IN-HOUSE PUBLICATION OF THE LARGEST DIAMOND MINING COMPANY
SEPTEMBER 2018 CARATS ON THE What is the difference between customers’ profiles in China and the USA? 500ALROSA social responsibility projects
Head of ALROSA SERGEY MATTER OF IVANOV: TECHNIQUE “We change New player in response to new in the diamond challenges” detection market TRIUMPH OF COLOUR Fancy colour rough and polished diamonds win the market Editorial note
STEPAN PISAKHOV, A XX CENTURY WRITER AND ARTIST FROM THE ARKHANGELSK REGION, which is world-famous for coloured diamonds minable there, in his fairytale “Frozen songs” (Morozheny pesni) tells how semiprecious stones came out of songs. The local people pronounced words in the freezing cold; the words remained frozen till thawing weather, and when it got warmer they thawed and sang again. “We have fences shored with strong words, and old men and women lean on warmly said words.” And delightful laces shining like diamonds were resulted from songs of maidens and women. Houses were SMART HELPER FOR PICKING decorated with these diamond laces; and venturers brought the frozen diamond songs to other countries. NATURAL DIAMONDS JEWELRY This issue of the magazine is dedicated to the way in which PORTABLE DIAMOND DETECTOR the gems of unique hues appear by quaint plan of nature, INTELLIGENT AND USERFRIENDLY about special aspects and possibilities of fancy colour diamonds market, and ALROSA colour gems mining and faceting. We also tell about selling of the most valuable diamond of the Company, about new development in diamond origin detection, about the • polished natural diamonds; most outstanding social responsibility projects of ALROSA. • enhanced/treated polished natural diamonds; For additional information • non-diamond imitations/simulants about the device please call (moissanite, cubic zirconia, etc.); +7 (495) 740-99-17 • polished synthetic/lab-created diamonds info@alrosa-inspector.com grown using HPHT or CVD methods www.alrosa-inspector.com 12 Contents
60 Project 86 That’s a thing! – How’s your mood? LIFESTYLE Eternal glory – Cheer! The Cannes Film Festival Red Carpet is a symbol of Cheer Festival gets traditional and presents 74 Charity success and fashion runway, the best photograph unforgettable emotions to people of Yakutia background and a perfect reason to appear in front of Football therapy cameras in all glory How the mentees of Children’s Charitable Funds and IN FOCUS one more particular fan came to see matches of FIFA 92 Trends World Cup 2018™ Hit the style 60 66 Earth, fire, water 76 Event Diamond jewelry is not suitable only for special events Adventurism, desire to succeed and commitment but also it is appropriate for casual use. Through the to own dreams unite them to follow their dreams. Fan diamonds example of celebrities’ images we demonstrate how to make a fashion sport-chic style look 42 Opening Innokenty, Dmitry and Ekaterina get started a new During FIFA World Cup 2018™ ALROSA announced Reaching the land of spices column in our magazine about young employees of a fan competition: the aim was to invent a football name ALROSA for a large diamond mined in Yakutia and jewellery ALROSA opened representative office in India, the leader state of the polished diamond production. The new office 78 Stories of the Company is situated in Mumbai Facets of football diamonds 66 How famous players show their spirits and generosity 46 Research where stadium spotlights don’t shine Carats on the map 10 84 Accessories ALROSA in cooperation with GfK Company profiled an average customer in the USA and China jewelry Manly feature 04 In detail market COMPANY Diamonds glitter still excites, fascinates and attracts World champion the great. And famous football players are not the exception ALROSA group is the leader of the world diamond TERRITORY mining 30 Interview 50 Reputation 06 News Sergey Ivanov: “We change in response to new challenges” Social status SPECIAL ALROSA group, № 1 in the world diamond mining is PROJECT an absolute leader of the sector in social investment volume 36 Technologies 10 Life in a new colour 56 Story 12 Personality tints Test work Magic sandbox, How ALROSA Diamond Inspector, a diamond 14 Resolving a diamond into Owl-nanny, pearl water atoms detection device works 76 and other rehabilitation 18 A tricky client wonders 24 Complicated customer 40 Important In March 2018, Rehabilitation Center for children with a sensory impairment, mental and musculoskeletal 26 Coloured investment A matter of 60 minutes disorders, was opened in Yakutsk. Our correspondent visited the Center to find out more about small 28 7 sensations Appointments patients and people who help them 86
Editorial Office address: 9, bld.10, Signed For free distribution ALROSA in-house publication Nyzhnyaya Syromyatcheskaya str., 105120, to print: Moscow 03.09.2018 Phone: (495) 640-08-38; (495) 640-08-39 On-line version is Promotional booklet Work on the issue: Magazine designed with the Date available on the Eugenia Kozenko, Pavel Prytkov, Yana Yushina participation of PH “MediaLine” Printed in accordance with the materials provided in of release: website Editorial Office address: 1, bld. 24, Head editor: Polina V.Tiutina www.medialine-pressa.ru the Mediacolor printing office 11.09.2018 www.alrosa.ru Ozerkovskaya Emb., 115184, Moscow Printing Office address: bld.28, Volnaya str., Phone: +7 (903) 265-36-00 Фото на обложке: Nikita Barey Director General: Maxim Shlegel Moscow Project manager: Yana Tashkeeva
2 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 3 INСПОРТ DETAIL WORLD CHAMPION ALROSA GROUP – ALROSA GROUP’S WORLD LEADER SHARE IN THE E IN DIAMOND MINING GLOBAL DIAMOND LUT REC 7% 1,172 SODiamond output OR billion carats PRODUCTION B D 7% A 13% 33% VOLUME OF DEPOSITS’ RESERVES 2 OWNED BY THE ALROSA GROUP AS OF JANUARY 1, 2018, ACCORDING TO THE 39.6 STATE RESERVES COMMITTEE 2017 2016 million carats* SHARE IN THE TOTAL AIKHAL MINING ALROSA GROUP’S NYURBA MINING AND PROCESSING DIVISION PRODUCTION AND PROCESSING DIVISION Nyurbinsky and Botuobinsky pipes, two Yubileinaya, Komsomolskaya and Aikhal pipes (IN CARATS) same-name placer deposits Diamond output 19% Diamond output 6.4% 13.0 million carats 13.5% 7.7 million 6.8 million carats carats 12.2 million carats 18% 10% 51.9 carat crystal was mined at the A diamond from the Yubileinaya kimberlite pipe Aikhal Mining and Udachny Mining and Almazy Anabara Nyurbinsky kimberlite pipe early in this where the most of ALROSA’s large diamonds year. The age of the Nyurbinsky pipe – an catch are mined. 129.9 carat transparent crystal with Processing Division Processing Division Severalmaz catch ancient diamondiferous volcano – exceeds a yellowish tinge, mined in September 2017. 360 million years, the diamond itself was 2017 Mirny Mining and Nyurba Mining and formed much earlier. * The largest diamondhistory. modern company’s the output in Processing Division Processing Division MIRNY MINING UDACHNY MINING AND PROCESSING DIVISION AND PROCESSING DIVISION SEVERALMAZ ALMAZY ANABARA Mir and International kimberlite pipes, three placer Udachnaya and Zarnitsa pipes, Zapolyarny open-pit mine Arkhangelskaya and Karpinskogo-1 pipes deposits, one technogenic deposit of the Verkhne-Munskoe kimberlite field, one placer deposit
Diamond output Diamond output Diamond output Diamond output 7.4% 7.2 million 7.8 million 20.6% 3.8 million 3.2 million 19.1% 2.6 million 2.2 million 1.0% 5.2 million 5.1 million carats carats carats carats carats carats carats carats
A unique 27.85 carat pink diamond Not the largest, yet a uniquely orange- was mined in the summer of 2017 at the 54.32 carat diamond was mined at coloured diamond of 1.76 carats was mined Ebelyakh placer deposit north of the Arctic 76.53 carat transparent yellow Zarnitsa pipe in March 2018. 29 tons in December 2017. The specialists of the Circle. It is the biggest pink diamond that diamond, mined in March 2017 at of ore had to be processed in order to Diamond Sorting Center admit that they has ever been recovered in the history catch the International underground mine catch recover these 11 grams of precious catch have never seen a diamond of such a deep catch of ALROSA Group. More information at the depth of more than 1 km. mineral. orange colour and call it “a mandarin on the coloured diamonds recovered by diamond” among themselves. ALROSA can be found in a special project on page 10.
4 ALROSAАЛРОСА Septemberлето 2018 2018 ALROSAАЛРОСА September лето 2018 55 NEWS
S&P HAS INCREASED THE CREDIT RATING OF ALROSA TO “ВВВ-” International Rating Agency S&P Global Ratings has increased the long-term credit rating of the Company to “BBВ-”, the rating forecast – “stable”. ALROSA TO PAY DIVIDENDS The Agency focuses on positive trends in the polished and rough diamond TWICE A YEAR market, stable high return on business In August, the Supervisory ratio of ALROSA, leading position in the Board of the Company global sector, significant improvement approved the new Dividend of financial stability, and gradual Policy. enhancement of the operational activity. “We are pleased that the Agency highly development, financial stability and appreciated our work that allow us to distribution of dividends. To maintain The Supervisory Board demonstrate a stable return on business comfortable leverage level we plan to recommended the stockholders ratio. Low leverage level and strict control keep the Net debt/EBITDA ratio within to approve dividend payment for the first over costs let the Company provide a the range of 0.5x-1.0x,” told Alexey 6 months at a rate of 5.93 rubles per share. Zarya open-pit positive cash flow for the key business Philippovsky, ALROSA Deputy CEO. A total of 43.67 billion rubles may be spent to pay dividends. According to the approved parameters, reached the new dividend policy will imply the change of the practice of payment Sergey Ivanov was named one frequency up to twice a year (for the first 100 meters 6 months and for 12 months of the year net of dividends for the first 6 months paid previously). Previously dividends were paid The capital mining operations at ALROSA’s new diamond of the best CEOs once a year based on the Company’s annual deposit Zarya in Yakutia, which began in June 2016, are at his previous position with NLMK, Russia’s performance. entering the final stage. For two years, 10 million cubic The head of ALROSA, Sergey largest steelmaker. Free cash flow (FCF) which takes into meters of overburden were carried out from the open- Ivanov, was ranked 2nd out of The Institutional Investor’s ranking is account the operating cash flow net of pit, and the depth of it has reached 100 meters. Diamond 34 companies’ CEOs in the based on the survey of 189 sell-side analysts, capital expenditure is considered to be mining, as planned, will begin next year. mining sector according to 328 portfolio managers and buy-side used as a new basis for calculating dividend analysts conducted in February and March payments. The mining operations at Zarya deposit are carried out by Aikhal Institutional Investor ranking. 2018. The Institutional Investor evaluated According to the new policy, with a net Mining and Processing Division. Total diamond resources of the deposit are readiness of IR team empowered to speak debt/EBITDA ratio, the Supervisory Board estimated at 3.5 million carats worth more than USD $1 billion. Its development The issuers evaluated authoritatively on the company’s behalf, will recommend dividends of more than will allow replacing the falling-out reserves of Komsomolskaya pipe, where mining activities of CEOs in the mining sector timely and appropriate level of financial 100% of FCF, with ratio of 0x–1x – from operations are due to complete. of developing economies of Europe, the disclosure, efficiency of meetings through 70 to 100% FCF, and with ratio in the range The development of the deposit is planned to the depth of 300 meters with the Middle East and Africa (EMEA region) in road shows, conferences and reverse of 1x-1.5x, the recommended amount of production of 12 million tons of ore. The completion of the open-pit mining is 2018. What’s interesting is that Sergey road shows, the quality of corporate annual dividends will be from 50 to 70% planned in 2030. The average diamond grade is estimated at 0.28 carats per ton of Ivanov topped the ranking list based on the documents and investor kit materials, of FCF. However, if the net debt/ EBITDA ore. The cumulative investment volume will constitute around 12 billion rubles. buy-side analysts votes. delivery of insight and useful reports on ratio does not exceed 1.5x, the minimum About 130 people are involved in the open-pit mining. Sergey Takhiev, ALROSA Head of ESG/SRI metrics, the quality of website, dividend level will be 50% of net profit Zarya pipe is located two kilometers away from the Aikhal settlement in Corporate Finance, topped the list of the commitment to corporate governance according to the international financial Mirninsky District of Yakutia. On June 10th 2016, the first industrial explosion took Best IR Professionals based on all votes while standards, as well as other criteria. reporting standards. place at Zarya pipe.
6 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 7 NEWS ALROSA SOLD RUSSIA’S MOST The output plan at the Internatsionalny underground mine to be revised EXPENSIVE DIAMOND Mouawad Group Jewelry House has acquired at the auction the 51.38 carat Dynasty diamond, 800 meters whereas it is necessary to carry out works to prevent the last from five gems, included into the collection of the same name. gas-dynamic phenomena recorded there. Mining at lower levels is expected to resume at the end of 2018 when studies will be carried out and the expert recommendations will be received. However, The central diamond in the the Vorontsovs; and the oval 1.39 carat it is conceivable that the intensity of mine footage will be reduced collection has a traditional round shape, diamond is the Yusupovs. for safety reasons. According to preliminary estimates, mining and the highest colour and quality The Dynasty diamond as well as other operations below the level of minus 800 meters will be fully characteristics: D colour, VVS1 clarity. four diamonds in the collection was REFERENCE: restored in 2023, after which the underground mine will return to It is the purest of all large diamonds created from a 179-carat rough diamond. its designed capacity of 500 thousand tons. manufactured throughout the Russian The unique rough crystal was recovered Mouawad Group was created in Beirut (Lebanon) by Mouawad family. Currently The solution will not have an impact on the ALROSA Group jewelry history. from Nyurbinskaya kimberlite pipe in the business is run by brothers Fred, production plans in 2018 at 36.6 million carats. According to Four gems from Dynasty collection were the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) in 2015. Pascal and Alain. The Jewelry House owns the Company’s estimation, from 2019 to 2022, the decline in sold before, in November 2017. The total The gems were cut by the craftsmen from 13 boutiques in Switzerland, Asia and the production at the Internatsionalny will be around 0.5-0.8 million revenue from five gems collection sales DIAMONDS ALROSA. Middle East, and their products used by such celebrities as Christina Aguilera, Britney carats per year. amounted to USD $10 million. Spears, Kim Kardashian and others. Also the “Our employees’ safety and health are the absolute priority Fred and Pascal Mouawad, co-owners of House successfully works, for example, in for us. Pace and output reduction is determined by safety and the jewelry firm, said: “We’re very proud fashion industry. One of the most surprising environment system and new stricter rules therein,” said Sergey of this important acquisition. We will add projects became the project in collaboration The changes will not affect the ALROSA Group Ivanov, ALROSA CEO. it to our repertoire of historic diamonds. with Victoria’s Secret, within which there were produced several collections of the production forecast for 2018. The Internatsionalny underground mine is located 16 km What attracted us to the Dynasty is “diamond” lingerie decorated with natural south-west from Mirny town; it was commissioned in 1999. As of not only its exceptional quality but the jewels. Based on the audit of the design solutions, conducted at the beginning of 2018, Internatsionalny pipe diamond resources transparency of its history and the fact it’s all ALROSA’s production facilities following the Mir mine accident under the standards of the National Reserves Committee were the most valuable diamond ever sold by in 2017, the Company’s management has revised the production 51.3 million carats. In 2017, the underground mine produced ALROSA. It’s a rare gem with a remarkable project at the Internatsionalny underground mine of Mirninsky 3.7 million carats of rough diamonds. The approved reserves of record.” Mining and Processing Division. ALROSA decided to suspend Internatsionalny pipe are characterized by a high diamond grades, The stones in the Dynasty collection are the construction of deep mine levels below the level of minus on the average about 7-8 carats per ton. named after the famous Russian dynasties that made a significant contribution in the development of Russian Jewelry. The second by size, a 16.67 carat round 3.3%. The main growth factors that brilliant-cut diamond was named the LEADING POSITION IN TOTAL allowed entering the list of global leaders Sheremetevs; a 5.05 carat oval one is the are sales growth, increase in profitability Orlovs; a 1.73 carat pear-cut diamond is STOCKHOLDER RETURN and growth in dividend payments. Totally 2,425 companies with a free float of at least 20% of the share capital ALROSA ranked 2nd among traded on the exchanges in the last global mining companies with a market 5 years were included in 2018 Value capitalization over USD $4 billion in creators ranking. All companies were terms of the total stockholder return divided into 33 industries and ranked Restart in New York years auction for the sale of special size rough diamonds (weighing (TSR) in the Boston Consulting Group by the average annual total stockholder from 10.8 carats and over). 63 lots with a total weight of 1,040 2018 Value creators ranking. return for the period from 2013 to 2017. ALROSA has reopened its office in New York carats were sold for a total amount of USD $10.38 million. The average annual total stockholder The total stockholder return is a key on Fifth Avenue and held the first in two years At the polished diamond tender, 111 gems of standard colour return of ALROSA shareholders, indicator of the assessment of the return auction. with a total weight of 308.97 carats were sold. The total revenue according to the issuers, is 25.4% for on investments in companies’ shares from sales amounted to USD $1.5 million. the period from 2013 to 2017, which and takes into account both the change 50 companies from world’s largest diamond trading ALROSA office in New York was opened in 2006, but since 2016 it significantly exceeds the median value in stock quotes and the amount of centers, including 7 from the USA and 43 from Belgium, India, has not been operating for organizational reasons. It resumed work for the industry in the amount of minus dividends paid. Israel and the United Arab Emirates, took part in the first in several in the spring of 2018.
8 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 9 SPECIAL PROJECT
Diamond is a rare mineral. There are even species ten thousand times more rare than the conventional, more familiar colourless crystals. Those are the diamonds of intense, fancy colours. LIFE IN A NEW COLOUR
While a big colourful catch is always a sensation, a big An unusual polished diamond enjoys highest attention coloured polished diamond at auction is a guarantee of atten- of a cutter as well as a buyer since a coloured stone, unlike tion and often a record price tag. a colourless one, requires more care during cutting. Coloured polished diamonds cannot be mistaken with any Finally, fancy-coloured diamonds are priced according to other natural coloured gems. With their strongest reflecting their own standards forming a specific market that defies capacity that only diamonds have, the colour makes the gem convention. truly singular. Amazing deep coloured diamonds are mined in different The origin of colour in diamonds is varied. A colour may reveal parts of the world including ALROSA’s mines in Russia. much about the gem’s history and provenance. Yellow, brown, Welcome to our special feature to learn more about the pink, red, green, azure, in fact dozens of intricate diamond colouration of the precious gems, cutting techniques and the colour tints (70 basic colours in total) can be distinguished. prospects of ALROSA in the market of polished diamonds.
10 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 11 10 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 11 SPECIAL PROJECT
Alrosa has something sensational up its sleeve for a largest trade show that will take
place in Hong Kong this September. A big True Colours is a well-known idiom collection of coloured polished diamonds referring to purity, sincerity, pursuit of self-identification. A famous song will be presented alongside with with this title dedicated to the value of the conventional trade show individuality was later performed by Phil Collins and Justin Timberlake. exhibits for the first time. PERSONAL ITY TINTS
Something That obvious advantages. Firstly, ALROSA is to- Delicate Workmanship the traditions and prestige of Everybody Wants day one of the only two diamond-mining With its capability potential today, the famous Russian jewelers Since the beginning of the year, companies with an in-house gem-cutting ALROSA can become the biggest produc- renowned for their fine crafts- cutting division DIAMONDS ALROSA business. This means that the company er of coloured diamonds to achieve the manship ever since the first has been creating the collection des- is capable of testifying to any diamond’s annual target of 7000 ct or higher. Since cutting factory was established in tined for Hong Kong Gem & Jewelry Fair. history from its mining site to the buyer the end of the last year, the company has early 1700-s, at the time of Peter the ALROSA is busy developing its cutting divi- thus verifying its origin. Secondly, dia- started to grade the diamonds against Great. sion focusing on unique gems. One of the mond jewelers and retailers will have an the 19 colour tint scale. The colour An important step towards such focus areas is coloured polished diamonds. opportunity to save on dealer premiums. specter ranging from the classic yellow revival was made in 2017 when ALRO- For instance, the company will have its ALROSA offers considerable marketing tints to the less common pink and deep SA presented The Dynasty, a unique division to cut the most expensive 28-ct support to its customers helping them to lilac tints can satisfy the most demand- collection of polished diamonds cut in- pink diamond ever found in Russia. develop creative concepts and position ing buyer. These days the majority of house. A 51.38 ct gem of the traditional A deep purple 11-ct polished diamond brands. such diamonds are delivered to ALROSA round cut, the heart of the collection, is bound to become a star of the Hong polishing branch. Russian craftsmen is the clearest of all the large polished Kong fair. Unique purple and pink gems have years of manufacturing experience diamonds ever cut in the entire history will also be a part of the collection. Buyers and are well aware of the true, world- of Russian jewelry. from all over the world are signing up for famous Russian Cut, an embodi- Backed by strong reputation, Russian the viewings. ment of the cutting highest diamond brand awareness, compliance The collection will be exhibited at True standards. ALROSA is with all the ethical and environmen- Colours, ALROSA’S own auction. The determined to revive tal standards, highest cutting quality, new polished diamonds collection will world-renowned Russian jewelry tradi- embody authenticity, self-realization and tions, ALROSA is capable of becoming individual value, the qualities so much a leader in the global market of polished in public demand these days. The True diamonds. Colours auction will become an annual event. Full information about the polished di- amonds will be made available to buyers through a specialized digital catalogue as soon as the diamonds are GIA certified. A possibility to buy diamonds directly from ALROSA will be another market nov- elty. This step appears to have at least two
12 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 13 SPECIAL PROJECT
the lattice. The pink colour is a quite different matter. Scien- tists realized that plastic deformation processes contributed to the pink colour of diamond crystals. Two factors – the pressure inside the Earth’s mantle and ex- tremely high temperatures – appear to contribute to the oc- currence of pink as well as brown diamond colour. Diamonds remain in semi-solid (plastic) state inside the mantle. Scien- tists surmise that the pressure is caused by the movement and metamorphism of the mantle rocks during the global dia- strophic movement. As parent rocks move closer to the Earth’s surface, the plas- PERSONAL tic-state diamond travels together with the rock exposed to temperatures of 1200 degrees thus acquiring a brown colour. FILE The pink colour is acquired at a lower temperature of 800 de- Galina Kriulina, grees when the diamond is already crystallized and solidified. Therefore, the pink diamonds experience harder deformation PhD in geology and mineralogy, than the brown ones often acquiring a chunky, step-like sur- expert gemologist of Moscow face. Many pink diamonds feature cracks and defects for just State University Gemology Centre, this reason. Grading diamonds for cutting is a laborious exer- cise. Cutting such diamonds isn’t any easier since plastic defor- research fellow of Moscow State mation may cause the diamond to accumulate stress; when University Geology Department sawed and polished, the diamond may crack apart or ‘explode’. This is why the share of cut pink diamonds among all the RESOLVING mined diamonds accounts for a fraction of percent. The orange pink, vivid and purplish stones are the most highly appreciated colour tints. A fancy-coloured luster is their distinctive fea- ture. Alexandrites turning red in the light of A DIAMOND Why Pink? the day and green in artificial lighting are the Pink diamonds have a special place in the nature’s stone chameleons. While polished coloured diamond variety. Despite the °С diamonds do not display the same contrasting common opinion it is the most sought-af- colour change, the orange-pink gems do play with ter rather than the rarest colour of the tints slightly changing their colour depending on the INTO ATOMS natural diamonds. The romantic associations lighting intensity. of the pink colour combined with the multitude of Fancy purplish red diamonds are the rarest, sporadic and What can colour tell about the adventures of a diamond on its way to the tints make the pink diamond truly popular among the con- hence the most expensive. Fancy intense, fancy vivid are the noisseurs. The way the diamonds ‘come by’ this colour is dif- most valuable kinds of the pink diamonds. A brownish tint Earth surface? Which of them change their tint, do exposed gems retain ferent from most others. exhibited by red and pink diamonds can be a disturbing sign the radiation? Galina Kriulina, expert gemologist, shares the unlikely A diamond is a metastable crystalline state carbon. Usual- since it may lead to sharp devaluation. Contrariwise, the value secrets of the coloured diamonds. ly the colour is caused by chemical impurities contaminating of brown gems exhibiting orange tint may rise.
INTENSE LUSTER, HIGH DISPERSION AND LIGHT REFRACTIVITY ENSURE MAXIMUM INSTANCES OF FLASHING BOTH IN SUNLIGHT AND ARTIFICIAL LIGHTING. WHENEVER A POLISHED DIAMOND IS COMPARED TO OTHER GEMS WITH SIMILAR OPTIC PROPERTIES REFERRED TO AS ‘IMITATIONS’, THE LUMINOSITY OF THE LATTER IS SAID TO BE ‘LIFELESS’. THUS, AN EXPERT MAY TELL A MOISSANITE OR A PHIANITE FROM A COLOURLESS DIAMOND BY ITS LUSTER. NO NATURAL GEM COMPARES TO COLOURED DIAMOND IN TERMS OF THEIR LUSTER. OWNERS OF COLOURED DIAMOND ENJOY A DOUBLE BENEFIT. FIRSTLY, THEY ARE AWARE OF WEARING A UNIQUE GEM. SECONDLY, SUCH GEM IS CLEARLY A POLISHED DIAMOND THAT REQUIRES NO CREDENTIALS TO PRESENT
14 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 15 SPECIAL PROJECT
Why Green? The green colour of a diamond is de- Why Yellow? Natural radiation is the reason why cer- ceptive. The colouring is superficial, Diamonds of yellowish tint occur tain diamonds acquire a green colour. very rarely are the diamond’s insides most often. It has been proven that Can a diamond emit radiation after it coloured too. The colour may also be such tint is caused by the nitrogen has been extracted from the mine? Let distributed unevenly, in chunks, or displacement of carbon atoms. Gems me reassure you: no, it can’t. disappear altogether during cutting. of the most attractive colours such as The green colour occurs whenever This will degrade a coloured diamond intense yellow, yellowish orange are a fully developed rather than a growing to a plain, colourless diamond. Be- a rare find. diamond is exposed to natural radia- sides, the diamond’s green colour is tion; this colour is therefore epigenetic. thermally unstable. The exotic A radioactive mineral residing in the green tint may turn brown N same rock next to the diamond is the when heated to 550°C. 7 radiation source. For example, a charoit Such brown-coloured may be such source. The radiation pro- crystals used to be found, cess occurs whenever, for instance, the among other places, in diamond finds itself near the Earth’s the ancient placers of the surface inside the diamond pipe vent Urals that had experi- (into which the diamond is pushed up enced metamorphism, Why Blue? from the depth of 150–200 km by the i.e. global evolutionary Blue and light blue tints are derived from boron impurities; thanks to erupting magma), or on the surface, at processes. Developments this chemical element diamonds can conduct electric current (have a secondary, placer deposit. such as the mountain semiconductor properties). However the story of blue diamond is not Millions of years of exposure under formation occur under high that simple. Blue diamonds mined from the Argyle pipe in Australia steady temperature conditions, – which temperatures. If diamonds featured no boron in their crystalline lattices and hence had no semi- is something that happens very rarely happened to be a part of this conductor properties. Such diamonds often had a greyish tint thanks indeed, – can only give the diamond an process, those originally green to the hydrogen impurities. intense green colour. Colour intensity subsequently turned brown. Such and uniformity – from subdued green diamond contains a lot of informa- to black – depends from the tion. When examined closely intensity and duration of the under a magnifying glass New research published radioactive exposure. brownish spots in August, 2018 issue of Gems that have this may be detected Nature reveals boron bearing colour, i.e. those that which tell that blue diamonds (type IIb) have been exposed to the diamond has are “superdeep” diamonds, radiation, often look originated from meaning they crystallized at least as deep as the transition black. Their principally ancient placers. zone (410–660 km). That’s green colour may only Thus a diamond much deeper in the earth than be detected when lit with may share its ‘life most other gem diamonds. a 6500 K or more powerful story’ as we succeed Remarkably, the boron atoms contained in these blue gems gemological lamp. Importantly in determining the may have originally been for the brilliant-to-be, when the rough geological circumstances of derived from ancient oceans. surface is polished off and the diamond its occurrence in exogenous (superfi- is cut it becomes brighter and its rare cial) conditions. This attribute is very natural greenish tint will be manifest- important for mineralogical explo- ed in the best possible way. ration.
ALTHOUGH HISTORICALLY GREEN DIAMONDS MOST OFTEN OCCURRED ON THE WESTERN SLOPES OF THE URAL MOUNTAINS, THESE DEPOSITS HAVE LONG BEEN DEPLETED. BRAZILIAN PLACERS ARE THE WORLD’S MOST RENOWNED 5B
16 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 17 SPECIAL PROJECT WONDER MINES Fancy coloured diamonds are found in various deposits in Africa, Brazil, Canada, Australia, Russia and other countries. The majority of these deposits may only Russia boast a precious few finds of coloured gems in a year. There are however certain ALROSA mines diamonds in the two locations that become famous for the diamonds of rare colours. Let us tell regions of Russia, Yakutiya, North-Eastern about a few of them. Siberia, and Europe’s largest diamond deposit in Arkhangelsk Region. Almazy Anabara and Severalmaz, ALROSA’s two affiliates produce most diamonds of rare Australia colours.
The world’s most famous deposit of Many of Argyle coloured diamonds is situated Down-Un- pipe diamonds der. A lamproite pipe in Argyle in West are brown- Australia belongs to Rio Tinto. The coloured. The pink deposit was discovered in 1979 and diamonds, however, the mining started in 1983. are the deposit’s trade- Two decades ago it was the mark. Only 0.1% of Argyle’s world’s largest diamond total yearly output are graded as pink mine. Year 1994 witnessed diamonds. These few amount to 90% of the the production peak as world’s entire pink diamond production. 42 mln ct of diamonds. In The Argyle pipe deposit is depleting; 2017, the yearly production according to Rio Tinto reports it might amounted to 17 mln ct. happen as early as in 2020.
South Africa Fields of Colour While Ebelyakh alluvial deposits were Petra Diamonds Ltd, the majority share- I or the Great Star of Africa and 317.4 ct Almazy Anabara mines diamonds from discovered in 1965, their commercial devel- holder in South Africa’s Cullinan kim- Cullinan II, the Second Star of Africa were nine sites of Mayat placer and two sites of opment began only decades later in 1999. To- berlite pipe refers to this deposit as the mounted on the British Sovereign’s scepter Molodo placer. Both placers are situated day a stretch of the Ebelyakh River delivers world’s main source of the rarest blue and the Imperial State Crown. Today these north of the Arctic Circle. The Mayat field more sensationally coloured diamonds than diamonds. royal attributes are displayed at the Tower comprises Ebelyakh River, Gusiny Stream, ever produced in this country. The deposit development started in 1903. of London. Over the 10 years of Cullinan Talakhtakh and other placer deposits. Roman Zhelonkin continues: “These Less than two years later a diamond of ownership, Petra Diamonds revealed five “Placer deposits have waited long to days we are exploring new alluvial areas extraordinary size, clarity and colour was significant blue diamond finds. The latest, come to the spotlight. At the time of within the bounds of Anabara deposit discovered there. Called Cullinan after the a 122,52 ct stone was found in June 2014. diamond deposit discoveries in Yakutia region. We explore in all the four direc- mine’s owner, the 3107 ct diamond became In the same year the unique diamond was geologists and miners looked primarily tions off Ebelyakh. As we treat geological the biggest clear diamond in history. It had sold for USD $27.6 mln. Two years later the for kimberlite pipes that were richer in samples we come across fine size diamonds a blueish tint despite the white diamond cost of only one 24.18 ct polished dia- deposits than placers. Placer deposits fell of rare colour tints testifying unmistak- grading. 9 big polished diamonds weighing mond cut from a blue rough (the by the wayside in comparison to sweeping ably that there are larger crystals in the (octahedrons or octahedron-like shapes are the total of 1056 ct and 96 smaller stones largest of the four) amounted discoveries of primary deposits”, Roman offing as soon as full-scale exploration more common in kimberlite pipes) suggest weighing the total of 7.55 ct were cut out to the record-breaking USD Zhelonkin, Chief Geologist of Almazy begins. The colour, prevalence of rhombic- there are primary diamond deposits in the
of it. The two bigger ones, 530.2 ct Cullinan $25.4 mln at Christie’s. /Getty Images Stock Photo, Richard du Toit Bill Bachman / Alamy Anabara, explains. dodecahedron shapes of the crystals vicinity still to be discovered.”
18 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 19 SPECIAL PROJECT WEIGHT: 34.17 carat DIMENSIONS: 20.17 х 19.65 The Stars of Anabar The three unique diamonds – х 15.1 mm the pink, the yellow and the lilac – were exhibited in Antwerp, Belgium, the world’s More Yellow diamond capital during the first meeting in the new three-year contract period between ALROSA and its Than Yellow long-term clients. The pink record find was followed by the yellow find in 2017. A transparent 34.17 ct crystal of intense yellow colour was mined in the middle of Septem- ber becoming the biggest fancy vivid discovered at ALROSA’s deposits since the beginning of the year. The National Jeweler magazine, a New York City based industry portal nominated the yellow and the Pink pink diamonds Best Diamond Discoveries of 2017. WEIGHT: 27.85 carat WEIGHT: DIMENSIONS: 20.18 22.47 х 15.69 carat х 10.9 mm DIMENSIONS: 16.8 х 15.5
ALROSA’s last year was par- maz. The previous find, the larg- х 15.26 mm ticularly rich in momentous est pink gem-grade diamond THE FIRST BLUE and vivid events (pun intend- discovered at ALROSA’s deposit DIAMONDS ed). A 27.85 ct pink diamond weighed about four carat. The The first blue-shaded diamonds have been became the headliner. company decided against dis- discovered at ALROSA’s deposits. Notably, the Ludmila Demidova, head playing the rough diamond at diamonds were discovered at about the same of the Chief Expert Office the auction. time a wide geographic gap apart: two at Alma- United Selling Organization “We believe that we might zy Anabara’s transpolar deposits, three other at of ALROSA, says: “I have never add more value by cutting the Lomonosov deposit in Arkhangelsk Region. The diamonds were mined in 2017 and seen anything like this diamond diamond in-house, secure sup- STATISTICS 2018. Almazy Anabara finds have for over 40 years that I’ve been port of powerful partners and a distinctive deep blue tint. It is here”. She claims that the com- sell either a polished diamond ACCORDING TO ALROSA’S UNITED a gem-quality 0.35 ct fragment bination of the gem’s colour, or a finished jewel”, Evgeny of a crystal featuring a pro- nounced plastic deformation dimensions, clarity makes it Agureev, Director of United Sell- SELLING ORGANIZATION DIAMOND line and a near-gem 0.16 ct a unique find. ing Organization ,points out. GRADING FIGURES, ALMAZY The Most crystal. ALROSA’s mining and pro- Company experts estimate cessing plants are very rarely that the unique pink gem may ANABARA DEPOSITS ACCOUNT lucky to find a pink crystal. become the most expensive FOR 94% OF RARE COLOURED Delicate One Most pink gems are mined by polished diamond ever cut in- Another marvelous catch of Almazy Anabara anticipated this Almazy Anabara and Several- house by ALROSA. DIAMONDS (BY WEIGHT) PRODUCED year’s global trend. A transparent 20.18 delicate lilac crystal BY ALROSA GROUP IN 2017. discovered at Ebelyakh could inspire any trendy person. It 2018 data may be differ due to the product range adjustment, was mined in the middle of 2017 before lavender blue was United Selling Organization sources point out. declared the colour trend of 2018.
20 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 21 SPECIAL PROJECT
The Treasures diamonds at both these localities likely relate to these Prote- of the Pomors rozoic tectonic processes”. Lomonosov deposit is Europe’s first and The pink diamonds together with their purple relations are largest diamond deposit. Severalmaz, a noted feature of Lomonosov deposit. The entire selection of ALROSA’s affiliate is developing the rare coloured diamonds include approximately 7% of purple deposit, coloured diamonds being the diamonds of varied intensity (purple, light & fancy purple, company’s trademark. intense purple) and 5% pink diamonds. According to the article of scientist Severalmaz discoveries of extremely varied colours and Karen V. Smit and analyst Russell Shor, tints are not limited to pink diamonds. Three blue diamonds “unlike many diamond mines in South weighing from 0.09 to 0.32 ct were discovered there in 2017 Platinum necklace with coloured polished Africa, Canada, and Siberia, the Lomon- and 2018. diamonds produced by Severalmaz in osov deposit is not in a stable Archean Yellow crystals are still the overwhelming majority (over Arkhangelsk Region. 1.02 ct fancy vivid purple- geologic setting. Similar to the Argyle 70%) among the rare coloured diamonds discovered at Lo- pink, a 0.50 ct fancy intense pinkish purple, a 0.36 ct fancy vivid purplish pink. The necklace diamond mine in Australia, Lomonosov monosov deposit. About 70% of all the coloured diamonds are was sold at Sotheby’s, NYC, in 2013. is in a younger Proterozoic orogenic (or intense yellow-green diamonds. Fancy brown gems amount mountain-building) region. Fancy pink to 11%.
22 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 23 SPECIAL PROJECT
В ФОКУСЕ yev points out. – Usually we never saw, Non-conventional diamond facet either mechanically or by a laser saw, the arrangements are also referred to as stressed gems to avoid high temperature fancy. Cushion, radiant, oval, pear (drop- exposure. One polished diamond is usu- shape), marquise , heart are the most ally produced from a single crystal. Such popular shapes of the coloured diamonds. Cutting this 5.05 ct polished gems are referred to as makeable. These patterns allow to ‘pull the colour diamond took him about together’, that is, emphasize a rare tint a month. Ghostly Green by playing with the facets, adjusting the The green surprises. The colour of such facet angles to the colour behavior during diamonds is usually spread across cutting. Besides, cutting a diamond the crystal surface in uneven to a round shape will lose about size the colour. Usually, the colour still ends spots (read more about the half of its original weight, up subdued. Due to the specific character nature of green colour in while fancy cuts allow of facet refraction, a round shaped gem ap- the previous feature – retaining more of it. pears lighter that a rough gem. A cutter may A TRICKY CLIENT Editor’s Note). Dmitry Boguslavsky, benefit from this ‘colouring down’ a deep These spots and the head of the produc- brown diamond. green tint disappear dur- tion launch division, Today few manufacturing companies get ing cutting. The diamond DIAMONDS ALROSA, involved with round fancy diamonds. Which is then downgraded to the explains: is better, to end up with a classic round Cutting coloured diamonds is an art in itself. Few cutters get involved with such tricky white polished diamonds. – Until recently we have 0.37 cut of a rare colour or a 0.65 cushion, matter. A first-class cutter can work a true fancy (such is the name of intense coloured Notably highly valued only chosen fancy cuts for a more conventional shape for the coloured polished diamonds) out of a faintest diamond tint. DIAMONDS ALROSA experts colourless diamonds with high coloured diamonds. Then we ones? The choice isn’t easy. colour properties are often cut from decided to cut a number of fancy – As soon as we have a fancy colour explain which diamonds tints are the trickiest and less predictable just these green diamonds. coloured diamonds to a classic round diamond, the next step is to decide what and how one sets about cutting a coloured diamond. cut as an experiment. Cutting a colour final product we want it to become, says Colour Vs. Cut diamond, whether it’s a classical 57-facet Dmitry Boguslavsky. While the classic round cuts with its round shape or not, is still a non-conven- The results of DIAMONDS ALROSA exper- mathematically calculated proportions en- tional exercise. The process specialist and iments will be exhibited at the Hong Kong Riding The Imagination process specialist of a DIAMONDS ALROSA suring maximum luster is believed to be the cutter digress from the traditional fair in September. These will be diamonds It takes much more time and effort to cut division. – Sometimes we receive intense ideal for a colourless polished diamond, proportions otherwise ideal for the of colours ranging from pink to greenish a coloured diamond than to cut a colourless colour diamonds and struggle real hard in coloured stones abide by different rules. colourless diamonds in order to empha- yellow and weights ranging from 0.04 to 3 ct. one. The reason is that colourless diamonds order to preserve that particular vivid tint are cut in accordance with long established throughout the cutting process. Whenever standards based on the diamond’s optic we lay our hands upon a gem with a faint properties. Since the colour features of colour and a fancy potential, we are up a coloured diamond have to be determined, against the task to emphasize the tint, make their cutting requires an individual it ‘stand out’ by adding the facets. A DIAMOND After approach. By playing with the facet tilting PERSONAL FILE Weight: 11 carat angles and proportions one can succeed in A Pink Bomb CHALLENGE Before Cutting shape: cushion making the gem’s true colour to emerge. One other characteristic of coloured dia- Vladimir Shibayev, process Weight: 27.27 carat Coloured diamonds are cut under monds that makes a cutter’s life difficult specialist, DIAMONDS ALROSA continuous supervision of a process is the gem’s internal stress. Vladimir Shi- Vladimir Shibayev started working as a cutter specialist ‘steering’ the gem throughout bayev goes on to explain: A complicated-shape diamond with a non- the entire working path from grading up – Pink and brown gems are particular- at Moscow’s Kristall cutting plant in 1973. In transparent surface. To examine the stone 1981 he graduated from Geological Exploration the specialists of DIAMONDS ALROSA to the final cutting stage. The specialist ly noted for their internal stress. Almost used a Galaxy scanner apart from controls the cutter monitoring the latter’s all of them are stressed. The stress is given Institute. He worked 18 years at the State cutting as many as 36 1 x 1 mm or performance. away by the iridescence spotted when ex- Repository of Precious Metals; one of his smaller window-type facets across – A cutter may approach me 50 or more amining the gem under a microscope. assignments as a cutter was to cut a classic its entire surface. The facets served as ‘ports’ to examine the interior of times for consultation before submitting The specialists tend to refer to such round shape 57-facet 26.13 ct diamond that is the gem. The specialists looked inside the finished diamond for evaluation. All of stressed gems as ‘bombs’. They are ex- now stored in the Diamond Treasury of Moscow the ‘ports’ using a 10-fold magnifier these approaches are logged. I check the tremely dangerous to work since they can Kremlin. glass. result at every stage to verify whether what virtually explode cracking into several In 1999, he joined ALROSA. In 2008, he joined It took 1.5 months to cut the diamond. we did was right, whether an angle may be fragments. Working the diamond took the total of further re-adjusted to emphasize the colour. – How one deals with the ‘bombs’? They DIAMONDS ALROSA’s pilot project to cut colour 5.5 months including grading and cutting. A cutter’s self-sufficiency is completely out require very delicate cutting. I repeat this diamonds as a process specialist. of the question, says Vladimir Shibayev, to the cutters every day, Vladimir Shiba- His track record as a diamond cutter is 8 years.
24 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 25 THESE LUXURY GOODS ARE NOT ONLY ABLE TO DELIVER AN AESTHETIC DELIGHT BUT ALSO MULTIPLY THE SPECIAL WEALTH OF THEIR OWNERS. WHICH OF THEM COPES BETTER?* PROJECT Colour diamond and a jewelry item
Paintings Pieces of fine arts are often involved in auction sensations. Last year a new record price paid for paintings– $450 million – was set. It is the price paid for Leonardo da Vinci’s Salvator Mundi. And Vincent van Gogh’s Laboureur dans un champ, the maximum expected price for which had been USD $65 million, was sold for USD $81.3 million. Most consumers perceive Over the period of 12 months among diamonds as beautiful adornments, other luxury goods the fine arts items have shown the most rapid growth for many of them diamonds – by 21%. Yet in the 10-year period they have mean memory and a love token. Retro cars has gone up in price by 4%. Accustomed to being at the rating top by annual price growth, classic lost by the price growth to colour And a few of them consider Vintage cars that demonstrated cars receded from their position after the 2Q 2017 diamonds and jewelry as the cost an annual price growth for the when showed the value growth not exceeding 2% of coloured diamonds increased by 77%, and that of jewelry – by 138%. diamonds as an attractive target last 5 years have shown the and gave way to the jewelry. However, retro cars for investment. first decline at the end of the 1Q are ranked first by the price growth over the last 5 COLOURED 2018. Over the period of twelve years – 91%. The most rapid price growth showed months the prices for retro cars car makes of the 1950s–1960s. And 1962 Ferrari Collector-grade they are used for their intended purpose. That fell by 1%. By comparison, the 250 GTO, sold for $USD 38.1 million, held a world is why the prices of the few that remain are cost of colour diamonds has record for the cost of a classic car at auction till wines shocking. Prices of the most expensive ones not changed and the jewelry 2018. In contrast with paintings, exceed much more than USD $100 thousand. cars or antique furniture the The market price of less rare items is $5–20 INVESTMENT collectible wines are gradually thousand. reducing in their number, as As this price is much more affordable than a few million dollars, today the market Sales of coloured diamonds by Christie’s and Sotheby’s, two largest Chinese ceramics of collectible wines is very attractive for investors. Over the last year, the price for auction houses In the world of ceramics records for the price paid wines increased by 9%, over 5 years – by 58%, Precious stones shining various shades of pink, yellow, blue, at auctions are fully comparable with Ferrari 250 2017 $391.4 mln over 10 years – by 174%. purple and other colours are the most desired for investors and GTO. For example, a Ming Dynasty porcelain cup The price growth of colour diamonds and collectors. The rarity of colour precious gems predetermines 2010 $57.6 mln decorated with images of a hen, cockerel and chickens (the cup diameter is 8 cm) was sold at jewelry has not been that fast. Yet, we have their superiority over colourless diamonds in price. 2000 $3.0 mln auction for USD $36.5 million in 2014. In spite of an argument in their favor: any wine, even Since the 1980s largest auction houses have been offering the collectible one, will be drunk sooner or Sales volume: enormous passion of collectors, this category of their customers fancy colour diamonds both in jewelry and luxury goods is among outsiders for investors. later, but a diamond will last forever. 2017 – 1855 carats, 20 times higher than in 2000 Among colour diamonds the principal Over the period of 12 months the prices for Chinese unmounted. Since 2011 a sharp increase in sales of colour demand is for yellow, pink, brown and Blue and pink diamonds – the most part of the ceramics fell by 2%, over 5 years – by 12%. Over gemstones has been noted. revenue blue diamonds *The data are obtained from the report by Knight Frank – Luxury Investment Index at 1Q-end 2018. The index the same 5 years the price for colour diamonds shows the investment behavior of ultra-high net worth individuals having a net worth of at least USD $30 million increased by 9%, and for jewelry – by 41%. for 10 categories of luxury goods. Knight Frank compares prices for luxury goods over periods of 12 months, 5 PPPinkinkink didi diaaamomomonnnddd indexindex index BluBluBlueee didi diaaamomomonnnddd indind indeeexxx YYYeeellllloolowww didi diaaamomomonnnddd indexindex index and 10 years. Pink diamond index Blue diamond index Yellow diamond index 55050000 500 Stability is about them 44040000 Price index for colour diamonds 400 Source: Fancy Colour Research Foundation In 2014–2017, when due to high market Jan. 2005 = 100 volatility the prices for all categories of One fancy-coloured diamond is able to reveal its investment of luxury goods. Gold is the first in this rating, and other most 33030000 300 colourless diamonds dipped, the prices potential even in a short period. A fancy vivid blue 3.32-carat volatile goods are cars, stamps and paintings. for fancy colour diamonds demonstrated diamond was sold in 2014 at auction for USD $5.36 mln. It was 22020000 200 their greater stability. And a longer-term up for auction in 2017 again and this time a new owner paid for The rarer means the more expensive assessment indicates that the demand for it USD $6.80 mln. The price increased by 27% for less than three Another potential reason for the prices of fancy colour diamonds 11010000 100 colour diamonds is escalating, thereby years. Another fancy vivid blue diamond weighting 8 carats was to grow further is that the Argyle Diamond Mine, Australia, which ensuring a rise in their prices at an annual sold at auction for USD $12.78. Its owner brought him to auction accounts for more than 90% of world production of pink diamonds, 000 average of 12% over the past 17 years. in 2016 and got USD $17.07 mln for it, 34% more than he paid. is expected to exhaust by 2020. It is the world’s most productive 0 201 1 201 1 201 1 200 7 200 7 200 7 200 9 200 9 200 9 201 0 201 0 201 0 201 1 201 1 201 1 201 3 201 3 201 3 201 7 201 7 201 7 200 5 200 5 200 5 200 8 200 8 200 8 201 2 201 2 201 2 201 4 201 4 201 4 201 6 201 6 201 6 201 5 201 5 201 5 200 8 200 8 200 8 200 5 200 5 200 5 200 7 200 7 200 7 201 5 201 5 201 5 200 5 200 5 200 5 200 6 200 6 200 6 200 7 200 7 200 7 200 8 200 8 200 8 201 1 201 1 201 1 201 2 201 2 201 2 201 3 201 3 201 3 201 7 201 7 201 7 200 9 200 9 200 9 201 0 201 0 201 0 201 4 201 4 201 4 201 6 201 6 201 6 200 6 200 6 200 6 200 9 200 9 200 9 201 4 201 4 201 4 200 6 200 6 200 6 201 0 201 0 201 0 201 2 201 2 201 2 201 3 201 3 201 3 201 5 201 5 201 5 201 6 201 6 201 6 In the jewelry category it is colour Of course, the investors are not only interested in the rate of mine by its output and the main source of pink and red diamonds. 201 1 200 7 200 9 201 0 201 1 201 3 201 7 200 5 200 8 201 2 201 4 201 6 201 5 200 8 200 5 200 7 201 5 200 5 200 6 200 7 200 8 201 1 201 2 201 3 201 7 200 9 201 0 201 4 201 6 200 6 200 9 201 4 200 6 201 0 201 2 201 3 201 5 201 6
May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May May diamonds that surpass as gold and return but guarantees of investment safety as well. And colour The production shut-off will substantially reduce the number of May May May May May May May May May May May May May January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January January platinum along with colourless diamonds diamonds have something to be proud of here too. According to colour diamonds in the market and will inevitably result in further September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September September January January January January January January January January January January January January January by the rate of return on investments. Knight Frank, they are only ranked eighth in the volatility rating increase in prices. September September Trevor Smith / Alamy Stock Photo, FA Bobo / PIXSELL / PA Images / ТАСС, EPA/JEROME FAVRE EPA/JEROME ТАСС, / Images PA / PIXSELL / Bobo FA Photo, Stock Alamy / Smith Trevor September September September September September September September September September September
26 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 27 SPECIAL PROJECT $46.2 mln
The Graff Pink
A Fancy Intense Pink diamond weighing 24.78 carats was offered at Sotheby’s auction in 2010 and SENSATIONS for 7 years it held the title of the most expensive pink diamond. It was sold for USD $46.2 million to billionaire The demand for unique–large–colour jeweler Laurence Graff. is rocketing. Connoisseurs of the rarest fancy colour gemstones are ready to pay record- 4 7 breaking prices buying exotic items at auctions. $48.4 mln The Blue Moon of Josephine
The Blue Moon of Josephine is a 12.03-carat Fancy $35.5 Vivid Blue diamond. In November 2015 the Blue Moon was sold at Sotheby’s auction in Geneva for USD $48.4 $31.86 mln million. Hong Kong billionaire, property tycoon Joseph Lau bought this unique gemstone for his 7-year-old mln daughter Josephine. The Orange 3 The Orange is the largest Fancy Vivid Orange diamond;6 its weight is 14.82 The Oppenheimer Blue carats. This pear-shaped gemstone was sold at Christie’s auction in November The Oppenheimer Blue is a 14.62-carat Fancy $71.2 2013. Vivid Blue diamond. The diamond was sold for USD $57.5 million mln at Christie’s auction in May 2016. The buyer was determined on the 25th minute of active The Pink Promise bidding.
The Pink Promise is a 14.93-carat diamond sold at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Hong Kong auction. The platinum ring with the Pink Promise Diamond surrounded by smaller diamonds was sold at USD $31.86 million. The gemstone colour is Fancy Vivid Pink. When purchased by jeweler Stephen Silver, 2 $39.3 the diamond was originally a 16.21-carat stone. 5 7At that moment experts assessed its colour as mln Fancy Intense Pink. However, Silver believed 1The Pink Star that the stone could achieve a higher colour rating if it were cut differently. This experiment The world’s most expensive 59.6-carat diamond was sold could have cost him a few millions of dollars. The Princie cut into the Princie Diamond is said for USD $71.2 million at Sotheby’s auction in Hong Kong in Eventually, it was worth the risk as the jeweler to be found almost 300 years ago in $57.5 April 2017. achieved the desired result. The Princie is one of the world’s the Golconda diamond mines. The In 2013, the Pink Star was already auctioned by largest pink diamonds. Its weight diamond was sold for USD $39.3 mln Sotheby’s, and the sale price was USD $83 million. The is 34.65 carats, cushion-cut, Fancy million at Christie’s auction in April buyer was American jeweler Isaac Wolf; however, he could Intense Pink. The rough diamond 2013. not settle the price, and the diamond was again added to the Sotheby’s inventory.
28 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 29 INTERVIEW SERGEY IVANOV: “WE CHANGE IN RESPONSE TO NEW CHALLENGES” “We must run as fast as we can, just to stay in place. And if you wish to go anywhere you must run twice as fast as that.” This quote from Alice in Wonderland is today a cornerstone of the revamped diamond-mining company’s philosophy. And one of the principles of Sergey Ivanov, its CEO. In the interview he talks about the direction the industry is taking, what is more difficult to change – processes or people, how to incentivize staff to grow and how to find new niches in an old market.
Adoption of new thinking industry – in the economy, in consumer preference changes, – The changes at ALROSA have been in new products and solutions. These challenges must be noticed by all market participants somehow met, and it is often not possible to respond to in all likelihood. Why didn’t they them by words alone or to control them. If you can’t change come earlier and what made them something, change yourself. possible? This is the first and foremost question of mentality. For a – They are happening because long time, the company used the same scenario: we produce they are necessary. The modern diamonds, we sell diamonds, we make a profit. To be sure, market gives new challenges to the the strategy worked.
Photo: Carlos Folgoso
30 АЛРОСАALROSA Septemberлето 2018 2018 ALROSAАЛРОСА September лето 2018 31 INTERVIEW
and be better, this means they are indeed interested in what they because it involves bold-faced consumer do, what they make, the team, too, will become stronger. fraud, which damages the reputation of There are some similar event formats available for young people. the entire industry. You will agree that Generally, we are betting big on young employees now, enabling nobody is likely to enjoy buying a gem them to grow, setting up training programme, inviting them to passed off and priced as the real thing, only propose their own projects and together see them through to to discover later that it is a fake. These days implementation. Young people often come up with interesting all industry players are looking for ways ideas; they don’t have a tunnel vision. This year, for example, to tackle the problem by regulation and we have given the first test drive to drones to make surveying special-purpose equipment. ALROSA has measurements. Do you know who proposed it? It was indeed a also developed a detection tool, Diamond young employee who was enthusiastic about the subject. The only Inspector, which can identify synthetics thing young people quite often lack is backing. Unfortunately, and other simulant diamonds not only in the opinion of young people is not often heeded. But we find it stones but also in jewellery. valuable. In the final analysis, if we are talking about new modern Another aspect of the issue is the open challenges, then who if not young people should offer state-of-the- sales of synthetic diamonds. There are art solutions? many players in the market, mostly in the USA, who sell artificial gems openly and Real answers to questions about the synthetics energetically promote them. All things – You mentioned the company’s facing new challenges. Do you considered, we believe that natural gems mean synthetic diamonds? and synthetics have totally different – This is one of the subjects that we actively discuss and find to be target audiences and buyer profiles. among the industry’s risks. The share of synthetic jewellery in the But there is no denying that synthetics market is still small, about 2 to 4 mln carats, compared to the global are slowly gaining in popularity, and diamond production of more than 140 mln carats. But all experts large-scale promotion and low prices can agree that this share and demand for synthetics are surging, and we Sergey Ivanov: eventually devalue the very concept of must definitely take it into account. a guest of the Ananas diamond. Generally speaking, the issue of synthetics falls into two parts. [Pineapple] show, which – When you say that, do you mean The first risk is attempts by bad-faith marketeers to pass off is run by ALROSA’s De Beers’ initiative to launch Lightbox, young professionals rough and cut synthetic diamonds as natural. According to expert on the Almazny Kray a “lab-grown” line? Don’t you think it estimates, the bulk of the synthetic diamonds being marketed, [Diamond Territory] will damage the market? virtually 80%, are indeed undeclared. This must not be allowed radio – It certainly doesn’t help. The impact of this event on the market will take time to But the models that delivered in the It is much harder to change the way people think than to come be felt; the industry has yet to evaluate it. mid-noughties cannot be expected to do up with new technological solutions. As the largest diamond-mining company as well nowadays, when the economy, – What steps to address these issues have you already and a founder of the DPA [Diamond market and technology change so fast. IN ORDER FOR taken? Producers Association], we certainly Moreover, the company isn’t getting THE COMPANY TO – It is precisely the development of competencies and hope that this initiative has indeed been any younger either: the deposits SUCCEED, IT IS sharing of best practices that we are focusing on right now. conceived as an attempt to “divide”, are petering out, the equipment is NECESSARY FOR In order for the company to succeed, it is necessary for all the differentiate natural and synthetic gems, becoming obsolete, the processes are ALL THE TEAM team members – and I mean not only the executive team but place synthetics in a separate niche of losing their effectiveness fast. History MEMBERS – AND I the white-collar staff – to have a clear picture of where we are low-end products, imitation jewellery. knows quite a few examples of how going, what tasks we have, why and wherefore they must be At the same time, there is no denying successful companies found themselves MEAN NOT ONLY THE accomplished, and what know-how can be used to do that. that this step can also damage demand on the sidelines for the simple EXECUTIVE TEAM To achieve this, among other things, we regularly hold large for natural diamonds, particularly in the reason that they had been muscled BUT THE WHITE- meetings of various-level executives, 100 or more people. small segment. Consumers who are on a out overnight by young, tech-savvy COLLAR STAFF – In the meetings we discuss all central issues, invite people budget also want to buy diamonds, and businesses. It would be a great pity if TO HAVE A CLEAR to share their experiences and ask colleagues for advice, do now they have a down-market option, the same thing happened to us. market case studies in our and related industries, and listen which is also supported by a marketing And this isn’t just about technology. PICTURE OF WHERE to guest speakers and business coaches so that they can effort and a major brand. Technology is used by people. What WE ARE GOING, WHAT introduce people to some new aspects of work or sides of their At the same time, we don’t want to, we faced is that, having got used to TASKS WE HAVE, WHY personality. and shan’t, fight this. The only thing the the way things were done for people AND WHEREFORE What I really like is that this activity shows the staff’s thirst industry can and must do in this situation simply didn’t want to change anything. THEY MUST BE for knowledge. For example, we have set up a free online is redouble efforts to differentiate “Why change or improve anything if ACCOMPLISHED, AND business library, and the staff maxed their accounts on the very between these synthetics and natural everything is all right as it is?” It took first day, and we had to scale it up in a hurry. Colleagues from gems, to explain the difference between a determined effort here, to be sure, to WHAT KNOW-HOW CAN HR say that they’ve never seen anything like that in their lives. these products to consumers. I hope the persuade, “stir up”, motivate the team. BE USED TO DO THAT This is also a great incentive: if you see that people want to learn DPA will focus on this task.
32 АЛРОСАALROSA Septemberлето 2018 2018 ALROSAАЛРОСА September лето 2018 33 INTERVIEW
questions about blood diamonds. The last question was: why do The development of coloured you think many reputable jewellery company prefer sourcing diamond cutting is one of our priorities. gems from countries in conflict-torn Africa? We give detailed We’ve been hard at it since last year, explanations, but essentially such questions mean one thing: and at the trade show in Hong Kong despite the industry’s years-long efforts to eradicate this problem, in September we will present the first the public still believes that it exists. results of our efforts – a collection of We hear the enquiry from consumers and take steps to give coloured diamonds. We expect we’ll be them as much information as possible about the gems they are surprising the market with such stones buying. About their provenance, about freedom from conflict, every year, and there’s no reason why and about the social programmes that are made possible by these we can’t win a large share of it. diamonds. It is, properly speaking, the line that the entire industry – You have also shown interest is following now. in acquiring the assets of Kristall – Will you be developing in-house cutting of diamonds? Smolensk, a major gem cutter in – In-house diamond cutting is one of our priorities. Today Russia… ALROSA is one of the only two diamond-mining companies that – The company’s supervisory board has its own cutting, and this is our competitive advantage. This has looked at this acquisition and found means that division can truly guarantee the natural provenance that it made sense. But no final decision and authenticity of our gems. Also, Russia has her own cutting has yet been made; the owner of Kristall traditions, workmanship and high standards. The phrase “Russian- must first set the price and privatization cut” is a synonym of quality worldwide, and we need to explore it. method. ALROSA is indeed willing to Our cutting branch currently produces a variety of gems, but consider purchasing Kristall if the price focuses on large, unusual and coloured diamonds. is right. – Such as Dynasty? – Won’t it have a negative impact – Among others. The Dynasty collection was our first attempt at THE MODERN on the company or its customers? creating a whole line of unique diamonds. We sold four stones last CONSUMER IS – On the contrary, such a merger As for us, ALROSA does not plan to Sergey Ivanov two-fold issue. The marketing of synthetics will surely become more year, and the fifth in August; it was bought by Mouawad Group. MUCH MORE can create synergy under certain secure the niche of synthetic diamonds. presents an award to aggressive. At the same time, customers have been hearing for many This is definitely a success story, so you will soon hear further news conditions. Specifically, with a larger an employee at the ATTENTIVE TO We were and remain producers of natural Khozaktiv [Business a year now that “synthetic gems are exactly the same as natural ones, about large diamonds from ALROSA. WHAT HE IS processing business than what we have diamonds, totally conflict-free and Asset]-2018 Forum only cheaper”. But somehow synthetics have not yet swamped our – Can we expect you to unveil more equally large coloured now, we will be able to get a better produced in accordance with all ethical market; this means the consumer sees a difference after all. And diamonds? BUYING. IN picture of the trends in rough and cut standards. What is more, this is now the question of “the same or not” can be answered very simply: if – Not as big as Dynasty, no, though we would not say no to such a DECIDING WHAT TO diamond market, promptly respond to becoming a sort of competitive edge for us: synthetics were exactly the same as natural diamonds, the synthetics large coloured gem if it turned up. On the brighter side, though, we BUY, HE DOESN’T changes in the economic situation, and those customers who want to buy precisely identification tools would see no difference between them. have quite recently started cutting a pink diamond weighing about GO BY THE create added value on a certain product such a product now know exactly where 28 carats, which was widely covered by the media last year. We will PRICE AND LOOK line. But in general, even if the deal they can find it. From mine to marketing work in this direction together with a consultant brought in. does go through, the cutting business – Still on the subject of synthetics: – What steps can ALROSA take in promoting its products? ALONE; HE IS will still be a sideline for us, taking into how do you feel about the FTC’s recent – We have already mentioned new challenges, and another one ALSO INTERESTED account Kristall’s turnover. Last year decision, which essentially has equated is that consumers are now more demanding and responsible. The IN THE ETHICAL ALROSA’s earnings were $4.3 bln, with synthetics with natural gems? modern consumer is much more attentive to what he is buying. In ASPECT cut diamonds share of $100 mln. – It has not equated synthetics with deciding what to buy, he doesn’t go by the price and look alone; he OF THE ISSUE. As for customers, they will hardly find natural diamonds; it gave recommendations is also interested in the ethical aspect of the issue: where and how THE TERM anything that has changed for them. about how to name and describe gems. But the stone was produced, whether it is involved in some conflict, Kristall has always sourced the bulk of on the whole, the FTC’s new guidelines do whether child labour was used in the process, whether the miners “RESPONSIBLE its stock from ALROSA, sometimes as indeed show a certain “softening” towards were properly employed, whether the environment was polluted. CONSUMPTION” much as 90% of its total procurement, artificial gems: following this decision, they Generally speaking, this trend is now applies to all products; the term HAS ALREADY according to estimates. So the potential will be much easier to market. “responsible consumption” has already gained a wide popularity GAINED A WIDE acquisition will not reduce the quantity I believe the effect of the decision will also in the world. Diamonds are no exception here; if anything, they are POPULARITY IN of stock for customers. Also, the long- take time to register. I believe I express the subject to more stringent controls than the rest. First, because it is not term contracts with customers set down general consensus in saying that potentially a bare necessity, and secondly, because our industry is still in the grip THE WORLD. the quantities and mix of diamonds that it can give disreputable sellers another of negative stereotypes from the last century. DIAMONDS ARE NO we supply to them, and by the same way to illegally sell stones masquerading Speaking of stereotypes, I’ll give you a basic example. Many EXCEPTION HERE token we are a party to the contract and as natural gems. As for marketing, it’s a journalists, including those from major periodicals, often ask may not breach it.
34 АЛРОСАALROSA Septemberлето 2018 2018 ALROSAАЛРОСА September лето 2018 35 TECHNOLOGIES
Given the glut of synthetic gems on the market and gaps in statutory regulation of commerce in them, buyers can get a lab- OPINION grown product instead of a natural gem with Svetlana Troitskaya, optoelectronic instrument and system engineer a provenance and and as a result to overpay and member of the National Gemmological TEST WORK Association several times. The problem of adulteration – About 20% of the Russian diamond market (in of natural gems with synthetic ones is now carats) is lab-grown diamonds. This is an expert opinion; there are no reliable statistics because aggravated by treated diamonds. there are bona fide sellers who sell lab-grown The ALROSA Diamond diamonds as synthetics and there are those who Inspector, a diamond deceive. detection tool, uses three methods to test This year, ALROSA has unveiled a diamond authenticity the authenticity of a tester, ALROSA Diamond Inspector, which helps collectors, diamond. One of them is jewellers, gemmologists and buyers of jewellery to check the photoluminescence. provenance of a stone. expert assessment of gems, notes that they have also seen synthetic or refined Synthetic manipulations gems with forged engraving on the To make a synthetic diamond, that is, to grow it in the girdle, which features a certificate laboratory, is not cheap, but still cheaper than prospecting number. for and producing the genuine article. The Centre has also reviewed the The global production of synthetic diamonds is estimated diamond certificate database of GIA, at 7–10 bln carats per year. Almost 100% of them are one of the largest gemmological industrial diamonds; only 2–4 mln carats is suitable for the laboratories, and noted that the risk of manufacture of diamonds. By value, the lab-grown diamond forgery increases as the carat weight market is estimated at $250–500 mln. Yet only about 20%, decreases: 10 times fewer certificates are 0.55–0.65 mln carats, of the synthetics are declared. What available for a D-colour and IF-clarity happens to the remaining 80% is unknown. diamond of 3.02 carats than for a gem The smaller a diamond, the more likely it is to be lab-grown. weighing 1 carat, and 20 times fewer According to expert estimates, adulteration mostly affects than for gems weighing 0.5 carat with diamonds up to 0.2 carats, which are not laboratory-certified the same parameters. because the certification cost is high compared to the sale – Raw synthetics are normally easy to price. identify, but once they are cut, it become Nor does gem certification provide a foolproof guarantee: harder to ascertain whether they are swindlers use paperwork on natural gems for synthetic gems lab-grown or natural, explains Svetlana that are similar to them in parameters and characteristics. Troitskaya, a lecturer at the Diamond- The natural gems are recertified, and the synthetic ones are Based Technologies and Gemmology sold as the genuine article, at twice the price. The fraud is not Centre of Moscow Business College limited to certificate swap. No 11 and member of the National The Gemmological Centre of MGU [Moscow State Gemmological Association. University (MSU)], which, among other things, provides Poor imitation Imitations, or simulants, are materials that try their best to look like diamonds THE GLOBAL OUTPUT OF SYNTHETIC ONLY but are not. As late as the 19th century, well cut glass could be passed off as GEM-QUALITY DIAMONDS – diamonds. Nowadays, knock-offs come in fine quality. For example, CZ, cubic zirconia, a zirconium dioxide grown in a laboratory. Such a “gemstone” % costs about 100 roubles; it differs from a diamond in density and weight. Or MLN moissanite, a synthetic gemstone 2-4 20 (silicon carbide), which appeared on the CARATS PER YEAR IS DECLARED knock-off market in the 1990s.
36 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 37 TECHNOLOGIES
Vladimir Sklyaruk, Svetlana Troitskaya: “In my gemstones. The up-market detectors are user-unfriendly and CEO of Diamond Research experience, one out of ten diamonds and Technology Centre, are normally installed at major gemmological centres and claimed by the seller to be natural turns believes that the cost- laboratories. out to be an imitation, for example benefit calculations ALROSA offers an instrument that can be used by «FAKES HAVE ALREADY BEEN moissanite, or a treated diamond. allow ALROSA Diamond professional gemmologists and ordinary shoppers alike. Inspector to claim its share IDENTIFIED» Synthetic stones are much rarer found of the market out. In any of these cases the customer Vladimir Aust, was misled and overpaid massively”. Diamond Inspector CEO of the Di El [DL] company, Yekaterinburg: ALROSA unveiled its first detector of rough and polished diamonds in March 2018. The detector is marketed as ALROSA – The core business of our company is the supply of precious stones for Chemical Diamond Inspector. jewellery firms. We source diamonds from various countries, including India, upgrade The instrument is a joint solution of ALROSA and the Israel and Russia. We only use natural gemstones. We surveyed our customers: they are not willing to buy synthetics; they want to use natural diamonds. I've Treated gemstones are genuine Technological Institute for Super Hard and Novel Carbon been in the jewellery business since 1995. The dump of synthetics in the market minerals that have been upgraded. In Materials (FGBNU TISNUM). The detector is manufactured started in 2013. But the current quantity of synthetics passed off as natural an attempt to improve it, the gemstone and marketed by a joint venture, OOO Almazny Nauchno- gemstones is unprecedented. That is why we check the goods we acquire for is subjected to various treatments. Tekhnologichesky Tsentr [Diamond Research and Technology resale to our customers. And we have also started buying rough diamonds from diamond producer directly in order to have them cut and thus to guarantee that Irradiation and annealing, application Centre Ltd]. our diamond is genuine. of high pressure and temperature (the – Our tool can identify any imitation. Screening reveals Given the rising problem of adulteration, an instrument such as ALROSA HPHT process, which is also used to natural diamonds, synthetic diamonds, refined diamonds, Diamond Inspector comes in extremely useful. The instrument is a great grow diamonds), application of films – as well as diamond simulants such as CZ and moissanites. All help; it is smart. We've been using it since May, and have already succeeded to improve the colour, the introduction of the above is done using three optical detection methods in identifying a number of batches adulterated with refined or lab-grown diamonds. We will certainly drop the suppliers of those batches. By using of acid through a laser-made hole to rather than one used by similarly priced foreign-made ALROSA Diamond Inspector, we improve public awareness of gemstone burn out inclusions, and filling-up instruments, says Vladimir Sklyaruk, CEO of Diamond authenticity. Many buyers of diamond jewellery know nothing about lab- of cracks with cement. measurement, anisotropy, refraction index, crystal Research and Technology Centre. grown diamonds and are very surprised when we discover them in their items In 2015, the legislature structure etc. using ALROSA Diamond Inspector. Before acquiring this detector, we used the services of gemmological laboratories in Moscow. It took a lot of time. Now we made all manufacturers The diamond authenticity tester market offers can do a test promptly without being dependent on anybody. and retailers of compact and stationary tools. The down-market tools Can technology make mistakes? jewellery to state include hand-held devices and portable detectors – You have to understand that errors can happen anytime, on the tags that that fit in a bag. anywhere, and are quite often due to the human factor. the gemstone has – Their advantage is size. However, they can For example, if the gemstone is not positioned properly. I been treated and misidentify a gemstone because cheap tools recommend making gemstone measurements two or three Cui bono improved. But in normally use but one detection method. And times using ALROSA Diamond Inspector, says Vladimir Diamond Research and Technology practice, this is this is often not enough for vetting, explains Sklyaruk. – In our experience, the instrument has not made a Centre believes that the detector will rarely done. And Vladimir Sklyaruk, Candidate of Physical and single misidentification of any gemstone. be used by jewellers, gemmologists, wholesale buyers Mathematical Sciences, CEO of OOO Almazny There are, however, situations where a natural stone is pawnshop valuers, online jewellery are quite often Nauchno-Tekhnologichesky Tsentr [Diamond so clear that it can be confused with a shops, customs officers and unable to check all Research and Technology Centre Ltd]. perfect synthetic specimen. In this case, government agencies. batches. A stationary detector is a more sophisticated ALROSA Diamond Inspector will suggest The Finance Ministry of the In identifying device. Their price and size differ depending checking the gemstone using a professional THE PRICE AND SIZE OF Republic of Belarus is considering gemstones as knock- on their capacity (screening of one gemstone or a spectrometer at a gemmological centre to buying the instrument. Gokhran offs, one must be aware batch) and on the number of authentication procedures make sure there is no mistake. Svetlana STATIONARY DETECTORS [National Precious Metals Storage] that some fakes fall into a available. Some are designed to identify moissanites Troitskaya described a real-life example of DIFFER DEPENDING of Russia also intends to order the grey area. They do not become only; others differentiate between imitation and natural using the detector: ON THEIR CAPACITY instruments. fakes until they are sold to a buyer – ALROSA Diamond Inspector is after all a There is demand for the detector, who has not been informed of the desktop instrument; it is unable to tell you (FUNCTIONALITY FOR Vladimir Sklyaruk says confidently, gemstone's origin or improvements, everything about a gemstone. But it will SCREENING ONE GEMSTONE and this is due to a great extent when they are passed off as a make authentication much easier whether OR A BATCH) AND ON THE to the balance between price and “diamond”. In this case, however, it you use it on an individual gemstone or quality. ALROSA Diamond Inspector is a challenge to identify a quality HOW IT WORKS: ALROSA DIAMOND INSPECTOR a piece of jewellery. Sometimes further NUMBER OF AUTHENTICATION is a virtual mini laboratory, which fake even for a specialist, and utterly testing may be needed, and the instrument PROCEDURES AVAILABLE can replace a number of imported impossible for a layman. The instrument tests the gemstone One of its main advantages: the use been patented at the international will warn you about it. For example, the instruments, each of which only uses using three detection methods: the of three identification methods. level. At the same time, the Raman effect, photoluminescence Before, I would have needed three domestic detector is not difficult detector identifies a diamond as IIa. Such one detection method. Yet its price and visible spectroscopy. The instruments to test a gemstone. to operate. You don't need to be an gemstones occur naturally, but can also be is way below that of a foreign-made Truth detectors last technique uses a special Because diamond testing is a expert gemmologist to use it. grown in a laboratory. If the gemstone has equipment package with similar Authenticity can be verified with mathematical analisys of spectrum. multi-step process, and one method Ordinary shoppers can test both no distinctive fluorescence, the only instrument in the world functionality. – I use ALROSA Diamond is not enough, Svetlana Troitskaya individual diamonds and batches diamond detectors, which check that can ascertain whether the diamond is natural or synthetic ALROSA plans to develop a family Inspector in class: I study the concurs. of gemstones. It takes a mere 47 rough and polished diamonds using properties of diamonds and their The integration of three detection seconds for the detector to test a is a Raman spectroscope. It is a complex, far from portable of instruments targeting various non-destructive methods: density identification with my students. methods in a single instrument has gemstone of 0.03 to 10 carats. machine that can only be used by trained technicians. consumer groups.
38 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 39 IMPORTANT
Since recently a customer ALROSA’s new may choose any diamond from the DIAMOND ALROSA faces in Dubai and store in Moscow and receive the desired jewel with an official certificate, Vladivostok In 2017, ALROSA sold confirming its characteristics, took up this Roman Kondratiev rough diamonds within an hour. position according to the results of the worth about ALROSA multiple-stage internal corporate $35.3 million contest. As a Director of ALROSA East DMCC, at tenders and the new head will oversee the interaction with auctions in Dubai clients and local industry organizations of the United Arab Emirates; he will be responsible for auctions and tenders in Dubai, collecting, preparing and analyzing the latest updates on PROFILE: A MATTER this market’s trends. Roman Kondratiev was born in 1979 in Nyurba settlement in Yakut Autonomous Soviet The sales office in Dubai was reopened Socialist Republic. He graduated from Glasgow Caledonian University and got the Bachelor of Arts (Hons) in Business Economics Degree, and also he graduated from in 2014 after suspension of operations in Plekhanov Russian University of Economics and was awarded the Master’s Degree in crisis 2009. Since 2014, the office works with Economics. He started his work activity in 2000 at Stock Exchange Department in the OF 60 MINUTES Dubai Diamond Exchange (DDE) regarding Vostok Capital Investment Company. the implementation of the Kimberly Process He came to ALROSA in 2001; till 2008 he worked as a leading specialist at the Financial Management Department. Since 2008 till 2012, he was Deputy Head of gem is examined and the certificate is its own diamond-cutting division, Certification Scheme; parties exchange Project Coordination and Administration Department in the executive office related to issued. A client has his diamond within which guarantees an absolute information and forecasts on diamond market corporate capital, stockholders and investors. Since 2012, he headed Customer Policy an hour,” explains Pavel Vinikhin, the genuineness of a stone, its natural development. Department of Subsidiaries and Affiliates Coordination Board. Director of DIAMONDS ALROSA. origin and mining satisfied the criteria According to the law, diamonds of the highest standards of social and in Russia may be sold exceptionally environmental responsibility. when they have a certificate issued by DIAMONDS ALROSA combines Semen Lavrentiev, formerly independent laboratory. unique Russian gem cutting traditions head of Kommeral enterprise, responsible The laboratory, issuing certificates and application of the innovative for sorting and estimating of industrial for jewels of DIAMONDS ALROSA, has technologies, creating diamonds of diamonds, was appointed new Director been working with the enterprise’s exceptional quality. of Vladivostok Branch of ALROSA. Semen products for a long time. “They know Lavrentiev replaced Alexey Ivanov, whose well our manufacturing process that is What a certificate can tell contract expired on July 30. why they have fewer questions.” Gem certification is conducted The new Director will continue to “In such a way,” says Pavel Vinikhin,” according to the technical develop the main activities of the Far Warranty of genuineness a choice has increased thousandfold, specifications TU 117-4.2099-2002. In 2017, ALROSA’s total revenue Eastern site of ALROSA, including attracting Previously the range of diamonds, as in fact we opened the whole store for A diamond certificate contains from diamond sales at tenders customers from Asia-Pacific Region presented to a visitor, a private a customer. Now anyone, who comes information on the stone’s main and auctions in Vladivostok countries and expanding the Company’s amounted over customer, at the Moscow enterprise to us intending to buy a diamond, is parameters such as cut, weight, colour, activities in the Eurasian Diamond Center DIAMONDS ALROSA, was limited by ironclad guaranteed to find what he is clarity and fluorescence. $70 million (EDC). He will also be engaged in building only these gems that already have searching for.” In addition, the certificate contains a full cycle of the functionality of the a certificate. In fact the access to other In the branch of DIAMONDS ALROSA an information about main dimensions PROFILE: Company’s Branch and EDC. diamonds was closed. Company in Moscow, you can buy of diamonds. It includes minimum and Semen Lavrentiev was born as Russian Presidential Academy Kristall-99 Company. He came ALROSA branch in Vladivostok was in Pokrovsk settlement in of National Economy and Public to ALROSA in 2003 as a diamond “We revised this scheme. Now certificated diamonds of traditional maximum diameter, table size, crown Ordzhonikidzevsky Region of Administration with MBA degree. sorter to the Diamond Sorting established in 2016 by the decision of the a potential customer, coming to us, round shape and all popular fancy angle, girdle thickness, symmetry and Yakut Autonomous Soviet Socialist He started his career in 1999 as Center in Mirny; from 2005 Company’s Supervisory Board with the may choose a diamond from all of the shapes: from a cushion-cut to a marquise- polish quality, etc. Republic. He graduated from a layout specialist apprentice till 2008 he held a position of purpose of development of the Eurasian available in our store. After choosing cut, both colourless diamonds and rare Also a customer may examine a Yakutsk State University n.a. M.K. in Yakut company CHORON diamond evaluation expert in the Diamond Centre in the territory of the Ammosov qualified as technician Diamond. In 2000, worked as a DSC. Since 2008, he worked in a gem, we send it to the laboratory, fancy coloured stones. detailed sketch of a diamond with engineer in diamond cutting work; diamond sorter at the Pokrovsky Kommeral, making the way from Free Port of Vladivostok. The branch sold which is situated in the same building, ALROSA nowadays is one of the only an indication of all its internal and Tyumen State University with a cutting plant, till 2003 as a the leading expert to the director the first diamonds at the EDC in August- on Smolnaya street. In laboratory, the two diamond-mining companies with external defects. degree in Management; as well manufacturing technician in of the enterprise. September 2016.
40 ALROSA September 2018 ALROSA September 2018 41 OPENING
In the Metropolis of the Arabian Sea In spring 2018, ALROSA has opened a new office on the territory of Bharat Diamond Bourse. The public opening was preceded by a traditional religious ritual conducted behind closed doors. The grand ceremony saw the participation of Anoop Mehta, President of Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB), Mehul Shah, Vice-President of BDB, and Russell Mehta, Advisor to Chairman of the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC). ALROSA representatives answered a number of journalists’ questions and organized a Russian style guest-night featuring Russian folk music for clients and partners of the company. Unlike other ALROSA’s branches, the new office does not engage in trading activity. One of the priorities of the Mumbai office is to strengthen the ALROSA brand in India. As was mentioned by Evgeny Agureev, Member of the Executive committee and Director of the United Selling Organization of ALROSA, although the major players do know about ALROSA, the popularity of the brand in the Indian market is quite low, “We want our new office to engage in the development of joint
REACHING THE LAND OF SPICES AND JEWELLERY
ALROSA has opened a representative office in India, the world leader in the production of polished diamonds. The new office is located in Mumbai. Russian diamond giant intends to develop its brand in India and fight against illegal synthetic diamonds.
42 ALROSA September 2018 OPENING
JIM VIMADALAL, director of ALROSA’s representative office in Mumbai
Jim Vimadalal holds a degree Bachelor of Commerce from the Bombay University and a postgraduate degree in business management from the Welingkar Institute of Management. Prior to joining ALROSA, within three years Jim was with the sales and marketing team at Rio Tinto’s Indian representative office, and before that, he headed up Swarovski’s Western India business operations.
ACCORDING TO VARIOUS ESTIMATES, 70‑90% OF ALL WORLD DIAMONDS COME TO INDIA FOR CUTTING. IN 2017, ALROSA DIRECTLY SUPPLIED INDIA WITH ROUGH DIAMONDS WORTH APPROXIMATELY USD $700 MILLION Mumbai office is engaged in expanding the client base, consulting, market AMOUNTING TO 16% OF THE analysis, monitoring risks and trends in order to be able to timely respond COMPANY’S TOTAL SALES to various challenges
From left to right: Jim Vimadalal, Milan Chokshi (GJEPC), Russell Mehta, Evgeny Agureev, Anoop Mehta, Mehul Shah marketing programs with the Indian companies.” New office’s activities are specifically aimed at increasing brand visibility among retailers and retail consumers. According to industry experts, the demand for jewellery will grow In addition to expanding the client base and consulting by 1-4% annually, including due to an increase of consumer demand partners, the Mumbai office is focused on market analysis, in India. Various initiatives within the framework of India’s political monitoring risks and trends in order to be able to timely respond and economic reforms allow the local jewellery market to develop, to various challenges. Among those challenges is the problem of creating new opportunities for productive cooperation. synthetic diamonds. “The majority of synthetic diamonds are produced in India. ALROSA-India Ties Therefore, this region requires the development of protective In 2017, ALROSA directly supplied India with rough diamonds barriers and new technologies for the identification of the worth approximately $700 million (16% of the ALROSA’s total artificial diamonds,” Evgeny Agureev says. ALROSA discusses sales) on long-term and one-time contracts, as well as through the problems regarding the mixing of synthetics and natural international auctions and tenders in various trade missions diamonds and measures aimed at establishing a separate trade around the world. Yet, taking into account that companies with in natural stones and synthetics, in conjunction with industry Indian capital, which regularly buy diamonds from ALROSA, are organizations, including GJEPC. present in other countries as well, the final sales result will be much higher. Precious Traditions The list of ALROSA’s long-term clients includes 14 local India is famous for its ancient tradition of wearing jewellery, companies. However, the actual sales go beyond these contracts, which makes the country very promising due to the middle- as more than 140 other companies buy diamonds from ALROSA class growth that allows more and more people to incorporate at auctions and by making one time contracts. And Indians are diamonds in their lives. This promising forecast is supported permanent participants of ALROSA’s large diamond auctions (over by the activities of the Diamond Producers Association (DPA), 10.8 carats), regardless of their location. created in 2015 with the participation of seven major diamond mining companies, including ALROSA. DPA is developing programs for marketing of diamonds, one of which started in India last year. The main goal of DPA is to strengthen the demand for diamond jewellery, especially among young people, and restore the significance of the diamond as an emotional symbol.
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