The real Åboriginal guide to the finest and most irritating city in . 2019

What does feel WE DECIDED TO like? GO AND ASK P. 6 THE GOUR- EXPERIENCE NOTORIOUS MET TOUR TURKU'S ARCHI- HILLS Conquer the PELAGO Strolling to the dark culinary Turku p. The view from a kayak p. 18 side of Turku, with crime 14 Aboard the Swedish ships p. 32 author Jari Salonen p. 26 KISS MY TURKU IS VISIT TURKU'S CONTENT MARKETING CONCEPT, WHICH OFFERS INSPIRATION FOR TOURISTS AND LOCALS, PUBLISHED ONLINE AND IN PRINT TOGETHER WITH COOPERATING PARTNERS. THE OFFICIAL VISIT TURKU TOURISM WEBSITE OPERATES FROM VISITTURKU.FI. 4 Editorial 5 LOVE/HATE Turku in Movies See the Turku of the big screen. 6–9 What does Turku feel like? Turku just feels... hmm…you decide. 10 LOVE/HATE Five tastes of Turku Great tastes of Turku, by the Bishop's decree. 11 From Hansa to Turku design From mainstream shops to dens of design. 26 12–13 How do you create a premium hotel? Welcome to the hotel that Turku deserves. 14–15 Tantalising restaurants x 11 Foodie heaven from one to eleven. 16 LOVE/HATE Runaway to Turku Would you cycle for the one you love? contents 17 From Turku to water x 4 2019 From little boats to big ships.

18–21 The view from a kayak Aboard a kayak, everything is different. JEMINA SORMUNEN and JEMINA 18 JEMINA SORMUNEN JEMINA 22 Meanwhile somewhere else x 4 Presenting life outside Turku.

JEMINA SORMUNEN JEMINA 23 The Great Spa Test Guiding through a maze of magnificence.

24–25 Super fun for the little ones! KIM ALLEN-MERSH ALLEN-MERSH photos KIM page on adjacent photo photo cover Making the little become big. 26–29 Notorious hills The author and the secrets of the seven hills. 30–31 Superb museums x 11 Nothing new, other than contemporary art. 32–33 Around the Archipelago Sea in 11 hours The height of nicety in the Archipelago. 34 Programme and packages Visit Turku presents: experiences. 35 Info 17 Feeling a little lost, are you? 3

Editorial

FROM THE START, A FULL CONFESSION: I’m a true Turku-local.

And another confession: I’ve not really thought how I experience it, that is, how it feels to be from Turku.

For this magazine (which actually is a first edition of our annual Kiss my Turku magazine) we asked people how they felt about Turku. And the feelings were described in more than 1300 different ways. From page six onwards, read the story that grew into more than we’d have ever expected.

If I had to describe how my Turku feels, my answer would go something like this: "Turku feels like style, fashion and design."

My feelings were born in the 1980’s, when working as a fashion journalist I got to know the legendary Lenita Airisto and the charismatic characters of Arto Elovirta and Ritva-Liisa Pohjalainen. Finland was booming and for those from Turku, Stockholm was fashion heaven just a short boat ride 2019 away. Oh wow, those shoulder paddings we had! Inspiration from those colourful years has found new life in fabric bags of locals and fans of Turku, PUBLISHER: in the form of "Varför Paris, vi har ju Åbo". The collection, Kestilä designed Visit Turku 2019 by Timo Sarpaneva, was inspired by the comment of a Swedish journalist. CONCEPT AND COORDINATION: Looking back is lovely but Turku’s future is more important than its Drama Queen Communications past, and there’s plenty of history to be made. I always highlight the new generation of Turku design whenever I get the column space to do so. So, EDITORIAL TEAM: Anna-Maria Palkén, Liina Komi, whether it’s recycled earrings that get inquiries from fascinated strangers, Mirkka Varho, Laura Andersson, or hand towels with our famous Föri ferry, go and shop in Turku’s small Jemina Sormunen, Elina Sihvola, Kim and distinctive design boutiques. My own favourites are Televisio, PUF Allen-Mersh, Juuso Suominen, Stina Design and the small shop of fashion designer Kisu Korsi, to name-drop a Frimodig, Julia Lehtilä, Annina Ranimo, couple. Also, don’t miss the Boutique Week in May! Patrick Selin and Senni Uusikartano

SMALL PRINT: Maybe, after reading this magazine your emotions of Turku are that bit Everything can change but surely more distinct – just like we are. Whatever you feel, it’s worth coming here you knew that anyway. Don’t get to find out why the emotions about Turku are so strong. surprised if that happens but instead be prepared for twists of destiny by Anne-Marget Hellén checking the opening times of places Director of Tourism and so on, online. Kiss kiss. Visit Turku

4 — KISS MY TURKU 2019 LOVE/HATE Turku in Movies AN A-LIST CAPITAL - DID YOU KNOW, ALREADY THIS CENTURY THE TURKU REGION HAS BEEN IN THIRTY MOVIES, SEVERAL TV-SERIES, SHORT FILMS, ANIMATIONS AND DOCUMENTARIES. NOT BAD GOING FOR THE OLD CAPITAL CITY. CHECK OUT THE FILMING LOCATIONS OF TURKU’S 5 COOLEST CAMEOS.

Kylämäki Village The four building country farm of Kylämäki Village is not your normal outside museum but rather a village of living history. And what could possibly be more suited to this living theme than movies – such as the charming Onneli, Anneli ja nukutuskello, based on the children’s book, in which this time the familiar duo’s adventures take them to the home of an absent-minded inventor. In summer 2019, the Kylämäki experience gets even better, when the movie world is brought through VR- and AR-technology.

River Aura Shores Rope Factory Door Föri The River Aura is really Turku Cathedral is already Here in Turku, even our Föri, the well-known star of something special and a over 700 years old and has doors are so special they the local transport system, great place to work, an served as the setting for get a cameo in big movies. also operates as a filming opinion shared by those sacred events, but the national Sometimes artistic vision location, as seen in the Finn- scouting for filming locations, shrine can also be spotted requires an actor to ‘bend’ to ish-Mexican movie Bayoneta. for example. There is one on the big screen. In the Nor- the role, and our doors are Turku appears in sleet and problem though – it’s just too wegian movie, Flame above nothing if not flexible per- darkness (extremely odd

FINLAND ZODIAK / KURU JOUNI photo beautiful. The foreign film Jolster, the cathedral plays the formers. Just ask the door at given Turku is permanently festival didn’t want to show role of an Italian church, and in the Köysitehtas rope factory, bathed in sunshine – well, the 1999 movie Restless, Mika Kaurismäki’s 2015 movie which has twice had a role movies aren’t real anyway). because the themes of the The Girl King, it played the part as a nightclub door. In the The movie’s main star Luis Aku Louhimies film just didn’t of the 17th Century Stockholm comedy Reunion, the gang Méndez described it as fit with the gorgeous summer Cathedral. Turku is apparently goes to Turku and the door of lovely, pretty and unique.

LAURA ANDERSSON ANDERSSON LAURA sunshine of the River Aura very European, but this is what Köysitehtas opens magically What an admirable attitude text Onneli, Anneli ja nukutuskello Onneli, the movie from scenery. we’ve been trying to tell you! onto the nightclub Apollo. to winter in Finland.

MATERIAL FOR THIS ARTICLE WAS TAKEN FROM AN INTERVIEW WITH THE FOUNTAIN OF ALL TURKU-BASED FILM KNOWLEDGE, SUPERB MOVIE WALK GUIDE ANNAMARI LAINE. READ MORE ABOUT VISIT TURKU’S OWN PRODUCTS FROM PAGE 34 5 text LIINA KOMI and LAURA ANDERSSON photo WIKIMEDIA COMMONS 6 Turku feel like? — KISS 2019 MYTURKU FIERCE EMOTIONS. INSPIRED BY THAT, WE TOOK THE RISK AND ASKED ONLINE: WHAT DOES TURKU FEEL LIKE? WE GOT 1359 ANSWERS. HERE'S ONE HUNDRED A SMALLTOWN. AMONG THE CITIES OF FINLAND, TURKU IS THE ONE TO RAISE TURKU HAS BEEN SAID TO HAVE THE SOUL OF A METROPOL IN A BODY OF What does What does club inthesummer. Turku feels like I'll come back for good.Home." "Turku gives you permissionto make it your own andpersonal." "The saying"Turku isthea*****e of Finland"isknown by everybody "I have thisfeeling thatsomeday "Turku feels like abigpop-up a smallfair inthe winter." "Fish. Turku feels like fish." in thiscountry, butIdare to say:few really know Turku." OFFOR,– THEM AGAINST, ANDABIT OFF THE TOPIC. its longshoreline like Paradise." "Ruissalo Island feels like afairy-tale forest, "My friendsandI, we have always talked "A distant dream, soundinglike thesea. "The Middle Ages. In agood way." about Turku asthecity of love." Is iteven real?" – Pulsu – Hanna-Mari – Ira – M

–I'mgoingHome – Otto – Aapeli – Ka – Karo

THE TRUTH BARÅMETER MEASURES TURKU VIBRATIONS "The dialect is not terrible any ONLINE AT KISSMYTURKU.FI. IF YOU HAVE FEELINGS FOR OUR more, sometimes astonishing CITY, TOO, LET THEM COUNT. but not often infuriating." – Heisky CLICK IT ALL OUT! "People always try to f**k with a Turkuner, but I always give as good as I get." – Jallu "As a 5th generation Turku girl I'm proud of my interna- 85% 15% tional hometown. The reason others slander our city is LOVE – HATE envy from the little upstart villages." – Seija The material for this article was collected in the "You'll find about the same amount of backward rednecks fall 2018 at kissmyturku.fi. By the end of November and aware idealists in Turku." – Lothar of Turku we got 1359 answers to the question "What does "Turku brings to mind the ferry that took me cross the Turku feel like?". We chose a hundred of them and river in 1966. I had a wart, and I believed it had dropped wrote the story balancing the feelings according to in the water." – Taramara the Baråmeter. Thus about 85 % of the answers we used say something more or less nice about Turku "The old orange city ferry called FÖRI is the thing that always makes people go like WHAT!!!" – Sepa – and about 15 % do not. "Turku feels bigger than it is." – Tinttuli "Sense of rush is rare here. The beat of Turku is unhurried." – Lothar of Turku "I often point out that I'm not from Turku, but I like to repre- sent the city and its people. I have to admit that I get some "An encounter with Turku is, for satisfaction from the reactions." – I'm not from Turku example, the first warm day "Selfish Center of the Universe Sourpuss City. On the other of spring when the whole city hand, good service here and there." – Anxiety emerges from winter hiber- "Who defines this content? An all Turku panel?"– Päivi nation and flocks to the river "Turku is my Paris, Tallinn and banks." – Ninni Stockholm. I love Turku, which "Turku feels like it could be my home." – Svantte is pretty strange for someone "Turku feels merchantish and mustardey. Really good and from , considering the genuine Finnish, that is." – Hottis classic Helsinki-Turku love- "Life, livings, a smile here, a tear there. Shameless, happy, – Turkulove whole." – Incidental Stepper hate relationship." "A bit like Hämeenlinna was made bigger and taken closer "The banks of the River Aura are so cool and so full of life. Perfect spots for a beer-pack picnic." – Mariastiina to the sea." – Palvi "Turku would be a nice city without the locals." "We envy you for the sea." – Liilakka – SorryNotSorry "Turku feels good. Occasionally a little bit tiring, but mostly "Let's not stomp Turku under the sea, ok? We should rather like an everyday adventure." – Macrogurl move it in the place of the soulless Helsinki. A wheelbarrow "I love Turku nowadays. It hasn't always been this way." by wheelbarrow, if needed." – Minna – Wintersnow "I like Turku, it's messy and sexy just like many "My husband's uncle talks about #turkuonlythings, men there." – Affected by which he means anything funny I say or do." – Lotta "It belongs to me, and I belong to it." – Barefooted "I had a summer job in Turku in 1973. I returned in 2017. "Walking by the river in the twilight you forget you are mad Unlike me, Turku had gotten younger. Lovely river banks, at the bus driver who didn't take you aboard, even though people cycling, international atmosphere!" – Heila he saw you running in desperation. You may even thank him in your mind and wonder if this beautiful melody plays "In Turku I tend to feel this deja in your head – or is the Fairy-tale Bridge loose again?" vu, just like I have always been – Poyhiah there" – A future citizen of Turku "Turku is not the best city, but it's better than anyway." – Harri

7 ”The whole city annoys me. People who have moved there "In Turku one does not get stared at, unlike in small towns, are constantly hyping it in whatever media they can find but either over and past like in Helsinki. Maybe it’s some but in reality they are just trying to make themselves feel kind of everyday presence.” – Lothar of Turku good about their own bad judgement.” – Kimmo ”Turku is a beautiful city but I don’t like people.” – Mirca ”There is an apple tree, a currant bush and a cherry tree growing in my parents' garden. As a kid I carried sand ”Personally; regrettably distant. Confident but insular. to the root of the cherry tree, although I have no idea Beautiful and interesting but very traditional with no sur- why. My sweetheart is softened by this, for her it’s idyllic prises.” – Lennu that I’m from Turku. A bit childish but beautiful. I consid- ”I actually went as far as starting to paint a picture of my- er myself cosmopolitan. To her, I’ll always be a boy from self as a future Turkuner, and it looked good.” – In Tinder Turku, a boy who talks a bit silly. A boy who gets emo- forever? tional about Martti, who has a story from every cor- ner. Who gets a bit hurt if someone makes fun of Turku.” – A boy from Vähäheikkilä ”What annoys me the most are ”Everytime I see a wooden house that hasn’t got tears Turkuners who have fled from anymore I feel like crying from happiness.” – Mell their village and go around ”Turku is embodied in its silly main library building. One parroting “joovai?”. Well yea, end is historical and dignified, the other a modern cube. Somehow they work seamlessly together and create a yea!!!” – From Tampere, nääs functional ensemble. – Ulla ”Well, Turku is like a grater.” – That would be all

”In my home there are curtains of the River Aura and a wall ”Turku intrudes.” – I'm from Turku print of a photo my dad took of fireworks during Turku Day. I have also infected my husband with some Turku-lingo.” ”Slightly hermetic but warm on the inside.” – Cata – A new turkuner ”It feels like there are more talented and pretty people in ”In Turku my fringe points upwards when I’m heroically Turku than in the rest of Finland.” – Xenia crossing whatever town square in a headwind.” – Ulla "The only problem is your dialect." – Tupsu ”There are four people in my family. We are ”Turku is like the distant, chic all born in different cities. One is a Turkun- aunt who offers you a room to er. He differs from the rest of us by being tall and handsome.” – From a herd stay in while studying: who is ”Turku sucks some serious a**. However I find my OWN not called “mom” by anyone derriere there regularly. Why? Because the a**iness of Turku is the most beautiful thing in the world.” but her own kids, and doesn’t – Sibbobo even want to be. But there is ”Since I was four I’ve been a Turkuner mentally, to my fami- a certain kind of pride I feel ly's horror, a proper black (and white) sheep.” – Johku about her. I love showing Turku ”Turku is full of warmth and love!” – Joyanna to my friends.” ”A cramped, international city, with people who are sulky – Ulla and snappy.” – Tansu "A warm, deep, slightly bohemian velvety embrace, whose cultural fringes tickle your cheek.” – Kikka ”Coming to Turku feels like "Turku is the best place in Finland, right after Stadi. entering Narnia through the My newest crush is the Jokke Jokijuna.” wardrobe.” – Päksä – A girl from Tölikkä ”Just telling you, might be moving back to Helsinki soon!” ”I like Turku, its humane rhythm; its beat doesn’t suffocate – Birgitta a wanderer.” – Tekla "Turku is leisurely, resolute, reliable and diverse, like a "Turku is a vain, rejoiceful city.” – Arja good friend.” – Jossu ”I’m from Satakunta so dissing Turku has been a part of my "I have learned to understand Turkuners, since my hus- life since the early days.” – Emma band was born at Heideken." – Turku FAN ”The man in the record store knows which vinyls inter- ”Turku feels like a breeze from history. Turku feels intro- est you by the way you look, in a full restaurant a Swed- verted. Turku feels like a hug from dad when I need en- ish-speaking yacht club doesn’t mind you sitting at the end couragement.” – Piula of their long table. In Turku you belong.” – Ilpo

8 — KISS MY TURKU 2019 ”It feels like Turku knows the Fun fact: SMEAR treasures it’s hiding and makes FOR ONE, PLEASE. conversation with a bypasser: Dissing Turku. Ain’t it the inseparable and jolly part of the Finnish folklore. But who knew that the hatred actually – Mää We won’t be here forever.” originates from a tactical dirt crusade? ”Turku lives through wars and terrorism. In spite of all this, In 1809, when Finland was taken over by Russia, it ap- the River Aura flows into the Airisto Sea, a guitar plays on peared a tad awkward to have the capital so near the old Puolalanmäki and people dance at Uittamo. And so life ruler, Sweden. Helsinki instead was conveniently close to goes on, and that, if anything, is what being from Turku St. Petersburg and was thus proclaimed the new capital. means.” – Karo But there wasn’t exactly much going on in the village descimated by the plague just a hundred years before, ”The Turku lingo is funny.” – Mappi then burned down by the Swedish army and subse- ”Turku, ah, the city that is liked and at the same time so quently occupied by Russia. There was a feeling of inferi- hated. I also recognize that in myself.” – Iisinen ority – the town of barely 4 000 citizens didn’t really have a history. Even the population didn't exceed that of Turku ”It’s true that the Turkuners’ primary tone is negative.” – Merituuli until the 1840’s. Enter courtier and diplomat, the Russian count Gustaf ”Every time I step out of the door I feel privileged.” – Ipa Mauritz Armfelt, who decided to resort to dubious ways to justify the change of capital. He started to spread ar- ”People are so proud of being ticulate lies. Armfelt wrote about Turku being a poisonous from Turku, I’ve never met love den with a dreadful atmosphere, wicked hags and folk, well, generally trash. that strong towards a home- Over the course of the years the origin of the lies was forgotten but the strange confrontation remained. And town.” – PH maybe it’s not so bad. Because that’s what Turku does. ”People from Turku have to diss every other city in Finland Awakens feelings. just to make themselves feel better.” – Pave ”The intestine of Finland, the point of the cape, the fountain of civilization.” – Nessie

”Like Tampere but still completely unique.” – Inna "Turku is small and convenient. Turku is parochial and open. Turku is proud for a reason and proud for no reason. Turku ”No lakes nearby, that's a big of negative. The sea just isn’t is wonderful and distressing.” – Irga enough ;)” – Fuzz ”After climbing over the language barrier I understood that ”From what I've seen, they must put something in the water in the people here are simply awesome.” – A Chick of Tampere Turku. Nothing else explains the overly positive people. I defi- nitely want the same substance to be added to water in the ”Why aren’t we kind to every country yokel? Well, the real Helsinki metropolitan area.” – Katariina question is: Why would we be?” – Meiju ”It’s just like The Bold and the ”There’s an unlimited access to Beautiful but IRL!” – Minde everywhere in the world from ”Turku tastes fresh, and when the wind comes you already Turku, and the Archipelago is like know to expect it.” – Ao children in front of their mother.” At every encounter Turku has showed up as a place – Katti of beauty, kindness and hospitality. But never as a “softy”, ”The best thing ever is fries from the town square grill with all always very well aware of its own worth.” – Sinappi the flavourings. That's when Turku feels like a timeless mo- ”I love the culture scene of Turku: the Cathedral, the Turku ment.” – Tiitu Castle, the River Aura. The nearness of sea and the archi- ”There’s some kind of magic in Turku, especially in the spring pelago are crucial to me. To me Turku also means living bi- nights along the river banks. When I’m lost and sad, I feel like lingualism.” – Anelina Turku picks me up and holds me close.” – Inka ”I think Turku has the heart of New York.” – Trade ”The Middle Ages, grilled pork, home brewed beer and bustle of a fair.” – Tero ”Turku is an adventure.” – Ilona ”Why would it feel like anything.” – Laura ”There’s always a pinch of romance to be found, too.” – Manna "As a journalist I play this little game of mine with the peo- ple from Tampere by writing articles to Aamulehti and often ”Turku in the spring time can be mistaken for Paris. The choosing a specialist from the . I definitely flowers blooming on the river banks, the murmur of an un- have a love-hate relationship with Turku.” – Ellikki familiar language, the clicking of dishes in a café.” – Ilona 9 LOVE/HATE Five tastes of Turku FORGET WHAT YOU THINK YOU KNOW – THIS IS THE BISHOP’S DOUGHNUT! TURKU HAS IT’S OWN STYLE AND NAMES, ALWAYS THAT LITTLE BIT BETTER IN HOW THEY SOUND AND, OF COURSE, TASTE. GET ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE LANGUAGE BARRIER – LOVE THEM OR HATE THEM, HERE ARE FIVE GASTRONOMIC CREATIONS FROM A TRUE CULINARY CAPITAL.

Bishop’s Doughnut Perhaps you know it as the Berliner doughnut? Well, not in Turku. Discovered in Finland in the 1860’s, the blessed raspberry jam and divine homemade crea- tion of sugar and fat, was quickly christened as the celebrated Bishop’s treat. And once again, of course, Turku has got it right and everyone else is wrong.

Double Hesburger Raisin Sausage Sallatti Salad Archipelago From Blanko to Dynamo to The Turku Market Hall butch- We might not have been New Potatoes Hesburger and home. er sells around 40-50 kilos of very inventive with the name, As most of Finland’s new Having created the world’s raisin sausages a week. If still but this is a truly unique potatoes are grown in South- best mayonnaise, our sym- wondering what you should salad mix. Originating in west-Finland’s archipelago, pathies go out to those who be when you grow up, how the bourgeoisie circles of we’ve happily patented the LEIPOMO ROSTEN LEIPOMO photo haven’t. Those crossing a line about a raisin sausage the southwest region in the entire plant. Of course, there’s by mistakenly complimenting maker? There’s only a dozen 1800’s, Sallatti spread all over also the New Potato Festival other hamburger chains, can or so in existence and de- Finland. Among other ingre- here as well. As a serving expect evil glares and cold mand is growing. Sit by the dients, it contains apple and suggestion for the delicacy, shoulders. river and bite down on a juicy salted herring. Surprise your try the traditional half-kilo of

LAURA ANDERSSON LAURA sausage. family at Christmas. butter. text text IS YOUR MOUTH WATERING? OF COURSE IT IS. READ MORE ON PAGE 34 ABOUT THE TURKU FOOD WALK CARD, AND GET A PASSPORT TO THE HEART OF TURKU’S RESTAURANT CULTURE.

10 — KISS MY TURKU 2019 SHOPPING & ENTERTAINMENT

From Hansa to Turku’s design boutiques – there’s something for everyone

Holidays are a time to really shop and have fun. And shopping in Turku is a really satisfying experience, whether at the city’s oldest shopping centre or browsing the quaint boutiques, discovering original Turku items with a distinctive local twist.

1 2

SHOPPING CENTRE HANSA is Turku’s central shopping 1. PUF DESIGN MAR- point, where adults, teens and kids are all guaranteed to KET sells Finnish designer brands and find something suitable. Operating for 30 years, under charmingly traditional Hansa’s roof you’ll find the onlyZara in southwest Fin- Turku items. Buy some land, the country's largest H&M and the Marimekko flag- stylish ÅBO tennis socks or a delightful poster of ship store, full of classic styles and collections to admire. Turku Cathedral. In addition to businesses specialised in fashion, Hansa 2. HANSA SHOPPING PATRICK SELIN and PATRICK also houses stores specialising in games, toys, books, jew- CENTRE has many 3 ellery, athletics gear, interior design and electronics. And great places to eat or get of course in Hansa you’ll also find the legendaryStock - coffee. Popular amongst the editorial team at mann department store, which has been serving in the least, are Pizzarium, same location since 1982. Hanko Sushi, Powau, Hansa’s close neighbour is the building site of Turku’s Gelato Nuvole and Fazer Café. new Market Square, but it’s nothing to be worried about. Normal service in the centre continues, with parking also 3. KUI DESIGN brings together products from

KIM ALLEN-MERSH, JULIA LEHTILÄ LEHTILÄ JULIA ALLEN-MERSH, KIM at the P-Louhi and Stockmann parking halls. Busses ser- small Turku-based vice all the suburbs, arriving right outside Hansa. designers. Pick up some of the phenomenal photos photos "Varför Paris, vi har ju IF LOOKING FOR SOMETHING SMALL AND LOCAL, check out Åbo" bags. Turku-design. A school of trend combining Scandinavian 4. BOUTIQUE ROOSA style and local colour, featured in many places in Turku. is for many locals a

STINA FRIMODIG STINA Get started by exploring KUI Design behind the tourist reason to go shopping in Naantali. 4 text text office andPUF Design Market in Forum Court.

hansakortteli.fi | pufdesignmarket.com | kuidesign.fi | putiikkiroosa.fi 11 How do you create a premium hotel?

THERE’S A NEW HOTEL IN TURKU. WE DIDN’T HAVE THE PATIENCE TO WAIT FOR THE OPENING, SO WE EXPLORED THE VISION OF THOSE IN CHARGE OF TRANSFORMING SEURAHUONE, THROUGH THE EYES OF SANNA BYSKATA, AMONG OTHERS.

“IF HOTEL SEURAHUONE WAS A PERSON, it would be a trendy godmother, with red lipstick and leather pants, always impressing with something new and wonderful every time you meet. They are a super social type, constantly entertaining lots of

guests, organising dinner parties and always ready with a warm hug whenever you

arrive or say goodbye,” eloquently explains the hotel manager Sanna Byskata. Solo Sokos Hotel Turku’s Seurahuone is one of the most interesting things in Turku’s hotel industry for some time. There is a certain expectation in tourism that as the restaurant boom raises standards, people turn toward the Turku hotels and

PUROPLAN OY and PUROPLAN expect them to live up to that quality. Responsible for the new boutique hotel is TOK, embracing new trends and seek- ing to meet the increasingly individualised expectations of the modern consumer. “As a big player, we have the networks to develop new concepts and implement them properly,” says Sanna Byskata, continuing: KIM ALLEN-MERSH ALLEN-MERSH KIM “This has been a great opportunity to experiment with new collaborations with specialist design companies. For example, the inspiration for the restaurant comes photos photos from Aki Wahlman’s Foody Allen, whilst responsible for interior design is Jaakko Puro, the designer behind highly acclaimed interiors of Lilla Roberts and Haven.” LIINA KOMI KOMI LIINA

text text - www.sokoshotels.fi/en/turku/sokos-hotel-seurahuone TOK with in cooperation WHEN THE DESIGN PROCESS FOR SEURAHUONE BEGAN, current trends were carefully

12 — KISS MY TURKU 2019 considered and then those that were most essential for the project were chosen. “The things which mattered to us most were locality, re- sponsibility and personality,” says Sanna Byskata, continuing: “We want those who stay with us to have a clear feeling during their whole visit that they’re in Turku and nowhere else. In addition, we also want that even urbanites come to stay with us for the weekend. "Staycation" is a getaway in your hometown and a new trend in the world of city breaks that Seurahuone wants to be a part of.” What then in Seurahuone is from Turku? The staff of course, they're local and provide a natural, high quality ser- IT’S NO SECRET vice that's distinctly Turku. Also, the beautiful building of THAT CITIZENS Seurahuone itself, dating from 1928, is a valuable property OF TURKU designed by architect Erik Bryggman, a famous son of Turku. HAVE HIGH Although the guests of Seurahuone in Turku are leisure EXPECTATIONS. travellers, it couldn’t flourish without local clientele. “The appreciation locals have for Seurahuone is a meas- ure of our success. When the city residents make Seura- huone their own, it’s easy to sell to others. It’s no secret that the citizens of Turku have high expectations.” good restaurant scene even without us,” says the smiling res- SEURAHUONE’S LOCAL AND TOURIST CLIENTELE are naturally taurant manager of Gunnar Sami Kivirinta, and continues: brought together in the restaurant. The restaurant at Seura- “Because we already know the city’s restaurant culture, we huone is named Gunnar Eatery & Bar, and Gunnar is bring- also know what the city is still missing. So our strategy in Gun- ing a completely new concept to the city’s culinary culture. nar is to invest in so-called social eating. Here we have room “In Turku it’s not easy, because you already have a very for larger parties. The menu contains a lot of dishes designed for sharing, and from the cellar you’ll find a good selection of magnum and jeroboam bottles. The atmosphere is relaxed and the staff will always have something new to offer.” “Another core tenet of the restaurant is our close links with local producers and consumers. From the beginning, the devel- opment of Gunnar had the input from a gang of eight local ‘con- noisseurs’, which we gathered together through social media. Their role was to provide local insight, ideas and customer per- spectives which we fed into the development of the restaurant.” Gunnar has partnered with six local specialist producers. For example, lamb, yoghurt and ice cream is brought in from CARING FOR the Sikka Talun sheep farm in Rymättylä. The house salad THE INGREDIENTS mix is brought in fresh from the Kotipello Graden. The name of the small black sheep is Gunnar, and it sits “The creators of the table settings are also regional producers, drinking milk on the lap of the restaurant’s godmother, Paula with the tableware from Terraviiva designers on Kaskenmäki.” Stam. We are at the SikkaTalu sheep farm in Rymättylä get- ting to know the partner companies for Seurahuone’s res- DO YOU LOOK FOR A HOTEL WITH THE RIGHT MOOD, and careful- taurant Gunnar. ly survey the hotel with a keen eye? Do you notice architectural “I’m actually a vegetarian, and I founded the farm in order to supply the market with more products to meet the features or carefully placed design details? Can you distinguish needs of customers like me,” explains the farmer Katja Sikka, something that is completely new and different? continuing: “Seurahuone’s design went on to become exactly what Tur- “On our farm people have responsibilities and the an- ku deserves,” summarises Jaakko Puro. imals have rights, and this can be tasted in the products.” “We started to make a fun hotel that has the desires of For example, in Seurahuone sheep’s-milk finds its way to the breakfast table as yoghurt and as ice cream on Gunnar’s guests in mind rather than cleaning. All Turku was missing was desert menu. a vibrant boutique hotel – and that’s exactly what they got.”

13 Turku regards itself as the restaurant capital of the country and is ready to back up that reputation. Here are a few

ROSTER examples, with yet more great ▼ places at kissmyturku.fi Tantalising 11Xrestaurants THE GOURMET TOUR E. EKBLOM E. ▼ Kaskis The superstar of Turku’s restaurant scene is Kaskis, astonishing and brilliant whilst at the same time delightfully uncomplicated. Under the stewardship of Erik Mansika, the restaurant basks and JULIA LEHTILÄ and JULIA in the glow from both of Turku’s Michelin stars over the door. Reserve well in advance. Kaskenkatu 6a

Smör From the street level view, you wouldn’t easily guess the treasures that lie below. In Smör’s stone cellar, you can take a SMÖR

▼ journey of Scandinavian flavour. Elegant and excellent – what more could you ask for? Läntinen Rantakatu 3

Kakolanruusu Found in the premises of Finland’s most notorious prison is another, more casual restaurant from the team behind Kaskis. Food is not served through the bars of a cell, but rather across

JEMINA SORMUNEN, PATRICK SELIN SELIN PATRICK SORMUNEN, JEMINA photos LEHTILÄ and JULIA an open flame, with barbecued food a Kakolanruusu speciality. Graniittilinnankatu 2 KAKOLANRUUSU

▼ Roster Within the historic perimeter of Turku Cathedral, residing in the old Governor’s building is restaurant Roster, complete with its handsome lighted skull adorning the wall. Under its watchful glow, good food is served without the formalities of fine dining. Tuomiokirkonkatu 6

JEMINA SORMUNEN, JUUSO SUOMINEN SUOMINEN JUUSO SORMUNEN, JEMINA E. Ekblom Operating under the shade of the old trees along the River Aura, on E. Ekblom’s menu you’ll find chic bistro-style cuisine full of international flavours, and the wine list more than ideal. texts LIINA KOMI, KOMI, LIINA texts Läntinen Rantakatu 3 KASKIS ▼

14 — KISS MY TURKU 2019 Humalistonkatu 6 passion aswell aslots of intriguing bottles. in Turku. The owners of thisrefined littleplace deliver expertise, If you rather like alittlebitof wine, thenthisis'TheIt'location Viinille strongly recommendedbutwealsohave muchmoreto offer. As always, theAura’s fleetofriverboat restaurantscomes Well, naturally, Turku isasuperbplaceto popoutforadrink. Kauppahalli, Eerikinkatu 16 Kauppahalli, and, if you’re inthemood,fresh bread to take away! of Finland’s BestBakery titlein2015.Inviting cakes, pastries you’ll findthebaked handiwork of MBakery –thewinner Under theshelter of Turku’s atmosphericoldmarket hall, Piece of Cake Kauppakeskus Hansa, Eerikinkatu 17 taste, atevery Brahe location. centre stage inthedisplaycases, both interms of size and which willsatisfyeven thelargest sweet tooth. They take The specialityof Cafe Brahe istheepicgiant cinnamonbuns, Café Brahe Läntinen Rantakatu 5 ta of the Year. coffee, its homemade cakes and for beingseven-time Baris- culture, Café Art iswell known for its Turun Kahvipaahtimo A favourite place for coffee connoisseurs andfriends of Café Art Aurakatu 3 to by its friendsasPankki. 150different beers –saynomore. the socialhubandrestaurant known astheOldBank,referred mer bank of Turun Osakepankki. The premises are now hometo Built in1907 onthecorner of Aurakatu andLinnankatu isthefor Old Bank Eerikinkatu 18 den terrace, to whichmany are drawn onbalmy summer nights. founded in1889. Through theback door you reach thebeer gar restaurant brewery, located inthebuildingof anoldschool IA hugepub, substantial diningfacilities andFinland’s largest Panimoravintola Koulu CAFÉ CULTURE OUT FOR DRINKS - - 15

▲ PIECE OF CAKE ▲ CAFÉ ART ▲ CAFÉ BRAHE ▲ OLD BANK ▲ KOULU ▲ VIINILLE LOVE/HATE Runaway to Turku IF SOMEBODY TELLS YOU THAT THE BEST PLACE TO GO IN TURKU IS TO GO AWAY, DON’T TAKE OFFENSE – THAT MEANS WE LIKE YOU. FOR EXAMPLE, HERE YOU CAN HIRE THE LOVELY YELLOW FÖLI BIKES AND RIDE TO AN AMAZING SECLUDED SPOT. WHETHER IN THE MOOD FOR ROMANCE OR SOME CONTACT WITH NATURE, FOLLOW THESE FIVE +1 TIPS. WITH ALL OUR LOVE.

Kuuvannokka Lookout You did know, that Ruissalo has a reputation for stealing the unprotected heart. Pick up a Föli bike from the pedestrian high street and take the route that guides you to Kuuvannokka – 13 kilometres and fifty minutes later, you’re liberated from the stress of daily life. Suddenly, you’ll long for nothing else other than the sun setting over the Airisto. Also regarded Turku’s most romantic destination.

+1 Jump to a Föli-bike and roll along the Aura, in a lovely, leisurely way. The adventurous jump from the saddle and walk instead. Turku is a place where the more carefully you look the more fantastic it becomes.

Katariinanlaakso Halistenkoski Turku Castle Kuusisto Bishop's Why not cuddle a loved- Just four kilometres from the Here’s to yesterday – or Palace Ruins one under a leafy tree? And city centre are the roaring rather, 700 years ago. Turku Are you willing to work those whether you’re hugging your Halistenkoski rapids, where Castle with its exhibitions thigh muscles in the name of dearest, your dog or your the surrounding nature trails and guided tours is only culture? The ruins of Kuusisto’s warm thermos, the atmos- can be enjoyed anytime of a few kilometres from the Bishop’s Palace are a feast phere of Katariinanlaakso day or year. During summer, centre and a fascinating for the eyes and nourishing is straight from a fairy tale. at a charming café located destination for both locals for the soul, with plenty to see At less than six kilometres close to the dam, you can and holidaymakers. On the and do. Even if you’re not that VIRTA photo JENNI from the city centre, it’s near rent canoes and enjoy coffee journey there, stop off at fit, the 16 kilometre journey even for a rusty cyclist – but and pastries in the garden. Forum Marinum by the giant takes a bit more than an just in case, grab something An effortless trip for a public daisy lying in the forecourt, hour, and in these landscapes nourishing from the Market holiday and a refreshing or meander amidst the that’s no bad thing. Pack up a Hall so your energy doesn’t break from the everyday. eternal Sunday-vibe along thermos of hot chocolate and

LAURA ANDERSSON LAURA run out. the River Aura shores. bring along your sweetheart. text text PSSST! DID YOU KNOW, THAT WITH THE SAME FÖLI-CARD YOU CAN TRAVEL BY FÖLI-BIKE, FÖLI-BUSS AND EVEN THE FÖLI-WATER- BUS DURING SUMMER? SIMPLY FABULOUS!

16 — KISS MY TURKU 2019 texts JEMINA SORMUNEN and LIINA KOMI photos JEMINA SORMUNEN and VIKING LINE more ideasatkissmyturku.fi. and theArchipelago Sea.There's go from thecityto Aura theRiver ways are afew convinced, here to true butjustincaseyou’re not in theworld.You thisto know be Archipelago isthemostbeautiful Turku’s weknow Around here vikingline.fi | tallinksilja.fi flying high–the colours of VikingLineandSilja Line. comfortable cabin! From thePort of Turku there are two flags the archipelago scenery, shop and partytillyou drop… ina stretches outinfront of you. Jumpaboard, bewowed by From thedeck of thegiant cruiseships thearchipelago Swedish Cruise Ships ukkopekka.fi there are anarchipelago buffet and romantic pier dancing evening from Turku to thenearby Loistokari Island. Awaiting the River Aura to thesummer town of Naantali , andinthe During summer, Ukkopekka’s morningshiftsteams from Ukkopekka is+80-year-old steamship from Turku, Finland. S/s Ukkopekka foli.fi brought aboard free of charge onboard. ates withtwo vessels. Also, bringyour own wheels–bikes are from theRiver Aura to Ruissalo andPikisaari. The route oper summers andwithjusttheprice of abusticket, goalltheway The Föli-waterbus hasalready beenasuccess for acouple of Turku hasthemosttremendous publictransport vehicles. Föli lanaturku.fi sightseeing andenjoy your picnicinthemiddleof theriver. at sea. Aboard theboats Sintonic, Kuppi andKippodosome er you like –butnot further than Turku Castle to avoid distress a boatfrom theshores of Vähätori Square andheadwherev An electricpicnicboatisafunway to get to know Turku. Hire Låna to the waterto From Turku 4

- - X 17

▲ S/S UKKOPEKKA ▲ LÅNA-BOATS ▲ FÖLI-WATERBUS ▲ VIKING LINE text JUUSO SUOMINEN photos KIM ALLEN-MERSH in cooperation with Pargas and Kimito Island www.pargas.fi, www.visitkimitoon.fi 18 different - seeandfeela from akayak The view AMAZED IS FLOATING THROUGH THE LANDSCAPES IN A CANOE. MARVEL AT TURKU’S ARCHIPELAGO. ONE OF THE BEST WAYS TO BE TRIPS IN A KAYAK. PEOPLE COME FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD TO THEREWILDERNESSARE TRIPS THEN THEREWILDERNESSARE — KISS 2019 MYTURKU perspective

KAYAKING AWAKENS YOUR WILD SIDE. Then to the water

“OK, here we go. There’s no other choice that to start canoeing,” states the guide, pushing his disciples to the water. Every push to the sea is accompanied by spontaneous cries of excitement: “Woohoo!” “Wahay!” “Watch out, it’s rocking!” In the shallows you practice turning and finding your bal- ance. The body is stiff from head to toe, which is completely normal for first timers, apparently. The kayak moves best just as the guide has described. The power for paddling the canoe comes from the core middle body and not the hands. In the water the kayak is really light. Naturally, after a few minutes you get the confidence to move a bit quicker. The experience almost proves to be ill fated, as water starts to fill the inside from the upper right. If the seat opening is not properly protected, which a novice would call for conveni- ence the sealing bag (cockpit cover), you’ll now have about three cups of water under your bum. TIP! Make sure you bring a change of clothes or go without trousers. The compartments of the kayak can fit a backpack and a few other items.

Finland’s best aquatic landscapes

Now it’s time to set out on the actual trip. The guide pointed out the route on the map at the beach but everything looks different from the water. The distance to the destination is WITH PADDLE IN HAND, raise your hands straight in five kilometres, which will take about an hour, if nobody falls front and begin to turn to make a pivot movement. in. After a bit of messing around, the Your hands support the aluminium paddle in the journey settles into an easy and relax- same position all the time, but relaxed and com- ing pace. At last, the endorphins seem fortable. The effort does not come from the hands to roar from the brain to the toes like but through the sides and core of the body. a glass of sparkling wine. The feeling is This is how you take your first steps when kay- almost euphoric. aking. The guide demonstrates the method, which We weave our way through the small is then repeated by a group of novice kayakers, like islets, admiring the rocks carved out by little ducklings learning to swim. the ice age. The smooth rocks of the roll- “Are there any questions about this?” ing beaches are covered with different “No.” coloured lichen. Soaring overhead are Well of course not, Finns never dare ask ques- many types of seagull and circling in the reeds are water birds tions. There are things we’re left wondering but you of the Antitdae variety, which urban dwellers might just refer can ask questions later, when others aren't listening. to as ducks. Sometimes seals have also been spotted here. Next, the kayaks must be modified to fit, by cor- We go beyond the shallows and squeeze through the nar- rectly adjusting the bench and footrests. Squeezing row straits. Suddenly, something brushes the base under the to the kayak causes plenty of grunting, puffing and back of the kayak. The last time I was this shocked was when laughter. Some might have even tried the wrong I touched an electric fence. This time it was just a rock close way round. Fortunately, we are still on dry land. to the surface of the water. But when something touches your bum in the middle of the sea, it’s easy to overreact. TIP! Polaroid sunglasses help you see better through the water.

19 THE DARKENING ARCHIPELAGO EVENINGS ARE DIFFICULT TO DESCRIBE IN AFEW SIMPLE WORDS. AS A PHENOMENON, IT’S IN THE SAME ENCHANTING CATEGORY AS THE NORTHERN LIGHTS, THE SUMMER SOLSTICE OR THE CHANGING OF THE AUTUMN LEAVES.

Excitement and adrenaline

After the straits is just open sea. From the surface of the ADMIRE THE water the horizon disappears from time to time behind the ARCHIPELAGO FROM waves. The narrow straits were calm but now there are waves LAND before us. A small burst of adrenaline flows through the body and sharpens the senses. The guide points out with his About an hour’s drive from Tur- ku are the Kemito Islands, where wooden paddle an island looming on the horizon: you’ll discover famous sights like “That’s where we’re going. The crossing here is a little rough, the Bengtskär Lighthouse, the where the waves are strong, but you can all do it.” Örö Island Fortress, Taalintedaas The encouragement brings some energy but also the body ironworks village, Högsåra, is driven a little by excitement. There is a water bottle se- Söderlångvik Manor as well as the archipelago villages of Rosa- cured to the side of the kayak. Everybody takes a swallow. la and Hiittinen. We begin to paddle against the oncoming waves. Under Located closer to Turku is Par- the right elbow is a lever that controls the rudder at the gas, which has styled itself as a back. When heading straight the rudder should be up. Due slice of paradise. The archipela- go city nowadays includes Hout- to the centre of gravity and the wind (you’ll need to ask a skär, Iniö, Korpo, Nagu as well as professional exactly why) the kayak turns automatically to- Pargas itself. Both Kemito and wards the waves. When paddling side on to the waves, you’re Pargas have an abundance of advised to keep the rudder down. However, if you want to nature trails, quaint little restau- experiment and are enthusiastic to play with the rudder to rants and plenty of other worth- while things to do. Both receive test the power of the waves, the rudder might get stuck in strong visitor recommendations. the upright position making the return journey a lot harder. Over halfway across we begin to paddle with a tail wind. For about twenty minutes the guide explains about the Norwegian Sea and how kayaks can even surf on large waves. Well then, let’s give it a try. With a couple of quick paddles the kayak rushes on the surf quite easily for a couple of seconds. However, greed deceives even the wise man. Again from the same place to the right butt-cheek, water comes pouring in, this time several litres. Worryingly, this capsized the fragile confidence of a novice canoeist, right in the middle of a shipping lane! ROUTES OCCASIONALLY TOUCH THE WATER’S EDGE. TIP! Don’t struggle with the rudder in vain and recognise your level of skill.

Insta-sexy landscapes and other unforgettable sights

Eventually we arrive on the Island of Högland in the Archipelago Sea National Park. On the left edge of the cove is an outcrop, with sheep roaming the brush. “Pick up speed and just before the beach lean back and let the kayak slide up the sand,” in- structs the guide. The grazing sheep critique our performance. For now, the canoeing is over. The archipelago is a magical place. Everything looks, feels, tastes and smells somewhat divine, even our supper – salmon sandwiches for the mouth, sunset for the eyes and silence for the ears, broken only occasionally by the quacking of ducks. Marks out of ten – ten plus one. When the darkness arrives, it’s really dark. The urban light of the city doesn’t reach here, so the stars and planets are clearly traced with a finger. The Milky Way is easily stored on the cam- era. The warm sleeping bag is comfortable to sleep in, whilst the gentle lapping of the waves only serves to compliment the silent beauty.

20 — KISS MY TURKU 2019 HÖGLAND IS THE HIGHEST ISLAND IN THE ARCHIPELAGO SEA. THE NATIONALPARK ISLAND IS WORTHWHILE SEEING 24 HOURS OF THE DAY, ESPECIALLY MORNING AND EVENING.

ROUTES OCCASIONALLY TOUCH THE WATER’S EDGE.

THE ARCHIPELAGO TRAIL COASTAL ROUTE

The Archipelago Trail is the official tourist route, which you can travel either The Coastal Route is a new bicycle route, which passes by bicycle, scooter, by car or by walking. There are two different lengths to through the national parks of the Archipelago Sea, Teijo choose from. You’ll find many sights along the way and of course plenty of as well as Ekenäs. The route targets a number of must-see authentic archipelago atmosphere. There are scattered beaches, wood- places along the way, such as Bengtskär Lighthouse Island, en saunas, bridges, ferryboats and archipelago bread. There are places Högsåra, Rosala and Örö as well as the idyllic ironworks vil- to sleep and eat open throughout the year. The Archipelago Trail is per- lages of Taalintehdas, Mathildedal and Kirjakkala. haps the easiest way to explore the archipelago if you don’t have a boat. If you don’t own your own bike, you can rent one along If you’re in the mood, you can easily cycle all the way to Åland. the journey. You can take a bike from one location and re- turn it to another. You can come by car and then just pick up Saariston Rengastie ~ 250 km Turku–Parainen–Nauvo–Korppoo–Hout- a bike to ride in the area you want. The route is about 150 km skari–Iniö–Kustavi–Taivassalo–Askainen–Merimasku–Naantali–Turku long, 35 km of which is by ferry. Pieni Rengastie ~ 100 km Turku–Parainen–Nauvo–Seili–Hanka–Rymät- tylä–Naantali–Turku Familiarise yourself more at: www.rannikkoreitti.fi

21 text LIINA KOMI, JEMINA SORMUNEN, JUUSO SUOMINEN, STINA FRIMODIG and ANNINA RANIMO photos JEMINA SORMUNEN, SENNI UUSIKARTANO, KIM ALLEN-MERSH and JULIA LEHTILÄ

▼ UUSIKAUPUNKI ▼ KULTARANTA IN NAANTALI ▼ OLD RAUMA ▼ MARIEHAMN 22 — KISS 2019 MYTURKU 4 X time another At thesame much more at:kissmyturku.fi theseand and Åland.Discover Rauma, Uusikaupunki, Naantali outsideofTurku,a little like in falls the beststuffinuniverse If we’re beinghonest,someof Museum. wonderful imaginationof artistAlvar GullichsenattheBonk charming wooden homes,you’ll findmuchmore, suchasthe delights of restaurant terraces. Inadditionto thearea of ry warehouses, whichonce heldsalt, now store thesweet Kaupunginlahti bay. The boulevard’s charming19thCentu- In Uusikaupunki, theseaisgently embraced through the Uusikaupunki the citycentre. mäki, isabronze ageburialsite located 20kilometres from en homesintheNordic region. The other, Sammallahden- Old Rauma, isthelargest andbest-preserved area of wood- dream, itboasts two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The first, Rauma isacityfullof history andmaritimeculture. A sailor’s Rauma those cuddlypillars of children’s culture –theMoomins. idence Church. InNaantali, you’ll also findthe President’s summer res- li, themarina’s many sailingmasts andthepark of theConvent given adayhere flies by admiringthe wooden town of Naanta- Just amoment from Turku andyou’re inNaantali. A convenience Naantali this isfound atSmakby justoutside Mariehamn. there isthefood culture thatreally flourishing. Theproof of inhabitants, withtop history sites andgoodservices. And then away. The capital Mariehamnisamini-metropolis of 12,000 Åland are islandsfor happiness,where theseaisnever far Mariehamn Kultaranta, withits guidedgarden tour, not to mention THE GREAT Spa Test INTERETED IN A WEEK’S GETAWAY OR WOULD RATHER SOME EVERYDAY EVENING ESCAPISM? A PREFERENCE FOR PIZZA OR A PENCHANT FOR FINE DINING? LOOKING FOR THE NICEST FACE PACKS OR SEARCHING FOR THE BEST BUBBLES? DON’T GET PARALYSED BY INDECISION OR HAVE A COLD SWEAT WHEN CHOOSING THE RIGHT SPA – THE GREAT SPA TEST WILL GUIDE YOU STEP BY STEP.

START THE SPA TEST HERE. Hey dreamer – welcome to

Oh, it’s not for you? Well then, Holiday Club if you’d prefer a miserable spa Caribia. experience, Turku is definitely Whether you’re interested in fun for the wrong place. Everything NO The perfect spa experience? a night or the whole weekend, head here is charming . Where everyday is unforgettable. for the hideaway tucked in behind Turku’s student village and the Helsinki YES highway.

Hey come on! Of course Delight in the bubbles and waterslides everyone enjoys great food. Oh no! Unfortunately we need a little more of the pools, whilst in the warm outdoor Now go back and continue information – splendour, experiences and pool watch the world from a safe distance. the test! NO unforgettable moments are just part of the amazing deals for every spa in this test. From the Harmony Spa wellness department, it’s handy to step outside Try this next one. and head straight for pizza or a glass of Do you enjoy pampering and ama- champagne. Perhaps play a few lively Uh oh – are you out of the zingly delicious food? rounds of miniature golf, or just relax in loop? Go back and answer, the steam sauna, that’s just ne too. “Yes”, even if you don’t like YES Why go to the Caribbean, when you can smoked fish. We’ll explain later. go to Caribia.

Oh dear, we’re not very good at designing NO these tests. This doesn’t provide alternati- ves either. Let’s try to be more specific. YES Do you want to taste fish Are you travelling by boat Is an oasis on the edge of Turku YES NO locally raised and smoked, (or perhaps in a motorhome)? just lovely, the type for everyday which you can even take home with you? evenings? With champagne on Tuesdays, if we’re going to let our- YES NO selves dream. Don’t worry it’s not an emergency. Have you always wanted to go to a place called Armon Valley, where the sun always shines? Perhaps you could get to know the city’s spa culture, Right then, this is the place! This in a place where spa activities have been a is the top choice for boaters and Hey – super choice. If it's worked for feature since the start of the 1700’s? YES caravaners over 300 years, chances are it’s got to be pretty good. Introducing: Kasnäs NO – guest marina, caravan park and Naantali Spa. spa in the same package, wrapped Unfortunately, here those lookingfor up in the arms of the archipelago. champagne are sure to find it – as Well then, doubting Tuomas. Time to pull out the The distinctive maritime atmosphe- well as magnificent views of the sea, final magic card from our sleeve, in the form of a tranquil pool department, massage re beckons you to stay awhile, and an island paradise. Sit down and fall in love with why not – from the seascape views therapies, rose-scented baths and MATIAS TANNER MATIAS from your own room to languishing Ruissalo Spa. breakfast in bed. in a steam sauna, everything is Whether you want to go on holiday or have With food to suit every taste, from photo photo pretty amazing. an inspiring meeting, Ruissalo Spa is the ideal Scandinavian to Thai. After some Whether you’re a local or just choice. Enjoy an evening strolling along the sha- indulgent dining, take a stroll in the moving from car to boat, Kasnäs is a ded oak forest road, admiring the 19th Century magnificent surroundings, or borrow worthwhile experience. lace villas, as well as an even longer morning in a pair of skates and go see what the archipelago has to offer. Oh, and the explanation we pro- one of the spa’s newly renovated rooms. mised – eating fish is by no means And so, whilst gazing onto the Airisto Sea from The 300 years of training hasn’t LAURA ANDERSSON LAURA mandatory. Sometimes these tests the spa pools, you can realise for yourself, just been lost.

text text are a bit tricky. how perfect a spa holiday can be.

holidayclubresorts.com/en/resorts/caribia/ | kasnas.com | naantalispa.fi | ruissalospa.fi 23 SUPER FUN FOR THE LITTLE ONES! ARE YOU SMALL? HAVE YOU GOT KIDS OR DO YOU KNOW SOMEONE PLAYFUL? QUICKLY, COME TO TURKU THEN! CREATE SOME CLASSIC PAPER DOLLS AND DRESS THEM UP FOR THESE FANTASTIC DAY TRIPS. GIVE IT A TRY AND VISIT ALL THE PLACES YOURSELF – YOU’LL FIND MORE FUN IDEAS AT KISSMYTURKU.FI!

GIVE US NAMES! TIIA IKOLA TIIA illustrations LIINA KOMI LIINA NAANTALI’S MOOMINWORLD text text IS AN ODE TO THE ARCHIPELAGO AND A TRIBUTE TO TOVE JANSSON’S IMAGINATION.

24 — KISS MY TURKU 2019 LET’S SWIM!

JUKUPARK IS AN ENORMOUS AND SPECTACULAR WATERPARK. WHAT? UP THERE!

IN FLOWPARK YOU’LL FIND ROPE TRAILS IN THE TREES. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF REASONS WHY THE ADVENTURE PARK IS POPULAR. FREE ADMISSION!

VEPSÄ , WELL – WHAT CAN WE SAY? – THE CITY OF TURKU’S ISLAND OF FUN. TAKE THE WATERBUS AND PICNIC WITH YOU! 25 text ILONA KANGAS photos KIM ALLEN-MERSH 26 — KISS 2019 MYTURKU UP THE HILL OF KERTTULINMÄKI. FOUND THERE IS THE MEMORIALFOUNDIS THE THERE AUTHOR JARI SALONEN WALKED TO THE HIRSIPUUMÄKI SITE OF EXECUTION DESIGNED BY ESKO HILLILÄ.

Notorious hills

TURKU’S SEVEN HILLLS ARE FINLAND’S BEST VANTAGE POINTS FOR VIEWS OF THE HISTORIC AND BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPES OF THE RIVER AURA. HOWEVER, THEY ARE ALSO ASSOCIATED WITH FASCINATING AND MACABRE STORIES, WHICH WE EXPLORE ALONGSIDE TURKU’S CRIME NOVELIST, JARI SALONEN.

inmä rttul ki an summit of Ke d t he he d t me L, SLENDER M ar mo TAL AN tow ria HE STRIDES lightly l aw T aiting there. He is Turku detective novelist, Jari Salonen, with whom we are searching for clues in the hills of Turku, why for time immemorial people have found fasci- nation in crime. On a September evening, Kerttulinmäki is a peaceful residential area. Close by is the beautiful old Kerttulin School, in which former president Mauno Koivisto studied. At the end of a nearby apartment building there is a mural depicting the urban environment. The surrounding buildings are well main- tained. Below the memorial are grow boxes, in which locals living close by grow vegetables. You might also see flowers grown there. At night, the silhou- ette of the nearby cathedral is visible from atop the hill. This area is very different from how it was hundreds of years ago. From medieval times to the 1700’s, Kerttulinmäki was known as Hirttomäki (‘Lynch Hill’). Criminals were executed and the bodies were left to hang as a warning to others, such as those travelling from along the Häme Härkätie road. Our fascination with crime and criminals is the same now as it was then. We ask author why he thinks that is? “Detective stories are like a puzzle, plot construction is fascinating, much background work is needed and the characters must be believable. When all this comes together, crime novels are engrossing,” says Salonen, continuing: “Through books, it’s easy to approach safely our fears, dangers and even death, whilst at home, on our sunny travels or in the hammock at a cottage.

27 Puolalanmäki TURKU'S Aninkaistenmäki SEVEN HILLS Kakolanmäki

Yliopistonmäki

Samppalinnanmäki Vartiovuori

Kerttulinmäki

Fascination is strength- The author constantly ened by familiarity and gathers material from repetition. When you dis- around him and the most cover a great character, memorable events and you can easily spend time expressions come to life with them across a series in his books. For example, of books.” a cursing café customer, Of his own main charac- Salonen’s Turku-Italian ter, Jukka Zetterman, Salo- barber, a doctor living nen has a clear opinion: downstairs and a local “Sure, he resembles me, goldsmith, have all left a retired man who likes their mark in the novels. Finnish music, who is a little bit introverted.” Salonen’s fourth Zetterman detective book, Ontuva mies “Of course, I’m not writing specifically about anyone, but (The Hobbled Man), will be published in February 2019. I think the characters come alive through the things I hear. A lot of background work is required because the details The plot thickens as we walk must be right.” When reading Salonen’s books you can be sure no factual errors are found. It is a point of honour to During the conversation, the secret of Salonen’s fast walk- be correct ing pace becomes clear. When planning a book he estimates that he will easily walk about 250 kilometres. The rhythm of walking helps to weave the plot. Inside the rock During writing, he often sits at his home on another of Turku’s seven hills, on Aninkaistenmäki. Other shocking We are on our third hill, which needs no introductions. It is events find their origins there. The nearby street of Maar- Kakolanmäki. iankatu,was the epicentre of the Great Fire of Turku in 1827. An ideal place to reflect on why Salonen chose to write Salonen has been writing his whole life, but an author for crime literature. just a short while. “I liked detective novels. As an author, I don’t feel I have “I was only able to call myself an author when I had pub- the need to tell some ‘great’ story. I prefer to build a com- lished three books,” he asserts. His books are Kuokkavier- plete and intriguing plot, which the reader is interested to aat (The Unexpected Guest, 2016), Jahti (Manhunt, 2017) follow. Another Turku-based detective novelist, Reijo Mäki, and Kätkö (The Hoard, 2018). Salonen has lived in Turku likens his own novels to adult fairy tales. I think along the for decades. The Market Square has an important role in his same lines,” says Jari Salonen. books. It’s in these areas where you are reminded of many sto- “Often with my wife we visit there for morning coffee. ries only suitable for adults: Matti Haapoja, the mass-mur- We’ve become familiar with local entrepreneurs and other derer of Malmelin, Count Lindgren, Auervaara, Jammu regulars.” Siltavuori, Volvo-Markkanen, Juha Valjakkala... decades of

28 — KISS MY TURKU 2019 FINNISH PRISON LINGO

BAGELSSI prison sentence HIVAKKA a package smuggled into prison in the rectum KAKOLAN RUUNA old prisoner, long-term inmate, repeat offender MUULI a drug courier who smuggles drugs into jail RUNDI solitary confinement TORPEDO a prisoner, who can be ordered KAKOLA WAS DESIGNED to collect debts with violence or take out AT THE END OF THE 1830’S revenge FOR REHABILITATION OF VENKULA multiple offender THE DESTITUTE, PROVIDING (Kakola – The Story of a Prison, Lahtinen & Salminen) PERSONNEL FOR CONSTRUCTION SITES FOR EXAMPLE.

THERE’S LOTS OF SPECULATION REGARDING THE We tour with the crime author the prison, which is still a KAKOLA NAME. MANY BELIEVE THE NAME RELATES few years from becoming a hotel. The creepy isolation cells TO THE MENTALLY ILL WHO ONCE RESIDED THERE. and the chapel are kept in their original conditions. The main IN THE DIALECT OF THE SOUTHWEST REGION prison buildings of Kakola have been mainly renovated for ‘KAKO’ MEANS A TROUBLED MIND. apartments. The third prison on the hill, the prison mental hospital, is being renovated as a hotel apartment complex. The walls and doors of the cells are covered with wisdoms tabloid headlines flitter across the eyes. of life or the objects of yearning. "Free and unrestricted sex ser- We’ve come inside the renovated former regional prison. vices", "A life sentence is enough", "Turku is the land of Smurffs". Within the area’s hierarchy, the prison was relatively easy, Many on the insides of these walls, were literally and figura- with many prisoners themselves named it “full of inno- tively naked. cence”: first offenders, financial crimes, short convictions The outer door and the world behind seem very distant. and prisoners on remand. (Rauno Lahtinen and Anu Salmin- en; Kakola – The Story of a Prison.) ZETTERMAN HAS NOT BEEN FORCED in the stories to face the Inside, however, it is stifling, distressing and grim. In the most appalling opponents possible. Salonen’s books do not memoirs of Volvo-Markkanen, it is easy to relate when he indulge in violence, sex, horror or evil. The characters are writes the words: “At the front opens a wide corridor, with long comfortable; the criminals are human. It has become a habit rows of cells on three floors. God help me that was a ghastly place. for Jari Salonen to write his notes at flea markets, whilst his A hell on Earth. It was sure to say that this held prisoners at the wife eagerly searches for old dishes. Maybe the humanity in peak of their career. Everywhere was quiet. You couldn’t continue the characters arise whilst there? down any corridors as all doors were closed. Still I could sense the “It’s fun to write about criminals who have slightly eccen- hopelessly bleak atmosphere.” tric characters. Then you can freely develop the ways that Few Turku locals have visited the hill, even though the the criminal justifies their actions to themselves. They must prison shut down in 2007. Jari Salonen admits to being not be too strange, but not too wholesome either.” a first-timer. Kakola is now described in totally new ways. There is a small coffee roastery, a microbrewery, a restau- HEAD TO THE HILLS FOR A WORKOUT! rant, a café and a frenetic housing development. The former Download the Nomadi mobile app or pick up the Cultural Fitness prison buildings will become a residential area in the coming Route Map from Turku’s main library or tourist information office. On the walking routes you can see the hills of Turku. The longest years, where a funicular will elevate it’s way from the Aura route is 11 kilometres with 1 256 steps along the way. riverside, providing visitors with magnificent views. Read more at: turku.fi/kulttuurikuntoilu

29 MUSEUM

The museums on offer in Turku WÄINÖ AALTONEN WÄINÖ

▼ continue to dazzle time after time. Turku accommodates several museums, so it is little wonder why. Superb FORUM MARINUM FORUM ▼ 11Xmuseums Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova is a museum of history and contem- porary art, where you can explore both the original ruins of medieval Turku as well as the world of contemporary art. Also, M Kitchen & Café and the excellent museum shop are under the same roof. Itäinen Rantakatu 4–6 ABOA VETUS & ARS ARS VETUS NOVA & ABOA ▼ Pharmacy Museum &

Qwensel House Gentry life is presented through the story of Qwensel house extending back to the 1600’s, whilst the Pharmacy Museum introduces you to the history of pharmacy. Take a break in the museum’s quaint Café Qwensel.

PATRICK SELIN and PATRICK Läntinen Rantakatu 13 MUSEUM Ett Hem Ett Hem is the former bourgeoisie home of Turku business-

PHARMACY men Alfred Jacobson and his wife Hélène, which has been ▼ opened for the public to admire. The charming private museum is decorated with art and furniture from the turn of the 20th Century. Piispankatu 14 JULIA LEHTILÄ LEHTILÄ JULIA photos LEHTILÄ JULIA

and Forum Marinum The Maritime Centre Forum Marinum will introduce you to both Naval history and the history of shipbuilding. As a bonus there are elegant museum ships, complemented also by CATHEDRAL smaller, more specialised vessels.

JEMINA SORMUNEN JEMINA Linnankatu 72 URKU ▼ T texts texts

30 — KISS MY TURKU 2019 Kylämäki Village Kylämäki Village is an authentic 1950’s four-building farm, which has been inhabited since the Iron Age. The fascinating courtyard HEM ETT ▲ invites you to take a journey in time, where you can get to know about life on a farm in the 1950’s. Jaanintie 45

Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Museum Spared from the ravages of the Great Fire of Turku in 1827, the wooden homes of Luostarinmäki preserve a small piece of history in the centre of Turku. The original buildings are decorated homes as well as workshops, which present the artisan life from the 18th LUOSTARINMÄKI

and 19th Centuries. ▲ Vartiovuorenkatu 2 Sibelius Museum The Sibelius Museum is a fascinating opportunity to explore the life and works of the beloved composer. In addition, in Finland’s largest museum of music there are exhibitions presenting dif- MUSEUM ferent instrument groups and the history of music appreciation, among others. ART Piispankatu 17 TURKU ▲ Turku Castle Everyone thinks they know Turku Castle, but there is still so much to discover. The over 700-year-old castle conceals inside a vast array of engrossing stories and history. On the guided tour, inquire about the castle’s disappearing elf. Linnankatu 80 CASTLE Turku Art Museum

On the hill of Puolalanmäki the impressive sight of the Turku Art TURKU Museum building looms over the city. Contained within are na- ▲ tional treasures of great significance as well as treats of contem- porary art – everything about the museum evokes breath-taking admiration. Aurakatu 26

Turku Cathedral VILLAGE Turku Cathedral holds a valuable position. It is the oldest building in Finland as well as an intensive compilation of Turku’s history.

And in addition to this, it is also Finland’s National Shrine and a KYLÄMÄKI ▲ vibrant functioning home of the Lord! Tuomiokirkonkatu 1

Wäinö Aaltonen Museum Wäinö Aaltonen Museum is quite literally made for art, as the artist himself participated in the design of the museum building. Inside you can see works from Aaltonen’s basic collection of do- nated works as well as temporary contemporary art exhibitions. Itäinen Rantakatu 38 SIBELIUS MUSEUM SIBELIUS ▲

31 Around the Archipelago Sea in 11 hours

CANOEING, WHAT A LOVELY WAY TO MOVE THROUGH THE WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL ARCHIPELAGO. YEAHYEAH. FROM THE DECK OF THE LARGE CRUISE SHIPS THE ARCHIPELAGO SUMMER OPENS OUT IN FRONT OF YOU, WITH THE TRIP POSSIBLE EVEN IN HIGH HEELS.

Text LIINA KOMI photos KIM ALLEN-MERSH and JEMINA SORMUNEN ALLEN-MERSH and JEMINA KIM photos KOMI LIINA Text - silja.fi SILJA TALLINK with in cooperation

32 — KISS MY TURKU 2019 IF YOU’RE REALLY NOT KEEN ON CANOEING, choose the other extreme. Silja’s 11-hour archipelago cruise departs from the Port of Turku at 8.15am in the morning, and returns to the same place at 7.15pm. In Mariehamn you change boats, switch- ing from the Galaxy to the Baltic Princess. A convenient connecting bridge means there’s no need to set foot on land. Suitable for most, the 11-hour cruise glides through Tur- WHAT ABOUT FOOD? ON ku's Archipelago, which the locals claim to be the best in the THE CRUISE YOU EAT world. If you don’t believe them, then head out on deck. The WELL. HOW ABOUT AN scale of the archipelago, with its tens of thousands of islands ARCHIPELAGO BRUNCH can be better understood from a ship’s deck the height of an OR SILJA’S SHELLFISH apartment building, than from a paddle boat. The shipping SHOWPIECE? channel, which at sea level appears so wide, looks more like a sloping track zigzagging its was between the islands. From the deck of a large cruise ship is a prime place to spot the characteristics of the archipelago. Right next to the Port of Turku is Ruissalo, on the beaches of which you can identify the wooden lace villas from the Tsarist period. Many are now owned by different clubs and associations but also some of the Turku gentry live there too. Some them might bestow a civilized wave of a lace handkerchief as you pass by. On a return trip aboard the Baltic Princess you can wave to Ruisrock during three evenings in summer, as you pass very close by. Or instead, go to Ruisrock and wave back at the ships. It’s an unforgettable sight whatever you choose. and as such is full of horrible stories. Explore the history of Seili through this new virtual tour. BETWEEN TURKU AND MARIEHAMN the cruise ship passes The Wreck of Vrouw Maria. many fascinating and inspiring archipelago destinations, and In 1771, the legendary treasure ship sank in the outer ar- in summer 2019 Silja takes the experience to the next level. chipelago of Nagu, but was discovered in 1999. Through Aboard Galaxy, explore three – BRAND NEW! – routes, by the VR-glasses you can dive to the depths of the wreck. seeing the places along the way through virtual reality. Lågskäri Lighhouse. The Island of Seili. This historic bird and lighthouse island is located about Over the centuries, the beautiful Island of Seili has been 20 kilometres south of Mariehamn. The virtual tour of the an arena for the deportation of the leprous and "insane", old lighthouse offers divine views of the archipelago.

40,000 ISLANDS AS WELL AS HEAVEN

The Archipelago Sea is a region of the Baltic Sea, which borders Turku to the east, Åland to the west, Bengskär lighthouse to the south and the Gulf of Bothnia in the north. The Archipelago Sea has about 40,000 islands and islets, making it the most prolific in the world. To locals and sailors the area is often simply referred to as the Turku Archipelago. Although Turku is a world-renowned nature destination, it has been relatively spared the ravages of mass tourism, such as overcrowding, refuse and marginalised au- thenticity. From the deck of the cruise ship you can spot, for exam- ple, Sea Eagles, which were endangered as little as a decade ago. Now there are hundreds of Sea Eagles in the Archipelago Sea.

33 Enchanting excursions Maximise your Turku experience and get the most out of the city on a guided tour. The time will be much more enjoyable when everything is planned for you. Check out all the tours on offer at www.visitturku.fi

Themed Walking Tours

Want to get to know Turku on foot? buildings and sites of cultural signifi- Why, yes thanks! The family of cance, to name but a few. It’s like being Walk-tours offer the opportunity to in an outdoor museum. experience Turku from many different Or would you prefer to dig to perspectives. Choose the theme that darker depths? The Mysterious Turku interests you, get walking and expand tour opens up a world of mysterious your understanding of Turku. It’s a stories and places across the city. pretty nice concept, that’s perfect for Endure chilling ghosts and crimes, locals as well as tourists. which originated along the River Aura, The Riverside Walk, for example, is and discover if there really is a secret a handy way to explore Turku through- observatory in Turku. Exciting! out its history to its present day. During ▶ Follow your feet and explore the the walking tour along the River Aura themed Walk-tours at: visitturku.fi there’s a focus on urban art, historic

HEY THERE FOODIE, GRAB A FOOD WALK CARD! It will guide you along the most delicious walking tour of Turku, where you can enjoy delectable flavours at the best restaurants in the city. To put it shortly – walk and eat.

M/S Rudolfina Meyer Turku Riverside Walk tours

VISITTURKU and

When the centre is crowded, head out Have you always wanted to see, how History, architecture and art never cease on the water. M/S Rudolfina cruises from the world’s largest cruise ships are built? to fascinate – and Turku has more than Turku every day to the sea and in the The Meyer Turku tour goes deep into enough. Don’t wander alone unnecessar- evenings to Naantali – the perfect little the shipyard industry and the history of ily around the environment, the Riverside ALLEN-MERSH photos KIM getaway. Why not enjoy the bountiful shipbuilding up to the present day. The Walk takes you straight into the lap of buffet and the fresh sea air, whilst gently tour begins at the Maritime Centre Forum urban art and historic buildings. The walk cruising past the lace villas of Ruissalo Marinum, from where it continues to the is full of culture and magnificent scenery, and the shores of Kultaranta. A real zen- Meyer Turku shipyard to observe the ships and of course the oh-so-wonderful like experience for the body and mind. under construction. shores of the River Aura. JEMINA SORMUNEN JEMINA All right reserved. All right text text Feed your interest and read more at ▶ visitturku.fi

34 — KISS MY TURKU 2019 VISIT TURKU Tourist Information Office Open Aurakatu 2, 20100 Turku Mon-Fri 8.30am–6pm Tel: +358 (0)2 2627 444 Sat-Sun 9–16 (1 Apr–30 Sep) [email protected] Sat-Sun 10am–3pm (1 Oct–31 Mar) www.visitturku.fi visitturku.tv

Buy hotel and other travel packages online at: www.visitturku.fi/verkkokauppa JENNI VIRTA JENNI photo photo

Romance is ours. With love from Turku

TURKU ROMANCE 1820–1827 AND ALWAYS.