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Rome Book Proof Corr 20.08.05 ROME 14 ��� ����� ������������� ��� �� �����’� 15 GETTING AROUND you observe the car braking. Ticket types It takes nerve but it works. BIT €1 Much of central Rome can be (biglietto integrato a tempo) covered on foot but travelling A timed ticket that can across the city will involve be used for 75 minutes the metro, bus or tram. Taxis from the first validation. are also an option. It is valid for only one Tickets metro journey and you can change lines Rome has an integrated in order to reach your system: tickets are valid for final destination. When metro, bus and tram journeys changing from bus to and are widely available at metro the ticket must be tobacconists, metro stations, USING THIS BOOK validated a second time on main bus stops, news kiosks entering the metro. and some bars. Look out for the ATAC symbol. You can BIG €4 The colours of the districts on this map correspond to also enquire even if there is (biglietto integrato giornaliero) chapters in the book. Use the coloured side-bar headings to no symbol displayed. If you A day ticket that can be find your way around. Each chapter has introductory pages know you are going to use used up to midnight on the with suggestions on what to visit. many tickets during your day of purchase. stay, try to purchase several Getting Around CIS €16 at the same time. (carta integrata settimanale) Rome is a frenetic, exciting city where cars and scooters Tickets have to be stamped A seven-day pass that hurtle around, honking at anything that happens to be in the when you start your journey, must be shown to the way. To the outsider, the aggressiveness of Roman drivers at the turnstiles on the metro ticket inspector on request. can appear dangerous. It does take some ge�ing used to and and in ticket machines on It does not have to be even crossing the street can be an ordeal for the beginner. the buses and trams. The fine stamped but you need to The best solution is to tag along with the locals until you are for not having a validated fill in details on the ticket confident enough to strike out alone, or wait to cross with a ticket is €52. Regular spot itself, including your name nun or a priest. Romans are respectful towards the clergy. checks are carried out and and the dates when the pass is to be used. Don’t rely on striped crossing zones because if you stand and no excuses are accepted. wait, no one will stop. Pedestrian crossings with lights are the Children up to ten years old safest bet all around. travel free if accompanied Tickets cannot be used on by an adult. There are no the tourist buses or the When you begin to feel more confident you can a�empt to discounts for senior citizens. direct service to Fiumicino cross as the Romans do: hold out your arm in the direction of Airport. ongoing traffic, be sure to make eye contact with the driver of the nearest approaching car and then boldly step forward as 16 17 This is the heart of Rome, an area densely packed with many of the city’s most famous sights. Bordered by the Tiber on before you strike out for the west and Via del Corso the Bernini fountains in on the east, this area is also nearby Piazza Navona. Stop known as Campo Marzio, a�er along the way to see the the temple dedicated to Mars Caravaggio paintings in that was located here in the San Luigi dei Francesi. 1st century. Michelangelo, Raphael, CENTRO STORICOWander through the narrow Titian and Rubens lived streets to find the Pantheon, and painted here. Their with a dome that is wider works can be seen in many than St Peter’s. Have a coffee museums and churches in in Piazza della Rotonda the area. The Pantheon • architectural marvel STORICOC E N T R O Piazza Navona • Bernini’s fountains Galleria Doria Pamphilj • Renaissance paintings San Luigi dei Francesi • Caravaggio’s masterpieces Ghetto Via Giulia • Roman Jewish food A quiet street with interesting Sant’Agostino antique shops. • stunning interior restaurants p.231 shopping p.259 Did you Campo de’Fiori nightlife p.235 know that..? Lively square with a daily The Pope’s market. ceremonial robes Caffè della Pace are made in a tiny Enjoy an aperitivo and watch shop behind the the world go by. Pantheon. 40 �������� 41 Caravaggio (1571-1610) and wild younger brother, recently exiled in Naples for consorting with criminals. Caravaggio worked at the studio Michelangelo Merisi, the artist known as Caravaggio, was for two years but le� a�er a dispute over painting styles, born on 29 September 1571 in Caravaggio – a small town one that engulfed Rome’s young artists. Painters began to near Milan. Caravaggio was the son of a household steward divide themselves into rival camps: those favouring the to Costanza Colonna, a member of one of Italy’s noble studied elegance of d’Arpino versus those embracing the families and the daughter of Marcantonio Colonna, a hero in earthy naturalism of Caravaggio. Poems insulting rival the Ba�le of Lepanto. Caravaggio’s father and grandfather both died of plague when he was six years old and Costanza assumed a lifelong interest in his welfare. CARAVAGGIO Caravaggio arrived in Rome in 1592 at the age of 20. Clement VIII (Aldobrandini) was the newly elected Pope. With a Jubilee year set for 1600, there were plenty of opportunities for ambitious young artists among the cardinals, princes and diplomats surrounding the papal court. Many artists found themselves a rich patron who would provide a studio and a residence, in addition to a regular supply of commissions. Costanza’s brother Cardinal Ascanio Colonna was close friends with Frederico Borromeo who, as head of the painters’ guild Accademia di San Luca, was able to grant Caravaggio the required guild membership. Caravaggio had a lavish residence in which to live, the Palazzo Colonna, but his station was modest: steward to Camilla Pere�i, a sister of the preceding pope and a resident in the palazzo. Caravaggio soon got a position in the studio of Antiveduto Grammatica, a Sienese artist who specialised in portraiture. Although he was only allowed to paint the flowers and fruits in the background, it was here that Caravaggio was able to meet many of Rome’s powerful elite as they sat for portraits. The relationship ended when Antiveduto began to copy his student. Artists of the day o�en imitated each other but Caravaggio would not tolerate this. Throughout his life he would become enraged if another painter a�empted to duplicate his style. In 1593 Caravaggio obtained another position in the studio of Giuseppe Cesari (d’Arpino) a popular Roman painter. He had befriended Bernardino, d’Arpino’s lead apprentice 56 ����������: ������� �� �� ������� 57 Colosseo (Colosseum) COLOSSEO Piazza del Colosseo 09.00-one hour before sunset 06 399 67700 last entrance 1 hour €8 (also valid for Palatine) before closing map 9, D2 English guided tours €3.50 GPS 41.88959, 12.49194 09.30, 10.15, 11.15, 12.30 summer only: 15.00, 16.15, 17.00 To fully appreciate what you are seeing, a guided tour is recommended. Tours in English occur frequently and also include the Palatine. There is no need to book in advance as this is more expensive and space is usually available. �� ����� �� � ���� ����� �� ��� ��������� ������ ������, ��� ���� ������ �� ��� �������� – ������� ��� ���� ��� ���� �����. Emperor Vespasian commissioned an Amphitheatrum Flavium in AD 72 on the site of Nero’s former palace – the Domus Aurea in Parco Oppio. He drained Nero’s lake and built a theatre for public games to disassociate himself from the hated tyrant and make himself popular amongst his citizens. But Vespasian didn’t live to see his vision completed. It was his son Titus who presided over 100 days of lavish inauguration games in AD 80. The oval-shaped building is 190.25 metres long, 157.5 metres wide and 50 metres high. The outer façade is comprised of four arcades of arches, one above the other, with the fourth storey filled in and framed. In ascending order the arches are decorated with Doric, Ionic and Corinthian columns. The exterior was once covered in blocks of travertine marble like the five remaining on the east side. A huge retractable awning, the velarium, was used to shade spectators from the sun. Numbers are carved over the arches at street level, indicating separate entrances for different seating areas. With the rise of Christianity and the decline of Roman paganism, the Colosseum fell into ruin. Walls and supporting arches collapsed in the earthquake of 1349 and what remained was stripped for use in rebuilding the city. Pope Sixtus V (Pere�i) considered demolishing the Colosseum when he rebuilt Rome for the pilgrims. Instead 102 103 The smallest country in the world, the Vatican is a pilgrimage site for the world’s Catholics. Its galleries house some of mankind’s greatest art treasures. VAT I C A N O There’s a lot to see – don’t The huge armoury once try and visit everything required to protect the in one day. A suggested popes is on display in Castel itinerary would be St Peter’s Sant’Angelo. A secure on one day and the Vatican passage – used in times of Museums on another. If danger – connects the castle time is short, go to the to the Vatican palace. galleries first; they always close before St Peter’s. St Peter’s Summer visitors may find centre of the Catholic faith VATICANO a�ernoons a quieter time to • Michelangelo’s Pietà see the museums.
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