978-1-926846-94-1.Pdf

This is a reproduction of a book from the McGill University Library collection. Title: Travels through Denmark, Sweden, Austria, and part of Italy in 1798 & 1799 Author: Küttner, Carl Gottlob, 1755-1805 Publisher, year: London : Printed for Richard Phillips, 1805 The pages were digitized as they were. The original book may have contained pages with poor print. Marks, notations, and other marginalia present in the original volume may also appear. For wider or heavier books, a slight curvature to the text on the inside of pages may be noticeable. ISBN of reproduction: 978-1-926846-94-1 This reproduction is intended for personal use only, and may not be reproduced, re-published, or re-distributed commercially. For further information on permission regarding the use of this reproduction contact McGill University Library. McGill University Library www.mcgill.ca/library TRAVELS THROUGH DENMARK, SAVEDEN, AUSTRIA, AND PART OF ITALY, IN 1798 # 1799, BY CHARLES GOTTLOB KUTTNER TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN. LONDON: PRINTED FOR RICHARD PHILLIPS, 71, ST. PAUL'S CHUUCK YARD, By Barnard # Sultzer, Water Lane, Fleet Street, 1805. ADVERTISEMENT OF THE TRANSLATOR. 1 HE Writer of the following Pages is a literary Character of considerable eminence in Germany, and not wholly unknown in Eng land, with which a long visit has rendered him intimately acquainted. His observations are obviously not the result of a superficial mind. A residence in different Countries has fur nished him with an opportunity of seeing objects in various points of view, and has enabled him to draw more accurate conclu sions from those which fall under his observ ation. M. Kiittner himself remarks, that this Work should not be considered as a complete de scription of the Countries through which it conducts the Reader; but, at the same time assures us that all the observations have been made on the spot or place to which they relate; because he was resolved to write on IV ADVERTISEMENT. no subject but what he had himself seen. This stamps his Work with' the character of extraordinary accuracy and impartiality; which, combined with the Author's statistical and political knowledge, and the information he acquired by conversing with the most en lightened Men in the Places he visited, ren ders these Travels peculiarly interesting. The Translator has judged it proper to dis pense with the desultory observations on Ham burgh and other well known Parts of Ger many, and has conducted the Reader at once to the Author's entrance into Denmark; a Country, the present state of which is little known to the English Reader. London, Oct. 2G, 1804. TRAVELS THROUGH DENMARK, SWEDEN, AND NORWAY, IN THE YEARS 179S * 1799. LETTER I. JOURNEY FROM KIEL TO SLESWICK.—THE EYDER. CA NAL BETWEEN HOLSTEIN. AND SLESWICK. ECKERN- FOHRDE. SLESWICK. THE CASTLE OF' GOTTORP. THE COUNTRY OF THE ANGLES. FLENSBURG. THE ISLAND OF ALSEX. SONDERBURG. AUGUSTENBURG. —APENRADE. HADERSLEV. CHRISTIANSFELD, A MO RAVIAN SETTLEMENT. KOLDING. MIDDLEFAHRT. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE DUCHY OF SLES WICK. ODENSE.—-NYEBORG. OBSERVATIONS ON THE ISLAND OF FUNEN, AND THE DANISH DOMINIONS IN GENERAL.—PASSAGE OF THE GREAT BELT.—*SPROE.— ICE-BOATS, WHICH CARRY THE POST OVER THE BELT IN WINTEPt. KORSOER. COPENHAGEN, June 1798* 'EAVINGiviei, we soon arrived at the canal at Knox, which has, in this place, a very tine sluice. The river Eyder, which forms the boundary between Holstein and Sleswick, is navigable from Rendsburg to the North Sea; so that, to establish a com munication between the latter and the Baltic, nothing more was necessary, than to render navigable the six miles between Rends burg and the Baltic. On account of the fall in this \)< 11, six sluices were constructed; and that which I saw, was equal, both in neatness and convenience, to any I ever met with in England and Holland. I was so fortunate as to arrive just at the moment when a large vessel was passing through, on its way to the Baltic. During this operation, which was performed in about half an hour, I entered into conversation with the captain; from whom I learned, that this canal, is capable of admitting vessels of upwards of 200 tons; but if they draw more than nine feet water, it is necessary to lighten'them. KUTTNER.] B 2 KUTTNER'S TRAVELS If we consider the vast circuit round all Sleswick and Jutland, which is saved by ships navigating this canal, we should be led to suppose, that this advantage is of sufficient magnitude to counter balance every other consideration. This, however, is not the case; for vessels aie subject to so many delays in the passage, that, though the length of the canal is only 22 German miles, they are sometimes detained in it a whole month ; especially if the wind happen to be contrary. A passage of 48 or 50 hours is reckoned uncommonly expeditious. The toll paid at each of the six sluices is four shillings; the same is required for two bridges; so that the whole sum does not exceed 32 schillings, (about two shillings and six-pence English). On the north side of the canal is situated, the charming resi dence of the count Von Bauditz. The grounds are laid out in the English style ; and the house has been lately rebuilt. The road was tolerably good; and, like most of those in the duchy of Sles wick, paved with very large stones. Though they enable one to proceed with greater rapidity, than on a sandy soil; yet, they are productive of no small inconvenience to the carriage and every thing within it. Before the traveller reaches Eckernfohrde, he enjoys a beau tiful view of the bay on which that town is situated. This tract contains a great portion of wood-land; whence it has been deno minated Sylva Danica. Eckernfohrde is neither a handsome nor a large place; but it has some trade. Close to the town is a fresh-water lake; which is, however, connected with the bay. Over the place where they join, is a wooden bridge, across which lies the road to Sleswick. The distance from this place to Sleswick is 14 miles. This tract consists principally of moors and saud; it contains little wood, and few inhabitants. The Schley, a long, narrow bay, which runs from the Baltic up to the town of Sleswick, affords, however,, some pleasing views. Sleswick is a charming place; greatly resembling the capitals of the democratic Swiss cantons. In some parts, it has less the appear ance of a town, than of groups of country-houses. It consists prin cipally of one street, about two miles and a-half in length; in which many of the houses stand detached. Almost all of them are small; many having only a ground-floor; and few being more than one story high. They are built, in general, of wood; and have a neat, clean, and pleasing appearance. The town is situated at the bot tom of the Schley; and, when seen from the water, or from an eminence, it makes a considerable figure; as all true besffibuses then appear most conspicuous. These, in generjtK belong to the nobility, who come from all parts of the duchy, and from the inlands, to spend the winter in this place. Sleswick is the re- THROUGH DENMARK, SWEDEN, &C 3 sidence of the governor of the province: but it has very little trade, notwithstanding its secure and capacious harbour; because there is not a sufficient depth of water at its mouth. The cathe dral, though a very old and insignificant structure, is, how ever, an interesting object to the observer; because it contains, in some measure, the history of the arts and of the progress of taste, in this country, during several centuries. I scarcely ever saw an edifice of this kind so much crowded with monuments; they however, attest the splendour and opulence of the families which are here interred. All the pillars are hung round with busts, sta tues, pictures, &c. Many families have distinct chapels, in which the deceased are deposited, in immense coffins of marble, lead, and copper. One of these chapels contains the remains of the ancient dukes of Sleswick; and its walls are decorated with their effigies, in white marble, Several bishops are likewise interred here. The large marble monument of Frederic I. of Denmark, who died in 1534, is embellished with a great number of statues of white marble; the execution of which is by no means con temptible. I was particularly struck with an altar-piece, of ancient workmanship. The figures upon it, which are almost innumerable, are of wood; and represent Scripture-histories. They are richly gilt all over, by which the workmanship is, in some degree, -dis* advantageously concealed. The castle of Gottorp, though situated close to Sleswick, is not generally considered as belonging to the town. It is a large struc ture, and was formerly the residence of the dukes: the garden is terminated by a hill, which commands a delightful prospect. On the eminence stands a pleasurerhouse, where was formerly the celebrated globe., which was afterwards removed to Petersburg. It contains nothing worthy of notice; and is now the ordinary residence of Prince Charles of Hesse-Cassel, governor of Sles wick and Holstein; and consort of the princess Louisa, daugh ter of the Danish king, Frederic V. and mother of the Crown-*, princess. SONDERBURG, in the island of ALSEN, June 2Sd. We left Sleswick early this morning, and ascended on foot a, considerable eminence, in order to enjoy another view of the town, the bay, and its islands. We then crossed a tract of the worst land in the duchy; while the contiguous country of the Angles, from which the Anglo-Saxons are supposed to have derived their origin, or at least their name, is equally distinguished for the ex cellent quality of its soil.

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