1 Venue For more information The Store X, 180 Strand, please visit our website: London WC2R 1EA londonfashionweek.com

Opening Times For up-to-the-minute show Friday, 14th September times, call the LFW timeline 08.00–19.00 on: 020 3772 1484 Or follow @lfwtimeline Saturday, 15th September on Twitter 09.30–19.00 Sunday, 16th September Twitter @londonfashionwk 09.30–19.00 Instagram @londonfashionweek Facebook /londonfashionweek Monday, 17th September Youtube /britishfashioncouncil 09.30–19.00 Tuesday, 18th September 09.30–18.00

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and the DiscoveryLAB, an experiential space featuring fashion, art, technology and performance pop-ups. The home of LFW — The Strand, hosts the Store X, 180 BFC's Designer Showrooms, a curated showcase of the most exciting ready-to-wear and accessories brands. Also found at the Store X is the BFC Show Space, the NEWGEN pop-up showroom global fashion economy. In In economy. global fashion continue to focus on we 2018 Fashion, a platform Positive designed to celebrate diversity, craftsmanship and sustainability, encouraging fashion community, to be used as a platform to promote global positive change. which are emerging designers; are emerging which creative the best highlighting industrytalent our to offer. has is mission The to harness BFC’s the power of the fashion industry growth to create sustainable while promoting for the sector, in the our designer businesses and events from over 190 190 over from events and of many brands, international

features catwalks, presentations innovation and commerce. It international hub for creativity, international hub for creativity, this season’s packed schedule this season’s packed cementsposition as an London’s 18th September 2018 and 18th September 2018 from Friday, 14th to Tuesday, 14th to Tuesday, from Friday, London runs London Fashion Week (LFW) September 2018. (BFC) is delighted to welcome (BFC) is delighted to welcome you to London Fashion Week The British Fashion Council The British Fashion Council 6 Text by Kenya Hunt, ELLE Positive Fashion What does it mean to create fashion This reality has inspired a groundswell work to reduce fashion’s footprint. And agencies in response, including the decision at a time when people are collectively of activity, around the British Fashion with the help of Vivienne Westwood, to install private dressing rooms at Store X questioning the world around them? Social Council’s three pillars of Positive Fashion: London’s fashion businesses are beginning Studios to protect models and allow them media is filled with a growing wave of out- Sustainability, Equality and Diversity, to see the value in switching to green a place to change away photographers. spoken activists spanning Generations Z, and Craftmanship and Community — energy sources, as the British Fashion The Models First Initiative, organised in Millennials, Xennials, X and beyond — each pillar a direct response to wider Council works with the Mayor of London 2017 to combat mistreatment of models many of them prominent celebrities and conversations and debates in the zeitgeist, and music and film industry’s to achieve of any gender and set a framework of best influencers, while even more are little- each pillar supported by the city of London. greater, longer-lasting impact. practices, has taken on a new significance known change-makers. How can fashion It’s been difficult to discuss fashion this Meanwhile, London continues to evolve in a year in which some of fashion’s most stay relevant to their lives when consumers year without addressing its impact on the into a more diverse fashion community celebrated icons have been exposed for are increasingly concerned with the greater environment. And recent studies reveal that with the autumn/winter ’18 shows being abusing their power. Meanwhile the social, political and environmental good? millennial consumers are more likely to buy LFW’s most race and trans diverse season Zone, provides a safe place for models to These are the questions facing the fashion clothing from a brand with a sustainable ever. Models of colour represented 34.6 eat, seek downtime and therapy if needed world as London Fashion Week kicks off. story. This London Fashion Week, there percent of castings, a 3.6% increase over during the peripatetic London shows offers And the solutions being discussed are are many to celebrate including Johnstons the year before, while the runways reveal much needed support during the fashion rooted in optimism and a desire for change. of Elgin, steventai, Kevin Germanier, room to grow in the area of plus-size, age calendar’s most stressful period. It’s hard to overstate the transformation Richard Malone, Mother of Pearl and and disability representation. As it works As awareness and discussion around these fashion has undergone in the past decade, Teatum Jones. Each one debunking to become the most diverse fashion week, topics grows, global action will surely going from an insular, homogenous and age-old myths that sustainable fashion London’s fashion businesses and media increase. And those who hesitate, will exclusive world of luxury (with one of can’t be highly creative and wholly desirable, titles could all band together to promote the surely get left behind. Adopting sustainable the biggest carbon footprints and a high and all using innovative practices in design, greater diversity needed behind the scenes and inclusive practices is good for business. tolerance for discrimination) to an industry upcycling and textiles to create fashion to make inclusivity in fashion the norm. With a firm plan in place, a celebratory increasingly embracing inclusivity, circularity that doesn’t hurt the planet. Their work And in the year of #MeToo and the spirit and commitment to seeing it through, and social activism. goes hand in hand with the BFC’s drive centenary of the suffragettes, the campaign London, one of the world’s most diverse to promote and sustain the kind of This is a time when fashion’s biggest to promote equal treatment of women in cities, is already setting the stage for long- craftsmanship that makes London’s fashion conglomerates and brightest emerging a female-dominated industry (whether it lasting progress through the BFC. talent special and sets it apart from ideas stars are collectively beginning to recognize be models or the many mothers, sisters and of ecologically-damaging disposability. #PositiveFashion that it’s no longer enough to create daughters who work in clothing factories) britishfashioncouncil.com/positive-fashion beautiful things from within a bubble The work goes beyond the London has never seemed more urgent. Change is of isolation. A fashion industry rooted Fashion Week calendar. Earlier this afoot in many areas from the sheer numbers in social and environmental good is not year, Prince Charles, a long advocate for of models taking to Facebook, Twitter only the modern way forward, but a must environmentalism, met with designers and and Instagram to share their stories to the for all businesses that want to grow. businesses in White City to discuss their various actions taken by the BFC and model Schedule Thursday, 13th September

13.00–15.00 SPECIAL OPENING: C-POP See Invitation Catwalk by VIP.COM (Mukzin, Bailuyu, A Life On The Left, Kisscat) 18.00–20.00 JOSEPH: ‘Gingernutz Takes See Invitation Event Paris’ Book Signing

18.00–20.00 Sophie Kah Salon Show See Invitation Event and Cocktail Party 18.00–20.30 Curated Canadian Collections See Invitation Event 19.00–20.00 VIN + OMI SS19 Show P / F See Invitation Event 19.00–21.30 AISSO See Invitation Event 19.00–Late Urbanears presents Listen See Invitation Event To Yourself by Tove Lo Friday, 14th September

08.00–09.00 London Fashion Week See Invitation Event Official Opening 09.00 Richard Malone* BFC Show Space Catwalk 09.30–11.30 Emma Charles Designer Discovery Showrooms LAB 09.30–11.30 Gayeon Lee See Invitation Presentation 10.00 Jamie Wei Huang See Invitation Catwalk 10.00–18.00 Amanda Wakeley See Invitation App. 11.00 J. JS Lee M/W BFC Show Space Catwalk 12.00 Nicopanda See Invitation Catwalk 13.00 Bora Aksu BFC Show Space Catwalk 14.00 Ryan LO See Invitation Catwalk 15.00 Kiko Kostadinov* See Invitation Catwalk 15.30–17.30 XU ZHI See Invitation Presentation 16.00 Marta Jakubowski BFC Show Space Catwalk 17.00 Pam Hogg See Invitation Catwalk 17.00–19.00 KALDA Designer Discovery Showrooms LAB Sunday, 16th September

P / F M/W 17.30–19.30 Johnstons of Elgin See Invitation Presentation 09.00–17.00 Jenny Packham See Invitation App. 18.00 Matty Bovan* BFC Show Space Catwalk 09.30 Victoria Beckham See Invitation Catwalk 19.00 Xiao Li See Invitation Catwalk 09.30–11.30 MARRKNULL Designer Discovery Showrooms LAB 20.00 Ashley Williams See Invitation Catwalk 20.30–22.00 Katie Ann McGuigan See Invitation Event 09.30–11.30 minki BFC Presentation Show Space 10.30 Victoria Beckham See Invitation Catwalk Saturday, 15th September 11.30 Preen by Thornton See Invitation Catwalk Bregazzi 09.00 Eudon Choi See Invitation Catwalk 12.30 Roland Mouret See Invitation Catwalk 09.30–11.30 Anya Hindmarch See Invitation Presentation 13.15 Margaret Howell M/W See Invitation Catwalk 09.30–11.30 Clio Peppiatt Designer Discovery 13.30–15.30 STEVE O SMITH Designer Discovery Showrooms LAB Showrooms LAB 10.00 FYODOR GOLAN BFC Show Space Catwalk 14.00 Delpozo See Invitation Catwalk 11.00 ALEXACHUNG See Invitation Catwalk 14.00–15.30 Supriya Lele * BFC Presentation Show Space 11.30–13.30 Alice Archer See Invitation Presentation 15.00 Fashion East See Invitation Catwalk 12.00 Ports 1961 See Invitation Catwalk 15.30–17.30 steventai P / F See Invitation Presentation 12.30–13.30 OSMAN See Invitation Presentation 16.00 CHALAYAN See Invitation Catwalk 13.00 Jasper Conran See Invitation Catwalk 17.00 Nicholas Kirkwood See Invitation Catwalk 13.30–15.30 Markus Lupfer See Invitation Presentation 18.00 Simone Rocha See Invitation Catwalk 14.00 Molly Goddard*** See Invitation Catwalk 19.00 Ashish BFC Show Space Catwalk 15.00 Halpern* See Invitation Catwalk 20.00 Peter Pilotto See Invitation Catwalk 16.00 JW Anderson M/W See Invitation Catwalk 20.30–21.00 2018 Shenzhen See Invitation Event 16.30–18.30 Micol Ragni Designer Discovery Products Show Showrooms LAB 20.30–21.30 AADNEVIK SS19 See Invitation Event 17.00 House of Holland See Invitation Catwalk 17.30–19.30 Sadie Williams BFC Show Space Presentation 20.30–22.00 Victor Wong–Show See Invitation Event & After Party 18.00 Gareth Pugh See Invitation Catwalk 20.30–Late Stories From Arabia See Invitation Event 19.00 Temperley London See Invitation Catwalk Mansion Soirée 20.00 Mary Katrantzou See Invitation Catwalk 21.00–21.45 Pierre Garroudi Spectacular See Invitation Event M/W Fashion Show 21.00 JULIEN MACDONALD See Invitation Catwalk Monday, 17th September Tuesday, 18th September

09.00 REJINA PYO ** See Invitation Catwalk 09.00 pushBUTTON BFC Show Show Space 09.00–16.30 Pringle of Scotland See Invitation App. 09.00–11.00 Gènavant Designer Discovery 09.30–10.30 Paul Costelloe BFC Presentation Showrooms LAB Show Space 09.30–11.30 NABIL NAYAL ** See Invitation Presentation 10.00 Roksanda See Invitation Catwalk 10.00 Natasha Zinko See Invitation Catwalk 10.00–18.00 Amanda Wakeley See Invitation App. 10.00–18.00 Amanda Wakeley See Invitation App. 11.00 ERDEM See Invitation Catwalk 11.30–13.30 Malene Oddershede Bach See Invitation Presentation 12.00 palmer//harding** See Invitation Catwalk 12.00 Roberta Einer BFC Catwalk 12.30–14.30 Alexander White See Invitation Presentation Show Space 13.00 Christopher Kane See Invitation Catwalk 12.00–15.00 Victoria, Victoria Beckham See Invitation App. 13.00–15.00 Wesley Harriott Designer Discovery 12.30–14.30 Mark Fast Designer Discovery Showrooms LAB Showrooms LAB 13.30–16.30 Aspinal of London See Invitation Presentation 13.30–15.30 RIXO SN/BN See Invitation Presentation 14.00 Emilia Wickstead See Invitation Catwalk 14.00 Richard Quinn* BFC Catwalk Show Space 14.30–16.30 Mother of Pearl ** SN/BN P / F See Invitation Presentation 14.30–16.30 Zandra Rhodes See Invitation Presentation 15.00 DAVID KOMA See Invitation Catwalk 16.00–18.00 UNDERAGE Designer Discovery 15.30–17.30 Edeline Lee BFC Presentation Showrooms LAB Show Space 18.00 On|Off Presents... BFC Catwalk 16.00 TOGA See Invitation Catwalk Show Space 17.00 Burberry M/W SN/BN See Invitation Catwalk 19.00–Late Chocolab x UNNY Club On|Off: See Invitation Event LFW Closing Party 17.30–19.30 FENGYI TAN Designer Discovery Showrooms LAB 18.30–19.30 Paula Knorr* BFC Presentation Show Space 19.00 Huishan Zhang See Invitation Catwalk Key 20.00 MM6 Maison Margiela See Invitation Catwalk M/W Menswear & Womenswear 20.30–22.00 APUJAN SS19 See Invitation Event 13 SN/BN See Now Buy Now 20.30–22.00 MARIEYAT Collection See Invitation Event P / F Positive Fashion IV Presentation * NEWGEN 20.30–Late Johny Dar X Blacks: Where The See Invitation Event ** BFC Fashion Trust Future Starts *** BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund

Schedule correct at time of print Ground Floor Floor plans Floor Surrey St E1 BFC Show Space Entrance

1 BFC Show Space

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3 LFW Bar 4 Nivea Recharge & Refresh Point E2

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Routes 1 To BFC Show Space from Strand To Designer Showrooms from BFC Show Space

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The Strand E1

Routes E1 BFC Show Space Entrance To BFC Show Space E2 Designer Showroom Entrance from The Strand 1 BFC Show Space To Designer Showrooms 2 Fast-track Registration from the BFC Show Space Ground 3 LFW Bar 4 Nivea Recharge & Refresh Point Toilets Floor Stairs Lower Floor 1 Floor -2

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2 B C D 3 4 Surrey St 4 A A 3 E3 Entrance from -1 Floor Designer Showrooms Accessories The Strand 1 DiscoveryLAB B C Millenery 2 &Finally Curated Showroom 17 E2 Designer Showroom Entrance Cloakroom E3 Entrance from -1 Floor Designer ShowroomsD Jewellery E2 Designer Showroom Entrance Designer Showrooms 3 Eithad Airways 1 Registration Toilets 1 DiscoveryLAB B Accessories 1 Registration A Ready-To-Wear NEWGEN 2 Nivea Recharge Stairs to -2 Floor 42 &FINALLYNivea Recharge Curated & Refresh PointC Millinery &Nivea Refresh Recharge Point & Refresh Point & BFC ShowCloakroom Space Showroom 2 D Jewellery Café/Workspace 33 BFCBFC Education Education Foundation Foundation 3 Etihad Airways Lavazza Café NEWGEN Stairs to -1 Floor 4 TONI&GUY X label.m 4 Nivea Recharge 4 TONI & GUY X label.m Stairs to -2 Floor & Refresh Point Café/Workspace Designer Showrooms Stairs to -1 Floor A Ready-To-Wear & BFC Show Space -1 Floor -2 Floor Dita Von Teese once said 'I advocate glamour. Every day. Every minute.' Jenny Packham, one of Dita’s most beloved designers, undoubtably shares her appreciation for the elegance of Jenny yesteryear – and the attendant fancy sparkling occasions. Q: Which references and sources of inspiration did Q: When people hear your name they’re most likely you always go back to in the process of creating to get a mental image of a gorgeous long embel- The Central Saint Martins alumni’s your new collection? lished dress. When and how did your love for the A: Every season I look to find new inspiration to evening dresses are easily recognisable luxurious and glamorous aspects of life start out? create something new. However, I love the eras by their aura of a Greek Goddess, A: I have always wanted to design for special moments of the 1930’s and 70’s. The silhouettes are both sublime choice of fabrics, carefully and was very influenced by cinematic fashion as a decadent and simple and can be reinterpreted child. I like statement dressing and I suppose once selected embellishments and into a contemporary style easily. I started designing glamorous dresses it became

a palette that meanders through a Packham ‘my thing’ and rather addictive. I aim to make a Q: This year the Jenny Packham brand is celebrating landscape of deep jewel-tones over woman feel confident and beguiling. to one full of delicate hues of Dom 30 years in existence. What are some of the major highlights of your career – and how will Pérignon champagnes and rich, Q: How would you describe your design process you celebrate this milestone? from start to finish? Any surprising elements you vanilla-based, desserts. A: I have had an incredible 30 years. I started in would like to mention? a small studio cutting and sewing the styles myself A: I very much enjoy the process of making a sketch Packham’s brand has been a staple and progressed to dressing some of the most to creating a style. The work that goes into a dress for the glitterati - the princes and iconic women of our age. I have so many great is intense and to make the garment a success each princesses of the world, and those memories, from the first-time Angelina Jolie process needs attention and creativity. However, stepped out in Jenny Packham to fitting Swarovski aspiring to move amongst them - if a style is laboured over too long I instinctively nipple tassels on Dita Von Teese and opening our throughout its 30 years existence. know it probably will not work and I have to be first flagship boutique in 2006. I’m sure there are the one to cancel the style from the collection Her bridal collections have also been more to come and in celebration of this milestone which can be disappointing to the team. Good the cherry on top of the ice for many year, I am delighted to be returning to LFW this styles come together easily. a fairytale-like wedding. season and presenting our SS19 anniversary collection at our Mayfair Townhouse. The brand’s Resort 2019 collection Q: Throughout the years you’ve dressed some was a homage to another glamorous of the most famous and goddess-like women in the world. Who would you love to see in icon who never shied away from a Jenny Packman dress next? Appointments sequins and gowns: Elizabeth Taylor. A: It is such an honour to have dressed so many Sunday, 16th September As Packham preps for her special inspirational women over the years and I love 09.00–17.00 the collaborative process. I would love to dress 30th anniversary presentation during londonfashionweek.com/jennypackham LFW we asked her to reflect upon Florence Pugh. A young very talented British actress who I enjoy watching. Claire Foy is her past, her present, and how she another actress for who I would like to design defines elegance. a red-carpet dress. Text by Caroline Krager, Melkoghonning Kirkwood Nicholas 21 Nicholas Kirkwood, the designer who Q: How does it feel to be back home this season has us walking on pearls and never fails on the LFW schedule? to amaze us with his unconventional A: This is my first (catwalk) show, I’ve only ever use of materials and sculpted silhouettes, done static presentations before which have been in Paris, but I couldn’t imagine doing a returns to London Fashion Week after show anywhere other than London. a five-year sojourn at the Paris collections. Since establishing his business in 2005 Q: What does living and working in London mean he has opened a flagship store in Mayfair to you as a designer? and announced a long-term partnership A: It’s the most creative city in the world and such a source of inspiration from art to music to fashion. with LVMH. He has received numerous I love the unpolished fresh energy and the con- Show at 17.00 industry accolades, including stant challenging of the status quo that London has Sunday, 16th September BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund in in its DNA which, as a designer living in London, londonfashionweek.com/nicholaskirkwood 2013 and several Accessories Designer I naturally feed off. of the Year awards for his daring, Q: You have had us treading on jewels, teetering innovative designs which combine on sculpted Perspex and snuggling our toes craft with cutting-edge technology. in mohair, what can we expect next? His return to London sees his designs A: I am focusing quite a bit on unstructured uppers Q: Your designs have a daring architectural DNA which allow the leather or material to float step onto the catwalk for the first time but now your shoes seem more romantic and around the foot in a very light and organic way. with an event that promises to be textural, how do you see your æsthetic evolving? It’s quite difficult to explain in words but it creates A: My design DNA has always been to create that immersive and experiential. a certain lightness and highlights the characteristics

The AustralianThe by Text tension between femininity and architectural of the material in a similar way I imagine as it might graphic forms and that is still very prevalent in all in a dress. the collections. The collection is more compre-

Francesca Fearon, Francesca hensive than it was a few years ago. Sadly, many Q: Is being experimental with your materials of our wholesale partners have become far ‘safer’ and technology where you have the most fun in their selections and therefore the bolder more when designing? graphic and experimental pieces are not seen as A: Yes, for sure! New material technologies or ways much as before. This is why having a show is such to manipulate the materials and of course finding a great opportunity to remind people of those interesting and unexpected ways to use them is what more dynamic aspects in my approach to design is fun about experimenting. It doesn’t always work for which I was first noticed. but when it does it can be a wonderful moment. Throughout the last decade, having Q: This year for you has been full of celebration Q: You’ve achieved a clear, recognisable brand entirely your own. already surpassed many others following and reflection, your tenth year in business, what identity in this time – has there been anything Q: Where do you see/where would you like to the same path, designer Mary Katrantzou would you say has been your most significant that has challenged this or made it difficult? see the brand in another 10 years? has not only pushed boundaries with discovery about the brand to take forward into What would your advice be for young emerging A: As an image-led brand, I would love to explore new the next decade? designers in this current climate? fields outside ready-to-wear. I love jewellery design her abstract figuration, intricate graphic A: My work is about perception and perspective and A: My very first collection was mapped around the and I was brought up around interior design, so prints and bold textiles, she has con- channeling that through a visual language that is idea of trompe-l’oeil prints. That idea evolved into both are areas I would love to explore. It excites fidently solidified her brand identity my own. It is about filtering beauty through design thematic collections based on objects of beauty that me to think of the possibilities within the world and established a unique dialogue with and creating collections that are authentic, intel- we collect: perfume of design, while keeping the brand’s authenticity. her strong female following. Having ligent and allow women to stand out. My biggest bottles, interiors, objects discovery is meeting the women I design for and of Art, postage stamps Q: Supporting bodies such as the BFC of course already been the recipient of various understanding what drew them to my work and and more recently on provide valuable backing and guidance – How awards, including the BFC/ Vogue what feeling it evokes in them. That’s what defines more abstract ideas such has this bolstered your brand during the years Designer Fashion Fund and sponsorship a brand. The challenge is to always be in sync with as symbolism or nostal- and is there enough done to support young from the likes of NEWGEN, as well your times. As a designer, I think it’s natural to gia. It allowed me to build British designers today? as collaborations with Atelier Swarovski look towards the future while filtering the present a brand that is bold in A: London has definitely set the course for my career. through your lens. When I launched the brand in intent and empowers The incredible mentoring of Louise Wilson at and Adidas, Mary is going from strength 2008, the industry revolved around minimalism. women to showcase Central Saint Martins and the support of the BFC to strength. Now beginning a new I had to develop a confidence in my own conviction their aesthetic. Building and Caroline Rush, have shaped me as a designer decade in business, it is with excitement and create a unique narrative through my collections a brand based on the and an enterpreneur. Sarah Mower first discovered that we look at what’s next for the that went against current trends. Each time I got image as inspiration me at the CSM graduation show and without London-based creative. something right, I would grow a bit more, learning allowed me to create a very visual world that allowed her I probably would have never launched my not only about my company but also about myself me to challenge the boundaries of imagination and business. She saw something in me that made me as a creator. For the next decade, I want to continue what is desirable in fashion. It’s difficult to remain believe in myself. London is a unique place for exploring and innovating through my work and innovative and explore your bandwidth as a designer, being inspired and working as a creative. I would building on the dialogue I have with the women while always staying true to your brand DNA and have never had such support in another city and I design for. Our lives as women are constantly the responsibility you have towards your customers. I am lucky to have met incredible women, who evolving and fashion should always be part of that Having the confidence to trust your instincts is never have become my close friends and supporters evolution and enhance our confidence for all the easy, but in 10 years I’ve learnt just how important and who inspire me with their own achievements. diverse roles we occupy. it is to believe in yourself. You can not be everything Having been supported by NEWGEN and been for everyone at all times, so the best advice I was the recipient of the BFC/ Vogue Designer Fashion given is to have a laser sharp focus in what you do Fund, I received invaluable mentorship. London best and really nurture and evolve the talent that is is the perfect platform to launch your own brand and it’s great to see 10 years on from the day I launched my own, that the support is even stronger Mary Text by Chantal de Vignes, Hunger today and a new guard of designers is emerging, Show at 20.00 Saturday, 15th September londonfashionweek.com/marykatrantzou Katrantzou Since joining Mother of Pearl in 2006, Q: The issue of sustainability is at the forefront of Q: A recent personal venture saw you take an eco just four years after the brand was many design conversations recently, you won friendly direction with a bridal line, how much founded, Amy Powney has witnessed 2017 BFC/ Vogue Designer Fashion Fund does your personal life inspire your work and 25 first hand its journey and growth and prize and used this to steer the brand in a more do you feel this is the same for all designers? eco-friendly direction — Does moving into A: My job is my life in so many ways, so infinitely. now drives the brand in her role as this territory have an impact on the design and When you run a small company it all merges into Creative Director. Drawing on her production process? In what way? one, my home becomes adorned with florals that personal influences and experiences, A: It can and it can’t, it depends how you want to go you see in our collection, and it is filled with as alongside a desire to be environmentally about the process. You can simply opt out of your many sustainable attributes as possible which then considerate and carefully balancing usual fabrics and replace for a certified version infiltrate Mother of Pearl. The brand becomes or like me, you can go the full way. Either route an extension of my life. As a creative, I am always creativity and authenticity in an ever- is still a positive one! plotting and planning my next creative project changing social landscape, Amy has and they always intertwine. I think for designers For my journey, I flipped the whole process cemented the MOP identity as luxe and there will always be elements of cross over. around, beginning with geography. I wanted to accessible, with a wonderfully modern create a product that ticked every sustainable box Q: The brand started in 2002, you came on board and playful aesthetic. Now making further so customers didn’t have to question anything. in 2006. How do you think the brand has evolved moves into considered, sustainable design I started with locations and what territories create in terms of aesthetic and identity since joining? we get an insight into her world. the raw materials; what are the closest locations A: I did indeed, 12 years in total, but the first five years for spinning, weaving and finishing the garments. were very much me assisting in the studio before

Mother Mother I wanted to ensure that the product travelled the my creative path began. Slowly I was least amount of miles possible, as well as being made involved more under the best environmental and social conditions. and more in collections until around

six years ago where I became the I began with options of materials and manufacturing Director of Design and then more before I put pen to paper. Its the opposite way most recently Creative Director. of us use design. The brand has evolved a great deal, Q: Sustainability today can be considered trendy, naturally with different designers at the Text by what do you think is needed to move this from helm along the way, and then it found a trend to an industry wide movement? the feet it stands on today. We have had

Chantal de Vignes, A: I think a trend is positive if it promotes awareness, a more evolutionary approach to the which in turn pushes consumers to push brands. direction of the brand than others but Presentation at 14.30–16.30 Hopefully, once the momentum starts then brands today it has its identity solidified. Monday, 17th September will have to make changes. The ideal scenario londonfashionweek.com/motherofpearl would be if the momentum reaches governments to put trading standards in place in the textile industry so that brands have no choice but to adhere to certain standards.

Hunger of Pearl Growing up the name Chung was enough to evoke the image of a young woman with effortless style, a contagious 26 laugh and an aura that was and is just, well, Chung. Whatever she wore became iconic. The loafers, the chunky Miu Mius or those simple breton stripes Q: Tell us, you’ve been all over the world this Q: You’re a year into running your own label, – ok Coco Chanel did get there first, year, which city have you been most inspired what have you learnt about yourself ? but Alexa made it hers and we all by for SS19? A: That I’m more comfortable working as part of gleefully followed. It’s no new news A: Tokyo was amazing. We held one of our a team than being the traditional boss. Which that Chung is fluent in constructing presentations there and it’s just so frenetic of course is how companies run but if ever I’m her own wardrobe and thankfully, & also weirdly calm. The juxtaposition of tradition called upon to give a speech or do anything and technology really blew my hair back. Also, boss-like I haven’t yet grown into that role. for the rest us, she finally turned to I went to a cat cafe and it was bleak. ours. Founder & Creative Director of Q: Do you remember the early conversations ALEXACHUNG, her iconic identity Q: Favourite piece from the collection? about ALEXACHUNG? What were they A: I really love all the shoes in this collection. like and who were you discussing this new

that is dappled with memoirs from Chung the past, has been channeled into her Aside from them the crocheted coat or our chapter with? burgundy destination print. A: I was being weirdly secretive about it actually. own label. With a year of that new A lot of my life has been spent living up to other “Designer” title under her belt and a Q: You’re a close friend with Henry Holland people’s expectations or perceptions of me so handful of collection launches around — is there any healthy competition now?! I wanted to keep this private and unique. The the world (Tokyo & LA to name a A: Haha. Yes! No. Henry was here first and I’ve seen only people I told were those I was hoping to hire few), I caught up with the woman who the way he’s grown his business and has been so and my family. I just didn’t want external opinion dedicated to his craft for so many years. It’s very to cloud my instinct about what it should be. I was has gone from running the runway to impressive. All of our friends are very supportive looking forward to starting a British brand and I running our wardrobes… of one another’s endeavours. think my early desire was to make it a Mary Quant for the modern age. Something fun and necessary & of the moment. Clothes that make you feel more yourself.

Show at 11.00 Saturday, 15th September londonfashionweek.com/alexachung

Alexa Text by Fenn O’Meally In the face of a fast-changing, globally In line with the British Fashion On Friday, 14th September, the DiscoveryLAB connected fashion landscape, simply Council’s dedication to support will begin by showcasing emerging designer displaying clothes is no longer enough. emerging talent, the Discovery Emma Charles1 (09.30–11.30), whose eponymous brand launched in AW16. Today more than ever, the industry LAB offers an engaging insight into Inspired by the clean lines is having to embrace and cultivate the modern fashion zeitgeist with and craftsmanship of vintage a booming desire for innovation, a fresh, alternative take on the menswear tailoring which 29 experimentation and diversity expressed traditional catwalk. she combines with a youthful, feminine energy, Charles’ Discovery

by designers and customers alike. True LAB designs are colourful, elegant to this modern mantra, the London and luxurious pieces with an Fashion Week Designer Showrooms androgynous edge instantly will be showcasing over 120 British and exuding character and an international designers, mirroring the understated sex-appeal. kaleidoscopic patchwork of styles and identities that has come to define the diverse, cosmopolitan spirit of the capital. Spotlighting designers from Dubai, Finland and South Korea, among many On Saturday, 15th September, London-based others, the Showrooms aims to celebrate womenswear designer Clio Peppiatt2 (09.30–11.30) the enduring international appeal of will take centre stage, displaying her intricately London as a global fashion city. embroidered and embellished garments made for a confident, modern woman who doesn’t lack a Located at The Store X, 180 Strand, the tongue-in-cheek sense of humour. Showrooms continues downstairs with In the afternoon, Peppiatt will be followed by the DiscoveryLAB, a highly immersive, Italian-born designer Micol Ragni3 (16.30–18.30), interdisciplinary platform. Merging the whose atypical, complex and darkly extravagant worlds of fashion, tech, music, art and silhouettes have been worn by the likes of Björk, performance, the space is designed Rihanna and Erykah Badu, cementing her as one of to help the audience engage with the experimental, collaborative side of the creative industries and get familiar with a wide variety of exciting new brands through installations, performances, talks, workshops, pop-ups, digital screenings and exclusive launches.

Located on -2 Floor Located on -2 Floor Schedule DiscoveryLAB On Sunday, 16th September, Friday, 14th September Saturday, 15th September Beijing-based women’s ready- to-wear duo MARRKNULL4 Emma Charles Clio Peppiatt (09.30–11.30) will be displaying 09.30–11.30 09.30–11.30 their daring designs. Inspired by the contrasts and contradictions KALDA Micol Ragni of modern China, the duo’s striking pieces fuse innovative 17.00–19.00 16.30–18.30 stitching techniques and Chinese native clothing structures to give Sunday, 16th September a unique perspective on social culture while actively breaking MARRKNULL down gender binaries. 09.30–11.30 In the afternoon, the spotlight will be placed on British STEVE O designer and Rhode Island School of Design graduate STEVE O SMITH5 (13.30–15.30), SMITH whose brand, humourously titled SOS was 13.30–15.30 established in 2017. Smith’s sleek designs stylishly push the boundaries of gender Monday, 17th September and social convention whilst creating highly alluring silhouettes. Wesley Harriott 13.00–15.00 FENGYI TAN On Monday, 17th September, ASOS Fashion Discovery 17.30–19.30 winner and London College of Fashion graduate 30 Ricky Harriott6 (13.00–15.00) will present his sexy, Tuesday, 18th September modern and uniquely cartoon-esque garments inspired by strong femininity in all its forms, real Gènavant or fictional: from Rihanna to Kill Bill’s O-Ren Ishii. The young London designer established his brand, 09.00–11.00 Wesley Harriott, in 2017, and already counts SZA Mark Fast and Kylie Jenner among his fans. 12.30–14.30 FENGYI TAN 17.30–19.30 On Tuesday, September 18th UNDERAGE Gènavant 09.00–11.00 16.00–18.00 Mark Fast 12.30–14.30 UNDERAGE 16.00–18.00 See full schedule for more details Designer Showrooms Returning New At-One-Ment By Wanbing ACK, Aisso Huang3, BESFXXK, Showroom, 1014Lex,

Black Pr, DB Berdan, Hissa 2Wo+1Ne=2, 5 Haddad, Mashu, Sounder Alexandra Koumba, Wang, Vjera V, DAOU2, Celebrity Skin, Di Gaïa, Ellis Mhairi Cameron, Etty Leon, Maison

Frances Wadsworth Jones, 1 Faliakos, Alighieri, Alfeya Future British Supported Valrina5, Anne Karine 6 By Boden, Sykes London, 2 Thorbjørnsen, Art School , Elv Denim, Alistair James, Christinahjones, Colter, 3 Gayeon Lee, Georgia Hardinge, Davy J, Faustine Steinmetz, 6 Hopeful, Jarel Zhang, Kocca Fiorella Pratto, Gaenus, Showroom, J.Won, Gu_de, Iria Ashimine, Isosceles, Dew E Dew E, Laura Theiss, Juneyen, Kalda, Le Niné, Laurie Lee Leather, Lu Mei, M Woven By Martina

MARRKNULL, Maxine Shoes, Spetlova, Nelson Made, 7 Merve, Bayindir, Mimiamo, Nita Suri7, Livia Tang Rendl, 1 Myriamsos, Nabil Nayal , Roxanne First, 8 Rosantica, Siran, Stephen Sabry Marouf, Jones Millinery, Taylor Yates, 4 Skechers, The Season Hats, Vinti Uooya, Andrews, Wen Pan and Victoria Ragna, William Chambers Millinery 4 Wires8 Curated Accessories Showroom Curated Accessories &FINALLY Dubbed as the ‘encyclopedia 3 of accessories', &FINALLY founders, Anna Vitiello and Florrie Thomas have transported their online curated space into physical form at London Fashion Week September 2018. With a combined 12 years in the

industry former UK fashion 3 editors, Vitiello and Thomas, pooled their exhaustive know- ledge of fashion accessories

into the online platform for Image by Moeez Ali 1 2 industry experts and consumers alike. &FINALLY is now one Black & Brown London1 of the world’s leading online Pascale James destinations for luxury and 2 high street accessories, with an Tara Zadeh ever-growing social following, ZYNE3 collaborating with brands including Dior, Chanel, Net- a-Porter and Browns Fashion. Located on floor -2, The Store X, 180 Strand, &FINALLY’s expertly curated showroom showcases a selection of the most delicate, daring and in demand accessories brands available in London this season.

and-finally.co.uk Include Brands

&FINALLY Curated Accessories Showroom is open to all LFW press and buyers, Located on Floor -2, BFC Designer Showrooms, The Store X, 180 Strand NEWGEN

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Creativity — the intangibility of the word makes its wondrous results hard to explain and even harder to monitor. The fashion world, however, is blessed with many brilliant, sparkling minds, who have a keen audacity and a rare capacity to prove their creative stripes. The fashion designer is a figure to which creativity is inseparable to their life and work. Their role is one that must harness this abstract and unpredictable state of mind in order to satisfy and solve their constant quest for the spirited and the splendid, the new and exciting. The designer recipients of Lingerie, Alighieri and The Friday, 14th September NEWGEN, the internationally Season Hats; Supriya Lele and Richard Malone renowned designer support Matty Bovan on the womenswear scheme of the British Fashion front will be joining Richard 09.00 Council, know what creativity Malone, Paula Knorr, Richard Kiko Kostadinov is, and the power it can wield. Quinn and Halpern. 15.00 The recipient list of this What these NEWGEN designers accolade stretches across both prove season upon season is Matty Bovan menswear, womenswear and that their cultivation of innovation 18.00 accessories, the designers all has informed, inspired and vibrant dazzles that encompass shaped our creative landscape: Saturday, 15th September the future of fashion design we must continue to salute and Halpern and business. The NEWGEN support their strivings – it is our 15.00 scheme allows for young talent responsibility to the tastemakers to grow effectively through of tomorrow. Sunday, 16th September a combination of business Supriya Lele mentoring and showcasing support — both as important 14.00–15.30 as one another in order Monday, 17th September for exciting brands to become 39 successful businesses. Paula Knorr While the brands within 18.30–19.30 NEWGEN are young, these Tuesday, 18th September creative directors at the helm are intelligent, aware and buoyant Richard Quinn to a shifting economy. 14.00 Enlisted to the initiative’s ranks for the first time this September is a strong dissection of accesso- ries designers: ISOSCELES uesday y, a d s e Tu – September 26th Wednesday, 41 LONDON showROOMS provides a unique opportunity for emerging British designers to promote themselves outside of London. The BFC launched LONDON showROOMS in 2008, taking emerging talents to Paris during to sell in a showroom environment. The initiative was an instant

success and has grown season on season 2nd in promoting London’s brightest rising stars to a global audience.

Designers Include:

Alighieri October Edeline Lee Eudon Choi ISOSCELES Lingerie Luna Del Pinal Marta Jakubowski NABIL NAYAL PHOEBE ENGLISH Räthel & Wolf Richard Quinn Roberta Einer Sabry Marouf 2018 Supriya Lele Fashion East:

ART SCHOOL ASAI

New address 22 rue de la Roquette, 75011 Paris, France Fashion Fund Winner Molly Goddard

Photography by Jamie Stoker Finalists Finalists Fund Fashion Marques’Almeida Le Kilt Huishan Zhang 43 REJINA PYO DAVID KOMA WALES BONNER Supriya Lele The SeasonHats Richard Quinn Richard Malone PHOEBE ENGLISH Per Götesson Paula Knorr Paria/FARZANEH Nicholas Daley Matty Bovan Liam Hodges Kiko Kostadinov ISOSCELES Lingerie Halpern Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY BIANCA SAUNDERS Alighieri A-COLD-WALL* Newgen palmer//harding Pearl Mother of Marques’Almeida Aries Fashion Trust TEIJA REJINA PYO NABIL NAYAL

Publication design by Pentagram Editor Lauren Cunningham