602 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ancestor worship 559 ATMs 578 animals 212, see also birds atomic testing 424, 550-1, 553-4 bêche-de-mer 466, 546-7 Auki 338-9, 340 blue worms 271 Aunu’u 302 deer 167 Austral Islands 417-18, 419 dogs 212, 468, 521 Avarua 203-9, 206-7 dolphins 30, 96, 164, 288, 289, Avarua Landing 237-8 313, 328, 358, 366, 393, 423, Avatoru 397 466, 527 dugongs 489 flying foxes 189, 244, 313, 442, 521 B frogs 343 Bahá’í House of Worship 266 giant clams 500 Baie des Citrons 150 A pigs 232, 441, 492, 519 Baie d’Oro 185 abseiling 162, 478 turtles 279, 423, 466, 487, 488, Bainimarama, Commodore Frank 136, accommodation 26-8, 482, see 500 137-8, 549, 551 also individual locations whales 8, 30, 173, 189, 190, 214, Baker, Reverend Shirley 447, 463 activities 28-30, see also individual 313, 358-9, 366, 393, 409-10, bargaining 578 activities, individual countries 423, 444, 447, 452, 454, 461, bark cloth 139, 288, 312, 466, 564, Ahe 405 466, 8 567-8, 564 ahu 54 Aniwa 496 Bay of Islands (Qilaqila) 135 air travel 14, 470, 582-4, 585-6 Anse Vata 150 Bay of Virgins 417 Aitutaki 221-7, 222 A’opo Conservation Area 281 Beachcomber Island (Tai) 99-100 alcohol 573-4 Apia 253-65, 258-9, 266 beaches 16 Alofaaga Blowholes 284 Apolima 274 Aganoa Beach 283 Alofi 532-3 Aquarium des Lagons 150 Alega Beach 302 Ambae 513-14, 513 Aquarium Naturelle 173 Aleipata 267 Ambrym 501-4, 502 Arahoho Blowhole 357 Anakena Beach 50, 55 Amédée Islet 150 Aranui, the 407 ’Ano 459 American Samoa 13, 40, 295-315, archaeological sites 17, 540 Anse Vata 150 297, 13 American Samoa 309 Aop Beach 499 accommodation 295, 307, 313 Cook Islands 211, 229, 233, 235 Avaio Beach 302 arts 312 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 9, 47, 50, Baie des Citrons 150 business hours 313 54, 55, 56, 9 Baie d’Oro 185 climate 295 Fiji 81, 121, 122 Champagne Beach 512 culture 312 French Polynesia 358, 361, 371, Eton Beach 487 emergencies 296 392, 407, 408, 411, 412, 413, 414 ’Eua’iki 460 embassies & consulates 313 New Caledonia 173 Foe’ata 460 environment 312-13 Samoa 273, 281, 282 Ha’atafu Beach Reserve 442 festivals 313 Tonga 441, 442, 448 Hakanai Bay 412 food & drink 295, 296, 313 Tahiti 358 Hana Iti Beach 373 history 311-12 Vanuatu 488 Hanatekuua Bay 415 internet resources 314 architecture 12, 112, 287, 569 Hinakauea 459 itineraries 296 area codes 580 Houmale’eia Beach 447 money 296, 313, 314 Armarvon Islands 337 Ireupuow 493 population 296, 312 ’Arorangi 210 La Cité de Corail 371 sailing & yachting 315 arts 564, 567-70 Lagon Bleu (Motu Tehatea) 401 snorkelling 302 American Samoa 312 Les Sables Roses 401, 403 telephone services 296, 314 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 53, 57 Lonnoc Beach 512 tours 303 Cook Islands 243 Luengoni Beach 176 travel seasons 295 Fiji 139 Mahamat beach 172 travel to/from 296, 314-15 French Polynesia 10, 415, 422-3, 10 Manihina 411 travel within 315 New Caledonia 188 Maré 173 visas 296, 314 Samoa 287-8 Marmara Beach 327 Anaho 410 Solomon Islands 342 Matira Beach 384 Tonga 465-6 Ma’uke 232-3 Vanuatu 520-1 Muri 210 000 Map pages Arutanga 221-2 Natadola Beach 79-80 000 Photo pages ’Atiu 12, 228-32, 230, 12 Nguna 488 603 Ofu Beach 308 books 536, 569 Dwarf’s Cave 280 Oholei Beach 441 birdwatching 243 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 54 O’otu Beach 222 children, travel with 290 Falealupo Peninsula 282 Oravaru Beach 228 Cook Islands 241, 243 Feles Cave 487 Ovahe 55 Fiji 139 Grotte de Kong Houloup 179 Painapo Beach 363 New Caledonia 188 Grotte de la Reine Hortense 185 Palagi Beach 301 Samoa 261, 287, 556 Grotte de la Troisième 184 Peng 176 tattoos 568 Grotte les Joyaux de Luengoni Plage du PK9 401 Tonga 446 176 INDEX Plage Publique (Rangiroa) 397 Vanuatu 518, 519 Hole of the Moon 514 Playa Pea 47 Bora Bora 384-92, 386-7, 6-7 Le Bone de la Léproserie 173 B-C Pointe Vénus 357 Bougainville, Louis-Antoine de 311, Malangauliuli 514 Port Boisé 162 420, 517, 543 Mangaia 237 Sa’ilele 301 Boullaire, Jacques 423 Maraa Grotto 358 Saleapaga 269 Boulouparis 164 Mariner’s Cave 460 Salelologa 275 Bouma National Heritage Park 131 Ma’uke 232 St Lawrence Beach 487 Bounty Island (Kadavu) 99 Millennium Cave 505 Ta’ahiamanu (Mareto) Beach 363 Bounty, the 108, 420, 451, 517, 527, Mitiaro 235 Takauroa Beach 228 529 Naihehe Cave 81 Taunganui Harbour 228 Bourail 166-7 Pe’ape’a Cave 270, 279 Taungaroro 228 breadfruit 571 Piula Cave Pool 268 Teavaro Beach 362 budget Riba Cave 338 Temae Beach 362 American Samoa 296 Swallows’ Cave 459-60 Tereia Point 392 Cook Islands 197 Trou Bleu d’Anawa 179 Tikehau 403 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 45 Trou de Bone 173 Tuherahera 403 Fiji 61 Vaipoiri Cave 361 Tumai 228 French Polynesia 347 Valeva Cave 487 Turtle Beach 327 New Caledonia 146 Yalo Cavern 498 ’Upolu 270 Samoa 251 caving 244 Vaiala Beach 253 Solomon Islands 317 cell phones 15, 580 Wailoaloa Beach 68 Tonga 431 cemeteries, see also tombs White Sands Beach 486 Vanuatu 473 Calvaire Cemetery 414 bêche-de-mer 466, 546-7 buildings, see notable buildings New Zealand War Cemetery 166 beer 197, 229, 251, 347, 566, 573, 574 Bula Festival 20 Shirley Baker Monument & Bellona 337 bus travel 587 European Cemetery 447 Beqa 87-8 business hours 576, see Tetamanu graveyard 401 also individual countries Beqa Lagoon 85, 87 Central Province (Solomon Islands) 327-8 bicycle travel, see cycling Cession Site 112 birds 423, 502 C Chanel, St Pierre Louis Marie 546 cagou 149, 161, 162, 189 cagou 149, 161, 162, 189 Chaudhry, Mahendra 137 Guadalcanal honeyeater 343 camping 27 children, travel with 37-8 megapodes 328, 338, 462, 466, canned meats 467, 572 books 290 504, 521 cannibal sites 498 Cook Islands 213, 245 red shining parrot 444, 466 cannibalism 122, 496, 559 Fiji 140 swiftlets 228, 244, 270, 279, 444, canoes 525, 559 French Polynesia 425 459-60 canyoning 359 New Caledonia 151, 191 birdwatching 30, 122, 133, 214, Cape Taputapu 301 243, 229 Samoa 290 Caqalai 114 blackbirding 136, 518, 547-8 Tonga 467 car travel 15, 587-8 Bligh, Captain William 108, 451, Vanuatu 481, 523 cargo cults 490, 493, 518 517, 529 Choiseul 337 Carteret, Philip 341-2 blowholes 128, 284, 357 Christian, Fletcher 451, 543 carvings 520 blue holes 495, 512 Christianity 138, 286, 464-5, 544, Castaway Island (Qualito) 103 Blue Lagoon 108 546, 559-60 cathedrals, see churches & blue worms 271 churches & cathedrals cathedrals boat travel 15, 389, 585, 586-7 Cathédrale Notre-Dame 351 caves 17 boating, see sailing Cathédrale St Joseph 148 ’Anahulu Cave 442 Boenechea, Don Domingo de 420 Catholic church (Vao) 183 ’Atiu 12, 228, 12 Bon Année 519 Centenary Chapel 435 604 churches & cathedrals continued emergencies 197 Davis, Sir Tom 243 Chapelle Notre Dame de Lourdes embassies & consulates 245 DC3 aeroplane 470 176 environment 243 decompression chambers 158, 486 CICC (Arutanga) 221 festivals 245 deer 167 Cook Islands Christian Church food & drink 196, 197, 245 Denarau Island 73-4, 74 (Avarua) 204 history 241-2 dengue fever 589 Cook Islands Christian Church holidays 247 Des Voeux Peak 126 (Mitiaro) 235 internet access 246 disabilities, travellers with 581 INDEX INDEX Divided Church 234 internet resources 246 Disappearing Island 450 Église de la Sainte Famille 363 itineraries 197, 199 discount cards 428 Église Ste Jeanne d’Arc 169 language 197, 592 dive centres 36 C-E Holy Family Cathedral 300 money 197, 244, 245, 246-7 dive sites 16, 13 see also wrecks Iglesia Hanga Roa 47 population 242 Beqa Lagoon 85, 87 Ivirua CICC 237 sailing & yachting 212-13, 248 Bligh Water 32 lava-ruined churches 278 telephone services 197, 247 Bonegi 328 LMS Church 278 tours 205, 213-14, 223-4, 229-30, Dreamhouse 116 Matavera CICC 211 233-4, 239, 249 Dungeons & Dragons 116 Mormon Temple 254 travel seasons 196 Florida (Nggela) Islands 327-8 Mulivai Catholic Cathedral 254 travel to/from 197, 247-8 Garuae Pass 401 Navoka Methodist Church 112 travel within 248-9 Giant Clam Garden 488 Notre-Dame Cathedral of the visas 197 Marquesas Islands 408 Gizo 333 Cook Islands Maori 592 Oneroa CICC 237 Great Astrolabe Reef 133 Cook’s Bay 362, 367 Pierre Chanel Church 533 Great White Wall 124 Coolidge, the 36, 507, 509, 510 Pouébo 172 Nasonisoni Passage 116 copra 135 Protestant Temple 363 Paul’s Rock 478 Copra Shed Marina 118 St Joseph’s Cathedral 453 Rainbow Reef 124 Coral Coast 79-88 Tamarua CICC 237 Tonga 444 Coral Coast Scenic Railway 80 Temple de Paofai 351 diving 9, 31-6, see also individual coral ear 590 countries Wairiki Catholic Mission 125 coral gardens 110 Diwali 21 ciguatera 590 credit cards 578 dogs 212, 468, 521 cinema, see films cricket 273, 559 Dog’s Head, the 498-9 climate 19-21, see also individual countries Cross-Island Track 211 dolphins 30, 96, 164, 288, 289, 313, 328, 358, 366, 393, 423, 466, 527 climate change 243, 537, 554, 583 cruise ships 193, 529 Mendaña y Neyra, Don Alvaro de 241, coconut 571-2 cultural centres, see also museums & galleries 341, 420, 542 coffee 228-9, 478 Arts Village 84 drinking water 590 concrete parks 441 Centre Culturel Goa Ma Bwarhat dugongs 489 cone shells 590 171 d’Urville, Dumont 543 consulates 577, see also individual Centre Culturel Yeiwene Yeiwene countries 173-4 Cook, Captain James 186, 237, 241, Cultural Centre (Lakatoro) 499 E 357, 420, 441, 464, 517, 543, 545 earth ovens 573 Ekasup Cultural Village 478 Cook Islands 12, 40, 196-249, 198, earthquakes 286, 311, 550 Highland Paradise Cultural Centre 12, 17, 562 210 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 39, 44-59, accommodation 26, 27, 196, 235, 46, 9 Leweton Cultural Village 505 241, 244 accommodation 26, 27, 44, 50-2, Ransuck Cultural Village 505 arts 243 57-8 Tjibaou Cultural Centre 149-50 books 241, 243 arts 53, 57 Vanuatu Cultural