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DECEMBER 2016 | Our 38th Year AndrewHarper.com

TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER /

SUBLIME SCENERY, ALLURING NEW HIDEAWAYS COVER PHOTOGRAPH The Eiger and the Mönch, from Kleine Scheidegg

Switzerland’s Lakes and Mountains THIS MONTH

or centuries, has cities and to concentrate on the natural A Circuit by Road and Rail striven to remain aloof from the splendor of the lakes and mountains. I After a spell on Lake Geneva, I headed to Ftroubles of the world. Today, the traveled at the start of fall, just as the Wengen, Lake Lucerne and the unspoiled Swiss often maintain, somewhat defen- cattle were beginning their seasonal Engadine valley before traveling from St. Moritz to Zermatt by the Glacier Express...... 1-7 sively, that they are not immune to the descent from the Alpine pastures. Snow continent’s problems. But stroll through remained only on the highest peaks, but  Online: Hiking, plus Matterhorn Viewpoints the tranquil and prosperous streets of in compensation, it was possible to marvel Geneva or Zurich, and it is hard to detect at the immense glaciers, which are mostly Vancouver Discoveries even a hint of disharmony. For those buried in winter. A delightful visit yielded fine new hotels, as well wearied by the onslaught of world events, as outstanding restaurants...... 8-11 Switzerland still provides a refuge.  Online: Galleries, Gardens and Microdistilleries On my recent trip, I undertook a Geneva circular journey by both car and train. n arrival in Geneva, I stood on the Find video and more photography of our trips at AndrewHarper.com/hideaway-report Even though Switzerland is a small coun- OPont du Mont-Blanc, which straddles try — slightly larger than Maryland but the green and clear water of the Rhône Andrew Harper travels anonymously and pays less than half the area of Maine — it has at its egress from the lake. From this full rate for all lodging, meals and related a long history and a rich culture, and on vantage point, I could clearly see my three travel expenses. Since the inception of an itinerary of only two weeks, it is neces- recommended quayside grand hotels: the this newsletter in 1979, the featured hotels sary to be selective. On this occasion, Beau-Rivage, Le Richemond and the Four and restaurants have been selected on a I decided to bypass most of the major Seasons Hotel des Bergues. All of them completely independent basis.

Full-service travel planning is available to members at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Junior Suite at Hôtel de la Cigogne; perch fillets meurnière with frites at Café du Centre; and lake steamer moored at the Jardin Anglais, Geneva / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

are situated on the north bank of the city, shore. I’d picked up a car at the airport, and cream, with expanses of polished with views toward the Alps. The largely and being tired after the transatlantic wood — and in consequence the room 16th-century Old Town of Geneva, on the flight, I was agreeably surprised by the was quite dark. Nonetheless, it struck other hand, was built on the south bank. efficiency of the valet parking. A doorman me immediately as peaceful and civilized A district of steep cobbled streets and literally dashed over and seized the keys; and as a place where I would be happy limestone houses, it is centered on the his affable colleague led me inside and to spend time reading or tapping away medieval Cathédrale Saint-Pierre and introduced me to the equally friendly at my laptop. A work desk stood before the adjacent Place du Bourg-de-Four. It is reception staff. First impressions really a window, from which it was possible to a place of inviting restaurants (including do matter, and on this occasion, they were gaze down into the traffic-free Place de my recommended Restaurant Les Armures entirely favorable. Longemalle with its strolling shoppers. on Rue Puits-St-Pierre), sidewalk cafés, The hotel is housed within 18th- and Clearly, the conversion of the original galleries and bookshops. 19th-century buildings, to which additions space had not been without its challenges, On previous visits to Geneva, I’d often were made in the 1980s. My Junior Suite as the bath was accessed by an unusu- thought that it would be delightful to proved to be resolutely traditional in style, ally narrow door. Inside, it was slightly stay in the Old Town, but I’d never found with a terra-cotta tile floor, oriental rugs, confined, though room had been found for anywhere that I could recommend. On this gilt-framed portraits and mirrors, a huge two sinks and a powerful walk-in rainfall occasion, I decided to try the Hôtel de la fireplace (with gas log fire) and an intri- shower. Thanks to windows overlooking Cigogne, a 52-room property located just cately carved four-poster bed. The color a central atrium, the lighting was excel- three or four minutes’ walk from the lake- scheme was subdued — mostly brown lent. I found the bath to be sufficiently comfortable; some readers, I suspect, might consider it cramped. FRANCE GERMANY The public areas at the Hôtel de la Constance Cigogne comprise a restaurant and a 0 20 40 MI ground-floor lounge where snacks are ZURICH 0 20 40 KM served. Although a pleasant place to sit with a glass of wine in front of the open SWITZERLAND LIECHTENSTEIN AUSTRIA log fire, the latter is not an ideal place BERN LUCERNE for meals, chiefly because the tables and Lucerne SPARSELS chairs are too low. But the restaurant — FRIBOURG THUN with its mahogany paneling, starched Brienzersee R LLEY Thunersee CA INTERLAKEN BRAIL VA white tablecloths and black leather

EIGER L A C I E R E X P R E S S T LAUSANNE BY GSTAAD WENGEN G R A I N JUNGFRAU banquettes — is extremely attractive. Chef S VEVEY P Geneva L ST. MORITZ S W E N G A D I N E Nicolas Pasquier enjoys a considerable I S A S R A I L S local reputation among local business- S VISP GENEVA I people for his seasonal French cuisine, W S ZERMATT and the restaurant is invariably full at Como MATTERHORN Maggiore CHAMONIX ITALY both lunch and dinner, so reservations MONT BLANC Lugano are essential.

2 HIDEAWAY REPORT DECEMBER 2016 Seating in a panorama car / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER In style and atmosphere, the Cigogne temporary home, a feeling of satisfaction is the virtual antithesis of the grand full- that was greatly enhanced by a glass of service properties that line Geneva’s white wine on my small wrought-iron north bank. Those who prefer smaller balcony overlooking the lake. hideaway hotels may find it precisely The principal restaurant at the hotel what they have been looking for. is Les Saisons, where chef Thomas Neeser has won a Michelin star for his locally sourced cuisine. Alas, it was closed at the Vevey time of my visit, the summer high season ocated 57 miles northeast of Geneva, having recently ended. Nonetheless, we LVevey is a serene lakeside town that ate extremely well in La Véranda brasse- has been home to luminaries as diverse as rie, a light-filled space with floral fabrics, The Glacier Express Charlie Chaplin, David Bowie and novelists cane chairs and floor-to-ceiling windows. Ernest Hemingway and Graham Greene. The other principal amenity of the hotel art of my trip around Switzerland was aboard one of the world’s most famous trains, the For many years, I have recommended is a Dr Burgener spa. (The original health P Glacier Express. The service began in 1930, and the Hôtel des Trois Couronnes, a histor- and beauty clinic was opened in Lausanne the narrow-gauge line between St. Moritz and ic 71-room palace property overlooking in 1955 by Dr. Marc Burgener; for the past Zermatt goes through 91 tunnels and crosses 291 the lake. While my endorsement still 21 years the business has been carried on bridges, including the 213-foot high Landwasser stands, I decided on this occasion to stay by his daughter-in-law, Pauline.) Viaduct. Long sections use a rack-and-pinion at the 50-room Grand Hôtel du Lac next The Grand Hôtel du Lac is serene and system for ascending and descending the gradi- door, which has the advantage of being gracious, with consummately professional ents. Often, the train can only proceed in spirals. actually on the lakefront promenade. staff. It is a smaller and more intimate The highest point of the trip is the 6,706-foot The front entrance of the property is property than its admirable competitor, Oberalp Pass. Although the journey is a distance a little unpromising, as it is quite close the Hôtel des Trois Couronnes. I was of less than 200 miles, it takes 8½ hours. to a busy road, but its interior, designed extremely sorry to leave. I boarded the train in St. Moritz and found my reserved First Class seat. This was wide and by Pierre-Yves Rochon, is sumptuous. comfortable, though it did not recline, and faced The check-in staff were friendly and a table that partly folded away when not in use. efficient, if a little formal. I was escorted Wengen An extremely friendly English-speaking carriage up to my Junior Suite, which was deco- rom Vevey, I headed northeast to attendant gave me a map and pointed out the rated in a restful color scheme of pale F Interlaken, a journey of 90 miles, complimentary headphones, through which it was blue, beige and white. Clean-lined, dark bypassing Fribourg and Bern. Interlaken possible to listen to a description of the principal wood furniture was complemented by a is situated on a narrow isthmus between points of interest. daybed, a pair of armchairs and a small two lakes, with the great peaks of the Today, most travelers on the Glacier Express work desk. The attractive bath featured Bernese Oberland forming a spectacular are foreign tourists, and the specially designed blue floral wallpaper, a single large sink backdrop. My recommended hotel is the carriages have glass roof panels through which to set into cream-colored marble, a huge stately 224-room Victoria-Jungfrau view the scenery. However, as the line inevitably runs along steep valleys or gorges for much of gilded mirror, a sizable soaking tub and Grand Hotel & Spa. However, I have long the way, you often can’t see the high snow peaks, a separate glass-enclosed shower stall. been in search of a hideaway in the vicin- even though many 4,000-meter (13,123-foot) Overall, I was extremely content with my ity, so on this trip I had made reservations summits, including the Jungfrau, are close to the

Lakefront Vevey; and Junior Suite, Grand Hôtel du Lac / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER route (as is the 14-mile-long Aletsch Glacier, the largest in the Alps). Probably the ideal time of year to make the trip is late spring, when the sky should be clear and the snow has not yet melted. At any season, the countryside is absurdly pretty, with idyllic Alpine villages, old wooden chalets and blue-green rivers (including the headwaters of the Rhine and the Rhône). After a glass of Prosecco, a lunch consisting of pumpkin soup, veal, polenta and haricots verts was served at my seat. This was sustaining but scarcely a gastronomic experience. In this, it was representative. The Glacier Express is spotlessly clean and very comfortable, but not overly luxu- rious. Certainly it cannot be compared to trains such as Belmond’s Royal Scotsman or the Orient Express. However, the landscape is ravishing, and gazing out of the window is a wonderfully enjoy- able way to pass a relaxing day.

DECEMBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 The Jungfrau from Kleine Scheidegg; cogwheel trains at Wengen; and the notorious north face of the Eiger from Männlichen / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER at a boutique hotel in Wengen, a village I had heard good reports of the Villa barley salad and baked nasturtium, with a eight miles to the south that is situated Honegg, located on the Bürgenstock, celery and elderflower dressing; this was at an elevation of 4,180 feet, directly a mountainside on the southern shore. followed by crispy chicken breast on a bed below the huge Jungfrau massif. Wengen Built in 1905 in the art-nouveau style, of roasted tomato slices accompanied by is a car-free resort, so you leave your the 23-room Villa Honegg is an imposing an arugula-olive salsa. The service was vehicle in a parking lot at Lauterbrunnen, building that was entirely refurbished in charm personified. from where you ride a rack railway, the 2011. At reception, I was warmly greeted The Villa Honegg’s other amenity of Wengernalpbahn, which takes just 14 by the general manager. My Junior Suite note is its spa. Facilities include an indoor minutes to make the 1,500-foot ascent. was decorated in a subdued palette of pool with a counter-current swimming The Hotel Caprice is a 20-room prop- coffee, cinnamon and cream. Aside from system and underwater music, a Finn- erty housed within a traditional wooden the king-size bed, backed by a striking ish sauna and a steam bath. Best of all, Alpine building, located just steps from woven-leather headboard, the room however, is the stunning outdoor horizon the Wengen railway station. Alas, it soon contained a white sofa set on a wide-plank pool, heated to 95 degrees year-round, became obvious that the hotel’s accom- hardwood floor, plus a small desk. A from which there are glorious panoramas modations and amenities are below the spacious white marble bath contained an of the lake and mountains. standard expected by Hideaway Report extremely large walk-in shower as well as readers. Still, my visit to Wengen was a soaking tub. The view from a tall window scarcely a waste of time. I have always was breathtaking: A steep, emerald-green Engadine Valley been fascinated by the history of the hillside, dotted with traditional wooden rom Lucerne, it is a three-hour drive Eiger and its lethal north face — once barns and chalets, descended to the lake, Fto the Engadine valley in eastern Swit- regarded as the ultimate rock-climbing while the encircling mountains extended zerland. The road passes the famous ski challenge — so one afternoon I took the southward as far as the distant jagged resorts of and Davos, crosses the Aerial Cableway up to Männlichen, a peaks of the Saint-Gotthard Massif. 7,800-foot Flüela Pass and then descends 10-minute, 3,000-foot ascent. At the top, Public areas at the hotel include to the mountain town of Susch. There, I the immense rock wall of the Eiger seems interconnected lounges furnished with turned left into the and close enough to touch. wingback leather armchairs, deep sofas, followed the River downstream as far open log fires and book-lined shelves. as Sparsels, a pretty village dominated by Perhaps the most dramatic feature of the dramatic 11th-century Castle. Lucerne the Villa Honegg is its magnificent scenic At the foot of the castle, the 18-room esuming my journey, I headed north- terrace. Hungry after the morning’s drive, Schlosshotel Chastè occupies a 500- Reast to Lucerne, 50 miles away, where I ordered a board of local dried meats and year-old farmhouse that has been owned the unspoiled medieval Old Town is situ- cheeses and sat in the sunshine, sipping by the Pazeller family for 21 generations. ated on the north bank of the Reuss. My a glass of wine and watching the ferries Converted into a hotel in 1912, it is a digni- recommended property is the Palace and the sailing boats far below. That fied stuccoed building, with stenciled Luzern, a 129-room Belle Epoque hotel. evening, the temperature having fallen decoration, a sloping wooden roof in the I also endorse the Park Hotel Vitznau, precipitously, I moved indoors for dinner traditional Alpine style and shuttered a lakefront château-resort situated a in the elegant dining room. There I enjoyed windows bedecked with boxes of pink 40-minute drive away. Recently, however, marinated char served with char caviar, and crimson geraniums. I was greeted

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT DECEMBER 2016 Detail of “The Blue Rigi, Sunrise,” by J.M.W. Turner in fluent English by the charming Gian heart of the IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau is Andrea Pazeller, who led me though a a 450-year-old house that has been in the series of atmospheric public rooms to Cadonau family for generations. It is now my Junior Suite. a gourmet retreat — the main restaurant, This proved to be a wonderful tradi- Vivanda, has one Michelin star — run by tional room with pale paneled walls, a a young husband-and-wife team, Dario four-poster bed (with thick white duvets) and Tamara Cadonau. To convert the old and a sofa in an alcove. Although a little house into a hotel, the couple sought the old-fashioned, the bath was well-lit, suffi- help of Dario’s brother, Marco, who owns a PUBLIC DOMAIN PD-1996 PUBLIC ciently spacious and contained two sinks company specializing in handmade furni- / and a shower over the tub. Tall glass doors ture. (“In lain” means “with wood” in the led out from the bedroom into a private regional language, Romansh.) Together Turner on Lake Lucerne garden, from which there was a view they added 11 new Garden Suites to the he pre-Impressionist painter J.M.W. Turner across the valley to the village of old property, making 14 accommodations made a series of visits to Switzerland, and and the austere mountains above. in all. The result is a highly imaginative T few artists have better captured the drama of Dinner was served in a cozy paneled and stylish juxtaposition of old and new. the Alpine landscape. Strangely, Turner became dining room, which was clearly patron- On arrival I was greeted by Tamara obsessed with an extremely minor peak known ized by local people as well as visitors. Cadonau, who gave me a guided tour as the Rigi, which stands on the northern shore There we enjoyed grilled entrecôte of accompanied by commentary in fluent of Lake Lucerne. He painted the 5,899-foot venison with gnocchi and pumpkin sauce, English. The first floor is taken up by mountain over 30 times, and his watercolor “The and an Engadine beef tenderloin served a spacious open-plan lounge area and Blue Rigi, Sunrise” is one of his most celebrated with duck liver, truffles and Parmentier La Stüvetta, which serves Engadine works. (There is also “The Red Rigi” and “The beignets (potato fritters). The wine list is specialties. Down a flight of stairs were Dark Rigi.”) The Victorians climbed the Rigi for the extensive and includes a large selection two dining rooms — one, a former cow panoramic view from the top, which includes the peaks of the Saint-Gotthard Massif as well as the of Swiss bottlings, which are little known shed, is now chiefly for fondue — an open Eiger and the Jungfrau. So popular was the ascent only because they are seldom exported. kitchen and a spectacular modern bar that the first cog railway in Europe opened in 1871 The sommelier did his best to dispel my overlooking the wooded river valley at to take travelers from Vitznau on the lakeshore ignorance, introducing me to Graubünden the back of the property. Our suite came to the summit, Rigi Kulm. Turner himself never Pinot Noir, a grape variety here known as with clean-lined contemporary furniture, went up the Rigi; he was interested only in its Blauburgunder. two large and stylish armchairs covered massive and brooding silhouette from below, as The Schlosshotel Chastè is almost the in burgundy-colored leather, pale wooden well as the shifting colors and light effects caused definition of a hideaway. It is distinctive, floors, wood paneling and floor-to-ceiling by changing weather patterns. For a memorable atmospheric, comfortable and enchant- glass doors. The well-appointed, ultra- day trip, I suggest that you take the steamer ing in every way. I cannot wait to return. modern bath provided two sinks set on a from Lucerne to Vitznau. There, change to the slab of gray marble, a soaking tub and a cogwheel train to Rigi Kulm in order to admire the view. Afterward, take the cogwheel train down to t is only a 40-minute drive southwest to walk-in shower. From our private terrace Rigi Kaltbad, and then the cable car to Weggis. It the village of Brail in the Upper Enga- we could see the hotel’s spring-fed swim- I is a 15-minute walk to the quayside, from where dine, where we had made reservations at ming pool, the garden sauna cabin and a you can catch another ferry back to Lucerne. another small family-owned hotel. The large stone pine hot tub.

Clockwise from left: Lake Lucerne; Villa Honegg hotel façade; Junior Suite; main lounge; and heated outdoor pool / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

DECEMBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 Right: Mountain view, Tarasp, Engadine valley / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

PICTURESQUE VILLAGES AND IDYLLIC SCENERY Discovering the Remote Lower Engadine Valley

he Engadine is a long Alpine valley in the eastern canton of Graubünden, which Tfollows the Inn River until it flows into Austria, where it joins the Danube. (In Switzerland, it is also known as the “En” in the local language, Romansh.) The Upper Engadine is relatively well-known to foreign travelers, as its major town is the fashionable ski resort of St. Moritz. The Lower Engadine, however, which runs from the town of to the Austrian border, is much more remote. Here the steep mountain landscape is dotted with tiny villages and ancient stone dwell- ings, whose inhabitants mostly speak Romansh, a descendant of the Latin spoken at the end of the Roman Empire. The bright red trains of the (RhB) connect the Upper Engadine with the Lower Engadine, running from St. Moritz as far east as . The Lower Engadine is peaceful and unspoiled, a tiny fragment of Europe where modernity has yet to intrude. Many of the houses here have painted façades or are decorated with sgraffito, in which the upper layer of Alas, it was chef Dario’s night off, and plaster has been cut away to create a design. The best examples can be seen in Vivanda was closed, so we ate instead at the villages of Guarda, and Vulpera, all three of which are within 15 miles La Stüvetta. There, feeling in the mood of the Schlosshotel Chastè. A hiking trail, the Via Engiadina, runs the whole length for something light and simple, I opted of the Engadine valley, a distance of 62 miles from Vinadi on the Austrian border for wild mushroom soup with skewers of to Maloja, 10 miles southwest of St. Moritz. quail breast, a salad with local dried meat and goat cheese, and a bowl of linguine HOTELS AT A GLANCE with black truffles. Even though IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau Hôtel de la Cigogne A92 and the Schlosshotel Chastè are sepa- LIKE The hospitable staff; the excellent restaurant; the atmospheric and convenient Old Town location. DISLIKE The rated by only 23 miles, they are so differ- lack of a proper venue for casual dining; my relatively small and slightly inconvenient bath. GOOD TO KNOW My ent from one another that you may feel recommended Restaurant les Armures is a five-minute walk away.Classic Room, $380; Junior Suite, $650; Duplex Room, $900. Place de Longmalle 17, Geneva. Tel. (41) 22-818-4040. cigogne.ch inclined to stay for a night or two in each. The Schlosshotel offers tranquility and Grand Hôtel du Lac A93 seclusion; IN LAIN fronts the fairly busy LIKE The lovely lakefront setting; the gracious accommodations; the notable spa. DISLIKE The front of the Route 27 to St. Moritz, but the rear of hotel faces a busy road. GOOD TO KNOW The waterfont promenade extends to the east as far as Villeneuve, a the property is peaceful. Both provide memorable three-hour walk away. Deluxe Room, $590; Junior Suite, $870. Rue d’Italie 1, Vevey. Tel. (41) 21-925-0606. hoteldulac-vevey.ch convenient bases from which to hike in the Swiss National Park. Villa Honegg A94 LIKE The stupendous view; the glorious restaurant terrace; the excellent cuisine; the stunning outdoor pool. DISLIKE Having to leave. GOOD TO KNOW There are numerous well-signed hiking trails nearby. Superior Lake View Zermatt Room, $700; Junior Suite Lake View, $900. Honegg, Ennetbürgen. Tel. (41) 41-618-3200. villa-honegg.ch rom St. Moritz, I had decided to take Fthe famous Glacier Express train to A94 Schlosshotel Chastè Zermatt, a daylong journey of just under LIKE Traditional Alpine atmosphere; seclusion and tranquility; hospitable owners; excellent food. DISLIKE My bath 200 miles (see sidebar on page 3). It was was a little old-fashioned and lacked a separate shower. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel makes a great base from which to explore picturesque villages such as Guarda, Ardez and Vulpera as well as the town of Scuol. Junior Suite, $220; 6:30 p.m. when I finally arrived at the Suite, $240. Sparsels, Tarasp. Tel. (41) 81-861-3060. schlosshoteltarasp.ch station in Zermatt, but there was still enough light to see the extraordinary IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau A93 fang of the Matterhorn. My recommended LIKE Inspired contemporary design; choice of fine restaurants; delightful owners; proximity to St. Moritz. DISLIKE Riffelalp Resort 2222 m, which is situ- Too close to the road from Zernez to St. Moritz. GOOD TO KNOW The nearby Swiss National Park has well-marked hiking trails. Terrace Junior Suite, $620; Garden Suite, $720. Crusch Plantaun 217, Brail. Tel. (41) 81-851-2000. inlain.ch ated above Zermatt at 7,300 feet, was temporarily closed for refurbishment, as Coeur des Alpes A90 was the Hotel Monte Rosa, my recom- LIKE Imaginative modern design; friendly owners and staff; unobstructed Matterhorn view; excellent spa facilities. mended option in the center of town. I had DISLIKE Lack of a restaurant. GOOD TO KNOW The Klein Matterhorn gondola is a five-minute walk away. Suite, therefore decided to try a family-owned $540; Loft, $780; Apartment, $1,500. Oberdorfstrasse 134, Zermatt. Tel. (41) 27-966-4080. coeurdesalpes.ch boutique property, Coeur des Alpes. A preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added to The Andrew Harper Collection. Zermatt is car-free, so I took an elec- Visit AndrewHarper.com for information on these and my 18 additional recommendations in Switzerland. Hotel tric taxi from the station. To my consider- Caprice (87) was not up to the required standard. able surprise, about five minutes later it

6 HIDEAWAY REPORT DECEMBER 2016 Left row: Junior Suite at Schlosshotel Chastè. Middle row: Wild mushroom soup with quail, and linguini with black truffles at La Stüvetta. Right row: Garden Suite at IN LAIN Hotel Cadonau / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

pulled up at the entrance to a tunnel. In able glass roof. A king-size bed was set bedroom apartments, “Sky” and “River.” order to reach the reception of the Coeur on a raised platform, while one side of The hotel does not have a restaurant, des Alpes, you first have to walk along 100 the living area, somewhat surprisingly, but the breakfast buffet is lavish. During feet of tunnel and then take an elevator, was taken up by a large metal tub and the day, snacks and wine are always the shaft of which has been bored through a single vanity. An adjacent small bath available. The principal amenity is a solid rock. Emerging, I found myself in a contained a walk-in shower and a second splendid wellness center, which offers a bright and spacious open-plan lounge, the sink. Another flight of steps led down to dramatic indoor heated pool, a hammam, centerpiece of which was a log fire with an outdoor terrace with two sun loungers caldarium, Kneipp pool, an infrared sauna a metal chimney. Through a glass door, I and an unimpeded view of the Matterhorn. and a small fitness room. could see a terrace with a large hot tub, To say that the layout was idiosyncratic The Coeur des Alpes enjoys an ideal white cabanas and, as a backdrop, the would be a considerable understatement, location close to the Klein Matterhorn north face of the Matterhorn. and the design would undoubtedly drive gondola. It is a property that will appeal to The Coeur des Alpes is owned by some people crazy. Personally, I found it those who enjoy contemporary architec- an engaging couple, Leni and Thomas extremely enjoyable, if slightly inconve- ture and design; it is not one that should be Müller-Julen, whose instinctive hospi- nient at times. In particular, I loved the considered by travelers who prefer more tality is shared by their consistently retractable roof. traditional surroundings. Ultimately, its amiable employees. After a complimen- Not all of the accommodations at the greatest merit is the warmth and friendli- tary welcome glass of Prosecco, we were Coeur des Alpes are quite so eccentric. As ness of its owners. At the end of my trip, shown to our 600-square-foot loft. This even the Large Double Rooms are quite it was an appropriate reminder that was decorated in a contemporary style small (375 square feet), I only recommend the Swiss have refined the art of hotel and had a handsome wooden floor, a suites and lofts. Some readers may also keeping, perhaps to a degree unrivaled large sofa, a dining table and a retract- be interested in the two expansive three- anywhere else in the world. H

Clockwise from left: Coeur des Alpes hotel façade; Junior Suite bedroom; Matterhorn view from our terrace; and indoor pool / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

DECEMBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 STYLISH AND COMFORTABLE HOTELS, DELICIOUS ASIAN-FUSION CUISINE Vancouver: Canada’s Spectacular City by the Sea

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View of Vancouver Harbour, Stanley Park and Grouse Mountain from our Fairmont Gold Harbour View Room / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

ur last visit to Vancouver was his loquacity, erected his tavern in what urbane front desk clerk seemed genuKeith-LynnKeiteithith-L- -LLyLnn LynnmourLyn moourr a quick one. We had little time isNORGATENorgate now the neighborhood of Gastown. inely pleased to meet us. Noticing that Oto explore this striking Pacific Vancouver appears its age, with only a our rate included anLowerLowe upgradew LLonsLonsdaleonsdalesdda on arrival, metropolis during a brief stopover after few historic enclaves. Taken individually, availability permitting, he checked the MaplewoodMaMapleMappleewowoododd Moodyvilleoooddyyyvvviilillllllee an Alaska cruise, and on this occasion, most of the buildings lack architectural room inventory and upgraded us into a determined to give the city its due, I distinction. But the city as a whole looks Junior Suite without our having to ask. booked a weeklong stay. magnificent on its peninsula, a gleaming In fact, this proved to be a proper suite, Although Vancouver now counts forest of glass and steel surrounded by with a bedroom fully separate from the

as Canada’s third-largest metropolitan water and deep-green mountains. living room and complete with a dining STANLEY PARK DR PARK STANLEY area, the pedestrian-friendlyStanley Park city is quite We received the warmest welcome table for four and a comfortable art deco- young, with a founding date of July 1, 1867, of our visit at the historic 156-room inspired seating group. The contemporary the day “Gassy Jack,” a man known for Rosewood Hotel Georgia, where the décor kept within a range of cream to brown, but framed Rothko-esque prints

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P o h A walk-in rainfall shower. S R h K t D r R o Our Junior Suite faced the Reflections: DOWNTOWN N o W GEORGIA ST Canada t y The Garden Terrace restaurant patio, but Place rr VANCOUVER e f s u B our 10th-floor location ensured that our 2 a BEACH AVE BEACH e S West End W CORDOVA ST views were chiefly of the skyline. Accom- IDWELL ST NELSON ST English Bay B W HASTINGS ST modations on the fourth floor are level DAVIE ST ROBSON ST3 W PENDER ST with the restaurant, making privacy an 1 Gastown DUNSMUIR ST issue. Request a room on the sixth floor JERVIS ST 4 Vancouver Art Gallery W GEORGIA ST or above. THURLOW ST

P COLUMBIA ST ACIFIC BLV Although the property reopened as

MAIN ST Dr. Sun the Rosewood Hotel Georgia in 2011, the 1 Rosewood Hotel Georgia HORNBY ST MacLean Park D BURRARD ST HOWE ST ABBOTT ST Yat-Sen RICHARD STSMITHE ST Hastings-HastHastingstingsng 2 Fairmont Pacific Rim BEATTY ST Classical original Hotel Georgia first accepted Chinese Strathcona Linear Park SunriseSunn ise 3 Shangri-La Hotel* RANVILLE ST Garden guests in 1927, and the current incarnation T G Yaletown 4 Wedgewood Hotel & Spa* shows off rich period details in its public BURRARD S PACIFIC BLVD *previously recommended BRIDGE Aquabus ferry spaces. Elaborate gilt molding accents the wood paneling of the double-height Westmount Park Granville Island lobby. In the 1927 Lobby Lounge, we had Grandview-a dvi w-- KitsilanoKitsilail WooWo dlandla d 8 HIDEAWAY REPORT DECEMBER 2016 Mountu PleasantPleasan

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MarpoleMMararrpolepole View of Vancouver from Granville Island; and a cheese shop on our food tour / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER eponymous “Hotel Georgia” cocktails, a as a narrow, heated lap pool and hot tub. drink which bore more than a passing With all other room categories sold resemblance to a Ramos Gin Fizz. One out, we reserved a One-Bedroom Signa- evening, I had a nightcap in the intimate ture Den suite, which, despite its 810 art deco-styled Hawksworth Cocktail Bar, square feet, still managed to feel cramped. choosing from its selection of Canadian The suite crammed in a full kitchen with whiskies (try the 12-year-old Pendleton stainless steel appliances, a living room 1910). The neighboring Hawksworth with a sofa and decorative fireplace, a Restaurant, also art deco in style, routinely study with a writing desk and daybed, a tops lists of Vancouver’s best. bedroom with a queen-size bed and televi- The spa, on the other hand, feels sion, a walk-in closet, a full-size washer thoroughly contemporary. I didn’t have and dryer, a terrace and two baths clad a treatment, but I did take advantage of in composite tile, comprising a guest bath the saltwater lap pool, illuminated from with a shower and a master with both a below by color-shifting quadrilateral large shower and a tub. Had we wanted lights. Strangely, the small men’s room to stay a couple of weeks, this suite would contained no lockers, and I couldn’t find have been a good value for the money. But any water other than that dispensed from the postmodern décor was not to my taste a drinking fountain. and the staff, while very friendly, lacked Granville Island Food Tour Quibbles like these aside, the Rose- the polish of those at the Rosewood. wood Hotel Georgia ranks among the best ne of Vancouver’s most popular attractions, urban hotels in Canada. e had better luck at the Loden Oand rightly so, is the Granville Island Public WHotel, a contemporary 77-room Market. Charming little ferries take visitors from hree blocks to the east is the less hotel centrally located on the edge of downtown across False Creek to this sibling of Texpensive L’Hermitage Hotel. This the West End, an upscale residential the more famous Pike Place Market in Seattle. It’s 60-room property in a residential tower neighborhood between downtown and easy to explore on your own, but it’s more fun (and has a more contemporary décor than Stanley Park. The hotel’s name refers to more efficient) to take a guided tour. We reserved two of 15 spots on a two-hour Vancouver Foodie the Rosewood Hotel Georgia: An immense the dark-green loden fabric, a material Tour, which included tastings at nine different red chandelier presides over the small used in various garments in Austria and vendors ranging from coffee to produce to lobby, which has unadorned wood panel- southern Germany, and it is also meant cheese. My favorites included an elegant “farmers ing and a floor of black-and-white-striped as a reference to the dark-green hue of harvest” bowl with Chioggia beet slices, roasted marble. On the fifth floor, a lounge offers the mountains facing Vancouver. corn, creamy hummus and gravlax at Edible comfortable armchairs and sofas set The small, chic lobby had two seating Canada; superlative charcuterie from Oyama around a double-sided fireplace. Guests groups facing a hearth clad in gray-and- Sausage Co., including black truffle salami and can order drinks and light snacks white-striped marble. A well-dressed and coppa sausage infused with locally brewed sake; throughout the day; a connecting space cheerful front desk clerk checked us in and an astonishingly light honey-dip doughnut houses a breakfast buffet. The patio and gave us a map of downtown, indicat- from Lee’s Donuts. Tracy, our lively guide, kept the outside offers additional seating as well ing points of interest. pace brisk but not rushed. foodietours.ca

Exterior of Rosewood Hotel Georgia; separate bedroom and living room of our Junior Suite; and indoor pool / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

DECEMBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 Albacore tuna crudo at Kissa Tanto; and green tea “opera” cake and matcha ice cream at Miku / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER We had reserved one of the suites, which are approximately double the size of the rooms and are located on the top three floors. Each has a similar décor, but our Zephyr Suite had an ideal location at the corner of the hotel, with partial views (between buildings) of the harbor from the floor-to-ceiling windows. The open-plan living/dining room felt contemporary and stylish and was accented with Asian touches. Some 1970s elements, including a brass chandelier and a starburst clock, gave the room additional warmth. Outstanding New Restaurants The bedroom had two walls of Dining in Vancouver is a consistent delight. Restaurants serve cuisine from around windows, a comfortably firm king-size the world, but the city particularly excels at Asian and Asian-fusion flavors. Local bed, a chair and an oblong writing desk seafood, as you might expect, tends to be impeccably fresh, and many restaurants that wrapped partially around a struc- have earned the Vancouver Aquarium’s “Ocean Wise” designation, indicating that tural pillar. A hallway connected to the the chef serves sustainable seafood. marble bath, which comprised a long counter with a single vanity flanked by Kissa Tanto pendant lights, a brown marble-clad One of Chinatown’s newest restaurants serves Japanese/Italian fusion cuisine. shower stall and a deep tub accented by That might sound like a recipe for disaster, but chef Joël Watanabe (of acclaimed a wall of white marble tile. Unfortunately, Bao Bei) pulls off the unlikely marriage with flair. The chic restaurant feels like an I couldn’t get the heated floor to function, “insider” choice — few concierges I spoke with knew of it, and it has a tucked-away even after receiving instructions on how location on the second floor. We started with a gorgeously composed and almost to work the controls. creamy albacore tuna crudo garnished with olives, Tokyo leeks and capers in olive We had a fine lunch at the attached oil, with a shiso vinaigrette. A square of lasagna comprised 10 sheets of al dente French restaurant, Tableau Bar Bistro, pasta layered with chanterelles, ground pork, radish greens and a miso béchamel, where the front desk clerk had made us served in a pool of basil broth. And I succumbed to the tiramisu, an ethereally light a last-minute reservation (“Just in case version made with whipped soy, tofu mascarpone and plum wine in addition to the — it’s a popular spot with locals,” she traditional espresso-soaked lady fingers. 263 East Pender Street. Tel. (778) 379-8078. informed us). The fish cakes withrouille were crunchy, and the duck breast with Miku a blueberry-mustard jus and pommes Harbor-view Miku serves Japanese cuisine with European touches. We opted to try dauphine (potato puffs) was rich and the six-course kaiseki menu and settled in to enjoy the view with flutes of Hakkaisan tender, though slightly overcooked. A sparkling nigori (unfiltered sake). Highlights included a sweet and moist sablefish room-service order from the restaurant fillet in a miso beurre blanc accompanied by kale in sesame dressing; rare filet arrived in 29 minutes, with warm, crispy mignon in a sweet soy-sesame sauce with a spicy wasabi pickle relish and quinoa French fries and a crunchy, gooey grilled with chanterelles and carrots; and a unique green tea “opera” cake with matcha ice cheese sandwich. At breakfast, however, cream. But I’ll never forget the aburi (flame-seared) sushi. Many considerMiku to it was disappointing to discover that be Vancouver’s best sushi restaurant, and I see no reason to doubt that assertion. Tableau Bar Bistro served no made-to- 70-200 Granville Street. Tel. (604) 568-3900. order dishes. Alas, we didn’t make it into the Loden Nightingale Hotel’s spa suite — which contains an Perhaps Vancouver’s most anticipated opening this year was Nightingale, helmed infrared sauna as well as a treatment by David Hawksworth of acclaimed Hawksworth Restaurant in the Rosewood Hotel room for massages and facials — despite Georgia. Although this new venture hasn’t received universal praise — one local the fact that this hotel has something of a food critic excoriated the place — we had a fantastic dinner of Mediterranean- wellness theme. Nevertheless, the quality inspired shared plates. First came vegetable dishes: a salad of heirloom tomatoes of the accommodations and the level of and creamy smoked eggplant, and a bowl of roasted purple cauliflower with spicy service are both commendable. harissa and crunchy sunflower seeds. We couldn’t resist the pizza with bacon, slow- roasted onion, light fior di latte cheese and a fennel salsa verde, all atop a perfectly ompared to the Loden Hotel and charred crust. The seafood, too, was excellent. The octopus with blistered capers Cthe Rosewood Hotel Georgia, the and fermented chili tasted earthy and tender, and the sturgeon in rich bagna càuda 367-room Fairmont Pacific Rim is a bit sauce with charred leeks was savory and flaky. Unfortunately, the restaurant can of a behemoth. In the evening, the white get a bit noisy. 1017 W. Hastings Street. Tel. (604) 695-9500. marble lobby can fill up with patrons

10 HIDEAWAY REPORT DECEMBER 2016 listening to the (rather loud) live music, vations twice.­ And at breakfast, the tubs after our bike ride, and then to curl having drinks at the bar or dining on server remembered exactly how I liked up under cashmere blankets on a daybed sushi in adjacent The RawBar restaurant. my coffee. Nor did the staff slouch outside by the fire pit. A second terrace holds Fortunately, the hotel offers an easy way the confines of the Fairmont Gold level; a large swimming pool overlooked by to escape the buzz: the Fairmont Gold one server at breakfast in the ORU restau- loungers and cabanas. “exclusive lifestyle hotel experience.” rant brought us two helpful maps after I The Fairmont Pacific Rim — the Floors 20, 21 and 22 function as a hotel mentioned our plans to circumnavigate newest of the four Fairmont properties in within a hotel, with their own front desk Stanley Park by bicycle, plus bottles of the city, including the hotel attached to the and lounge (higher floors in the build- water to take with us. And in the spa, airport — lacks the historic patina of the ing are residential). The lounge, with a staffers bustled about constantly, making Rosewood Hotel Georgia. But the Fairmont sweep of windows facing the harbor and sure that the locker rooms, lounges and Gold experience provides the traveler the green mountains beyond, is a refuge terrace were in good order. It was a delight with a tranquil, well-serviced oasis, and of calm. The wood paneling and framed to relax there in one of the terrace’s hot its harbor views are unforgettable. H black-and-white photos give the room a midcentury modern atmosphere, as do Spa terrace; and bedroom and balcony of our Gold Harbour View Room at Fairmont Pacific Rim / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER the tables with Saarinen chairs, and a curvaceous wood-and-metal staircase leading from the lounge up to floor 21. A terrace with additional seating affords panoramic harbor views. A buffet serves four food presenta- tions over the course of the day: breakfast, afternoon snacks, evening canapés and then desserts. Options such as candied salmon, local cheeses, charcuterie, beef kofta with spiced couscous, and hazelnut espresso tarts rose to the occasion, but the revolting scrambled eggs at breakfast were inexcusable. Between noon and midnight, guests can pour themselves drinks from an honor bar, which features a range of local and international wines and spirits. I particularly enjoyed the zesty Blue Mountain sparkling wine from the nearby Okanagan Valley. The smallest of our accommodations in Vancouver, our 400-square-foot Fair- mont Gold Harbour View Room neverthe- less proved exceedingly comfortable. The bedroom contained a firm king-size bed; a built-in unit comprising a writing desk, minibar, drawers and leather bench; and a long photo of a pebbly pond. A tan leather armchair and an ottoman stood Rosewood Hotel Georgia A94 next to a sliding glass door opening onto LIKE The ornate period detail in many public spaces; the polished service; the central location; the indoor pool; our our furnished balcony, from which we plush, spacious and thoughtfully designed suite. DISLIKE The lack of water views. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel is had breathtaking views of Stanley Park, within a two-minute walk of the Vancouver Art Gallery and the Bill Reid Gallery. Deluxe Room, $520; Junior Suite, $760. 801 West Georgia Street. Tel. (604) 682-5566. rosewoodhotels.com Grouse Mountain and the harbor in between. I also enjoyed the marble bath, Fairmont Pacific Rim A93 with its ample counter space, an inviting LIKE The panoramic views from our room and the Fairmont Gold lounge; the warm and professional service; the tub, a wide walk-in shower and a televi- impressive and easy-to-use in-room technology; the tranquil and exclusive lounge. DISLIKE The sometimes-loud sion set built into the well-lit mirror. Its main lobby; not receiving curbside registration as was promised with our Fairmont Gold confirmation; the pool is only of use in summer months. GOOD TO KNOW Like the Loden and L’Hermitage, the Fairmont has complimentary remote control, I can say with absolute bicycles and a house car for downtown trips; the famous Bella Gelateria is on the hotel’s ground floor. Fairmont Gold certainty, is waterproof. Harbour View Room, $850; Fairmont Gold Suite, $1,450. 1038 Canada Place. Tel. (604) 695-5300. fairmont.com Service was unfailingly friendly and preceding a rating, denotes an officially recommended hotel that will be added toThe Andrew Harper Collection. helpful. The Fairmont Gold concierge A Visit AndrewHarper.com for information on these and our other recommendations in Vancouver: Shangri-La Hotel speedily changed my restaurant reser- (94) and Wedgewood Hotel & Spa (92). L’Hermitage Hotel (87) and Loden Hotel (89) were not up to the required standard.

DECEMBER 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 11 LAST LOOK LAST WORD What’s Trending

o where’s the next new place?” is undoubt- “S edly the question that I’m asked most often. And it is a surprisingly difficult one to answer. Thirty-eight years ago, when the first issue of the Hideaway Report appeared, the world was very different. Leonid Brezhnev was still in charge of the Soviet Union. But thanks to reliable long-range jets like the Boeing 747, international travel was about to take off. For the next 20 years, there was always a new destination. A luxury resort would open in a previously obscure archi- pelago, and suddenly the Maldives, or Bora Bora, was the fashionable place to go. It was probably in Jean-Pierre Zaugg’s fork sculpture in front of the Alimentarium (food museum), Vevey / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER the late 1990s when I realized that the world was running out of novelty. By then, almost nowhere was too remote. Trekking in Bhutan? No problem. New and Noteworthy A cruise in Antarctica? But of course. It was chiefly politics that restricted our movements. No one Four Seasons London Debut traveled to Iran, even though Isfahan and Shiraz In the past 20 years, London’s center of gravity has shifted back to the east, where the were known to contain architectural wonders. And city’s history began as a Roman garrison. New luxury hotels have opened in places the same was true of Ethiopia, despite the country that would once have seemed somewhat unlikely. The latest is Four Seasons Hotel having sensational scenery, the source of the London at Ten Trinity Square. The 100-room property is housed within an impos- Blue Nile, prolific wildlife and many of the oldest ing Beaux-Arts building, the former headquarters of the Port of London Authority, a Christian churches in the world. And of course, no 10-minute walk from Tower Bridge. When it opens on January 26, it will offer three one went to Cuba. At the time of writing, it seems restaurants — one overseen by French three-star chef Anne-Sophie Pic — and an highly likely that Cuba will indeed be the new place for 2017. But then, Myanmar was the new place 18,000-square-foot spa designed to reflect London’s ancient Roman history. of 2016, and things aren’t working out quite as smoothly there as most people, myself included, New Lindblad Expeditions Cruise Ship had predicted. What’s important, I’ve come to In June, Lindblad Expeditions will launch its first ever custom-built ship, theNational realize, is that although genuinely new places are Geographic Quest. Currently under construction, the 100-passenger expedition in distinctly short supply, travel can be just as vessel has been designed to explore remote regions while providing an enhanced exciting as ever. I still spin the globe in my office level of comfort. Twenty-two of the 50 cabins have balconies. In addition to Zodiacs, and, when it stops, look down with mounting the ship will have a fleet of 24 sea kayaks. State-of-the-art expedition technology will excitement. Madagascar! I’ve always wanted to include a remotely operated underwater vehicle, plus a bow cam and hydrophone for see those lemurs. watching (and listening to) whales and dolphins. The inaugural voyage will depart on June 26 for a 13-day cruise along the coastline of British Columbia to Alaska. explora Atacama Reopens I have recently updated two of my personal travel Located 1,000 miles north of Chile’s capital, Santiago, at an elevation of 8,202 feet, guides, Asia and Central & Eastern Europe, explora Atacama was the original upscale resort in the remote desert oasis of San which feature my hotel recommendations, regional Pedro de Atacama. In October 2015, the property was badly damaged by fire. It has notebooks, touring maps and restaurants. The now been restored and will reopen in January. Set on a 42-acre estate, the resort has books are available at andrewharper.com/store/ 50 rooms, whose design takes its cue from indigenous adobe homes. Four intercon- harper-collection. nected swimming pools are complemented by sauna and steam bath facilities, plus open-air Jacuzzis. Guests hike beneath the 19,423-foot Licancabur volcano and go on mountain bike and horseback excursions. One of the driest regions on earth, the Atacama Desert has night skies of astounding clarity; explora Atacama boasts its own private stellar observatory.

The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. MEMBER: If the Post Office alerts us that your periodical publication is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. Copyright 2016 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Research Editor Adrienne Jany Photo Editor Kelly Zhu QUALITY CRAFTSMANSHIP  A DESIGN MARKETPLACE the art of luxury card-making. Real foil is hand-pressed into each card with custom Minted’s letterpress and foil-pressed cards are made engraved dies for a fl awlessly and checked by hand, resulting in the most exceptional beautiful fi nish. Available in and luxurious cards that Minted o ers. gold, silver, rose gold, glittery gold, and glittery silver. minted.com/foil-pressed-cards

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