Sapere vedere LIVING

A tudás hatalom. Miért jó A KreAtivitás? What good is creativity? (Knowledge FiCtiON is Power) 30,000 feet high with the smut king lOgiKA a racionális jAZZ gondolkodás Hard bop in csapdája Budapest

eAtZ Thinky’s Favourite eating Joints iNDUstrY How wine can AgeNDA save 14 Ways to Leave your Sofa MAD MeN Átlátni a rOMKOCsMA cigarettafüstön Fun in ruin Bars

A CAtAlOgUe OF treNDiNess MAsqUerADiNg As DeeP thOUght • www.thiNK-MAgAZiNe.COM • 09/2010 #01

hUMANiFestO THINk, a CaTaLOGUe OF TreNdINeSS MaSQUeradING aS deep THOUGHT… BUDAPEST those to blame: Vol. I, Issue 01 eDitOriAl DireCtOr/FősZerKesZtő: Francis Pruett – [email protected] hUNgAriAN eDitOr: Wavrik Gábor– [email protected] CreAtive DireCtOr: J. Benét – [email protected]

PUblisher/KiADó: Attila Szvacsek – [email protected] eU sAles DireCtOr: Tereza Krejčiřová – [email protected] Tel: +36 306 516 150 UK MArKetiNg: Darren Halls – [email protected] Tel: +44 769 054 0796

eDitOr eMeritUs: Alexander Zaitchik

CONtribUtOrs: Alice Genes, Angus Matthews, Greta Nagy, Hilary Frink, Horváth Miklós, Joe Bodia, Lance Winslow, Laura Evans, Scott Alexander Young, Stanley Holditch, Suzanne Urpecz, and Tony Bellucci

ON the COver: Berta Molnár, Stylist: Angie Pálmai, Make- Up: Judit Mihály, Photo: Attila Szvacsek

Köszöntünk a think első számával, mely thiNK bUDAPest is published in partner - ship with Inkybrain Media Ventures Pte Ltd, budapest új, havonta megjelenő magazinja! 114 Middle Rd #01-00, Singapore 188971 and Think az Inkybrain gondozásában jelenik meg, sok lelkes kolléga közreműködő munkájának ered - Attila Szvacsek, Pécs, Kovács Béla u. 8. 7634 ményeként. Lapunk hosszú hagyományokra, egészen pontosan 14 éves múltra tekint vissza. Első, 1996 Aőszén Prágában megjelent kiadásunk óta tervezzük (melyet 2004-ben a Szingapúrban kiadott Think NYOMDA: Kvadrát 97 KFT 1118, Budapest, követett), hogy egyszer Budapesten is megjelenünk minőségi tartalmat kínáló, közösségformáló lapunkkal. Úgy Ugron Gábor u. 12 gondoljuk, ennek most jött el az ideje, és ezzel régi álmunk válik valóra. A 2010-es években egyre fontosabbá issN: 1212-13098 válik, hogy Budapest megerősítse identitását, és reméljük, hogy a Think ebben fontos szerepet fog játszani. Jó geNerAl eNqUiries: [email protected] látni, hogy sokan osztoznak lelkesedésünkben. Nem titkolt célunk, hogy elsősorban az előremutató dolgokról web: www.think-magazine.com írjunk. Negatív témák nálunk nem lesznek. A pozitív jelenségekre koncentrálunk, ezzel szeretnénk segíteni Magyarország fejlődését. Rendszeresen közlünk majd írásokat progresszív gondolkodású, ismert közéleti személyiségektől, de nem lesz hiány beszámolókból, illetve a város fejlődését pozitív irányba lendítő üzleti vál - Copyright © is held by the publishers lalkozások bemutatásából sem. Nagy hangsúlyt helyezünk a közösségi, kulturális, művészeti és non-profit témákra, where applicable. All rights reversed. Repro - de nem tévesztjük szem elől azt sem, hogy a Think Magazin elsősorban az önkifejezésről és a szórakozásról szól. duction in whole or in part requires permis - Mindenkit arra biztatunk, hogy írjon a Think -nek és írjon a Think- be, mert szeretnénk igazi városi fórummá válni! sion of the authors. Várjuk leveleiteket a [email protected] e-mail címre, szerkesszük közösen a Think -et! the FiNe PriNt: Think Magazine comes welcome to our launch issue of think, out when Think Magazine comes out (usual - ly the first Friday of the month). We follow budapest's new monthly magazine. the moon, and it’s deep mysteries. Think rought to you by our team at Inkybrain, with the support of our contributors and many others in our Magazine is an Entertainment Information community. This magazine has been many years in the making. 14 to be exact. Since our very first issue Periodical established in Prague, c. 1996 by a bwas launched in September of 1996 in Prague, (and Singapore in 2004) we have had a desire to produce team of visionaries dissatisfied with the cur - a quality, community-focussed magazine for Budapest for a long time and believe now is the perfect time to in - rent state of the free press market. Think troduce it. With the 2010s upon us, it is more important than ever that the city enhances its identity and Think Magazine is brought to you by the principles Budapest hopes to play an important part. It is pleasing that many appear to share our passion. Unashamedly of freedom; of expression, of thought, of po - Think will highlight all that is good about our slice of paradise. If you want to read the negative then you'll have to look elsewhere. We are firmly focussed on the positive, assisting in the development and growth of the na - tential and of life in all of it’s many manifest tion and mother Europa. There will be regular columns from prominent, forward thinking people in our forms and shapes. Think Magazine is community. We will highlight events, we will highlight progressive businesses that are making significant con - brought to you by all of our volunteers, sup - tributions. A strong focus will be community, cultural, artistic and not-for-profit groups, but primarily, Think is porters and advertisers who make this en - about having fun and expressing yourself. We urge all our readers to contribute to Think . We want this to be deavour possible. To them we give thanks. your vehicle to inform, so write us at [email protected] and we’ll see you on the inside!

THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe people wIll belIeve aNyTHINg If you wHIsper IT. 

logika A racionális gondolkodás csapdája aZ öNIGaZOLÁS, MINT a raCIONaLITÁS éS MOrÁL eLLeNSéGe ” . valójában nem olyan okosak, mint am - maguknak, miért is jó a kocsi: „igen, u o Y

f ilyennek mondják magukat és szép igaz, hogy elromlott már benne pár o g

n lassan elpártoltak tőlük. Ezzel szem - dolog, de hát minden kocsi elromlik i k n i ben a hívők azon csoportja, amely egyszer-egyszer, és amúgy is nagyon h T “

s feladott mindent a hitükért, szintén tágas, és jó áron vettük meg...”, elindul - o f

m látta, hogy nem lesz világvége, és ezt tak a téves gondolkodás útján. a R s i úgy értelmezték, hogy a világ meg- n n a menekült hála ennek a kis csoportnak Ugyanezen az egyetemen, az egyik o I : o t akik a hitükkel megmentették a világot. professzorom hasonlót játszott el a do - o h

P hányzással. Akkor még nem lépett Festingerék ezt az úgynevezett kog - életbe a dohányzási tilalom, és ezt ki is nitív disszonanciával magyarázták. használva úgy füstölt mint egy Ennek az a lényege, hogy néhány szi - gyárkémény, néha még óra közben is. tuációban két ellentétes gondolat 'fészkeli be magát' az ember fejébe. Ez Nem volt még idős, a kollegái el - esetben: „Én egy értelmes ember mondása szerint makacs sem volt, csak vagyok, tehát csak olyan valláshoz csat - ebben. Tagadta a dohányzás káros lakozok, ami ha azt mondja ki, hogy hatásait, és valahányszor megjelent egy vége lesz a világnak, akkor úgy is lesz.” olyan tanulmány, ami egy kicsit is a do - és „Nem lett vége a világnak.”. hányzás káros hatása ellen szólt, nem késlekedett a tantestület orrába dörgöl - Festinger szerint ez a két ellentétes ni az eredményeket. gondolat arra készteti az illetőt, hogy ezt igazolja valami olyan érvvel, ami Minél több pénzt vagy energiát fek - saját magát a lehető legjobb színben tetünk egy általunk hozott rossz tünteti fel, tehát nem rontja az önképét: döntésbe, annál jobban fogunk ra - „Azért nem lett vége a világnak, mert gaszkodni ahhoz, az önbecsülésünk én és a társaim jó hívők voltunk, és érdekében. Azok az emberek, akiket megmentettük a világot”, ez mindjárt megvesztegetnek pont így lehetnek jobban esik az egónak. vele: „Elfogadtam egy kisebb összeget, de én erkölcsös ember vagyok, de „ez Még sok ilyen összezavaró gondolat - csak egy kis összeg, megérdemeltem, párt oldunk meg hasonlóan, például: amúgy is mindenki ezt csinálja...” és „Van elég önfegyelmem ahhoz, hogy már elindult az önigazolás útján. betartsam a diétámat”, viszont „Eszek Nagy lehet a távolság a tudatunk által észlelt világ és az objektív valóság között. csokit”. Tehát, amit ebből kieszel - hetünk: „Egy csoki még nem a világ A későbbiekben LONdONBóL SZeMBeTűNő, MeNNYIre NeM vége, és amúgy sem szeretnék ennyit az egyre nagyobb BíZNak ITTHON aZ eMBerek aZ OrvOSOkBaN, szenvedni az alakom miatt, amúgy se összegek és az egyre ÁLLaMI TISZTSéGvISeLőkBeN, pOLITIkUSOk - szép az, ha valaki nagyon vékony” és így tovább. erkölcstelenebb BaN, éS SaJNOS NeM aLapTaLaNUL. döntések lépésről GreTa NaGY Amikor Angliában tanultam, már lépésre az előzőek harmadéves koromban gondolkoztam itől lesz például egy politikus működő szektába. Ennek a csoportnak azon, hogy kocsit veszek, mikor igazolásává vállnak. erkölcstelen? Eleve így indul az volt a fő 'tana', hogy az egész világ- beköltöztem Londonba. Ki is néztem „Csak” el kell Mneki a pályának, vagy útköz- nak vége lesz az adott év decem- egy bizonyos típusú autót, de mielőtt egyszer kezdeni. ben válik meg morális érzékétől? berének 21-dik napján. Természetesen megvettem volna, kikértem a tanácsát Személy szerint, nem hiszem, hogy az az igaz hívőknek semmi bajuk nem az egyik ismerősömnek, aki olyan a terv jár egy fiatal egyetemista fejében, történt volna, hiszen őket elvitte volna autóval járt. Ez rossz ötlet volt most A későbbiekben az egyre nagyobb hogy gazdag lesz bármilyen áron. Sze- egy repülő csészealj valahova az űrbe már látom. összegek és egyre erkölcstelenebb dön - rintem (bár lehet, hogy túl optimista (igen, tényleg ezt hitték!). Emiatt sok tések lépésről lépésre az előzőek vagyok) jó néhány politikus növendék hívő megtette a megfelelő intézke- Az ismerősöm ódákat zengett a igazolásává vállnak. „Csak” el kell egy- pozitív ambíciókkal kezdi pályafutását, déseket: felmondtak a munkahelyükön, kocsi megbízhatóságáról, ezzel szem - szer kezdeni. tele segíteni akarással. Akkor mégis mi eladták a házaikat, és elköltötték a ben közös barátok felvilágosítottak változik meg? Pszichológiai tanulmá- megtakarított pénzüket. róla, hogy ez egyáltalán nem így van, Az önbecsülés és önbizalom fontos nyaim során tanultam egy dologról, mert az ismerősöméknek folyamatosan dolog. Az embernek, mint szocializáló - ami sok mindent megmagyaráz. Miért Mások, akik nem mertek ennyire meggyűlik a baja a kocsival, már hó - dott állatfajnak erre szüksége van a van az, hogy ha választunk egy utat drasztikus lépéseket megtenni, csak napok óta hol ez romlik el benne, hol fennmaradáshoz. Erről az oldalról (akármilyen erkölcstelen is), nem otthon remélték, hogy így is elviszi az. Először furcsállottam, hogy miért tehát értelmesnek tűnik az elménknek tudunk róla időben letérni? őket a csészealj. Festingerék arra voltak hazudtak nekem, de aztán elgondo - ez a kis trükkje. Viszont, amit én meg - kíváncsiak, hogy mi történik, miután lkodtam a kognitív disszonancián. tanultam az, hogy figyeljem önmagamat, Körülbelül 50 évvel ezelőtt egy (remélhetőleg) nem lesz vége a világ - és egy-egy nagyobb döntésnél próbáljam amerikai szociálpszichológus, Leon nak 20-án éjfélkor. Jött az éjfél és nem Mivel viszonylag sok pénzt fektettek végiggondolni, hogy vajon tényleg jó Festinger, egy tudományos kísérlet jött a csészealj. Azok, akik nem tettek ebbe az autóba, de nem olyan volt, am - okok miatt hozom meg, vagy tartok ki részeként beilleszkedett egy akkoriban semmit, rájöttek, a csoport vezetői ilyenre számítottak, inkább kitalálták mellette?

WWW.THINk-MaGaZINe.COM THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe 

thunk what good is creativity? MIérT Jó a kreaTIvITÁS?

nd don’t get me started on what the THeY SaY THaT IN everY CreaTIve aCT THere IS THe Seed creative drive does to your mental OF deSTrUCTION. TO Make a CHaIr, YOU Need TO kILL a Ahealth. Many of the greatest Tree, TO Make aN OMeLeTTe YOU Have TO Break a FeW writers, comedians and artists have eGGS, ad NaUSeUM . BUT IS IT reaLLY aLL WOrTH IT? suffered from depression. Does depression stimulate the in- JeFFree BeNéT 27 HóNapOS tellect? It appears that de- LÁNYOM, JULCSI pression causes introspection, which then stimulates the intellect, providing us with geniuses like Jim Carrey, James Joyce and some historians even say that the dark nights of the soul (aka depression) is what helped become one of the greatest civilizations. eLéGGé „kaJÁS”. eGY Of course some of those depressed great writers and thinkers also met tragic ends. So I wouldn't advise it as a means for inspi - éve úGY GONdOLTa, ration. But the question launching this article isn’t about depression, it’s about creativity. Does creativity mean you have to HOGY aMIkOr éHeS, come up with something that’s never been thought of or created before? Or is it in finding new ways to looking at what al - NeM eLéG HaTékONY, Ha ready exists and presenting it in a new light? And what's more important, creativity or success? I think creativity, because without creativity you won't have any fun, and therefore won't get success in anything. Creativity is just more fun! Un - aZT MONdJa, HOGY „HaMI” less the lawyers get involved. (NaGYMaMÁJÁT UTÁNOZva), éS HOGY: „add Ide” (a TöBBI Just this past week, Madonna, that slag, has landed herself in US courts for a line of clothing she and her GYerekeT UTÁNOZva). 13=year old daughter Lourdes launched called ‘Material Girl’, and which seem to be selling rather well in WavrIk GÁBOr Macy’s and other upscale department stores. Well, it turns out that since 1997 a company called LA Tri - umph has been selling an identical category of clothing called, yes... ‘Material Girl’. Reading many of the comments on the internet, her defenders say she should own it because “it’s her phrase”. But it’s not. sszevonta a két kifejezést, és azóta konzekvensen csak annyit The original recipient of that moniker was none other than Marylin Monroe, given to her by com - mond: „Hamida!” A családban mindenki érti és használja is mentators in the aftermath of Diamonds Are A Girl’s Best Friend. Öezt a szót, és lányom rendre meg is kapja a kívánt kiflivagy párizsi darabot. A csemetékben nincs félelem attól, hogy egy ötletük nem bi - We live in a “cut and paste” culture enabled by technology. zonyul jónak. Életük folyamatos játék és kreativitás, így könnyebben állnak elő Anyone building a presentation knows the extraordinary eredeti ötletekkel. Picasso mondta egyszer, hogy minden gyermek művésznek freedom that the cut and paste architecture of the Inter - születik. Sokan valamiféle isteni adománynak gondolják a kreativitást, ami ilyen- net created — in a second you can find just about any olyan mértékben mindannyiunkban megvan. image you want; in another second, you can have it planted in your presentation. Reminds me of Jim Jar - A hinduk temetéskor elégetik halottjaikat, kivéve a gyerekeket, mert úgy musch poignant quote: tartják, hogy a kicsikben még száz százalékig ott van isten, ezért nekik nincs szükségük tisztítótűzre. “Nothing is original. Steal from anywhere that resonates with inspiration or fuels your imagination. Devour old Julcsi megmozgatta a körülötte levők kreativitását is. Mivel széles járomcsont- films, new films, music, books, paintings, photographs, poems, ja valamelyest ázsiai génekre utal, bőre viszont hófehér, japán hangzású neveket dreams, random conversations, architecture, bridges, street signs, találtunk ki neki. Olyanokat, mint: Mamacici Nasicumi, Kakiszagu Wakarék, Picisi - trees, clouds, bodies of water, light and shadows. Select only things ma Pukimaki. Amikor tipegni kezdett, és egy méter magasságig már mindent elért, to steal from that speak directly to your soul. If you do this, your a hangsúly szőke haja és kék szeme miatt ruszin vonásaira terelődött, így orosz nevet work (and theft) will be authentic. Authenticity is invaluable; is kapott: Julianna Lepakolszkaja Hancúrova. originality is non-existent. And don’t bother concealing your thievery - celebrate it if you feel like it. In any case, always Ahogy emlékszem, gyerekkoromban minden nap rajzoltam. Annak idején gyakorlati - remember what Jean-Luc Godard said: “It’s not where lag semmi erőfeszítésembe nem került két dimenzióban látni a háromdimenziós valóságot, you take things from - it’s where you take them to.” így elég könnyen vetettem papírra bármit. Vajon hová tűnt ez a képesség? Manapság nem kevés olyan napom van, amikor fő kreatív tevékenységem az, amikor összeállítom a reggeli One's creative potential is shriveling un - emeletes szendvicset. derneath copywritten material. In Japan, the idea of doujinshi seems to be the Persze az sem mindegy, ki milyen területen kreatív. A 80-as években volt egy haverom, kind of creativity that we are not al - F. Peti, aki autószerelőként kezdte pályáját. Minden szokatlan helyzetben görcsöt kapott, pocsék lowed to think twice about doing. I szerelő volt, el is tanácsolták az első műhelyéből. Bánatában jelentkezett a közgazdasági szakközépbe, itt remek tanuló volt, így hát believe doujinshi should be the könnyedén bejutott a közgazdasági egyetemre, ahol elit szakon is a legjobbak között végzett. Később sikeres elméleti szakember, pénzügyi boundary we hit when it comes elemző lett belőle, sok problémát oldott meg. to how far we can go when it comes to violating copy- A kreativitást sokan, sokféle képen definiálták már. Hozzám az a meghatározás áll a legközelebb, mely szerint a kreativitás az a képesség, ami- right. Creativity is what vel valami eredetit hozunk létre, olyat, ami hasznos (a fejlődést segíti) vagy örömöt okoz. give us new things to build upon, oth - Ami a hasznosságot illeti, a fejlődés a mai társadalom egyik vezérlő elve, mégis sokan úgy gondolják, hogy nem feltétlenül tesz jót a világnak. Bonyolí- er wise we’d be tja az életünket, nehéz lépést tartani vele, így növeli a stresszt és betegségeket okoz, és fokozhatja zűrzavart. A taoisták szerint káoszt okoznak azok, akik sitting around erőszakos eszközökkel igyekeznek tökéletesíteni magukat és a világot. Erőszakos eszköz az agresszív marketing? Nem tudom, de sokak szerint zseniális dolog bored and az iPhone! naked... De mi a helyzet az örömmel? A kreativitás rengeteg területen generálhat örömöt. A művészetek által okozott élményen kívül gondolhatunk kulináris élvezetekre, szexre, humorra vagy az egyéb intellektuális örömökre, mint amilyen egy elmés és nívós vita után egy koccintás (még akkor is, ha nem nekünk lett igazunk). Közvetve, vagy közvetlenül a szeretet után valószínűleg a kreativitás okozza a legtöbb örömöt a világban. Tehát külön szerencse lenne egy kreatív ember szeretete? Lehet, de ez már egy másik téma. Egy biztos, boldog a kreatív ember, amikor alkot, és az is, aki élvezi, amit teremt.

THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe „amIT Nem aKarsz magadNaK, azT Ne Tedd soHa mással.” - KoNfucIusz

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fiction 30,000 feet high with the porn king aN aLISTaIr paINe STOrY

“Fletcher had arrived on board at the last possible moment...”

aLISTaIr paINe Had BeeN ON a pLaNe FrOM BU - posed flesh. Alistair regained himself nails. “I expect you’re wondering dapeST TO LONdON WHeN He MeT BUdapeST’S and took a long, appraising look at the about the smut?” exotic creature that would be his trav - SeLF-prOFeSSed ‘kING OF THe THree WaY’, a elling companion for the next eight “Reasonable supposition” , replied pOrNOGrapHer NaMed raYMONd FLeTCHer. hours. He wore a giraffe patterned pair Alistair, who had regained his cool suf - SCOTT aLexaNder YOUNG of Versace trousers with a paisley shirt ficiently to affect worldly nonchalance. and a powder blue, silver studded, The explanation came, and it was e had been sitting waiting for dress cotton jean jacket. Tinted sun - nothing if not loquacious. To sum - his plane to take off, when glasses concealed mooncalf brown marise: Raymond Fletcher was firstly a hFletcher had arrived on board eyes. In point of fact, Raymond’s eyes photographer who had first gone to at the last possible moment and were permanently hidden behind Eastern Europe in ‘92, “on a shoot for dropped his briefcase. It had spilled shades of various hue, today they were Cosmo” . While in Budapest his agent open and so had piles of pornographic aqua blue, tomorrow magenta? Easy had contacted him and said that Pent - photos – ‘eight by ten’ glossies of as - peasy Lemon squeezy? house needed someone on the ground piring hard core ‘actresses’. Raymond in Budapest to shoot an up and com - had looked up at the shocked passen - “Now we just zip that up… stuff it in ing Hungarian porn star, (the photo- gers, the sole empty seat with his here…” Raymond was narrating his grapher assigned the job having just assigned number, the frowning stew - movements as he placed his bag in the died of a drug overdose). Porn became ardess and… Alistair, who sat there overhead compartment. Alistair Paine a staple of his work, “much more lucra - feeling idiotic, until Raymond locked wondered whether to tell the hoary old tive than fashion photography darling, eyes with his and he felt his face flush joke about an airline passenger who and certainly not as pretentious. I red and in a reflex action, abruptly masturbates over a girly magazine mean, that’s real work, especially for turned away, ‘like a blushing school - gatefold and then says to his fellow the guys, having to get it up and keep girl’, bowels turning over with passenger, ‘Mind if I smoke?’ He it up”. embarrassment. But why should Alis - thought better of it. Again, why should tair feel embarrassed? he feel embarrassed? “Raymond Trouble with the Inland Revenue in Fletcher” , said the man in the giraffe- the UK saw him relocate permanently “How fabulous”, laughed Raymond, patterned pants, extending a to Budapest a few years later, by which as he calmly collected his pile of ex - bejewelled hand with long manicured time Raymond Fletcher had discov -

THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe “THe besT TIme To plaNT a Tree Is 20 years ago. THe secoNd besT TIme Is Now.” – cHINese proverb ered the internet, and how to really Fletcher had been visiting ‘one of his make money from smut. girls’, he said, one of his former mod - els who was working the strip clubs of “There might seem to you, my dear, Canada’s West Coast. to be an inexhaustible supply of this ter - rible shit, but trust me, there’s an He planned to spend a few days in inexhaustible demand. I’m looking for London “treating my body like a new girls all the time. And no, before theme park”, and then on to Florence, you ask, I am not in the least bit aroused , “to commit a murder”. This not by the stuff I shoot. It might as well be only got Alistair’s attention, but that of farming implements for all it does for the passengers seated fore and aft. me. Besides, my own machinery stop- ped functioning as it should a few years ago, and dear God, what a relief. My for - “For connoisseurs of mer wife – I married her for her Green life such as we, who card – said it must be all the drugs I have tried every high, used to take when I was younger. If that’s the case, I wish I had taken more drugs, sex, what you drugs, earlier, and saved myself an awful will, and now find lot of bother”. them all shallow, murder is the last tatements like this came as nat - urally to Raymond Fletcher as great adventure...” spassing wind comes to a heavy cider drinker. Not long after declaring “Sweet pea, I’m joking. I’m actually his impotence Raymond was announc - just going back to Budapest to finish ing his intentions to father a son, “and work on a new website, ‘threeway dot if it’s a boy I hope he’ll be gay, and tal - com’. But I do think it must be won - ented.” A girl? “Well, stupid, street- derful to actually, you know, murder smart, vain, shallow and beautiful, I someone. suppose. But the trouble is finding the right mate. And you know, I want to And Italy, as Ms Highsmith and oth - have children when I’m still an age to ers knew only too well, provides such enjoy them”. a wonderful backdrop for a civilised Gondolkodnál? murder. Alright, you’re in London for A Think Magazin jó szokásához híven rendszeresen jelenteti ‘Dear God’, Alistair thought, though a day or two, that’ll do. meg helyi írók, grafikusok és fotósok munkáit, hogy minél he was determined not to appear átfogóbb és innnovatívabb közösségi lapot teremtsen. shocked by anything his travelling Take a walk among its throbbing Ha szeretnél hozzájárulni a Think-hez, küldj emailt a companion said. As Fletcher talked, he humanity, and imagine yourself [email protected]. Bármilyen témát studied him more closely. As he expos - choosing someone at random from szívesen látunk, szóval ha ötleted van, amit megjelentetnél tulated he waved his hand around as if the crowds in Leicester Square or a Think-ben, csak küld el... csupa fülek vagyunk! smoking an ‘air cigarette’, and indeed Convent Garden. Some pissed-up city once on terra firma he smoked contin - type weaving home after curry and uously. It occurred to Alistair that pints perhaps. Imagine following them there were actually very few people to their door, and slitting their throat. you could, in real life, describe as ‘rep - It’s a thrilling notion isn’t it?” (And Al - tilian’. That was a term for Bond istair Paine silently admitted to villains, not real people; or so he had himself that it was). thought, until meeting Raymond Fletcher. There were odd times when “For connoisseurs of life such as we, the very temperature seemed to drop who have tried every high, drugs, sex, in the man’s presence… what you will, and now find them all shallow, murder is the last great adven - Fletcher’s sallow skin was adorned ture”. by a treasure chest’s worth of solid sil - ver rings, bracelets and necklaces. By this point, Fletcher had talked al - Over a period of twenty or more years, most without interruption for three he had trained himself to conceal his hours and the effort, plainly, had ex - teeth when he smiled, and to cover hausted him. He had worked hard to them with his hand, when he laughed build to this crescendo and tem- Do you Think? his hoot-hoot-hoot of a laugh. When porarily a spent force, he abruptly fell Think Magazine is always looking for local writers, these ruses failed, a glimpse of his asleep. journalists and photographers to continue to make Think dental ranks was alarming. The inside Budapest the most innovative and comprehensive commu - of his mouth was that of a medieval Much to the Alistair Paine’s sur- nity magazine. If you would like to contribute to Think email peasant. His teeth were yellowing prise, the slumbering Raymond Fletcher [email protected]. Almost all subjects are stumps in a black morass. Raymond snored to beat the band. welcome, so if you have an idea for a story that you would like to see Think Magazine publish…we’re all ears!

WWW.THINk-MaGaZINe.COM 10

Venezuela Columbia

Ecuador

Brazil

Peru Bolivia

Argentina

thinkexpats From the Andes to the paTrICIO vIZUeTe-GONZÁLeZ HaS pLeNTY TO SMILe aBOUT...

“budapesT Is a dream, IT Is amazINg,” THe dapper ecuadorIaN mused, smIlINg. “lIberTy brIdge wITH a boTTle of wINe aNd a vIew of THe rIver... THIs Is budapesT's spIrIT. INspIraTIoN!” FraNCIS prUeTT atricio Vizuete-González is a con - The solution was to gather bananas from tent man, and for good reason. He South America and ship them trough Ro - Pis the owner of De Nuvio Casta, a mania. Prices plummeted and supplies successful development company, true. swelled, as did selection. Mandarins apples, His contentment is not restful. His life is a peaches and other fruit have since followed. gathering of resources, a constant harvest - There was more to be done. Argentina, Co - ing of trades and knowledge. A pursuit of lumbia and his native Ecuador invested in inspiration. His involvement with Hungary farm equipment and factories from Eastern and, specifically, Budapest, goes back to Europe. One need he saw and filled helped the ending years of Communism. He ar - with food security for the Latin countries. rived as a student at ELTE, the esteemed Eötvös Loránd University, continuing “Hungary has always had good preserva - studies in engineering he began in Ecua- tion techniques for food,” he said. “We never dor. “It was very competitive,” he said of his had this in my country.” They do now, and entry. “Very hard to get in.” food can sit on the shelves without going to waste. But soon, the trade game became He enjoyed his life as a student, and less engaging than it had been. He still works noted stark contrasts between Ecuador in countries across Europe when there is an and Hungary. “It was wonderful,” he said. opportunity, but his development company “Everyone was reading, children, adults, every - keeps him close to Budapest. But even if it one. I was also amazed at how they had every- did not, other factors happily do. Vizuete- thing for free, except freedom of movement.” Gonzáles fell in love with Hungary and, as is so common, a Hungarian woman. Ildikó has He completed his studies but wanted born him two sons, Martin and Renato. A more. He went to London, where things third is along the way, and he knows it is a boy, became difficult. “I tried to study but could “I continue to build my football team.” he quipped. not raise the money,” he said. He returned to Hungary and finished a Juris Doctorate, He is not yet a citizen, and is content to just as Hungary was moving into a post- be a resident. But he continues to con - communist boom. tribute, he says, and gladly. “Perhaps my life would be easier in Ecuador,” he says. “Here, “I was working with the embassy, bringing I have to work. Work, hard, work a lot. But products from one country to another,” he there is so much here I love.” As if on cue his shared. Trade was flourishing. One project wife appears and the interview comes to a he was involved in was the shipping of fruit close with a parting thought. “If there is from South America. The Hungarian fruit anything I wish I could give to the Hungari - economy was not good when he started. an people but have not been able to, it is my optimism,” he said with a sheepish grin. “You had oranges and bananas were only “Hungary has a very good future ahead.” available at Christmas,” he said. “A German port made things too expensive and supplies And that seems a fair trade, inspiration A special thanks from the Think team for inspiring us to launch an edition in Budapest! were limited.” repaid in kind. Photo: Attila Szvacsek, shot at Alexandra Books

THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe THere's a fINe lINe beTweeN cuddlINg aNd HoldINg someoNe dowN so THey caN'T geT away. 11 expat life gone in six Months keepING THe deparTUre HOrIZON aT BaY

TWO apOLOGIeS TO GO OUT: THe FIrST GOeS OUT TO MY BOSSeS/pUBLISHerS FOr NOT WrITING WHaT I WaS aSked TO WrITe, aNd INSTead TUrNING IN SOMeTHING COMpLeTeLY UNreLaTed, aNd I'M SUre, UNWaNTed. STANLEY HOLDITCH

n a city practically bursting at the for this I will dis - seams with mediocre writers, you close later. Iwould think me grateful to be pluck- ed out of the lowing herd and dutifully Anyway, set to the task laid before me, but ap - this now fully parently you (and I) have thought recognized friend takes me on wrong. If all truth be told, the task was a whirling narrative journey; I feel his slightly ambiguous to begin with: reluctance at the weighty purchase, I “Write something interesting... something share in his exhilaration in slapping And if they better us at both our about bars...” down the cash, and I wince at the sting lifestyle and our artistic endeavors? Sim - of discovering it to be incompatible “why six months? ple. Superior western disdain. Our Recognizing these instructions to with the television. It’s only when he Probably because it’s industrial strength derision sump-pump be mutually exclusive, I chose to take a tells me that it was a stupid purchase still just a little too sucks them right out and keeps our stab at the former rather than slopping anyway, because he’s leaving in six pond the way we like it; small and safe. out another of the latter. I mean really, months, that I am blasted out of my far off to buy plane After all, if any of us wanted a truly if you can’t find a good bar in this tale-spun reverie and reduced to in - tickets, but close healthy and competitive artistic environ - town then you probably shouldn’t be ward chuckles. enough to provide us ment, we’d be in Perugia or New York. in one anyway. I hear Pszichiátriai és with the illusion that Fogyatékos Betegek Otthona is taking “Of course,” I get out between snorts, The funniest part is that none of us applications. “six months.” Chuckling, because I real - we are finally getting really needs this “six months”, but if we ize that ever since I have been here, our shit together.” are addicted to the magic feather, we The second apology goes to the read - I’ve been leaving in six months. So far can take it with us anywhere in the er, if he or she exists, for robbing my six months has lasted a year-and-a- ing that the proverbial “six months” world. All one has to do is realize that all him/her of an article that possibly half, but this seems paltry compared to will be spat out at us as quickly and the time she’s imagined herself warm - could have contained some useful in - my companion, who has been here for bald-facially as we ourselves would spit ing up in the batting cage, she’s been at formation, and perhaps even helped to over four years. I wonder how long his it out. the plate. (*see how well that works?) perk up an overly humid, rain-bogged six months has lasted. existence. If this is the case, and whoev - So why six months? Probably because As long as we don’t see ourselves as er is confused enough to pick up this It occurs to me at this point that it’s still just a little too far off to buy destined for some far-off greatness, magazine oh so desperately wishes that most of us ex-patriots — and here I am plane tickets, but close enough to pro - and recognize that our palinka-blurred he (do I really have to put “or she” every excluding permanent residents and vide us with the illusion that we are poverty is a hell of a lot more real than time?*) or she could just read about a business owners — are in a sense con - finally getting our shit together. Per - these delusions, then all is peachy. cool bar in which to plop, please refer nected. I won’t call it camaraderie, haps an even better question is why Then again, I’m no one to preach, as to every other page of this magazine. which would be laughable. The jeal - we feel the need to lie to ourselves and my departure time hasn’t changed. ousies that abound in our little pool others at all? So here goes with my conclusions would make swimmers of bigger As promised, I will now explain the and observations, which I’m sure that ponds blush: more private students, Like all good questions, there is no elevation of my story-teller from ac - thousands of others have already ar - better language school, or the trump of simple answer, but like all pompous id - quaintance-friend to friend. It’s because rived at in half the time and with twice all trumps, not working for a language iots, I will give one. he told me that when he leaves in six the eloquence, but as I’ve already school! I will instead call it a mutual months time (chuckle, chuckle), he righteously dug myself into a hole, I understanding. Because the most powerful and dear won’t e-mail me, and I responded that might as well spit them out. illusion in all our lives is that this is es - I wouldn’t e-mail him either. A mutual understanding that we are sentially just practice. We all believe I’m standing around at my friend all buoyed by a life raft of falsehoods, that we can skate in and out of near He added that it wasn’t anything Ray’s party, a decidedly expatriot af - and were one of us to stick the pin in successes and complete failures with personal, but I forgave him this post - fair, with a few locals thrown in to keep someone else’s “six months”, we would impunity, that all our relationships are script. The “I’ll e-mail you” promise has the egotism down to a respectable all soon find ourselves at the bottom of not to be regarded with a serious or become just as much a pacifier to our level, and I’m about to hear Sublime the Laurentian Abyssal of reality. analytical eye, and whatever disgraces breed as the “six months”, but as any for the fourth consecutive time. It’s not we heap upon our records, whether so - baby would tell you, a pacifier ain’t no that I don’t dig that Californy sound, We, however, understand this, and cially or artistically, will be wiped tit. Anyone who has enough respect it’s just that after the third time, it’s holding our tongues, remain afloat. clean, because, what the hell, we’re for me to forgo this dishonest formali - hard to get the ‘89 vision. leaving in six months. ty, I definitely consider a friend. Furthermore, we, and apparently In the lull between the last song and only we, know what questions not to We sit in our dingy, low-rent apart - And lastly, if any of you out there the first, I half-willingly ensnared my - ask. We no longer ask why anyone ments and watch the sail find this article offensive, totally un - self in an epic tale of DVD Player came here, each of us having learned into success with disinterested eyes, true, partially untrue, or just poorly purchasing, being told by a friend-ac - what a potential Pandora’s Box this because we came here to give all that written, please write in and tell me quaintance who had just that night question can be, and we don’t ask how up, and besides, what can be done in about it, but you better do it soon. I’m upped his rank to friend. The reason long anyone is planning to stay, realiz - six months time? outta here in six months.

WWW.THINK-MAGAZINE.COM THINK BUDAPEST CITY MAGAZINE 12

venues jAZZ gArDeN 1053 BUdapeST, vereS pÁLNé UTCa 44, MaGYarOrSZÁG WWW.JaZZGardeN.HU, T: 06 1 266 7364

azz Garden had humble beginnings but big dreams. The founders of the venue sought, “a suitable spot for our club in the . The kind that us as musicians would have loved to play in.” What they found was a dank hole filled with trash. From those fetid depths was born a first-class venue. Jazz aficionados pass through an entry parlor jwith a high ceiling, and windingly descend into the basement, passing framed por - traits of performers past along the way. Jazz Garden is an acoustically and esthetically fine-tuned space. The design seems inspired by early 20th-century garden cafes in Paris, and features street lamps, cobbled floors and clamber - ing, flowered vines. One can see Josephine Baker stepping onstage here for an impromptu performance. The ceiling is a marriage of form and func - tion. Built of sound-proofing and covered with little lights, it creates the illusion of a summer night sky. At least one patron called it a perfect cure for winter drear. The quality of the music featured is unquestionably high, with even “jam session” nights drawing rave reviews. The food is tasty and, along with the drinks, reasonably priced. Expect great music, fast service and people in jeans and shorts rubbing elbows with the more formally attired. With patrons from around the world, the common language here is jazz.

websites www.MAjAZZ.hU /HTML_MaJaZZ/aNGOL/akTUaLIS.HTM

f Hungarian jazz is what you want to hear, know and love, then this site is your first stop. The Society itself was founded by a group of iprominent musicians with the help of the Ministry of Hungarian Cultural Heritage. Over the years, it has evolved from focusing on the es - tablishment of an acceptable performance venue for Budapest Society members to encompass assisting with the promotion and production of jazz concerts and festivals around the country. Hungarian jazz musi - cians from the Society who are performing internationally also get their due here. Artist's profiles, contact information and publicity photos to help you get to know the local luminaries of jazz are all on offer, as are some links to other organizations whose activities support the growth and success of the surging Hungarian jazz scene. Budapest jazz-scene literacy is a click away. T

etcetera T e S S a F ” I C C

All thAt jAZZ U M “ d I v a

GeT HIp TO THe TIp, daddY-O! d : T r a

helonius Monk once said, “I don’t know where jazz is going. Maybe it’s going to hell. You flute) and his Grencsó Open Collective to the stage with American alto saxophonist and poet can’t make anything go anywhere. It just happens.” We now know it decided it was better Lewis Jordan. The combination of the avante-garde stalwart Grencsó’s musicianship and tto go to Budapest. The city’s jazz scene is always lively, but September 8th marks the Lewis’s pseudo-rap recitation should thrill. The unusual and interesting would include the ap - start of what is unarguably among the most important festivals the city plays host to. the MOl pearance on the 11th of Germans Michael Schiefel (vocals) and Carsten Daerr (piano) with bUDAPest jAZZ FestivAl (look for programs around the city, or visit www.trafo.hu/programs locals Miklós Lukács (dulcimer) and Mátyás Szandai (double bass), who play together in the /1940 ) runs through the 12th at venues around the city, and delivers a staggering lineup of Dresch Quartet and the Lukács Miklós Quintet. If you are in the mood for jazz in a more in - stars from Hungary, jamming with the best from around the globe. This year’s program is a timate venue, and some good eating as well, you can't beat iF CAFe's jAZZFOrUM bUDAPest great example of art imitating life, mirroring the EU presidency’s succession to Hungary fol - (Ráday u. 19, +36 12 990 694). On the bill for September 9th, 10th and 11th (all shows 21:30) lowing and , respectively. the FestivAl theAtre opening on the 8th features are Thea Soti Quartet, Tamarazene and Csongrádi Gábor Quintet, respectively. The city’s rich Kálmán Oláh (piano), and his shades of flamenco jazz complemented by Spaniards Perico jazz scene remains hopping throughout the year. bUDAPest jAZZ ClUb (VIII, Múzeum utca Sambeat (saxophone) and Marc Miralta (drums), with fellow Magyars Mátyás Szandai (dou - 7, www.bjc.hu ) features a wide array of jazz styles along and classical concerts on Sundays and ble bass) and Ferenc Snétberger (guitar), and the renowned Belgian Steve Houben free entry jam sessions on Fridays & Saturdays with visiting virtuosos, there is always a high- (saxophone). The second half of the evening features the amazing Belgian trumpeter Bert caliber night of music in their club and café. tAKe  ClUb (VI, Paulay Ede u. 2, www.take5.hu ), Joris with Hungary’s excellent Modern Art Orchestra, playing the compositions from both na - a pub, offers a formidable lineup of performers but has also intentionally created a space in tions. The rest of the program is also not to be missed. Some unique experiences include which one can carry on a chat or focus on the concert. Finally, COlUMbUs shiP jAZZ ClUb collaboration by the humor-driven, vaudeville-inspired group Pulcinella () and the mas - (V, Vigadó tér, harbour 4, www.columbuspub.hu/club ), aboard Budapest’s sole permanently sively talented Dzsindzsa (Hungary) on the 9th. The 10th brings István Grencsó (sax and moored ship, hosts the Hungarian Jazz Club and guest musicians in an elegant, all-ages setting.

THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe always borrow moNey from a pessImIsT. He woN'T expecT IT bacK. “Hungarian state of mind: rapturous blues-nursing, 13 jazzed up with rhapsodic manic-depression.” - Zsuzsanna Ardó jazz hard bop in budapest JaZZ IS a LIvING LaNGUaGe, aS MaddeNINGLY rHapSOdIC aS THe

BUdapeST... ONe OF THe MOST BeaUTIFUL CITIeS IN eU - rOpe, aNd THe aNCeSTraL HOMe OF SeveraL INFLUeN - TIaL COMpOSerS. TONY BeLLUCCI ([email protected])

his legacy includes Franz Liszt, Zoltan Kodaly, ly sat with tea, and where my musical education real - and Gyorgy Ligeti, whose music was used ex - ly began. For a number of years, until Mr. Stein sold ttensively in Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyessy . I the club, I experienced some great musical situa - felt a special affinity for Bela Bartok’s music at about tions. Chico Hamilton comes to mind, but foremost the same time that my interest in jazz began. This are two artists: Woody Shaw and David Liebman. leads to the topic of my article; jazz on stage. The Shaw was simply one of the great, and in my opinion concert experience is fundamental to the enjoyment last, of the trumpet innovators. and appreciation of this, or any music. My initiation new release MILES DAVIS-THE BERLIN CON - to jazz began in early adolescence. I was raised in my I was privileged to bring my 1st girlfriend to CERT DVD from a 1969 European tour. For me, father’s nightclub, THE ROMAN ARCH, located Richard’s for the Steve Turre/Junior Cook Sextet fea - Davis’ playing that year is arguably at it’s most pow - across the street from the Atlantic Ocean in Asbury turing Shaw. Trombonist Turre has been a member erful apogee. One of my favourite recent jazz Park, New Jersey. of the Saturday Night Live Band for many years. He recordings is Ed Thigpen’s SCANTET #1. can be seen playing conch shells on the show, and I At that time bands were often booked to perform can remember him excitedly showing me these Thigpen died on February 24 this year, and had from Wednesday thru Sunday. These bookings shells at Richard’s. been living in Copenhagen since 1972. would sometimes extend for months, in order to allow the band to build a following. I often think I saw this band twice, once with David Liebman His drum work had been hailed throughout Eu - what an anomaly this is today. My father was sailing sitting in on tenor contributing a terrifying solo that rope, but he could not get arrested Stateside. I must against prevailing winds, as rock music was om - resulted in the drummer’s ride cymbal collapsing off also make mention of the superb audio quality of nipresent. the bandstand. Later, I saw Shaw perform here in recordings that originate from Scandinavia. California. Dig Shaw’s reimagining of the march from Zoltan Kodaly’s HARY JANOS SUITE on Larry Stay Beautiful... “without the sophisticated, Young’s UNITY Blue Note record. appreciative peoples of europe and Asia, jazz David Liebman’s band LOOK would be a dead art today. OUT FARM are a special mem- ory. I saw Lieb at Richard’s many so much of American music times both during and after his from every genre has tenure with Miles Davis. I wit- been thankfully preserved nessed his band’s metamorph- from television or radio osis from acoustic to electric in- struments, returning to acoustic broadcast in europe.” music toward’s the end of the band’s existence. Our music was popular, but with arrangements by musicians schooled in everything from Broadway to Lookout Farm also toured Eu - jazz. Throughout the years, these musicians con - rope extensively during this time. tributed to my musical appreciation. Liebman witnessed Coltrane perform in N.Y.C. on dozens of My uncle who immigrated from Naples, Italy, had occasions. The intensity of Lieb’s a restaurant adjoining our club. A chef working there quartet was palpable, analogous lent me a stack of Herbie Mann and John Coltrane to what Liebman himself experi - records. Mr. Mann’s music failed to reach me. enced on Coltrane’s bandstand. Coltrane’s music, however, made an impact. I did not Liebman’s music is part of that really understand it, but I FELT it. lineage, and I am grateful to have caught his fire. At some point, I met an aspiring singer named Fred Farrell who was friends with band members Without the sophisticated, ap - performing at our club. Fred lived in the same apart - preciative peoples of Europe and ment complex as my father and I, after my parent’s Asia, this music would be a dead divorce. As a result of my interest, Fred brought me art today. So much of American to RICHARD’S LOUNGE, a jazz club located in music from every genre has been Lakehurst, N.J. (the site of the Hindenburg disaster). thankfully preserved for televi - Richard Stein, the owner, was a drummer who had sion or radio broadcast in Europe. performed with Peter Nero. These documents that have Richard brought top talent down from New York been stored sometimes for City to his club. At that time, clubs would have an decades are only now being re - area for under-age non-drinkers, and Richard had a leased on DVD or CD. As an sofa section for this purpose. This is where I initial - example, I have just ordered the

WWW.THINk-MaGaZINe.COM 1

kapcsolatok Megjátszós gének és hormonok úJ TeórIa a HÁZaSSÁGOk NeHéZSéGeIrőL éS a vÁLÁS OkaIróL.

(bizonyítják ezt a növekvő számú házassági szer- ződések). Egyre több teória lát napvilágot a válás okaival kapcsolatban. Vannak, akik úgy gondolják, hogy a fő ok a városiasodás miatti elidegenedés, ami a kapcsolatokat is üresebbé és gyengébbé teszi, a mellett, hogy az együttmaradás sok esetben már nem olyan erős gazdasági kényszer.

Érdekes felfedezés az is, hogy az emancipáció egy melléktermékeként a férfi szerepekben sikeres nők tesztoszteron szintje megnő, és két erős hormon nem fér meg egy családban. Mások úgy gondolják, hogy az emberi természetnek nem sajátja az egy személyhez kötött monogámia, és a fejlett társadalmakban az egyéni szabadság növekedésével a viselkedési model- lek visszatérnek természetes állapotukhoz, az időnként partnerváltó monogámiához, illetve poli- gámiához. Sokan abban látják a fő problémát, hogy a társadalom nem nevel minket arra, hogyan legyünk jó házasok (nincs ilyen tantárgy az iskolákban, és jól működő modellt is keveset látnak a gyerekek maguk körül). Stb, stb, stb…

MegjátsZós géNeK és hOrMONOK Egy új elmélet egészíti ki a fenti teóriákat. Lényege,

Sok esetben a gyerek miatt nem lehet jó döntést hozni, két rossz közül kell választani. hogy a nők ugyan azt teszik a gyerekért (a szülésért), mint a férfiak a szexért: megjátsszák magukat. Ez a MI, vÁrOSBaN éLők SZINTe HeTeNTe HaLLUNk úJaBB vÁLÁSróL a megjátszás persze legtöbbször nem egy ördögien köZveTLeN, vaGY TÁvOLI körNYeZeTüNkBeN. SZINTe MINdeNkINek kitervelt, tudatos színészkedés, hanem a hormonok és gének által vezérelt toleráns és figyelmes vi- vaN véLeMéNYe eZZeL a TéMÁvaL kapCSOLaTBaN... szonyulás a kiszemelt partnerhez. Ezt teszi a férfival SZöveG éS FOTó: WavrIk GÁBOr azt, hogy egy átlagnál is gyengébb romantikus komédiára beüljön partnerével és nevessen, hogy he- hADZáK portokat alkotnak, és nem csak szaporodás céljából tente vegyen neki virágot, vagy, hogy már napokkal Mára kevés nép maradt ősközösség közeli állapot - élnek szexuális életet, hanem konfliktuskezelésre és előre készüljön a három hónapos évfordulóra. ban, néhány törzs az Amazonasnál, Pápua Új- szimpla örömszerzésre is használják az erotikát. Vál - Guineában, az Északi Sarkvidéken, és elszórtan tozatos, az emberhez hasonlatos szexuális életet Később a virág csak ünnepre, vagy bocsánat Afrikában. Ilyen ezer fős csoportot alkotnak Tan- élnek, így például, előfordul náluk az orális szex, vagy kérésre érkezik, és simán elfelejtődik a 7 éves házas- zániában a két millió éve nagyjából változatlan a misszionárius pozíció is, a női orgazmusnak pedig sági évforduló. Ugyan ez a hatás teszi a nőkkel, hogy életformában élő Hadzák. Gyűjtögetnek, vadásznak, néha látható jelei vannak. könnyedén mosolyogjanak partnerük férfias gusz - vándorolnak, nincs állattartás vagy növénytermesztés tustalanságain, sexisen öltözzenek fel egy egyszerű az életükben, és minimális a magántulajdon. Há- stAtisZtiKA eseményre is, vagy hogy úgy főzzék meg a lecsót, zassági szertartás sincs. Ha egy férfi és nő ugyan- Magyarországon körülbelül 45 ezer új házasságot ahogy azt párjuk szereti. A szexis öltözék később el - annál a tűznél alszanak egy ideig, párt alkotnak. kötnek egy évben, erre nagyjából 25 ezer válás jut. Ez maradozik, és egy rossz helyen hagyott büdös zokni Sokuk néhány évente partnert vált, de a váltások a válási arány (56%!) hasonló Európában és Észak- is komoly veszekedést eredményezhet. Amerikában. Ez persze a nagy átlag. Köztudott, hogy „...A nők ugyan azt teszik a vidéken kevesebb a válás, mint a nagyvárosokban, és AMiKOr A PrObléMáK KeZDőDNeK az is, hogy a mai fiatalok könnyebben válnak, mint az Az igazi probléma akkor kezdődik, amikor az gyerekért, mint a férfiak a idősebbek. Tehát a fiatalabb városi populációt nézve újszülött érkezése utáni eufória a gyerek körülbelül szexért: megjátsszák ma- a válási arány 65-70%-os, csak minden harmadik fél-egy éves korára elmúlik. Ekkorra a férfi párja iránt gukat. ez persze legtöbb- házasság marad együtt ebben a rétegben. érzett szexuális vágya már legtöbbször nem olyan ször nem tudatos színész- erős, mint régebben, és a feleség is úgy érzi, „ő leszál - Sok a kényszerből összetartott frigy, ahol vagy a lította azt, amire az anyatermészet kijelölte”, és ez kedés, hanem a hormonok gyerekek miatt, vagy anyagi okokból nem tudnak, határtalan magabiztosságot ad neki. és gének által vezérelt...” nem akarnak válni. Ez azt jelenti, hogy a városi fia- talok és középkorúak körében tízből maximum 1-2 A gének és hormonok már nem torzítják extra tole- között monogámiában élnek. A férfiak vadásznak, a házasság az, amely „normális” boldogsági szintet ranciával és figyelmességgel el a házastársak valós nők gyűjtögetnek és a csecsemőket nevelik. A nagy - nyújt. Nem csoda, hogy közülük sokan úgy gondol- természetét, ekkorra derülnek ki a valós különbségek a obb gyerekekre a táborban maradt öregasszonyok ják, hogy ugyan azon házastárssal leélni egy egész két fél személyiségében. A kérdés csak, az, hogy mek- vigyáznak. Persze a Hadzáknál is előfordul a „háza - életet nem az ember „normál állapota”. korák ezek a különbségek, mert szerencsés esetben stársi” vita, de ha ezek túl gyakoriak vagy komoly az lehetnek elfogadhatóak, de néha lehetnek meglepően elégedetlenség, szakítás lesz a vége. teóriáK nagyok. A különbségek nagy részét persze át lehet hi - A nagy többség azonban, még mindig hisz a dalni, de ehhez szükséges mindkét fél erős akarata és bONObO-K házasság intézményében (bizonyítják ezt a nyáron kitartása, és a legtöbb szakember egyet ért abban is, Az állatok közül a Bonobo (egy csimpánz faj) áll előre teljesen befoglalt házasságkötő termek), még ha hogy a házastársaknak jó problémamegoldó és kom - legközelebb genetikailag az emberhez. Poligám cso - nem is oly elszántan, mint mondjuk 100 évvel ezelőtt munikációs készségre van szükségük.

THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe „a dolgoK Nem válTozNaK, csupáN másKéNT láTjuK őKeT.” - carlos casTaNeda 1 sweet revenge just Desserts dON’T TrY aNd pLaY a pLaYer, darLING...

Communications Picking up hungarian Every English speaker should know a few handy “How sweet it was, that final toast to these terrible women...” phrases in Hungarian. Here are some ones we think THIS WaS NOT MY SCeNe. vÁCI UTCa WaS, IN FaCT, Far FrOM you should find quite handy.

THe rOMkOCSMa, Or “rUINS BarS” aNd CLUBS I FreQUeNT - • whAt is YOUr NAMe? ed. I Had JUST a COUpLe daYS LeFT IN peST, aNd IT WaS TIMe Hogy hívnak? (HODJ HEEV-nakh?) TO FINd kNICk-kNaCkS FOr THe FOLkS BaCk HOMe... JOe BOdIa • YOU Are verY PrettY. To a female: Nagyon csinos vagy. (NA-djon CHEE-nosh VADJ.) dragged my mate Aussie Dave (a giant of a man blond nodded, “Yeah! Yeah! We all go, okay?”. To a male: Jól nézel ki. (YOL NAY-zal KEY.) from Sydney) to share in the awfulness of iselecting token offerings for slack-jawed parents I give Dave the ‘Look’ and he shrugged. I smiled • Are YOU MArrieD? and begging nephews and nieces back home. back at the shark on my arm and nodded, “Let's!” To a female/male: Házas vagy? (HAA-zash VADJ?) I considered how insulting a cane with a cycle bell, whiskey flask and various attachments might be to I slow-walked every god-awful tourist restaurant • CAN i bUY YOU A DriNK? my father, when they approached… on the utca, checking menus, discussing the meals Meghívhatlak egy italra? (MEG-heev-hot-luck EDJ ee-tal-ra?) on offer while looking for the priciest place. We “Szia! Jó napot kivánok!” a little brunette said, all took pictures of everything and the girls, too. After • COMe, sit bY Me. smiling and friendly, looking straight into my eyes two hours of pointlessness, Anita sighed, annoyed. Nem ülsz mellém? (NEM uls MEL-laim?) with her baby blues. Caught off-guard, I stam - “I am so thirsty,” she said. “Maybe we should go have mered, “Uhhh…” a drink at the bar back there?” Krisztina nodded, • YOU hAve verY beAUtiFUl: eYes/liPs/legs/breAsts. looking in Aussie's eyes. “Please?” Nagyon szép a: szemed / ajkad / lábad / melled. (NA- “Oh, English!” she said. “Good afternoon!” djon SAPE A: SE-med / AYA-khad / LAA-bad / MEL-led) It was obviously their employer's. Black glass on “Good afternoon,” I said, smiling back, watching the outside, entry set back and no outside seating. • i liKe YOUr FrieND tOO. her eyes narrow as she shifted her hip a bit. She “Well, after a nice meal we will…” I said. “Can we treat To a female/male: Tetszik a barátod is. (THET-sikh A BA- tells me she’s from some village I didn’t quite catch, you ladies to a nice dinner?” I dropped the name of a ra-toed ISH) and wants to know where Szent Istvan Bazilika is pricey hotel restaurant nearby and asked them if in a very practiced tone. “We wish to see it.” they liked caviar. They nodded eagerly in agreement. • DO YOU wANNA sPeND the Night At MY PlACe? Akarsz nálam aludni? (A-khars NAA-lam A-lud-nee?) She’s shorter and more confident than her We were seated and I ordered the most expensive friend, and all curves in the right places. The other appetizers, entrees, addon sauces and garnishes from the • KeeP DOiNg it. is long, lean, blonde and green eyed, tanned per - menu. The girls we’re excited when the meal came and Folytasd! (FOY-tashd!) fectly and wielding her cigarette like a meastro’s we dove in. Before the main dish was completed, I kicked baton. Anita and Krisztina, they called themselves. Dave on the shin. • slOw DOwN. Lassíts. (LASH-sheech.) Ah yes, the infamous Budapest ‘Drink girls’. “Excuse me ladies...” I said to the smiling Anita “I need to use the toilet.” As I stood, Dave piped in “Me • CAN i see YOU AgAiN tOMMOrrOw? Their job is luring the stupid, drunk and unwary too...” I took Anita’s hand in mine and kissed it be - Találkozhatnánk holnap is? (TA-lal-KOZ-hot-nank HOLE-- tourists into bars where a few drinks will cost them fore bowing a bit and standing aside. Grabbing the nop ISH?) upwards of a thousand Euros, collected by steroid- glass of expensive red, I raised my glass. “To new friends,” addled, hostage-taking thugs at the nearest ATM. I toasted. The girls clinked glasses back, all smiles. • i reAllY lOve YOU. We were not to be such prey. Tényleg szeretlek. (TANE-leg Se-reth-lekh.) Anita looked smug as Aussie D and I excused I perused her map and played along, pretending ourselves and headed in the direction of the WC, • i’ll Never FOrget YOU. to “figure out” streets and directions. “Maybe we can neatly slipping out the lobby exit onto the street and Soha nem felejtelek el. (SHOW-ha NEM Fe-lej-te-lek EL.) go together!” she said, smiling toothily, hungrily. away into the night, leaving them to enjoy their just The script was being perfectly played out. The desserts with a taste of their own medicine...

WWW.THINk-MaGaZINe.COM THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

viNOMANiA OeNOpHILeS IN HUNGarY Have MaNY rea - SONS TO reJOICe aNd reveL THIS MONTH! FraNCIS prUeTT

eptember 8th marks the start of the 19th bUDAPest iNterNAtiONAl wiNe AND ChAMPAgNe FestivAl (www.aborfesztival.hu) at Castle (Vár, s1011 Budapest). If you are new to wine and want to learn more about wine in general and Hungarian wine history specifically, this is a great place to start. Organizers promise to deliver not only a wide selection of Hungarian wines, but have also chosen to feature Carpathian Basin vintners in general. They are keep - ing the names and national origins of invited special guests close to their vests, but divulge that several new wines will debut from abroad.

the big tAstiNg of the best Hungarian Chardonnay wines takes place from September 14th to the 28th in the wine-chapel of bOrKáPOlNA , a historical wine- cellar 5 minutes from Heroes Square. For 2 weeks you can taste and vote for nearly 30 kinds of Chardonnay. Entrance: 2500 HUF, from which 2000 HUF can be used to pur - chase any of the tasted wines (H-1071 Budapest, Damjanich u. 52 +361 343 5258, +36 30 941 2838 www.borkapolna.hu info@borkapolna .hu). Another unique option, and a favourite among trav - elers, is the FAUst wiNe CellAr in (I. Hess András tér 1-3, Tel: 36 1 8896873). Reaching the cellar, a part of the labyrinth system under the castle itself, includes a bonus: visitors will see a restored Dominican monastery and cloister from the 13th century. A number of tasting packages are available, but reservations are required (www.budapest-tourist-guide.com) or via phone. With zero-tolerance alcohol laws here in Hungary, a relaxed bus tour for a day will allow the savvy to savour more and worry less. There are numerous tours avail - able from a number of shops, clubs and travel agencies. In the realm of wine-themed event planning and tours, however, the veritable king of resources has to be wiNe - tiMe (II. Várfok u. 8, Tel: +36 17 869 161). Check their website to find regularly scheduled tours accepting reservations (www.winetime.hu), order a custom tour, or “Discover the world of wine, sunshine, even organize a wine-soaked hen or stag party. If you are looking to socialize, they offer a wine club along with special one-off events and dinners. beaches and fun, it’s just a click away!” Also returning will be the Maltese Charity Order of Hungary’s wine auction, this year benefitting the victims of the particularly devastating weather 2010 saw. If you had planned to take in the concurrent Jazz Festival (see our article on page 12), then fret not. Jazz is scheduled at the castle, and careful planning will allow connoisseurs to keep GrooveTravelers.com the music flowing with the wine. If you miss the festival or simply want more tastings, then it is practically a requirement that you visit the preeminent experts at the bU - DAPest wiNe sOCietY (I. Batthyány u. 59). Check in on Saturdays (Tel: 06 1 2120262) for occasional free samples at their tastings, which are scheduled to resume this month. Their Hungarian catalogue is exhaustive, to be sure. However, their international offer - ings also impress in breadth and quality whether one is a local seeking something adventurous or a traveler in search of the familiar to balm a bit of homesickness. Their website (www.bortarsasag.hu) features online ordering and delivery within the Euro - pean Union with the very welcome added touch of a gift service.

Visitors in the wine business from abroad may also find their Business-to-Busi - ness services of interest as well. But Wine Time is not the only player in this field. Longer tours of wine country are on offer at sPeCiAl tOUrs (III, Orlo utca 26, ph 1 242-6558). Their tours, lasting as long as 8 days, integrate stops at wineries and cellars with educational programming and Hungarian cultural site visits. More a travel agency than a wine tour company, they nonetheless seem to have special - ized in the genre to great effect. Reservations can be made via phone or on their web site (www.specialtours.hu). The latter method allows one to choose the type of room and any other special arrangements to be made, such as vegetarian meals and bicycle rentals or extra nights in Budapest and transportation to and from the airport for international visitors. Egészségédre! 19

industry CAN wiNe sAve hUNgArY? NeW CONTraCTS WITH aMerICaN MeGaSTOreS HINT aT BeTTer daYS aHead... n o In 1989 when the Communism re- s y T

: gime finally collapsed, Hungary was n o i t

a able to modernize its infrastructure and r t s u l methods, and attract needed investment l I for its wine regions. Most notably in DIY Tokaj, where the world famous dessert Making hungarian red wine, Tokaji Aszu is produced. wine at home Prominent investors like British wine It does not matter if a person lives in the authority Hugh Johnson helped formed countryside or not for producing home - the Royal Tokaji Wine Company, Jean- made Hungarian red wine. Anyone who is Michel Arcaute of Chateau Clinet in interested in making wine at home can Bordeaux found Chateau Pajzos, and adopt the Hungarian process of wine mak - Spain’s most famous wine estate, Vegas ing and obtain the Tokay wine. Choose the Sicilia established Oremus. grapes that are harvested in November and wait until they shrivel. You know they These companies brought tremen - are shriveled when they look like raisins, dous growth into the region even but not that small. The grapes need to be prompting what’s being dubbed as the picked individually and shriveled in a “Tokaji renaissance.” If Tokaj is any bucket. Save carefully all the clean grapes. model, the country’s wines can be ex - They need to be pressed into a paste. pected to undergo a major revolution in Press the clean grapes, save all the liquid which Hungary’s future for producing and add yeast in order for the fermenta - wines is vast. But before this can happen, tion to begin. Let the paste and the fer - Hungary must overcome several obsta - mented wine age separately for at least cles. Over forty years of Communist rule five years. After that, you need to mix which favoured quantity over quality has them together. If the resulted wine is not left the country’s wine industry in so sweet, aging for a longer period of shambles. Hungarian wine makers are time might resolve this. — Alice Genes struggling to recover from the destruc - tion of the past while coping with the changing developments into the future. Tokaji - A Sweet Wine Noble rot and furmint There is also a significant lack of mar - Noble rot did not have a part in making keting and promotional initiatives tojaki until the mid-1600s. The legends especially at tapping into more wealthy about grapes and noble rot in this area all nations. In North American, most peo - Many of the world’s wines don’t hold a candle to the Hungarian varieties... have to do with the Turks attacking, caus - ple are not aware of Hungarian wines WITH THe vaLUe OF THe FOrINT pLUNGING, IN - ing a delay in harvesting the grapes. Dur - with Tokaji being the exception. The ing the delay, the grapes developed noble CreaSING deBT IN THe BILLIONS aNd FaILed Ne - other regions, though still producing rot, or had the fungus botrytis cinerea GOTIaTIONS WITH THe INTerNaTIONaL MONeTarY good quality wines, are little known out - grow on them. The resulting grape, called side of Hungary - testimony to the aszu in Hungry, has a high concentration FUNd, IT SeeMS THaT HUNGarY IS ON THe verGe claims that the country's wines are OF a Greek-STYLe FINaNCIaL CrISIS. of sugars. Only four types of grapes can being under sold. be used to make to Tokaji: yellow muscat, SUZaNNe UrpeCZ oremus, furmint and harslevelu. Furmint o what is a small landlocked coun - mining which are subject to commodity Hungary produces an average of 3.5 grapes are the most frequently used grape try with a population of just over price fluctuations. This is particularly million hectoliters (about 92 million gal - used in tokaji wines There are several rea - s10.5 million people suppose to significant for rural communities like lons) of wine each year but only about sons why furmint grapes work well with do? Surely, there is no easy answer but those in Hungary which make up the 20 percent of that wine is exported, noble rot. First, as furmint grapes become there is something that Hungary can do majority of the country. mostly to other European countries. ripe, their skins become thinner, allowing to boast its livelihood which involves pro - This is truly unfortunate as so much can evaporation that leads to a higher sugar ducing one of the world’s oldest goods. Hungary’s wine culture dates back be achieved in Hungary’s wine industry content. Then these grapes grow a second more than 2,000 years and is accredited with proper leadership and direction. skin that prevents the grape from rotting. Many industry experts believe that with being one of the first countries to Furmint grapes stay on the vine until they Hungary could be poised to become a implement standards for winemaking. Wine isn’t Hungary’s only prospect develop noble rot, further concentrating major contender on the international for obtaining economic growth and sta - their sugars. Conditions that enable the market for wines. This could prove to be Today, there are 22 geographically bility. However, it can lead the way creation of aszu grapes do not happen a very valuable asset to Hungary’s over - distinct wine regions across the country, towards what for centuries this nation frequently, with roughly 3 vintages every all economy. In many instances, wine which include both indigenous and in - has been seeking – the ability to be in - 10 years. Not only is the area where the has helped support a country's growing ternational grapes varieties. More than dependent and self-sufficient. There is a grapes for these wines limited, the economy such as in South Africa where 60 percent of total wine production is lot of potential here but it’s up to Hun - weather conditions must be right. This it has boosted the national GDP and white, although red wines are growing gary to seize it. makes aszu wines rare. This is not to say created a steady stream of employment. more popular and their production is that the grapes that are not aszu go to It can also provide diversification, by increasing. Hungary’s diverse climate as SuzanneUrpeczisafreelancewriterwithabackground waste. They are used to make other kinds making a country less reliant on tradi - well as its location makes it an ideal in culinary arts. She is the creator and editor of “The HungarianGirl”,awebsiteaboutCentralandEastern of wines. — Laura Evans tional bases, such as agriculture or place for winemaking. Europeantravel,food,andwine.

WWW.THINk-MaGaZINe.COM THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe 20 HIT LIST Amy’s New line Being that Amy Winehouse has a style all her own, will she be able to convince the world to purchase her clothes? She’s hooked up with British Sportswear Designer Fred

Perry to create a 17 piece clothing k e s c

and accessory collection. Winehouse, a v z who is currently working on her S a l i t t

third album, told reporters “We’ve A : o been working on it for a while and it’s t o h great to see it finally come to fruition.” P hUNOr CitY biKe

You can expect clothing such as polo shirts, The only thing cooler than riding around town on a bike, is riding around jackets, capri pants, and dresses from this town on a bike made in the country you live in. This is all good and well for a “punk inspired edge” line. The company's person living in China, where most affordable bikes are (poorly) made these managing director John Flynn added, “We days, so imagine my surprise when I popped into Obi’s looking for some have had a great relationship with wheels and found this gem. Called the hUNOr CitY biKe , named in honour of Amy over the years as she has been one of the founding Huns, this bike is a real head turner at the traffic stops. a loyal fan and supporter. Amy’s With a 26” wheel size, the affordable price of 28,000 HUF and a low centre of sense of style and attitude to gravity, it’s a great way to see the outlying areas of the city, and it comes music and fashion pervades with a back rack and front and rear lights with generator standard, not to through this collaboration. mention a zinggy bell. From what I can tell, it only comes in hot red or cool We hope her fans and our silver, as they don’t seem to have a website for the manufacturer, in typically fans will feel the same way.” Hungarian understatement. If you’ve gotta get around town and can’t stand metro controllers or dishonest taxi’s, biking is the only way to go! — j beNet

BOUTIQUe HOTeLS wOrK sPACes escape to budapest whether a visitor or a resident, every now and then you just need to get out of your house and enjoy the good life...

Everyone needs and escape, and staying in a boutique hotel offers cus - tomers the chance to spend the night in a place with its own unique charac - ter and the best levels of service, often so good that you don’t even have to travel to another city to enjoy it. One such lovely place here in Budapest is located on Karoly Kamermayer, a very old square in the historical downtown, named after the first mayor of Budapest.

The building has a lot of character, being built in 1892, and there are a total of just 15 rooms, making them the perfect escape for lovebirds and those hosting illicit liaisons . The Gerlóczy rooms have a historical feel with luxurious accommodation, being newly renovated, be sure to request a Business room with a clawfoot tub for maximum enjoyment. When not enjoying the Loffice workspace comforts of very nicely furnished rooms, you can play the Budapester down - Better than a cafe or bar! stairs at the Gerloczy Café, a very popular meeting place among people of Let’s face it, running a busi - Budapest, so if you're looking to spend a weekend away from work, or just ness is expensive, and one of the want to take time out and see somewhere else and relax, then a stay at the greatest expenses if the rent on Gerlóczy Hotel might be just what you need, and at 80 Euros a night, you don’t have to bust the bank to enjoy your escape. office space. And what good is it really, unless you’re using it 24 — 1052 Budapest, V. Gerlóczy u. 1, T: (36) (1) 501-4000, F: (36) (1) 501-400, hours a day? Well, now there’s an email: [email protected], Reservation: [email protected], www.gerloczy.hu alternative; Loffice, a flexible office space for entrepreneurs, free- Budaside lancers, and assorted corporate Tunnel Tours types who want to work without Escape the heat or rain underground! worrying about the overhead. Built in a stylish loft in the heart of Bu - A labyrinth of caves and tunnels span dapest, this green workspace is for miles under Castle Hill, about two hun - cycle friendly and alternative en - dred known caves and you can visit four of ergy powered, and with pocket the most extensive and spectacular ones. friendly prices starting at around Formed by thermal actions and many cen - 700 forints per hour, you and co- turies of human activity, (most recently workers can network with other used as an air-raid shelter during World professionals, hold business meet- War II, with room for thens of thousands ings and client presentations, of people!). lAbYriNth OF bUDA CAstle there’s even enough space to hold (Budavári Labirintus, I District: Úri utca 9, an exhibition! Prices include WiFi, www.labirintus.com ) is our favourite, coffee and printing services, mak- stretching for over six very humid miles ing it a great alternative to working beneath the streets and buildings of the out of your home office or present - ancient Castle District of Buda. The aged ing in some smoky cafe or bar. walls and arches really are something amazing to behold. — www.loffice.hu

THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe crowded elevaTors smell dIffereNT To mIdgeTs. tűzraktér From little acorns big oak trees grow... Tűzraktér Independent Cultural Centre (backed up by the Art Sector Foundation) first opened its doors way back in of June in 2005, giving new life to a previously abandoned 10,000 square meter factory building in Budapest's Tuzolto street. As an open cultural space, they organize programmes on a daily basis, a programme which includes a very wide spectrum of fine and performed arts. Fleurt- virágbolt, mely fiesta They also work as a creative centre by providing opportunities to as many creative projects as they can. Musicians and theatre companies use the a szemnek space for reversals ; artists can create studios in the building to explore their Ha BeLépüNk a FLeUrT vIrÁGBOLT BaZILIka visions, secure that the management is constantly trying to keep these op - portunities free, or as cheap as possible, like their entry fees. Due to these köZeLI üZLeTéBe, aZT LÁTHaTJUk, HOGY MIN - two main functions, the Cultural Centre is a place where cultural products deNrőL „SüT” a MINőSéG. IGéNYeS a BOLT are not only shown, but created. But it’s not just art for art’s sake, they are BeLSő kIaLakíTÁSa, GYöNYörűek a vIrÁGOk, also active in the field of education, mostly art laboratories where artists HeLYBeN vaNNak a prOFI vIrÁGköTők, akIk eGY - can educate children, and adults as well. One of their goals is to create pro - BeN kedveSeN éS HaTékONYaN SZOLGÁLNak kI. grammes and activities for youth with a less-privileged background. SZöveG éS FOTó: WavrIk GÁBOr Thanks to its great publicity, Tűzraktér became a meeting point of young vállalkozást 7 évvel ezelőtt alapította két sikeres közgazdász, azzal a céllal, people and a scene for contemporary experimental arts. The pieces of art hogy kreatív tehetségüket is megmozgassák egy szívükhöz közel álló üzleti or the performances organized by their teams have received great atten - Avállalkozással. Az ötlet az volt, hogy olyan enteriőrbe illeszkedő minimalista tion from the general public. All organizers work as volunteers, and have virágdekorációkat áruljanak, amelyek még nem nagyon voltak akkoriban a magyar managed to have exhibitions of hundreds of artists, including collabora - piacon. Miután egyikük kiszállt az üzletből más elfoglaltságai miatt, Józsa Judit vitte tions with the Hungarian Academy of Arts, theatre shows, contemporary tovább a boltot. Tehetségének és kitartásának köszönhetően (amihez hozzájárult dance performances, concerts from jazz, world music, to blues and punk, lakberendező végzettsége és közgazdasági tapasztalata is) a cég mára egy 100 mil - liós éves árbevételű, 9 fős csapatot foglalkoztató vállalkozássá nőtte ki magát. musicians from all over the world, circus shows, artistic performances, liter - Szerteágazó tevékenységük mutatja, hogy milyen rugalmasan reagálnak a piaci ature evenings, academic presentations, festivals, fashion shows, etc. igényekre. A klasszikus virágbolton és webes virágküldő szolgálaton kívül fog- lalkoznak iroda, rendezvény, lakás, esküvői és szálloda — dekorációval is. (Olyan Hosting artists from around the world as well, they promote cross-cultur - hotelekkel állnak például partneri kapcsolatban, mint az Intercontinental, New al exchanges and exhibitions. And unlike many artspaces, Tűzraktér also York Palace, Kempinski, Le Meridien, Marriott). 2007-ben elnyerték kisbolt kate- hosts a baby-mummy room for artists with children. The project was most - góriában az „Arany Virág” díjat. A minőség náluk nem feltétlenül jelent drága ly for young people but it welcomed people of any age. Children, women, termékeket, mindenki megtalálhatja a neki való árfekvést. Weboldalukon fotókkal illusztrálják az egyes megrendelhető csokrokat jól látható árcédulákkal. people with a less privileged background, minorities and any kind of dis - Külön tetszett, hogy az egyes csokrok kategóriákba vannak rendezve, mint: „Bocsá- ability, immigrants were all involved. natot kérek!”, „Szeretlek”, „Részvétem”, stb... és a bokréta céljának meg felelően vannak kialakítva az egyes kategóriákban az alkotások. Tűzraktér is not a building, but an intention, one that can affiliate parallel projects, and cooperate with different kinds of initiatives in Hungary as well Woof! as on the international scene. From 2008, cooperating with the local govern - Budadogs ment of the 6th district of Budapest, they were given the right to occupy an - Rescue dogs need foster homes! other disused building (Hegedű utca 3, 1061 Budapest, Hungary). At the If you love animals, three vet students from Nor - moment, in the Art lab part of Tűzraktér, they provide offices or workshops way have set up a project called bUDADOgs where for more than 350 persons, mostly artists, but including civil organisations too. they rescue dogs from the city pound on the eu - thanasia list (illatosut.hu) and other dogs who des - The Art laboratory is functioning every day, a real community with dif - perately need help, find foster homes for them and eventually re-home them abroad (mostly to ferent people, groups, civil organizations who collaborate with each other Scandinavia). These dogs are healthy and make and become part of the life of the center. The users of the center help in perfect family pets with a bit of love and kindness. improving it, and they make a lot of cultural programmes at the place. The more foster homes they find, the more dogs They must be active but also the organiser group of the center is helping which can be rescued, so please check out the them with their universal needs, problems and projects. The users support Budadogs site, and let them know if you can host or even adopt! the center with the overhead of the center. — http://bricksite.com/budadogs, www.budadogs.blogspot.com This way the Art lab is self-supporting and hopefully with other supports it can be a long life system, proving that great things grow from little seeds.

WWW.THINk-MaGaZINe.COM 22 MedIa JUNkY FILM A TETOVÁLT LÁNY (dán-svéd-német krimi, 152 perc)

Az utóbbi fél év talán egyik legjobb filmje. Nagyon izgalmas, jól megírt krimi, úgyhogy a történetről hiba is lenne bármit elárulni, a legjobb úgy beülni erre a mozira, ha semmit nem tudunk a cselekményről.

A dán rendezőnek, Niels Arden COllAPse, the MOvie Oplernek ez az első nemzetközi nagyközönség előtt komoly mar - From the acclaimed director of American Movie , comes ketinggel bemutatott filmje, bár this portrait of radical thinker Michael Ruppert, a former egy korábbi filmjével már berlini borús képek, Skandináviát formai kelléktára után. Az utóbbi egészen új szemszögből láttatják. időszak hollywoodi filmtermése Lost Angeles police officer turned independent reporter, filmfesztivál díjas volt. Az 50 éves svéd Michael Nyqvist remekül tele van nagyon gyenge forgató- (who predicted the current financial crisis in his self-pub - alakítja a férfi főszerepelőt, a Végre egy krimi, ahol nem a túl könyvekkel (hiába kiváló az ope- lished newsletter, From the Wilderness, at a time when gyönyörű Naomi Rapace, pedig sűrű snittváltásokkal, túlpörgetett ratőri, színészi munka, vagy a most Wall Street and Washington analysts were still in autentikusan játssza az „agyon - irreális cselekménnyel és idegesítő speciális effekt), ami lehet, hogy denial). Sitting in a room that looks like a bunker, Rup - varrt” és piercingelt lányt, ami hangeffektekkel próbálják a fe- annak köszönhető, hogy amikor szültséget növelni, hanem maga a mostani filmek születtek, akko - pert recalls his career as a radical thinker and shares his nem véletlen, ugyanis fiatalko - rában punk volt. a cselekmény olyan izgalmas, riban sztrájkoltak az amerikai for - visions of the crises humanity is facing. Drawing from hogy leköt. Így a 152 perc úgy gatókönyvírók. the same news reports and data available to anybody A film forgatókönyvét a svéd múlik el, mintha másfél óra lenne. with an Internet connection, and is especially passionate Stieg Larsson 1.5 millió példány - A történetvezetés viszonylagos Eddig minden ismerősömnek about the issue of “peak oil,” a concern raised by scien - ban eladott bestselleréből írta két lassúsága egyértelműen pozitívu - tetszett a film, az IMDB 10-ből 9 tists since the seventies that the world is running out of fiatal dán forgatókönyvíró, és re - ma a filmnek, szükség volt már pontot adott rá, úgyhogy nyu- mekre sikeredett. Az operatőri egy ilyenre a mostani krimik godtan ajánlom bárkinek, aki sze- fossil fuel. For example, did you know that there are 10 munka is kiváló, gyönyörűek a közhelyes és egy kaptafára épült reti a jó krimit. — Gábor Wavrik calories of hydrocarbon energy in every calorie of food consumed in the industrialised world? Think of fertilis - A legjobb biciklis CiNeMA DireCtOrY ers, pesticides, transport, packaging, farming machines, belvárosI mozI — 6720 Szeged, Vaszy Viktor tér 3, etc. His apocalyptic vision of the future is haunting, blog 2010 Tel: (62) 543 185; 543 186, www.belvarosimozi.hu bem mozI – Margit krt. 5/b, II district, Trams: 4, 6, spanning the crises in economics, energy, environment Felüdítő érzés olvasgatni a „Cycle chick” Margit utca stop, Tel: (62) 316 8708, http://bemmozi.blogspot.com and what will come unless we as humans evolve a new című blogot (www.cyclechick.blog.hu), campoNa palace cINema – Nagytétényi út 37- 45, XXII district, bus 3 to Nagytétény, Tickets: (62) 999 social model. He calls for a change, as Communism, So - melynek jelmondata: „stílusos bringások, 6161, www.palacecinemas.hu cialism, Capitalism, are all outdated concepts based on bringás stílusok”. A szinte naponta frissülő cINema cITy plaza – 1121 Budapest, Rákóczi Ferenc út 154-170 (Csepel Plaza), Tel: (62) 425 the assumption that there are infinite resources available olvasók által beküldött biciklis képeken és 8111, www.cinemacity.hu cINema cITy Új udvar – 1032 Budapest, Bécsi út on earth. Want to know how bad it is? Take a look at bejegyzéseken kívül információkat talál - 38-44 (Új Udvar Mall), Tel: (62) 437 8383, www.cinemacity.hu Derivatives: In Sept. 2008, there were over $700 trillion hatunk itt mindenfajta bringás eseményről cINema európa – 1074 Budapest, Rákóczi út 82, of derivatives in notional value. Totalling far more than és programról, és sok más klikkelni való is Tel: (62) 322 5419, www.europamozi.freeweb.hu cINema művész – Művész Mozi, 1063 Teréz körút all the money in the world! Collapse, aside from being a akad. Ilyen például egy video egy biciklis 30, Metro 1, Trams: 4, 6 station/stop , Tel: (62) 332 6726, www.artmozi.hu stark reminder that a recovery will just return us to the divatbemutatóról, vagy egy lírai klipp a téli cINema pusKIN – Puskin Mozi, Kossuth Lajos utca 18, Metro 2 station Astoria, Metro 3 station Ferenciek same position, is also a portrait of a loner. Ruppert, Budapesten biciklizés nehézségeiről. Nem tere, Tel: (62) 429 6080, www.artmozi.hu standing up for his beliefs despite fierce opposition, has csoda, hogy a Goldenblog2010 szavazásán cIrKó-gejzír – Balassi Bálint út 15-17, V district, Trams: 4,6, , Tram 2 Jászai Mari tér sacrificed a lot to get his message out, which is nothing a kategóriájában nevezett 400 blogból be- terminus, Tel: (62) 269 0904, www.cirkofilm.hu corvIN budapesT fIlmpaloTa – Corvin köz less than the collapse of industrial civilisation itself. került a legjobbak közé. Ajánlom bárkinek, 1, VIII district, Metro 3 station Ferenc körút, Tram: 4, Tram: 6 stop Üllői út, Tickets: (62) 459 5050, Film info: (62) www.megavideo.com/?v=GE7 jelenlegi és jövőbeli bringásoknak egyaránt. 459 5059, www.corvin.hu duNa plaza Hollywood mulTIplex — Váci út 178, XIII district, M3 Metro: Gyöngyösi utca station, Tel: (62) 467 4267, www.intercom.hu read Or dIe! HuNNIa – 1073 Budapest, Erzsébet körút 26, Tel: (62) 321 7580 KossuTH palace mozI & bar – 1132 Budapest, Váci út 14, Tel: (62) 467 4260 economics, happiness and Optimism lurdy Ház Hollywood mulTIplex – if you are tired of reading all the negative news in the newspaper, and watching all the Könyves Kálmán krt. 12-14, Tram: 4, 6, or Tram: 1 Mester economic doom and gloom in the cable tv media, then boy do i have a decent book to utca stop, Tel: (62) 467 4267, www.intercom.hu mammuT palace cINema — Lövőház utca 2-6, recommend to you! II district, Trams: 4, 6, Széna tér stop, Ticket: 999 6161, www.palacecinemas.hu mom parK palace cINema – Alkotás utca 53, The Rational Optimist - How Prosperity Evolves is written by Matt Ridley, a very knowl - MOM Park Shopping Center, XII district, Trams: 59, 61, edgeable scientist who has spent a lifetime studying human civilization, societies, and Ticket: 999 6161, www.palacecinemas.hu movIe museum ÖrÖKmozgó – Örökmozgó evolution. He's discovered that the rich actually are happier, but not by much, and sug - Filmmúzeum, 1073 Erzsébet krt. 39, Trams: 4, 6, stop gests that if you are 10-times as rich, you are not ten-times as happy. Nevertheless you Király utca műcsarNoK — Art Hall / Kunsthalle, 1146 Budapest, are somewhat happier overall. Hősök tere, Tel: (62) 460 7000; 363 2671, “We should judge wealth not only by money in the bank, but rather we should be also www.mucsarnok.hu odeoN-lloyd mozI – 1135 Budapest, Hollán Ernő counting the benefits received,” and he explains that if you get free health care, what is utca 7, Tel: (62) 329 2064, www.odeon-lloyd.hu the relative value of that? If you get a housing allowance, or are fortunate enough to ÖrÖKmozgó – 1073 Budapest, Erzsébet körút 39, Tel: (62) 342 2167 rent from a landlord under rent control, what is the benefit of that, and how does that palace wesTeNd – in Westend City Center, Váci út attribute to your standard of living, or quality of life. The book has many themes, it 1-3, VI district, Metro 3 Nyugati pályaudvar, Trams: 4, 6 station/stop Nyugati pályaudvar, Ticket: 999 6161 seems to discuss similar issues to “The World is Flat” and “Tipping Point” and even a lit - www.westend.hu, www.palacecinemas.hu tle “Black Swan” and since it is written by Matt Ridley you know he comes from a evolutionary perspective, and is palace mammuT – Mammut Center, Lövőház utca well studied in human historical migration. He speaks specifically to the reality of billions living with very little, 2-6, Metro 2 station Moszkva tér, Trams: 4, 6 stop Széna tér, www.mammut.hu, www.palacecinemas.hu even challenged for water, and the number of people living in less than a dollar a day. pólus ceNTer Hollywood mulTIplex He shows how religious people seem to do better with regards to commerce and capitalism - fairness in buying – Szentmihályi út 131, XV district, Bus 173 to final stop, Tel: (62) 467 4267, www.intercom.hu and selling. He appears to be a capitalist as well, showing how capitalism has done quite well for lifting people out szINdbád – 1137 Budapest, Szent István körút 16, Tel: of poverty. He shows how it is the mission of human beings to build a better life for himself and his family, and in (62) 349 2773 TabáN – 1016 Budapest, Krisztina körút 87-89, Tel: (62) this quest we should see future optimism for ecology, economics, and happiness. Improvements in modern first 356 8162 world environment are extremely better today, than they were 50 years ago. As people have more money, they ToldI mozI – 1054 Budapest, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 36–38, Tel: (62) 472 0397, Metro: Deak Ferenc tér, tend to demand a better quality of air and water, and food. And as the society does more industrialization and www.artmozi.hu commerce in the beginning – things are problematic to a point, then there is a shift. He discusses Chinese Cities, uráNIa NaTIoNal movIe THeaTre – Uránia Nemzeti Filmszínház, Rákóczi út 21, VIII district, Metro 2 and Mexico City and India, and how in the future they will clean up their acts, cities, and environment and Matt, station Blaha Lujza tér, Ticket: 486 3400, www.urania-nf.hu shows how this is a natural progression. Matt Ridley gave a great talk in NY City at the New York Academy of Sci - vÖrÖsmarTy – 1085 Budapest, Üllői út 4, Tel: (62) ence for Book CSPAN2 TV in May, which you can view on YouTube. — Lance Winslow, www.worldthinktank.net 317 4542

THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe womeN wIll Never be equal To meN uNTIl THey caN walK dowN THe sTreeT wITH a bald Head aNd a beer guT, aNd sTIll THINK THey are sexy. BOred? CaN’T deCIde WHere TO GO? GÁBOr WavrIk aSked SOMe STraNGerS: what’s your sweet spot?

Péter, tour driver Emese, Student “I tell people to try the pubs “I like the student bars because they on Vaci Utca.” are more affordable for me.” átlátni a cigarettafüstön IMMÁrON NeGYedIk évadÁHOZ érkeZeTT aMerIkÁBaN a Mad MeN (rekLÁMőrüLTek) TévéSOrOZaT. HOrvÁTH MIkLóS (WIZdOG)

manapság „legjobb drámasorozat” - ként emlegetett televíziós produkció idén is nagyszámú jelöléssel büszkélkedhet az éves díjátadókon. A rajongók Apedig türelmetlenül azon töprengenek, hogy vajon most mi fog történni a kedvenc reklámosaikkal? A kérdés hallatán a sorozat agya, Matthew Weiner inkább csak sejtelmesen mosolyog, és mindössze annyit árul el, hogy „a szereplők minde - gyike szembekerül egy-egy korábbi döntése következményeivel.” Ahelyett, hogy Éva, area resident Robert, tourist különböző fórumokon kutatva igyekeznénk mi is hozzájutni pár információ - “I love the buildings and shops “We've walked along the riverfront morzsához, inkább próbáljuk meg használni a fejünket, és végiggondolni, hogy ez in downtown.” a lot. I like that a lot.” mit is jelenthet. Elvégre, ez egy igényes embereknek írt sorozat, nem? Először is, a negyedik évadra a sorozatok nagy részét eléri a kifulladás veszélye. Muszáj alap - jaiban változtatni az egész helyzeten, különben leül az egész sorozat. Itt is ez történik: Don Draper, Roger Sterling, Bert Cooper, és Lane Pryce, hátat fordítva az angol tulajdonosoknak új reklámcéget alapítottak, ahová magukkal vitték Peggyt, Pete-et, Harryt, és (hál’ Istennek) az elbűvölő Joant is. Ezzel Don számára ismét új élet kezdődik. Miközben partnerré vált az új cégben, a házassága tönkrement: a felesége, Betty elhagyta őt egy képviselőért, mivel már nem tűrte tovább a mel - lőzöttséget, és a titkolódzást (vagy nevezzük őket egyszerűen hazugságoknak?). Most pedig, hogy Don ismét egyedülálló lett, a nézők egy része, kíváncsian várja, vajon milyen nőkkel fog összejönni a főszereplőnk? Roger, aki korábban elhagyta a feleségét egy fiatal titkárnőért, Jane-ért, a harmadik évad végére nem tűnt igazán boldognak az iszákos és ostobácska nő mellett. Pete Campbell eddig mindig csak az elismerésre vágyott. Most végre ő az elsőszámú account, de kérdés, vajon képes-e együtt maradni Trudyval, akit nem szeret igazán, annak ellenére, hogy a felesége egy okos, és odaadó nő. A másik népszerű karrierista, Peggy Olson Don elsőszámú Péter and Orsolya, area residents szövegírójává lépett elő a harmadi k évad befejező részében, és kíváncsian várjuk, “Belváros is beautiful places and shops. vajon tovább folytatódik-e a viszonya Duck-kal? Ne feledkezzünk meg azért Don A beautiful life.” családjáról sem: Bettyről eddig is tudtuk, hogy nem jó anya, ezért most az is kérdés, hogy fog megbirkózni ezzel a feladattal? A mostani élettársa, Henry Francis mellett már vélhetőleg nem kell annyira a háttérbe húzódnia. Hogyan tudja feledtetni az apjuk hiányát Sallyvel és Bobbyval? És, ha már válásnál tartunk, izgal - mas kérdés, hogy mennyire életképes a továbbiakban Joan házassága? Már réges- rég lehullt számára az álarc a korábban álmodott orvos férjről, helyette ott maradt egy önző bunkó, aki még sebésznek sem volt túl jó. Ezalatt pedig zajlanak tovább a „hatvanas évek”. Kennedy halott, a polgárjogi mozgalom is sikeres, a nők pozí - ciója egyre jobb. Mi jöhet még? A vietnámi háború? A liberalizmus előretörése? A Mad Men azért izgalmas sorozat, mert bár a nézők (és itt nem csak az amerika - iakra gondolok) nem tudják, hogy mi fog történni az egyes szereplőkkel, ismerik a kort, amiben a sorozat játszódik. A Mad Men nem arra törekszik, hogy megszé- pítse a múltat, hanem hogy hiteles, és sokak számára ismerős jelmezekben és mili- őben megmutassa: az akkor élő emberek sem voltak szentek. Ezzel furcsa tükröt tart a mostani világunknak, hiszen a folyamatos összehasonlítgatás óhatatlan. Elvégre a mai reklámosok egyik feladata, hogy leszoktassanak minket a cigarettáról… Ibrahim, Microbiologist Ilona, student Good food? Astoria Turkish Favourite place? “Starbucks!” — ameNNyIbeN érdeKelNeK a sorozaT KorábbI részeI, ITT Hosszabb leírásT Is TalálHaTsz Restaurant, Star kebab. róluK: HogyvolT.blog.Hu Tag: reKlámőrülTeK

WWW.THINk-MaGaZINe.COM 2 eaTZ dining options thinky’s Favourite eating joints Finally a guide to eating in Budapest that’s not cream-filled with kiss-ass copy. We tell you the real deal on what’s good, and what’s not, around town. Not some phone book sized listing, just the real deal... Read it all; you might learn something. Suggestions? Email: [email protected].

GOA CAFÉ ÉTTEREM stop) Nem csak palacsintákat lehet itt lection of foods at very reasonable prices. I 101. Andrássy út , t: +3-30-302-270, kapni ebben a gyorsétterem láncban, enjoyed a seeded duck breast salad, that h-v: 12.00-2.00 Talán a legszebb étterem hanem például töltött-reszelt főtt krump- had so many seeds it was impossible to Pesten, gyönyörű keleti-minimál-barátsá - lit is (a klasszikus sajtos-tejfölössel nem tell what they were…except delicious. The gos stílusban. Bár az árszínvonalban is lehet mellényúlni), vagy tárkonyos csirke- duck was surprisingly flavoursome with or - meglátszik, hogy elit helyen elit étterem - ragu levest. Palacsintát szinte mindenhol ange and lemon, the usual lettuce was ben eszünk, a jó minőségű nemzetközi ettem már az országban, de itt a legjobb: present, but with every mouthful, a differ - konyhát is beszámítva mindenképpen vékony a tészta, viszont ízletes és jól át - ent flavour ensued with a variety of dress - megéri az árát azoknak, akik jó hangulatú, sült. Nem csoda, hogy a tulajdonosok már ings in different parts of the plate. Kiado szép és elegáns helyen akarnak különleges a harmadik boltot nyitják. — WG Kocsma offers a very relaxed atmosphere for ételeket enni. Személy szerint gyakran FOR SALE PUB the local, expat and traveller alike, and with viszem külföldi vendégeimet ide. — WG an Olde Worlde décor style, you will feel like 10 budapest, vámház körút 2. tel: 0 1 Frici Papa you’ re in Budapest of yester year! — DH MOMOTARO RAMEN ÉTTEREM 27-027 Great pub/restaurant with a Kifőzdéje 101. széchenyi utca 1, t: +3-1-29- décor that will leave you amazed…1,000’s VENDIAK PUB-RESTAURANT of business cards all pinned to the walls 103 budapest, egyetem tér . belváros. 302, h-v: 11.00-22.00 Valószínűleg a is rather di - and ceilings. With an excellent menu that tel: 27-022 Metro: Kalvin ter A super, legautentikusabb ázsiai hami Budapesten. verse, but if you were to any - caters for all tastes the only thing is…you light and airy venue, with a menu to A hely maga elég egyszerű és kicsit zsufis, one the world round what they will need a huge appetite as the servings de az ételek semmiben sem hasonlítanak please all pallets’, with both local Hun - knew of it, you would likely are huge. (Smaller portions are available a Budapesten megszokott kínai éttermek garian and international food choices, it elicit a single response. That re - for children). An excellent selection of im - rosszminőségű, teljesen egyhangú kíná- is reasonably priced and has excellent sponse would be, of course, port and local beers, complimentary pea- latához. A ramen kedvelőknek ott a sa - service. All menu items are clearly de - “Goulash!” Goulash is probably nuts that you just chuck the shells on the vanyú-erős, dumplingban ajánljuk a scribed in both Hungarian and English in the first dish sought by every hagymás-húsost, szaftos ételben a gyöm - floor and that Olde Worlde feel. Live music easy to read styles. It is clean, hip and visitor Hungary, and rightly so, béres-gombás csirkét (japán shitakival), from locals playing all your favourites , ex - not a tourist rip-off joint!!! This is a as it is delicious. But visitors and kísérőnek a pácolt retket. Persze a gyorskí - cellent service and prices that won’t empty place to impress your date, your part - new residents don’t know your wallet. — DH naiknál drágább, de megéri. — WG ner…for dinner or just for a coffee or a goulash like the locals do. They NAGYI PALACSINTÁZÓJA KIADO KOCSMA! beer. Located near to the Kalvin Ter. don’t know who makes it right Üzletek: iii. szentendrei út 131, v. Petőfi 101 jokal ter 3, tel: 331 19 – Metro – Metro, in the museum district of Bu - when mom is too busy to s u 17, Xii: Királyhágó tér 2. Nyitva Oktagon A little eatery located in the hos - dapest, it is in easy reach of many of the make. But if it is goulash made tartás: eltérő (a szentendrei úton non- tel district of Budapest, offering a wide se - transport routes in the city. — DH the way the locals like it that you want, then head to Frici thiNKY reCOMMeNDs: Papa. A recent visit to this fine little gem was not only enjoy - Mani Manó Kávézó able but quite easy on the A belváros szívében, a Nagymező utca 20-ban van egy nagyhírű kis pocketbook. The service was kávézó, családias hangulattal, kellemes nyitva-tartással. szabó fast and attentive, and we had tünde üzletvezetővel beszélgettünk. scarcely seated ourselves before menus were in our hands and a thiNK: Nagyon hangulatos a hely, látszik, hogy átgondoltan lett kialakítva a belső smiling face awaited our order. design, még ha eklektikus is. Egy dolog azért kicsit meglepő: a bugyi-zöld fal. Despite being a local favourite , the menus sport English transla - sZt: Inkább kórház-zöldnek mondanám. A kávézó egy műemléképületben tion. In our party of five, all but van, Mai Manó egykori udvari fotográfus épületében. A Műemlékvédelmi Hi - one ordered goulash, which vatal ragaszkodott ehhez a zöld színhez. Először nekünk is furcsa volt, de mi - was rich and spicy without után „megtelt” a fal képekkel és tükrökkel, kifejezetten megszerettük. A Mai being hot. The taste of the beef Manó név is a hivatal előírása volt, de ez teljesen egybevágott az elképzelé - shined in the rich flavors of the seinkkel, ugyanis szerettünk volna egy kiállító-helyet teremteni fiatal, fél-profi sauce, rather than being ob - és kezdő fotósoknak, ahol megmutathatják magukat. Az első kiállításunk scured. We ordered our selec - egyébként a mester (Mai Manó) gyerekfotóiból rendeztük, nagy siker volt. tions with fries, roasted potatoes, and white rice, but Azóta is havonta frissülnek a kiállított képek, és folyamatosan új fotósok jelen - the, lightly buttered, herbed po - nek meg, egy évre előre be vagyunk táblázva. Egyébként elég sok képet el is tatoes truly best highlight the adnak. A mostani kiállító például már ötöt. work of Frici Papa’s chef. Order what you wish, though, as the thiNK: Pár hónapja, amikor itt jártam, láttam Csányi Sándort, itt kávézga - goulash is the star here and I tott. Gyakran járnak ide színészek? could well have eaten it with just the bread on the table, SZT: Mivel itt a „Pesti Broadway” közepén nyitottunk, szezonban nagyon which was also quite good. As sok színész jár ide, sokan közülük törzsvendégek, van, aki már puszi pajtás. for portions, we could have or - Pár név azok közül akik járnak, vagy jártak ide, a teljesség igénye nélkül: dered two to share. They are Csányi, Garas, Kulka, Eszenyi, Wayna, Alföldi, Dobó Kata, Nagy Zsolt. Van huge. The prices are easy on olyan, hogy itt próbálnak, de olyan is, hogy előadás után itt vezetik le a fe- the pocketbook across the me- szültséget. nu. It gets no better than this. If you are new in town, get your- thiNK: Nem féltek az elmúlt pár évben tömegesen megnyíló kávéházláncok konkurenciájától? self over to Frici Papa imme- diately. If you have been here sZt: Nem igazán. Úgy gondoljuk, hogy egész más fajta, jobb minőségű kávét szolgálunk fel, és más módon. Ott jellemzőbb for a spell but have been miss- a nagyüzem. Mi nálunk családias a légkör, a felszolgálók sokszor elbeszélgetnek a vendégekkel. A kiállítások is adnak egy ing out, well… now you know. egyedi hangulatot a helynek. Ha megnézed az olaszokat, ott nagyon kevés frenchise kávéházlánc van, nem véletlenül. — Francis Pruett thiNK: Mire vagy a legbüszkébb? budapest, vi. ker. Király u. sZt: Arra, hogy a Manó az első boltvezetői munkám, és 8 éve töretlenül sikeres. Mindig vannak új dolgok, és nagyon stabil és  (0) 1 31 0197, Monday- jó a felszolgáló gárda. Többször is volt olyan, hogy valaki elment, majd visszajött hozzánk dolgozni. Az étlapról pedig leginkább saturday, 11-23 a helyben sütött friss croissant ajánlom tejeskávéval, narancslével, reggelire, isteni (összesen 1300 Ft-ért)! — Wavrik Gábor

THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe „ÖNmaguNK megIsmerése a legNagyobb uTazás, a legfélelmesebb felfedezés, a legTaNulságosabb TalálKozás.” - máraI sáNdor k e s c a v z S a l i t t A : o t o h P iN PrAise OF trADitiON IN BUdapeST, ONe SeeS THe LUSH FeMININe CUrveS OF BUda CONNeCTed BY THe LIGHTS OF THe CHaIN BrIdGe TO THe STrONG MaSCULINe SkYLINe OF peST. HILarY FrINk

ou can see the changes from the elegant Austro-Hungarian Empire, to bland Communism, to the eclectic modern movements, and still all combined cre - Yate a majestic place of culture. There is nothing that represents this unique blend of history more than the expansive variety of food offered in Budapest.

People around the world have different tastes and different qualities they look for in dinning. Since we all have different tastes it is very important to stop and consider, “what is the typical cuisine in the new city you have just stepped off the bus in?” To the real question; what is Hungarian food?

The best example of real Hungarian food can be found at this cute little lunch place called KáDár éttereM . Just across from, the little Klauzál Ter Park is the per - fect place for lunch with your close friends, or enjoy a late breakfast with a special someone after a long night. This adorable lunch restaurant is one of a dying breed with its small tables and bottle of seltzer water on each table. The food is made fresh every day. If a dish runs out, well, you are out of luck, so get there early if you can. To begin with, sharing time, just sitting down with your friends, is a nice way to start your day, but as you walk in you get a comfortable feeling, like going to your grandparent’s house for a good home cooked meal.

The menu consists of some of the most classic Hungarian foods known today. While there I enjoyed a typical cabbage stew with warm bread. The stew tasted like I had gone back to a time with no worries, just a rich creamy soup to satisfy the hunger of life. One of my friends enjoyed a terrific beef gulyas , with the tradi - tional broth that brings warmth and comfort to even the toughest of days. The other devoured roasted pork with potatoes, the pork so tender that it melts in your mouth, and the potatoes roasted to perfection.

All of these dishes reflect the traditional Hungarian foods for they include meat, powdered paprika, root vegetables, cabbage, and lots of cream. For beverages they have the best seltzer water on the tables in spray bottles. One piece of advice: fe - males beware, unless you intend to impress someone, don’t wear white because one strong squeeze and you will get drenched from head to foot. One might think this is hilarious, until it happens to you. Think about it! In the end you will leave with an unforgettable story that can be told for years and years to come.

At the end of the meal we were able to try the dessert of the day. Every day they have a different pastry or dessert that is every bit as tasty as the main meals, all made fresh to create an overpowering aroma and flavour that will put you in a food comma. Over all Kádár Étterem is a good place to first experience to Hungari - an food. The wait staff is very friendly and makes the whole experience all the more welcoming for you and your friends. As a good friend of mine says, “No one should ever have to eat alone!” So grab some friends or a loved one and go explore Budapest one morsel of food at a time.

— Kádár éTTerem - 1072 budapesT, Klauzál Tér 9. opeN Tuesday To saTurday 11:30- 15:3

WWW.THINk-MaGaZINe.COM 2 aGeNda 1 ways to leave your sofa 14 öTLeT, HOGY eLMeNJ HaZULróL

ki kíváncsi a magyar International Dance iparművészek és kéz- Aművesek munkáira, Latino World Dance Festival mert olyan autentikus tár - 8th to 12th September 2010, Sportmax Hegyvidék gyakra vágyik, ahol biztos nem fut bele „Made in China” feliratokba, látogas- In a huge coup for Budapest, the International Dance Organization will present the son el szeptember 12-én, vasárnap a lAtiNO wOrlD DANCe FestivAl (www.vilagtancfesztival.hu). World Championships will be on the line in American Mambo, Rueda De Casino, Small Group and Couples wAMP DesigN MArKet rendezvényére Latino Show Dancing and, of course, the ever-more-popular Salsa. European Cham - az Erzsébet térre. Kis széria, kreativitás pionships will be determined for dancers in Special Couples Dance, Bachata and reggeltől estig. Szeptember 15-én ad American Tango. The event will also play host to World Cup competition in a variety koncertet a Papp László Sportaréná- of styles, but for all the excitement of competition, the first half of the week will see a slew of workshops offered for those who prefer “doing” to “seeing.” Workshops ban a PlACebO együttes, a „sötét will be held at Casa De La Música (VIII., Vas utca 16, Budapest, www. casadelamusi - romantikus rock zene” jeles képviselő - ca.hu) while the competitions will be held at the Sportmax Hegyvidék. Tickets can be pur - je. A nőies külsőt öltött férfi frontem- chased in advance from Casa De La Música or at the door from the Sportmax 2 Ticket ber úgy egyensúlyoz a nemek között, Office 1123 Csörsz utca 14-16. For more information on this Budapest first, including mint a formáció zenei hangzása a ke- workshop reservations: 0036 209469997 or [email protected]. mény rock zenei alapok és a sejtelmes- élményben lehet részünk. Nem sok dára, és érinti a Városligetet is. Ez az a s if the Dalai Lama's lágy énekhang között. MiChAel KeN - művészetet kedvelő ember van, aki ne nap, amikor jobb a futók között lihegni, visit (perhaps for a tish jó ideje hazánkban élő angol ismerné és szeretné gUstAv KliMtet , mint az útlezárások miatti forgalmi Awine tasting, some zenész. Hangulatos akusztikus gitár- így a Szépművészeti Múzeumban szep- dugóban ücsörögni. Mindennap nyitva jazz and to show off his koncertre számíthatunk tőle szeptem- tember 23-án nyíló kiállítás, mely Klimt a liviNg rOOM (Kossuth Lajos utca salsa skills) is not enough, it looks like September will be the month to head Retro out and about. If you are looking for a cause to support and something „Here and Now” unique for yourself, you can head to A 80-as évek angol popzenéjének sztárjai Budapesten the wAMP DesigN MArKet (www. Papp László Sportaréna, 2010. október 2. wamp.hu) at Erzsébet tér on the 12th. You'll be buying Hungarian, and that's Élőben a 80-as évek! Rokizhatunk Boy George „Kaméleon”-jára, a good cause in our book. Papp László lassúzhatunk Paul Young „Every Time You Go Away” című örökzöldjére, break- elhetünk Kim Wilde „Keep Me Hanging On”-jára, és bármelyik táncot villant- Sportaréna will be rocking and rolling hatjuk, vagy csak lötyöghetünk Rick Astley „Nerver Gonna Give You Up”-jára. all month long, and it seems they want - A vasfüggöny gyengülésével szerencsére ezek a dalok már annak idején is elju - ed to pack the most excitement into tottak hozzánk, igaz nem élőben, hanem házibulikon, esetleg diszkókban. Jó is one week. volt a Fortuna, ahol az első funky-kat hallotuk, vagy a Margit Híd Diszkó a vil - lódzó műanyag parkettel és folyamatos videoklipp vetítéssel. No, de elég a PlACebO , England’s latest “I want to nosztalgiából, jó esély van rá, hogy az 50 körüli sztárok minden korosztály be bigger than the Beatles” pop troop, számára élvezhető koncertet csapnak majd. Papák, mamák, hívjuk el az utó - dokat, és mutassuk meg, hogy még mindig tudunk bulizni! hits the stage on September 15. The group ducks out just in time for Ben ber 16-án, a Lázár utcai Treehugger és a korai bécsi szecesszió művésze- 17), ahol a fiatalok élő DJ zenére bu - Hur to take over for three performanc - Dan’s Bookstore-Lounge-ban, ami nem inek munkáiból válogat, biztos sikerre lizhatnak hajnalig, bár idősebbek is es of roman chariot races and the like. csak angol nyelvű könyvekre specia- számíthat. Szerencsére a kiállítás 2011. elkezdhetik. Buli után irány a török! lizálódott antikvárium és könyvesbolt, januárig nyitva lesz. Szeptember 24-25- Aki változatos ízekre vágyik, a Chef One might wonder if they will need hanem különféle rendezvények hely- én rendezik a hazai folyékony kenyér Főzőiskolában a helye. A világ minden an army of volunteers to clean up after színe és kávézó is. Az itt forgalmazott ünnepét, vagyis a bUDAPesti CsAPOlt tájáról származó receptek elkészítésén the horses and disinfect in time for the kávé „fair trade” úton kerül az üzletbe, sÖr FesZtivált , ahol kis hazai sör - munkálkodhatunk szakértők irányítá- holy guy the next day. Count me out, ami azt jelenti, hogy a harmadik világ - főzdék mutatják be büszkeségeiket a sával, igényes, inspiráló környezetben. man. There's always something going beli termelők méltányos árakon értéke- nagyközönségnek, miközben verse- Szeptemberben tizennyolc egy napos on at the Sportaréna, so check out sítik a terményt a kereskedőknek. Szep- nyeznek is egymással. A győztes sört kurzus indul. their site and see what you like (www. tember 16-án kezdődik és október e- egy évig lehet majd fogyasztani a budapestarena.hu). lejéig tart a bUDAPesti bArOKK FesZ - Szimpla Kávézóban, ami tivál a Váci utcai Szent Mihály temp- nem kis szó a multik által Tribute Bands lomban. A templomi komolyzene ked - uralt magyar sörpiacon. Ha Letz Zep velői idén főleg J.S. Bach műveit hall- sörkülönlegességekre 24th September 2010, Sports Arena gathatják, a szervezők ezzel köszöntik vágyunk, látogassunk el pén - Budapest a zeneszerző születésének 260-ik évfor - teken, vagy szombaton a dulóját. A bő két hétig tartó pro- Király és Hegedű utca sar- Enjoy an evening with the music of gram-sorozat szinte minden napjára jut kára. Nem csak sörivóknak Led Zeppelin when Letz-Zep takes the előadás, érdemes megkeresni a tem - ajánlott a szeptember 26-ára, stage, and find out why Robert Plant said “I walked in, I saw me”. This plom hivatalos weboldalát. Aki nagy- vasárnapra szervezett bUDA- amazingly talented tribute band will szabású zenés látványosságra vágyik, Pest NeMZetKÖZi MArA- be playing a live concert at the Papp szeptember 17-18-án menjen el a Bu - tON . Több táv között is László Budapest Sportaréna from dapest Sportarénába a beN hUr ihlette választhatunk, így bárki 8pm, so be sure to order your tickets szuperprodukcióra. A lóverseny jelenet nevezhet. A szervezők sok early at Worldticketshop.com. kapcsán korábban hallott problémá- ezer emberre számítanak. kon úgy látszik, sikerült túllépni, így a Az útvonal a belvárosban Magyar Vágta izgalmaival vetélkedő cikázik, átmegy Pestről Bu-

THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe „NINcs más elleNsége az emberNeK, csaK a bűNTudaT és a félelem. a szereTeT és a TudaTosság Igaz baráTaId.” - dalaI láma Of course, if this is all too much for you, I suggest you accept sanctuary in a church. I hear the music can be lovely. the bUDAPest bArOqUe FestivAl runs from the 16th through Oct. 3rd at Szent Mihály Church and should be well worth a listen. From Bach to Vivaldi and Mozart, they have quite a program Lecture planned. Check their website (www. Dalai Lama barokkfesztival.hu) for details. You can Budapest, September 18–19 schedule your attendance around a favourite piece or composer pretty easi - Since he’ll be in town, here ly, as the whole program is online. are some simple tips for living a more harmonious life from Some of these shows can be a bit the Dalai Lama. pricey, but then much of what we like is pretty inexpensive, too. MiChAel KeN - 1. Take into account that great love and great achieve - tish will be at Treehugger Dan's playing ments involve great risk. his own tunes (and a few “stolen” ones). 2. When you lose, don't lose It should be a nice and mellow night. the lesson. Dan always has a plan, so see what his 3. Follow the three Rs: Re - schemes include at the website: (www. spect for self, Respect for oth - treehuggerdans.com). Pick up a book or ers and Responsibility for all two for when you decide to stay home. your actions. All of them are used and that means 4. Remember that not getting green. And, like the performances he what you want is sometimes put on, they are reasonably priced. a wonderful stroke of luck. 5. Learn the rules so you know how to break them If your needs are more visual, (or you properly. happen to be deaf, lacking in apprecia - 6. Don't let a little dispute in - tion for music or just plain want some jure a great friendship. quiet) then you can take in some won - 7. When you realize you've derful works by gUstAv KliMt At the made a mistake, take immedi - MUseUM OF FiNe Arts (www.szepmu ate steps to correct it. veszeti.hu). Ah, the art of sexy women 8. Spend some time alone and long kisses never disappoints. This every day. is one collection you should not miss if 9. Open your arms to change, you can help it. As an added bonus, this but don't let go of your values. is definitely a winning date idea, folks. 10. Remember that silence is But there's no rush, he's already dead sometimes the best answer. and the exhibit lasts until January. You 11. Live a good, honourable can raise a glass to him anyway, if you life. Then when you get older and think back, you'll be able like, at a Craft Beer Festival on the 25th to enjoy it a second time. at Király and Hegedű utcas. Beer before 12. A loving atmosphere in church (or at least right in front of one)? your home is the foundation Why not? Sometimes it just rocks so for your life. much to not be a Mormon. 13. In disagreements with loved ones, deal only with the That beer should be a great way to current situation. Don't bring warm up before you shake your groove up the past. thing at the (www.living 14. Share your knowledge. It's liviNg rOOM a way to achieve immortality. room.hu), but it's probably a rotten way 15. Be gentle with the earth. to prepare for the bUDAPest iNterNA - (www.budapest 16. Once a year, go someplace tiONAl MArAthON you've never been before. marathon.com), which kicks off at 10 17. Remember that the best re - the 26th. Entries are still available. lationship is one in which your love for each other exceeds Me? I think I will be looking into a your need for each other. cooking class to impress (and educate) 18. Judge your success by my girlfriend, likely at chef parade what you had to give up in (www.chefparade.hu). I love her, but order to get it. wow... the things we eat for love. I think 19. Approach love and cook - I will take her to the wok cooking class... ing with reckless abandon. — DalaiLama-Budapest.hu

WWW.THINk-MaGaZINe.COM 2

drinking Pains, strains, and Author bar bills a drINker’S LaMeNT

“GOOd eveNING BarMaN.” “GOOd eveNING SIr. WHaT are YOU HavING?” “WeLL BarMaN, I’M HavING a Bad daY....” aNGUS MaTTHeWS

’ve started to worry about the effect that living in Budapest is having on my health. I appear to be going through some kind of mid-life health crisis. Or to ibe more accurate, some kind of mid-life bad health crisis. So you want to know what’s wrong with me? Well, for a start, I can’t get drunk like I used to. I mean, I can’t get drunk in the same way I used to. It’s now a lot harder and takes a lot longer than before.

Before my crisis, I could seamlessly work my way through half-a-dozen beers, with palinka chasers, followed by any number of cocktails and concoctions. I knew this would have the desired effect of making me ten feet tall and bulletproof by at least midnight. Now I have to start much earlier, and plan things carefully. There’s a real science going into my benders these days. It takes so much effort. The beer leaves me so bloated I have to hit the chasers much earlier in the night, and they often have to be double or triple strength before my body takes any notice.

“Oh!” it says to me after yet another tequila, “You’re trying to get drunk? Why did - n’t you tell me?” before hitting me with a skull cleaving migraine. I have to force the cocktails down my throat, and make sure I have a ready supply of pain-killers to keep up my momentum.

And then there’s the hangovers. These are real medical emergencies, complete with double vision and loss of speech. My body fights off the attentions of the hum - ble paracetemol and faithful old aspirin with barely a twitch. It demands stronger

chemicals and state-of-the-art manipulation. No longer does the hair of the dog that Art: Búsuló legény by László Mednyánszky bit me calm my jangling nerves and synapses. Now the ugly mutt keeps his jaws sult of an argument with the ground when falling off this very barstool. My left clamped to my temples, leaving me moist eyed and wiped out all the weekend. ankle has fared better than my right, which stiffened up after toppling down the steps of Gödör one night. I now have the annoying tendency to veer to the right On these occasions my memory lets me down ever more frequently. Maybe it’s when running. Fortunately I don’t do too much of that these days... always been this way, but I just can’t remember. The other week I found myself driving over the Chain Bridge and had no idea how I’d gotten there. I’d only gone I could go on barman, but do you understand what I’m saying? What’s the answer? out to buy a packet of smokes from the corner shop. I drove home feeling con - fused. It’s only when I’d got back to Kalvin tér that I remembered I needed “Excuse me sir, I didn’t quite catch that.” something from a shop in Buda. If I could only remember what it was. My knees creak, crack and crunch every time I stand up, or run, or move too quickly; the re - “The usual please barman.”

UNiqUe: CAFÉ CSIGA— vIII. vásár utca 2, Budapest, LEGENDS SPORTS BAR— v. petőfi tér 3, Budapest, gAY/lesbiAN/iNtergeNDereD: A38— a38 Ship petöfi Bridge Buda Side, Bu - Tram: 4, 6 Bus: 906, 923 rákóczi tér, Tel: +36 1 Tram: M2 vigadó tér, (06 1) 266 1826, www. leg - ACTION BAR— v. Magyar utca 42, Budapest, dapest, Tel: +36 1 464 3940, www.a38.hu eat, 210 0885, www.cafecsiga.org artsy, creative, ends.hu Big-screen, hi-definition international Metro: M3 Tram: 47, 49 Bus: 8, 9, 15, 83, 109, 112, drink and dance. I'm on a boat! laid-back alternative atmosphere, closes at sports bar 115 kálvin tér, Tel: (06 1) 266 9148, www.action 0100. .gay.hu, Men only, minimum drink order required. CAFFE ZAPPA— vIII. Mikszáth kálmán tér 2, CHAMPS SPORTS PUB (PEST)— vII. dohány utca Budapest, Bus: 9, 83, 109, 909 Szentkirályi utca, SANDOKAN LISBOA— vI. Hajós u. 23, Budapest, 20, Budapest, Metro: M2 astoria, Tram: 47, 49 MYSTERY BAR— v. Nagysándor József utca 3, Bu - Tel: +36 20 972 1711, www.zappacaffe.hu If you Bus: 70, 78 Zichy Jenő, Tel: (06 1) 302 7002, Bus: 5, 7, 8, 9, 109, 112, 173, Tel: (06 1) 413 1655, dapest, Metro: M3 Bus: 72, 73, 109, 914/a, 931, 950/a, merely like Frank Zappa, then prepare to be www.sandokanlisboa.hu avast! Named after a www. champs.hu Individual booths with televi - arany János utca, Tel: +36 1 312 1436, www. mystery - overloaded. fictional pirate, styled after a portuguese bar. sions, so plenty of sports “on tap.” bar.hu, Mixed gay and lesbian crowd. Mellow, quiet.

KLUB VITTULA— vII. kertész utca 4, Budapest, BAR DOMBY— vI. anker kőz 3, Budapest, Metro: CHAMPS BUDA SPORT PUB— II. erőd utca 22, Bu - CAPELLA CAFÉ— v. Belgrád rakpart 23, Budapest, Bus: 74, erzsébet kőrut, Metro: M2 Blaha Lujza M1, M2, M3 deak Ferenc tér, Tel: (06) 30 370 dapest, Tram: 4, 6 Bus: 11, 111, 906, 931, 960 Mech- Tram: M2 Bus: 15, 115 Március 15. tér, Tel: (06 1) tér, http://klubvittula.blogspot.com, arty. Cheap 262, www.bar-domby.hu Music varies but is wart liget, Tel: (06 1) 201 0569, www. champsbuda.hu 318 6231, www.capellacafe.hu Straight-friendly drinks, no dancing, friendly crowd. Long hours. current, regardless. Classy, great date bar. booths with their own televisions, as in pest. gay bar with elaborate cabaret and drag shows. MUsiC AND DANCiNg: sPOrts bArs AND PUbs: BOX UTCA— vI. Bajcsy Zsilinszky út 21, Budapest, COXX CLUB (FORMERLY CHAOS)— vII. dohány utca FAT MO'S— v. Nyáry pál u. 11, Budapest, Metro: 4PLAY SPORT PUB— vIII. József kőrut 60, Bu - Metro: M3 arany János utca, Bus: 72, 73, 109, 914, 38, Budapest, Metro: M2 Blaha Lujza tér, Tram: 4, M3 , Tel: +36 20 536 2616, dapest, Tram: 4, 6 Bus 9, 83, 109, 906, 909, 923 914a, 931, 950, (06 1) 354 1444, www.box-utca.hu 6 Bus: 5, 7/e, 179/e, 178/a, Tel: +36 1 344 4884 www.fatmo.hu The rules list (in english) says Baross utca & József körút, Tel: (06 1) 785 7362 pricy but screens, food and drinks are all great www.coxx.hu Metal themed bar with occasional no dancing, but join in, the sign's just a prop. Local and Uk sports on television. with excellent service. leather parties. Minimum purchase re quired.

THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe a bus sTaTIoN Is wHere a bus sTops. a TraIN sTaTIoN Is wHere a TraIN sTops. oN my desK, I Have a worK sTaTIoN.. idékiként Budapestre felkerülve az embernek bőven már egyébként komoly kultúrális központokká nőtte ki rUIN BarS/ rOMkOCSMa van mit megszoknia, a sok újdonság között pedig magát, és népszerűségüknek köszönhetően idegenforgalmi vegyaránt akadnak kellemes és kevésbé kellemes dol - jelentőséggel is bírnak. A bulikon, koncerteken kívül gyakran gok is. Persze ez hasonlóképp van, bárhova veti az embert a szerveznek filmvetítéseket, kortárs irodalmi előadásokat, sorsa, de a főváros valahogy mégis mintha bármilyen más helyet adva így az undergroundnak, egyben formálva a városnál inkább gyűjtőhelye lenne a válogatott külön- „mainstream” kultúrát is. Divatosságukat figyelembe véve legességeknek. A számomra kellemetlen megszoknivalók nehezen meghatározható, mennyire tekinthetjük az alter - közé tartozik például a tömegközlekedés és a vizeletpatakok natív kultúra színhelyeinek ezeket a kocsmákat, mindenese - a járdákon, illetve a zöld környezet hiánya. (Jó, tudom, itt is tre üde színfoltot jelentenek a szórakozási lehetőségek van park, meg fasor, de épp ez az, hogy zöldet csak a park - palettáján, Budapestnek, pedig, adnak egy jellegzetes karak - ban meg a fasoron látsz, nem úgy, mint otthon, ahol minden tert a túristák szemszögéből is. utcába jut egy kicsi.) SZIMPLA KERT vii. kerület Kazinczy u. 1 Ami jó, ahhoz persze sokkal könnyebb hozzászokni. A gyö- www.szimpla.hu A Szimpla kert volt az első a nyörű épületek a belvárosban, a dunaparti séták, az éjszakai romkocsma, ennek megfelelően mai napig a legismer - nyüzsgés... ezek bizony gyorsan elvarázsolják az ideláto - tebb, a neve már fogalommá vált. Alapítása óta már el gatót. Hétköznap is könnyen elfordulhat, hogy az esti séta kellett költöznie, fenyegette a bezárás réme is, mégis során az egyik sarkon váratlanul kisebb koncertbe, ki - szimbolikus jelentőségű alternatív szórakozóhely rakodóvásárba, egyéb performanszba botlunk, nem is be- maradt. A hangulatos megvilágítású kertben tökélyre szélve a szórakozóhelyek tömkelegéről. A felkapott buli- vitt szertelenség uralkodik. Az még hagyján, hogy az helyektől a hangulatos kávézókon át a klasszikus kocsmák- asztalok mellett ritkán talál az ember két egyforma MUMUS (ABOVE) bar. The selection of drinks includes ig terjedő skálán mindent megtalálunk sétatávon belül. széket, de az udvarban még egy kiszuperált Trabant is Dob utca 1, budapest 107 tel: the requisite Guinness, Jameson helyet kapott, kvázi páhollyá alakítva várja a vendége- +3 30 270 732 In Budapest, you and the rest of Ireland’s best, with Van egy fajtája, azonban a szórakozóhelyeknek, amelynek ket. A belső szobák falain gyakran látható kortárs mű- can find many ‘RUIN PUBS’… a good selection of Pálinkas, Amer - példányai az utóbbi pár évben kezdtek gombamód elsza - alkotásokból szervezett mini kiállítás, de azon se kell these are bars that are in the ican spirits and local brews. The porodni Budapesten, sőt, a járvány mára már egyes vidéki meglepődni, ha bringát látunk lógni a plafonról, vagy space between buildings, whilst fo od menu is sparing in its Irish of - városokat is elért. Ezek a helyek látogatottság és „diva- égősorok közé komponált monitorok merednek ránk a being unique to Hungary; they are ferings, but certainly not lacking in tosság” terén gyakran felveszik a versenyt a legnépszerűbb falról. Zsíros kenyér, fröccs és persze csocsó is van. great places to enjoy the warm the quality department. Expect to szórakozóhelyekkel, alapvető jellegüknek köszönhetően summer air and listen to great pay a fair price for it all. You will be mégis olyan érzést keltenek, mintha egy házibuliba tévedne KUPLUNG vi. kerület Király u.  music. The floors are bare con - served by a courteous and friendly az ember. A „romkocsmák” lassan egy évtizede indultak www.kuplung.net A Kuplung szintén régi motoros, 2004 crete, the furnishings are just a staff who, though English capable, hódító útjukra. Bár létük mára már beépült a köztudatba, és óta várja az alternatív élményekre vágyó fiatalságot. collection of whatever is at hand, always appreciate your attempts to a budapesti éjszakai élet szerves részeivé váltak, a kezdetek Kialakításában meglehetősen különbözik a „klasszikus” old armchairs, garden benches, speak a bit of Hungarian. kezdetén azért még sokan furcsálták az elhagyott, lebontás - romkocsmáktól, hiszen itt zegzugos, lerobbant bérház home standard lamps etc. with ra váró bérházak alsó szintjein, belső udvarában nyíló kocs- helyett egy csarnokszerű térben látták meg az alapítók a local DJ’s spinning up-beat and RÓKALYUK (FOXHOLE) mák ötletét. Az úttörő Szimpla kert sikere bizonyította, hogy fantáziát. A falakat állandó kiállításként graffitik díszítik, local tunes, cool street art décor, vii.  vesselényi Utca Rokályuk alapítói jó érzékkel sejtették meg a rést a piacon, és és bár a berendezés hasonlóan szedett-vedett és régi itt fast service and that industrial feels more like a bunker than a ráéreztek, mi hiányzott még a fővárosi közönségnek. is, a minimalista dizájn miatt itt egy grundon érezheti retro look that takes us back to magát jól a vendég. Sok csocsóasztal, a kivetítőn adott foxhole, but it tries not to be ei - the industrial parties of the 80’s, it De miben is rejlik a romkocsmák varázsa? Nyilván nincs e- időnkénti sportközvetítések szintén a „fiúkocsma” hangu - ther. The walls are painted bright is surely a place to go and relax gyetlen helyes válasz erre a kérdésre. Jómagam a szokatlan latot erősítik, de ez ne tévesszen meg senkit – ugyanúgy red and yellow, both beginning to whilst in Budapest. Keenly priced környezetre és a lazaságra tenném le a voksot – az állandó belefuthatunk egy jó kiállításba vagy színházi előadásba is. lose their luster. The grime-gather - so that it appeals to those travel - házibulihangulat nagyon kellemes kontrasztot jelent a puc - ing has begun in earnest, befitting ling on a budget, whilst not at - cos helyek garmadájához képest, ahova az ember szinte INSTANT vi. kerület Nagymező u. 3 a basement dive whose door is a tracting the dodgier side of society, félve lép be, aggódván, hogy kinézik a pincérek. Ettől aztán www.instant.co.hu Az Instant az egyik legifjabb induló a short step from the asphalt and ex - you will enjoy like-minded compa - nem kell tartani még a legdivatosabb romkocsmában sem. romkocsmák versenyében, hiszen csak 2008-ban nyitotta haust of the street. The bar itself is ny with the knowledge that you Miért is kéne, hiszen itt szemmel láthatólag még annyira sem meg kapuit. Ám ez egyáltalán nem jelenti, hogy hátrányos raised above the floor. Ascending will not get ripped off. Food is not szempont a külsőség, hogy egy „tisztességes” ülőgarnitúrát helyzetben lenne, hiszen különleges atmoszférájával gyor- to order would feel like offering served here, so eat before you go! beszerezzenek. És ez jó! A szedett-vedett, piacról-pincéből- san fel tudott kapaszkodni a legismertebb helyek közé. sacrifice to some subterranean padlásról beszerzett bútorzat csak fokozza az érzést, hogy bi - Ha egyetértünk abban, hogy a bérházakból kialakított IRISH CAT deity of imbibement, save for the zony valami spontán baráti összejövetel közepébe kocsmák elvarázsolt helyek, az Instanttal kapcsolatban 103, budapest , Múzeum krt. 1, paint job. Taken with Rokályuk’s csöppentünk, mikor beléptünk a különösebb jelzés nélküli, el kel l ismernünk, hogy magas fokon űzi az efféle mágiát. tel: 01 2 0, www.irishcat.hu strangely industrial interior shape, szokványos kapualjba. Hát még mekkora élmény felfedezni, A két bérház összenyitásával kialakított elvarázsolt If, upon death, your condemned one might muse that one drinks in hogy a sarokban álló fotel pontos mása annak, ami nagy - kastélyban az egykori lakások és szobák eredeti struk - soul is not yet finished partying, the belly of a far more infernal mamánk lakásában található, és hogy a szomszéd néninél is túráját megtartották, és azokat jól megkülönböztethető then it is just possible the Irish Cat beast: Thomas the Tank Engine, éppen ilyen hokedlin állt a fikusz. hangulattal ruházták fel. Van itt zöld és piros szoba, Pub will be your haunting grounds. zombie lord of toy marketing hell. magyar írók képeivel kitapétázott fürdőszoba, pillangós At least, this is what the Irish Cat But, at Rokályuk you can grab a A magával ragadóan hanyag berendezés mellett a klasszikus fal és felfordult nappali is, ahol a puff az állólámpával says might happen on its website. drink cheaply where the locals pesti bérházak – a romkocsmák esetében némiképp meg - együtt a mennyezeten találta meg a helyét. Kivetítő itt is The owner has strived to reproduce looked worn and weathered. bontott és/vagy lepusztult – elrendezéséből, szerkezetéből van az udvarban, ahogy sok más helyen is, de hol an Irish pub’s atmosphere for its Maybe. During my visit, the bar - adódó zegzugosság, félhomály is jó társ az estéhez, így a máshol mondhatná el magáról az ember, hogy egy le- patrons. This small but well main - maid was warding off utility work - tömeg ellenére sem kell úgy éreznünk, hogy mindenki a mi vegőben úszó halraj társaságában nézte az esti mecc - tained basement public house ers from shutting the place over a bizalmas beszélgetéseinket akarja kihallgatni. Az egykori set? Ha mindez nem lenne elég, még egy pinceszintet is sports walled booths and a wind - delinquent 3.600 HUF balance. szobákból, közlekedőkből kialakított, gyakran különbözően kialakítottak, ahol a koncertek és bulik mellett más un - ing common room wrapped dekorált terek között könnyen találunk aktuális hangu - derground kulturális események is helyet kaphatnak. around an appropriately stocked – Darren Halls latunknak éppen megfelelőt. Némelyik romkocsma mára – Szabolcska Orsi

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hotels & hostels A harmony of Accommodations CaSa de La MúSICa 1088 BUdapeST, vaS U. 16, TeL: 06 70 938 8888 WWW.CaSadeLaMUSICa.HU

It’s a hostel, its a bar, its a performance space! It’s Case de la Musica!

ONe CaN eaSILY, BUT MISTakeNLY, Take CaSa de La apparently, was feeling the music. In what is obviously a typical synergy for Casa MúSICa FOr JUST aNOTHer BUdapeST HOSTeL, IF a De La Música, Roham is also a resource for Hungarian film, creating props and de - sign for futuristic and art-house productions. Those, in turn, often end up in their MUCH MOre COLOrFUL ONe THeN THe averaGe. BUT gallery-style bar space. Harmonies and synchronicities continuously bubble in this IT IS Far MOre THaN THaT. cauldron of commerce and creativity. An unused space became an impromptu FraNCIS prUeTT gallery for exhibitions, but since some find little merit in visual arts, certain condi - t is like music,” founder Martin Zsarnóczky mused. “Casa De La Música tions were emplaced. is not just a place you are, but the feeling it creates. It is something that “i must be felt to be understood.” If so, it is a deeply layered feeling, indeed. “The artist must also give a small performance for the people who come,” Alija Casa De La Música is a multimodal facility, listing on its website (media) studios imparted, her smile gently mischievous. “So they get on stage, play an instrument, to let, student residences, casting facilities, an event hall and camps and minicamps share another kind of creativity, so no one gets bored.” Performance itself is on sale on site, as well as the hostel. That’s a lot, to be sure, but a recent tour of the facili - here, too. Dance classes are offered in a variety of styles. Cooperatively developed ty with Mr. Zsarnóczky and Sales Director Alija Pongracz revealed that, for good cooking, photography and other classes are also offered. Once again, synergy reason, the former hat and helmet factory is much more. blooms with the hostel and the student residence businesses. “A couple can per - haps send the children to a day program while the mother attends a dance class Casa De La Música did not start out as a hostel at all. “At first, we were not in and the father has a drink at our pubs,” Martin noted. “We are very family friend - the hostel business, but we saw there was an interest in this, a demand, so we went ly. As if to push his point, a pair of children ran out onto the deck, and proceeded ahead with it.” That demand arose from the rental of the location’s event and stu - to happily pile into a good-sized inflatable pool, their mother looking on, relaxed, dio facilities to production companies. Soon, the idea of a one-stop production as she sipped from a beer and perused a newspaper. support services venue had arisen, including living spaces and catering facilities. Even the paint is family-friendly. Stripes of colour reminiscent of architecture and The latter grew to encompass commercial kitchen rentals and also an “ancient the national flags of the Latin world rise from the floor and reach toward the sky in - foods” catering service. From the studio rental business came casting facilities, side the plaza. Outside, the stripes of colour are horizontal, and stand out among which during my visit were playing host to both VIVA Television and “X-Factor” the drab grays of nearby edifices. The effect is warm and inviting, lively. As far as the Hungary. But Casa De La Música is not simply based on a “hardcore, business-to- hostel itself goes, accommodations range from private rooms to dormitory-style business” economic model. There is creativity here in almost every centimeter of rooms with multiple bunks. Locker rooms and all of the expected accoutrements space. RoHAM, whose creative endeavors (including their self-named art maga - are available, and free WiFi is reachable from any place in the complex. The Casa zine) are well-known in Budapest, operates two separate ground-floor bar spaces. features a terrace café with an excellent menu and a breakfast special for guests, a One of the bars is a gallery of sorts, hosting an array of works which cover the sports bar with a small studio, which Martin plans to grow into a turnkey produc - walls, the furniture and even the ceiling. The other space is sleek, clean in black- tion space. A café managed by Roham is always open at the entryway, as well. and-white, a tunnel-like bar, kitted out with a small stage where artists and DJs have been known to drop in and perform. One person immediately came to mind while Asked in jest if a person might come to stay, take a dance class and be cast for Martin showed me the space, “An Australian girl, a musician, was staying over dur - a movie in the same day, Martin smiled and tilted his head. “Yes, this is entirely pos - ing her tour,” he said. “She went and got her guitar, and played all night.” She, sible,” he said. One cannot help but think it inevitable...

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