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NSA Special Qualities Extract from: Scottish Natural Heritage (2010). The special qualities of the National Scenic Areas . SNH Commissioned Report No.374. The Special Qualities of the Nith Estuary National Scenic Area Note: Management Strategies have previously been produced for the three NSAs in Dumfries and Galloway, including the Nith Estuary Coast NSA. The Strategies contain scenic qualities which were identified through a public consultation process, and the documents were adopted in 2002 as Supplementary Guidance to the Development Plan. The special qualities given here have originated from and complement those in the Management Strategies and are presented in the new format. • A working, farmed landscape against a backdrop of hill and estuary • Criffel, a Border landmark rising above the coastal flatlands • The meeting of land, sea and sky • The tide coming in at the ‘speed of a galloping horse’ • The interplay of natural and cultural landscapes • A great diversity of habitats and wildlife • The detailed patterns of merse and estuary • A landscape of movement • A rich variety of colour, light, texture and scale • A landscape of distinctive sounds and smells • A peaceful landscape but with a long and troubled history • Landmarks, contributing to the identity of the area • The use of locally distinctive stone • The view out to the Cumbrian Fells Special Quality Further Information • A working, farmed landscape against a backdrop of hill and estuary Distinctive villages sit in a farming Although most of the land is farmed, there are significant landscape of verdant pasture, the fields commercial forestry plantations in the north west corner. bounded by dykes, hedges and ditches, ‘Merse’ is the local term for an area of flat, often marshy, and stretching over rolling hills and alluvial land adjacent to a river or estuary. coastal flats. As well as the River Nith and the estuary itself, other main Water and its influence provides the water features are the meandering channel of the Lochar focus, with the River Nith emerging into Water; the New Abbey Pow, powering the settlement’s water mill, and the waters of Loch Kindar. Associated with a vast tidal landscape of merse, this water is a wide variety of wetland habitats, including mudflats, sandflats and open water – raised bog, reed bed and saltmarsh. and all under the impressive backdrop of Criffel. The landscape presents a picturesque mosaic of water, merse, pasture, bog, woods, forests, hill and settlement. • Criffel, a Border landmark rising above the coastal flatlands Rising steeply above the surrounding Criffel is the highest point along the north Solway coast. It lowland is the heather-covered mass of provides an upland contrast of steep slopes to the surrounding expanse of lowland, and estuary. It dominates Criffel. This hill has a dramatic and most views within the NSA, and from the north Cumbrian dominant impact on the whole Nith coast looking north. It can be seen from the West Coast Estuary. It is the most southerly major mainline railway and the M74/M6 motorway. Rising up hill in Scotland and is an important above the estuary and merse it is often difficult to judge its landmark around the Solway coast. true height of 569 metres (1866ft). The view from its summit provides a great panorama of the whole Solway Firth and the lowlands of Dumfriesshire and the Stewartry of Kirkcudbright. • The meeting of land, sea and sky The expansive merse, sand and mud At low tide, there is the knowledge that the sea is out there flats mark the gradual transition from somewhere but it cannot be seen beyond the extensive sand and mudflats. land to sea. Under a vast, open sky, the constantly changing tides and weather blur the boundaries between land, sea and sky. Although the sea is a dominant influence on the landscape, its actual presence can remain unseen. However it can be sensed by the start of the large flat merse landscape; by the changing light on the Solway, varying with distant tides; by the smell of the sea and the sea breezes, and by the call of sea birds. • The tide coming in at the ‘speed of a galloping horse’ The Nith and the Inner Solway have The tidal reach covers a wide area and the speed of the often been described as having tides incoming tide can be very fast, often catching people unawares, confounded by quicksand, mud and hidden moving at the ‘speed of a galloping channels. horse’. There is rapid movement of water over a wide area, occasionally fronted by As Walter Scott said: ’He that dreams on the bed of the a tidal wave or bore. Solway, may wake up in the next world.’ This illustrates what happens to those that linger on its tidal flats. (Walter Scott 1824, Redgauntlet) • The interplay of natural and cultural landscapes The Nith Estuary contains large Naturalistic landscapes cover large parts of the NSA: the uninhabited, wilder areas clothed in granitic upland and steep heather covered slopes of Criffel; lowland raised mire at Kirkconnell Flow NNR; and the natural vegetation of hill, bog and merse. stretches of merse, mud and sand flats, for example at Caerlaverock and Carse sands. Sandwiched between these lie the inhabited, settled and working The main settlements are the traditional stone-built (with landscapes of well-established farms, some brick) villages of New Abbey, Carsethorn and traditional villages and designed Glencaple. The county town of Dumfries, immediately outside the NSA, acts as a pivot between the two halves of landscapes. The countryside here the NSA because it is located at the lowest bridging point of 2 consists of green pastures, bounded by the Nith. dykes and hedges, and parkland of copses and boundary trees. Carsethorn is a planned village, laid out originally as workers’ houses. New Abbey, now a Conservation Area, was established around the former medieval abbey. This interplay of human activity and Arbigland is a designed landscape. nature results in a landscape of great appeal. • A great diversity of habitats and wildlife The Nith estuary contains a wide variety The area contains many areas designated for their nature of natural habitats in close proximity, conservation value. including a variety of wetlands, The Nith Estuary and immediate surrounds are part of the grasslands, woodlands and upland Upper Solway Flats and Marshes SSSI/Special Protection moorland. The raised bog, saltmarsh Area/ Ramsar Site, and the Solway Firth Special Area of and estuary are internationally important. Conservation (SAC). Kirkconnel Flow, a raised mire, is designated as an SSSI and SAC. The Caerlaverock The abundance of geese, waders and National Nature Reserve is largely within the NSA. The Kirkconnell Merse RSPB reserve, the Drummains Reed other waterfowl is a key component of Beds SWT reserve, and two Local Wildlife sites, at Loch this coastal landscape, particularly in Kindar and The Loshes, lie wholly within the NSA. winter when many species make the area their home. Important and evocative birds include wintering barnacle geese (the entire Svalbard population), curlews and oystercatchers. The area contains some of the northernmost populations of natterjack toad. • The detailed patterns merse and estuary From a distance, the merse and mudflats Tidal movements have resulted in complex patterns of appear as a uniform flat mass, but closer erosion and deposition, creating a wide variety of temporary landscape features. inspection reveals numerous, creeks, pans, braided and shifting channels. Together with the tide marks, these create diverse, ever-varying patterns. • A landscape of movement There is eternal movement of river, The Nith Estuary is a dynamic environment. The initial waves and sea; of clouds scudding stillness and calm of the merse, sands and mud is balanced with the constant diurnal movement of the tides, the shifting across the sky; of flocks of seabirds and river channels and the continual accretion and deposition by skeins of geese; and of the wind coming river and tides. The open skies bring constant changes in off the sea, keeping the reeds and trees weather. The estuary attracts a flocks of migrant birds. in continual motion. In spite of this movement, the landscape comes across The movement of water dictates the timing of Haaf netting, a traditional netting technique still undertaken on the Nith. as a tranquil and peaceful rural area. • A rich variety of colour, light, texture and scale The sea and the estuary continually The visual appeal of the NSA depends on the interplay of change with the weather and tides, and colour, light, texture, form and scale. the mosaic of houses, water, woodland, This has resulted in artists coming to the area such as fields and hills results in a tapestry of William Ferguson (Junior) Haaf-net Fishers near the 3 different colours that changes with the Solway , and E A Walton Sweetheart Abbey . Turner painted season. scenes at Caerlaverock. Colours include the red soil of recently ploughed fields, the bright green of pastures and the rich greens and pinks of the merse. A wide array of textures can be found, varying from the smooth pastoral fields and expanses of merse, sand and mud, through to the rougher textures of woodland, moorland and rocky uplands, and the spiky textures of hawthorn hedges and scrub of gorse. A range of scales are also experienced. There are vast views across the Solway to the open Irish Sea and Cumbrian Fells, and medium-scale views looking up and down the Nith at Glencaple. But intimate, small-scale views are also present, such as those of the cottages in the village of New Abbey. Together, this variety of colour, light, texture and scale brings great beauty to the area, attracting both tourists and artists alike. • A landscape of distinctive sounds and smells The area is rich in evocative sensory Non-visual sensory experiences have a large part to play in experiences.
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