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Home , Hannah Glasse, Isabella Beeton, The Modern Cook

Cookbooks: The Sandy Michell collection

An exhibition of material from 22 March – 31 May 2011 the Monash University Rare Books Collection Level 1, ISB Wing Sir Louis Matheson Library Clayton campus, Monash University Wellington Road, Clayton Introduction

The Monash Collection is becoming an important one worldwide, many thanks Preface to Richard Overell and his dedicated staff in the Rare Books section in the Matheson Library. This exhibition celebrates the gift of valuable It now covers a large range of books from mainly France, England and Australia, dating from seventeenth to nineteenth century French 1654 to the present day. and English made by Alexandra Michell, beginning in 1988. Sandy has also Why should cookbooks be considered an important resource? In essence, it is one of the made generous financial donations to the few ways we are able to access the private domain. Unlike the public sphere, this area remains Library with which the collection has been relatively secret and impenetrable. Because we must eat to live, food is therefore an absolute developed and expanded to include a fine daily necessity, as well as the way in which we celebrate friendships, gatherings, and all sorts collection of early Australian cookbooks, of special events. Cookbooks aid us in its preparation, whether it is for the family or something and a selection of twentieth-century material. more elaborate. 22 March – 31 May 2011 Therefore, cookbooks document the history of food, giving us an insight into its availability and popularity at different times and in different cultures. One prime example of this was the Level 1, ISB Wing reluctance of Parisians to eat potatoes until extreme food shortages in the 1790s and the Sir Louis Matheson Library persistence of the authorities, forced them to do so. Life without bread was for them Clayton campus unthinkable. Parmentier set about making bread from potatoes instead of wheat flour. At the same time, Madame Merigot brought out a small cookbook dedicated solely to the preparation Monash University of that much maligned vegetable, in the hope of increasing its acceptance. Wellington Road, Clayton

Cookbooks document fads, fashions, shortages, new cooking equipment and methods. Curator: Richard Overell One only has to think of the shortages during and after World War II when butter and eggs Assistant Curator: Stephen Herrin were a luxury, and for cakes without them were treasured. Many of us grew up without Web design: Rosemary Miller tasting , many spices and herbs, vegetables such as capsicums, eggplants, zucchini and rice. In the kitchen, life has been simplified by the advent of the food processor, and even the Thanks to Rita Erlich, the former editor microwave, another relatively new arrival, has its place. Fashions such as cuisine nouvelle and of The Age Good Food Guide, for opening cuisine minceur resulted in tiny delicate portions on huge plates. Now we unfortunately appear the exhibition. to be following the American example of enormous servings. At other times there is a return to favourite recipes from the past – traditional stews, lemon sponge pudding and pavlova. For more images and full information on each of the items, visit Cuisine is now a global interest and cookbooks reflect that. In the 1980s, for example, it was www.lib.monash.edu/exhibitions difficult to buy books on Thai, Vietnamese, Indonesian and Moroccan cooking in English. Now they dominate the shelves in bookshops. Cooking shows on TV have also added to the proliferation of local cookbooks for sale. The ability to travel has increased the interest in other cuisines, and food has become very much a part of the holiday experience.

Now the world of the printed book is being threatened by e-books. Will books become a thing of the past? We hope not. In any case, collections such as this one are helping to preserve the history of food and cooking. Alexandra (Sandy) Michell LARGE UPRIGHT Case 4. Beeton, Mrs. (Isabella Mary), 5. Glasse, Hannah, 1708-1770. 1836-1865. The art of cookery, made plain and easy: Early English books Beeton’s every-day cookery and in which are included, one hundred and housekeeping book: a practical and fifty new and useful receipts, not inserted 1. Beeton, Mrs. (Isabella Mary), useful guide for all mistresses and servants. in any former edition ... / by Mrs. Glasse. 1836-1865. Entirely new ed., rev. and greatly enl., New edition, with all the modern containing new and valuable recipes. The book of household management... : also improvements (London: Printed for (London: Ward, Lock & Co., [1890?]) sanitary, medical, and legal memoranda; with T. Longman, 1796) a history of the origin, properties, Although it was not the first, Mrs. Beeton’s First published pseudonymously ‘By a and uses of all Book of Household Management, remains Lady’ in London in 1747. things connected an iconic cookbook. was is considered the predecessor to Mrs. with home life married to the publisher Samuel Orchart Beeton. In the introduction “To the Reader,” and comfort Beeton. Her Book of Household she explains that the book was written for / by Isabella Management appeared in parts from cooks and servants. Beeton. 1st ed. 1859 to 1861. On display is the first book (London: S.O. edition. As well as recipes, it includes 6. Digby, Kenelm, 1603-1665. Beeton, 1861) chapters on how to manage a home. The closet of the eminently learned After Mrs. Beeton’s Sir Kenelme Digby opened: whereby death in 1865, is discovered several ways for making aged 28, of of metheglin, syder, cherry-wine, &c. 2. Beeton, Mrs. (Isabella Mary), puerperal fever, 1836-1865. Together with excellent directions for her husband sold cookery: as also for preserving, conserving, The book of household management / by the copyright to candying, &c. Published by his son’s Mrs. Isabella Beeton. Entirely new ed., rev., the publishers consent. Third edition corrected. (London: corr. and greatly enl. (London: Ward, Lock Ward, Lock. Printed by H.C. for H. Brome, at the and Co., 1888) The books West-end of St. Pauls, 1677)) continued This book was first published posthumously 3. Beeton, Mrs. (Isabella Mary), to appear in in 1669 from a manuscript found amongst 1836-1865. revised form Sir ’s papers. As well as well into the 20th The book of household management : recipes for “Methegiln” (a drink made from century. One of the additions was comprising information for the mistress, honey) it includes the first instructions a chapter on Australian Cookery, housekeeper, cook, kitchen maid, butler, printed in England for making . ... governess / by Mrs. Isabella Beeton. “to all intents and purposes, English.” Rev., corr. and greatly enl. containing new There are, however, recipes for Kangaroo coloured plates ... several hundreds of Tail Soup, Roast Wallaby and Parrot Pie. new recipes ... new menus (London: Ward, Lock and Co., 1901)

1 7. Henderson, W.A. (William Augustus) Early French books 10. Massialot, François, 1660(ca.)-1733. The housekeeper’s instructor: or, universal Le nouveau cuisinier royal et bourgeois: qui family cook being an ample and clear display 8. La Varenne, François Pierre de, apprend a ordonner toute sorte de repas en of the art of cookery in all its branches / by 1618-1678. gras & en maigre, & la meilleure maniere des William Augustus Henderson. Seventh edition. ragoûts les plus delicats & les plus à la mode, Le cuisinier François , ou, L’ecole des ragouts (London: W. and J. Stratford, [1800?]) & toutes sortes de patisseries, avec des : ou est enseigne la maniere d’apprêter toutes nouveaux desseins de tables / [par François sortes de viandes, de patisseries & confitures Massialot]. (Paris: Chez Claude Prudhomme, / par le sieur De la Varenne. (Lyon: Chez la 1712-1716) 2 v. Veuve de C. Chavance & M. Chavance fils, Marchand Libraire, ruë Merciere, 1699) 11. Audiger 9. Bonnefons, Nicolas de La maison reglee et l’art de diriger la maison d’un grand Seigneur, & autres, tant à la ville Les delices de la campagne : où il est enseigné qu’à la campagne, & le devoir de tous les à preparer pour l’usage de la vie, tout ce qui officiers & autres domestiques en general: croît sur la terre, & dans les eaux ; suite du avec la veritable methode de faire toutes sortes Jardinier françois / [Nicolas de Bonnefons]. d’essences (Paris: Chez Nicolas le Gras, 1700) Nouvelle edition, augmentée. (Paris : Chez Claude Prudhomme, 1713) 12. Le Cuisinier gascon. Nouvelle edition, a laquelle on a joint la Lettre du patissier anglois. (Amsterdam: [s.n.], 1747)

13. Menon, 18th cent. The frontispiece shows the kitchen of a La cuisiniere bourgeoise : suivie de l’office, large household. We see “A lady presenting a l’usage de tous ceux qui se mélent de her servant with The Universal Family Cook.” dépense de maisons ... / [par Menon] In the foreground there are two men using (Bruxelles: Chez François Foppens, 1779) the illustrations in the book to learn the “art of carving.” 14. Menon, 18th cent. La science du maitre d’hotel, confiseur, a l’usage des officiers: avec des observations sur la connoissance & les propriétés des fruits / [par Menon]. Nouvelle edition, revue & corrigée. (Paris: Chez Veuve Savoyé, 1776)

2 15. Berchoux, J. de (Joseph), Continental cooks 19. Francatelli, Charles Elmé, 1762-1838. 1805-1876. La gastronomie, poëme / par J. Berchoux, in England : a practical guide to the suivi des poesies fugitives de l’auteur. (Paris: culinary art in all its branches, comprising, Chez Giguet et Michaud Imp-libraires, 1805) 17. Soyer, Alexis, 1809-1858. in addition to English cookery, the most The modern housewife or ménagère: approved and recherché systems of French, comprising nearly one thousand receipts Italian, and German cookery; adapted as well for the economic and judicious preparation for the largest establishments as for the use of every of the day, with those of of private families / by Charles Elmé Francatelli. the nursery and sick room; with minute 28th ed. (London : R. Bentley & Son, 1886) directions for family management in all Francatelli was born in England of Italian its branches. Illustrated with engravings, parentage. He trained in Paris under Carême including the modern housewife’s unique and returned to England as chef for the Earl kitchen, and magic stove / by . of Chesterfield. He was then the chef at (London : Simpkin, Marshall, 1849) Crockford’s Club, the Reform Club, and St. James’s Hotel. He worked for the Royal Family in 1841 and 1842, but the Queen disliked French food.

16. Carême, M. A. (Marie Antonin), 1784-1833. 18. Soyer, Alexis, 1809-1858. Le cuisinier Parisien, ou, L’art de la cuisine The pantropheon: or, History of food and française au dix-neuvième siècle : traité its preparation: from the earliest ages of élémentaire et pratique des entrées froides, the world / by A. Soyer. (Boston: Ticknor, des socles, et de l’entremets de sucre: suivi Reed, and Fields, 1853) d’observations utiles aux progrès de ces Alexis Soyer was born in Paris where he deux parties de la cuisine moderne / par learned his skills working as a chef in Antonin Carême. 3rd éd., rev., corr. et augm., fashionable restaurants and for the Prince de ouvrage orné de 25 planches dessinées par Polignac. To escape the unrest in France and l’auteur. (Paris: J. Renouard, 1842) to take advantage of the high levels of pay for The authors of the early French cookery French chefs offered by the English nobility, he books were professional cooks in the houses left for London in 1831. In 1837 he became the of the nobility or in the fine restaurants of Paris. chef at the Reform Club, where he designed They are credited with popularising French a new kitchen using gas cookers. He was the cookery, the haute cuisine as we know it today. celebrity chef of his day, promoting his own This was based on natural flavours with fine kitchen equipment, acting as a government sauces, which was a departure from the consultant in Ireland to help feed those heavily spiced foods of the Middle Ages. suffering in the famine, and going to the Crimean War to help with the hospital catering.

3 Early Australian 21. Muskett, Philip E. (Philip Edward), 23. Wicken, Harriet Frances, 1857-1909. 1847-1937. cookbooks The art of living in Australia / by Philip E. Recipes of Lenten dishes / Mrs. Wicken. Muskett ; together with three hundred (Sydney, N.S.W. : Angus & Robertson, [1896]) 20. Abbott, Edward, 1801-1869. Australian cookery recipes and accessory This book contains The English and Australian cookery book: kitchen information by Mrs. H. Wicken. mostly recipes for cookery for the many, as well as for the upper (London; Melbourne: Eyre and Spottiswoode, seafood as it is a ten thousand / by an Australian Aristologist. [1892?]) cookbook for Lent (London : Sampson Low, Son, and Marston, Philip Muskett was interested in the influence when meat is 1864) [“Aristology” is the art of dining.] of climate upon diet and health and believed prohibited. This was the first Australian cookbook. It Australians should eat less meat and more includes recipes for English and local dishes fruit and vegetables. He advocated eating fish as well as a chapter on “Hebrew Refection,” and oysters and which was later published separately. His claimed excessive for “Slippery Bob,” using Kangaroo’s brains tea drinking was fried in “emeu fat, he describes as “’bush particularly bad for 24. Wilkinson, Alfred J. fare’ requiring a good appetite and excellent women. Australian The Australian cook : a complete manual of digestion.” (p. 86) wine was the cookery suitable for the Australian colonies, The gilt vignette best beverage with especial reference to the gas cooking on the cover with . Mrs. stove / by Alfred J. Wilkinson. (Melbourne: represents the Wicken provided George Robertson, 1876) “Antipodes” with the lengthy Alfred Wilkinson was “Chef de Cuisine of the people eating section of recipes Athenaeum Club” in Melbourne. Gas stoves winter food in which included a had been introduced into Australia by A.R. England at the chapter on “The Walker in 1873. top, and a man at Ice Chest”, an essential the bottom eating item in the hot Australian climate. his summertime 25. Pearson, M.J. (Margaret J.) meal outdoors in 22. Wicken, Harriet Frances, Cookery recipes for the people / by Miss Australia. 1847-1937. Pearson. 2nd ed. (Melbourne: Australasian American Trading Co., 1889) [Cover title: The Kingswood cookery book / by H. F. Australian cookery: recipes for the people] Wicken. 6th ed., rev. and enl. (Melbourne: Whitcombe & Tombs, [1913]) Miss Pearson was the cooking instructor at the Melbourne Working Men’s College (now RMIT). Mrs. Wicken was a cookery teacher in London She used these recipes in the classes she gave before emigrating to Melbourne in 1886. After for the Metropolitan Gas Co. at the 1888-89 moving to Sydney she became Cookery lecturer Centennial Exhibition in Melbourne. at the Sydney Technical College.

4 26. The Kandy Koola cookery book 30. Rawson, Lance Mrs., 1851-1933. 33. Home cookery for Australia: and housewife’s companion. Mrs. Lance Rawson’s cookery book and all tested recipes/compiled and (Melbourne: Kandy Koola Tea, 1898) household hints. 3rd ed., enl. and rev. issued under the auspices of the This is an early example of an Australian (Rockhampton, [Qld.]: William Hopkins, Presbyterian Women’s Missionary cookbook printed as a product promotion. 1890) Cover title: The Queensland cookery Union of Victoria. 3rd ed. (Melbourne: It was “published by the proprietors of Kandy and poultry book. Gordon & Gotch, 1909) Koola Tea for presentation to the ladies of This is an example of a cookbook published Victoria, with compliments.” 31. Rawson, Lance, Mrs., 1851-1933. for charity. It included a recipe for “Colonial Australian enquiry book of household and Goose,” which was, in fact, baked mutton. 27. Maclurcan, Hannah, 1860-1936. general information: a practical guide for Mrs. Maclurcan’s cookery book: a collection the cottage, villa, and bush home: recipes 34. Aunt Mary’s cookery book: a of practical recipes specially suitable for and information upon everything and for collection of tried and proved recipes. Australia. (Townsville, Qld.: T. Willmett, 1898) everybody / by Mrs. Lance Rawson. 3rd (Sydney : Tillock & Co., [190-] Hannah Maclurcan and her husband were ed. (Melbourne: J.W. Knapton, 1898) “Presented with the managers of Queens Hotel, Townsville. Wilhelmina Rawson was born in Sydney compliments from In 1901 the couple took the lease on the and lived in North Queensland. Her Cookery the manufacturers of Wentworth Hotel in Sydney. Hannah Book was first published in Maryborough, Aunt Mary’s developed the Wentworth into a de luxe Qld., in 1878. In the preface she writes, Powder.” There is a hotel. Her cookbook continued to appear “Almost every young matron has among string through the until the 20th edition in 1930. her wedding presents a good cookery upper left hand book, either Mrs. Beeton, Warne, or some corner of the book 28. Maclurcan, Hannah. other equally good and useful for town use, for hanging it conveniently in the The 20th century cookery book: a thousand but which in the bush or country, owing to kitchen. practical recipes for everyday use / by Hannah the scant material to work with, becomes Maclurcan. (London: R. A. Everett, 1901) nearly useless.” Mrs. Maclurcan presented a copy of her 32. Story, F. Fawcett. cookbook to Queen Victoria. Australian economic cookery book and 29. Aronson, Fred. B., Mrs. housewife’s companion / by F. Fawcett Story. (Sydney: Kealy & Philip, 1900) XXth century cooking ... and home decoration/ by Mrs. F.B. Aronson. (Sydney: William Brooks Mrs. Story taught cooking at Sydney & Co., 1900) Technical College and at Hurlstone Teachers Training College in the 1880s Zara Baar Aronson, “Thalia” of the Sydney Mail, and 1890s. The frontispiece shows a aimed her cookbook at households with staff. cookery class.

5 35. The Kookaburra cookery book Menus WALL CASE 1 of culinary and household recipes and hints/collected and arranged by the 37. Menus. Manuscript recipe Committee of the Lady Victoria Buxton On display is a selection from our collection books Girls’ Club, of shipboard Menus. They are mostly from Adelaide. 2nd the 1950s and early 1960s from the P.&.O 38. [Cookery book] [manuscript] ed. (Melbourne: line, the Orient Line and a few others. These [104 leaves]; 20 cm. [England, 1818?]. feature graphics by prominent artists such E.W. Cole, This is an early 19th century English cookbook as Lynton Lamb, Mark Severin, Douglas 1912) open at a recipe for “Blanch Mange” and one Annand, and a set of six menus, “Orlando First published for “Common Plumb Pudding”, followed by Goes to Sea,” made for the Orient Line by in Adelaide in a recipe for “Excellent Black Ink.” Kathleen Hale, the writer and illustrator of 1911, the book Orlando the Cat. Also included presents recipes 39. [Cookery book] [manuscript] is a handwritten menu from the HMS Repulse gathered 341 p.; 21 cm. [Haworth?, Eng., 182-?]. (1875); the soup was “Grouse” and the main from named course was “Roast Leg of Mutton.” Open at a recipe for “Stewd Spinnage and contributors. Eggs” and one for “Brockeley and Egg.” Under “Vegetables,” K. Langloh Parker, the authority on Aboriginal dreamtime myths, has this hint: WALL case 2 “However tomatoes are used, cooked or raw, they always require a sprinkling of sugar.” (p. 84) Popular Culture cookbooks 36. The Australasian cookery book : specially compiled for the 40. The Australian women’s weekly requirements of Australian and New presents – the teenagers’ cook book: Zealand homes. (London; Melbourne: from our Leila Howard test kitchen. Ward, Lock, (Sydney: Australian Consolidated 1913) Also on display are some commemorative Press, 1969) The book menus collected by Sandy Michell during Among the recipes begins with her restaurant career. in this book are, a chapter on “Little Italian Pizzas” “Food and and “Neapolitan Cookery in Cassata,” popular Australasia,” choices at cafes of emphasising the time. local produce such as seafood, paw-paw, chokoes and passionfruit.

6 41. Crumb, Dana. 43. The Australian Women’s Weekly WALL case 4 Eat it : a cookbook / by Dana Crumb and family dinners. (Sydney: Consolidated Shery Cohen. Art by yours truly, R. Crumb. Press, [1949]) Aboriginal food (San Francisco : Bellerophon Books, c1972) This was a standard Women’s Weekly cookbook Robert Crumb was the most talented of the publication. It published the recipes from a 45. Kimberley cook book: “some Californian cartoonists in the late 1960s and £3000 cookery competition which the Weekly old recipes and some new ones” / early 1970s. He illustrated this cookbook which ran in 1949. [Recipes and lino prints by Marianne was written by his wife Dana. It includes recipes Yambo [et al.]; printed and edited by for meals typical of the share-houses of that 44. Recipes from famous-brand Jan Palethorpe] [Western Australia]: era, such as “Five Joint Soup” and guacamole. cooks / [compiled by Leila C. Howard Jan Palethorpe, [1997?] No.1 of edition of the Australian Women’s Weekly]. limited to 20 copies. (Alexandria, N.S.W.: Australian WALL case 3 These recipes were collected from the Consolidated Press, 1962) Aboriginal people in the Kimberley area of This was a promotion done by Women’s north-western Australia. Women’s Weekly Weekly with Woolworths. The idea was that, cookbooks “twelve manufacturers of famous-brand foods supplied recipes from their test kitchens F lAT case 1 42. Lucas, Dione, 1909-1971. ... Compiled by the Australian Women’s Weekly 20th century Book for cooks / by Dione Lucas. (Sydney: to enable the housewife to present interesting Australian Consolidated Press, [1956?]) and nutritious meals to her family without cookbooks having to spend many tedious hours in the This appeared as a “Supplement to the kitchen.” 46. Beeton, Mrs. (Isabella Mary), Australian Women’s Weekly,” a magazine which 1836-1865. has been the leader in promoting cooking skills The illustrations at the back of this case are and new culinary fashions to Australian families also from The Womens’ Weekly Summer Mrs. Beeton’s cookery: practical and since its inception in 1933. Dione Lucas was Holiday Cookbook (1967), again from Leila economical recipes for every-day dishes and born in England and became the first woman Howard’s test kitchen. general instructions in the art of cookery. to graduate from Le Cordon Bleu. She cooked (London; Melbourne: Ward, Lock & Co., 1923 in leading restaurants in London and New York Well into the 20th and was one of the earliest TV celebrity chefs. century, Ward, Lock This booklet was published with the issue for & Co. continued to 4th July 1956 to coincide with her first tour of publish cookbooks Australia. using the “Mrs. Beeton” brand.

7 47. “Daily Express” prize cookery 50. David, Elizabeth, 1913-1992. F lAT case 2 recipes. (London: Lane Publications, A book of Mediterranean food / by Elizabeth [1928]) David ; decorated by John Minton. 2nd ed. Wartime These are the winning recipes from the Daily (London : John Lehmann, 1951) [First published Express “Homecraft Prize” competition. 1950] 52. Ration books and coupons from World War II 48. Heath, Ambrose, 1891-1969. showed the English Good food: month by month recipes / by that food is one of Ambrose Heath; decorated by Edward Bawden. life’s great pleasures. 2nd ed. (London : Faber & Faber, 1934) This was her first Ambrose Heath was a cooking journalist book, and it helped to and co-founder of the Wine and Food Society popularise Spanish, in 1933. He published over 100 cookbooks, Greek and Italian often with the word “good” in the title. Good cookery in Britain. Food was one of his most popular. First published in 1932, it is arranged by month These items form part of Rare and promotes use of fresh food in season. Books’ “Ephemera Collection.” During World 51. Oh for a man who cooks / by Carlos War II the Ministry of Food instituted rationing, 49. Sarson, Henry. Zalapa ... [et al.], all of the Society of beginning in January 1940. People had to Home pickling / by Henry Sarson; decorations Gourmets; drawings by George Molnar. register with their local shopkeepers and by Renn. Rev. ed. (London: C. Arthur Pearson (Sydney: Shepherd Press, 1957) were given ration books. Ltd., 1949) “You can regard this book as your entrée into 53. Craig, Elizabeth, 1884-1980. A specialist work on the most exclusive food and wine society in making your own Australia.” The Society of Gourmets met once Cooking in war-time / by Elizabeth Craig. preserves. Bottling to a month in Sydney. There were only six (Glasgow: Literary Press, [1940]) avoid waste of surplus members. To join, a person had to cook a Elizabeth Craig was a food fruit or vegetables “formal dinner of considerable length.” writer with the Daily Express was part of the The Molnar and published dozens of household routine. illustration on the cookbooks from 1923 dustwrapper shows to 1980. In the foreword a man consulting to Cooking in War-time, the cookbook, Oh she writes, “Come along for a French Wife!, everybody. Let’s do our a companion title bit. Armed with wooden which appeared spoon, basin, and in 1952. saucepan we’ll keep the pots boiling whatever happens.”

8 54. Heath, Ambrose, 1891-1969. F lAT case 3 59. Young, H. M. Kitchen front recipes & hints: extracts Cookery book containing recipes for every day from the first seven months early morning Stoves use: with special reference to cooking by gas, broadcasts / by Ambrose Heath. (London: and notes on the management of Fletcher, A. and C. Black, 1942) 57. New Perfection cook-book, and Russell & Co.’s, Ltd., gas cookers / by Mrs. H. The Kitchen Front was a series of broadcasts directions for operating New Perfection M. Young. (Warrington, Eng.: Fletcher, Russell Ambrose Heath gave on the BBC during oil stoves. [U.S.A.: s.n., 190-?] & Co., 1903) the war. One of the broadcasts was on the These stoves used By the end of Queen Victoria’s reign the use of danger of broken glass in food during the blitz. kerosene burners gas stoves was widespread. This promotional and boasted a “fireless booklet shows a cook seated with her darning 55. The Kitchen front: selections oven” which continued while waiting for three large roasts to bake, from talks broadcast by the to cook after being with the oven door open, presumably for spokesman of the Australian heated and turned added warmth. Broadcasting Commission’s off. Nutrition Advisory Committee. (Sydney: Australian Broadcasting Commission, 1943) The ABC in Australia broadcast its own Kitchen Front programmes during the war. Rationing of food began later in Australia 58. Whitcombe’s modern home than in Britain. Tea and sugar began to be cookery and electrical guide: rationed in 1942, butter in 1943, and meat including a selection of cookery in 1944. recipes especially prepared for electric range users. 2nd ed. rev. and enl. 56. Wanamaker, John., (Auckland: Whitcombe & Tombs, [1931]) War-time recipes : a cookery book to help make the World Free for Democracy The cover shows a / compiled by John Wanamaker. (New woman using a large York; Philadelphia: s.n. ; [194-]) electric kitchen stove. By the In the United States food rationing 1920s electricity began in 1942. One section of had reached most Wanamaker’s book is headed, Melbourne suburbs. “Save Meat by Eating Fish. Every Day is Fish Day.” As in Britain, fish was not rationed.

9 60. Radiation Ltd. F lAT case 4 64. Cassell’s dictionary of cookery: How to use your 1430 series New World gas containing about nine thousand cooker / product of Radiation Ltd. (Birmingham, Meat recipes. (London: Cassell, 1896) Eng.: Radiation Ltd., [1949]) Like Ward, Lock’s Mrs. Beetons, and Warne’s Radiation Ltd. was one 62. Trusler, John, 1735-1820. Model Cookery, Cassell’s cookbooks set the standard for the late 19th century. All featured of the major English The honours of the table, or, Rules for chromolithograph colour illustrations, similar to manufacturers of gas behaviour during meals: with the whole art the plate “Good and Bad Meat” shown here. stoves. The cover shows of carving, illustrated by a variety of cuts a housewife using her (Dublin: Printed by W. Sleater ..., 1791) “New World” gas [first published 1788] 65. Beeton, Mrs. (Isabella Mary), cooker in a typical 1836-1865. Trusler’s book gives detailed information late forties kitchen. on the etiquette of the table and practical Mrs. Beeton’s all-about cookery: with over instructions on carving different joints of meat 2,000 practical recipes and sections on and poultry. “We are always in pain for a man labour-saving, household work, servants’ who instead of cutting up a fowl genteely, duties, laundry work, marketing, renovations, is hacking for half an hour across a bone, carving and trussing, the art of ‘using-up’, greasing himself and bespattering the table decorations, table napkins, meals 61. McAllister, Rosemary. company with the sauce.” (p.19-20) and menus, beverages, etc. New ed. Easy entertaining with high speed gas / (London; Melbourne: Ward, Lock, [192-]) introduced by Rosemary McAllister. 63. Wayland, Virginia. Open at the illustration for “Cold Joints” of and mutton. (Melbourne: Gas and Fuel Corporation, Of carving, cards and cookery, or, the mode [197-?]) of carving at the table: as represented in a The Victorian Gas and pack of playing cards originally designed and Fuel Corporation were sold by Joseph and James Moxon, London very active promoters 1676-7 / by Virginia and Harold Wayland. of gas cooking, Here (Arcadia, Calif.: Raccoon Press, 1962) we see Rosemary Here we see facsimiles of cards from the McAllister in a typical 17th century with instructions for cooking seventies kitchen. and carving. It is open at “The Boar’s Head.” To be cooked with “rosemary and bays.” His tusks decorated with apples or oranges, and the dish served with mustard and wine.

10 66. Warne’s model cookery and F lAT case 5 70. Heath, Ambrose, 1891-1969. housekeeping book: containing Good poultry and game dishes: with a note complete instructions in household Poultry on the cooking of wildfowl / by Ambrose Heath. management and receipts for breakfast (London: Faber & Faber, 1953) dishes ... / compiled and edited by 68. Beeton, Mrs. (Isabella Mary), Ambrose Heath says in the “Introductory Note,” Mary Jewry. New ed. with original 1836-1865. “Game having now become a rarity, except for illustrations, printed in colours by the rich, and poultry a penance for the diner-out, Kronheim. (London: Frederick Warne Mrs. Beeton’s family cookery: with nearly these few recipes are offered in the hope that and Company, 1869) 3,000 practical recipes and sections on labour-saving, household work, servants’ they may help to vary the one and dignify the The illustration shows how to serve game, duties ... with 20 plates in colour and nearly other.” (p. 9) roasted and boiled rabbit and hare. 300 illustrations. New ed. (London, England; Melbourne, Vic.: Ward, Lock, 1923) 71. Lyon, Ninette. 67. Noble, Emily. The frontispiece is a colour plate showing Chicken and game / by Ninette Lyon; adapted Rabbit recipes. (Melbourne: Victorian Rabbit various ways to serve game birds. from the French by Peggie Benton. (London: Packers and Exporters Association, [193-?]) Faber and Faber for The Cookery Book Club, Rabbit was a favourite 69. Nietlispach, F. 1966) economical meal in Fish, game and poultry / by F. Nietlispach; The dustwrapper of Chicken and Game refers Australia until the translated and adapted by M.F. Daniels. to the increasing supply of poultry, but notes, widespread use of (London: John Hamilton, [1933?]) “as chicken prices diminish, so all too often poisons made their does the flavour of the birds.” Open at a colour illustration of “Roast meat suspect. Pheasant,” described as, “a sportsman’s gratification.” 72. The Poultry world annual. (London: Poultry Press, 1924) Although this annual has advertisements for “semi-intensive” and “intensive” poultry houses, the modern “battery cages” are a feature of the post-war period. This has caused some consumers, for ethical reasons, to stop buying chicken.

11 73. All out for a chick-n-que: cook 75. Murrey, Thomas J. 77. Morphy, Marcelle, Countess. out recipes / compliments of Your (Thomas Jefferson) Fish dishes / by Countess Morphy. (Adelphi, Neighbourly Jewel. (Richmond, Oysters and fish / by Thomas J. Murrey. [Eng.]: Herbert Joseph, [1939?]) Va.: National Broiler Council, [196-]) 2nd ed. (New York: F.A. Stokes, 1889) The introduction An attempt to encourage Americans to try Murrey recommends serving oysters covers the various chicken instead of burgers on their barbecues. at table “in the centre of a block of ice. ways of cooking A clear, square block of ice is selected fish and includes F lAT case 6 and a cavity or receptacle is made in it recipes for by the aid of a hot flat-iron held close “court-bouillon” Fish to the ice.” (p.19) with white wine, , water 74. Henderson, W. A. 76. De Salis, Mrs. (Harriet Anne) or milk for use (William Augustus) Soups and dressed fish à la mode / in poaching. The housekeeper’s instructor; or, by Mrs. De Salis. 3rd edition. (London; universal family cook: being a full and New York: Longmans, Green, 1890) clear display of the art of cookery in all We find among the recipes, one for “Clear its branches. To which is added, the Turtle Soup,” formerly a very popular dish. complete art of carving, illustrated with It begins, “take half a pound of sun-dried 78. Blackmore, M. A. engravings / by W.A. Henderson. 12th turtle, and let it soak for four days in ed. Corrected, revised, and considerably lukewarm water, changing the water The cooking of New Zealand fish and improved ... by Jacob Christopher. every twelve hours.” (p.36-7) other sea foods / by M.A. Blackmore. (London, J. Stratford, 1804) (Auckland: Whitcombe & Tombs, [1929?]) Henderson has a chapter, “The Complete This was an attempt to encourage New Market-woman” in which he gives tips on Zealanders to be more adventurous in how to tell if fish if “fresh or stale,” “by the their consumption of seafood. scent from the gills.” (p. 357)

12 F lAT case 7 80. Kirkland, Katherine, 1808-1892. 82. Colcord, Anna L. Vegetarian cookery / by a Lady; with an A friend in the kitchen; or, What to cook and Vegetables and introduction explanatory of the principles how to cook it: containing about 400 choice of vegetarianism by Jas. Simpson. 6th ed. recipes carefully tested / by Mrs. Anna L. Vegetarian cookery (London: Fred Pitman, [186-?]) Colcord. (Melbourne : Echo Publishing Co., 1898) 79. The penny vegetarian cookery, The first Vegetarian Society was formed in or, Vegetarianism adapted to the England in 1847. From the beginning, the This was a Melbourne reprint of an American working class: containing an movement was characterised by the zeal of cookbook. The Echo Publishing Co., later, introduction, showing the its adherents. Sects quickly sprang up. The Signs Publishing, was an imprint of the economical and beneficial tendency Vems ate Vegetables, Eggs and Milk; the Seventh-Day Adventist Church, which has of vegetarian habits. 6th ed. strict vegetarians called themselves Vegs and always promoted vegetarianism. (Manchester: Published at the excluded all animal products. Some took up office of the Vegetarian Messenger; the Edenic diet and ate all food raw, and there 83. Blackmore, M. A. London: F. Pitman, [1850?]) were many other fiercely promoted variations. Vegetable cookery and meatless dishes / The work on display is aimed at the wives by M.A. Blackmore. (Auckland, N.Z. [etc.] 81. Christian, Eugene, 1860-1930. of “the industrious working population,” Whitcombe and Tombs Ltd. [1927?]) and encourages them to stop cooking Uncooked foods & how to use them: a treatise Many people simply wish to know how best meat for their menfolk. The author invokes on how to get the highest form of animal energy to prepare vegetables. Miss Blackmore was “the light of science, reason, history and from food, with recipes for preparation, healthful a domestic science teacher and says in her experience,” which shows, “that the combinations and menus / by Mr. & Mrs. introduction, “if vegetables are wrongly nourishment which the flesh of animals Eugene Christian. 10th ed. Rev. and enl. prepared and cooked mineral matter may affords, makes less substantial flesh than (New York: Health-Culture Co.; London: L. N. be lost and the vitamines destroyed, and that which is made from the direct Fowler & Co., [191-?]) the vegetables rendered almost valueless productions of the soil.” (p.2) The authors tell us they took up vegetarianism as food.” (p. 3) to restore their health.

13 84. Bennett, Jane. 86. Gunter’s modern confectionery: 88. Marshall, Agnes B, 1855-1905. Summer dishes and salads / Jane Bennett. a practical guide to the latest and The book of ices, including cream and water (Caulfield [Vic.] : E.H. Baillie, [1933?] most improved methods for making ices, sorbets, mousses, iced soufflés, and the various sweets, compotes, fruit Published by various iced dishes, with names in French pastes, candies, cakes, biscuits, the Melbourne and English, and various coloured designs for ices, jellies, syrups, liqueurs, etc. / magazine, Table ices / by A. B. Marshall (London, Marshall’s edited by William Jeanes. 4th ed., talk, the cover School of Cookery 1885) with appendix of above seventy-five features raw This book gives details of how ices are to be additional receipts. (London: Dean vegetables with made, using cream, or water. By the & Son, [1880] two dishes in 19th century had become fairly aspic, garnished For most of the 19th century Gunter’s was common in England, using ice from Norway. with salad. one of the leading London confectioners. The coloured This recipe book was prepared by their frontispiece Chief Confectioner William Jeanes. It includes shows a swan ice “designs for preparing and laying out desserts.” sculpture and an ice The frontispiece shows a variety of desserts confection made to made from ice and made to resemble resemble a bunch pineapples, fresh peaches, cherries etc. of asparagus. F lAT case 8 Moulds for many 87. Wells, Robert. shapes were Desserts and sweets Ornamental confectionery: a guide for bakers, advertised in confectioners and pastrycooks, including a the book. 85. Jarrin, W. A. (William Alexis), variety of modern recipes, and remarks on fl. 1820-1843. decorative and coloured work, with upwards of one hundred original designs / by Robert The Italian confectioner or: complete Wells. 2nd ed. (London: Crosby Lockwood, economy of desserts, according to the 1897) most modern and approved practice / by W.A. Jarrin, confectioner. New ed., rev. As well as designs for desserts, the plates and enl. (London: E. S. Ebers and Co., 1844) show the styles then current for bridal cakes. Guillermo Jarrin was born in Italy and came to London in 1817 to work for Gunter’s of Berkeley Square. The book is important for the details of the confectioner’s techniques and tools. There are chapters on making fashionable sugar and ice sculptures for the dessert table.

14 89. Australian confectioner. F lAT case 9 93. Cocoa recipes. Sweet-making: a full and concise collection (Sydney: Bushells, [193-?]) of choice recipes / by an Australian Baking cakes This is a chocolate confectioner. (Melbourne: E.W. Cole, Book cake recipe book. Arcade, 1921) and biscuits As well as tea and coffee, Bushell’s The Introduction has details of “a mother 91. Dainty dishes: a book of selected also marketed and daughter” setting themselves up in a recipes / by Nestles. (Sydney: Nestles, cocoa. sweet shop, and what to do when the trade [192-]) “begins to fall off.” Food companies produced many cookbooks to promote their products. Among the 90. Quick easy Jell-O wonder ingredients for the cakes in this recipe book dishes: entrees, relishes, salads, are Nestles condensed milk, cocoa and cream. desserts. (Leroy, N.Y.: General Foods Corporation, 1930) In the United States, 92. How to make delicious cakes/ “Jell-O” has become Bushell’s Ltd. (Sydney: Bushell’s, the generic term for [1932]) 94. 87 kitchen inspirations. jelly dessert. (Brisbane: Simpson Bros. Pty. Ltd., Bushell’s are a 1938) tea and coffee firm and most of the cake Simpson Bros. had a recipes here include flour mill in Brisbane. coffee. This recipe book is most notable for the cover graphic, in the moderne art style of the period, showing a woman sitting in her kitchen mixing a cake.

15 95. Recipes for good eating / the F lAT case 11 100. Vizetelly, Henry, 1820-1894. Home Economics Department, Facts about champagne and other sparkling Procter and Gamble Co. (Cincinnati, Drinks wines: collected during numerous visits to Ohio: Procter and Gamble Co., 1945) the champagne and other viticultural districts A recipe book promoting the use of Crisco 98. Bouillon-Lagrange, Edme Jean of France, and the principal remaining wine- shortening and cooking oil, with the slogan, Baptiste, 1764-1844. producing countries of Europe / by Henry “it’s digestible.” Vizetelly. (London: Ward, Lock, 1879) L’art de composer facilement et à peu de frais les liqueurs de table, les eaux de senteur, et Vizetelly asserts that “fine, dry champagnes 96. Marzipan. (Mitcham, Surrey: autres objects d’économie domestique / par are among the safest wines … Any intoxicating John F. Renshaw & Co., Ltd., [1951?]) M. Bouillon-Lagrange. 3e éd. (Paris: J.G. effects are rapid but exceedingly transient.” Marzipan is the almond paste used in cake Dentu, 1825) (p. 214) He quotes a doctor on its medical value. “Who does not know the misery, the icing, especially for Christmas and wedding Bouillon-Lagrange gives directions for making helplessness of that abominable ailment, cakes. Included here are many suggestions tea, coffee and chocolate, as well as wines, influenza, whether a severe cold or the genuine for marzipan cake decorations, even the made from various fruits, and ways of distilling epidemic? Let the faculty dispute about the unusual choice of icing cakes to resemble liqueurs, including absinthe (p. 138-141). a cauliflower and a cabbage. best remedy if they please; but a sensible man 99. Terrington, William. with a bottle of champagne will beat them all.” (p. 215) F lAT case 10 Cooling cups and dainty drinks: collection of recipes for “cups” and other compounded 101. James, Walter. Bread drinks, and of general information on beverages Wine in Australia: a handbook / by Walter of all kinds / by William Terrington. (London; James; maps by Douglas Seabrook. 97. Simmons, Owen pseud. New York: George Routledge, 1870) (Melbourne: Georgian House, 1952) The book of bread / by Owen Simmons, The Victorian era saw a fashion for “cups,” After phylloxera had swept through the F.C.S. (Owen and Owen). [Edition de luxe.] usually a wine-based drink that was flavoured Australian vineyards in the late 19th century, (London: Maclaren & Sons, Offices of the with sugar and spices. Also found here are the local wine industry was in decline. It was “British Baker”, [1903]) recipes for punches. not until the 1950s when tastes were moving This book was produced for professional from fortified wines to the reds and whites we bakers, and includes many tipped-in know today, that Australian wines came back photographs representing ideals of into vogue. various types of bread.

16 102. Australian Wine Board. S mALL upright case 107. Michell, Alexandra, 1940- Life is more pleasant with wine: signposts to Particular picnics / Alexandra Michell; wines, wine buying, wine serving and wine in Australian celebrities photography by John Hay. (Melbourne: cooking / [Australian Wine Board]. (Sydney, Nelson, 1985) N.S.W.: Australian Wine Board, [1955?]) 104. Erlich, Rita. Sandy Michell is the inspiration behind this This book was published as part of a campaign The art of the cake : Paris pâtisseries / Rita exhibition. Sandy studied cooking at Le designed to educate Australians about what Erlich & Mary Newsome. (Toorak, Vic.: Villa Cordon Bleu, La Varenne and Ecole Lenôtre wine to serve and when. Modeste Workshop, 1999) in Paris, and was the owner and chef at Terry’s (later Lynch’s) in South Yarra. She One of Mary Newsome’s beautiful artist’s has written six cookery books. This one 103. Usher’s Hotel (Sydney, N.S.W.) books. This is presented as a box of expensive gives recipes and tips for organising picnics Exclusive cocktails from the recipes of Usher’s “Parisian pâtisseries.” The illustrations are a and other forms of outdoor eating, such as Hotel, Sydney, Australia / illustrations by J.C. series of Mary Newsome’s artworks of cakes pool parties. Bancks. (Sydney: Usher’s Hotel, [193-?]) with descriptive text by Rita Erlich. Cocktails became the fashion in the 105. Dunstan, Don, 1926-1999. C orrIDOR cases period between Don Dunstan’s cookbook / drawings by the wars. In 1931, Robert Ingpen. (Adelaide: Rigby, 1976) Magazines Sydney’s Usher’s Don Dunstan was the Premier of South On display here is a selection from Rare Hotel commissioned Australia in 1967-1968 and 1970-1979. Books magazine holdings, including copies Bancks, the creator He was a charismatic figure with a of The Epicurean, “the official magazine of of the comic strip cosmopolitan image. His cookbook the Wine and Food Society of Australia,” Meggs, to includes many international dishes. which ran from 1966 to 1996. illustrate a booklet After retirement from politics he opened for their cocktail a restaurant, “Don’s Table” in Adelaide, recipes. in 1994. Music and Multimedia Display Case (Ground 106. Alexander, Stephanie, 1940- Floor) Stephanie’s feasts and stories / Stephanie Alexander. (Sydney: Allen & Unwin/Haynes, International cookery 1988) On display is a selection of cookbooks of Stephanie Alexander is probably the best-known international cuisine. Additionally, the Asian Australian cook. Her first book, Stephanie’s Studies Research Collection holds Asian Menus for Food Lovers, appeared in 1985. language cookbooks, several of which Feasts and Stories was her third book. The are on display on the floor below. recipes included are drawn from her travels and present food as an international experience.

17 (London, 1901) comprising informationforthemistress,housekeeper, cook,kitchenmaid, butler, governess Cover image:Illustrationfrom Mrs.IsabellaBeeton’s Thebookofhouseholdmanagement: books librarians.Formore informationvisitwww.lib.monash.edu/rare. collection provides areading room forresearchers andissupportedbyateamofrare or physicalbeauty. HousedintheSirLouisMathesonLibraryonClaytoncampus, The Rare BooksCollection comprises materialconsidered rare becauseofage,uniqueness Director, CentralServices:JanetteBurke Director, Macmillan ClientServices(Science,HealthandEngineering):Wilna Director, ClientServices(HumanitiesandSocialSciences):LisaSmith Director, InformationResources: SuzanneClarke University Librarian:CathrineHarboe-Ree www.lib.monash.edu.Visit through theeffective discoveryanduseofinformationforeducationresearch. locations andacollectionofmore than3.2millionitems.TheLibraryadvancesscholarship Monash UniversityLibraryisoneofAustralia’s leadingacademiclibraries,withmultiple

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