Spring 2014 sizzleThe American Culinary Federation Quarterly for Students of Cooking

develop vegetable explore the rediscovery business skills cuisine of England menu trend sizzle features The American Culinary Federation NExt Quarterly for Students of Cooking 16 Minding Your Own Publisher issue American Culinary Federation, Inc. Business Skills • Chefs reveal their best career-beginning Editor-in-Chief Beyond cooking, plan to learn as much as you can decisions. Jody Shee about spreadsheets, profit-and-loss statements, math, • Learn the latest snack trends. Senior Editor computer programs and marketing in order to succeed. • Discover what it takes to Kay Orde 22 Veggie Invasion run a food truck. Senior Graphic Designer David Ristau Vegetables are becoming increasingly important on restaurant menus, especially as variety expands Graphic Designer and consumers become more health-conscious. Caralyn Farrell

Director of Communications 28 Food Companies Hire Chefs Patricia A. Carroll Discover why the employee turnover rate is so low among chefs who work in corporate

Contributing Editors positions for food manufacturers. Rob Benes Suzanne Hall Ethel Hammer Karen Weisberg departments 16 22 28 Direct all editorial, advertising and subscription inquiries to: American Culinary Federation, Inc. 4 President’s Message 180 Center Place Way ACF president Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, discusses seizing all opportunities. St. Augustine, FL 32095 (800) 624-9458 [email protected] 6 Amuse-Bouche Student news, opportunities and more. Subscribe to Sizzle: www.acfchefs.org/sizzle 8 Slice of Life For information about ACF Jennifer Heggen walks us through a memorable day in her internship as pastry commis certification and membership, at Thomas Keller Restaurant Group’s Bouchon Bistro/Bakery in Yountville, Calif. go to www.acfchefs.org. 10 Classical V. Modern Edward G. Leonard, CMC, WGMC, FSP, AAC, and Pietro Vitelli, CCE, demonstrate

facebook.com/ACFChefs @acfchefs the perennial Italian favorite meal, osso buco with gremolata and risotto alla Milanese,

Sizzle: The American Culinary Federation Quarterly two ways. Learn the basic procedures, then try it for yourself. for Students of Cooking (ISSN 1548-1441), Spring Volume 11, Number 1, is owned by the American 34 By Degrees Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Kevin C. Clarke, CCE, JD, shows how to make gnocchi piedmontese. Augustine, FL 32095. Send email address changes to Sizzle at [email protected]. All rights reserved. Reproduction without written permission 36 Events of the publisher is forbidden. All views and opinions Save the dates for the 2014 American Culinary Federation regional conferences. expressed in Sizzle are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of 40 International Flavors the officers, employees, contractors or members of the American Culinary Federation. Suzanne Campbell, CEC, discusses the nuances of the cuisine from her native Cumbria, England. 44 The Interview Award-winning Denver chef Jennifer Jasinski explains how working for Wolfgang Puck for 11 years helped to shape her career. 48 The Quiz Read this issue? Now test your knowledge.

49 Last Bite Cover photo by Portland, Ore., chefs offer local dining picks. Visual Cuisines

2 Sizzle Spring 14 Whether it’s an expanding national bar/restaurant, a leading smoothie company or one of the world’s largest specialty beverage chains, they all choose Vitamix to help them save time, save money and grow their businesses. And all the while delivering high-quality, consistently wonderful tasting menu items for all who visit them. That is one powerful secret ingredient.

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Seize All Opportunities By Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC

Hello, young culinarians, be part of this great learning My door is always open. I experience. This year’s encourage you to email me at Spring is just around the national convention will be [email protected] with corner, closer than you think. in Kansas City, Mo., and we any questions or comments. Soon it will be time to start have held student registration planting your garden. Spring In closing, congratulations rates the same as last year. is a wonderful time in the to those of you who are The national convention is culinary world. Why don’t graduating this year. What a a great opportunity for you you consider doing your part? great accomplishment. to network with some of the Plant some sort of vegetables Sincerely, or herbs in your dorm room country’s top chefs. It will or apartment. Actually, it be loaded with education, would be great if, at your food and fun. Let’s leave the Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC school, you could have a part politics at home and embrace the future. National President in maintaining a sustainable American Culinary Federation future for all of us. Please take a fresh look at Product Specialist Manager/ Food Fanatics™ Chef I know that many of you ACF’s resources, which are US Foods, Inc., Philadelphia are getting ready for the available for your benefit. We 2014 ACF conferences and are updating the web page competitions: the Baron H. to include more information Galand Culinary Knowledge on jobs and current cooking Bowl, Student Team trends. Check it out from Championship and Student time to time, as it will take Chef of the Year. I applaud all about six months to fully of you who take the time to update the site.

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News & Opportunities

clarification, in August 2013, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration defined gluten-free as food items containing less than 20 parts per million of gluten.

foodservice editorial scholarship Patricia Dahms (right), a student at Oregon Culinary Institute, Portland, Ore., was awarded the $1,500 Anita Fial Scholarship 2015 Bocuse d’Or USA at the International Foodservice Editorial Team Announced Council (IFEC) conference in Portland Philip Tessier (right), executive sous in October 2013. The scholarship was chef at The French Laundry, Yountville, established in honor of retired IFEC Calif., and his commis Skylar Stover, member Anita Fial (left) and is awarded chef de partie, are going for gold. The each year to a culinary student in the host pair was chosen by the Bocuse d’Or city of IFEC’s annual conference. USA Foundation’s board of directors The 2014 IFEC conference will be to represent the U.S. at the World held in Dallas in November. Culinary Cooking Contest in Lyon, France, in students in the Dallas/Fort Worth 2015. The Bocuse d’Or is among the area can apply for the scholarship by most demanding international cooking contacting the IFEC office (ifec@aol. competitions, pitting chefs from 24 com) or Jason Stemm at PadillaCRT countries against one another in a ([email protected]). 5½-hour cooking challenge in front of thousands of cheering fans. gluten-free figures The article “Gluten-Free Succeeds” in As they train for the competition, follow the winter 2013 issue of Sizzle stated, the team’s progress on the Bocuse d’Or “The threshold for gluten intolerance is USA Foundation’s Facebook Page or via @ 25 micrograms of gluten a day…” For BocusedOrUSA on Twitter and Instagram.

6 Sizzle Spring 14 amuse-bouche news & opportunities hot themes tryouts are on for 2016 Winners of the regional cold-food The National Restaurant Association’s ACF Culinary Youth presentations will move on to the hot- What’s Hot in 2014 Culinary Forecast Team USA food tryout at the 2014 ACF National Convention in Kansas City, Mo., July 25-29. provides a snapshot of what nearly 1,300 Thirteen cooks chef-members of the American Culinary have accepted the Once members of the 2016 youth team Federation ranked as the predicted hot challenge and are are named, they can expect to join ACF themes for this year in foods, cuisines, trying out for a Culinary National Team USA at practices beverages and culinary, per a survey spot on 2016 ACF in August and begin their quest for gold conducted in fall 2013. Notice the top 10 Culinary Youth in 2016. Those trying out at their regional hottest trends: Team USA. After the conferences are as follows. 1. Locally sourced meats and seafood tryouts, five cooks ƒƒ Western Regional Conference, 2. Locally grown produce and two alternates 3. Environmental sustainability will be named to Oakland, Calif., March 3: Daniel 4. Healthful kids’ meals the youth team that Acuna, CC, Megan Bamford, Alex 5. Gluten-free cuisine will compete at the Dispence, CC, and Joshua Page, all 6. Hyper-local sourcing (e.g., restaurant 2016 Internationale line cooks at The Vintage Club, Indian gardens) Kochkunst Ausstellung Wells, Calif.; and Scott Seeberger, 7. Children’s nutrition in Erfurt, Germany. student ambassador, Oregon Coast 8. Non-wheat noodles/pasta (e.g. quinoa, Culinary Institute, Coos Bay, Ore. rice, buckwheat) Candidates were chosen following a ƒƒ Central Regional Conference, St. 9. Sustainable seafood rigorous application process in which, Louis, March 17: Kristyn Jean 10. Farm/estate branded items for the first time, individuals were Chatlosh, student, Joliet Junior allowed to try out. Previously, culinary if it quacks like College, Joliet, Ill. a duck… school teams tried out. To complete the application process, the chosen ƒƒ Northeast Regional Conference, It must be a duck recipe contest. Culinary candidates will present a cold-food platter Providence, R.I., April 12: Brett students are invited to enter the 2014 at their respective 2014 ACF regional Brennan, CC, sous chef, Oshun, Discover Duck Recipe Contest sponsored conferences. Buffalo, N.Y.; Tracy Morris, line cook, by Maple Leaf Farms Inc. But a warning, The Vintage Club; Jesus Olmedo, line the recipe must include a Maple Leaf The tryout format change was made cook, Somerset Club, Boston; and Farms White Pekin duck product, and it to allow every student ACF member Trae Shriner, student ambassador, must present the duck in a nontraditional who met the application criteria an Oregon Coast Culinary Institute. way. In other words, get creative and don’t opportunity to get involved, says J. Kevin ƒ submit a recipe for roasted whole duck or Walker, CMC, AAC, ACF Culinary Youth ƒ Southeast Regional Conference, sauteed and sauced duck breast. “Boring!” Team USA manager. “We realize that this Charleston, S.C., April 27: Derek says the company. new format does present some challenges, Colglazier, line cook, Cherokee Town and Country Club, Atlanta; Students can submit up to three recipes, but we feel that it gives us the best Jordon Gardiner, fish cook, Zebra but only one prize will be awarded to a opportunity to include as many young Restaurant and Fine Catering, contestant. The recipes can be for any part members as possible in the process.” Charlotte, N.C.; and Lydia Ross, CC, of a meal, such as soup, sandwich, salad, The judges will be looking for more than teaching assistant, Johnson & Wales appetizer, entree or dessert. The entry technique and skill. “What is important is deadline is June 6, 2014, for a chance to University, Charlotte, N.C. attitude, passion, energy and a willingness to win the $2,500 cash grand prize or one of learn,” says Walker. “The youth team is just above: J. Kevin Walker, CMC, AAC four $500 cash prizes. that, a team, and we must make sure that For more information or to enter the contest, all members understand that their success visit www.mapleleaffarms.com/chefcontest. relies on everyone working together.” www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 7 slice of life jennifer heggen slice of life 3:00 p.m. I select a Bouchon Bakery chef jacket and blue apron, clock in and clear the station before setting up for production. My list of tasks Jennifer Heggen includes scaling, mixing and scooping 1.5-times the chocolate chunk recipe, internship cutting nutter cookies and getting all the baked goods prepared and baked In November 2013, I completed a for tomorrow. My goal is to have all 2 ½–month internship as pastry viennoiserie items on the rack, double- commis at Thomas Keller Restaurant wrapped in plastic, before 3:40. Group’s French inspired Bouchon Bistro/Bakery, Yountville, Calif. This was my goal on entering culinary school, and I was lucky enough to relocate to Napa Valley for the internship. In addition to bakery items, the pastry team prepares 3 pm 4 pm desserts for Bouchon Bistro, a one- star Michelin-rated restaurant. age most interesting 3:40 p.m. 45 lesson learned I’m done and ready to roll the I learned how to work with a sense 20-rack viennoiserie items education of urgency at all times. Bouchon into the oven room. I organize 1993 graduate of the University Bakery has incredible production items so that the bake can be of Montana, Missoula, with a requirements, serving up to 1,000 accomplished in two rounds bachelor’s degree in organizational people a day from an extremely of oven use. I’m mindful that communication and a minor in German; small kitchen with only one 20- I must share oven time with 2013 graduate of Missoula College, rack oven. I learned a tremendous the bread team. Missoula, culinary arts program. amount about organization, time management and production. why there? I attended Missoula College Culinary career plans Arts program because it was My current plans are to open a convenient, affordable and had a bakery/bistro in Missoula within the small class size. next 18 months.

8 Sizzle Spring 14 4:00 p.m. 6:00 p.m. I am dragged off my 5:30 p.m. I scale cornbread, station to the employee My first baking rack mix muffins and area along with all chefs is in the oven with prep coffeecakes and front-of-house staff 312 cookies and 450 and scones. from the Bistro and Bakery. bouchons. I take10 Champagne flutes are minutes to eat my set up and a bucket of family meal, bangers 8:00 p.m. champagne is chilling. I and mash with salad. I mix the dough and set it aside to am confused and worried, Tasty. I find another scoop. My teammates are going because my timeline is rack, prep more to help scoop. I bake off the tight. The next thing I know, sheet trays and start remaining goods. I need to free general manager and chef preparing the 223 up the oven as soon as possible. Michael Sandoval offers muffins, coffeecakes, up a toast to the entire bread puddings staff for again receiving a and scones. Eight one-star Michelin rating. minutes into baking, 10:30 p.m. The French Laundry also I need to round the It’s time to clean up. I received its three stars. It is cookies. I also need scrub all surfaces and oil a proud time to be part of to make a sheet tray the tables, getting things the Bouchon family. of cornbread for the “Thomas Keller clean.” family meal tomorrow. I grab a family meal and clock out by 11:30 p.m.

5 pm 6 pm 7 pm 8 pm 9 pm 10 pm 11 pm

5:35 p.m. The cookie/bouchon rack is done. 9:00 p.m. I consolidate product. The bread I consolidate all goods and finish with sugars and glazes. All the team needs my baking rack. baked goods are placed on a 20-rack, covered in plastic, and the rack is rolled into the retail area. It’s time to make and store the 62 4:15 p.m. fruit croissants for the morning crew to bake, then, I have to cut 440 nutter cookies. I can only get to 220. The rest will have to wait. Time to prepare for piping. There are only 450 bouchons to pipe today, easily done in 30 minutes, 7:00 p.m. but the family meal is at 4:30, so It’s time to clean up I need to ask a teammate to get my station and scale a plate for me. My fellow chefs the chocolate chunk are always willing to assist, and recipe. I arrange to the sense of family is strong. use the 80-quart Dinner can wait, covered, under Hobart mixer. I can Jennifer Heggen the prep area, until my first rack use it anytime before became expert at is in the oven. 8:30 p.m. making bouchons.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 9 classical v. modern osso buco classical v. modern

o an Italian, osso buco he says. A slice of crusty bread are essential. “You cannot is the ultimate comfort to smother the seasoned jump into sous vide, molecular T food. The slow-braised marrow and soak up the sauce and other styles of cuisine veal shanks make mouths is a true Italian touch. without understanding solid water and stomachs rumble cooking methodology and while waiting for the dish to Vitelli is happy to share flavor profiles that are not finally emerge from the oven. a classic recipe for Veal only done with seasonings, It’s one of those dishes that Osso Buco with Gremolata aromatics and spices, but also everyone is at the table on and Risotto alla Milanese, by proper cooking.” time for, says Pietro Vitelli, something he believes is CCE, a culinary instructor at important for culinary In his modern dish, Leonard Le Cordon Bleu College of students to learn for the examined each classic Culinary Arts, Scottsdale, Ariz., multiple techniques required ingredient and asked if there and a first-generation Italian. to master it. was a way to improve on it. For He identifies it as a Northern example, he used cake flour Italy Lombardian dish that is The dish’s classic comfort-food rather than all-purpose flour to incomplete without gremolata moorings might make it off- coat the veal shanks and didn’t and risotto. limits to contemporary tweaks, resort to basic salt and pepper something Edward G. Leonard, to season, choosing kosher To most cooks, veal shanks CMC, WGMC, FSP, AAC, salt and black Tellicherry are not an everyday item. founder of Chef Edward’s peppercorns instead. The muscle is tough and Restaurant Group, LLC, dense, containing collagen, Chicago, didn’t take lightly Braising is the customary method to tenderize the veal requiring braising to tenderize. when he developed his modern shanks, which Leonard kept In Vitelli’s estimation, the rendition, Veal Osso Buco Sous intact. But he took his version aromatics of the mirepoix Vide with Gremolata-Stuffed a step further by slicing and along with the acidity of the Parsnip “Bones” and Risotto portioning the braised meat tomatoes and white wine bring alla Milanese. together a tender, succulent and applying the sous vide meal. Risotto complements The challenge with modern method of tenderizing. cuisine, Leonard says, is the osso buco with a hint of His end result is likely to hit saffron. “But the prize of the keeping the foundation true the spot and then some with dish lies in the gremolata to the original flavor profiles, any osso-buco-loving diner. top: Edward G. Leonard and the bone marrow, which which is where knowledge, bottom: Pietro Vitelli enrich and season the meal,” education and craftsmanship

10 Sizzle Spring 14 classical modern Veal Osso Buco with Gremolata and Risotto Veal Osso Buco Sous Vide with Gremolata-Stuffed alla Milanese 1. It takes at least 2½ hours to braise Parsnip “Bones” and Risotto alla Milanese 1. While the veal shanks. To check for tenderness, insert a clean the veal is braised in traditional fashion, the osso buco gets fork through the veal shank meat. There should be no further attention by slicing and portioning the meat and resistance. 2. The osso buco is topped with gremolata applying the sous vide method of tenderizing. 2. A unique made with lemon peel, garlic, parsley and anchovies. component of the modern version is this mock bone, which 3. The recipe gets much of its flavor from the risotto is a gremolata-stuffed parsnip. The parsnip is peeled, cut ingredients, which, among other things, features the bone and shaped into marrow "bones," center punched and marrow and crushed saffron. For added richness, the cooked in broth before it is stuffed. 3. Rather than using risotto is finished with butter and Parmesan cheese. But arborio rice, the modern risotto version is made with vialone the real key to success is constant stirring of the rice to nano rice. The recipe also is unique with the addition of pull all the starch out. grapeseed oil and heavy cream. The rectangle shape of the rice presentation is achieved with the use of a template. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 11 classical v. modern osso buco classical Pietro Vitelli says he isn’t looking with salt before braising them. “The Method: Risotto alla Milanese for any particular future culinary dish has to be approached correctly in 1 . Preheat oven to 350°F. Tie veal Ingredients: destination. He simply loves the the beginning, because you’ll taste it shanks firmly with butcher’s 3 cups chicken stock journey he is on—cooking everything in the end,” he says. twine. Season with salt and 2 T. butter he can. But part of his journey pepper; dredge in flour. 2 oz. onion, minced may lead to CMC heights, as he is He believes culinary students need to 2 . Heat large skillet; add ¼ cup veal bone marrow, sliced currently seeking a Certified Master develop braising experience as well as enough olive oil to cover 1 cup arborio rice Chef candidacy. using less-common cuts of meat such bottom of pan and brown ¼ cup white wine 1 as veal shanks. veal shank. Turn on all sides; ∕8 t. crushed saffron In 1993, he graduated from The add oil, as needed. 2 T. butter, softened There’s also a key to risotto success, Culinary Institute of America, 3 . Select shallow braising ¼ cup Parmesan cheese which is constant stirring. “This pulls Hyde Park, N.Y., where he was pan large enough to fit Salt and pepper, to taste all the starch out of that short-grain part of the Mid Hudson Culinary veal shanks snuggly. Place rice. When you do that and use the Association culinary team that earned pan on moderate heat; Method: right amount of liquid, you get a a gold medal in New York State melt butter. Add onion, 1 . In saucepot, bring chicken beautiful, silky finish. I seldom finish and a silver medal in the Northeast celery, carrot and garlic. stock to a simmer; keep over with butter. Butter is not what the regionals. Later he went on to earn a Stir occasionally for about low heat. dish is about,” he says. 10 minutes until vegetables Bachelor of Business Administration 2 . In saute pan on medium achieve a little color. Reserve. Management from American Vitelli’s greatest advice for those heat, melt butter. Sweat InterContinental University online. 4 . Add browned veal shanks to onion (no color). who would make osso buco is to braising pan. Deglaze skillet have patience. “People think there’s 3 . Once onion is translucent, Vitelli spent his culinary career with wine; remove fond. add sliced bone marrow something wrong with Italians. Add deglazed fond, stock, working in the greater Phoenix area and rice. Stir rice to coat We take too long to cook our food. tomatoes, thyme and bay at the likes of John Gardiner’s Tennis with fat. You’re hungry, and you want to eat. leaves to braising pan. Bring Ranch and Lon’s at the Hermosa 4 . Add wine; continue to stir But it’s worth the wait. Get quality to a boil. before joining the staff at Le Cordon until absorbed. ingredients, and take the time to cook 5 . Cover and place in oven Bleu six years ago. 5 . Gradually add stock in 2- to correctly,” he says. for approximately 2½ hours 3-oz. increments. Stir rice or until fork-tender (larger He loves competing, and in June continuously until stock is shanks may take longer). To 2012, he was part of the hot-food Veal Osso Buco absorbed. category gold-medal-winning Team check for tenderness, insert with Gremolata and 6 . Add saffron; add another clean fork through veal Le Cordon Bleu USA, led by Edward 2-3 oz. stock. Stir until Risotto alla Milanese shank meat. There should Leonard, competing in Beijing at absorbed. Continue Yield: 4 servings be no resistance. the First International Culinary process until rice is cooked Osso Buco 6 . Once tender, carefully remove Competition. Vitelli is head coach al dente. Finish rice with Ingredients: osso buco from braising pan. for his school’s student team, which softened butter and 4 veal shanks, cut 2½ inches Reserve, covered. earned a bronze medal in 2013 in Parmesan cheese; season Salt and pepper, to season 7 . With spoon, push sauce Coeur d'Alene, Idaho, at the ACF with salt and pepper. Flour, to coat though chinois into Western Regional Conference. 4 T. butter saucepan. Reduce by half. To serve: Describing his classic Veal Osso 1 cup small-diced onion 8 . Season; reserve. 1 . Place one portion risotto ½ cup small-diced celery Buco with Gremolata and Risotto alla Milanese on bottom of ½ cup small-diced carrot Gremolata alla Milanese recipe, Vitelli notes that casserole dish. 1 garlic clove, sliced Ingredients: bone marrow is a necessary part of the 2 . Place osso buco on top of ¼ cup olive oil 1 T. finely chopped lemon peel dish, for its rich flavor. And the dish risotto, sauce, and top with 1 cup dry white wine 1 t. minced garlic would not be authentic or as tasty gremolata and bone marrow. 1½ cups white stock 3 T. chopped parsley without gremolata with its palate- 3 . Serve with bone marrow fork. cleansing parsley and salty anchovies. 2 bay leaves 2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped 1 sprig fresh thyme Knowing that these flavors will be 1½ cups canned tomatoes, Method: brought to the dish later, he warns peeled, chopped Combine all ingredients; reserve against over-seasoning the veal shanks Salt and pepper, to taste for service.

12 Sizzle Spring 14 classical v. modern osso buco modern Edward Leonard has had a long but then raised the bar by compressing 3 cups veal stock Gremolata and successful foodservice career the meat using sous vide and adding 1 sprig fresh thyme Ingredients: with many memorable moments, toasted garlic and kale chips. 2 bay leaves 1 T. minced lemon zest including on stage cooking, sharing 2 parsnips, peeled, cut and 1 t. minced garlic his passion or accepting an award “Once you understand the cuisine shaped into marrow “bones,” 3 T. chopped Italian parsley in the U.S., Europe or Asia. He and master the basic competencies, center punched Bone marrow from shank bones 2 cups chicken or veal broth managed ACF Culinary Team USA then the creative process has a solid Method: 3 T. cold butter from 1998 to 2008, leading a team of foundation from which to work, and Combine all ingredients well. Garlic and kale chips for garnish U.S. chefs to cook on an international you can produce food that is worth Stuff in parsnip “bones.” stage every four years in Germany experiencing,” he says. Method: Risotto alla Milanese at the Internationale Kochkunst 1 . Preheat oven to 375°F. Tie Ingredients: With a firm grasp of what is sensible Ausstellung (IKA) International veal shanks firmly with 2 T. butter yet creative, his modern recipe features Culinary Exhibition, also known as butcher’s twine. Season with 1 T. grapeseed oil the “culinary Olympics.” He notes a parsnip that is cut and cooked to salt and pepper. Dredge in 1 large shallot, minced that one of his proudest moments look like a bone. “I carved the marrow flour; shake off excess. 1 cup vialone nano rice was standing on the stage in 2004 bone out of parsnip, poached it in 2 . Heat large stainless steel ¼ cup white wine at the IKA seeing and hearing the veal broth and butter, then mixed the skillet; add butter and olive 3 cups chicken broth (rich national anthem played as Team gremolata with bone marrow from the oil. Brown veal shanks on quality—hot) both sides. Reserve 1 USA won the world championship in original marrow bones and filled the ∕6 t. (approximately) crushed the hot-food competition. parsnip ‘bone,’” he says. 3 . Add more olive oil, if needed. Spanish saffron Brown onion, carrot and ¼ cup heavy cream More recently, in November 2013, He believes the bonus of his garlic 6-10 minutes. Add 3 T. cold diced butter Leonard was team captain of the version is the ease with which the celery and tomato puree; ¼ cup aged Parmigiano- ACF culinary competition team customer can eat it. There is nothing cook 2-3 minutes. Add white Reggiano cheese wine; simmer 2-3 minutes. that received a gold medal at complicated about anything on the Kosher salt and pepper, to taste 4 . Add shanks and stock with the Dubai World Hospitality plate. It keeps intact the spirit and Method: thyme and bay leaves; bring Championship 2013, which gave flavor of traditional osso buco, but 1 . In stainless steel heavy pan, to a simmer. Cover. Put in oven; the U.S. second place overall in the with subtle twists. add oil and butter; sweat cook 3-3½ hours, until tender. international competition. shallots. 5 . Bring veal or chicken broth 2 . Add rice. Stir with wooden Veal Osso Buco Sous to a simmer in stainless steel Back in the U.S., Leonard is spoon until rice is coated saucepan; add parsnip distinguished as 2001-05 ACF Vide with Gremolata- with fat. “bone.” Cook until just 3 . Deglaze rice with wine. Cook national president, and is one of only Stuffed Parsnip tender. Remove from broth; on medium heat; continue 67 Certified Master Chefs in the U.S. “Bones” and Risotto prepare to fill. to stir until wine is absorbed. 6 . When shanks are tender, alla Milanese 4 . Add half the broth; stir His biggest career highlight, he says, remove cover. Increase oven Yield: 4 servings continuously until absorbed. is seeing the success of others who, temperature to 425°F; cook Add remaining broth and in a small, medium or large way, he’s Osso Buco additional 20 minutes. Ingredients: saffron. been able to influence, open a door 7 . Remove osso buco; cool 5 . Continue cooking and for, coach or mentor, providing them 4 Strauss veal shanks, slightly. Slice all meat from stirring until rice is creamy with an opportunity to succeed. cut 2½-3 inches bones. Remove bone and al dente. “Touching lives is the greatest medal Kosher salt and black marrow; reserve. Place shank 6 . Fold in cream, cold butter and you can garner,” he says. Tellicherry peppercorns, meat in stainless steel bowl. cheese; season with kosher ground, to season 8 . Place pan on burner. salt and pepper, to taste. There’s only one imaginable Cake flour, to coat Reduce stock by one-third. achievement left—to have a 2 T. butter Put in blender; puree. Whisk To serve: restaurant for which he works receive 2 T. olive oil in cold butter. Using template and offset a Michelin star. 1 cup small-diced sweet onion 9 . Fold half sauce into shank spatula, place risotto on plate; 2 ∕3 cup small-diced carrot meat; season. Portion into spread. Open bag of braised For his modern Veal Osso Buco Sous 1 garlic clove, sliced vacuum bags. Compress osso buco; place on risotto base. Vide with Gremolata-Stuffed Parsnip ½ cup small-diced celery in vacuum pack machine Drizzle with sauce and extra virgin “Bones” and Risotto alla Milanese 1 cup Italian tomato puree as directed by machine olive oil; place parsnip on plate. recipe, Leonard chose to adhere to the passata instructions. Keep warm in Top with garlic and kale chips. standard cooking and braising process, ¾ cup dry white wine warmer box or circulator.

14 Sizzle Spring 14

Minding Your Own Business Skills

While in school, take advantage of every business- learning resource and opportunity. It will come in handy later. // by Karen Weisberg

ravo! Your escargots would earn a grudging “excellent” from Escoffier, your rabbit adobo stew B should rate a rousing cheer from Rick Bayless, and Julia Child might well have celebrated your version of her iconic coq au vin. But it’s no secret that in today’s professional world, being a good cook is not enough to ensure success.

Someday your charge may also include managing day-to- day activities as well as planning and achieving long- term operational goals. Business skills are essential.

Spreadsheets For starters: “The Excel spreadsheet is probably the most important document in your entire career—almost more important than your menu,” says Jeremy Ashby, executive chef at AZUR Restaurant & Patio, Louisville, Ky. He is one of four owners of the AZUR Restaurant Group, also serving as executive chef for the enterprise. A proponent of the Excel spreadsheet, he says, “It tells you everything about your menu—your costs, purveyors, etc. It’s the source-code for everything you do.”

He clearly recalls taking a menu planning and cost control course and getting a spreadsheet from the restaurant where he worked. He suggests asking the chef at your venue for a copy of the Excel spreadsheet, and then playing with it for a bit until you fully understand it.

Someone may have to explain how to

& Patio AZUR Restaurant read a financial statement to help you understand how operating expenses affect the bottom line. You may think of Courtesy you’re running certain costs, but you Count your costs have to get your profit and loss (P&L) Mine the Computer Jeremy Ashby, executive chef statements (i.e., income statements and at AZUR Restaurant & Patio, balance sheet) within 10 days of the first Knowledge of computer programs is Louisville, Ky., offers these of the month, he says. “It’s the only way vastly important, says Brian Sonoskus, business-cost tips and goals to who, for the past 13 years, has served as keep in mind as a benchmark you can properly navigate your company for when you launch your career. in the right direction—it shows you a executive chef of Tupelo Honey Cafe, snapshot so you can react quickly to Asheville, N.C., a growing chain of seven Labor costs should run casual-dining certified-green restaurants. between 18% and 22%, not rectify a problem.” including management. PowerPoint is one program he urges Food costs should not exceed Brand Marketing students to master to create compelling 38%. “You may be taught that Marketing is another competency high presentations. He notes that Microsoft food cost should be about provides online tutorials. “When we’re 32%, but there’s another way on Ashby’s list of need-to-have business to look at the bottom line,” skills. When he’s not at the restaurant, he going to meetings, frequently, we’re in Ashby says. If, for example, might be hosting the local radio program, different cities, yet we have to present an elk rack has a food cost of “Sunny Side Up,” or be in the midst of pictures and graphs,” he says. All Tupelo 50%, but you can make $22.50 each time you sell it, you have shooting the hometown television show, Honey Cafe’s recipes, plating and to take into account how the “Food News and Chews.” Both shows are procedure training is available to staff as menu will perform. How many designed to promote restaurants, chefs, PowerPoint presentations. chicken dishes with an 18% farmers, food and community growth food cost will you sell versus For the purpose of training new hires, in the Bluegrass Region, as well as the the elk rack with the 50% food Sonoskus often relies on back-office cost? Grasping that can take Ashby and AZUR brands. some time, but you’ll see it on restaurant software WhenToManage, the profit-and-loss statement. He suggests social networking with which provides time- and money- your closest friends, family and culinary saving applications, including employee school friends. Pair up with a blogger. scheduling, inventory management and Feed freelance writers who can spread point-of-sale connections linking multiple the attributes of your dishes. Ultimately, locations and different POS systems. “We find a way to stand out from the crowd. put our food costs/schedules/training

18 Sizzle Spring 14 materials, etc., out there and give new hires the password. We tell them to go home and educate themselves at night regarding who we are [as a company] and what we do,” he says.

Vendors also have computer programs to master. For example, Sonoskus uses Sysco’s Windstar program (designed by Inventory Systems Software). He simply types in an ingredient to find a current price. Simultaneously, prices of all recipes and menu items are updated in seconds. It previously took an entire day to check price fluctuations by going through back invoices. Now it’s all done automatically by computer. & Patio AZUR Restaurant It may have saved him enough time to create his second cookbook, Tupelo of Courtesy Honey Cafe: New Southern Flavors from the Blue Ridge Mountains, slated for they have to know the business. Her publication in spring 2014 by Andrews goal is to always clarify the “why.” McMeel Publishing. To that end, for most culinary students, Neuneker advocates the more hands-on, Get Over Math Phobia active-learning simulation applications. Associate professor Alisa Neuneker, “We do have a simulated type of activity MS, CHE, The Culinary Institute of in our financial accounting class where, America, Hyde Park, N.Y., teaches a for example, they can enter an electric management accounting class and bill or a food bill from a vendor to a foodservice technology course, see what happens to their financial helping students see the bigger picture statements when they do that. It kind of of how to mesh culinary skills with makes it fun,” she says. such business skills as controlling above: Leadership skills are necessary to food and beverage costs, pricing menu Neuneker believes that students not conduct pre-service items and controlling labor and other only need to take culinary and business courses, they need to have good work staff meetings, as does operating expenses. Jeremy Ashby, executive experiences where they can find a chef at AZUR Restaurant Although she finds such computer mentor. “To have a mentor, formal & Patio, Louisville, Ky. programs as Excel spreadsheets to be or informal, is so helpful in bridging opposite right: Elise “great low-cost tools,” she understands some of those gaps. Actually, part of Wiggins, executive chef that many students have a math phobia. our curriculum is a great externship and a proprietor of She tells them that if they want a program plus a faculty/alumni mentor Panzano, Denver. Photo business to be successful, or if they want program,” she says. by Dusty Volkel to move up to a management position, www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 19 NExt issue best career- begining decisions

Business Resources Subscribe to and read a variety of trade magazines, including:

ƒƒ Restaurant Startup & Growth (Helping Restaurants Profit and Grow) (www. rsgmag.com) ƒƒ Nation’s Restaurant News (www.nrn.com) ƒƒ Food Management (www.food- Everyone wants to be perceived as a nice management.com) person, Wiggins says. “But you need your ƒƒ PLATE (www.plateonline.com) staff to execute the dish just like you do. ƒƒ To find a more thorough list of foodservice Your job is to make sure they execute to trade magazines, visit the International

America Foodservice Editorial Council website, the highest level, and you have to know www.ifeconline.com, and click on the tab how to handle that emotional part of it.” “who belongs?” Take advantage of the National Restaurant To find a mentor chef to help teach these Association’s business tools and opportunities: things, Wiggins suggests drawing up a ƒƒ Attend the annual National Restaurant short list of the most successful chefs in of The Culinary Institute Association Restaurant, Hotel-Motel Show town, preferably those in business awhile held in Chicago each May (http://show. and operating multiple locations. That restaurant.org/Home). ƒƒ Management development program of Courtesy probably indicates the chef is a good trainer who can get people to perform. Ask that (http://managefirst.restaurant.org):The program equips students with the key Manage People chef what time you can come and shadow competencies they need to begin or Learning how to manage restaurant staff is him/her. Then take the wisdom you learn advance their management careers in the foodservice industry. one of the most important yet hardest skills and continuously practice it, Wiggins says. Admit to the chef that you don’t ƒƒ ProStart (www.nraef.org/prostart): Learn to master, says Elise Wiggins, who, for the more about the National Restaurant know everything, and he or she will give past decade, has served as executive chef and Association Educational Foundation’s two- you the world. Every chef—and people in a proprietor of 260-seat Panzano, Denver. year program for high school students that general—love people who are humble. teaches culinary and management skills. ƒƒ Operations (www.restaurant.org/Manage- You don’t need the recipe to bake humble New York-based award-winning journalist My-Restaurant/Operations): Find resources pie, but you do need to swallow your pride, Karen Weisberg has covered the to help make a business run smoothly, productively and profitably. remove your ego from the table, then “eat” issues and luminaries of the food-and- ƒƒ Marketing & Sales (www.restaurant.org/ some, at least figuratively, she says. beverage world—both commercial and Manage-My-Restaurant/Marketing-Sales): noncommercial—for more than 25 years. In every location she has worked, Learn about resources to help engage with customers and drive profitable traffic to Wiggins has polished her people- the restaurant with actionable ideas and top: Brian Sonoskus (center), executive management skills by watching and common-sense tactics. listening to more-experienced chefs. chef at Tupelo Honey Cafe, Asheville, N.C., ƒƒ Control Food Costs (www.restaurant.org/ and staff. Photo by Lynne Caldwell Manage-My-Restaurant/Food-Nutrition/ The challenge is that everyone wants bottom: Alisa Neuneker, MS, CHE, associate Cost-Management/To-control-food-costs,- professor at The Culinary Institute of start-at-the-cook-line) Discover proven tips to be liked, and many chefs have a hard to control food costs. time, because, often, emotion is involved. America, Hyde Park, N.Y.

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OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF THE AMERICAN CULINARY FEDERATION asion Veggie Inv

Vegetables give chefs limitless cooking possibilities.

By Rob Benes egetable offerings on restaurant menus have Vjumped 11% nationally during the past three years. Additionally, 67% of Americans say a vegetable meal can be just as satisfying as a nonveggie version. Impressive among vegetables is kale, which has seen a remarkable 400% increase in mentions on restaurant menus over the past five years, according to Chicago-based research company Technomic.

In 2013, USA Today reported that restaurants of all stripes are starting to take vegetables seriously. Applebee’s now serves 40% of its kids’ meals with veggies; just a few years ago, 80% of its kids’ meals came with fries. Group Restaurant of Bagby Courtesy “This is a game changer for chefs,” built around french fries and baked says Jeff O’Neill, executive chef for potatoes, both of which can include a Porcão Farm to Grill, Miami. “It’s not variety of toppings and flavors. just that guests are expecting to see attractive and flavorful produce, chefs want to cook with the items, too, popular for because there’s so much more and good reason new produce available.” There’s been a change in social Potatoes have even turned trendy. consciousness regarding produce Some 43% of consumers say they on the restaurant plate. It’s moving increased their potato consumption away from its previous status as in 2012. In fact, 46% say they eat afterthought, served on the side of potatoes several times a week, and the dish with a protein. This shift in 14% eat them daily or more than thinking has been greatly influenced once a day, according to Chicago by the foodservice industry, with research firm Datassential. help from the media, cooking shows and celebrity chefs. Heirloom beet salad Operators have noticed the pop in with Winesap apples, potato interest. “Potato-concept” “The general public, too, is far more pine nut butter, house- restaurants have become a new fast- sophisticated in its knowledge of made yogurt and casual category, with restaurant menus different varieties of produce and borscht sauce. Meanwhile, global gastronomy is influencing consumers. Cuisine in the U.S. previously was driven by middle-European cooking. Now Latin American, Asian and Southern Mediterranean cuisines, where fresh produce plays an important role, have growing influence. The produce supply side also has made it easier for restaurants to serve produce by offering convenient fresh-cut, ready-to-use products, which help reduce labor and minimize injury. Board Potato States of United Courtesy

how to prepare them,” says Bryan wake up to a Silbermann, president and CEO of better breakfast the Produce Marketing Association, Newark, Del. Breakfast is said to be the most important meal of the day. Those Produce not only provides flavor to who travel for business or pleasure recipes, it adds color, texture and often find it difficult to find both freshness. Produce also helps balance healthy and flavorful foods. This food costs, especially at a time when presents an opportunity for protein costs, especially for beef, are restaurants to step up. on the rise. “Being a hotel visited by travelers, When unusual or exotic vegetables we see more of a demand to have a are mentioned on the menu, menu that does not include the same slightly higher prices are justifiable. type of fare that can be found across Mushrooms are one example. White the country,” says Kyle Rourke, button mushrooms used to be the executive chef at Red Star Tavern norm, but now available are such & Roast House, Portland, Ore. He exotic varieties as black trumpets, takes traditional recipes and makes chanterelles, hedgehogs, morels, them over with fresh produce at center stage. yellow foot, hen of the woods, Trumpet Royale, nebrodini bianco and Eggs Benedict is one item on many hon-shimeji. “These so-called newly breakfast menus coast to coast— found mushrooms add a perceived prepared with pretty much the same value to a recipe that guests are willing ingredients: English muffin, ham or to pay extra for,” Silbermann says. bacon, poached egg and hollandaise

24 Sizzle Spring 14 Grill to Farm of Porcão Courtesy sauce. For his Healthy Benedict, To showcase fresh produce, Porcão Rourke deconstructs the recipe by Farm to Grill has a “Tableside showcasing charred cherry tomatoes, Farmcart,” a rolling raw-food cart that diced avocado and a poached egg, all servers push around the dining room resting in a pool of salsa verde. to each table. Guests choose from an array of items picked that day from He also features a breakfast option local farms, such as crudités, mixed called To Be Frank, made with lettuces and herbs. egg whites, wilted greens, cherry tomatoes, avocado, caramelized The dinner menu also boasts “Farm Yield Veg & Starch,” where guests onions and quinoa. Red Star choose a protein and specially Quiche features black kale, cheese, prepared vegetable. Examples could caramelized onions and bacon. opposite: Potato and be a 6-ounce Florida lobster tail “People have choices on where they Provencal vegetable tart is a paired with braised greens, roasted can stay when traveling,” Rourke says. great way to feature end-of- asparagus, roasted carrots, roasted summer vegetables, which “We want to offer traditional items, cauliflower or another choice. could include alternating thin but with ingredients that are not the “We put as much thought into the layers of potatoes with late- norm and a bit healthier.” vegetables as we do with preparing season eggplant, zucchini, proteins,” O’Neill says. tomatoes and sweet peppers. bring it for dinner above: Griddled corn For example, the restaurant offers cakes topped with shaved Later in the day, produce can elevate griddled corn cakes available as a raw and pickled seasonal dinner selections and make them vegetables, fresh ricotta and main entree or a shared side. The roasted shiitake mushroom equal to any protein choice. “The less corn cakes are made with fresh corn, vinaigrette, can be ordered you do to vegetables, the better they shredded Monterey Jack, chopped as a main entree or a shared are to eat,” O’Neill says. onion and corn flour pancake batter. side at Porcão Farm to Grill. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 25 The dish comes topped with shaved cuts fresh carrots and braises them raw and pickled seasonal vegetables, in the reduction, which infuses fresh ricotta and roasted shiitake concentrated carrot sweetness and mushroom vinaigrette. creates a velvety sauce.

Baltimore’s Fleet Street Kitchen Another restaurant trend is turning allows guests to create their own four- vegetables into an entree. AQ course tasting menu that includes a Restaurant in San Francisco turns first course, vegetable, main dish and kohlrabi, a brawny German turnip, dessert. While the first course, main into kohlrabi bourguignon with notes dish and dessert can be viewed as of horseradish, star anise and red traditional fare, the vegetable choices wine sauce. go a step further. “Fresh produce Superba Snack Bar, Venice, Calif., challenges chefs to cook items in new offers a cauliflower T-bone. It’s a ways, as well as allowing for unique massive slice of the vegetable—thick- plating ideas,” says Chris Becker, cut like a porterhouse—seasoned chief operations officer for Bagby with a puree of basil, citrus and Restaurant Group and executive olives, then seared. chef for Fleet Street Kitchen. “With every new season, there’s a new set of challenges with a new crop.” In winter grow a garden 2013, a few options included salt- Increasingly, restaurants supply their roasted celery root with apple butter, growing need for fresh produce by toasted walnuts and herb broth; becoming landowners and part- roasted butternut squash with spiced time farmers. Bagby Restaurant yogurt, pine nut butter and granola; Group owns Cunningham Farms mushroom stew with a poached farm in Baltimore County, Md., which is egg, ricotta gnudi and pine nuts; and managed by hired farmers. roasted sweet potato with smoked apple, maple pecans and a black The farm evolved when the group’s pepper gastrique. owner Blake Smith grasped guest interest in fresh, locally grown For one dish, Becker pairs seared healthy food. The 80-acre farm halibut with braised carrots, and the grows 15 varieties of tomatoes, 18 carrot preparation is what makes other crops, three types of edible the dish a top-seller, he says. He flowers and 13 herb varieties, as well juices enough carrots to obtain two as raises chickens, all to supply its quarts of liquid, which he reduces restaurants. “We focus on specific to one cup. He emulsifies butter items, such as sun gold tomatoes, into the reduction and adds freshly sugar snap peas, leaf lettuces and squeezed lime. He then peels and microgreens,” Becker says.

26 Sizzle Spring 14 NExt issue snack trends let the kids eat well Kids’ menus are changing in restaurants, with fewer fried foods and more fruits and vegetables. In light of the growing childhood- obesity crisis, restaurants have developed menu items that are not only healthy for kids, but also look and taste great.

ƒƒ Healthful kids’ meals is the fourth hottest menu trend, according to the National Restaurant Association’s & Roast House Tavern (NRA) What’s Hot in 2014 Culinary Forecast. Children’s nutrition is No. 7 on the top 20 trends list. ƒƒ NRA’s Kids LiveWell program addresses healthy eating for of Red Star Courtesy children and enlists more than 41,000 locations of major quick-serves. ƒƒ Ruby Tuesday allows kids to swap out the standard side of fries for grapes, fresh grilled zucchini, apples, fresh green beans, broccoli or mashed potatoes. ƒƒ Rainforest Café menus grilled chicken paired with banana and water; Castaway Kid’s cheese pizza paired with carrot sticks and apple juice; and Python Pasta with marinara sauce paired with applesauce and water. Group Restaurant of Bagby Courtesy top: The Healthy Benedict He and his executive chef team to your back door to look at the served at Red Star Tavern meet regularly with the farmers vegetables. Go to the source, see the & Roast House showcases to discuss how crops are growing items firsthand and talk to the people charred cherry tomatoes, diced avocado and a and production levels, and to get a who are doing the growing—the poached egg all resting in sense of how they can develop and farmer could be the best teacher.” a pool of salsa verde. introduce new recipes. bottom: English pea soup Rob Benes, a Chicago-based journalist, with ricotta, mint, prosciutto Porcão Farm to Grill’s O’Neill says has 11 years of experience writing about chefs, food, wine and spirits for trade, powder, pea tapenade students need to go on field trips to educational and consumer publications. and prosciutto tuile. farms to see what’s in the ground before items are picked. “Don’t wait until the produce order is delivered www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 27 of InHarvest Courtesy

Aspire to Food Company Positions

Some chefs make a satisfying career working for food-product manufacturers.

by Suzanne Hall

orporate chefs working for food Michael Holleman, for example, is director of culinary manufacturers love their jobs. They speak development at InHarvest, Bemidji, Minn. The C of teamwork and a family atmosphere. They company markets specialty grains, beans and other like the satisfaction of knowing that they are helping products. Holleman oversees the company’s culinary their fellow chefs in restaurants, schools and health care solutions center with its team of three chefs. His varied facilities create delicious and nutritious dishes. Their responsibilities include new-product development, jobs pay well. And while travel often is part of the job, creating recipes and introducing the company’s products they still have time for family and outside activities. to new customers. He travels to visit customers and attend trade shows. Above all, he is the face of InHarvest job description to customers. There’s no single job description for a food-company Barry Miles joined Kraft Foodservice, Northfield, Ill., four chef. Duties and responsibilities vary from company to years ago as corporate executive chef. Today he is senior company and position to position. corporate chef, providing culinary support for a number of Courtesy of InHarvest Kraft brands for such national accounts into the kitchen, it’s usually because as Brinker, Burger King and Subway. a regional account or a corporate His background is in fine dining, but distributor is visiting. “Ultimately, my he says he’s done just about everything, goal is to provide operators with the including cleaning grease traps. Today, tools to create great meals and make 95% of his time is spent cooking, money or save money,” he says. usually for customers. He reports to the culinary director as part of a team Not long after graduating from that includes interns, sous chefs and Chicago’s Kendall College in 2007, corporate executive chefs. He travels to Yury Krasilovsky was offered a visit customers and participate in three-month training program, then trade shows. A “big part of my a full-time job as chef-specialist, at job is to stay on top pasta company Barilla America Inc., of the trends,” Bannockburn, Ill. He works directly he says. with Barilla’s executive chef and is responsible for developing recipes C o u rte for websites, print ads and in-store sy o f T ys on promotions. He also collaborates with F oo ds In other food-company chefs to jointly c. develop ideas for Barilla pasta products.

Like other chefs in the food-company segment, he works in support of Training is a big part of David Jetter’s R&D, marketing and public relations. job as corporate chef for Tyson “My days are quite varied,” he says. Food Service, Springdale, Ark. He is “I could be working in the kitchen, responsible for everything culinary training customers how to use our in the foodservice distribution products or traveling to a trade show.” area. “While I am the only chef in foodservice distribution, we have a Monica Coulter started in the research and development (R&D) convenience stores and foodservice staff that includes food scientists, business segment of General Mills, culinologists and chefs. I am lucky Plymouth, Minn., 10 years ago enough to work with them on a daily doing taste tests. Today, she’s one basis,” he says. He works out of the of about a dozen corporate chefs. marketing department and spends Her primary focus is K-12 school much of his time training salespeople, foodservice and health care facilities. brokers and others to introduce A former pastry chef, her duties now Tyson products to operators, as include introducing hot, individually well as assisting in new-product wrapped breakfast items and other R&D. And, while he does develop products that can go into cafeteria recipes for some larger regional or ovens. “I walk operators through national accounts, mainly, he offers the process of how to use them,” inspiration. When his job takes him she says. She also participates in

30 Sizzle Spring 14 research chefs association can lead the way Students interested in the corporate food- company world should consider joining the Research Chefs Association (RCA), Atlanta. Some 300 of its 2,000 members are students. The association attracts chefs, food scientists and other industry professionals in food R&D. The group

Inc. Foods Tyson coined the word Culinology® to express the relationship between food and science.

Student dues are $30 a year, and discounts of Courtesy Foodservice of Kraft Courtesy are offered for RCA events, including the association’s annual conference. Student industry conferences, often showing in management. “For me, the MBA membership benefits include: hotel chefs how to use General was important,” he says. “When I first started attending meetings ƒƒ A student advisory program Mills products that are being served ƒƒ Scholarship opportunities during conference meals and breaks. with Barilla’s marketing people, I ƒƒ Certified Culinology® degree programs She likes that her job provides the didn’t understand the numbers and ƒƒ Continuing education programs ƒƒ Annual student Culinology® opportunity to use her experience many terms. Knowing about food competition and especially her education. is not enough in this job. You need ƒƒ Internship postings to understand business.” He advises ƒƒ Poster presentations culinary students to get a two-year For more information, visit RCA’s website, how to get ready culinary degree, a bachelor’s in food www.culinology.org/students. science, then an MBA in management More is better when it comes to previous spread: 1. InHarvest's Ruby education, food-company chefs or another area of business. Wild Blend combines Colusari™ say. Culinary training is the first Jetter agrees that knowing how to Red Rice, sprouted red rice, wild rice, sprouted brown rice and long-grain step. Beyond that, courses in food cook is not enough. Chefs working for science and business are important. brown rice. Photo by InHarvest/Rob manufacturers or distributors also have Yuretich 2. InHarvest's Jason Ziobrowski, A bachelor’s degree is a plus. to know how to build a business. “You CEC, (left) corporate chef, Eastern “Corporations like people with must be a business person,” he says. region, and Michael Holleman, director bachelor’s degrees,” says Coulter. of culinary development, are among Hers is from The Culinary Institute At the very least, students should the team of chefs working in the of America, Hyde Park, N.Y. She also take as many food science and company's culinary solutions center. this spread, from far left: 1. Baked has master’s degrees in nutrition and business courses in culinary school as they can. “They need to pay attention ravioli 2. Neapolitan pizza; photo by food science. Jane Armstrong Photography 3. Barry in those classes. Some students tend Miles, senior corporate chef at Kraft Krasilovsky earned his culinary to think they are less important than Foodservice, provides culinary support bachelor’s degree at Kendall College. the cooking classes. They aren’t,” for a number of Kraft brands for several Recently, he completed his MBA Krasilovsky says. large national foodservice accounts. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 31 And, says Miles, “You have to be part salesperson, 100% a team player and keep your ego in check.” the bottom line Although most corporate chefs have several years of experience, some food companies have a few lower-level positions, such as technicians in R&D, available to young culinarians just out of school. Trained cooks also may be hired as salespeople. In general, though, finding and preparing for a job in the corporate world takes time.

of InHarvest Courtesy But those who make the effort say it’s more than worth it. Regular hours looking for a job? After or during formal education, are a main attraction. Unless they are Many food companies hire chefs to work potential food-company chefs need in their R&D, sales, marketing and other traveling, and traveling can be 30% or departments. Jobs range from culinary to get hands-on experience. Before more of the job, chefs work a 40-hour directors and senior corporate chefs to they can develop products for and week with most nights, weekends and corporate executive chefs, corporate chefs, communicate with chefs in the field, sous chefs and even interns, on occasion. holidays free. That appealed to Miles, Those with a degree in nutrition can find they need to know what it’s like who left fine dining partly because he positions as dietitians, as well. Some chefs out there. “Working somewhere in has two young sons. Krasilovsky made work directly with foodservice operators a restaurant for a couple of years and distributors. Others serve the consumer the move so he would have time for a side. Company websites provide contact is good preparation for R&D and family in the future. and career information. other corporate responsibilities,” Here are some companies, large and small, Miles says. “It’s hard to get into the The travel can be a deal-breaker for that employ chefs: corporate world. The job is so good, some looking to work in the corporate world. Holleman logged about 75,000 Agri Beef Company – www.agribeef.com people stay.” Barilla America – www.barilla.com miles in 2013. The chefs who report to Dole Foodservice – www.dole.com In addition to having the right him travel as much or more. They visit Emmi Roth USA – www.rothcheese.com education, those who are successful General Mills – www.jobs.generalmills.com customers and work at food shows, Illes Seasonings & Flavors – www.illesfoods.com in the corporate food-company often for five days at a time. Some InHarvest – www.indianharvest.com world tend to have an outgoing travel is out of the country. “In the Kent Precision Food Groups – personality. “Part of the fun of my www.precisionfoods.com beginning, it sounds exciting, but it Kraft Foodservice – www.kraftcareers.com job is winning people over. You really isn’t,” Holleman says. “It’s tiring Lactalis Culinary – www.lactalisamericangroup.com have to be a people person,” and hard work. When hiring, we look Nestlé Professional – www.nestle.com PepsiCo – www.pepsicojobs.com Coulter says. for those who are willing to travel and TW Garner – www.texaspete.com can make the necessary arrangements “I look for chefs who can walk into Tyson Foods – www.tysonfoodcareers.com at home to be away.” any environment, read the room and know how to act and react to get our Travel is not necessarily bad, though. message across,” Holleman says. Minnesota-based Coulter spent several

32 Sizzle Spring 14 NExt issue run a food truck Inc. Foods Tyson of Courtesy

days in the warmth of Miami in January of a sous chef may pay an annual above: Triple cheese 2013. Travel also offers the opportunity salary in the $40,000 to $50,000 double stack flamebroiled burger. Photo by Ralph to find out what chefs in the field range, says Miles. Salary increases Smith Photography are doing and get a better handle on come not only from moving up the opposite: InHarvest’s what they need and want in terms of ladder, but from taking on additional Nerone Italian Black Rice products, recipes, menu development responsibility and accountability. has a rich, buttery flavor and other assistance. And, not all travel with a slightly sweet finish. is long or long-distance. InHarvest Food companies offer satisfying jobs for When cooked, the rice takes tries to hire chefs to service the regions the right people. “I love my job and plan on a deep, dark indigo-to- to be here for a long time,” Jetter says. almost-black color, as in this in which they live. Often their base of black rice pudding. Photo operation is at home. Suzanne Hall has been writing about by InHarvest/Rob Yuretich chefs, restaurants, food and wine from her Food companies can provide home in Soddy-Daisy, Tenn., for more than benefits and perks that many 25 years. restaurant jobs can’t. Corporate chefs get paid vacation, insurance and 401K plans. Salaries vary from region to region and company to company. Positions on the level www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 33 by degrees gnocchi piedmontese by degrees

Gnocchi Piedmontese By Kevin C. Clarke, CCE, JD Photography by Matthew Eric Lit

nocchi is a general term applied you keep changing the ingredients, you to several varieties of dumpling. will never understand that perfection G The potato gnocchi of the is more about developing a feel for the Piedmont region of Italy are by far the right potato dough consistency than it is Kevin C. Clarke, CCE, JD most famous. about choosing to add whole eggs or just is director of culinary education at Colorado Mountain College Culinary Institute, Summit egg yolks. As with many dough products, Campus, Breckenridge, Colo. Escoffier’s cookbookLe Guide Culinaire it is up to the culinarian to determine the provides recipes for Gnocchi au Gratin, right ratio of ingredients. based on pâte à choux; Gnocchi a la Romaine, based on semolina paste; and The recipe included here I learned the more familiar Gnocchi de Pomme de from a chef in Florence, Italy. The most Terre, or, in Italian, gnocchi di patate. important step is to make sure to steam dry your potatoes. Too much moisture Gnocchi are a classic Italian will result in an overly gummy and accompaniment, and the ability to heavy gnocchi. produce them should be in every culinarian’s tool chest. I prefer to use russet or other high-starch potatoes, and I boil them with the skins There is much debate about the exact on to preserve as much starch as possible. recipe for potato gnocchi. I offer advice I Use all-purpose flour. Too much protein received from my good friend, ice carver in the flour will make the gnocchi tough. Michael Pizzuto, who says, “Choose an ice carving and carve it over and over Finally, practice with the recipe and again until it is perfect. You will never add a little flour at a time, cooking a become a good ice carver if you change few gnocchi from each batch until you the carving every time you try.” “teach” your hands the correct feel for the dough. It should be soft, pliable and Choose a credible recipe and work with just tacky to the touch. it until it is the best you can make it. If

34 Sizzle Spring 14 Step 1 Step 5 Pass cooked and peeled potatoes through To form gnocchi, hold dough from opposite food mill; fold in egg, cream and nutmeg. sides between thumb and forefinger. Place gnocchi diagonally on base of fork. Use thumb to roll gnocchi off fork, forming ridges on one side and a dimple on the other side. ingredients 1½ lbs. russet or other high-starch potato, unpeeled 1 large whole egg, whisked 2 oz. heavy cream 1 ⁄16 t. freshly grated nutmeg 8½ oz. all-purpose flour 4 oz. unsalted butter Kosher salt to taste 1 oz. minced parsley Step 2 Shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano to taste Place flour on large work surface; make a well in the center. Place potato mixture in the well; equipment cut in flour until mixture is just combined. Step 6 2-gallon stockpot Add gnocchi to boiling water until they float; Food mill, medium plate cook for an additional 3-4 minutes. Remove, 4-quart mixing bowl strain; add to heated saute pan with lightly 2-cup mixing bowl browned butter. Season with salt. Finish with Paring knife parsley and shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano. Bench scraper (or stiff bowl scraper) 10-inch saute pan Flat strainer or Chinese strainer Slotted spoon helpful hints ƒƒ Allow potatoes to steam dry in Step 3 skins until you can handle them for Knead dough until smooth, slightly elastic peeling; do not let them go cold. and just tacky to the touch. ƒƒ Use back of paring knife to peel cooked potatoes. ƒƒ Do not over-mix dough, to avoid tough gnocchi. ƒƒ Take the time to properly form gnocchi. Ridges and dimple allow them to hold sauce and provide a pleasant mouthfeel. ƒƒ Practice with the recipe to get a feel for the dough, including the Step 4 right amount of flour. Make time to Divide dough into four portions. Roll each produce the recipe several times into approximately ¾-inch-diameter ropes; in a row, just as athletes practice cut into ½-inch pieces. basic skills to get better.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 35 2014 ACF rRegionegionAl eMBRaCing a SuStainaBle FutuRe ConFeRenCes

northeast—April 11-14 southeast—April 26-29 online registration closes March 28 online registration closes april 11

Full registrAtion pACKAge includes access to 1-hour seminars and demos, general session, icebreaker reception, 3 breakfasts, 2 lunches, chef professionalism award lunch and awards gala. does not include aac dinner or chapter events. stAndArd rAte onsite rAte culinarian/professional culinarian $650 $750 Junior/senior/student $350 $400 allied/associate/enthusiast $650 $750 non-acF member $750 $750

noRtheaSt Region SoutheaSt Region the Crowne plAzA hotel At the embAssy suites north ChArleston– Crossings Airport/hotel & Convention Center $125 + tAx per night $139 + tAx per night reservation deadline mArCh 21: call (800) 227-6963 reservation deadline April 5: call (800) 362-2779 (mention acF regional conFerence) or online (mention acF regional conFerence) or online at acFcheFs.org at acFcheFs.org

2014 ACF regionAl ConFerenCe sponsors

Denotes National Partners. Call the ACF national office, (800) 624-9458, for more details.

4 The NaTioNal CuliNary review • marCh 2014 pleA se support these generous sponsors register online at www.acfchefs.org for additional workshops and a la carte meals. 2014 ACF regional ConFerenCe registration

Mail or Fax to: register online at: www.acfchefs.org American Culinary Federation 180 Center Place Way | St. Augustine, FL 32095 (F) 904–825–4758 | (P) 800–624–9458 CoMPlete a seParate F orM F or eaC h attendee (applies to full and program badge purchases) name ______Member ID ______Current mailing address ______q home or q work City ______State ______Zip ______Phone number ______q home or q cell Preferred email* ______employer ______Work phone ______Position/Title ______*If provided you may receive email notices of products and special offers from ACF sponsors and exhibitors.

s eleC t the C onF erenC e(s) yoU P lan to attend: Conference and date: q Northeast (April 11-14) q Southeast (April 26-29) Online registration closes March 28 Online registration closes April 11

FUll registration Pa CKage includes access to 1-hour seminars and demos, general session, icebreaker reception, 3 breakfasts, 2 lunches, Chef Professionalism Award Lunch and the awards gala. Does not include AAC dinner or chapter events.

Member Status Standard Rate Onsite Rate Culinarian/Professional Culinarian q $650 q $750 Junior/Senior/Student q $350 q $400 Allied/Associate/Enthusiast q $650 q $750 Non-ACF Member q $750 q $750 = ______Spouse | Name:______(same rate as member) = ______

2014 ACF regionAl ConFerenCe sponsors FaM ily M eal Pa CKage* q Family Meal Package (includes icebreaker reception, 2 lunches, Chef Professionalism Award Lunch and the awards gala.) # ______x $250 = ______*To be eligible for a family meal package the ACF member must purchase a full registration package.

a la C arte registration o P tions (See conference schedules for dates and times for the meal function) One-Day Conference Program Badge includes breakfast for that day. note: Program badges may not be purchased with full registration. q DAy 1 q DAy 2 q DAy 3 # ______x $150 = ______

Meal Tickets Icebreaker reception # ______x $50 = ______Chef Professionalism Award Lunch # ______x $50 = ______Awards Gala (includes one drink ticket) # ______x $100 = ______American Academy of Chefs® Dinner # ______x $125 = ______

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refunD Policy: request for refund must be made in writing and postmarked no later than 30 days prior to start of event. A $50 processing fee will be deducted from refund amount. PayM ent Made By: q Check q Money order (Make payable to: American Culinary Federation) Credit card (select one) q VISA q MasterCard q American express q Discover

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acfchefs.org 5 register online at www.acfchefs.org for additional workshops and a la carte meals. events ACF regional conferences events

Northeast Regional Conference April 11-14 The Crowne Plaza Hotel at the Crossings, Providence, R.I.

Friday, April 11 2:45-3:45 p.m.

8-11 a.m. A Scientific Basis for Food & Wine Pairings Hands-on Workshop: Cambodian and Pal French Fusion Cuisine Experience how tastes differ and how they lead us to make food and wine choices. Learn the scientific Khmer cuisine possesses the brightness of flavor basis for making successful food-and-wine pairings. of Vietnamese cuisine, the depth and richness of Indian cuisine and the versatility of Chinese cuisine. Presented by Edward Korry, department chair, Beverage Explore the combinations of these vibrant flavors and Dining Services, Johnson & Wales University, from spices and aromatic herbs with complex and Providence, R.I. luxurious French cuisine. Monday, April 14 Presented by Neath Pal, culinary instructor, Johnson & Wales University, Providence, R.I. 10:15-11:15 a.m. Artisan Chocolate Candy Bar Saturday, April 12 Gain insight into a variety of techniques that can 1-2 p.m. be used to make memorable chocolate candy bars. Modernist Cooking Learn how to achieve a variety of textures using high- quality chocolate and Plugra® European-Style butter. Understand the direction food is taking by A composed chocolate candy bar with Viennese exploring the science of food. Learn about Beriau butter cookie, extra-bitter dark chocolate, orange hydrocolloids, transglutaminase and how to ganache and hazelnut praline will be demonstrated. effectively use liquid nitrogen. Presented by Joel Reno, chef-instructor, The French Presented by William Myers, executive chef, Pastry School of Kennedy-King College, Chicago Stone Harbor Golf Club, Cape May Court House, N.J.

1-2 p.m. Sunday, April 13 Generational Differences in the 8-9:30 a.m. Hospitality Workforce Sustainable Sea How do you manage, motivate, inspire and retain Sustainable crustaceans are a top-10 trend in the four generations of workers in the hospitality National Restaurant Association’s What’s Hot in workforce: mature workers, Baby Boomers, 2014 Culinary Forecast. Learn about harvesting, Generation X and Millennials. Learn how to develop handling and cooking crustaceans such as sea real-world strategies to maximize the contributions vegetables, lobster and mussels. of each generation.

Presented by Wilfred Beriau, CEC, CCE, AAC, Presented by Gary Wood, professor, Suffolk County Gray, Maine Community College, Riverhead, N.Y. Reno

38 Sizzle Spring 14 Southeast Regional Conference April 26-29 Embassy Suites North Charleston— Airport/Hotel & Convention North Charleston, S.C.

Saturday, April 26 10:15-11:15 a.m.

8 a.m.-noon Fully Equipped: From Design to After-Sale Service Hands-on Workshop: From Root to Fruit Stefanelli This forum provides information for chefs on This workshop will provide participants with a better purchasing, maintenance, service and parts, understanding of whole vegetable/fruit use and warranties and design of restaurant equipment. cooking. Learn new techniques using whole plants to Engage with leaders in food equipment and sales to maximize profits and create exciting new dimensions optimize the performance of your establishment. to menus and teaching. Presented by industry experts and moderated by Ira Presented by Scott Stefanelli, CEC, chef-instructor, Kaplan, owner, Irinox USA, North Easton, Mass. Culinary Institute of Charleston, Trident Technical College, Charleston, S.C. Tuesday, April 29 Sunday, April 27 10:15-11:15 a.m.

4-5 p.m. Food Styling/Presentation with a Modern Twist Strategically Planning Your Career This seminar will showcase how personal creativity, How do you develop contacts and relationships and professional traditions and modern technology fuse market yourself? Learn key strategies, actions and to create successfully plated dishes. Learn the use of secrets to getting hired and growing your salary and old and new technology in food presentation. your career. Presented by Stefan Ryll, CEC, CCE, AAC, professor, Presented by Tom Valentin, CEC, regional vice Southern New Hampshire University, Manchester, N.H. president, food and beverage operations, Culinaire, Miami Lakes, Fla. 2:30-3:30 p.m.

Monday, April 28 Seductive Nutrition and Nordic Cuisine Identify and trace the development of Nordic 8-9 a.m. cuisine and the historic roots of flavor that develop Ryll Artisan Salumi and Dry Curing sweet and salty in this culinary demonstration. Learn Learn techniques for crafting dry-cured meats and about the original sustainable concepts of pickling, fermented salumi using ingredients that are naturally preserving, drying and foraging. sustainable. Discover the benefits of heritage breeds, whole-animal use and the ancient science behind the craft. Presented by Steve Jilleba, CMC, CCE, AAC, corporate executive chef, Unilever Food Solutions, Lisle, Ill. Presented by Jeff Bacon, CEC, CCA, AAC, executive chef/program director, Triad Community Kitchen, Winston-Salem, N.C.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 39 international flavors cumbria, england international flavors

Cumbria, England By Suzanne Campbell, CEC, instructor at Pulaski Technical College Culinary Arts and Hospitality Management Institute, Little Rock, Ark.

St Bees is on the western tip of the Cumbrian coast, about 40 miles south of the Scottish border. It is famous for many things, such as the Norman Priory Church of St Mary and St Bega, which is the local parish church dating from A.D. 1120, and St Bees School, a 400-year-old private boarding school. It is also the start of the Wainwright coast-to-coast walk.

The pathway was devised by Alfred Wainwright, who was famous for his pictorial guides to the Lakeland Fells. He stitched together two coasts, three national parks and 200 miles of footpaths to give a picturesque snapshot of England’s villages, lakes, mountains and moors. The walk is popular with y culinary influences come hikers, and my husband and I covered from my Scottish heritage part of it in 2011. The ocean views and M and Northern England roots bucolic landscape is breathtaking at St where I started my culinary training. Bees, and it is only a few miles from the I grew up in Queens Hotel, owned by famous Lake District National Park, my family, in the little town of St Bees, so it’s an ideal base from which to tour Cumbria, England. I also worked at the Lake District without the crowds. other local hospitality businesses, and Village life in the Lake District is unique went to culinary school in the area. to the county, reflecting the agricultural

40 Sizzle Spring 14 background of the hill country with strong in Cumbria, including a “Sustain sheep dog trials, dry-stone walling (wall- the Real Bread” campaign. building) contests and hound fell racing, Breeds of heritage sheep include the for example. Herdwick, the Rough Fell and the food heritage Swaledale. They are bred to withstand The local pub or hotel where I grew the rainy, windy climate with an average up always had an inviting atmosphere, high temperature of 54°F. The breeds with wood smoke and good cooking can be traced back to medieval times. using locally sourced ingredients. Many They graze on the fells to more than pubs today still keep old traditions alive, 3,000 feet. The Tamworth is the oldest serving Cumberland sausage, black pig bred in the U.K. The Middle Whites, pudding, fresh coastal fish and a huge Saddlebacks and Gloucester Old Spots array of local beers. There are many are other heritage breeds. The Middle pubs to visit in each town for a pub White is my favorite, close in flavor to crawl. Farmers markets abound and are the now-extinct Cumberland pig. It is advertised on the Internet promoting an also a good-natured pig. array of local produce, Herdwick sheep, opposite: An overview of St Bees. Traditional foods from the area of cheeses, jams, honey and fresh eggs. left: Queens Hotel in St Bees, previously which I have fond memories are owned by Suzanne Campbell’s family. Organic farming is natural to the Grasmere gingerbread , Hawkshead wig right: Toad-in-the-hole is sausage in area, with plenty of meat, handcrafted (bun with a hint of caraway), fat rascals Yorkshire pudding. bottom: Pinks Restaurant, a converted cheeses, organic cheeses, hundreds (type of tea cake) and Kendal pepper 16th century barn, was previously of varieties of apples and plums, and cake, not to be confused with Kendal owned by Suzanne Campbell’s family. organic stone-ground flour available for mint cake (more of a candy bar), all of Photos by John Campbell purchase. The Slow Food movement is which I devoured as a child. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 41 international flavors cumbria, england

odd british names Cumberland sausage and blood sausage Cartmel has wonderful desserts, or, for food (black pudding) bring back pleasant rather, puddings, such as sticky toffee. yyJam roly-poly, also known as dead Higginsons of Grange butcher in man’s arm or dead man’s leg, is a memories, which is probably why I traditional suet pudding rolled with jam enjoy charcuterie so much. The recipe Cumbria was voted “Best Butcher and baked. My grandmother baked for Cumberland sausage is a closely 2014” by the Q Guild of Butchers for it on cold days, serving it with hot custard on top. It is also called shirt guarded secret, but we used white its mouthwatering sausage, homemade sleeve pudding, because it was often pepper, marjoram, nutmeg, mace and meat pies and superb cuts of meat. The steamed and served in a shirt sleeve. sage along with meat from locally sausages the company sells include yyClootie dumpling and spotted dick are similar desserts. They both are reared pigs. Dock pudding (not a sweet Cumberland, pork and leek, pork and made with dried fruit, sugar, suet, flour pudding) is another recipe steeped in Stilton, beer and black pudding and a and milk mixed in dough, wrapped in spicy haggis. a floured cloth and steamed for two tradition. There is even a competition for hours, then served hot with golden its making every year in May. The recipe In the village of Stavely is the Mill Yard syrup. They are similar to treacle ginger contains mostly bistort and nettles plus pudding that my grandmother made, at Stavely, an artisanal shopping center mostly because of her Scottish roots. other herbs, and it is usually fried with that is home to Hawkshead Brewery, yyToad-in-the-hole is sausage in bacon for breakfast. This dish would Wilf’s Café, Friendly Food and Drink, Yorkshire pudding. In her 1747 book The Art of Cookery, Hannah Glasse have provided necessary vitamins after a and Lucy Cooks Cookery School. A highlights Pigeon in the Hole. long winter in the early 19th century. few years ago, my husband and I took yyBangers and mash is a traditional the grand tour of Lucy’s and were English dish of Cumberland sausage, A pudding can be sweet or savory, but mashed potato, onion gravy and peas. well-impressed with her school. Bread is usually a dessert. Puddings are rich Originally, because of rationing in connoisseurs would surely enjoy More World War II, people added water, and and starchy with suet or dried fruits. The the sausage was likely to explode. Bakery. It is the winner of numerous savory varieties are Yorkshire pudding, awards, including “Best Cumbrian above: A view of the black pudding, and steak and kidney Product Food & Drinks Award 2013,” Lake District. suet pudding. sponsored by Cumbria Life and opposite: Suzanne Westmorland Ltd. Campbell returned to dining out St Bees to hike in 2011. There are several notable eateries in The Drunken Duck Inn, a hotel, restaurant the villages of Cartmel and Grange. and pub in Ambleside, Cumbria, is set on

42 Sizzle Spring 14 a hill between Conniston and Hawkshead. opened a restaurant called Pinks in a cumberland sausage It is a beautiful place to stay, with great converted 16th century barn. We used Suzanne Campbell, CEC, Instructor, Pulaski Technical College Culinary Arts and food. The menu revolves around such local, seasonal ingredients, and game Hospitality Management Institute British classics as pig’s cheeks and venison season was my favorite. The local farmers Little Rock, Ark. haunch, delicious desserts and local ales brought pheasants and hare to the door Yield: 5 lbs. or 60 (4-inch) sausage links brewed on-site. for me to prepare. All these traditions have been beneficial in my development ingredients: Fancier fare is found at the two- 5 lbs. pork shoulder of classes for our culinary school, such 1 lb. pork fat Michelin-star restaurant L’Enclume as garde manger, history of food and 1½ oz. kosher salt in Cartmel. Under the expertise of ¼ cup breadcrumbs canning/fermentables/preserving. executive chef/proprietor Simon 3 T. coarsely chopped marjoram 1 T. black pepper Rogan, the restaurant was judged “Best 1 t. white pepper Restaurant in the U.K. 2014” by the 1 t. mace Good Food Guide. Rogan also owns 2 t. nutmeg 2 t. sage the Pig & Whistle in Cartmel, and is ½ cup ice water replacing Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s method: hotel in London this spring. Local 1. Combine all ingredients except water; chef Kevin Tickle will become the new mix to distribute evenly. Refrigerate head chef of L’enclume after working overnight. 2. Grind mixture through small die into bowl for Rogan for nine years. For sheer set in ice. luxury, visitors must stop at Holbeck 3. Mix chilled water into meat until uniform Ghyll Country House for its views of stickiness is achieved. 4. Cook small portion of sausage mix; taste. Lake Windermere. The Michelin-star Adjust seasoning as required. restaurant has retained its rating for 5. Stuff sausage mix into casings in long, 12 years. Chef David McLaughlin uses single, curled links. 6. Saute or roast to 150°F. locally sourced food when possible.

After I finished college, my family moved from Cumbria to the Cotswolds and www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 43 the interview jennifer jasinski the interview

Jennifer Jasinski By Ethel Hammer

line cook, Spago on Sunset, Los Angeles, currently reigns, having just won the 1990; line cook to sous chef, Eureka, 2013 Best Chef Southwest designation Los Angeles, 1991; line cook, Postrio, from the James Beard Foundation. No San Francisco,1992; cafe chef, Spago, Las Vegas, 1993-95; co-chef, Granita, wonder her three current restaurants, Malibu, Calif., 1995-96; executive sous Rioja, Bistro Vendôme and Euclid chef, Spago, Chicago, 1996; corporate Hall Bar & Kitchen, keep winning chef, cafe division, Wolfgang Puck Food acclaim. And it’s a good bet she caught Co.,1997-2000; executive chef, Panzano, Denver, 2000; chef/co-owner, Rioja, the expansion bug as a California Denver, 2004-present, Bistro Vendôme, girl working her way up under Puck’s Denver, 2006-present and Euclid Hall Bar tutelage. & Kitchen, Denver, 2010-present. Working in Puck’s organization select achievements/ skyrocketed her technique and know- awards how. With too much movement to Western Region Chef of the Year, American Culinary Federation, remember all the whens, whys and 2005; Food Network’s “Thanksgiving wherefores, between 1989 and 2000 Challenge,” 2005; author, self-published she moved from working as tournant born cookbook The Perfect Bite, 2011; at San Francisco’s Hotel Bel-Air, Los Angeles nominated, Best Chef Southwest, James Beard Foundation, 2011, 2012; winner, where Puck was merely a consultant, resides Best Chef Southwest, James Beard only to hopscotch around his empire Denver Foundation, 2013; finalist, Bravo’s “Top until she emerged as corporate chef learned the trade Chef Masters,” 2013. of the cafe division of the Wolfgang High school foodservice training, Dos Puck Food Co., where she opened ennifer Jasinski worked with the Pueblos High School, Santa Barbara, many new cafes. “There were so “king of expansion,” Wolfgang Calif., 1984-85; AOS in hotel and many, I don’t remember the cities,” restaurant management, Santa Barbara J Puck, for 11 years, learning the she says. City College, Santa Barbara, 1985-87; ins and outs from a master. Now, 14 AOS at The Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, N.Y., 1987-89. years after setting out on her own, As corporate chef, it was her job to she’s deep into realizing her fourth train the chefs, design menu items and career path restaurant, a fish place, Stoic & standardize everything throughout the Cook, The Rainbow Room, New York, 1988-90; worked various positions in Genuine, scheduled to open July 2014. operation. “There were five to six cafes Wolfgang Puck restaurants, including, All her work is in Denver where she when I started, and 22 by the time I

44 Sizzle Spring 14 left. Doing this for three years was a goat cheese. Add the sizzle and crunch challenge,” she says. of truffle fennel salad, orange confit and almonds, and you’ve got what she Then, after this seemingly grueling yet calls “the perfect bite.” exhilarating tutelage, she moved to Denver and found the right business Then, at Bistro Vendôme, Jasinski partner in Beth Gruitch. Together they changes modes, offering classic opened three restaurants in six years, French bistro dishes including steak one hefty task for a hands-on chef. frites and Poulet Rôti aux Herbes. There are also nightly specials, Asked what her life is like after including cassoulet, bouillabaisse winning a James Beard award and and duck à l’orange, and evenings planning a fourth restaurant, Jasinski featuring specific French regions. describes her immediate future. “It’s crazy. My days are booked solid. I At Euclid Hall Bar & Kitchen, an have the Beard dinner next week in American concept, she’s off on yet New York, then I go to Iceland to another tack, serving up double-decker judge a contest called Food & Fun. chicken schnitzels, braised center-cut The following month I do a Star Chefs beef marrow bones and a brat burger event in Los Angeles. And, oh, I forgot on a pretzel bun with tempting slaw, Cochon 555, an event to promote Thousand Island dressing and Jarlsberg heritage pigs.” cheese. “I wanted to do food I like to eat with beer,” she says. Aside from all this celebrity-chef globe-trotting, she has to keep on top Euclid Hall also features her left: Peaches at their of three restaurants, each a different renditions of Canadian poutines, prime end up grilled concept. Rioja’s Mediterranean dishes including Carnitas Papas Fritas with on the menu at Rioja. right: Local seasonal include her signature Artichoke chili/lime fries, tomatillo green sensibilities reign at Tortelloni. The Rioja Picnic appetizer chili, cheddar curd and goat cheese. Rioja, especially with testifies to her love of artisan meats and “Poutines are a cool idea and good to this pea ravioli. cheeses, including Italian Mountain share,” she says. Photos courtesy of Rioja Gorgonzola and warm pine nut crusted www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 45 the interview jennifer jasinski

what kind of kid were you? I’m the kind of person who gives jj: I was a tomboy who played at 120,000 percent to everything I do. the beach. I liked to surf, but I didn’t I never want to settle. I’m always do anything too extreme. I was the involved in things being super-fun. It youngest of three. My parents got was fun going from being a musician divorced when I was 2, but my mother to being a chef. Right now the fun lies said I could be anything I wanted to in designing my fourth restaurant. The be. We were middle class. Nobody excitement is figuring out what it will was coddled. Everyone had to do their be to the guests. We came up with part and share. I played the flute since the name when my husband and I second grade. I also played clarinet were with my chef Jorel Pierce at The and oboe until I gave them all up to do Modern in New York. We knew it would cooking. But the creative part of music feature fish, but didn’t have a name and cooking share a lot in common. for it. My husband Max, who is quiet There’s an organizational, math quality and sometimes doesn’t talk a lot, can in cooking and in music. I think people be a bit stoic. So I asked Jorel, “If Max should play instruments, as it helps the is stoic, what am I?” And Jorel said, brain to grow. “genuine.” Thus, the restaurant will be named Stoic & Genuine. I cooked as a kid in order to eat and started out baking simple things such describe your food concept and as cornbread and Dutch baby skillet the idea of the perfect bite at your pancakes. I loved Julia Child’s recipes restaurants. for pâté, mousses and goose, but I jj: The Perfect Bite is the name of my never tried to cook out of her book until cookbook, and it’s also the way I like I was in college. And, no, I still haven’t to eat and how I compose my dishes tried everything. so the guests will enjoy them. In my artichoke tortelloni, there’s handmade tell us about your junior college cooking course. pasta and creamy artichoke mousse in a beautiful, light, potent artichoke broth jj: It was great. The school had working with a touch of truffle, with chervil for affiliations with a United Airlines brightness and an artichoke chip for cafeteria and all sorts of food venues, crunch and texture. from fine dining to steakhouses, top: Among the giving us all really good hands-on At Bistro Vendôme, the perfect bite Mediterranean dishes experience. In fact, I’d counsel new and served at Rioja is Jennifer would be our steak tartare, a beautiful, young culinarians not to go to culinary Jasinski’s signature rosy chopped beef with cornichons and school until they’ve worked around the Artichoke Tortelloni. capers, aioli and a sunny-side-up quail bottom: Jasinski self- business for a year or two to see if they egg. This is put on a grilled baguette, published her cookbook like long hours and working on holidays. hot and crusty on the outside and soft The Perfect Bite in 2011. You need to carefully look at the on the inside, making for a perfect bite. opposite: The Rioja Picnic industry before you jump into it. And you appetizer demonstrates need to genuinely love it. Otherwise, At Euclid, the perfect bite would be our Jasinski’s love of artisan don’t do it. I love it. Sure, I might want to Boudin Noir, which mixes pâté with meats and cheeses. go to Tahiti, but I’d come back. blood, chunks of golden raisins and

46 Sizzle Spring 14 eggplant. There is a little hint of curry you probably wouldn’t sense unless you knew it was in there—and the snap of the fresh casing.

At Stoic & Genuine, the perfect bite could be the special oysters that will be harvested and branded especially for us, topped with a granita with cucumber, apple and a little gin. tell us about Wolfgang. jj: Wolfgang was awesome, always really great with customers. If anyone wanted something, he would go out back and make it for them. He was always the hardest-working person, not afraid to do what it took to get things done. The best part of working with him was that he kept opening restaurants and devising different concepts. He only had Spago and Chinois when I started with him. I worked at the original Spago on Sunset, and on my first day, I made a 10-gallon lexan of gefilte fish, something I had never made before. It butchering—things I learned from him. how do you create was weird. I thought I was going to be Postrio was one of busiest restaurants balance with a husband working in a fine-dining establishment. imaginable, with 350 diners every day, who is also a chef? I didn’t understand that this was a jj: My goal is to have balance and so you had to learn to move your rear stay happy with my husband and special Jewish celebration dinner. and deal with it. my work. So I don’t work 80 hours a week. It’s not healthy. Instead, I I remember sitting on the roof during do you identify with any food? work close to 55 or 60. My husband one of the Swifty Lazar parties at I like to drink white wine a lot. I don’t Max MacKissock, who is a chef consultant, is extremely creative, and Spago watching the stars enter the know if it’s like me, but it likes me. I’m he and I think about things completely front door during the Academy Awards. quiet when things aren’t going well. differently. While he and my chef Jorel And when things are good, I’m chatty. both think progressively, I think more I opened Eureka and cooked for Sean classically. For example, we’re doing Connery’s birthday party, to which he Ethel Hammer is a writer, lecturer and a play on green eggs and ham for the Couchon 555 event March 9. Whereas wore a kilt and played the bagpipes. cartoonist based in Chicago. I would use a classical egg custard, When I went to Postrio, Anne and Max suggested we cure the egg yolks. David Gingrass were the first married For fun, Max and I go bicycle riding, couple I ever worked with. She ran take our dogs for walks and try to go the line. He was kind of a kitchen everywhere together, so he comes to lots manager and did all the sausage and of my events, which are fun for him, too. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 47 the quiz spring 2014 Get the answers Click here to find out the correct the quiz answers.

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1. How many Michelin stars does The French 6. According to research-firm Technomic, how 11. Gnocchi are a classic accompaniment in what Laundry have? much have vegetable offerings on restaurant type of cuisine? a. 1 menus increased during the past three years? a. Global b. 2 a. 5% b. Vegetarian c. 3 b. 8% c. Fried d. 4 c. 11% d. Italian d. 23% 2. From where does osso buco originate, 12. Yorkshire is a variety of what sort of pudding? according to Pietro Vitelli, CCE? 7. What kind of vegetables can help a restaurant a. Creamy a. Northern Italy justify charging slightly more for a dish? b. Savory b. Venice a. Local c. Sweet c. Southern Italy b. Seasonal d. English d. France c. High-profile d. Unusual or exotic 13. What breed of pig is the oldest in the U.K.? 3. What is the customary method used to a. Tamworth tenderize veal shanks when making osso buco? 8. True or false: Sometimes corporate/company b. Herdwick a. Sous vide chefs are required to travel extensively for business. c. Rough Fell b. Hammer or mallet a. True d. Swaledale c. Powdered enzymes b. False d. Braising 14. Under which famous chef did Jennifer 9. What type of culinary school classes are Jasinski work for many years? 4. What is one of the most important documents important for students who plan to work as a a. Thomas Keller in running a restaurant? corporate/company chef? b. Rick Bayless a. Liquor license a. Food science c. Wolfgang Puck b. Excel spreadsheet b. Marketing d. Alice Waters c. Liability insurance policy c. Foodservice sanitation d. PDF menu d. Purchasing 15. In what year did the James Beard Foundation name Jennifer Jasinski Best Chef Southwest? 5. What can some vendors provide to help run a 10. Gnocchi is a general term applied to several a. 2005 restaurant? varieties of what? b. 2007 a. Computer programs a. Bread c. 2010 b. Kickbacks b. Mushrooms d. 2013 c. Sample menus c. Dumplings d. Free printing d. Pasta

48 Sizzle Spring 14 Last Bite portland last bite Portland, Ore. Wondering where to eat in Portland, Ore.? Who better to ask than some of the city’s most respected chefs. Check out their dining suggestions. great juicy mexican fix modernized teriyaki burgers Nuestra Cocina tapas Du’s Grill Canyon Grill 2135 SE Division St. Ataula 5365 NE Sandy Blvd. 8825 SW Canyon Road, (503) 232-2135 1818 NW 23rd Place (503) 284-1773 Beaverton nuestra-cocina.com (503) 894-8904 Tues.-Sat.: 5 p.m.-10 p.m. dusgrill.com (503) 292-5131 ataulapdx.com Appetizers: $6-$9 Mon.-Fri.: 11 a.m.-8:45 p.m. thecanyongrill.com Tues.-Sat.: 4:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Entrees: $9-$18 Entrees: $7.50-$9.50 Mon.-Fri.: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sun.: 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Desserts: $3.50-$6 Sides: $2.50-$2.95 Sat.: 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Tapas: $6-$16 Sun.: 9 a.m.-2 p.m. This family owned Paellas + Rossejats: $30-$38 My family and I go Burgers: $7.95-$8.95 establishment serves Sweets: $6-$11 to this little hole-in- slow-cooked dishes the-wall teriyaki spot Hot sandwiches: $6.95-$8.95 such as Cochinita The restaurant was every Friday night. Signature salads: $7.95-$8.95 Pibil (braised pork recently opened by We get the beef and with pickled onions) chefs Jose Chesa pork teriyaki with Just down the road and Costillas de Res (from Barcelona, sticky rice and the from my home, I like (braised short ribs). Spain) and his wife funky little salad that to clean my palate They are always Cristina. Jose has comes with it. It’s so several times a month perfectly prepared cooked all over Spain, perfect and satisfying with a juicy burger and presented and France and the U.S. every time. from this quaint spot. accompanied by The cuisine is modern The food is always on –Adam Sappington, chef/ wonderful handmade interpretations of point and the service owner, The Country Cat tortillas. tapas and various Dinner House & Bar is great. –Lisa Schroeder, executive paellas. The menu –Michael Uhnak, executive chef/owner, Mother’s changes frequently chef, Besaw’s Bistro & Bar and the entire concept is spot on. Everything is worth trying. –Greg Higgins, chef/owner, Higgins Restaurant and Bar

P h s oto all by John V

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