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Chicago Chicago and — — Food and drink

Dinner Top tables Food and drink — Taste of Chicago

To outsiders, Chicago’s food scene is known for a few things: gargantuan deep- , hot dogs decked out with tomatoes and pickles (anything but ketchup) and, on the flip side, a highly regarded fine-dining culture. To Chicagoans, the city’s food scene is all that and so much more. It’s a city that offers Pacific Standard Time, delicious dining at River North every price point, where California dreaming are as highly sought after as California is Erling brown -basted rib- Table, Donkey and Stick, Wu-Bower’s major source of eye steaks. The city has a Logan Square inspiration and he transports large Mexican population Alpine state it to Pacific Standard Time and, as such, by emulating the state’s free- are an art form. Chefs The sparing tagline for this spirited vibe and - from elsewhere have is “Crusty Bread, focused food. The design of contributed global dishes Brandy, Fire” and it sums the light-filled space – with such as Roman , up the place perfectly. “The terrazzo and wooden floors, Louisiana seasonal is built around lots of foliage, and white walls and Vietnamese coffee old-world traditions of bread- – completes the West Coast and banh mi. baking, charcuterie and feel. This place is equally suited Much of Chicago’s preservation, applied to to a lively with friends dining scene is centred products of the Midwest,” as a business with clients. around the two hubs of says proprietor and sommelier Two wood-burning ovens the West Loop and Logan Matt Sussman, who has turn out fluffy pitta served with Square, where you’ll find assembled an excellent wine list or marinated ahi , a mix of along drawn from the Alpine regions. as well as blistered pizzas such with excellent coffee On the menu are dishes such as as a margherita accented with shops and cocktail bars potato with preserved giardiniera (a zingy – so they’re great places aioli, duck-liver mousse, and Italian relish). Fresh to start your culinary a burger with fontina and and perfectly cooked seafood explorations. But to truly cranberry mostarda (an Italian and meat dishes round off the eat like a Chicagoan, all ) tucked into a menu, enhanced by a wine list you need to do is arrive bun. that leans toward the Golden with an open mind and 2728 West Armitage Avenue, State and Old World tipples. an empty stomach – then 60647 141 West Erie Street, 60654 dig in. 11 773 486 8525 11 312 736 1778 tabledonkeystick.com pstchicago.com

026 027 Chicago Chicago Food and drink— — Food and drink

Proxi, West Loop World tour

Chef Andrew Zimmerman made his name at the excellent West Loop restaurant Sepia; next door is Proxi, his second restaurant and a visual stunner with flavours to match. “Proxi’s menu was inspired by both my travels abroad and my time right here in Chicago,” he says. “I’ve always been drawn to bold, vibrant flavours, and regularly find new dish ideas while exploring Chicago’s rich culinary scene.” The menu includes Asian, Middle Eastern and Mexican influences in dishes such as tempura elotes (grilled corn) and black-pepper pork, and Sarah Mispagel’s tempting are equally inventive. The design is sleek, with floor- Elske, West Loop to-ceiling windows, antique Scandi crush mirrors, leather booths and vibrant tiles. One for a must- Elske means “love” in Danish impress meeting or sealing and Denmark is at the root that business deal. of chefs Anna (pictured) and 565 West Randolph Street, 60661 BoeufHaus, Humboldt Park David Posey’s West Loop 11 312 466 1950 Steak a claim restaurant. Complete with proxichicago.com exposed brick walls and mid- Chicago is a steak town and no century modern furniture, one does the job quite like chef it’s a lovely minimalist spot Brian Ahern (pictured). His for lingering over a that intimate BoeufHaus takes cues draws from both Scandinavian from traditional French and and Midwest traditions. German recipes for dishes such Whether you choose the as short-rib or the beef or order à la tartare stirred up with capers, carte, the dishes are seasonal shallots and Dijon, and served and beautifully presented – with brioche. from the slice of duck-liver tart The 55-day, dry-aged served with salted ramps (wild ribeye comes with Bordelaise, garlic) to the soft-scrambled béarnaise or au poivre sauces; eggs with mushrooms and pescatarians, meanwhile, have kale, and the sunflower-seed options such as celery-cured drizzled with sour Arctic char and Alaskan halibut honey. your meal with a with chanterelles, mussels and glass of homemade schnapps, ginger. Be sure to grab a seat which comes in flavours such at the cosy copper-topped bar as dill or black raspberry. for a pre-dinner martini or 1350 West Randolph Street, German draft beer. 60607 1012 North Western Avenue, 11 312 733 1314 60622 elskerestaurant.com 11 773 661 2116 boeufhaus.com

028 029 Chicago Chicago Food and drink— — Food and drink

Fat , Logan Square Pizza perfection Ticket to Macau 01 Pizzeria Bebu, Goose If you haven’t tried Macanese Island: The crust at – which fuses Chinese, Pizzeria Bebu is a work of Portuguese, African and other art; crispy on the bottom influences – Rice is a with a chewy edge, it’s great place to start. Chef Abe the perfect vessel for Conlon serves dishes such as toppings that range from chilli prawns with garlic and classic (a pitch-perfect fermented black beans, pork- margherita) to creative and-ginger with (an everything- sweet soy and chilli oil, and crust pie with caramelised arroz gordo (the eponymous fat onion, house-cured rice, which comes packed with pancetta and an egg). curried chicken, barbecued Can’t decide? Try a half- pork, linguiça and more). and-half option with two Fat Rice also has an adjacent different toppings. bakery – try the snickerdoodle bebu.pizza (a ) with salted-yolk 02 Spacca Napoli Pizzeria, filling – and a bar, Uptown: With an oven Ladies’ Room, where globally straight from Naples, the inspired cocktails are created pizzas at Spacca Napoli with homemade ingredients. are a worthy ode to the 2957 West Diversey Avenue, Neapolitan style: thin pies 60647 with soft centres and 11 773 661 9170 restrained toppings that eatfatrice.com are all about quality. The cheeseless marinara puts tomatoes front and centre Parachute, Avondale Daisies, Logan Square while the puttanesca gets Korea highlight Fresh from the farm some salty funk from anchovies, black olives At Parachute, Beverly Kim and The succinct menu at Daisies and capers. Johnny Clark put a satisfying comprises handmade spaccanapolipizzeria.com spin on traditional Korean (think beetroot with 03 Bonci Pizzeria, West food, with plates such as dill), daily-changing starters Loop: Roman pizzaiolo bibimbap with yellowfin tuna and crowd-pleasers such as Gabriele Bonci opened or kale-and-beef stew with crispy fried mushrooms and his first US outpost in sweet potatoes. The seasonal cheese curds with buttermilk- Chicago in 2017 and menu changes regularly tarragon dipping sauce. serves his Roman-style but the baked-potato bing Owner and executive chef pizzas al taglio (by bread – stuffed with spring Joe Frillman (pictured, on left) weight). Choose from the onions, cheddar and , sources much of the produce 20 pizza options regularly and served with sour-cream for his vegetable-focused dishes on offer – with toppings butter – is a firm fixture. from his family farm, and such as nduja and burrata A communal table runs adheres to what he calls the or spicy aubergine – and down the middle of the long “Italian philosophy” of using a pizza-maker will snip a and slender space, which is what’s in season in a simple slice for you with scissors. lined on one side with exposed way. “Our daily inspiration is You can select the size so bricks. The list is stellar, derived from the question: If it’s easy to try a number with wines, ciders, sakés and the Midwest were a region in of different-flavoured more helping to make a night Italy, what would the food look slices in one sitting. at Parachute a convivial one. like?” he says. bonciusa.com 3500 North Elston Avenue, 2523 North Milwaukee Avenue, 60618 60647 11 773 654 1460 11 773 661 1671 parachuterestaurant.com daisieschicago.com

030 031 Chicago Chicago Food and drink— — Food and drink

Pequod’s Pizza, Lincoln Park Dive into deep dish

This Lincoln Park staple has been serving its thick- pan pizzas for more than 25 years. The secret to the continued success (and the long wait for a table) is in the caramelised crust: a thin layer of cheese along the exterior gives the pie a chewy edge and extra flavour. For toppings, and pepperoni are classic Chicago. Or you can cut down on the Lula Café, Logan Square wait by sneaking in for the Firm favourite $4.95 weekday cheese-pizza lunch special. Since opening in 1999, Lula 2207 North Clybourn Avenue, Café has anchored Logan 60614 Square’s dining scene with its 11 773 327 1512 ever-changing all-day menu, pequodspizza.com thoughtful drinks list and cult- favourite . “Lula is built on the foundation of the farm- to-table movement but we consistently challenge ourselves to push the boundaries of what that philosophy can mean,” says owner Jason Hammel. Band of Bohemia, Blackbird, West Loop That means dishes such Lincoln Square Top flight as fried Jerusalem artichokes Brewing up a storm with charred Chinese broccoli Executive chef Paul Kahan’s and lamb with The decor in this softly lit Midwestern food is bursting Parisienne and grapes. former Oreo factory may be a with fresh produce and If you’re only in town for one tad eccentric (velvet chairs and brilliant flavour combinations. night, we suggest you head elephant-print curtains) but Dishes are offered à la carte here – oh, and on Mondays the brewery-cum-coffee-shop- or as part of a 10- there’s a $45 prix-fixe dinner. cum-restaurant is popular with tasting menu and include 2537 North Kedzie Boulevard, visitors and residents alike. roasted lamb saddle with 60647 Band of Bohemia offers red grapefruit and Brussels 11 773 489 9554 a smart five-course tasting sprouts; grilled sturgeon with lulacafe.com menu along with mainstays ramp kimchi and such as carrot or Must-try greens; and barbecued kurobuta pork with smoked Chorizo-stuffed medjool pork belly with black garlic, heirloom grits, Brussels sprouts dates from Avec, West Loop mushrooms and smoked kraut, fermented rye and The on Avec’s trout roe. uni (sea urchin) butter. The Mediterranean-focused The pared-back design drinks list caters to all tastes menu are a cult favourite for – with muted tones, white and features in-house beers, a reason. Stuffed with spicy and monochrome excellent cocktails (alcoholic fresh chorizo, wrapped in artwork by Chicago-based and non) and a top-notch crispy bacon and served Lonney White – leaves room wine list. on a piquillo pepper-tomato for the food to shine. 4710 North Ravenswood Avenue, sauce, the dates are salty, 619 West Randolph Street, 60661 60640 sweet, tangy and meaty. 11 312 715 0708 11 773 271 4710 avecrestaurant.com blackbirdrestaurant.com bandofbohemia.com

032 033 Chicago Chicago Food and drink— — Food and drink

Lunch Perfect pit-stops

Cà Phê Dá, Pilsen Same Day Café, Logan Square Dove’s Luncheonette, Vietnam café culture Nice and cheesy Wicker Park Tex-Mex with a twist Located next to sister This airy all-day café is restaurant HaiSous, Cà ideal for a quick lunch, Mexican and Southern Phê Dá is a celebration of with in-house sodas and food converge at Dove’s Vietnamese coffee and street made-to-order Luncheonette, which turns food (such as banh mi and to enjoy either at your out plates such as a sweetcorn gà, a chicken and rice table or the -peppered with country ham and soup), as well as delectable counter. The city’s best grilled a chicken-fried chicken dish such as the pandan cheese comprises cheddar (yes, you heard that right) with brioche with jam. and smoked gouda served chorizo verde gravy. All set “Vietnam is the second- in rosemary bread; you can to a soundtrack of 1960s and largest coffee producer after add bacon, roasted cherry 1970s Chicago blues and soul. Brazil and my extended family tomatoes or rocket but you The diner setting makes is one of those roasters,” Must-try hardly need it. Dove’s an easy spot in which says chef Thai Dang, who from Other sandwiches include to sidle in solo and grab a co-owns the space with his Au Cheval, West Loop a BLT with Sriracha bacon, a cocktail from the tequila wife, Danielle. “We wanted not With two thin , melted scrambled-egg biscuit with and mezcal-centric drinks only to educate Chicago on American cheese, a slather red chimichurri and a curried list during . The Vietnam’s coffee and roadside of Dijonnaise and homemade chicken- with jukebox and vintage photos street-food culture but also to pickles, the cheeseburger at almonds and dates. The give it an old-school vibe but create a welcoming communal Au Cheval is perfection in a homemade sodas range from the food is decidedly modern. space for the neighbourhood.” toasted bun. Add a fried egg coffee to Michigan tart cherry. 1545 North Damen Avenue, 1800 1/2 South Carpenter Street, or bacon if you want to take 2651 North Kedzie Avenue, 60622 60608 it one step further. 60647 11 773 645 4060 11 773 999 1800 auchevalchicago.com 11 773 342 7040 doveschicago.com caphedachi.com samedaycafe.com

034 035 Chicago Chicago Food and drink— — Food and drink

Marisol, Streeterville Fried-chicken feasts Artful 01 Honey Butter Fried Housed in the Museum of Chicken, Avondale: Contemporary Art (see page Slathering the honey 91), Marisol is a restaurant butter directly onto the from chef Jason Hammel of fried chicken at Josh Lula Café (see page 33). “The Kulp and Christine restaurant reimagines the Cikowski’s fried-chicken relationship between food, art temple gives it a rich and design in an immersive salty-sweet flavour that art environment,” he says. melts into the crispy “We’ve created a menu that skin. The menu includes rotates with the seasons, whole pieces, chicken filled with imaginative and strips and towering contemporary flavours inspired sandwiches such as by artistic surroundings.” the OG, with slaw and Marisol serves lunch and candied jalapeño mayo. dinner and also features a honeybutter.com coffee shop and bar. A great 02 The Roost Carolina place to refuel over oysters , various with grilled lemon or fried locations: For Southern- quail with cashew butter and style fried-chicken smoked-date honey. sandwiches – yes, that 205 East Pearson Street, 60611 includes the fiery hot Lost Larson, Andersonville 11 312 799 3599 Nashville – you can’t beat Swede success marisolchicago.com The Roost, where juicy fried chicken with a Bobby Schaffer pictured( ) perfectly crunchy coating honours his Swedish heritage comes on buttery biscuits and the history of the Manny’s Deli, South Loop with toppings such as Andersonville neighbourhood No-frills classic pickles, ’slaw or sharp with this light-filled bakery- cheddar. Alternatively, cum-café. Lost Larson is When you arrive at this try the fried-chicken devoted to Swedish-inflected legendary South Loop deli tacos or classic bone-in dishes such as open- and restaurant, grab a tray chicken with sides. faced sandwiches stacked and load it up with whatever theroostcarolinakitchen. with pickled and old-school dish takes your com lingonberry jam or smoked fancy: hearty meatloaf, chicken 03 Ina Mae & ham with dill havarti (a Danish potpie or a hot turkey dinner. Packaged Goods, cheese), lingonberry-almond Next, head to any free table Wicker Park: New cake dusted with powdered in the -style dining Orleans native Brian sugar, and limpa (a kind of room and tuck in. Jupiter is Chicago’s rye) bread with fennel and Since 1942, the family- go-to guy for Southern star . owned Manny’s has been classics and those The counter is serving homely dishes include his fried chicken, a wonder, with alongside Jewish favourites available in white or dark laced with , lemon such as sandwiches meat and served with a tarts with crowns of toasted overflowing with meat, flaky biscuit and honey. meringue and crumbly melty Reubens, crispy potato The coating is craggy, scones. Take home a loaf of and chopped crispy and perfectly bread made with milled liver – and the crowds keep seasoned, shattering on-site – the flavours range on coming. satisfyingly when you from traditional wholewheat 1141 South Jefferson Street, take a bite. to pumpkin seed and kelp. 60607 inamaetavern.com 5318 North Clark Street, 60640 11 312 939 2855 11 773 944 0587 mannysdeli.com lostlarson.com

036 037 Chicago Chicago Food and drink— — Food and drink

Brunch Top tacos Places to linger Bad Hunter, West Loop Longman & Eagle, Light and bright Logan Square 01 Mi Tocaya Antojeria, Rise and imbibe Logan Square: This is the place to come if Acclaimed chef Diana you fancy a lighter brunch. Part cosy hotel (see page 22), Dávila draws on her The space is bright and airy, part lively tavern, Longman Mexican heritage to much like chef Dan Snowden’s & Eagle is a popular Logan create tacos including vegetable-focused dishes. Square haunt that opens daily the vegetarian milpa, Expect to find a bowl for . Chef Maxwell with charred butternut with grilled market , Robbins’ morning menu ranges squash, chillies, beans za’atar and a soft-boiled egg; from the simple and satisfying and corn crema. The tempura sweet potato with (potato-and-egg breakfast meaty campechano, with coconut yoghurt, or French omelette) cochinita (slow-roasted and pistachio dukkah; and a to the more elaborate (elotes pork), chorizo and carne vegetarian burger in a brioche Benedict with sour-cream asada (grilled and sliced bun with cheddar, mustard hollandaise or French beef), brings the heat. aioli and tomato jam. toast with whipped hot- mitocaya.com The wine list is natural chocolate butter.) 02 Carnitas Uruapan, and Spurlin’s whimsical On the weekend there’s Lower West Side: As pastries include everything a changing list of fresh the name implies, the from carrot-and-coconut and, if you have family-owned Carnitas rolls to parsnip a leisurely day ahead, you Uruapan is all about cake with poached pears should try the Bloody Mary the carnitas (luscious and hazelnut. or extensive whiskey offerings. slow-cooked pork), 802 West Randolph Street, 60607 2657 North Kedzie Avenue, which you order by 11 312 265 1745 60647 the or the pound. badhunter.com 11 773 276 7110 Pair a taco with a side longmanandeagle.com of crispy chicharrones (fried pork skin). carnitasuruapanchi.com Baker Miller, Lincoln Square Lou Mitchell’s, West Loop 03 Antique Taco, various Morning munchies Start the day the old school way locations: There are three locations of Rick Ortiz’s Baked goods are the name of Not much has changed at Antique Taco: Wicker the game at Baker Miller, the Lou Mitchell’s over the years Park, Bridgeport and the café where Dave (pictured) – and that’s a good thing, Loop. Visit them all to try and Megan Miller offer their since the busy diner has been the different fillings, from delicious takes on morning churning out classic dishes mushrooms with guajillo favourites. Biscuits stuffed since 1923. The restaurant is (chilli) purée to smoked with egg custard, avocado open for both breakfast and with onions. toast adorned with radishes lunch, with fluffy pancakes and antiquetaco.com and sourdough French toast with whipped butter, 04 Cruz Blanca Brewery accented with seasonal jams freshly made hash browns and & Taquería, West Loop: sit on the menu alongside grits stuffed omelettes anchoring Celebrity chef Rick and bowls. the morning menu. Bayless focuses on Pie’s the limit The “famous” oatmeal earns Come lunch, there’s a variety tacos at his lively brewery, — that often overstated moniker: of burgers and sandwiches, where you can order When pie cravings strike, Bang it’s the creamiest version you’ll plus daily specials such as build-your-own taco Bang Pie & Biscuits delivers have ever had and comes with turkey , all in hearty plates with meats, salsas sweet and savoury options such cultured cream, cinnamon- portions. If there’s a wait and sides, or composed as a Buffalo chicken potpie. sugar pecans and a dollop of (and there likely will be), tacos such as chopped Bonus: the buttery biscuit jam. Grab a bag of pastries (in don’t worry – staff will greet lamb with crispy cheese sandwiches, with fillings such particular the gooey cinnamon you with holes and and caramelised onion. as candied bacon and pimento buns) on the way out. Milk Duds. rickbayless.com/ cheese, are some of the 4655 North Lincoln Avenue, 565 West Jackson Boulevard, city’s best breakfast fare. restaurants/cerveceria- 60625 60661 bangbangpie.com cruz-blanca 11 773 654 3610 11 312 939 3111 bakermillerchicago.com loumitchells.com

038 039 Chicago Chicago Food and drink— — Food and drink

Big Jones, Andersonville Southern hospitality

A visit to Big Jones is akin to taking a quick jaunt to the southern states. Chef and co-owner Paul Fehribach (pictured) offers a taste of the region’s finest cuisine and ingredients, from a Louisiana crayfish omelette to Alabama catfish and grits. He also draws from historic recipes, with the brunch menu including a colonial-era cornbread and a Big Jones Benedict with house-cured and smoked ham cooked gently in cream. The cocktails too take inspiration from the rich drinking traditions of New Orleans, Savannah and Charleston: we recommend the Sazerac or the Chatham Artillery Punch. The Allis, West Loop 5347 North Clark Street, 60640 House special 11 773 275 5725 bigjoneschicago.com The soaring ceilings and glittering chandeliers create a striking backdrop at this all-day restaurant at Soho House (see page 18), which is open to non-members. Choose between classic western dishes such as homemade granola with Greek yoghurt and berries; the smoked- salmon bagel with tomato, cucumber, capers and ; or the avocado toast topped with hard-boiled eggs, basil, lemon and a sprinkling of chilli. Sink into a sofa for a Must-try leisurely bite or join the Mr G from JP Graziano freelancers at the communal Grocery Co, West Loop table, tapping away at their The speciality sandwich at this keyboards over coffee. There Italian grocery has a lot going are magazines and newspapers on (layers of provolone, hot on offer, the people-watching soppressata, prosciutto and is prime and the walls are salami accented with truffle hung with artwork by the mustard, balsamic vinaigrette, likes of Damien Hirst. hot oil, red-wine and 113-125 North Green Street, more) but it’s a beautifully 60607 balanced construction. 11 312 521 8000 jpgraziano.com theallis.com

040 041 Chicago Chicago Food and drink— — Food and drink

Coffee and sweet treats Brews and bites Four Letter Word, Logan Square Swear by it

This single-origin-focused coffee shop and roaster opened on Burgazada island (off the coast of Istanbul) in 2014 and two years later, with two of the three owners based in Chicago, began beans stateside at The Plant (see page 45). In 2018, it added this outpost in Logan Square. Served alongside pour-overs, espresso, drip and Turkish Metric Coffee, Near West Side coffee are pastries baked at Serious about beans the neighbouring Cellar Door Provisions. The light-filled, There’s just a handful of airy space has just a handful of seats at Metric Coffee, tables, a long brick coffee bar established in 2013 by Darko and a clear focus on design, Arandjelovic (founder of Caffe with distinctive light fixtures Streets in Wicker Park) and and art books for your perusal. Xavier Alexander (former 3022 West Diversey Avenue, roasting manager at nearby 60647 Intelligentsia). Together the pair 11 773 360 8932 roast beans – sourced from the 4lwcoffee.com likes of Ethiopia, Kenya, Peru and Honduras – on-site with a 1960s German machine. Swing by the Fulton Market Loba Pastry 1 Coffee, café for a cup of coffee, cold- Lakeview pressed juices and pastries In for a treat from Chicago bakeries Hewn and Spilt Milk – or simply to Valeria Taylor (pictured) pick up a pack of ground beans has a knack for flavour to go. There are also coffee- combinations, which means brewing workshops; register her squeeze of a coffee shop online in advance. in Lakeview is packed with 2021 West Fulton Street, Suite sweet and savoury treats. K-101B, 60612 The ever-changing menu 11 312 982 2196 features delights such as a metriccoffee.com pepita crunch bar topped with honey-caramelised nuts and caramel-cherry monkey bread. Ice, ice, baby The coffees include a latte — sweetened with violet-flower Pretty Cool will syrup and an Arcadian latte, remind you why you chased Taylor’s take on a Turkish after the ice-cream as a coffee. You can also go simple child. Dana Cree with a single-origin espresso serves creative ice lollies such and a sourdough muffin as coffee pretzel toffee and (crunchy on the outside, horchata (a creamy fluffy in the middle). rice-and-almond concoction). 3422 North Lincoln Avenue, prettycoolicecream.com 60657 11 773 456 9266 lobapastry.com

042 043 Chicago Chicago Food and drink— — Food and drink

Markets Stall order Go green — On the first Saturday of each month, urban farm and sustainable food business Green City Market, centre The Plant hosts a Lincoln Park farmers’ market. Drop by Food fest to peruse produce grown both by the tenants and Held outside between May other Chicagoans. and October and indoors at plantchicago.org/farmers- market the Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum throughout the rest of the year, the Lincoln Park location of Green City Market draws devoted food lovers Sawada Coffee, West Loop and chefs seeking the best Artist at work vegetables, and other products for their . Japanese barista and latte-art Satellite locations of the champion (really) Hiroshi market are sprouting around Sawada opened his first the city but the Saturday US coffee shop in 2015 in iteration remains the biggest Chicago’s former meatpacking farmers’ market. district. Behind the graffiti- Weave your way between covered façade is an industrial stands offering maple syrup, space dotted with ping-pong charcuterie, cheese and more tables and pinball. – even wood-fired pizzas – Sawada’s signature military all from Illinois and nearby latte mimics camouflage – Michigan and Wisconsin. Doughnut Vault, River North with matcha, vanilla, cocoa Gaslight Coffee Roasters, Weekly chef demos invite you The hole game powder and espresso – and Logan Square to see how the city’s top chefs a matching doughnut from A good roasting are using the seasonal produce. Chicago’s tastiest doughnuts Doughnut Vault (see left) is Corner of North Clark Street come from a tiny shopfront available. The short menu With metal chairs straight and North Lincoln Avenue inside a former bank vault. also includes teas and boozy out of an old-school classroom 11 773 880 1266 There’s no seating, just steamers – spiked drinks and taxidermy hanging on greencitymarket.org trays lined with delectable such as a milk-based Scotch walls lined with baroque doughnuts. Choose between and a honey drink laced wallpaper, the long-standing daily offerings such as the with almond. Gaslight Coffee Roasters is vanilla, the chestnut-glazed 112 North Green Street, 60607 a fine spot in which to linger and the buttermilk old- 11 312 754 0431 over a silky latte. On weekdays fashioned, as well as specials sawadacoffee.com freelancer types abound while including the Mexican hot- on the weekend Logan Square chocolate cake. residents catch up with friends Doughnut Vault used to Get buzzed over egg sandwiches, bowls command hours-long lines — of spiced tomato soup and but thankfully its sugary Coffee roaster Intelligentsia is other homely fare. can now be found at other spreading across the country Coffee is roasted on-site cafés around town. Having but it was born in Chicago, with beans sourced from said that, it’s well worth the where it offers its brews at six Guatemala, Ethiopia and wait. Bear in mind it opens at cafés. The industrial design of further afield. If you like what 08.00 and closes when stock the Millennium Park location you sip, grab a bag of beans sells out (sometimes by 10.00). echoes the nearby sculptures. to go. 401 North Franklin Street, intelligentsiacoffee.com 2385 North Milwaukee Avenue, 60654 60647 11 312 285 2830 gaslightcoffeeroasters.com doughnutvault.com

044 045 Chicago Chicago Food and drink— — Food and drink

Drinks Fine imbibing Sportsman’s Club, Humboldt Park Drinking den

Sportsman’s Club is a bar for all seasons. The taxidermy deer heads lining the slender space and the comfortable booths contribute to a cosy feeling, while the back windows open out onto a big patio that hosts summer with some of the best chefs in town. Four cocktails are offered each day, along with wine and craft beer. Or you can order a round of house amaro shots, served in chilled shot glasses. 948 North Western Avenue, 60622 11 872 206 8054 drinkingandgathering.com

Lost Lake, Logan Square Income Tax, Edgewater Red & White Wine Bar, Parson’s Chicken & Fish, Paradise found Wine and dine Bucktown Logan Square Glass act The great outdoors This vibrant bar is all about Located in the northern the tropical decor and tiki neighbourhood of Edgewater, In 2018, a decade after Red Chicagoans love a good patio cocktails. Bartender Paul this sharply designed, low-lit & White Wines opened in and Parson’s has one of the McGee and co-owner Shelby bar and restaurant features a Bucktown, the sharp little best in the city. With a sea of Allison have created a beautiful wine list that’s geared towards shop opened an equally sharp tables, bench seating den with -print Old World producers. bar next door. It offers the and a ping-pong table, this wallpaper, bamboo decor and Pull up a seat at the same natural wines by the is somewhere to spend a a smiling team of bartenders marble bar and ask for a glass or bottle, as well as a low-key summer evening. in Hawaiian shirts. glass of red or peruse the concise menu of cheese and There are also plenty of Hop on a stool and ask menu of lesser-known charcuterie plus a few small tables indoors come winter for one of their perfectly cocktails (try the cider-based plates and mains. and the Negroni slushy is balanced cocktails. The banana Stone Fence, spiked with The by-the-glass list is delicious whatever the season. daiquiri – featuring Jamaican, armagnac), plus the vermouth, short and sweet and the staff Local beers and crowd- Trinidadian and spiced rum – brandy, cider and beer lists. will talk and taste you through pleasing cocktails work well has a banana dolphin leaping A European-focused dinner as many as you want until you with grilled or fried chicken out of the glass. menu from chef Ellison find the perfect glass. or a fried-fish sandwich. 3154 West Diversey Avenue, Park will keep you sated. 1861 North Milwaukee Avenue, 2952 West Armitage Avenue, 60647 5959 North Broadway, 60660 60647 60647 11 773 293 6048 11 773 897 9165 11 773 486 4769 11 773 384 3333 lostlaketiki.com incometaxbar.com redandwhitewineschicago.com parsonschickenandfish.com

046 047 Chicago Chicago Food and drink— — Food and drink

Estereo, Logan Square Night and day

As the neon sign on the wall proclaims, Estereo is an all-day bar. Drop by in the afternoon for a coffee or come in the evening for drinks made with Latin spirits such as mezcal, tequila, cachaça and pisco. When night falls, live DJs set up in the corner. Bartender Michael Rubel has assembled an impressive spirits list and the cocktails are indebted to local produce. In summer the windows roll up to let in the breeze. 2450 North Milwaukee Avenue, 60647 11 773 360 8363 Scofflaw, Logan Square estereochicago.com Cocktails and

Gin is the main focus at this dark and broody cocktail bar where the drinks menu changes every three months but always includes a swizzle that matches the season. Sample gins from around The Loyalist, West Loop the world or try one in a tiny Classy cocktails ’Tini, a miniature martini. The drinks list includes Tucked underneath John a glossary of cocktails and and Karen Shields’ fine- there’s a menu of . dining restaurant Smyth is Cindy’s, The Loop At midnight fresh-baked The Loyalist, known for High life chocolate-chip cookies are its well-made cocktails and handed out – a reason to stay. killer burger. The bar’s Old The sweeping views from 3201 West Armitage Avenue, Fashioned is an elegant the outdoor patio at Cindy’s, 60647 variation on the classic, with the rooftop bar on the 13th 11 773 252 9700 maple and a dash of amaro floor of the Chicago Athletic scofflawchicago.com for a hint of bitterness, while Association Hotel (see page other cocktails feature seasonal 25), take in Millennium Park, ingredients such as birch, Lake Michigan, Cloud Gate charred apples and gooseberry. Late-night eats and a whole load of dazzling A couple of beers clock in — architecture in the Loop. But at $4 here so you can drink After a night out, swing by crowds aren’t queuing up for on the cheap while indulging The Wiener’s Circle for char the vista alone: the cocktails in devilled eggs with smoked (grilled) dogs, burgers and are exceptional, biodynamic salmon, an aged rib eye freshly cut fries with tangy wines and Midwest beers are drizzled with brown butter cheese. Place your order with available and the comfort food or the Loyalist cheeseburger, the staff at the counter and is designed for sharing. Also topped with a mass of onions, snag a – it’s not open for brunch and lunch. pickles and American cheese. fancy but it’s a classic late- 12 South Michigan Avenue, 177 North Ada Street, 60607 night Chicago custom. 60603 wienercircle.net 11 773 913 3774 11 312 792 3502 smythandtheloyalist.com cindysrooftop.com

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