CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION 1

TRIPS ROUND THE CITY The cathedral district 4 The sights of Palencia 7 Other places of interest 9 IRELAND TRIPS ROUND THE PROVINCE Dublin The Road to Santiago 10 The Romanesque route 13 From Cerrato to UNITED KINGDOM 16 London LEISURE AND SHOWS 19 MAP OF THE PROVINCE 22 USEFUL INFORMATION 24

Paris

Ca ntab rian FRANCE Sea n a e c

O c ti n a tl A F F PALENCIA Lisbon PORTUGAL Sea ranean diter SPAIN Me

C TURESPAÑA Secretaría de Estado de Comercio y Turismo Ministerio de Economía Ceuta Text: Javier Tomé Translation: Hilary Dyke Melilla Photographs: Turespaña Picture Library Design: PH color, S.A. MOROCCO Printed by: Gaez, S.A. Rabat D. L.: M-28473-2001 NIPO: 380-01-033-6 Printed in Spain

First edition 130 Km SAN VICENTE DE LA BARQUERA 76 Km SANTANDER 61 Km Pontón 1290 1609 Escudo San Glorio CANTABRIACorconte 1011 Motorway Peña Prieta 2175 Palombera Emb. del Barriedo Espinilla 1260 Riaño 2536 Piedrasluengas ALTO Ebro ExpresswayPuebla de la Reina Casavegas de Lillo Camasobres National road Emb. de Cardaño Riaño Boca de Reinosa LOGROÑO 115 Km Primary basic network road Huérgano de Arriba San Salvador Valdecebollas Secondary basic network road 2450 de Cantamuda Vidrieros 2136 Salcedillo Local road Emb. de Emb. de Cervatos Soncillo Camporredondo Requejada Brañosera Railway Monteviejo Pozazal Besande Emb. de 1433 Cervera Barruelo 987 Carrales Road to Santiago Cervera-Ruesga Boñar de Santullán 1020 P State Hotel (Par ador) Emb. de 1993 de Salinas Monument Compuerto Matamorisca Peña P Rueda del Río Carrión Peña del Fraile Redonda Historical ruins 1835 Aviñante Escalada 2450 Emb. de Panor amic view Cantoral Barrio de Aguilar Cezura San Pedro Nautical sports centre Santibáñez Dehesa de Montejo Aguilar de Camp site de la Peña Perazancas Campóo Lastrilla Olleros de Revilla de Cozuelos Pisuerga Pomar de Ojeda Sedano Vegas Olmos de Mave Tubilla Ambasaguas 1059 de Valdavia Bascones Ojeda del Agua Villalba de Ojeda Basconcillos de Curueño Becerril del del Tozo de Guardo La Puebla Carpio de Valdavia Dehesa de Amaya 627 Romanos Lavid de Alar Buenavista Ojeda del Rey 1373 de Valdavia Sotobañado Renedo de y Priorato Valderaduey Villaluenga Villaeles Herrera de Villota del Membrillar Pisuerga 625 Villazanzo de Páramo de la Vega de Valdavia Sta. María La Nuez Valderaduey Calahorra de Arriba del Río de Boedo Saldaña R

LEÓN 45 Km Santervás Villnuño ío de la Vega de Valdavia Mansilla LEÓN Lobera 611 de las Mulas Villarrodrigo LA VALDAVIA Cea de la Vega Renedo Castrillo

a de la Vega Santillana Bahíllo de e

C de la Vega Melgar de 22 Villambroz La Serna Sotopalacios 23 R Fernamental í Osorno o lla 231 sti Villanueva a 141 Km LEÓN 45 Km Terradillos de C 120 de Argaño los Templarios Santillana Las Cabañas Carrión de de Campos de Castilla Sahagún 120 los Condes Castrotierra Villalcázar Requena Grajal de Quintanilla de de Sirga 957 Calzada de de Campos Campos la Cueza Itero de Escobar de los Molinos la Vega BURGOS Campos Lomas Frómista Melgar Cervatos de Boadilla n de Abajo la Cueza nzó Arcos y del Camino rla e 901 A u Sarracín d Añoza C Támara ra Cisneros a Amayuelas Astudillo e Villalumbroso rr ld ió a Mazuecos de Villadalvin n 620 V Valbuena de Valdeginate e

Mayorga d Pisuerga P Sta. María

Río Herrín Becerril Ribas de i

Paredes s del Campo s Dehesa de

de Campos de Campos Campos Valdespina u o

Villalón de Nava Matanza e

Becilla de p r

de Campos g

m Valderaduey a a Monzón Escuderos Villafrades l C a Cordovilla o de Campos Villajimena Rí de Campos Fuentes n la Real de Nava a 601 Cuenca C 611 Quintana de del Puente de Campos Cobos ío 610 Lerma R TIERRA DE l a Villamartín Villalobón Torquemada de Cerrato n CAMPOS Tamariz a de Campos C Boada Villanueva de Campos Torremormojón PALENCIA Valdecañas Royuela de Espinosa de Campos Magaz de Cerrato Franco de Cerrato del Campo Villamuriel N Villerías de Cerrato Villamayor Villanueva de del Alcor Venta de Baños Baltanás San Mancio San Isidro de Campos de Dueñas Baños de Cerrato V ALLE DEL Antigüedad 854 Monte Dueñas Medina Montealegre de la Torre Cerrato de Rioseco Quintanilla de 620 Tórtoles

BENAVENTE 12 Km BENAVENTE Cevico de la Villabrágima Trigueros Hérmedes Cubillas de Escala 1 : 800.000 de Cerrato Cerrato 0 10 20 30 Km Valoria la Buena 882 Castrillo San Pedro Esguevillas CARTOGRAFêA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35 de Juan Tel. 91 416 73 41 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 2000 Latarce V ALLADOLIDde Esgueva 20 Km 40 Km VALLADOLID 37 Km 10 Km INTRODUCTION

ituated in the north-central Cerrato, territories laden with Spart of the , legend and tradition. the covers a The inhabitants of the province surface area of 8,035 km2. of Palencia, numbering 179,623 Although it is timeless and bleak according to the 1998 census, in appearance, all nature of enjoy a Mediterranean-type smells, colours and histories are climate with long but tolerable blended into its soil. Not for winters and dry, hot summers. nothing did civilisations more Generally speaking, rainfall is ancient than the Roman eagles low, resulting in wooded scenery settle in these parts, made up of in the north and scrubland in the three clearly-distinguished rest of the province. geographical units: the Sitting on the vast plain of Tierra mountainous region, of awe- de Campos, on the banks of the inspiring panoramic beauty with River Carrión, the city of 1 its steep, rough outline; the Palencia now has a population of moorland, where ruggedness 79,745. This strategic enclave of changes into gently rolling rail and road communications, plains; and lastly, the sheer just 240 km from Madrid, is the flatness of Tierra de Campos and capital of a province which,

Scenery. Vidrieros importance as a political centre, playing a decisive role in the layout of Castile. The reign of Alfonso VIII would be fundamental in the attainment of the greatest glories of mediaeval Palencia. Chosen as a place of residence for royalty, it was here that the country's first university River Carrión. Carrión de los Condes was founded in 1208. Joining the rebellion of the comuneros (followers of the since 1983, has formed part of party defending the communities the Autonomous Community of of Castile), Palencia's Tierra de Castile and León, the largest Campos would provide the region in Europe. A lively city setting for the conflict, which which has travelled far in time, was finally stamped out by receiving a heritage of old central power. From then on, the stones, engravings and paintings, area would lapse into a period Palencia is like a silent epic tale characterised by a degree of of art and culture. social submissiveness, in which its 2 people concentrated on their usual farming and cattle-breeding Historical background activities. It was hoped to alleviate this situation with the alencia's history goes back to opening of the Castile Canal, PPthe days when the the purpose of which was to link Celtiberian tribe known as the the area with the coast for the Vacceos settled there. Included in export of Castilian produce. the province of Tarraconensis However, modernity and the afterthe inrush of the imperial true economic boom would not legions, it was the Romans who arrive until the twentieth century chose what was then called was well under way. Pallantia as the regional capital. The motto on the city's coat of With the arrival of Theodoric II arms reads: Palencia, arms and in 457 A.D., the presence of the science, an outright declaration brought prosperity to of principles for this very special the area and the Gothic Fields treasure, a key reference in became Spain's main supplier of Spanish history. grain in that period. Having been reconquered by the Christians after the short stay of the Arab forces, the city gained Tierra de Campos TRIPS ROUND THE CITY

As times of admission to cathedral. A number of remains buildings of cultural interest are belonging to both constructions subject to seasonal variations, can still be seen in what is now visitors are advised to enquire the Crypt of San Antolín. at the museums or appropriate The cathedral as we know it tourist office once they are in today was commenced in 1321 the area. and, among its countless treasures, we might mention the magnificent high altarpiece with THE ATHEDRAL C sculptures by Felipe Vigarny and DISTRICT paintings by Juan de Flandes, true masterpieces of the Castilian alencia's roots are best Renaissance. The retrochoir, PPreflected in Las Puentecillas lavishly decorated in the style of (1), a bridge of Roman origin the period of Isabel II, was built which was rebuilt in 1525. The by Juan de Ruesga. Also of bridge looks across to the particular note is the railing, with capital's most characteristic its medallions and coats of arms, 4 monument, the cathedral (2). which runs along the front of the Rightly called the unknown choir. It was made by Gaspar beauty, it houses a great variety Rodríguez in 1571. As for the of artistic works within its majestic chapels, Capilla del Sagrario structure, which has the form of a contains the polychrome tomb of Latin cross and three naves. It Doña Urraca de Navarra and a was erected on a Visigothic altarpiece. At the which, according to cathedral museum, superb tradition, guarded the remains of examples of sacred art are to be San Antolín, the city's patron found, including the San saint, and on the primitive, eleventh-century, Romanesque Cathedral Sebastián by El Greco, the collection of Flemish tapestries donated by Bishop Fonseca, along with the monstrance of the Corpus, carved by Juan de Benavente in the sixteenth century, and its baroque canopy, 5 popularly known as the triumphant chariot. Beside the cathedral stands the Church of Las Agustinas Recoletas (3), a seventeenth- century house of worship with a fine altarpiece portraying the Convent of San Pablo expectant state of Mary. Continuing round the cathedral gallery with works by different district, we see the Hospital of artists from the fourteenth to the San Bernabé (4), built as a seventeenth centuries. stately home in the eleventh Passing by the Church of Santa century. At Palacio Episcopal (5) Marina (6), an old mediaeval or bishop's palace, a well- temple which was renovated at a balanced neoclassic building, it later date, we approach one of is worth visiting the rooms of the the city's most significant Museo Diocesano or Diocesan buildings: the Convent of San Museum to admire the Pablo (7). It was once the seat of extraordinary collection of storied the Castilian Courts, which met fonts, the displays of gold and in the retreat founded by Santo silverware and a select art Domingo de Guzmán in the thirteenth century. On the outside, Further along, we see the the salient feature is the apse, graceful contours of the baroque decorated with large Renaissance Palace of the Aguado-Pardo windows, whilst the interior boasts (10), its frontispiece enhanced by exquisite funereal monuments such a flat arch while the balcony as that of the Marquis and bears the time-honoured coats of Marchioness of Poza and the arms of nobility. We end the trip tomb of Dean Zapata, with the at the Museo Díaz-Caneja (11), great polychrome relief of the where we can see part of the Pietà. Close by, in the church of work of the first-class Palencia the Convent of La Piedad (8), the landscape painter after whom the Rococo altarpiece should not be museum is named. missed. As we walk past the popular station gardens on the left, we Plaza de la Inmaculada reach Plaza de León, the point 979 70 13 47 where the capital's high street, Open to the public: Mondays to Calle Mayor, begins. It is on this Saturdays, 10.30 to 13.30 and central, pedestrian thoroughfare 16.00 to 18.30. Sundays and that the daily life of the city's holidays, 10.30 to 1.30 inhabitants goes on at an easy July and August, 10.30 to 6 pace in an ambience of 13.30 and 16.30 to 19.30 commercial activity. First to Admission to the cathedral appear on this artery, which is museum by guided tours replete with emblematic colonnades and outstanding Museo Diocesano de Arte buildings, is the Convent of Las Palacio Episcopal Agustinas Canónigas (9), erected Calle General Mola, 34 in the early seventeenth century. 979 74 59 00 Open to the public: Tours from Mondays to Saturdays at 11.30, 12.30 and 17.00

Museo Díaz-Caneja Calle Lope de Vega, 2 979 74 73 92 Open to the public: Tuesdays to Saturdays, 10.00 to 13.30 and 19.00 to 21.30. Sundays and holidays, 12.00 to 14.00 Closed on Mondays

Calle Mayor THE S IGHTS OF P ALENCIA

ormerly the place for fiestas The visitor is recommended to FFand markets, Plaza Mayor is enter the building to see the noted for its monument in stone coffered ceilings and the grave 7 and bronze by Victorio Macho, of Don Alonso Martínez. As we dedicated to Alonso Berruguete. leave behind the Mercado de The prominent feature of the Abastos (15) or food hall, an square, whose origins date back eloquent instance of the to the seventeenth century, is the architecture of iron and glass, our Ayuntamiento (12) or City Hall, a nineteenth-century neoclassic Convent of San Francisco building looking out onto the characteristic rows of symmetrical colonnades. At the back stands the church, Iglesia de la Soledad (13), where there is an interesting baroque chapel with plasterwork. The most remarkable building in the area is the Convent of San Francisco (14), which was founded in 1247 and played a role of great relevance in the Palencia of the Middle Ages. Its silhouette makes for a curious sight on account of the steeple. eyes are met by the fine-looking Neo-Renaissance building which houses the Diputación Provincial (16) or Provincial Council, planned by Jerónimo Arroyo (1906-1914). Moving on, the Church of Santa Clara (17) forms part of the retreat for coenobites erected in 1378 under the patronage of Enrique II. Within the walls of the temple, which was chosen as the pantheon for the Admirals of Castile, there is an impressive reclining Christ, the source of Church of San Miguel countless legends. Just opposite is the theatre, Teatro Principal (18), opened in the first half of the As we go along in the direction nineteenth century. Next comes of the River Carrión, the the Church of San Lázaro (19) in Plateresque facade of the the square of the same name. The Convent of San Bernardo (20) 8 outer walls of the church, which, comes into view. Following our according to legend, occupies the route, we arrive at the Church of site where the Cid Campeador San Miguel (21), whose slender built an age-old leper hospital, are edged with the coats of arms of the Castilla family.

Headquarters of the Provincial Council Gothic tower, complete with OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST fretted windows, is one of the city's main symbols. Legend has here are other spots worth it that it was in this church, TTvisiting beyond the limits of the crowned with battlements city centre, such as the park, Parque reminiscent of a fortress, that the Isla Dos Aguas, a patch of green Cid wedded Doña Jimena. A situated in the middle of the River superb, fourteenth-century crucifix Carrión. The park features two lakes, is to be admired in the chancel. a range of amusement facilities and Nearby is the church, Iglesia de a large sports centre. Taking the la Compañía (22), next to the C-611 road out of the city, we drive Seminario Diocesano or along for a bare seven km to find the Diocesan Seminary. The wood imposing outline of the Castle of carving of the patron saint of looming Palencia, Nuestra Señora de la before us. A little further along the Calle or La Morenilla, is kept in same road stands the Castle of the tabernacle. Monzón de Campos, which has Our tour comes to an end at been completely renovated and Casa del Cordón (23) (lit. the converted into a comfortable hotel; house with the cord), a sixteenth- and then, we see the colossal Cristo century civil monument which del Otero, holding sway over the city owes its name to the fact that an from its hillock, or otero; hence its 9 unusual cord was sculpted in name. With a height of 21 m, the stone on the frontispiece. Inside sculpture, executed by Victorio the building are the rooms of the Macho in 1930, has become museum, Museo de Palencia, Palencia's own spiritual guide and containing reminders of all the stone icon. In the hermitage situated civilisations that have left their at the statue's feet, we can visit a mark on Palencia's soil. museum dedicated to the artist, a Palencia man himself. Museo de Palencia ( 979 749 833) Plaza del Cordón, 1 979 75 23 28 Open to the public:Tuesdays to Saturdays, 10.00 to 14.00 and 16.30 to 20.00 (October to April); 17.00 to 20.30 (May to September). Sundays and holidays, 10.00 to 14.00

Cristo del Otero TRIPS ROUND THE PROVINCE

THE ROAD TO SANTIAGO (125 Km) would set foot on Palencia soil at . Here, we should pause to view the Church eaving the capital along of San Pedro, noted for its 10 the C-617 road, we make thirteenth-century facade, and the LL our first stop at Villajimena characteristic hermitage, Ermita to admire the church and the de la Piedad. At Boadilla del altarpiece by Nicholas of Camino, a jurisdictional Holland. Not far away, on the boundary stone from the fifteenth Castellar hill, a Visigothic chapel, century may still be seen today. complete with burial ground, has Another gem awaits us in the been discovered. In Astudillo, the church, Iglesia de la Asunción, in visitor should go to the Church of Santa Eugenia, where he will find a magnificent altarpiece and a collection of Roman discovered in the surrounding area; not forgetting the Pedro I Palace-Museum, a handsome Mudéjar ensemble, where religious pieces, coins and documents are on display. The pilgrims who made their way along the Road to Santiago

Jurisdictional boundary stone. Romanesque, is dedicated. Apart from the wonders to be seen in the interior, such as the thirteenth- century Virgen de las Cántigas, the polychrome stone tombs of Infante Don Felipe and his wife, along with the superb Spanish- Flemish altarpiece dated ca. Church of San Martín. Frómista 1500, the visitor will be struck by the double frieze on the the form of the font, which is frontispiece. In the upper part, a supported by 12 columns, not to Pantocrator is the central figure, mention the fine altarpieces. while the Annunciation and the Frómista, the capital of Palencia Epiphany appear lower down. Romanesque, is an absolute must The whole thing is set beneath a on our itinerary. Churches such series of perfect, castellated as San Pedro and Santa María arches. are first on our sightseeing list, Few towns in Palencia can boast together with the hermitage, of the historical relevance of Ermita de Santiago, with its Carrión de los Condes, whose image of Virgen del Otero. But most representative monument is the real treasure of what is the Church of Santiago, noted 11 known as the miracle town is to for its impressive Pantocrator. be found in the Church of San Also worth mentioning is the Martín, a work of art conceived frieze at the Church of Santa as an image. Founded in 1035, María del Camino, embellished the church is particularly striking with an Adoration of the Magi. because of its purity of line and The museum belonging to the the perfect balance between Monastery of Santa Clara has architectural considerations and displays of sculptures and the exuberant decoration, all ornaments, along with a Pietà by resulting in a splendid blend of Gregorio Fernández. On the light, colours and strokes. Villalcázar de Sirga owes part of its renown to the miracles attributed by the pilgrims to the image of Santa María la Blanca, to whom the monumental thirteenth-century temple, known as the Sistine Chapel of Ogival

Altarpiece, Santa María la Blanca. Villalcázar de Sirga Museo Palacio de Pedro I Convento de Santa Clara Astudillo. 979 82 21 34 Open to the public: Tuesdays to Fridays, 11.00 to 13.00 and 17.00 to 19.00. Saturdays and Sundays, 11.00 to 13.00 and 16.30 to 18.30. Closed on Mondays

Monasterio de Santa Clara Monastery of San Zoilo. Carrión de los Condes Carrión de los Condes 979 88 01 34 Open to the public: Summer, outskirts of the town stands the 10.30 to 14.00 and 16.30 to Monastery of San Zoilo, 20.00. Closed on Mondays commenced in the tenth century. Of particular interest is the Villa Romana de Quintanilla de la Renaissance cloister, a true Cueza. 979 88 30 42 (public) marvel of ornamentation and Open to the public: Summer, technique created by Juan de 10.00 to 13.30 and 16.30 to . 20.00.Winter, 10.30 to 13.30 12 Carrying on along the C-620, a and 16.00 to 18.00 route trodden for centuries by the Closed on Mondays and from steps of pilgrims on their way to December 22-23 to January 22-23 Santiago, we reach Quintanilla de la Cueza and, close by, a Museo de la Villa de La Roman villa containing Olmeda. Plaza de San Pedro, hippocausta, or heated rooms, Saldaña. 649 75 64 84 the forerunners of the Castilian Open to the public: Summer, stoves. In Terradillos de los 10.00 to 13.30 and 16.30 to Templarios, the former site of the 20.00. Winter, 10.30 to 13.30 Templars' convent-house, we take and 16.00 to 18.00 the C-624 to Saldaña. Closed on Mondays and from Overflowing with architectural December 22-23 to January 22-23 remains from the area, the Roman villa. Quintanilla de la Cueza Church of San Pedro has been made into the monographic museum of Villa de La Olmeda, a third-century aristocratic Roman mansion from which a formidable collection of mosaics with figurative and vegetable elements has been salvaged. THE ROMANESQUE ROUTE (150 Km)

he province of Palencia, above all TT in the northern area, is home to the largest collection of Romanesque monuments throughout Europe. We shall thus begin our tour at the museum-city of , a town which takes us back in time, where nothing is artificial. It is overlooked by the twelfth-century castle built on the rocks of Peña Aguilón. One of the most evocative sights is the among the oldest in Spain. colonnaded square where the Exquisitely restored, the church Collegiate Church of San Miguel houses a museum where a rich 13 is situated. Attached to this and varied collection of the fourteenth-century house of Romanesque is on show. worship is a museum where the Turning off to the left, we take the parish treasure, with gold and P-212 road to Cervera de silverware, paintings and works Pisuerga, a town renowned for in ivory, is exhibited. No less its elegance and coats of arms significant is the Monastery of and its square enhanced by Santa María La Real, a stone columns: altogether an prepossessing instance of the Proto-Gothic considered to be Monastery of Santa María la Real. Aguilar de Campoo incomparable urban setting. The sixteenth-century boundary stone Church of Santa María is a and the church, erected in 1181 slender Gothic work from the by Countess Doña Elvira. The sixteenth century, where the steeple is one of the finest Funeral Chapel of Santa Ana is instances of highland worthy of special attention. Romanesque. Our route continues Equipped with a modern state upwards amid woods of beech hotel or , Cervera is the and oak, taking us to the gateway to the Protected Area of mountain pass of Fuentes Carrionas, where the Piedrasluengas, where the lands serene landscape is speckled of Liébana are met. An with mountain lakes and unforgettable view may be towering peaks. enjoyed from the pass, with the Taking the C-627 to Potes, we massive Peña Labra (2,018 m) to make our way along a winding the right. road affording spectacular views We must now retrace our steps while, as we look to the left, we along the C-627 and, as we pass the Requejada Reservoir, an leave Cervera behind, ecological reserve inhabited by Perazancas, another of the a vast wealth of aquatic birds area's quaint towns, appears to and animals. We carry on past the south. The visitor will be 14 the Pernía Valley until we come drawn immediately to the to the picturesque town of San Hermitage of San Pelayo, an Salvador de Cantamuda, the astonishing example of former capital of this, the Lombardic Romanesque. He dominion of the bishops of should also take a close look at Palencia. We must not miss the the portico on Mozarabic capitals and the allegorical paintings on the walls. In the Fuentes Carrionas part of the mediaeval walls. Stately-looking mansions bear witness to past glory, as indeed does the seventeenth-century hermitage, Ermita de Nuestra Señora de la Piedad, decorated with murals. The busy town of marked the starting point of the Hermitage of San Pelayo. Perazancas Castile Canal, a project aimed at forming a link between these open spaces and the coast. immediate proximity of Olmos de comes Ojeda, on a private estate, to the fore once more in Becerril stands the church belonging to del Carpio, with constructions of what was once the Monastery of interest scattered across the Santa Eufemia, the retreat of town's three districts. A turn-off daughters and widows of kings. leads us to the town of Mave, Erected on a Mozarabic where the monastery, Monasterio building, of which there are still de Santa María, founded in some remains, the church is 1208, is considered to be one highly representative of the of Palencia's major Ogival 15 Romanesque house of worship. Romanesque monuments. Of the The visitor should also find the original construction, the church, time to take an enjoyable walk with three naves ending in semi- round the museum. circular apses, is still standing. ( 979 18 72 31) We finish our trip at Olleros de Back on the C-611 road, the Pisuerga, a stone's throw away next place of interest is Herrera from our point of departure. We de Pisuerga. The primitive Camala of the Vacceos has been the abode of a varied range of cultures, and played a relevant role in Roman times, when it was the settlement of the Legio IV Macedonica. A burial ground from the days of the Visigoths is still in existence today, while we are reminded of the imperial era of Charles V by a sixteenth- century arch which once formed

Rock church. Olleros de Pisuerga FROM CERRATO TO TIERRA DE CAMPOS (225 Km)

ust a short distance away from the capital, we take the Scenery. Cerrato JJC-620 road as we set off on our trip to the region of Cerrato. In Torquemada, we shall see the must not fail to visit the Church of Santa Eulalia, which fascinating, tenth-century rock received the remains of Philip the church, set in wonderful scenery Fair when his wife accompanied bespattered with archaeological him on his final journey. Next, in remains; a worthy emblem , the Church indeed, where nature is of San Esteban has a fine combined with a wide range of collection of Castilian rural art. In human and cultural experiences. Palenzuela, once the feudal estate of the Admirals of Castile, 16 Museo de San Miguel. Plaza de not all the monuments have España. Aguilar de Campoo survived to the present day. 979 12 26 88 Nevertheless, it is still possible to Open to the public: 10.30 to visit the Church of San Juan, the 13.30 and 17.00 to 20.00 custodian of most of the town's treasures; and also the gates Museo del Románico remaining from the wall. Monasterio de Santa María Moving southwards, we reach La Real. Aguilar de Campoo Baltanás, the capital of this 979 12 50 00 austere region. The majestic Open to the public: Summer Church of San Millán is of (June to September), 10.30 to special interest on account of the 14.00 and 16.30 to 20.00 filigreed choir, the high altarpiece Winter (October to May), and a number of tombs of Gothic Tuesdays to Thursdays, design. Continuing along the 16.00 to 19.00 C-619, on the left-hand side, we Weekends and holidays: 10.30 can see the remains of the once to 14.00 and 16.30 to 19.30 magnificent Monastery of San Closed on Mondays Pelayo, just by Cevico Navero. However, our destination is Hérmedes de Cerrato, where we stop to visit the Mozarabic hermitage, Ermita de la Virgen de la Era, and admire the horseshoe arch and the font, the oldest religious building carved out of a capital. remaining intact in Spain. Its Towards the west, Cevico de la basilica-like structure exudes Torre appears on the horizon, quality and solid, spiritual where the church makes for a arguments, further reflected in the pretty picture with its four-sided votive tablet above the triumphal tower. Soon, we find ourselves in arch. 17 Baños de Cerrato, a mere 12 Now on the C-620 road, a few km from Palencia. Here, we kilometres south of the major direct our steps towards the railway junction, Venta de famous Visigothic Church of San Baños, we enter Dueñas, which Juan Bautista, founded in 661 by is like an added portico to Recesvinto and considered to be Palencia's capital. Once the seat of kings and a nest of conspiring nobles, here, the visitor can still Church of San Juan de Baños. Baños de Cerrato Church of Santa María. Dueñas

sense the aroma of the authentic, seventeenth-century Collegiate completely unadorned. The Church of San Miguel, Church of Santa María has a abounding in artistic treasures. To first-rate altarpiece, in addition to the north lies Torremormojón, Proto-Gothic windows. In the where the church boasts a small parish museum, an triptych attributed to Juan de astonishing Ecce Homo by Diego Flandes. Next, having taken the 18 Siloé is on display. Close by C-610, we shall go to Paredes Dueñas is the Cistercian de Nava, the birthplace of Monastery of the Trappists, Alonso and Pedro Berruguete whose history goes far back in and also of poet Jorge time. Attached to the retreat for Manrique. The Church of Santa coenobites, the Romanesque Eulalia is notable for its high church, which was renovated in altarpiece and curious the nineteenth century, is of a Romanesque tower, together with pureness which is quite stunning. Speeding on our way, we start to savour the transparent atmosphere of Tierra de Campos. The castle at Ampudia is one of the most distinguished military monuments to have survived the passage of time since the Middle Ages. Also standing proud and grand is the

Church of Santa Eulalia. the parish museum, where works LEISURE AND by leading Golden Age Castilian artists are on show. SHOWS On our way back to the capital along the C-613, it is worth Gastronomy and handicrafts making one last stop at . Of its churches, the alencia's autochthonous most outstanding is Santa PPproduce forms an inherent Eugenia, designed by Gil de part of its cuisine. Tierra de Hontañón. At the modern museum Campos is dotted with dovecotes of the Church of Santa María, which provide the raw materials there is an exhibition of gold and for traditional dishes like stewed silverware, sacred ornaments and pigeon. On the meat-side, the tableaux by Pedro Berruguete star of the show is roast lamb and Juan de Juni. suckling, which should be served golden brown on the outside and Museo de Santa Eulalia juicy on the inside. Plaza de España, s/n The region's most renowned Paredes de Nava speciality is vegetable 979 83 04 69 hotchpotch, enriched with Open to the public: Mondays to delicious veal from mountain-bred Fridays, please enquire. calves and, of course, the greens 19 Saturdays, 11.00 to 13.00 that are grown in the rich Sundays, 17.00 to 19.00 lowland areas. Other culinary Holidays, 11.00 to 12.30 and delights for which the region is 17.00 to 19.00 known include beans from Saldaña and the flavoursome Museo de Santa María Torquemada peppers; in a word, Becerril de Campos typical winter food, like the 979 83 33 68 wholesome chick pea stew, of Open to the public: Mondays to which there are several versions. Fridays, 11.30 to 13.30 and Snails and crayfish are used as 17.00 to 20.00 basic ingredients at many Weekends and holidays, 10.30 to 13.30 and 17.00 to 20.00 Fairs and fiestas

n the lands of Castile, IIhospitality is looked on as an obligation, reflected in the variety of pilgrimages, passacaglia, bullfights and popular festivities awaiting the visitor. The calendar of events begins on January 1 with the Baptism of the Baby Jesus in the province's capital, when, amongst other things, popular festivities, just as the sweets are thrown from the ancestral rite of slaughtering the balcony of the parish house. pig produces tasty, nutritional Another deep-rooted tradition is delicacies. Then, to finish, what the Pilgrimage of San Toribio, better than a piece of delectable which takes place in mid-April. sheep's cheese, accompanied by After a procession to the Cristo any of the local confectioners' del Otero, the municipal specialities, such as leche frita (a authorities "stone" the participants dessert made of milk thickened with bread and cheese. 20 with flour, coated with egg and Easter Week in Palencia, fried), sweetmeats from Osorno declared as being of regional or biscuits from Aguilar de touristic interest, is one of the Campoo, all washed down with most traditional to be found rosé wine from Dueñas, a hive of throughout the autonomous culture and activity. community. A number of sober Although handicrafts have been yet vivid processions, enhanced overtaken by the new with statues carved by the best technologies, there are still image-makers, wend their way several important tanneries at through the city centre. In Villarramiel and Paredes de Frómista, on the Sunday Nava, specialising in the production of shoes and leather garments. However, the province is famous above all for the Palencia blankets, made from the wool of the churra sheep, perfect for keeping out the cold in the bleak winter months.

Easter Week in Palencia following Easter Sunday, there is a civic parade known as El Olé, held in honour of San Telmo, the patron saint of sailors. When winter arrives, there is one pilgrimage after another, all connected with the saint or the virgin of each particular town or village. The Festival of the Exaltation of the Crayfish, held at Canoeing. River Pisuerga on the first Sunday in August, is considered to be of regional touristic interest. adventure sports or rural tourism, The Descent of the River pure and simple. Here, in the Pisuerga, a well-known canoeing midst of fairy-tale scenery, competition which starts off at mountaineers conquer Alar del Rey, is of a more breathtaking, mythical peaks, international scope. some of which have an altitude of To complete this outline of the almost 2,500 m. recreational activities available, To see the very best of the where memory and future come province, we should go to face to face, the capital steps Fuentes Carrionas, where the 21 back into the limelight every reserves and rivers are perfect for September 2 with the Fiestas de practising the peaceable sport of San Antolín, the patron saint of fishing. The reservoirs at Palencia. It is a time of Camporredondo and merrymaking and good clean Compuerto, bursting with natural fun, when old traditions take over charm, provide a splendid setting in a city bubbling with life. for yachting, windsurfing and canoeing, all of which are Sports extremely popular in the area. Hunters, cycling tourists and or sports-lovers, there is a backpackers will also be suited, FFwide range of possibilities at as there is room for everybody in different places all over the this optimum geographical province. Not in vain is Palencia universe. When all is said and renowned for its countless nature done, the aim is none other than spots, ideal for enjoying the sun to enjoy the gratifying experience and sailing in a landscape of of being close to nature. rivers and lakes and millenarian forests. There is a long list of alternatives for those keen on USEFUL INFORMATION Frómista International dialling code: 34 Paseo Central 979 81 01 80 TURESPAÑA tourist information Herrera de Pisuerga service 901 300 600 Paseo de los Tilos, 1 www.tourspain.es 979 14 00 96 Castile and León Tourist Information STATE HOTELS (PARADORES) 902 203 030 Booking Office www.jcyl.es/turismo Calle Requena, 3 Federation of Tourism 28013 Madrid Initiative Centres of 91 516 66 66 Castile and León fax 91 516 66 57 983 35 78 99 www.parador.es fax 983 35 79 99 e-mail: [email protected] Parador de TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES Carretera de Resoba, km. 2,5 Tourism Promotion Office of 997 87 00 75 Castile and León in Madrid Calle Pensamiento, 27. Madrid fax 979 87 01 05 91 571 46 46 e-mail: [email protected] fax 91 571 44 38 TRANSPORT 24 Provincial Tourist Board Palencia has good Plaza Abilio Calderón, s/n communications with Madrid by Palencia expressway and motorway. It also 979 71 51 00 has excellent railway fax 979 71 51 31 connections: RENFE, Information www.dip-palencia.es and Booking Office, 902 24 02 02 www.renfe.es. Another option is Office of the Regional to fly to Airport, Government of Valladolid, just 47 km away by Castile and León expressway. Calle Mayor, 105. Palencia (Airport: 983 41 54 00 979 74 00 68 SERVIBERIA 902 400 500 Aguilar de Campoo www.iberia.com) Plaza España, 15 GENERAL INFORMATION 979 12 50 00 Bus station 979 74 32 22 Carrión de los Condes Taxi 979 74 39 19 Casa de Cultura National police 091 979 88 09 32 Municipal police 092 Cervera de Pisuerga Hospital emergencies Calle San Roque, 1 979 74 40 11 979 87 04 50 Travellers‘ Care Centre www.mfir.com/monpalentina 979 74 30 32 SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION STREET CARRIÓN DE LOS CONDES 40 Km OFFICES ABROAD PLAN P CANADA. Toronto SANTANDER 210 Km aseo o C r A te TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN LL O C E a 2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402 lle D . PALENCIA P TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2 Ve l lázquez e e CATHEDRAL DISTRICT Calle A. Santamaría d la y 1416/ 961 31 31. Fax 1416/ 961 19 92 Ca o C lle d a a l e

le a d M n S C e-mail: [email protected] la n 1.- Las Puentecillas u il IM r nt a a illo l r a Ó ca i S le lan GREAT BRITAIN. London

. N B M los M Victorio le R A 2.- Cathedral al Paseo da E V SPANISH TOURIST OFFICE C ri D E lo AN s F T N o Parque Público N I c A D i Manchester Square, 22-23 3.- Church of Las Agustinas S t Calle A Huertas del Obispo La e F ó D s M ll r on Plaza a a G E ja C LONDON W1M 5AP s n P Bernal D c C Recoletas a i a O s ola s ll 44207/ 486 80 77. Fax 44207/ 486 80 34 to c e G M o DE re M D a E 4.- Hospital of San Bernabé s r e-mail: [email protected] ía 6 C. H M d erma P e JAPAN. Tokyo n 8 acho os M iz 5.- Bishop's Palace adr Plaza de a P id N 5 r C a A r d San Pablo I D o a B TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN E NI l ill 7 le a R T E 6.- Church of Santa Marina V A O A l e S Daini Toranomon Denki Bldg.4F b s I Parque a L C e qu A Is o I C. Regimiento Villarobledo s A 7.- Convent of San Pablo o p 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku. TOKIO-105 . B l

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Bena a Plaza San 17 VENIDA vente Plaza n B A Miguel Calle Becerro u Europa u Miami. TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN rg g o ASTUDILLO 29 Km de Bengoa s a 22.- Church of la Compañía

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L a X ado v EMBASSIES IN MADRID L o on L d A C. s R l d C . on Ma A Alf alle

A C S o le e al C r T y C Canada: Nuñez de Balboa, 35 Car park R P I e I I N L C V s Plaza A . Bo Calle ndad Riz E Plaza 91 431 43 00. Fax 91 431 23 67 e arzu Lima e R l la Railway station

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K C adilla 7 lle P Bus station A LEÓN Plaza VENIDA Plaza de Ca 91 319 02 00. Fax 91 308 10 33

L J DE Pío XII OSÉ San Fermín C E ANT a I CE ONIO 0 100 200 300 m PON C t Japan: Serrano, 109 Police alle Co ó R DA manda NI Jardines nte V l E elloso i

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TURESPAÑA GENERAL DETURISMO SECRETARÍA Y TURISMO ESTADO DECOMERCIO SECRETARÍA DE Spain Palencia