational training andto research and the dissemination of technology; - interactions between vocationaltraining and basic education; - interactions between vocationaltraining and basic education and the firmsworking in the referencearea and/or sector; interactions between trainingfacilities and research and technological dissemination.

These interactionsas a whole pave the way towardssynergy between the various agenciesinvolved in the reference area or sector and in thisway provide the foundations for the creation ofa Centre of Excellenceas a unitary and 1 1 7

organic structure able to providespecific "services" (training and technological researchand dissemination) in an integrated way.

This condition could enablea number of Centres of Excellence in the various EEC MemberStates, along the line3 of those included in the sample,to work closely together on common projects, overcomingstructural and legislative differences in the variousnational contexts in the areas of training andresearch and technological dissemination taken as separate issues.

The various Centres of Excellence couldin this way be compared in terms of the objectivesto be achieved, which are more or less comparable since they relate toa specific production system, suchas the textile industry, which is also fairly comparable interms of its product and process technologies despitedifferences in theways in which industry is organizedin different countries.

This condition providesconcrete potential for the development of supranational jointprojects relating to the Centre of Excellenceas a whole and not to the different agencieson which it is based, which, in contrast, embody all the differences andspecial features of training and research andtechnological dissemination in EEC Member States.

Using the Centre of Excellencemodel would in substance have the effect of integrating thefar-reaching 1 1a

differences between MemberStates, before they haveany impact on joint work, at levelshigher than those of the individual facilities operatingwithin the Centres of Excellence themselves. Sim.. integration would takeplace at the level of a productionapparatus such as the textile industry, which is fairlycomparable in all the different countries, it would be possibleto use a potential future European network of Centres ofExcellence as the main framework of reference fordevelopment andcooperaton initiatives in theareas of training and research and technological dissemination whichthe EEC could undertake (and has to some extentalready undertaken, although without adequate attentionto potential synergy between the various functions).

All the Centre of Excellencecase studies analysed satisfy the structural and operatingcriteria discussed above.

There is, in general, genuinesynergy and integration between the various facilitiesforming the Centres, although this is often managedinformally.

The different ways in whicheducation and training and research and technologicaldissemination are organized in the five Member States analysedare important in this rr,spect.

In some cases, for instanceFrance and West Germany, the close links between andcomplementary nature of basic education and vocationaltraining providean objective 119

basis for developingsynergy between these twoaspects of training at the Centre ofExcellence level. The unambiguous and minutely detailedway in which occupational skillsare defined facilitates synergy

between the training systemand production structures(as is again true of France andWest Germany).

On the other hand, theopen and almost "self-managed" structure of the British trainingsystem could allow, in the various Centre of Excellencesituations, high levels of synergy between,on the one hand, the permanentor continuing vocational trainingsystem and the production system and, on the other hand, basiceducation.

Finally, the almost pathologicalvagueness of many of the elements of the Italian trainingsystem allows scope for interesting institutionalcreativity, making it possible to try out forms, oftennew, of mixed public and private management of training and of researchand technological dissemination, facilitating theestablishment of formal integration links betweenthe facilities makingup potential Centres of Excellence.

The contributions made bythe different countries, exemplified here bya few typical situations, could make it possible tomove from a situation of potential and informal Centres of Excellenceto a concrete situation which can be formally implemented.

This passage depends,however, on a number of factors: 120

- the will of the facilities involved(although, to our satisfaction, a great deal ofinterest has been evinced in the case studies analysedas regards this factor and the possible concrete advantagesthat greatersupra- national integration couldprovide, not just for the EEC, have been viewed extremelyfavourably; (insome cases, for instance research into wool,informal cooperation has been taking placefor some time): - the legal and institutionalframework of the various Member States; - practical and convinced supportfrom public institutions, in particular fromemployers' and union organizations in the MemberStates involved;

From the point of view of functions,a Centre of Excellence which has been formallyidentified and established should operate ata number of levels as regards the social system; - at the vocational training level withan organic system which enables: ao closer links between basic educationand the demand for skills coming from thelabour market; ba the launch of a flexiblesystem of permanent and continuing vocational trainingwith a modular structure and a high level of flexibilityas regards possible personalizedcurricula, in the design of whicha specific guidance structure could play a part; co the development of technologicaland organizational "design" work enablinga more timely updating and 1 2 1

revision of work organization modelsand the occupations to which they relate; - at the level of technological research and dissemination, by expanding disseminationactivities within the fabric of industry and updatingteaching contents within training facilities; - at the level of research and technological dissemination, by coordinating, in closeuooperation with national research facilities, specificresearch and technological dissemination schemescovering problems which are of particular interestto the reference area or sector of individualCentres of Excellence.

From the point of view of working methods,the criteria for defining a Centre of Excellenceas an integrated structure of the type described in thisreport are chiefly: the existence of genuinely operativefunctios (even if they are not structurally specialized) whichensure links and an interface with otherCentres of Excellence and with the EEC and whichensure the implementation of projects based on the work ofthe Centres; - the existence of executive designfunctions which make it possible to workout the specific details of supra- national project proposals and proposalsof national interest; the existence of operative planning functionsable to put joint projects into practice.

.1:)0 122

From the institutionalpoint of view,Centres of Excellence could berun in a variety ofways depending on national circumstances;it is necessaryin all cases, however, to coordinatethe functions andassess the technical and scientificviability of theschemes and activities carriedout.

Structures of this typeare already in existencein the five MemberStates examined in thisreport, whether at national level (forinstance the GermanAIF or French ITF systems) or specific to small areas (forinstance themany examples of geographical and sectoral consortiaor public companies in Italy).

If we are to proceedbeyond the initialstage of feasibility examined inthis report, toa stage at whicha potential internationalCentre of Excellencemodel can be designed and experimentally launched, a specificstudy must be undertaken to evaluate theconcrete potential for promoting integrationfrom the outsetbetween the individual functions in a specificarea and/or sector) taking those EEC trainingand research schemesreviewed briefly in Section3.2.5. as a basis.

This will facilitate subsequent integrationat the overall Centre of Excellencelevel.

The inherent features of the textileindustry could make it a very good fieldin which to work,taking a number "case studies" as a test bench fur thetheories outlined

13i.. 123

in this report.

Among the problems emergingfrom our analysis ofthe national case studies(for the solution ofwhich, moreover, the existence ofa network of Centres of Excellence could providea very effective means ofstudy and action), the following,at least, should benoted: a. the differing stressplaced on in-houseexperience in vocational training curriculaand - in somecases - in school curricula (theborderlinecase being that of the Federal Republic ofGermany); b. in connection with theabove point (whichmay entail substantial differencesin traineeages at the end of training schemes withsimilar objectives).the problem of defining whetherstudy awards are equivalent; ca the variety of agenciesto which medium to highlevel continuing training isdelegated in the variousMember States (the exceptionbeing France in whichthe ITF has a predominant role).

132 125

ANNEX

T3CHOOLOGY T ZPET In T =TM) nal:3S

1. PRESENTATION In 1962 NASA, the American space agency, launcheda programme designed to accelerate andextend the transfer ofspace research spinoff technologies toother sectors of theeconomy.

The main resources deployedare:

- a series of publications describing thenew technologies developed under NASA programmes;

- ten regional offices forthe dissemination of information; - a number of industrial applicationscentres (Indianapolis,

Pittsburg, Storrs, ResearchTriangle Park, Albuquerque,Los Angeles) through whichpotential users can gainaccess to information and technical, scientific and managerialknow-how; - a computer software information and management centre(programmes for industry andGovernment agencies).

The NASA Centkrs- even making allowance for the diversity of national situations- are an interesting example of how real services can be madeavailable to the industrialsystem.

Particulars of innovations that are spinoffs from specialprogrammes are entered in specialist databasesthat can be accessed by companies via centresthroughout the country (most ofthem at universities). These ccntrescan point a company seeking information in the right direction and above all they can offersupport in the use of technology.

133 126

2. OBSERVATIONS 0.0 Introduction

In the American economic system, thereare no variables - cultural or scientific- that cannot be promoted on a financial basis.It is easier than elsewhere, then, toexamine tho process of technology transfer in the J.S. in terms of: 1.0 product: what is being transferred

2.0 current and future market: where the technology isbeing transferred

3.0 promotion and sales media andresources: how to t4 the technology

1.0 Product: what is beina_transferred

In essence the technology av&ilable is information.As far as the product is concerned, then, "technology transfer"and "information transfer" are 'synonymous. The information is contained ina series of electronic memories called databases.

The NASA centers do not create theirown databases, but are users only.

Users sign agreements with the databaseowners entitling them to access the information against payment.

The air or H8St teci&DOlo tarcorgi tors is not to crest technolo 4 just to pake its industrial and cowl rots), use possible. 127

1.1 Databases The product being sold, the is the inforEation contoinedin th databases.

The owners and/or creatorsof the databases usedare: a. - Central Administration,more specifically the Department of Energy and the Department ofCommerce b. - Professional associations (forexample, graduates in chemistry or textiles technology,professional promotion groups)

Recently firms set up forthe specific purpose of creating databases have made theirappearance. c. - Public Research Centers(structured and funded alongmore or less the same linesas the National Research Council in Italy) d. - Private universities

e. - NASA

The centers use and providenot only the information derived from NASA studies or researon but also any informartionazisting on the utarftet in database fora.

The information containedin the databases is on established technologies but, throughtheir contact with the universities, Re2earch Centers and NASA,experts are able to find out about technologies in the researchstage as welJ..

1.2 What information is containedin the databases? The Centers can replyto enquiries about processes, products and marketing, Typicalenquiries are: a. - Have any patents been filedin the US on a particular subject? 128

b. - How is a product or material used in a given technological process?

c. - What are the other potentialuses of a product? d. - What is the potential market fora given product?

As will be noted, the information is not juston scientific or technological subjects in the narrow sense; it also extends to potential applications, market, profitability, etc.

1.3 The Centers state that they offer five types ofservice: a. - Information (databases) b. - Engineering studies: research applied to specificproblems (especial) .erials) c. - Technical and scientific publications d. - The identification of emerging technologies e. - Database management planning

1.4 The financial basis for database provisionis as follows: a. - Private or public bodies create and update databases; b. - They offer them for sale toanyone wishing to buy, including the Central Administration; c. - Databases survive only if theyare useful enough to acquire a remunerative market; d. Theae are bodies whose business it isto group and sell links with several databases (Dialog, for example); e. - Any company can purchase the right to put queriesto the

databases, except in the case of information that isa military secret.

We shall see why companies normally prefer togo to the

Centers rather than reach direct agreements with databasecwncrs.

Li ny . .").°411111 .111116.16 slat 1.11 I .

129

7carketv then, is essentially the ju of Sher databmses ar vicWecra@ting the incentive for their improve-e,-. andplating. The structure of the ?avenue derivedby the technology transfer centers, which are non-profitmaking,is as follows: 90% from invoicedturnover 5% from NASA for serving as a link forspecificprogrammes 5% from CentralAdministration Profits are reinvested. Any lossesare met by Central Administration, althoughit then has the right to close downthe center.

1.5 y_It.ershewaCer'ate can be shown in diagraniaticform:

US Administration- NASA - Local Authority

give rise to: Using databases with: originating from: U1.0.versities - Experts - US Administration Center/Agency - Private associations - Public research centres (abont 700) - NASA arpraides.e.clients NASA4------G"---ov*::rnrnentZ Military Com anies Departments esearch

1.6 For the creation and use of databasesithere must first be professionals suchas: - experts in information-gathering and computerstorage - experts in software for database integration programs

Ji 130

2.0 The market: wh, ays the information stored in the databases? The agencies are not widelyused in the United States. NERAC in Storrs, Connecticut, says that it receives 2,500 queriesa month; NIAC in Pittsburg has 200subscriber companies, althoughthey include some of the largest companiesin the world.

geocurm to those two atomaios by companiesis the r w ult of

specifir efforts that have continued formore thb.a 15 years ( RAC).

"On-line technological information"is not an easy productto sell. It calls for companies thatare prepared to pay to obtain help and that are therefore research-minded.

Unless companies are first clearin their minds about the questions they are asking, it is hard- and often serves little purpose - to give any replies.

The approach taken to theproblem of how to activate demand will be discussed in section 3.0.

2.1 The market consists of Governmentagencies, universities and companies.

2.2 Companies use the services offered forvarious reasons: a. - for diversification

b. to obtain further informationon specific innovations in the proces:3es or products they use c. - to solve unforeseen problems d. to inform themselves on markets

2.3 The companies making themost use of the service are in the following sectors (excluding callson the service from Central Administration and the military authorities): 131

- computers - information technology - space - pharmaceuticals - the use of new materials

Few enquiries are received from textile firms.The agencies tend to serve companies in their own geographical area and this listmay vary, but the textile industry consistentlycomes low on the list.

2.4 The companies that use this type of service tendto have a workforce of over 200. The main supporters ofthe programme are large companies, even though- for example - the Connecticut

authorities oblige NERAC by law to charge concessionaryrates to smaller companies.

2.5 Companies specializing in higi- technology manufacturingor services tend not to use this type of servicebut to be direct partners or colleagues of the universitiesor the agencies. It seems that companies regarding themselvesas super- specialists in their own field adopt a similar attitude,even though they do not use particularly ophisticatedtechnologies. The Pittsburg Chamber (roughly comparableto our Chamber of Commerce) has conducted a survey of the localcompanies to find out how useful the information handled by agenciescan be in an area faced with serious economic and employment problems,like Pittsburg, whose economy is based on steel production. Theresponses it obtained were positive on the whole.

2.6 Everyone regards technology transferas one of the most significant factors in the new post-industrialera, and considerable growth in this type of activity is predicted. 132

3.0 The media and resources for thepromotion and sale of technology transfer

As already mentioned, the companiesmaking up the potential market for "computerized technologicalinformation" were not prepared or predisposed to makecontact with the transfer Centers. When NASA was startingup in the 1960s it tried to make contact with companies in twoways:

1. first through lectures, invitingindustrialists tocome and find out about the potentialfor the application of technological information. This approachdid not work. 2. then through "industrial applicationcenters" which companies had to visit for themselves. This approachdid not work. Not until the 1970swas a new approach adopted: what might becalled "bringing the experts out of their officesand onto the shopfloor". The problem is not anew one in American society. Universities, especially private universities,have to sell their product, "education", on the market,and the quality of that product must be such that it can be purchasedat an economically viable price. Because of this,a professor who has achieved a reputatio6 in his own particular scientific field (inthe Nobel Prize race) has to contend with the need for his researchto have a practical outcome, one that can be used by the companies whocreate this reputation, so that there is an inflow of commissionsfor further research. Thus education and research combine inan economic *virtuous circle*. This problem is illustrated by theexperience of the Robotic Centre in Carnegie and Mellon University(a private university in Pittsburg), 70% of whoserevenue is derived from industry and 30% from Department of Defense orders.The 70% of funding from theopen market is for research whose findingscan be put to industrial and economic use. 133

3.1 Technology transfer flow diagram

salesmen

experts COMPANIES researchers OR software experts OTHER USERS industry technicians

3.2 The need for an intermediary betweenthe Product and the Market is created by two factors:

1. The product (information) isavailable in a format in which it cannot be iirectly used by companies. Thisis because of the enormous volume of information and the difficultiescompanies often encounter in identifying anddefining their problem in such a way as to make a database searchuseful, and so that the information can then be translatedinto terms of the company's actual situation.

2. Companies have to be encouraged tobecome clients: the level of spontaneous demand is very low.

In other words, someone has to createthe market.

3.3 The image and credibility ofthis intermediate factor in technology transferare of vital importance. 3.4 The "technological informationtransfer" salesman,a

professional quite unknownto us in Europe, is fairlycommon in the US, in view of the systemof funding universityresearch and education there. His job isto contact companies, tellthem about the product and stimulatedemand.

1. Research technicians

These are the key factorsin the transfer process.They: - interrogate the databases - interpret the information they obtain in the light of theclient's queries

- conduct further research on the informationthey find - maintain contact with universities andresearch centers - draw up research plans wherenecessary - act as an intermediary between the clients and the experts ina particular see-or or technology

- when required, agree on programs withthe software designers

2. Sector technicians

These are experts ina specfic technology. Inmany cases they are not employed directly by thetransfer center but work in companies or the universities or are self - employed, being calledin as outside consultants. 135

3.5 NEPAC personnel are employed by the Statec. Connecticut and NIAC personnel by the State of Pennsylvania(under the same kind of arrangements as are applicab)e to State universities).Nevertheless, their salaries are reimbursedby the two agencies. In tne United States, unlike Italy, switchingfrom the public to the private sector and to the university world isvery easy and flexible, especiallyas - pay structures are comparable; - the selection system is similar; - the career prospects are good. 136

LIST OF ORGANIZATIONS VISITED

FRANCE Troyes

1. INSTITUT U!'LVERSITAIRE DE TECHNOLOGIEDE TROYES M. J.P. CHERAIN rue de Quebec 8.P. 396 10026 Troyes Cedex Tel. 25 - 820667

2. LYCEE PROFESSIONEL DES LOMBARDS 10 - 16 avenue des Lombards 10000 Troyes Tel. 25 - 823123

3. CENTRE DE LA BONNETERIE DE TROYES M.S. Becard Technical Director for VocationalTraining 10 - 16 avenue des Lombards 10042 TROYES CEDEX Tel. 25 - 823123

N.B. Consultant for all organizationsin the Troyes area is: H. LEONARD Officer in Charge CHAMBRE SYNDICALE DES INDUSTRIES DELA BONNETERIE DE L'AUBE B.P. 115 10004 TROYES CEDEX 25 - 731031

whose name was given tous by:

M. TELLIER UNION DES INDUSTRIES TEXTILES 10 rue d'Anjou 75008 PARIS 1 - 4266111 137

MULHOUSE

1. E.N.S.I.T.M. M.C. WOLFF - M. R. SCHUTZ 11 rue Alfred Werner 68093 MULHOUSE CEDEX Tel. 89 424622

2. LYCEE PROFESSIONAL GAY LUSSAC Mme BOUCOT Principal 18 rue Gay Lussac 6810o MULHOUSE Tel. 89 453240

3. LYCEE LOUIS ARMAND M. DUFRESNE Principal 3 Boulevard des Nations 68093 MULHOUSE CEDEX Tel. 89 426788/426988

4. I.S.T.A. M.H. LOOS 6 rue de la Bourse 63100 MULHOUSE CEDEX Tet. 89 66 0265

5. CERMAT M. VIALLIER 34 rue Marc Seguin MULHOUSE CEDEX

6. C.R.T.M. M. FREYTAG 185 rue de l'IlLberg MULHOUSE CEDEX

The meeting took placeat: SYNDICAT TEXTILE 8.P. 7309 MULHOUSECEDEX Tet. 89 457811

with the participationof Mme. PUSCHMANN

145 UNITED KINGDOM West Yorkshire

1. CONFEDERATION OF BRITISH WOOL TEXTILES Mr. PAUL JAGGER Training Administrator 60 Totter Lane Bradford Tet. 0274-491241

Manchester 1. BRITISH TEXTILE EMPLOYERS' ASSOCIATION Mr. B. BRUCE Director 31 King Street West Manchester

2. BOLTON INSTITUTE OF HIGHER EDUCATION Mr. R. HALFPENNY Senior Lecturer Deane Road Bolton Tel. 020428851

3. FIELDEN HOUSE PRODUCTIVITY CENTRE Mr. JACK METCALF Tutor Mersey Road West Didsbury Manchester Tel. 0614452426

4. TEXTILE INSTITUTE Mr. DENYER 10 Blackfriars Street Manchester M3 5DR, UK Tel. 061-8348457 Telex 668297

5. UMIST THE UNIVERSITY OF MANCHESTER- INSTITUTE OF SCIENCE & TECHNOLOGY Prof. FOSTER PO Box 88 Manchester M60 1QD Tel. 0612363311

6. SHIRLEY INSTITUTE Dr. A. MACLEAN Disbury Manchester M20 8RX Tel. 0614458141

14G 139

Nottinghamshire and Leicestershire

1. LEICESTER POLYTECHNIC Dr. Bob Wheatley Principal Lecturer PO Box 143 Leicester LE19BH Tel. 0533551551

2. HINCKLEY COLLEGE OF FURTHER EDUCATION Mr. Arthur Timpson London Road Hinckley Tel. 0455631556

3. KLITRA

KNITTING AND LACK INDUSTRIES TRAININGAND RESOURCE AGENCY Mr. DAVID BIRCH 7 Gregory Boulevard Nottingham Tel. 06 02623311 140

FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY

1. DEUTSCHES WOLLFORSCHUNGSINSTITUT- DWI Prof. G. Blankenburg Veltmanplatz 9 Aachen Tel. 0049 24139921

2. INSTITUT FOR TEXTILTECHNIC DER RWTH Prof. Wolfhorst Eilfschornsteinstr. 18 Aachen Tel. 0241 805621

3. NIEDERRHEIN FACHHOCHSCHULE Dr. ninke WebscJulestr. 31 Monchengiadbach TO.. 02161 1861

4. TECHNIKER FACHSCHULE FOR TEXTILWESEN Herr. Deussen Katz der Republic 1 Monchengladbach

5. GESAMTTEXTIL Messrs. Maier ond Fries 6000 Frankfurt am Main Tel. 0611 638033

146 141

BELGIUM 1. INSTITUT SUPERIEUR INDUSTRIEL DE L'ETAT M. Fernand Tiquet Director rue de Seroule 8 4800 Verviers Tel. 087/223040-221112

2. CEFRET (COW T) M.H. De Leeuw Director General Burggraventaan 40 9000 Ghent Tel. 091/222614

3. CELAC Mr. L. Rousseau Director Avenue du Parc 69H Parc Industrie! de Petit Rechain Chaineux Tel. 087/330147

CENTEXBEL Officers: J. Stryckmann- Director General J. Grignet Verviers Division j. Knott - Verviers Division (Chemistry) N. van Lancker - Ghent Division

Head Office: 24 rue Montoyer, 1040 Bruxelles Tel. 02/2309330

Verviers Laboratory: Zoning de Petit Rechain Avenue du Parc 69H, 4655 Chaineux

Ghent Laboratory: Sint Pietersniewstraat 41, 9000Ghent CEDEFOP European Centre for the Development of Vocational Training

Exploratory study of the role and activities of 'Centres of excellence' in the textile industryin four EEC Member States

Texi lia, Istituto per la tradizione a la tecnokxgia tessile SpA

CEDEFOP Document Luxembourg: Office for Official Publications of the European Communities 1988 Ill, 147 pp. --21.0 x 29.7 cm EN, IT ISBN 92-825-8936-6 Catalogue number: HX-53438-366-EN-C Price (excluding VAT) in Luxembourg: ECU 5

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