©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd The Lakeland Includes ¨ Why Go? Savonlinna ..........145 Most of Finland could be dubbed lakeland, but around here Punkaharju .........150 it seems there’s more water than terra firma. And what wa- Seal Lakes ..........152 ter: sublime, sparkling and clean. Reflecting sky and forests Sulkava .............154 as clearly as a mirror, it leaves an indelible impression. Get outdoors here, whether you rent a cottage and try Mikkeli .............154 your hand at kindling the perfect blaze in the sauna stove, Valamo .............155 grab a canoe and paddle the family-friendly Squirrel Route Jyväskylä ...........156 or go in search of rare freshwater seals. Kuopio .............161 Towns, too, have much to offer. Savonlinna hosts opera in the wonderful setting of its island castle. Jyväskylä’s lively feel and architectural portfolio have obvious appeal, while Kuopio offers lake trips and a great smoke sauna. Lakeland’s people – the savolaiset – are among the most Best Places outspoken and friendly of Finns. They are often lampooned to Stay due to their distinctive Savo dialect, accent and humour. But ¨ Lossiranta Lodge (p148) they have the last laugh thanks to the unparalleled beauty of their region. ¨ Mannila (p151) ¨ Valamo monastery (p155) ¨ Hotel Yöpuu (p157) When to Go ¨ Oravi Outdoor Centre The Lakeland (p152) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm 30/86 6/150 20/68 4/100 Best Places 10/50 to Eat 0/32 2/50 ¨ Musta Lammas (p164) -10/14 ¨ Pöllöwaari (p159) -20/-4 0 J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨ Huvila (p149) ¨ Figaro (p157) Feb Check out the Jul Great weather Aug See all the ¨ Kummisetä (p164) ice sculptures in for water activi- highlights in Savonlinna, and ties, and the best decent weather explore Lin- festivals, including but without the nansaari National opera in Savonlin- July crowds. Park on skates. na’s castle. 145 Sonkajärvi /·5 (45km) D #\ #\ Pihtipudas Vuokko Pielinen #\ #\ Lieksa Lapinlahti /·6 /·75 Koli #\ LÄNSI-SUOMEN #\Pielavesi /·E63 Juuka National Nilsiä#\ /· #\ Park 77 Keitele #\ Maaninka #÷ #\ Kuopio Koliporti #\ Koli #\ Viitasaari Sillinjärvi#\ Airport #\Juankoski –# Kaavi #\ Juurusvesi #\ Kannonkoski Kallavesi /·17 #\ #\ Luikonlahti /·4 Karttula #\ Kuopio #]4 #÷ Riistavesi #\Polvijärvi ITÄ-SUOMEN Tu usniemi #\ /·13 Pyhä-Häkki Höytiäinen National Park Kallavesi #\Sotkuma #\ Outokumpu#\ #\ Viinijärvi /· Istunmäki Joensuu Saarijärvi E75 Konnevesi Lintula #\ /·69 #\ Ü# Viinijärvi #\ #] Äänekoski#\ #\ #\ Suonenjoki Convent #÷ Rautalampi #6 Valamo Ylämylly Suvasvesi /· Etelä- #\ 23 /·9 #\Leppävirta Karvio Konnevesi Kermajärvi Pyhäselkä#\ Jyväskylä National Park Heinävesi#\ Pyhäselkä Airport –# Jäppilä #\ Kolovesi /·23 #\ #\ #2 Petäjävesi Jyväskylä #\ #7 Varkaus National #\ Pieksämäki Rääkkylä #3#\ Park –# Haukivesi Linnansaari Orivesi #\ Varkaus Muurame#\ Säynätsalo #\ #2 National Park /· Virtasalmi Airport #\ 71 Muuratsalo #\ #\ Oravi Rantasalmi Enonkoski Savonlinna /·9 Kangasniemi #\Haukivuori #\ Airport Puruvesi #÷ /·5 /·14 /·72 –# Ü# #\Kerimäki #\ #\ Haapavesi Leivonmäki Leivonmäki Juva #\ #\Jämsä National Savonlinna#1 Park Lusto â# /·6 Puulavesi Sulkava #\ #\ /·24 Päijänne Joutsa #\ Punkaharju #] Mikkeli Parikkala #\ LAKE THE #\Anttola Sysmä /·4 Pertunmaa #\ #\ #\ #\Ristiina Puumala Päijänne #÷ National /·E75 /·5 /· Park 15 #5 RUSSIA Repovesi L ETELÄ-SUOMEN Lake Saimaa 050km /·24 NationalPark AND #\Heinola e# 025miles Vääksy #÷ /·13 #\ Imatra #] SAVOLINNA The Lakeland Highlights 1 Soaring on the wing of 3 Peering at the visionary its largest, Lake Saimaa an aria in the memorable buildings of Alvar Aalto (p152) castle setting of the (p156) in the lively 6 Cruising the picturesque Savonlinna Opera Festival university town of Jyväskylä lakeland en route to a visit to (p147) 4 Sweating it out in the Orthodox monastery at 2 Paddling around the Kuopio’s sociable smoke Valamo (p155) Linnansaari and Kolovesi sauna (p161) 7 Entering a fantasy land National Parks (p152) 5 Relaxing in a cottage at the seriously offbeat seeking a glimpse of the rare by one of the region’s mechanical music museum Saimaa ringed seal thousands of lakes, including (p154) in Varkaus is one of Europe’s most visually dramatic Savonlinna castles, Olavinlinna. The castle hosts July’s % 015 / POP 27,420 world-famous opera festival in a spectacu- One of Finland’s prettiest towns, Savonlin- lar setting. na shimmers on a sunny day as the water Even if you’re no ariaholic, the buzz of the ripples around its centre. Set on islands festival makes this the most rewarding time between Haapavesi and Pihlajavesi lakes, to visit, with more restaurants and cafes open it’s a classic Lakeland settlement with a and animated post-show debriefs over dinner major attraction: perched on a rocky islet or bubbly going deep into the darkless night. .