VISITORS' GUIDE the Rock View Lodge
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The Rock View Lodge VISITORS’ GUIDE to one of the most beautiful natural places on Earth North Rupununi Wetlands, Annai – Guyana Our niece Miriam, enjoying the swimming pool. What is so special about Rock View? Rock View is one of the most relax- A daily delight is the stream of ing and comfortable places to stay schoolchildren, on foot or on bicy- in the North Rupununi. It has the cles, who have right of way through Rock View as a hub to the beautiful Rupununi most unique blend of people, cul- Rock View on their way to the Annai ture, cuisine, art, agriculture and Primary School at one end and the Acknowledgements tour activities, and its commitment Annai Secondary School and Youth to excellence is reflected in the very Learning Center of the Bina Hill In- We could not have published this guide book on Rock View and the history high quality of its hospitality ser- stitute at the other. of its early years without the encouragement and support of Advertising vices and its well-maintained prem- Neatly dressed in their uniforms and Marketing Services of Guyana and St. Lucia for the initial layout, For- ises. It is run by a family that itself with golden ribbons, wearing slip- bras publishing of Boa Vista, Brazil for having added to the concept, and is a blend of Amerindian, Brazilian, pers, socks and shoes or going bare- finally, our special friend and past guest here at Rock View, Ali Alsaloom of British and Basque. It stands as a foot and picking up mangoes along Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, for his generosity and kindness in refining proud example of Guyana’s brand the way, they salute you as they what you now have before you as being a testimonial to the achievements of tourism at its best, with its blend pass with polite good mornings, of Rock View. of heritage, local knowledge, social friendly smiles, giggles and chatter. I would like to express a special thanks to such pioneering spirits in estab- connections and personalities. lishing eco-tourism in the Rupununi by mentioning such icons as Diane Mc- Turk of Karanambu and Sydney and Theo Allicock of Surama, who in their dif- ferent ways have supported us at Rock View and our many partners in tourism for Guyana now being recognized as a unique eco-tourism destination. Finally, I would like to thank my own family for having supported me with their great patience, sacrifice and understanding to the making of a dream really come true! Rock View founder Colin Edwards Rock View supporter Vanda Radzik. Patch, the favourite resident dog. This is one of the subtle but import- area. There is a pleasing coherence local experts such as Narus Edwards ant trademarks of the Rock View and connectedness everywhere. It and Ivor Daniels from neighbouring brand of tourism: its intrinsic link is as if Rock View has emerged from villages, many of them trained by with community life and its partner- the very earthworks of Annai, with Colin in the art of finishing and pre- ship with growing the tourism busi- its terracotta tones of clays and cision. ness in the wider Rupununi in a way rocks and the blended browns and The “tree-house” lounge and pa- that is respectful of the local people, greys of the handmade woodwork tio-style dining area are a relatively their aspirations and relationships. and roofing shingles that complete new addition to Rock View and are Nearly everyone you see at Rock the rustic splendour of Rock View. a microcosm of its unique design View has an amazing talent and Locally made clay bricks, all pro- and construction. The location is life story, over and above their role duced in the neighbouring village between the two ancient and tow- as part of the Rock View staff fam- of Kwatamang, are used for walls, ering mango trees, that stand as ily. There is the story of the Bra- verandas and even as terrazzo-style stately sentinels in the gardens, and sche family, the original owners of floor tiles. A unique feature is the under which al fresco meals were Rock Point Ranch, which has now agate-embedded walls of many of enjoyed on the magnificent hard- “Tree House under the Mango Trees,” by British become Rock View. There is Uncle artist Shirley Felts. the buildings, which are embedded wood trestle tables as a much-loved Dennis, who pioneered the Panora- with beautiful one-of-a-kind agates RockView speciality – until the man- ma Nature Trail hike on the Moun- ditional basketry and can process and jaspers and best showcased on go-laden trees began vigorously tain of the Sacred Table. There is the straw from the ite palm herself, the guest room verandas. The only shedding their fruit on the guests Castro the Capatache, who looks making traditional as well as con- imported materials are the roof tiles dining below, and it was considered every bit the part, with his hat and temporary items from these natural from Boa Vista in neighbouring Bra- prudent to sling a roof between lasso as he sits astride his horse fibres, including the attractive straw zil, which were produced by a fami- the two mango trees! The roof is and rides through Rock View on mats used on the dining tables. Her ly-run business there. itself a work of art – superbly made his daily cattle round-up. But then husband Roeland, originally from The combination of natural mate- with handmade shingles that have there is the fact that Castro, from Arawak stock from far-away St. rials and works by local artisans re- weathered beautifully – as only Rupertee Village next door to Rock Cuthbert’s Village, is a very talented flects the partnership that has creat- shingles can. Hanging from it are View, is also one of the most talent- sculptor and uses the local woods. ed the Rock View Eco Lodge and its the swirls of “monkey ladders” from ed practitioners of Makushi culture His work and that of other local environs. The Rock View buildings the rainforest and twigs on which and knowledge-holders of the her- sculptors is on display and for sale are all designed by the founder, perch an array of carefully carved itage; he and his troupe are among at the Rock View Craft Shop in the Colin Edwards, and constructed by and hand-painted birds, replicas of the best performers of traditional charming benab snuggled between dances and songs. Added to which, the two guest houses. Castro is also an excellent leather- There is a distinct aesthetic within craftsman, making all his own leath- the Rock View compound that con- er tack and tools of the trade. sists of a very clever and artful use New additions to Rock View staff of natural, local materials and a rock are Maria from Karasabai Village in motif that connects the infrastruc- the distant South Pakaraimas, who ture very naturally to the actual ge- is extraordinarily talented in tra- ology and landscape of the Annai Founder Colin Edwards with his office team. A giant anteater, an example of the area’s wildlife. The lodge and gardens of Rock View. the local savannah and forest spe- er) and the Harpy Eagle by Bartram, ful array of cashew trees, including for. This garden is built from the cies that were produced by local as well as works by Winslow Craig. a sublime reef of mangroves that bare savannah earth over the years, sculptors. The tree-house lounge These share space with intricate surround the area and a small sep- with a variety of the beloved flow- is also decorated with calabash hand embroidery, akin to miniature arate water-lily pool nestled with- ering shrubs, fruit and shade trees bowls of dried forest fruits, seeds tapestries, made by the Makushi in the arms of the main swimming that have become signatures of the and pods, and with part of the Rock women of the villages through a pool. The structure and surround- tropical countries of our region: the View Art Collection, one of the best project transferred from the Red ing landscape make the Rock Pool flamboyant, samaan, mango, ma- private art collections in Guyana. Thread Guyana group, which was uniquely attractive and give the lacca, local almond and bougain- Nowhere else in the North Ru- developed and introduced by Van- place a sort of natural, spa-like fea- villea, to name but a few of these pununi can you find such a treasure da Radzik and inspired by the work ture. The Rock Pool is outfitted with transplants. Mixed with these are trove of the arts, boasting some of of Valerie Cox of South Rupununi, all the modern pool accoutrements, local bromeliads, palms and forest the best pieces by renowned Guy- whose own work is proudly dis- such as a pump and chlorine, to en- orchids. Gardening enthusiasts who anese, Brazilian and even a few in- played in Rock View. sure health and safety, but these visit Rock View will be in a plant par- ternationally established artists that The landmark rock that gives Rock are suitably well blended into the adise. share space with some of the best View its name and provenance has poolscape. And then, for the literary and his- work of local artists and artisans. The been beautifully enhanced to bring Nowhere else in the area is there a tory buff, there is the library. The collection includes a 1970s Philip out its loveliness and its accessibili- garden so beautifully and thought- collection of books stems from Col- Moore original watercolour, several ty as a perfect place for meditation, fully landscaped and so well cared in’s own omnivorous reading ap- paintings by George Simon, Philbert for experiencing sunrise and moon- Gajadhar and Marjorie Broodhagen, rise over the savannahs and for star- as well as watercolours by Morag gazing at night.