602 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ancestor worship 559 ATMs 578 animals 212, see also birds atomic testing 424, 550-1, 553-4 bêche-de-mer 466, 546-7 Auki 338-9, 340 blue worms 271 Aunu’u 302 deer 167 Austral Islands 417-18, 419 dogs 212, 468, 521 Avarua 203-9, 206-7 dolphins 30, 96, 164, 288, 289, Avarua Landing 237-8 313, 328, 358, 366, 393, 423, Avatoru 397 466, 527 dugongs 489 flying foxes 189, 244, 313, 442, 521 B frogs 343 Bahá’í House of Worship 266 giant clams 500 Baie des Citrons 150 A pigs 232, 441, 492, 519 Baie d’Oro 185 abseiling 162, 478 turtles 279, 423, 466, 487, 488, Bainimarama, Commodore Frank 136, accommodation 26-8, 482, see 500 137-8, 549, 551 also individual locations whales 8, 30, 173, 189, 190, 214, Baker, Reverend Shirley 447, 463 activities 28-30, see also individual 313, 358-9, 366, 393, 409-10, bargaining 578 activities, individual countries 423, 444, 447, 452, 454, 461, bark cloth 139, 288, 312, 466, 564, Ahe 405 466, 8 567-8, 564 ahu 54 Aniwa 496 Bay of Islands (Qilaqila) 135 air travel 14, 470, 582-4, 585-6 Anse Vata 150 Bay of Virgins 417 Aitutaki 221-7, 222 A’opo Conservation Area 281 Beachcomber Island (Tai) 99-100 alcohol 573-4 Apia 253-65, 258-9, 266 beaches 16 Alofaaga Blowholes 284 Apolima 274 Aganoa Beach 283 Alofi 532-3 Aquarium des Lagons 150 Alega Beach 302 Ambae 513-14, 513 Aquarium Naturelle 173 Aleipata 267 501-4, 502 Arahoho Blowhole 357 Anakena Beach 50, 55 Amédée Islet 150 Aranui, the 407 ’Ano 459 American 13, 40, 295-315, archaeological sites 17, 540 Anse Vata 150 297, 13 American Samoa 309 Aop Beach 499 accommodation 295, 307, 313 Cook Islands 211, 229, 233, 235 Avaio Beach 302 arts 312 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 9, 47, 50, Baie des Citrons 150 business hours 313 54, 55, 56, 9 Baie d’Oro 185 climate 295 81, 121, 122 Champagne Beach 512 culture 312 French Polynesia 358, 361, 371, Eton Beach 487 emergencies 296 392, 407, 408, 411, 412, 413, 414 ’Eua’iki 460 embassies & consulates 313 New Caledonia 173 Foe’ata 460 environment 312-13 Samoa 273, 281, 282 Ha’atafu Beach Reserve 442 festivals 313 441, 442, 448 Hakanai Bay 412 food & drink 295, 296, 313 Tahiti 358 Hana Iti Beach 373 history 311-12 488 Hanatekuua Bay 415 internet resources 314 architecture 12, 112, 287, 569 Hinakauea 459 itineraries 296 area codes 580 Houmale’eia Beach 447 money 296, 313, 314 Armarvon Islands 337 Ireupuow 493 population 296, 312 ’Arorangi 210 La Cité de Corail 371 sailing & yachting 315 arts 564, 567-70 Lagon Bleu (Motu Tehatea) 401 snorkelling 302 American Samoa 312 Les Sables Roses 401, 403 telephone services 296, 314 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 53, 57 Lonnoc Beach 512 tours 303 Cook Islands 243 Luengoni Beach 176 travel seasons 295 Fiji 139 Mahamat beach 172 travel to/from 296, 314-15 French Polynesia 10, 415, 422-3, 10 Manihina 411 travel within 315 New Caledonia 188 Maré 173 visas 296, 314 Samoa 287-8 Marmara Beach 327 Anaho 410 342 Matira Beach 384 Tonga 465-6 Ma’uke 232-3 Vanuatu 520-1 Muri 210 000 Map pages Arutanga 221-2 Natadola Beach 79-80 000 Photo pages ’Atiu 12, 228-32, 230, 12 488 603 Ofu Beach 308 books 536, 569 Dwarf’s Cave 280 Oholei Beach 441 birdwatching 243 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 54 O’otu Beach 222 children, travel with 290 Peninsula 282 Oravaru Beach 228 Cook Islands 241, 243 Feles Cave 487 Ovahe 55 Fiji 139 Grotte de Kong Houloup 179 Painapo Beach 363 New Caledonia 188 Grotte de la Reine Hortense 185 Palagi Beach 301 Samoa 261, 287, 556 Grotte de la Troisième 184 Peng 176 tattoos 568 Grotte les Joyaux de Luengoni Plage du PK9 401 Tonga 446 176 INDEX Plage Publique (Rangiroa) 397 Vanuatu 518, 519 Hole of the Moon 514 Playa Pea 47 Bora Bora 384-92, 386-7, 6-7 Le Bone de la Léproserie 173 B-C Pointe Vénus 357 Bougainville, Louis-Antoine de 311, Malangauliuli 514 Port Boisé 162 420, 517, 543 Mangaia 237 Sa’ilele 301 Boullaire, Jacques 423 Maraa Grotto 358 Saleapaga 269 Boulouparis 164 Mariner’s Cave 460 275 Bouma National Heritage Park 131 Ma’uke 232 St Lawrence Beach 487 Bounty Island (Kadavu) 99 Millennium Cave 505 Ta’ahiamanu (Mareto) Beach 363 Bounty, the 108, 420, 451, 517, 527, Mitiaro 235 Takauroa Beach 228 529 Naihehe Cave 81 Taunganui Harbour 228 Bourail 166-7 Pe’ape’a Cave 270, 279 Taungaroro 228 breadfruit 571 Piula Cave Pool 268 Teavaro Beach 362 budget Riba Cave 338 Temae Beach 362 American Samoa 296 Swallows’ Cave 459-60 Tereia Point 392 Cook Islands 197 Trou Bleu d’Anawa 179 Tikehau 403 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 45 Trou de Bone 173 Tuherahera 403 Fiji 61 Vaipoiri Cave 361 Tumai 228 French Polynesia 347 Valeva Cave 487 Turtle Beach 327 New Caledonia 146 Yalo Cavern 498 ’Upolu 270 Samoa 251 caving 244 Vaiala Beach 253 Solomon Islands 317 cell phones 15, 580 Wailoaloa Beach 68 Tonga 431 cemeteries, see also tombs White Sands Beach 486 Vanuatu 473 Calvaire Cemetery 414 bêche-de-mer 466, 546-7 buildings, see notable buildings New Zealand War Cemetery 166 beer 197, 229, 251, 347, 566, 573, 574 Bula Festival 20 Shirley Baker Monument & Bellona 337 bus travel 587 European Cemetery 447 Beqa 87-8 business hours 576, see Tetamanu graveyard 401 also individual countries Beqa Lagoon 85, 87 Central Province (Solomon Islands) 327-8 bicycle travel, see cycling Cession Site 112 birds 423, 502 C Chanel, St Pierre Louis Marie 546 cagou 149, 161, 162, 189 cagou 149, 161, 162, 189 Chaudhry, Mahendra 137 honeyeater 343 camping 27 children, travel with 37-8 megapodes 328, 338, 462, 466, canned meats 467, 572 books 290 504, 521 cannibal sites 498 Cook Islands 213, 245 red shining parrot 444, 466 cannibalism 122, 496, 559 Fiji 140 swiftlets 228, 244, 270, 279, 444, canoes 525, 559 French Polynesia 425 459-60 canyoning 359 New Caledonia 151, 191 birdwatching 30, 122, 133, 214, Cape Taputapu 301 243, 229 Samoa 290 Caqalai 114 blackbirding 136, 518, 547-8 Tonga 467 car travel 15, 587-8 Bligh, Captain William 108, 451, Vanuatu 481, 523 cargo cults 490, 493, 518 517, 529 Choiseul 337 Carteret, Philip 341-2 blowholes 128, 284, 357 Christian, Fletcher 451, 543 carvings 520 blue holes 495, 512 Christianity 138, 286, 464-5, 544, Castaway Island (Qualito) 103 Blue Lagoon 108 546, 559-60 cathedrals, see churches & blue worms 271 churches & cathedrals cathedrals boat travel 15, 389, 585, 586-7 Cathédrale Notre-Dame 351 caves 17 boating, see sailing Cathédrale St Joseph 148 ’Anahulu Cave 442 Boenechea, Don Domingo de 420 Catholic church (Vao) 183 ’Atiu 12, 228, 12 Bon Année 519 Centenary Chapel 435 604 churches & cathedrals continued emergencies 197 Davis, Sir Tom 243 Chapelle Notre Dame de Lourdes embassies & consulates 245 DC3 aeroplane 470 176 environment 243 decompression chambers 158, 486 CICC (Arutanga) 221 festivals 245 deer 167 Cook Islands Christian Church food & drink 196, 197, 245 Denarau Island 73-4, 74 (Avarua) 204 history 241-2 dengue fever 589 Cook Islands Christian Church holidays 247 Des Voeux Peak 126 (Mitiaro) 235 internet access 246 disabilities, travellers with 581

INDEX Divided Church 234 internet resources 246 Disappearing Island 450 Église de la Sainte Famille 363 itineraries 197, 199 discount cards 428 Église Ste Jeanne d’Arc 169 language 197, 592 dive centres 36

C-E Holy Family Cathedral 300 money 197, 244, 245, 246-7 dive sites 16, 13 see also wrecks Iglesia Hanga Roa 47 population 242 Beqa Lagoon 85, 87 Ivirua CICC 237 sailing & yachting 212-13, 248 Bligh Water 32 lava-ruined churches 278 telephone services 197, 247 Bonegi 328 LMS Church 278 tours 205, 213-14, 223-4, 229-30, Dreamhouse 116 Matavera CICC 211 233-4, 239, 249 Dungeons & Dragons 116 Mormon Temple 254 travel seasons 196 Florida (Nggela) Islands 327-8 Mulivai Catholic Cathedral 254 travel to/from 197, 247-8 Garuae Pass 401 Navoka Methodist Church 112 travel within 248-9 Giant Clam Garden 488 Notre-Dame Cathedral of the visas 197 Marquesas Islands 408 Gizo 333 Cook Islands Maori 592 Oneroa CICC 237 Great Astrolabe Reef 133 Cook’s Bay 362, 367 Pierre Chanel Church 533 Great White Wall 124 Coolidge, the 36, 507, 509, 510 Pouébo 172 Nasonisoni Passage 116 copra 135 Protestant Temple 363 Paul’s Rock 478 Copra Shed Marina 118 St Joseph’s Cathedral 453 Rainbow Reef 124 Coral Coast 79-88 Tamarua CICC 237 Tonga 444 Coral Coast Scenic Railway 80 Temple de Paofai 351 diving 9, 31-6, see also individual coral ear 590 countries Wairiki Catholic Mission 125 coral gardens 110 Diwali 21 ciguatera 590 credit cards 578 dogs 212, 468, 521 cinema, see films cricket 273, 559 Dog’s Head, the 498-9 climate 19-21, see also individual countries Cross-Island Track 211 dolphins 30, 96, 164, 288, 289, 313, 328, 358, 366, 393, 423, 466, 527 climate change 243, 537, 554, 583 cruise ships 193, 529 Mendaña y Neyra, Don Alvaro de 241, coconut 571-2 cultural centres, see also museums & galleries 341, 420, 542 coffee 228-9, 478 Arts Village 84 drinking water 590 concrete parks 441 Centre Culturel Goa Ma Bwarhat dugongs 489 cone shells 590 171 d’Urville, Dumont 543 consulates 577, see also individual Centre Culturel Yeiwene Yeiwene countries 173-4 Cook, Captain James 186, 237, 241, Cultural Centre (Lakatoro) 499 E 357, 420, 441, 464, 517, 543, 545 earth ovens 573 Ekasup Cultural Village 478 Cook Islands 12, 40, 196-249, 198, earthquakes 286, 311, 550 Highland Paradise Cultural Centre 12, 17, 562 210 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 39, 44-59, accommodation 26, 27, 196, 235, 46, 9 Leweton Cultural Village 505 241, 244 accommodation 26, 27, 44, 50-2, Ransuck Cultural Village 505 arts 243 57-8 Tjibaou Cultural Centre 149-50 books 241, 243 arts 53, 57 Vanuatu Cultural Centre 476-7 business hours 245 business hours 58 culture 537, 556-60, see also children, travel with 213, 245 climate 44 individual countries climate 196 culture 57 currency 15 culture 242 diving & snorkelling 32, 47 cycling 38, 50, 59, 111, 193, 293, 315, diving & snorkelling 31-2, 211-12 371, 376, 392, 401, 428, 432, 447, electricity 58 electricity 246 455, 587 environment 57 food & drink 44, 52-3, 58 history 56-7 D internet access 58 000 Map pages dance 18, 53, 139, 188, 243, 264, 391, 000 Photo pages 422, 466, 492, 500, 520, 567 internet resources 58 605 language 45, 592, 593 Quirós, Pedro Fernández de 241, diving & snorkelling 32, 82, 85, 102, money 45, 58 517, 543 105, 111, 116-17, 124, 127, 128, 129, politics 56 Roggeveen, Jacob 56, 284, 311, 543 131, 133, 140 telephone services 58 Schouten, Willem 463, 543 embassies & consulates 140 tours 49, 50 Tasman, Abel 442, 463, 543 emergencies 61 travel seasons 44 Wallis, Samuel 420, 543 environment 139-40 travel to/from 45, 58-9 events, see festivals & events food & drink 60, 61, 140 travel within 59 exchange rates internet access 141 INDEX 476-89, 476 American Samoa 296 itineraries 61 Ekasup Cultural Village 478 Cook Islands 197 language 591-2 El Niño 555 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 45 money 61, 140, 141 E-F electricity 577, see also individual Fiji 61 politics 136 countries French Polynesia 347 population 61 Elevuka (Treasure Island) 100 New Caledonia 146 religion 138-9 Ellington Wharf 96-8 Samoa 251 sailing & yachting 89, 101, 111-12, embassies & consulates 577, see Solomon Islands 317 117, 118, 142-3 also individual countries Tonga 431 telephone services 61, 141 emergencies Vanuatu 473 tours 81, 85, 103, 107, 112, 144 American Samoa 296 travel seasons 60 Cook Islands 197 travel to/from 142 F Fiji 61 travel within 61, 142-4 fa’afafine 286-7 New Caledonia 146 visas 141 Faaroa River 377 Samoa 251 Fiji Museum (Suva) 88 Fafá Island 443 Solomon Islands 317 Fijian People’s Party 137 Fafa O Sauai’i 281 Tonga 468 films 104, 108, 140, 520, 536, 569 Fagamalo 280 Vanuatu 473 fish poisoning 590 Fagatele Bay National Marine fishing 28 Emiotungun 501, 502 Sanctuary 302 Cook Islands 204, 211, 223, 239 Endu 502 Faie 371 Fiji 85, 129, 133 Enoghae 333 fakaleiti 465 Samoa 257, 289 environmental issues 552-5, see Fakarava 401-3 also individual countries Tonga 453, 460 fale 12, 289, 12 eosinophilic meningitis 589 Vanuatu 479, 487, 500, 507, 522 Falealupo Rainforest Preserve 281 Epi 489, 490 Fitiiu Point 384 Fangataufa 424 island 477 Flannery, Tim 343 Fare 371 (Hat) Island 487 Florida (Nggela) Islands 327-8 Farino 165 496 flying foxes 189, 244, 313, 442, 521 Fatu Hiva 417 , see Santo Foa 449 Festival of Pacific Arts 20 Esther Honey Foundation 212 Foe’ata 460 festivals & events 19-21, 573, see Eton 486-7 also individual festivals Foelifuka 460 ’Eua 443-5 American Samoa 313 Fofoa 460 ’Eua’iki 460 Cook Islands 245 Fongafale islet 530 ’Euakafa 460 French Polynesia 351, 415, 425 Fonuafo’ou 450 European explorers 136, 420 New Caledonia 191 food & drink 18, 566, 571-4, 566, see also individual countries Bligh, Captain William 108, 451, Samoa 291 517, 529 football 558 Tonga 455 Boenechea, Don Domingo de 420 French Polynesia 41, 346-429, 348-9, Vanuatu 503, 519 Bougainville, Louis-Antoine de 311, 6-7, 8, 10, 34, 566 fiafia 287, 574 420, 517, 543 accommodation 27, 28, 346, 424 Figiel, Sia 569 Christian, Fletcher 451, 543 arts 10, 415, 422-3 Fiji 39, 60-144, 62-3, 10, 34, 561, Cook, Captain James 186, 237, 241, business hours 425 566 357, 420, 441, 464, 517, 543, 545 children, travel with 425 d’Urville, Dumont 543 accommodation 26, 27, 60, 84, 124, 140 climate 346 Galaup, Jean-François de 311 arts 139 consulates 425 Le Maire, Jacob 463, 543 books 139 culture 421-2 Magellan, Ferdinand 542 business hours 140 diving & snorkelling 32-3, 358-9, Mendaña y Neyra, Don Alvaro de 363-4, 373, 377, 382, 384-5, 392- children, travel with 140 241, 341, 420, 542 3, 397-8, 401-2, 409, 415 climate 60 Mourelle, Don Francisco Antonio electricity 424 culture 138 451, 463 environment 423 606 French Polynesia continued Haapiti 363, 368 food 322-5 festivals 351, 415, 425 Haatuatua Bay 410 internet resources 325 food & drink 346, 347 Hakahau 412 travel to/from 326 history 419-21 Hakahetau 412 horse riding 48, 79, 366, 373, 409, internet access 426 Hakanai Bay 412 412, 415, 165, 190, 479-80, 507 internet resources 426 Hakaui Valley 408 hot springs itineraries 347 Hanaiapa 415 Nukubolu 121 language 592, 593 Hana Iti Beach 373 Sabeto Hot Springs 65 INDEX money 347, 425, 426 Hanapaaoa 415 Savusavu 117 politics 418-19 Hanatekuua Bay 415 Huahine 371-6, 372 population 347, 422 Hanavave 417 Hufangalupe Archway 442 F-K sailing & yachting 379 Hane 411 Hunga 460 telephone services 347, 426 Hanga Roa 46-54, 48 hunting 167 tours 361, 365, 373, 379, 385, Hat (Eretoka) Island 487 385-6, 398, 402, 415 Hatiheu 408 I travel seasons 346 Hauru Point 363, 366-7, 369, 369 ie toga (mats) 288 travel to/from 427 Havannah Harbour 487 Iipona 414 travel within 347, 385, 428-9 health 589-90 Île aux Canards 150 visas 347, 427 heat exhaustion 590 Île aux Récifs 397 Friendly Islands 464 Heilala festival 20 Île des Pins 181-5, 182 Frigate Passage 87 Heiva festival 20, 351, 425, 559 Îlot de Tibarama 170 Frisbie, Robert Dean 240, 241, 243 Henderson Island 528 Îlot Maître 150 frogs 343 Hibiscus Hwy 120 Îlot Ténia 164 fruit 572 Hideaway Island 477 Indo-Fijian people 10, 137, 138, 10 Funafuti Atoll 530 Hienghène 171-2 insurance 377-8 Futuna 532-3 Highland Paradise Cultural Centre 210 car 144, 195, 294, 315, Hihifo 461 health 589 G hiking 8, 17, 30 internet access 578, see also Galaup, Jean-François de 311 American Samoa 301-2, 309 individual countries Gambier Archipelago 418, 419 Cook Islands 212 internet resources 15, see also gardens, see parks & gardens Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 49, 50 individual countries (Santa Maria) 514 Fiji 131, 132, 133, 140 Island 478 Gauguin, Paul 413, 414, 423, 556 French Polynesia 359, 365, 377, Isabel 337 gay & lesbian travellers 191, 468, 577 393, 408, 415 island nights 220, 441 Geddie, Reverend John 518 New Caledonia 175, 176, 190 itineraries 22-5 George Tupou I, King 463 Samoa 257, 289-90 American Samoa 296 George Tupou V, King 462, 463, 464 Solomon Islands 329, 333, 336 Cook Islands 197, 199 Ghizo Island 333-8 Vanuatu 488, 503, 507, 522 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 45 giant clams 500 Hinduism 20, 21, 65, 139 Fiji 61 Gifu 326 hip hop 139, 188 French Polynesia 347 Gizo 333-8, 334 history 538-51, see also individual New Caledonia 146 golf courses 73, 85, 127, 213, 257, 303, countries Samoa 251 480, 507 hitchhiking 587-8 Solomon Islands 317 grande case 175 Hiva Oa 413-17, 414 Tonga 431 Grande Terre 147-72, 160-1, 168 Hnaenedr wall 173 Vanuatu 473 Great Astrolabe Reef 133 Hohoi 412 Itingetange Island 336 Grey, Aggie 261 Hokatu 411 Guadalcanal 35, 320-7, 320-1 holiday rentals 28 Guadalcanal honeyeater 343 homestays 27 J jellyfish 590 American Samoa 307 John Frum movement 490, 495 Cook Islands 235, 241 H John Frum Village 493 Haamene 382 Fiji 84, 124 Ha’ano 449 New Caledonia 171 Ha’apai Group 445-51, 445 Tonga 451 K Vanuatu 503 Kadavu (Bounty Island) 99 Honiara 320-6, 323, 324 Kadavu Group 32, 132-5, 134 000 Map pages accommodation 321-2 Kanak people 175, 179, 185, 186, 187 000 Photo pages activities 321 Kao 451 607 Kapa 459-60 Lautoka 77-9, 78 marae 569 karting 453 lava fields 278 Arai-Te-Tonga Marae 211 kastom beliefs 559 lava tubes 17, 40, 270, 280, 281, 359 Marae Anini 372 kava 61, 286, 467, 485, 492, 512, 566, Lavena Coastal Walk 132 Marae Arahurahu 358 572-3, 566 Le Maire, Jacob 463, 543 Marae Orongo 221, 229 kayaking 18, 30, 85, 133, 140, 162, Lebongbong 499 Marae Puarakura 233 257, 290, 303, 329, 374, 393, 447, Leleuvia 114-15 Marae Rangimanuka 233 454, 480 Lenakel 494 Marae Takero 235

Kennedy, John F 341 INDEX Leone 300 Marae Taputapuatea 377 Kings Road 96-9 leptospirosis 589 Marae Te Apiripiri 229 kirikiti 273, 287, 559 lesbian travellers, see gay & lesbian Marae Te Poaki O 221 kite surfing 30, 151, 166, 190, 213, K-M travellers Marae Tokangarangi 221 366, 385, 487 Lesiaceva Road 119-20 Marae Vaiahu 392 336, 338 Levuka 112-18, 113 Marae Vairakai 229 Koné 167-8 Leweton Cultural Village 505 Korolevu 82-4 Maré 173-6, 174 Lifou 176-8, 178 Korotogo 82-4 marine parks & reserves lighthouses 150, 274, 357 Koroyanitu National Heritage Park 75 Fagatele Bay National Marine Lilisiana 338 Sanctuary 302 Koumac 169 Lindéralique rocks 171 Namena Marine Reserve 116, 34 Kuata 105 literature 570, see also books Palolo Deep Marine Reserve 255 Kula Eco Park 82 live-aboards 36, 586 Port Resolution 493 Kuto 184 Lomaiviti Group 32, 111-15 Ringi Te Suh Marine Conservation Lomaloma 135 Area 500 L London, Jack 570 & Uri 499-500 La Foa 164-6 London Missionary Society Waitabu Marine Park 131 La Pérouse, Comte de 56, 311, 543 (LMS) 420 Mariner’s Cave 460 La Roche 173-4, 174 Loru Conservation Area 512 Mariner, William 446, 464 Labasa 122-4, 123 Lovoni 111 markets Lafleur, Jacques 187 Loyalty Islands 172-81 Fagatogo Market 299 Lagon Bleu 397 Luganville 505-12, 508 Flea Market (Apia) 254 Lakatoro 499 Huahine 376 Lake Fanteng Conservation Area Jeudis du Centre Ville 148 M 502 Le Marché 148 Maeva 371 lakes Luganville Market 507 514 Aunu’u 302 Maketi Fou 253 Mafana 460 Lake Lanoto’o 266 Marché de Pape’ete 350-1 Magellan, Ferdinand 542 Lake Letas 514 Nadi Handicraft Market 72 Magical Mountain 363 Lake Manaro Lakua 513 Pangai Market 449 Maharepa 368, 367 Lake Manaro Ngoru 513 Port Vila 477 -Ulawa 337 Lake Tagimaucia 126 Punanga Nui Market 205, 207 Mala 459 Lake Te Roto 228 Salelologa 275 Province 338-40, 339 Lake Vui 513 Suva Curio & Handicraft Market 96 malaria 523, 576, 590 Mitiaro 235 Suva Flea Market 96 Malekula 496-501, 497, 498, 500 Rano Kau 55 Suva Municipal Market 89 Malolo 102-3 Vai Lahi 462 Talamahu Market 436, 440 Malololailai 101-2 Lalinda 502 Vao Market 183 Malwepe (Oyster Island) 513 Lalomalava 275-6 328-32, 330 Mamanuca Group 32, 99-105, 100 Lalomanu 268 Marquesas Arts Festival 21, 415, 426 Mana 103-4 Lamap 500, 500 Marquesas Islands 33, 406-17, 406, 9 280 land diving 515 Masefau 301 Manbush Trail 499 340 masi, see bark cloth Mangaia 237-40, 238 languages 15, 591-5 Maskelynes, the 500-1, 500 Manihi 405-6 lanita 559 Massacre Bay 302 Manihiki 240 Lano 276-7 Matacawalevu 110 Manono 273-4 Lapita people 136, 186, 284, 341-2, Matagi 131-2 manta rays 33-5, 107, 133, 385, 393 463, 488, 517, 539 Mataiva 405 Manu’a Islands 308-10 Lau Group 135 Matamanoa 104 Maori people 241 Laucala 131 Matavai Bay 357 maps 141, 192, 291, 314 608 Matei 128-31, 130 Mt Matavanu Crater 278 Namotu 104-5 Matira Point 384 Mt Pioa (Rainmaker Mountain) 301 Namu’a 268 278 Mt Silisili 281 Nananu-i-Ra 98-9, 97 Maui 559 Mt Talau National Park 453 Nanuya Lailai 108-10 Ma’uke 232-4, 233 Mt Taputaora 488 Nanuya Levu (Turtle Island) 110 Maupiti 392-5, 394 Mt Tumutumu 309 Natadola Beach 79-80, see also Mbabanga Island 336-43 Mt Vaea Scenic Reserve 266 marine parks & reserves medical services 589 Mt Yasur 11, 490, 492-4, 494, 11 national parks & reserves INDEX megapodes 328, 338, 462, 466, Munda 332-3 A’opo Conservation Area 281 504, 521 Muri 210 Bouma National Heritage Park 131 Meiaute archaeological site 411 museums & galleries, see also Colo-i-Suva Forest Park 88 M-N Melanesian people 342, 539-40 cultural centres Falealupo Rainforest Preserve 281 Mele Cascades 478 Betikama WWII museum 326 Funafuti Conservation Area 531 Melkin 499 Centre Jacques Brel 414 kauri reserve 496 Mendaña y Neyra, Don Alvaro de 241, Cook Islands Library & Museum Koroyanitu National Heritage 341, 420, 542 Society 204 Park 75 Michener, James 261 Cook Islands Whale & Wildlife Lake Fanteng Conservation Area 502 Millennium Cave 505 Centre 209-10 Loru Conservation Area 512 Million Dollar Point 505 Espace Culturel Paul Gauguin 413 Mont Panié 172 Minerva Reef 443 Falemataaga - The Museum of Mt Talau National Park 453 Miss Galaxy Pageant 20 Samoa 253-4 Mt Vaea Scenic Reserve 266 missionaries 136, 186, 284, 420, 463, Fiji Museum (Suva) 88 National Park of American Samoa 518, 544, 546 Fiji Museum (Levuka) 112 301-2, 308, 310 Mitiaro 234-6, 236 Floating Ark Gallery 459 O Le Pupu-Pu’e National Park 270 moai 9, 47, 54, 543, 568, 9 Jean P Hayden Museum 299 Parc Provincial de la Rivière mobile phones 15, 580 Madd Gallery 254 Bleue 161 Momi Bay 79 Munda WWII museum 332 Parque Nacional Rapa Nui 54 money 15, 578-9, see also individual Musée de la Perle 351 Shabadran 174-5 countries Musée de la Ville de Noumea 148 Sigatoka Sand Dunes 81 Monts Koghis 161 Musée de l’Histoire Maritime 148 Tafua Peninsula Rainforest 104 Musée de Nouvelle-Calédonie 148 Preserve 283 Mo’orea 362-71, 364-5 Musée de Tahiti et des Îles 358 Takitumu Conservation Area 214 Moruroa 424 Museo Antropológico Sebastián Togitogiga Recreation Reserve 270 Moso (Tranquillity Island) 487 Englert 47 Uafato Conservation Area 267 Moso’s Footprint 282 National Museum (Cook Islands) Vatthe Conservation Area 512 Motalava 514 204 Nausori 96 motorcycle travel 587 Pitcairn Island 528 Nausori Highlands 75-6 Motu Auira 392 Robert Louis Stevenson Museum Navala 76 Motu Paeao 392 265-6 Navini 101 Motu Pitihahei 392 Vaipee museum 411 Naviti 107-8 Motu Puarua 403 Vilu Open-Air Museum 327 Neale, Tom 240, 241, 243 Motu Tiahura 370 music 18, 567, 562, 565 Neiafu 452-8, 456 Motu Tiapaa 392 Fiji 139 Nekowiar, the 492 Motu Tuanai 392 French Polynesia 422 netball 558 New Caledonia 188 Mounu 460 New Caledonia 10, 40, 145-95, 147, Mourelle, Don Francisco Antonio Samoa 287 11, 29 451, 463 Tonga 466 accommodation 26, 28, 145, 171, Mt Aorai 359 Vanuatu 520 189-90 Mt Austen 326 Mystery Island 496 arts 188 Mt Bau 333 books 188 Mt Benbow 501 N business hours 190-1 Mt Garet 514 Nacula 108, 109 climate 145 Mt Laimbele 499 Nadi 64-73, 70, 72, 73, 76 culture 187-8 Mt Lombenben 513 naghol (land diving) 515 diving & snorkelling 33, 150, 166, Mt Marum 501 171, 176, 179, 190 nakamal 489, 499, 503, 519 embassies & consulates 191 nambas 490, 496 emergencies 146 Namena Marine Reserve 116, 34 000 Map pages environment 188-9 Namenalala 122 000 Photo pages festivals 191 Namosi Highlands 87 609 food & drink 145, 146, 191 Ofu & Olosega 308-9, 309 philately 462 history 186-7 Oholei Beach & Hina Cave Feast & Pic N’ga 184 holidays 192 Show 441 pigs 232, 441, 492, 519 internet access 191 Omoa 417 pirogues 181 internet resources 192 Ono 134 Pitcairn Island 527-9 itineraries 146 opening hours 576, see Place des Cocotiers 148 language 592 also individual countries Place Vaiete 351 money 146, 190, 191 Opunohu Bay 363 planning 14-15, 26-30 politics 185-6 Opunohu Valley 366 budgeting 14 INDEX population 146, 187 organic farms 403 calendar of events 19-21 safe travel 191 Orongo ceremonial village 55 children, travel with 37 sailing & yachting 190, 193 Ouvéa 178-81, 180 insurance 577-8 N-R telephone services 146, 192 Ovalau (Fiji) 111-14 internet resources 15 tours 151-2, 163, 175, 176, 195 ’Ovalau (Tonga) 460 itineraries 22-5 travel seasons 145 Oyster Island (Malwepe) 513 South Pacific basics 14-15 travel to/from 146, 192-3 South Pacific countries 39-41 travel within 193-5 P travel seasons 14, 30 35 Pacific Games 21 Poindimié 170-1 newspapers Pacific Harbour 84-6, 86 Pointe Vénus 357 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 58 Pae Pae Piki Vehine 407 Polipetagever 501 Cook Islands 246 Paeke 408 politics 536-7, see also individual Samoa 291 Pago Pago 13, 297-9, 303-4, 304, 13 countries Solomon Islands 344 Palmerston 227-8 Pomare dynasty 420, 421 Tonga 469 Palolo Deep Marine Reserve 255 Pont de Mouli 179 New Zealand War Cemetery 166 palolo worms 271 population 536, see also individual countries Nguna 488-9 Paopao Valley 366 Port Boisé 162 nickel mining 189 Pape’ete 350-7, 356 Port Resolution 493 Niua Group 460-2 Papeiha 241 Port Vatu 502 Niuafo’ou 461-2 Papuan people 539 Port Vila 476-86, 478, 484 Niuatoputapu 461 parasailing 478 post 579 Niue 526-7 Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue 161 postage stamps 462 nonos (flies) 411 parks & gardens Pouébo 172 notable buildings Bain de Vaima & Vaipahi Spring Great Council of Chiefs’ meeting Gardens 358 Prony 162 hall 125 ’Ene’io Botanical Garden 458-9 public holidays 579-80, see also individual countries Maison du Jouir 413 Faga’alu Park 303 Pukapuka 241 Solomon Islands 316 Garden of the Sleeping Giant 65 Pulemelei Mound 282 Levuka 112 Jardins Botaniques 358 Noumea 148-59, 149, 152, 154, Jardins de Paofai 351 11, 29 Moorea Tropical Garden 363 Q accommodation 154-6 Parc Bougainville 351 Qamea 132 discount pass 150 sculpture garden 164 Qilaqila (Bay of Islands) 135 drinking 157-8 Solomons Peace Memorial Park quad biking 409 entertainment 158 326 Qualito (Castaway Island) 103 food 156-7 Thurston Gardens 88 Queen Pomare IV 421 shopping 158 Parque Nacional Rapa Nui 54-6 Queen Salote 463-4 travel to/from 159 Patio 382 Quirós, Pedro Fernández de 241, travel within 159 pearl farms 129, 371, 382, 397, 405 517, 543 Nuapapu 460 Pele 488-9 nuclear testing 424, 550-1, 553-4 Península Poike 55 R Nuku Hiva 407-11, 408 Penrhyn 240-1 Rabuka, Sitiveni 137 Nuku’alofa 434-41, 436-7 Pentecost 515-17, 516 Rah 514 Nukubolu 121 people, see individual peoples Ra’iatea 377-84, 378 Nukunamo 449 petroglyphs 521 Rainmaker Mountain (Mt Pioa) 301 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 50, 55, 56 Raivavae 418 O French Polynesia 384, 408, 411, Rakahanga 240 414, 415, 417 O Le Pupu-Pu’e National Park 270 Rakiraki 96-8, 97 Vanuatu 514 ’Ofu 460 RAMSI 340-1, 341-2 610 Rangimotia 239 business hours 265, 290 accommodation 27, 28, 343 Rangiroa 397-401, 398 children, travel with 290 activities 343 Rano Kau 55 climate 250 arts 342 Ranon 502 culture 285-7 business hours 343 Ransuck Cultural Village 505 diving & snorkelling 33-5, 257, climate 316 Ranvetlam 502 289, 290 culture 342 Rapa Nui, see Easter Island embassies & consulates 290-1 diving & snorkelling 13, 35, 321, Rarotonga 199-221, 200-1 emergencies 251 327-8, 328-32, 343 INDEX accommodation 205, 214-16 environment 288 electricity 344 entertainment 220 festivals 291 emergencies 317 food & drink 205-7, 216-19, 219 food & drink 250, 251, 291 environment 342-3 R-S history 199 history 284-5 food & drink 344 shopping 207-8, 220 internet access 281, 291 holidays 344 travel to/from 199 internet resources 291 internet resources 317, 325, 344 travel within 199-200 itineraries 251 language 593 red shining parrot 444, 466 language 593 money 317, 343, 344 reggae 139, 188 money 251, 289, 291 politics 340-1 Regional Assistance Mission to politics 284 telephone services 317, 344 Solomon Islands, see RAMSI population 251, 287 tours 329, 332 religion 537, 544, 559-60, 562 sailing & yachting 293 travel seasons 316 remote islands 16, 240-1, 514 telephone services 291 travel to/from 345 Rennell 337 tours 255-6 travel within 345 Ringi Te Suh Marine Conservation travel seasons 250 visas 317, 344 Area 500 travel to/from 251, 292-3 women travellers 344-5 Robinson Crusoe Island 79 travel within 293-4 Somosomo 125-8 Roggeveen, Jacob 56, 284, 311, 543 visas 292 Sonaisali Island 74 Rom dances 501, 503 Sanasom 514 Sopoanga, Saufatu 554 Rotoava 401 sand drawings 521 South Sea Island 99 Rotuma 135-6 sandalwood 547 spas 30, 255 Rousseau, Jean-Jacques 556 Santo 504-14, 506, 511 Speight, George 137, 548 rugby 558 Sapapali’i 275-6 sports 188, 287, 558-9 Rurutu 418 Sarraméa 165 stamp collecting 462 Satoalepai Turtle Sanctuary 279 staph infections 590 S Savai’i’ 274-84, 276-7 star mounds 273, 300 Sabeto Hot Springs 65 Savo 328 statues & monuments safe travel 576 Savusavu 115-22, 119 Kanak memorial 179 bites & stings 576, 590 Sawa-i-Lau 110 Mwâ Ka 148 drinking water 590 scenic flights 479 Port au Prince Massacre Monument 447-8 ferries 471 Schouten, Willem 463, 543 Shirley Baker Monument 447 health 589-90 sea cucumbers, see bêche-de-mer Smiling Tiki 413 New Caledonia 191 sea kayaking 18, 30, 133, 140, 393 Statue de St Maurice 183 Tonga 468 sea snakes 590 Tiki Maki Taua Pepe 414 Sa’ilele 301 Sepo Island 335-6 Tiki Moe One 415 sailing 23, 30, 586, 587, see also sharks 105, 179 individual countries shipwrecks, see wrecks Tiki Takaii 414 Saleapaga 269 337 Wasavula Ceremonial Site 122 Sale’aula 279 siapo, see bark cloth Stevenson, Robert Louis 265-6, 268, 287 Salelologa 275-8 Sigatoka 81-2 string bands 520-1 Samoa 12, 40, 250-94, 252, 12, Island 338 sunburn 590 562-3, 564 Site de Netcha 161 Sunday activities 28 accommodation 27, 28, 250, 288-9 Siviri 487 Samoa 278 activities 289-90 Skull Island 333 Tonga 439, 440 arts 287-8 snorkelling 16, 30, 47, 29, see also books 261, 287, 556 individual countries Sunset Strip 82-4, 83 surfing 13, 30, 48, 102, 140, 190, Society Islands 32, 350, 380 212-13, 257, 283, 290, 333, 343, Sola 514 359, 366, 374, 459, 480, 13 000 Map pages Solomon Islands 41, 316-45, 318-19, Survivor 489, 569 000 Photo pages 3, 9, 13, 565 sustainable travel 45 611 Suva 88-96, 90-1, 93, 94 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 58 Royal Tombs (Tongatapu) 441 Suwarrow 241 Fiji 61, 141 Royal Tombs (’Uiha) 450 Swallows’ Cave 459-60 French Polynesia 347, 426 Udreudre’s Tomb 97 swiftlets 228, 244, 270, 279, 444, New Caledonia 146, 192 Virgin’s Grave 278 459-60 Samoa 291 Tom Hanks Island 104 Solomon islands 317, 344 Tonga 41, 430-71, 432, 2-3, 8, 29 T Tonga 431, 468 accommodation 27, 28, 430, Ta’ahiamanu (Mareto) Beach 363 Vanuatu 473, 523 451, 467 INDEX Taaoa 414 Temae 362 arts 465-6 Tadine 173 Temaru, Oscar 419 books 446 Tafahi 461 Temotu 337 business hours 467 S-T Tafua Peninsula Rainforest Preserve temples children, travel with 467 283 Sri Krishna Kaliya Temple 77 climate 430 Tagaloa (Tangaroa) 311 Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami culture 464 Taha’a 376, 382-4, 378 Temple 65, 10 diving & snorkelling 36, 444, 453 Tahiti 350-62, 358, 352-3, 13 Tetahuna archaeological site 412 electricity 468 accommodation 351-4, 359-60, 362 Tetamanu 401 embassies & consulates 467-8 activities 358-9 335 emergencies 468 entertainment 355-6 Teuila Festival 291 environment 466 food 354-5, 360, 362 Tevaitoa 377 festivals 455 shopping 357 Thurston Gardens 88 food & drink 430, 467, 468 travel to/from 350 Tikehau 403-4 history 463-4 travel within 350 tikis 423, see also statues & holidays 468 monuments Tahiti Iti 360-77 internet access 468 time zones 580 Tahuata 417, 414 itineraries 431 American Samoa 314 Tai (Beachcomber Island) 99-100 language 593 Cook Islands 247 Taiohae 407-8, 409 money 431, 467, 468 Fiji 141 Takara 487 politics 462 French Polynesia 427 Talamahu Market 436, 440 population 431, 464 New Caledonia 192 Talihau village 459 religion 464-5 Samoa 292 Tamarua 237 safe travel 468 Tonga 469 tamtam 496, 501, 521 sailing & yachting 453, 469 Vanuatu 523 Tanagaloa DC3 aeroplane 470 telephone services 431, 468 Tin Can Island 462 tours 437-8, 447, 454-5 Tanna 490-5, 491 tipping 579 travel seasons 430 tapa, see bark cloth Tiputa 397 travel to/from 431, 469 Tapati Rapa Nui 19, 51 Tjibaou Cultural Centre 149-50 travel within 469-70 Tapuamu 382 Tjibaou, Jean-Marie 171, 179, 187 visas 431, 469 Taravao 358 To Sua Ocean Trench 267 taro 571 Tongatapu 433-43, 434-5 Toak 502, 503 Tasman, Abel 442, 463, 543 514-15 Tofua 451 tattoos 10, 220, 243, 288, 307, 423, tourist information 580-1 Togitogiga Recreation Reserve 270 568, 10 tours 30, 585, 588, see Tohua Koueva 407 also individual countries, Ta’u 309-11, 310 Tohua Mauia 412 walking tours Taufa’ahau Tupou IV, King 464 Tohua Upeke 414 Tranquillity Island (Moso) 487 Tavarua 104-5 Toka Ceremony 492 travel seasons 15, see also individual Taveuni 32, 124-32 Tokelau 529-30 countries Tavewa 108, 109 Tokoriki 104 travel to/from the South Pacific Tavuni Hill Fort 81 582-5 tombs Te Ano 532 travel within the South Pacific 585-8 Gauguin’s tomb 414 Te Pare Fort 235 travellers cheques 579 Grave of 99 Stones 273 Te Pari Cliffs 361 Treasure Island (Elevuka) 100 Grave of Afutiti 273 Te Rua Manga 211 tree houses 163, 493 Hulu’ipaongo Tomb 448 Teahupoo 361 trekking, see hiking Olovehi Tomb 448 Teavaro 362 tsunamis 286, 311 Pouébo 172 Tehueto petroglyphs 414 Tuamotu Islands 33, 395-406, Robert Louis Stevenson’s tomb 396 telephone services 580 266 276-7 American Samoa 296, 314 Royal Tombs (Nuku’alofa) 435 Tubuai 418 Cook Islands 197, 247 Tuherahera 403 612 35 internet resources 523 waterfalls tumunus (bush beer clubs) 229 itineraries 473 Afu-A-Au Falls 283 Tupou VI, King 463 language 591 Big Water waterfall 514 Turipaoa 405 money 473, 522, 523 Cascade de Tao 172 Turtle Island (Nanuya Levu) 110 politics 517 Cascade de Wadiana 162 turtles 279, 423, 466, 487, 488, 500 population 473, 520 Chutes de la Madeleine 162 Tutuila 297-308, 298 sailing & yachting 514, 523 Faarumai Waterfalls 358 530-1, 554 telephone services 473, 523 Hakaui Valley 408 INDEX tours 480, 503, 507 Holupuru Falls 333 travel seasons 472 Inwan Leleghei Waterfall 496 U travel to/from 524 Kwaibala Waterfall 338

T-W ’Ua Huka 411-12 travel within 473, 524-5 Mataniko Falls 326-7 ’Ua Pou 412-13, 413 visas 473, 524 Mele Cascades 478 Uafato Conservation Area 267 Vanuatu Cultural Centre 476-7 Nu’uuli Falls 299-300 Uciwai Landing 74-5 Vao 183-4 Papapapai-tai Falls 267 ’Uiha 450-1 Vatthe Conservation Area 512 Papase’ea Sliding Rocks 266 Ului Nakauka 106 Vava’u Group 451-60, 454-5 Sasara Falls 514 undersea walks 385 vegetarian travellers 574 Siri Waterfall 514 Uoleva 450 vineyards 399 Sopo’aga Falls 268 ’Upolo 252-74, 254-5, 266, 12 visas 15, 581, see also individual Tavoro Waterfalls 131 Uripiv & Uri 499-500 countries Tenaru Waterfall 327 US Millennium Challenge 517 Viseisei 75 Waterfall Bay 514 Uturoa 377 Viti Levu 32, 64-99, 66-7, 76 Waterfall Falls 515 Vitian people 136 Wigmore’s Waterfall 210 V volcanoes 17 Waya 106-7 vaccinations 589 Fonuafo’ou 450 Wayalailai (Wayasewa) 105-6 Vai Lahi 462 Kao 451 weather 19-21, see also individual Vaiare 363 Mt Benbow 501 countries Vaileka 96-8 Mt Garet 514 weaving 521 Vaipee 411 Mt Lombenben 513 weddings 215 Vaitape 384 Mt Marum 501 weights & measures vanilla farms 176, 382 Mt Matavanu Crater 278 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 58 Vanua Balavu 135 Mt Yasur 11, 490, 492-3, 11 Cook Islands 246 514 Niuafo’ou 461-2 French Polynesia 424 Vanua Levu 115-24, 116-17 Savo 328 Solomon Islands 344 Vanuatu 41, 472-525, 474-5, 7, 11, Tafahi 461 Wendt, Albert 287 563, 564-5 Tofua 451 Western Province (Solomon Islands) accommodation 27, 28, 472, volunteering 212, 459, 581 328-38, 329 503, 522 Vomo 101 whales 8, 30, 173, 189, 190, 214, 313, arts 520-1 358-9, 366, 393 409-10, 423, 444, Vuda Point 75 books 518, 519 447, 452, 454, 461, 466, 8 Vuna 128 business hours 523 whaling 420, 553 children, travel with 481, 523 White Sands Beach 486 climate 472 W White Sunday 291 culture 519 Wairiki Catholic Mission 125 wildlife sanctuaries diving & snorkelling 36, 478-9, 487, Waitabu Marine Park 131 Kula Eco Park 82 488, 499-500, 507, 509, 510, 522 Waiyevo 125 Satoalepai Turtle Sanctuary 279 embassies & consulates 523 wake boarding 30 wildlife watching 30, see also emergencies 473 walking, see hiking birdwatching environment 521 walking tours Williams, Reverend John 237, 241, 518 festivals 503, 519 Apia 263, 263 windsurfing 190 food & drink 472, 523 Suva 93, 93 women, roles in society 558 history 517-19 underwater 385 women travellers 344-5, 427 holidays 523 Wallis & Futuna 532-4 working 581 internet access 523 Wallis, Samuel 420, 543 World War II 17, 421, 510, 518, 341-2 Wasavula Ceremonial Site 122 World War II sites 549 water slides (natural) French Polynesia 384 000 Map pages Papase’ea Sliding Rocks 266 Japanese Observation Point 326 000 Photo pages Waitavala Water Slide 126 New Zealand War Cemetery 166 613 Solomon Islands 13, 35, 338, 13 Y Z Vanuatu 17, 487, 505 yachting, see individual countries, ziplining 85 wrecks 31-6, 34 sailing zoos Alexander, the 222 Yanuca 80 Kula Eco Park 82 MV Henry Bonneaud 507 Yanuca island 88 Parc Zoologique et Forestier 148-9 Solomon Islands 35, 321 Yaqeta 110 zorbing 480 SS Maitai 211 yaqona, see kava SS President Coolidge 36, 507, Yasawa Group 105-10, 106 509, 510 yaws 590 INDEX Te Kou Maru 233 Yeiwene, Yeiwene 179, 187 ’Upolu 257 W-Z 614

These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want: Look out for Sights Tours Drinking 1 T 6 these icons: r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment Our author’s o recommendation Activities Sleeping Shopping 2 4 7 No payment F required C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/ Transport A green or S sustainable option These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry sustainability – for example by p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro supporting local communities n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway and producers, operating in an a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly j Tram environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly d Train projects.

Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights Entertainment Routes Boundaries Beach Entertainment Tollway International Buddhist Freeway State/Province Shopping Castle Primary Disputed Shopping Christian Secondary Regional/Suburb Hindu Information Tertiary Marine Park Islamic Bank Lane Cliff Jewish Embassy/ Unsealed Road Wall Monument Consulate Plaza/Mall Hydrography Museum/Gallery Hospital/Medical Steps River, Creek Ruin Internet Tunnel Intermittent River Winery/Vineyard Police Pedestrian Swamp/Mangrove Zoo Post Office Overpass Reef Other Sight Telephone Walking Tour Canal Toilet Walking Tour Activities, Courses Water Tourist Information Detour & Tours Dry/Salt/ Other Information Path Diving/Snorkelling Intermittent Lake Canoeing/Kayaking Transport Geographic Glacier Skiing Airport Hut/Shelter Areas Surfing Border Crossing Lighthouse Beach/Desert Swimming/Pool Bus Lookout Walking Cable Car/ Mountain/Volcano Cemetery Windsurfing Funicular Oasis (Christian) Other Activity/ Cycling Park Cemetery (Other) Course/Tour Ferry Pass Park/Forest Sleeping Metro Picnic Area Sleeping Monorail Waterfall Sportsground Camping Parking Population Sight (Building) Petrol Station Eating Capital (National) Taxi Top Sight Eating Capital Train/Railway (Building) (State/Province) Drinking Tram City/Large Town Drinking Other Transport Town/Village Cafe 596

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Jéanne Humphreys on ’Atiu, and Tangata and Teata Ateriano on Ma’uke. On tiny Mi- Many thanks to the travellers who tiaro, thanks to Papa Neke – and a big hug used the last edition and wrote to us to Aunty Mii – and on Aitutaki, thank you to with helpful hints, useful advice and Tutai Clark. Back in Auckland, Kelly Hansen interesting anecdotes: and Michal McKay were both very helpful, Patricia Aros, Victor Blum, Richard and love and thanks to Carol for holding the Bowerbank, Jessica Carpelan, Duval Claude, fort at Casa Loma. Efrat Elron, Kip Freytag, James Gray, Reinhard Hannak, James Hunter, Ute Keck, Jean-Bernard Carillet Jennifer McKay, Rosie Randall, Rainer Roth Heaps of thanks to the South Pacific team at and Jason Thompson. LP, especially Maryanne and Errol, for their trust and support, and to the editorial and cartography teams. A heartfelt mauruuru roa AUTHOR THANKS to coordinating author Celeste, with whom Celeste Brash I share the same passion for that trippy Most thanks to my kids, Jasmine and Tevai, fenua; she was utterly helpful and patient and to my husband Josh for putting up with throughout the process. In French Polynesia, my absences. In Fiji, vinaka to Sharon and a special mention goes to my second family, Scott, Colin and Janine, Harry my taxi driver, the Peirsegaeles in Mahina – thanks Yan, Vai, Ursula (Mila), Tuvununu, Peiro and Vuli, Rich- Sean, Majo, Hubert for having open all doors ard at Matava, Richard at Mai Dive, Christian, and the infectious aroha (despite a broken Seru and Sala, my new Fijian family, and car). A big thanks also to all people who Serai. In Samoa, thanks to the Martel family, helped out and made this trip so enlighten- Christina Gale, Gabor and Fiona and Ocean. ing, including Alain Buzenet (next time we’ll In American Samoa, huge thanks to John and be off to the motu!), Katou, Verly, Heikura, Luao Wasko, my Ta’u host Lesi’i and Sia Figiel. Moearii, Pam, Reata, Tepupu, Lucile, Céline, Lionel and Pascale, among others. And how Brett Atkinson could I forget my daughter Eva and Christine, Meitaki ma’ata to all the friendly Cook who shared some of my Polynesian adven- Islanders I met on my travels, especially tures and give direction to my otherwise Papatua Papatua in Rarotonga, Marshall and roving life? 597 Jayne D’Arcy unexpectedly long 4WD trip with me (lucky Thanks to wonderful, patient Sharik Billington – we had the bananas). what a honeymoon! Thanks also to young Craig McLachlan Miles, who swam, snorkelled and harassed hermit crabs on some 30 islands. In A huge ’aupito to all those who helped Vanuatu, thanks Tony Houlahan, Olivia me out in Tonga this time around. Special Johnson, Jessica Sherry, Werry Narua, mention to Bruno in Vava’u – I hope all your Carolyn Donald, Karen Henry, Alice and piglets are doing well. Cheers to Sandra at the TVB, Luisa and Tai, Craig, and to my Ugo, Charlotte Connell, Mayumi Green, BEHIND THE SCENES Bev Anti, Allan Power, Howard Iseli, Pascal good mate Kava. Double-special thanks to Gavotto, and Jack and Jeanne at Travellers my exceptionally beautiful wife, Yuriko, for Budget Motel (an oasis). In New Caledonia, putting up with the mess. thanks to Nathalie Mermoud from the Offi ce de Tourism, Christéle and Arnaud, tree- ACKNOWLEDGMENTS climbing Alan, Willy from Ouvéa and the Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, folks at Auberge de Jeunesse. Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Virginia Jealous World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System Vinaka vakalevu to Hugh, Cristelle and Tahi Sciences, 11, 1633–44. for my Suva home away from home, Mafa Cover photograph: The view from a hut on for language skills and laughs, Sashi for my Lifou’s Luengoni beach in the Loyalty Islands, Lautoka home away from home, Elenoa New Caledonia/Yves Talensac/Photo- from SSC and the boat crews who every day nonstop/Photolibrary treated me like a long-lost friend, Sushil from Many of the images in this guide are available Rosie’s, the GVI crew on Nacula, Bulou for for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: the gift of bananas and Tui who shared an www.lonelyplanetimages.com.

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