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Dining with John and Catharine Butler Before the Close of the Eighteenth Century Eva Macdonald Northeast Historical Archaeology Volume 42 Foodways on the Menu: Understanding the Lives of Households and Communities through the Article 3 Interpretation of Meals and Food-Related Practices 2013 Dining with John and Catharine Butler before the Close of the Eighteenth Century Eva MacDonald Suzanne Needs-Howarth Follow this and additional works at: http://orb.binghamton.edu/neha Part of the Archaeological Anthropology Commons Recommended Citation MacDonald, Eva and Needs-Howarth, Suzanne (2013) "Dining with John and Catharine Butler before the Close of the Eighteenth Century," Northeast Historical Archaeology: Vol. 42 42, Article 3. https://doi.org/10.22191/neha/vol42/iss1/3 Available at: http://orb.binghamton.edu/neha/vol42/iss1/3 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by The Open Repository @ Binghamton (The ORB). It has been accepted for inclusion in Northeast Historical Archaeology by an authorized editor of The Open Repository @ Binghamton (The ORB). For more information, please contact [email protected]. Northeast Historical Archaeology/Vol. 42, 2013 29 Dining with John and Catharine Butler before the Close of the Eighteenth Century Eva MacDonald and Suzanne Needs-Howarth The partial excavation of the homestead of Colonel John Butler in the town of Niagara-on-the-Lake has afforded the opportunity to explore the daily activities of one Loyalist family after the establishment of the British colony of Upper Canada in the 1780s. In particular, the large collection of zooarchaeological material (over 14,500 specimens) can provide information about the availability of wild animal species, as well as the types of domestic animals that the Butlers kept on their farm. Butchering marks provide further insight into the types of meat cuts used in cooking meals for the family and guests. These are compared and contrasted with the ceramic and glass vessels, so that these analyses can be brought together to paint a picture of what it might have been like to dine with John and Catharine Butler before the close of the 18th century. La fouille partielle de la propriété familiale du colonel John Butler dans la petite ville de Niagara- on-the-Lake a permis d’explorer les activités quotidiennes d’une famille de Loyalistes après que la colonie Britannique du Haut-Canada ait été établie dans les années 1780. On remarque en particulier l’imposante collection de matériel zooarchéologique, représentant plus de 14 500 spécimens. L’étude de cette collection permet d’obtenir de l’information sur la disponibilité des espèces d’animaux sauvages ainsi que les types d’animaux domestiques que la famille Butler gardait sur la ferme. Des marques de boucherie nous permettent de connaître les coupes de viande utilisées pour les repas de la famille et de leurs invités. Le matériel zooarchéologique a ensuite été comparé aux contenants de céramique et de verre. Interprétées conjointement, ces analyses dressent un portrait nous permettant d’imaginer l’heure du repas chez John et Catharine Butler avant la fin du XVIIIe siècle. Introduction the Indian Department (W. Wilson 1991: 53). Catharine died in 1793, and John died in 1796. The disruption that the Revolutionary War brought to the Butler family was over by 1784. Accounts of the skirmishes that took place on Colonel John Butler’s celebrated rangers, who the farm during the War of 1812 indicate that fought on the side of the Crown, had been their son Johnson Butler was the next occupant disbanded. Newark, settled on the west side of of their house, although it was his brother the Niagara River under Butler’s supervision Andrew who inherited a 100 ac. parcel (today known as Niagara-on-the-Lake), was including the home. The home was destroyed four years old, and John Butler was reunited when the American occupiers of Niagara with his wife, Catharine, and their youngest retreated in December of 1813, and the site children, who were held hostage during the was never reoccupied (Archaeological war (Ormsby 1991: 15). It was the wish of Services, Inc. [ASI] 2011: 10–13). government officials like Frederick Haldimand In 1999, a portion of Colonel John Butler’s that the new Loyalist society of Upper Canada homestead was salvage excavated in advance be founded on a military hierarchy, with lands of the development of a residential subdivision. of the rank-and-file soldiers grouped around First, 361 m2 of topsoil were hand-excavated, the holdings of their former officers (W. yielding 80% of the artifact assemblage. The Wilson 1991: 46). Thus, the Butler home features (FIG. 2) were excavated after the balance comprised a 500 ac. farm on Two Mile Creek of the topsoil had been removed by machine. (FIG. 1). As the former commander of Loyalist The first structure that sheltered the Butler forces at Niagara, Butler was called upon to family was probably a log cabin, the location provide leadership in the new society, and he of which was marked by a subfloor pit gained a measure of public standing through (Feature 7) that was backfilled with a substantial his participation in the affairs of the fledgling amount of midden material (n=10,698 artifacts) province of Ontario as a judge for the Nassau after a larger frame home was built 10 m to the District Court of Common Pleas, as a justice of south (FIG. 2). In particular, the excavation of the peace, and as the local superintendent of the dry-laid stone foundation demonstrated 30 MacDonald & Needs-Howarth/Dining with John and Catharine Butler Figure 1. Location of the Butler Homestead site (AhGs-18). (Map by Archaeological Services Inc., 2011.) that the second Butler home was modest and until significant numbers of British immigrants “organic” in form, having evolved over time and began to arrive after 1815 (Wood 2000: 28, 51). It not conforming to any particular architectural is obvious from the material culture recovered style (FIG. 2). It certainly was not in the grand at the Butler Homestead site that, as important style of Johnson Hall, the New York State figures in colonial society and as members of home of the Butler family patron Sir William the middle class in their new home, John and Johnson (Huey and Pulis 1997: 25–39). The Catharine Butler regularly entertained guests variation in wall construction between shallow on a relatively grand scale. The Georgian red shale and more substantial fieldstone, even meal system, to which the Butlers conformed, within the same part of the structure, is note- reinforced social ties and displayed the wealth worthy. The use of loose stone for foundations of the hosts through the table setting and the appears to be a hallmark of early buildings in meals chosen. While few settlers could afford Ontario, because the Government House and to buy the best wares on offer in the local other pre–War of 1812 buildings at Fort York shops (Wilson 1975: 216), the Butlers owned (Webb 1994), and the first Parliament of Upper expensive ceramics, such as Chinese export Canada (Dieterman and Williamson 2001) porcelain, black basalt, and rosso antico (ASI were also constructed in this manner. 2011: table 2), the latter of which had been The substantial assemblage of more than developed by Wedgwood for tea and coffee 106,000 artifacts, including 50,082 ceramic services (Kaellgren 2009: 17). The Butler site also sherds (ASI 2011: 24), affords an opportunity yielded the largest analyzed zooarchaeological to examine the daily life of two generations of assemblage (n=14,616) from a domestic site in this important Loyalist family. Although the rural Ontario. The objectives of the analysis assemblage spans the period between 1784 were to establish what taxa were present and in and 1813, the daily marketing activities and which proportions (based on bone counts), and provisions available to Johnson Butler’s family to estimate the minimum number of individuals would not have differed much from those (MNI, based on element duplication, side, of his parents, given the slow growth of portion present, and state of epiphyseal Upper Canada’s population and mercantile fusion), age at death (based on known biological- infrastructure during the pioneer period up age range in months of tooth eruption and until the end of the War of 1812. Growth and epiphyseal fusion), and the body portions changes in the rural economy did not come present (Needs-Howarth 2010a). Northeast Historical Archaeology/Vol. 42, 2013 31 Figure 2. Butler Homestead settlement pattern. (Map by Archaeological Services Inc., 2011.) The Georgian Dinner recipes attributed to Mrs. Glasse made their way into the cookery manuscripts of What would it have been like to dine with Jefferson’s granddaughters (Hess 1997: v). One John and Catharine Butler before the close of edition used in this analysis (Glasse 1774) was the 18th century? A hypothetical meal can be published ten years before the initial Butler reconstructed from the zooarchaeological data site occupation, while the other is an 1805 displaying evidence of meat cuts that can be American edition that might have been linked to the recipes and ingredients found familiar to Johnson Butler’s family (Glasse in 18th-century cookbooks. Hannah Glasse’s 1805). It is interesting to note that while a Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy was first number of Glasse’s most famous recipes were published in England in 1747, and, because of omitted from the American edition, this edition its popularity, it appeared in numerous revised did not include any new recipes, and both the editions sold in both England and the colonies. 1774 and 1805 editions contain recipes no older Indeed, Thomas Jefferson owned a copy, and than the mid-18th century (Hess 1997: viii). 32 MacDonald & Needs-Howarth/Dining with John and Catharine Butler Glasse’s cookbook is particularly useful be they meat or sweet puddings and pies.
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