The Lakeland

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

The Lakeland

Includes  Why Go? Savonlinna...... 145 Most of Finland could be dubbed lakeland, but around here Punkaharju . . . . . 150 it seems there’s more water than terra firma. And what wa- Seal Lakes...... 152 ter: sublime, sparkling and clean. Reflecting sky and forests Sulkava...... 154 as clearly as a mirror, it leaves an indelible impression. Get outdoors here, whether you rent a cottage and try Mikkeli...... 154 your hand at kindling the perfect blaze in the sauna stove, Valamo...... 155 grab a canoe and paddle the family-friendly Squirrel Route Jyväskylä...... 156 or go in search of rare freshwater seals. Kuopio...... 161 Towns, too, have much to offer. Savonlinna hosts opera in the wonderful setting of its island castle. Jyväskylä’s lively feel and architectural portfolio have obvious appeal, while Kuopio offers lake trips and a great smoke sauna. Lakeland’s people – the savolaiset – are among the most Best Places outspoken and friendly of Finns. They are often lampooned to Stay due to their distinctive Savo dialect, accent and humour. But ¨¨Lossiranta Lodge (p148) they have the last laugh thanks to the unparalleled beauty of their region. ¨¨Mannila (p151) ¨¨Valamo monastery (p155) ¨¨Hotel Yöpuu (p157) When to Go ¨¨Oravi Outdoor Centre The Lakeland (p152) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm 30/86 6/150

20/68 4/100 Best Places 10/50 to Eat 0/32 2/50 ¨¨Musta Lammas (p164) -10/14

¨¨Pöllöwaari (p159) -20/-4 0 J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨¨Huvila (p149) ¨¨Figaro (p157) Feb Check out the Jul Great weather Aug See all the ¨¨Kummisetä (p164) ice sculptures in for water activi- highlights in Savonlinna, and ties, and the best decent weather explore Lin- festivals, including but without the nansaari National opera in Savonlin- July crowds. Park on skates. na’s castle. The Lakeland SAVOLINNA 145 - #\ m #\ u ä li si a lk IA 0k sa en iles Ko 6 #] ä se 71 in #\ ek /· i /· ensu li lk ärvi #\ 5m rk iä Li ij sk #÷ nkaharju #\ tional #\ Jo Ko yt Puruve Pa #\ lv i a RUSS Pyhä rimäki ko Sotkum Rääkkylä häse Pu #\ en vi rt Na Orivesi Hö #\ Po Ke in Py #\ po #\ ämylly ijär li rikkal Enon i #\ Yl Piel i #\ # Ü in #\ # â 6 Ko t si a Pa /· o Vi #\ ajärvi or ärvi ve mo uk st i #\ ko rp # – u la tional lo rm inij rk #\ Ju 1 onlaht vonlinna Lu Ai # ok #] 23 Vi ik Ke i /· Va Orav tional Park Ko Na Pa Sa Vu io ra na #\ Lu i 05 02 sk 6 2 kump # #\ rv #\ a Linnansaar Na # Cruising the picturesque Cruising the picturesque Entering a fantasy land a fantasy Entering #\ i to # e 2 Ka

# Imat #\ anko Kaav i #\ es

Saimaa Lake largest, its (p152) at the seriously offbeat offbeat at the seriously music museum mechanical (p154) in Varkaus 6 7 lakeland en route to a visit to visit to a to en route lakeland at monastery the Orthodox (p155) Valamo Ou i umal i apavesi es D Ju s a #\ #\ iv 75 # Ü Pu inäv Ha Savonlin /· t sves a #\ av mi uk #\ vi He 14 #\ en va al rkau m) 5 /· usniem är # ävirta Ha ntul t nv #\ Sulk a aj Su Tu Li Va or pp iä uurusvesi Riistavesi (45k s nk ntas t Co 17 J opio #\ 7 ls #\ rp /· 5 Le # or So au i Lake Saimaa Ra Even if you’re no ariaholic, the buzz of the if you’re Even /· va #\ Ni ahti Ku Ai # – # – llavesi Anttol rp rk nl #\ Ju 4 ki #\ #] lar setting. this the most rewarding makes festival time and cafes opento visit, with more restaurants post-show dinner debriefsand animated over deep into the darkless night.or bubbly going is one of Europe’s most visually dramatic is one of Europe’s The castlecastles, hosts Olavinlinna. July’s in a spectacu festival opera world-famous Ai # Ka i Va pi kkel 3 ivuori La 13 #\ E6 - #\ /· #\ /· Mi uk opio ä 5 onenjo il Ristiina #\ #] /· Ha k almi #\ llavesi Ku 72 Sillinjärv i #\ i pp Su 15 ar /· #\ as /· #\ pi es Ka es Jä rt ki av Sweating it out in it Sweating Peering at the visionary visionary at the Peering in a cottage Relaxing Vi # ÷ am #\ i i el si 9 tionalP äk Maaninka Repov Pi #\ /· Aalto Alvar of buildings in the lively (p156) Jyväskylä of town university the region’s one of by including lakes, of thousands 3 4 5 smoke smoke sociable Kuopio’s (p161) sauna utal #\ ttula Na 23 eksämä Ra 69 e /· OMEN aa #\ /· Pi asniem Kar Istunm Puulave itel i #÷ Highlights #\ ä- #\ rk es Ke a el 5 Kang rtunm sa #\ ev i ol ITÄ-SU /· Et #\ ivonmäki lo Pe in es nn Le ä Jout sa ev #\ Ko He as #\ tional Pa 5 ät #\ 77 uratsalo nn ki rk E7 4 rk /· /· Na # ÷ /· #\ Pa Ko Mu mä 4 väskyl Säyn tional ri 5 htipud /· ä #\ oski \ # 3 #\ E7 Jy OMEN Pi # Na /· i ne #\ nk #\ #\ sm # – tional Pa e hä-Häkki Lakeland asaa sk ETELÄ-SUOMEN sy SU Leivon ä Sy it t tional I- # ÷ Py Na si ijänne 9 rk #\ ä ko vi am Vi /· or Pä Na Pa Soaring on the wing of wing of on the Soaring Paddling around the around Paddling Päijän är Kanno Vääk ms rp jäve #\ #\ 24 # ÷ Ai Ääne 24 LÄNS #\ Jä /· Muur tä arij Linnansaari and Kolovesi and Kolovesi Linnansaari (p152) National Parks the rare of a glimpse seeking seal ringed Saimaa 2 The 1 an aria in the memorable an aria in the memorable the of setting castle Festival Opera Savonlinna (p147) 015 / POP27,420 /· Jyväskyl #\ 13 Pe /· Sa Savonlinna % Savonlin towns, prettiest One of Finland’s as the water day na shimmers on a sunny ripples around its centre. Set on islands lakes, and Pihlajavesi Haapavesi between with a a classic Lakeland settlement it’s islet perched on a rocky major attraction: