SHINING IN THE ROUGH BRIGHT BUBBA WATSON MAY THE MEN’S HAVE WON THE MASTERS, UNDERWEAR MARKET BUT HIS DRESS SENSE IS THRIVING, DRIVEN NEEDS SOME WORK. BY BOLD COLORS. PAGE MW8 WWDPAGE MW1

THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2012 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

Bubblicious PARIS — Full of delicate intricacies, Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons collections are always worthy of closer inspection. Enter the Musée Galliera’s “White Drama” exhibit, a show that features Kawakubo’s entire spring 2012 MAITRE collection — with each of the 33 looks encased in clear plastic bubbles, per the designer’s request. Opening on

Friday, the exhibition runs in tandem with “Cristóbal Balenciaga: Collectionneur de Modes.” For more, see page 4. DOMINIQUE BY PHOTO China’s E-commerce Upswing PLUM JOB ing to the study, titled “China’s Digital By LARA FARRAR Generations 3.0: The Online Empire.” Bergdorf’s Names Schulman President By around that time, the report projects SHANGHAI — Brands will have no China will become the largest online business for 20 years and although he choice but to have an e-commerce pres- retail market globally, with nearly 10 By DAVID MOIN has been on the wholesale side, he has ence in China or face being left out of percent of retail sales occurring online. worked with department stores his what will soon become the largest on- China already has more online shop- NEW YORK — For Joshua Schulman, be- whole career and gained an intimate line retail market in the world, accord- pers than the U.S., the study said. By coming president of Bergdorf Goodman knowledge of what it takes for a large ing to a Boston Consulting Group study 2015, the country will have 700 million after tackling top jobs at Jimmy Choo and store to work,” said Jim Gold, president released Thursday. Internet users, which is 200 million the Gucci Group is not such a stretch. of specialty retail for the Neiman Marcus An expanding population of Internet more than the country has now and Though he’s never run a department Group, which operates Bergdorf ’s. users combined with more wide- twice the online population of Japan store before, Schulman told WWD, “I’ve Domenico De Sole, former chairman spread consumer acceptance of buy- and the U.S. combined. been a vendor of Bergdorf Goodman and of Tom Ford International and former ing products online will spur China’s Online buying and selling is the a vendor of the Neiman Marcus Group president and ceo of Gucci Group, de- e-commerce market to triple in size to second fastest growing activity on the in my career over the last 20 years. I’ve scribed Schulman as “a very capable and more than $360 billion by 2015, accord- SEE PAGE 6 always had an enormous appreciation intelligent merchant who has proven to for the culture of Bergdorf Goodman and be a strong ceo. He understands luxury. the Neiman Marcus Group and for their He expanded ladies ready-to-wear at focus on excellence in luxury retail.” Gucci and then at Yves Saint Laurent Schulman, formerly Jimmy Choo’s did an excellent job. He’s a very thought- chief executive officer and earlier, execu- ful boss and always promoting his own tive vice president at the Gucci Group, people” and prone to crediting his team. was already on the scene at Bergdorf ’s “He says ‘we’ not ‘I,’” De Sole noted. on Wednesday, even though he doesn’t of- Schulman was also once president of ficially start until May 7. “My first order Kenneth Cole New York, Gap Inc.’s man- of business at Bergdorf ’s is really to get aging director of international strategic al- to know the team and the business,” he liances, and at Gucci, oversaw worldwide said. “Although I’ve been a vendor, I’m not merchandising and wholesale for Yves coming in with any preconceived notions. Saint Laurent, and served as worldwide I will be working on a new strategic plan.” director of Gucci women’s ready-to-wear. “Josh has been around the luxury SEE PAGE 6

2 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2012 WWD.COM Commerce Report·· Puts Focus on IP THE BRIEFING BOX Agency, which could bring cases against countries IN TODAY’S WWD BY KRISTI ELLIS where counterfeiting and digital piracy is ram- pant, according to Deputy Commerce Secretary WASHINGTON — Outlining the importance of in- Rebecca Blank. A view of the Balenciaga exhibition. tellectual property, or IP, protections, the Obama The segments of the fashion industry were administration released a report on Wednesday among a group of 75 intellectual property-intensive that also emphasized the job and export contribu- industries reviewed by Commerce in the report. tions made by clothing stores, cosmetics companies It divided intellectual property into three catego- and apparel and textile manufacturers, and ways ries: trademarks, patents and copyrights. In the to protect their trademarks entire trademark category, and other rights. the area with the highest “This first-of-its-kind re- concentration of fashion in- port shows that IP-intensive This first-of-its-kind dustry brands and retailers, industries have a direct and employment was six times significant impact on our as high as that of patent- nation’s economy and the report shows that IP- intensive industries, and MAITRE creation of American jobs,” stood at 22.6 million of the said Commerce Secretary intensive industries 40 million across all indus-

John Bryson. “When tries in 2010, according to DOMINIQUE Americans know that their have a direct and the report. BY ideas will be protected, The report said clothing PHOTO they have greater incen- significant impact on stores employed 1.11 mil- tive to pursue advances and lion people in 2010, while Becoming president of Bergdorf Goodman after tackling technologies that help keep the soap, cleaning and toi- top jobs at Jimmy Choo and the Gucci Group is not such us competitive, and our our nation’s economy letries industry employed a stretch for Joshua Schulman. PAGE 1 businesses have the con- 104,200 and footwear manu- fidence they need to hire and the creation of facturing employed 13,500. Brands will have no choice but to have an e-commerce more workers. That is why Highlighting the signifi- presence in China or face being left out of what will this administration’s efforts American jobs. cance of protecting fashion become the largest online retail market in the world, to protect intellectual prop- industry trademarks, the according to a Boston Consulting Group study. PAGE 1 erty, and modernize the pat- — COMMERCE SECRETARY report ranked the number ent and trademark system, of trademark registrations JOHN BRYSON Outlining the importance of intellectual property are so crucial to a 21st cen- by class. It showed that tury economy.” clothing stores filed 91,923 protections, the Obama administration released a report on The report, which found trademark registrations, or Wednesday that emphasized ways to protect trademarks PAGE 2 that “intellectual property-intensive industries” 5.1 percent of all such registrations, and ranked and other rights. support at least 40 million jobs and contribute seventh among 49 trademark classes from 2000 more than $5 trillion, or 34.8 percent, of U.S. gross to 2009. Cosmetics and “cleaning preparations” Bankrupt Connaught Group has been sold in a domestic product, was compiled by Commerce and companies filed for 51,940 trademarks, represent- bankruptcy court auction as a going concern to a joint the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office. In addition, ing 2.9 percent of the total, and ranked 10th, while venture called Forty-Three Eighty Co., whose winning bid merchandise exports of IP-intensive industries to- jewelry companies ranked 26th and filed for 21,422 is valued at more than $22 million. PAGE 4 taled $775 billion in 2010, accounting for 60.7 per- trademark registrations, or 1.2 percent of the total. cent of total U.S. merchandise exports. Leather goods companies, which ranked 27th, filed The Musée Galliera, as part of its ongoing series of off- The report will be used as a tool to help press 20,843 trademark registrations, or 1.2 percent of site exhibitions, is exhibiting the collections of Comme for intellectual protections in trade negotiations the total, and fabric companies, ranking 34th, filed des Garçons and Balenciaga. PAGE 4 and provide supporting data for the adminis- for 12,233·· trademark registrations, or 0.7 percent tration’s new International Trade Enforcement of the total. Rag & Bone’s uptown flagship — the label’s sixth store in Manhattan, and ninth overall — officially opens Saturday. PAGE 5

Marc Fisher Testimony Wraps Up Trinity Limited, the Hong Kong-based retailer of luxury men’s wear brands and part of the Li & Fung Group, said Wednesday it has agreed to purchase the British men’s stitch” copies of its rivals’ shoes. PAGE MW1 By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD “We do reference and use vintage designs quite tailoring label Gieves & Hawkes.

a bit in our industry,” Fisher said, adding that in NEW YORK — Marc Fisher spent three more hours certain cases, the allegedly infringing shoes were The surging demand for fashion, color and performance Wednesday rebutting allegations that his company derived from looks Fisher had produced long before. is creating a new level of sex appeal in the men’s infringed on Gucci’s trademarks when designing “So, Jimmy Choo knocked you off and then you underwear arena. PAGE MW8 shoes for Guess Inc. knocked Jimmy Choo off?” Ederer said sarcastically. The trial, which began two weeks ago in federal Fisher explained that over a “50-year period ON WWD.COM court here, pits Gucci against Guess and its exclu- of time,” many shoes turn out to be “tremendous- sive licensee for footwear, Marc Fisher Footwear. ly similar.” Gucci, which is seeking $221 million in damages, al- Earlier in the day, Ederer had unveiled a bind- FASHION: Comme des Garçons and Balenciaga will be leges that the defendants infringed on its diamond- er — which looked to be just a few inches shy of a side by side in exhibitions debuting at Les Docks — a new shaped logoed pattern, square “G” design and tri- foot — filled with photographs taken in Marc Fisher design and cultural center on the eastern fringes of Paris. striped motif. Footwear’s library of Gucci shoes. The binder of For more photos, see WWD.com/fashion-news. Fisher, who wrapped up his testimony photos, which was handed over by Fisher during Wednesday, had until this point remained unemo- discovery, was filled with five years’ worth of Gucci tional. But when his lawyer, Darren Saunders shoes that it used for inspiration for its footwear. CORRECTION of Manatt, Phelps & Even though Fisher The projected growth of the U.S. apparel industry is about Phillips LLP, recounted explained that the pho- 2 percent annually. The number was incorrect in a Fashion Gucci’s accusation that tos represented only a Scoop on page 11, Wednesday. the defendants devised fraction of the shoes it a “massive scheme” to has in its library, which knock-off its designs, he is stocked with many dif- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS choked up. $221M ferent brands for “ref- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. DAMAGES BEING SOUGHT BY GUCCI AT TRIAL. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. “I don’t understand erence,” Ederer moved COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. the allegation,” the chief forward with a report he VOLUME 203, NO. 75. THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, executive officer said, had on Fisher’s Gucci March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine his voice quavering as he explained that such a purchases over the last six to seven years. Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, scheme would “jeopardize” his reputation, not to In that period, the ceo rang up $75,000 in Gucci Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at mention his family’s reputation. merchandise, which didn’t faze Fisher, but sur- New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses “My family has been making shoes in this coun- prised the judge. to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S try probably longer than Guess exists,” he said, not- “I never saw a $2,000 pair of shoes. What do they WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, ing that the number of shoes Gucci claims infringed look like?” Judge Shira Scheindlin said, pointing to call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent on its marks represent just 3 percent of all shoes a higher-priced item. label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless Marc Fisher Footwear made in a four-year period. Ederer, who remarked that the item was a dress we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on Fisher, whose father founded Nine West in 1978, and not shoes, ended his examination with a bang. all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all launched his own company in 2005. Guess was the “You find this case ridiculous, don’t you Mr. editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints brand’s first big footwear license. Within the first Fisher?” the lawyer said, after the ceo complained of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at few years of its inception, the footwear vendor had that he believed Gucci should have sent a cease- www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that a string of cease-and-desist letters sent by rivals and-desist letter before filing a lawsuit. we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at like Coach Inc., Adidas, Yves Saint Laurent and “I don’t think anything that takes this much time P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED Jimmy Choo, alleging trademark infringement. and money out of my life is ridiculous,” Fisher said. ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER Earlier in the day, Gucci attorney Louis Ederer “Gucci should have written me a letter. That’s what UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR of Arnold & Porter LLP brought this to light, call- should have happened.” DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A ing the Guess shoes made by Marc Fisher “stitch for The trial is set to wrap up before April 19. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Agriculture Innovations Sustainability Software Trends Advertising Data

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cottonlifestylemonitor.com AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. Service Marks/Trademarks of Cotton Incorporated. © 2012 Cotton Incorporated. 4 WwD THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2012 Cartier Shows Heritage

By Marc Karimzadeh

NEW YORK — As the Sixties drew to a close, Cartier made headlines with two seminal moments: the $1 million-plus sale of a 69.42-carat, pear-shaped diamond to Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, and the launch of the Love bracelet created A “Juste un by in-house designer Aldo Cipullo. clou” white Together, they set the tone for the gold ring. Seventies at Cartier. That decade is now the subject of “Cartier & Aldo Cipullo: New York City in the ’70s,” an exhibition at the jeweler’s Fifth Avenue mansion here, which opens to the public Friday. The ex- hibition is timed with the relaunch of the “Juste un clou”

MAITRE collection of rings and bracelets, which has its origins in a nail bracelet designed by Cipullo in the 1970s. Pierre Rainero, director of image, heritage and

DOMINIQUE style for Cartier International, said the time was

Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons chose to BY right to highlight this part of the jewelry house’s his- display her “White Drama” collection in bubbles. tory. “Most people, when they know about Cartier,

PHOTOS know about the beginning of the 20th century, the Twenties and the Thirties, and about the animal inspirations with the panther,” Rainero Academics Meets Drama in Paris Expos said. “But that period in the Seventies is not as known as the other periods of Given carte blanche to exhibit her bounty donated to Galliera, shown creation of Cartier.” By MILES SOCHA 33 looks in a rectangular, industrial for the first time, and 40 years after Cartier executives curated and space, Kawakubo chose to encase the acclaimed couturier’s death. It created the show with Stefan PARIS — 13,846. her dresses — styled exactly like the includes about 40 couture coats and Beckman. Located on the store’s According to a tally by fashion runway — in clear plastic bubbles. dresses designed by Balenciaga from second floor, the exhibition aims curator Olivier Saillard, that’s how “I was interested to put the 1937 to 1968, along with the costumes, to re-create the energy of the de- Cartier many outfits came down internation- clothes of this collection in a dif- fabrics and books he collected. cade in New York viewed through / tion

al runways for the spring season. ferent environment to the show. He, like Kawakubo, possessed the jeweler’s lens, with some 40 c e

Standing out amid this “overabun- I thought about making a second an “independent spirit,” Saillard Cartier’s yellow and jewelry pieces as well as draw- ll Co dance” of fashions was the “White space within the existing as it was said, showing off the famous slop- rose gold pin with ings, articles and scrapbooks from Drama” collection by Rei Kawakubo a new space of the city of Paris,” ing “Darth Vader” hat from 1967 coral, circa 1970. Cipullo, who died in 1984. There

she told WWD. “I would be happy if that was actually inspired by what Cartier of Comme des Garçons, which are also videos and a wall of touch / sh

Saillard described as a beacon of people felt that ‘White Drama’ has Spanish fisherman wore to keep screens, which allows viewers to play with pictures, ac- l e

“poetry” and pure bravado “outside become even more dramatic.” rain off their necks. cess information about each of the images and articles W ck of commercial conventions.” on specific objects and photos of clients wearing them. i N

Which is why Saillard, director Cartier’s jewelry from that period, Rainero said, “was by

of the Musée Galliera, chose to ex- very relevant to the way of life of the people.” pin

hibit the collection in its entirety Tonight, the jeweler will celebrate the exhibition, ; as part of the museum’s ongoing which will close May 8, at the store, with Bernard series of off-site exhibitions, pend- Fornas, the president and chief executive officer of Cartier ing completion of its renovation in Cartier International, in town for the occasion. The ck/ very 2013. To his knowledge, it’s the first after party, at 30 Renwick Street, marks “Juste un l u

time a museum has done so with a clou,” which translates into “just a nail” and fea- W

fashion designer. tures pieces that resemble nails with heads bent ent c

“It is hard to pick one, two or into bracelets and rings. Available in 18-karat yel- in V by three pieces from a collection that low, pink and white gold and, in some cases, set with is practically a manifesto,” Saillard diamonds, the line is priced from $2,175 for a rose or photo enthused. “All of it is beautiful.” yellow gold ring to $34,650 for a large-size bracelet in g in

Twinned with the Kawakubo rose or yellow gold. R expo at Les Docks — a new design and cultural center on the eastern fringes of Paris — is “Cristóbal Balenciaga: Collectionneur de Connaught Sold in Auction Modes,” documenting the col- lecting habits of another fashion By Vicki M. Young great, and how treasures from the 18th and 19th centuries influenced Bankrupt Connaught Group has been sold in his designs. Both exhibitions a bankruptcy court auction as a going concern to a open to the public Friday and run joint venture called Forty-Three Eighty Co., whose through Oct. 7. Clothes and artifacts in the Balenciaga show are displayed as they are stored winning bid is valued at more than $22 million. in a museum’s reserves. The joint venture is comprised of Tom James Co., a Saillard said giving such proxim- Juxtaposed against histor- men’s wear custom suit manufacturer, and Hong Kong- ity to the clothes reveals intricacies ic costumes, the modernity of based Royal Spirit Group, Connaught’s largest vendor. impossible to divine from clicking Balenciaga’s designs is striking. The The transaction represents the first foray into through images on the Internet. To extravagant froth of an evening coat women’s wear for Tom James. Royal Spirit was the wit: Small sequins glisten on a deli- festooned with black velvet ribbons primary manufacturer for Connaught’s Etcetera con- cate lace top, and the fabric roses and lace, circa 1900, was distilled temporary line. trapped in tulle sacks on a bubble into a tea dress in broderie anglaise According to Michael O’Hara, founder and chief skirt are not, in fact, all white, but that could be worn today, even executive officer of Consensus Advisors, Connaught’s blushing peach and lemon yellow. though it was designed in 1939. financial consultant, the bid is comprised of $20 mil- Adrian Joffe, chief executive Balenciaga’s dense monochromatic lion in cash, $1 million in cash to be left with the officer of Comme des Garçons embroideries and dramatic volumes bankrupt estate, plus $1 million for other items, such International and Kawakubo’s echo some of what’s seen next door as lease assumptions. husband, said that the collection — although the sleeves of the Spanish “It is unclear at this point what the return will be to — meant to express “the happy designer’s monastic evening coat, in- unsecured creditors,” O’Hara said, although he empha- and sad things that happen in life spired by liturgical garments, do not sized that the current expectation is that there will be through the medium of white” — graze the floor like Kawakubo’s. a return to the unsecured creditors in the bankruptcy. has received “more than usual press Saillard noted Galleria would Connaught, founded in 1982 by William Rondina, interest, and it’s been a great season stage three more off-site exhibitions filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy court protection on in the stores so far, too. — including one devoted to couture Feb. 9 in Manhattan. It sold three distinct collec- “Most of the runway pieces were at city hall here, and three perfor- tions: Carlisle, Per Se and Etcetera. Each line is sold sold and produced, albeit not in mance works starring Tilda Swinton four times a year via 1,300 independent sales consul- great numbers,” he noted. — before it reopens on the Avenue tants through trunk shows. The Balenciaga exhibition next Pierre 1er de Serbie, likely with a The firm at its height hit $150 million in volume door, underwritten by Balenciaga show devoted to Azzedine Alaïa. in 2007, but that had fallen to $108 million in 2010, and its parent PPR, has a more aca- Besides temporary exhibitions, according to court papers. Connaught has posted op- demic feel, the clothes and artifacts Les Docks — billed as a new desti- erating losses since 2008. displayed in industrial shelving and nation for fashion and design — is The joint venture has assumed the lease for the The Balenciaga exhibition mingles drawers, similar to how museums a mixed-use facility incorporating firm’s headquarters at 55th Street and Ninth Ave., couture dresses by the Spanish designer actually store their reserves. a fashion school, boutiques, cafes suggesting that its operations will continue at its and historical costumes he collected. In fact, the exhibition displays a and nightclubs. present location.

w12a004a;7.indd 4 4/11/12 7:43 PM 04112012194410 WwD THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2012 5 WWD.COM Rag & Bone Opens on Madison that deal fell through and Neville By Jessica Iredale and Wainwright seized the opportu- Inside the nity. For the most part, they gutted new Rag & “Look at our flag. I hope Ralph the place, minus a cement-reinforced Bone store. can see it from his store down there,” teller’s desk on the first floor that now said Rag & Bone designer David serves as the cash wrap, and the walk- Neville Wednesday morning, standing in iron vault on the lower level, which outside his new Madison Avenue bou- will be used for purely decorative ef- tique at 73rd Street, just a block away fect among the women’s fitting rooms. from the gold standard of uptown retail, “We don’t want anyone getting locked Ralph Lauren’s Rhinelander Mansion. in there,” said Neville. When Rag & Bone’s uptown flag- Renovations for such a vast space ship — the label’s sixth store in are being completed in phases, be- Manhattan, and ninth overall — of- ginning with the ground floor and the ficially opens Saturday, it will be a lower level, which will be devoted to proud moment for Neville and his women’s, accessories and dressing design partner Marcus Wainwright. rooms. “The challenge for the moment “Madison Avenue is something you is getting open, because we’re pay- hear about when you don’t even know ing,” said Neville. The second floor New York,” said Neville. currently houses the stockroom, but will become a dedi- cated men’s depart- ment this summer. Until then, a small selection of men’s merchandise will be displayed on the ground floor. Crown moldings, hardwood floors, brass fixtures and black lacquer paint are key to the Rag & Bone aesthetic, and here it will be accented by velvet furnishings and cur- tains. The interiors are designed in- The flagship is housed in a former Chase bank. house with Neville and Wainwright at The building itself, 909 Madison, the helm. Still to come is an old-fash- is impressive real estate. At 9,000 ioned elevator that will be operated square feet, the four-story red brick by a bellman. Federal-style town house is three Founded in 2002, Rag & Bone times the size of any of Rag & Bone’s launched men’s in spring 2004, with other stores, which include New York a full women’s collection by fall 2005 outposts in the West Village, SoHo, and accessories in 2007. Andrew NoLIta and the Upper West Side, as Rosen took a stake in the contempo- well as locales in Boston, Washington, rary label in 2006 and fostered a re- D.C., and Tokyo, with a London store tail growth strategy. “We’ve dreamed slated to open this summer. Neville about [Madison],” said Neville. had his eye on the Madison spot, “Actually being able to make the aquino

which was previously home to a Chase economics of it happen is something John

bank until about 18 months ago. When we’ve been trying to build our com- by it initially came on the market, a big pany toward. We’re lucky enough to

brand immediately swooped in, but make this step now.” PhotoS

LF Asia, U.S. Polo Assn. Ink Deal Bonus Pool Less Deep at Warnaco NEW YORK — LF Asia, a “U.S. Polo Assn. is an in- subsidiary of Li & Fung Ltd., ternationally recognized with Securities and Exchange with the loss of the European ck has become the master li- brand with a unique heritage By ARNOLD J. KARR Commission guidelines, these Calvin Klein bridge line resulted censee for the U.S. Polo Assn. dating to 1890, as well as a awards aren’t necessarily real- in a $6.7 million loss on a 3.9 per- brand in China. strong consumer appeal,” Cash bonuses for the top ex- ized by the executives cited, be- cent increase in revenue. That cut Under the agreement, LF said Jason Rabin, president ecutives of The Warnaco Group cause of fluctuating stock prices into its full-year earnings, which, Asia will source U.S. Polo of LF Asia. “We believe this Inc. last year declined from their and vesting schedules. on the basis of generally accept- Assn.-branded apparel and ac- is a tremendous opportunity 2010 levels as the firm failed to Helen McCluskey, who suc- ed accounting principles, tallied cessories for the Chinese mar- to bring the authentic style of meet earnings targets. ceeded Gromek as president and $3.01 a diluted share while reve- ket, and will also partner with polo to the Chinese market Joe Gromek, who retired as ceo after serving as chief operat- nues grew 9.5 percent to $2.51 bil- select retailers to bring the through our partnership with president and chief executive of- ing officer last year, saw her overall lion. In its proxy, Warnaco noted product to Chinese consumers. the USPA Properties team.” ficer of the firm on Feb. 1, was the compensation decline 38.9 percent that the company “did not meet David Cummings, president Jim Scully, vice president only one of the five named execu- to $3.9 million from $6.5 million in its target for incentive compensa- and chief executive officer of of licensing for U.S. Polo tive officers covered in the com- 2010. Her salary rose 5.6 percent tion” and its executives were eli- USPA Properties, which owns Assn., told WWD that the pany’s definitive proxy to register to $900,000 from $852,000 in 2010, gible for 74 percent of their estab- the U.S. Polo Assn. brand, said, deal will span all product an increase in overall compensa- but her cash bonus fell 52.2 per- lished target bonuses. In the prior “Li & Fung’s unrivaled design categories in apparel and tion last year, landing at $10 mil- cent to $666,000 from $1.4 million. two years, Warnaco “exceeded and development expertise related accessories, such as lion, 22.9 percent above his 2010 Additionally, the sum of her stock maximum thresholds” for bonus- will build on and accelerate footwear, handbags and small pay package. His salary rose 4.4 and option awards fell 45.3 percent es, and executives were compen- the impressive results we have leather goods. percent to $1.2 million from $1.1 to $2.2 million from $4.1 million. sated at peak levels. achieved in Asia over the last USPA Properties has li- million, while his cash bonus, The Warnaco proxy, filed with Total compensation for few years. As we continue to censees throughout North, classified as “nonequity incentive the SEC on Wednesday, said that Lawrence Rutkowski, executive rapidly expand our interna- Central and South America, as plan compensation,” dropped 58.7 McCluskey’s salary as ceo will be vice president and chief finan- tional operations, we believe well as Asia, Europe, Russia percent to $1.3 million from $3.2 $1 million and that she’ll be eli- cial officer, dropped 24.6 percent LF Asia’s leadership in this and the Middle East. The mer- million for the prior year. gible for an annual target bonus to $1.9 million, while sportswear critical market will make a chandise is available in more Gromek’s stock and option opportunity of $1.1 million, in ad- group president Frank Tworecke significant difference.” than 130 countries. awards doubled to $6.8 million, dition to a supplemental award saw his total pay drop 8.9 percent For more than a decade, He said the U.S. Polo Assn. from $3.4 million, based on per- equal to 10 percent of her total to $3.1 million. Dwight Meyer, U.S. Polo Assn. merchandise collection, designed in New formance considerations that cash compensation for the prior president of global sourcing, dis- has been available in China. York, is primarily classic included years prior to 2011. fiscal year. tribution and logistics, earned The company’s agreement with American sportswear, geared Although recorded at “grant Warnaco ended fiscal 2011 on a $2.5 million, down 18.2 percent Bestill International Co. termi- to women, men and children. date fair value” to comply down note, as charges associated from 2010. nated in December. — Lisa Lockwood

w12a005a;8.indd 2 4/11/12 7:12 PM 04112012191322 6 WwD thursday, april 12, 2012 Bergdorf Goodman Taps Schulman China Internet Usage {Continued from page one} The hiring of Schulman At Bergdorf’s, Schulman could be read as another sign To See Rapid Growth will report to Gold, who two that the company is position- years ago was president of ing itself to go public, since {Continued from page one} grew up on the Internet is Bergdorf ’s until being pro- investors like to see strong Internet in China after micro- quite different.” moted to his current position management teams. Gold blogging, the study said. In 2008, the average age in Dallas. The Bergdorf ’s would not comment on the “Companies cannot have of Chinese “netizens,” as the presidency has been vacant possibility of going public but a major presence in China country’s Internet users are since, though Gold has been did say, “Organizations are without having an online called, was 25. Last year, the supervising the store from very fragile. It doesn’t take presence, not only to gener- average age was 29. Dallas. With Schulman’s ap- much to destabilize a busi- ate sales but also to engage The study also found that Choo

pointment, Bergdorf ’s reverts y ness.” Recruiting Schulman with customers where they seniors, which are defined as to its prior management struc- “fortifies” the team and “adds spend so much time,” the re- individuals age 51 and older, Jimm ture, which NMG has now a lot of value to this brand. port said. are also logging more hours for

learned is better for business. s We are focused for now on What is remarkable about online. This segment will e g

The switch back also raises a doing everything we can do to Chinese online shopping be- grow by 22 percent annually m questions about what’s on tap I make this business as strong havior is a dramatic shift in between 2011 and 2015, mak-

for Bergdorf ’s. as it can be.” the types of products they ing it the fastest growing seg- /Getty

Through its main women’s s Gold also explained why prefer to purchase on the ment of Internet users. store and the men’s wear NMG decided to reinsti- Internet. While only a few Another overlooked seg- annex, which are on opposite tute the president’s post at years ago the top three e-com- ment of Chinese netizens are sides of Fifth Avenue between Szwajko Bergdorf’s. “When I became merce categories were books, those living in rural areas.

57th and 58th Streets, as Mat president of specialty retail, digital cards and flowers, the The rural market has 26 per-

Joshua by well as through its Web site, Schulman ’’ I assumed responsibility for main goods sold online are cent of Internet users who Bergdorf ’s currently gener- both Neiman Marcus and now apparel, accessories and log 22 percent of the aggre- Photo ates about $600 million in Bergdorf Goodman. I relocat- consumer electronics, accord- gate 1.9 billion hours a day annual volume. That’s compa- ed to Dallas and left behind a ing to Yvonne Zhou, an author Chinese spent online in 2011. rable to the revenues generated by the Saks Fifth very talented, very tenured senior team to run the of the BCG study. The rural market “has not re- Avenue and Bloomingdale’s New York flagships, day-to-day operations at Bergdorf Goodman and This means that for compa- ceived the same attention as which have far greater square footage and gener- there were advantages to having me over both. We nies selling such products on urban and youth segments,” ally less expensive merchandise. opened lines of communication between both di- the Mainland it is of “top ur- according to the study, which Given Bergdorf ’s already impressive produc- visions and shared best practices. gency” to make sure they are explained that this segment tivity, it’s always challenging to bring it to the next “But as time progressed it became apparent also have a presence online, level of growth, though the team has been aggres- that this is a very large organization that needed Zhou said. “The consumer has sive in social media, omni-channel programs, en- a leader that can be on the ground, day-in, day-out switched. The trend is clear,” hancing in-store designer presentations and spe- and not just come to town on a monthly basis. In she said. cial events. It’s cooking up a big celebration for its order to sustain our growth and take the business Another key finding of the 111th anniversary this fall. to the next level we felt we needed someone based study is that Chinese Internet 700M There’s added pressure to grow Bergdorf’s in New York to pay much closer attention to the users are getting older, which given NMG’s intentions to business and have the time to means generations, specifical- Estimated number of go public soon, possibly think very strategically about ly those born in the Nineties, Internet users in this year. NMG in 2005 was the next steps for the brand. are changing their online China by 2015. purchased by Texas Pacific Even though it’s Even though it’s one store, habits from playing games Group and Warburg Pincus it’s a very complex business. and seeking other forms of en- for more than $5 billion, and one store, it’s a very There is a lot that needs to be tertainment to searching for uses the Internet still largely the owners want some pay- coordinated. Having one point news and information about for entertainment but also back. This year, NMG has person to coordinate all of the products. China’s post-Nine- increasingly to “access goods taken some moves suggesting complex business. activities is very important.” ties generation — the coun- and services that otherwise the IPO is nearing, including “There really is a dream try’s first to grow up with the would be out of reach.” declaring a one-time cash There is a lot team in place here,” said Internet — is now also coming The overarching findings dividend of $442.6 million, Schulman, who said he of age and entering into the from the study indicate that or $435 a common share. A that needs to be didn’t anticipate any sweep- workforce, which means they the Internet in China has willingness to pay dividends ing management changes at now have money spend and reached a saturation and mat- makes NMG more attractive Bergdorf ’s. “What is particu- will be a key driver of online uration point that renders it to potential investors. coordinated. larly interesting now is how sales moving forward. on par with developed coun- Neiman’s also revealed Karen and Jim are really University students and tries. However, unlike in the an investment of $28 million — Jim Gold, NMG carriers of Neiman’s legacy, young professionals are dedi- West, Chinese behavior online in Glamour Sales Holding, a culture and heritage and yet cating about 12 percent of is far more segmented, com- privately held e-commerce they are taking the company their spending to online pur- plex and constantly changing, business in China. The retailer intends to use forward, thinking in a modern way” about tech- chases, the study said. which means companies need Glamour’s technology to launch its own Web site nology, being omni-channel and customer service. According to Zhou, com- to develop multiple strategies in China at the end of this year and pump up “There’s this strong connection to the past but panies are neglecting to to reach the country’s varied Glamour’s existing flash-sale business. It’s an at- also this focus on the future.” understand this new set of Internet demographics. tempt to demonstrate that Neiman’s has growth Asked if it was a stretch to go from running consumers and how to reach “The Internet is both a potential, at least internationally. While there is Jimmy Choo to running Bergdorf’s, the 40-year- them on the Internet. There risk and also an opportuni- little room left in the U.S. to open more Neiman old Schulman replied: “I would say they are very are “a lot of behavior chang- ty,” Zhou said. “What we see Marcus full-line luxury stores, the company has different roles. As ceo of Jimmy Choo, the busi- es,” Zhou said. so far is that consumers are been accelerating growth of its outlet and e-com- ness went from 55 stores in 2007 in 15 countries “They [companies] really way ahead in China and that merce businesses. to 140 stores in 32 countries by the end of 2011. need to think about their fu- companies are lagging way In 1972, Bergdorf ’s did open a branch in White We diversified the brand by adding new catego- ture consumers and their be- behind consumer trends in Plains, N.Y., which was not successful and was ries like fragrance, men’s shoes and eyewear. I havior,” Zhou said. “What we digital marketing and digital converted to a Neiman Marcus store. Prior to the was involved in product development, manag- see is a challenge for compa- sales. With e-commerce, it recession, the company reconsidered opening an ing the design process, managing the retail and nies is they tend to have the is a very tricky question and additional Bergdorf ’s, and eyed Las Vegas. wholesale’’ businesses and being ultimately re- same mind-set. They have the this is probably why compa- Asked if Bergdorf’s branches were again on the sponsible for the financial side of the business. same people managing their nies are hesitating about it. table for discussion, Gold replied: “There are no There was a very international scope. It was online and offline operations There are a lot of challenges. plans to do so but Josh is going to have the opportu- a very different role than being president of but they do not realize they They need to consider the nity to study the business and formulate a strategy in Bergdorf Goodman, but I would argue that there are addressing different au- pros and cons of different on- partnership with me and Karen Katz,” ceo of NMG. is a similar degree of complexity.” diences. The generation that line channels.”

Guadeloupe, Kyrgyzstan, Sri is hoping to triple its sales in Mango Revenue Tops $1.8 Billion Lanka and Cambodia. China and double the number of Mango, which counts more stores it has in Russia by 2013. kets, given the retailer’s strong 2012, Mango plans to continue than 2,400 stores in 107 coun- Europe continues to be a By Sharon Edelson international presence, with the expanding online and doubling tries, has allocated 140 million major focus with stores set to remaining 18 percent attributed sales through its Web site and by euros ($183.4 million) for new bow in France, Germany, the Mango ended its 2011 fiscal to Spain, its domestic market. opening online concessions on stores in 2012, as well as invest- U.K., Italy and Poland. There’s year with revenues of 1.4 billion Online revenue in 2011 was the top Web sites worldwide. ments in refurbishments and lo- also activity in South America euros, or $1.83 billion at cur- 36.2 million euros ($47.4 mil- The retailer in 2011 opened gistics and IT systems. and the Middle East, where rent exchange, for the Mango lion), a 72 percent increase over 644 stores, eight of which In 2012, the firm plans to units will open in Qatar, Kuwait, MNG Holding SLU Consolidated the previous year. Mango.com were in Spain. The balance enter Myanmar and Pakistan Saudi Arabia and Iran. Group and subsidiary compa- is available in much of Europe, of the units were in foreign and said it remains committed The Barcelona-based re- nies, an 11 percent increase the U.S., Canada, Japan, South markets. Mango consolidated to developing its business in tailer’s international expansion from 2010. Korea, Turkey, China, Russia, markets in Eastern Europe, China and Russia. There are 80 has been aided by franchisees, About 82 percent of 2011 rev- Hong Kong, Macao, India, the the Middle East and Asia and new stores on tap for China and which carry the financial bur- enues came from foreign mar- Philippines and Malaysia. In entered Bermuda, Monaco, 30 planned for Russia. Mango den of operating stores.

w12a006b;7.indd 1 4/11/12 8:17 PM 04112012202029 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2012 7 WWD.COM

while the exterior has patterned double Although it’s been absent recently, Celine glass lit from within the store. There are has a long history on Rodeo Drive. It had currently six Roberto Cavalli stores in the a store on the luxury thoroughfare as far FASHION SCOOPS U.S., and the brand plans to open four to back as the Seventies. The Celine store five more in the next two years. — RACHEL moved to 313 N. Rodeo Drive in 1996 and BROWN remained there until it closed a few years GARDEN PARTY: Karl Lagerfeld, who has COMPANY TAKES ROOT: Jed Root, whose Jed ago. Luggage specialist Rimowa currently paraded Chanel cruise collections Root, Inc. represents a stable of fashion SWAROVSKI’S BOND GIRL: Swarovski has for has a flagship at that address. Celine in Los Angeles, Saint-Tropez and photographers and hair and makeup the first time chosen an actress to be the face languished after former creative director Venice, has chosen a nearby venue artists, has partnered with talent agent of its advertising campaign. Bérénice Marlohe, Michael Kors departed in 2004 to start his own he practically knows by heart — the Tracy Christian to form TCA Jed Root, a the French actress who stars as Sévérine in brand, but has once again recaptured the garden of the Château de Versailles new boutique talent agency specializing the upcoming James Bond film “Skyfall,” fashion spotlight under the design direction — for his next show. It’s set for the in actors and producers. Based in Los will embody the accessories brand for its fall of Phoebe Philo. By returning to Rodeo evening of May 14, but other details Angeles, the agency and its clients are collection, Kingdom of Jewels. “[Marlohe] Drive, where Tom Ford opened last year are still under wraps. — MILES SOCHA involved in reality shows and developing combines beauty and intelligence, a and stores by the likes of Valentino, Louis product lines for clients, which include multicultural background with a genuine Vuitton, David Yurman, Roberto Cavalli and PRUITT POWER: Jimmy Choo has joined Oscar winners Octavia Spencer and uniqueness, a passionate personality Van Cleef & Arpels have recently unveiled forces with the contemporary artist Melissa Leo. The agency celebrates its and a talent for acting,” said Nathalie Colin, remodels or are undergoing remodels, Rob Pruitt to create a capsule collection launch with a party at The London West Swarovski’s creative director. The brand will Celine is further solidifying its place atop of shoes, handbags and small leather Hollywood today. — MARCY MEDINA soon unveil wider activities linked with the the fashion heap. Celine has U.S. stores in goods. The designs will be part of Choo’s film’s release and the 50th anniversary of the New York, on Madison Avenue, and Florida, 2013 cruise collection, and the products SPRING FLING: Rob Thomas of Matchbox James Bond franchise. — KRISTI GARCED in Bal Harbour. — RACHEL BROWN will be sold at the brand’s boutiques and Twenty and solo fame will play The online starting in November. Society of Memorial Sloan-Kettering JIGSAW TO OFF-LOAD ITS KEW.159 LABEL: “We were captivated by Pruitt’s Cancer Center’s fifth annual Spring Robinson Webster Holdings, which owns energy, his computer-screen use of Ball at the Temple of Dendur at the the British women’s wear label Jigsaw, an- color and the festive exuberance of his Metropolitan Museum of Art on April nounced this week that it intends to sell prints and materials,” said the brand’s 25. The event has raised almost $7 or close its Kew.159 diffusion line. The creative directors Sandra Choi and Simon million since 2008, and this is the company said it had made the decision Holloway. “There were elements in his first year that it will take place at following a strategic review, as the label work that reminded us in subtle ways of the temple. Co-chaired by Tory Burch, has “struggled to become profitable in dif- the Jimmy Choo design iconography. We Jamie Tisch, Caryn Zucker and Muffie ficult trading conditions.” sensed that Rob’s twist on Jimmy Choo Potter Aston, the benefit this year is Robinson Webster said Kew.159’s glamour would yield something very sponsored by Gucci. — WWD STAFF turnover peaked in 2010 at 22.1 million collectible and uniquely beautiful.” pounds, or $35.1 million, when it recorded Over the years, Jimmy Choo CARNIVAL CRUISE: Returning to the a loss of 300,000 pounds, or $476,544, on has collaborated with a string fashion fray at the Coachella Valley an earnings before interest taxes depre- of contemporary artists and Music Festival is A|X Armani Exchange, ciation and amortization basis. The firm photographers, including Nan Goldin, which is using its third annual Neon currently has annual sales of 20.5 million for the 2012 cruise Icons collection; Carnival event on Saturday night to pounds, or $32.6 million, and operates 16 Marilyn Minter for the 2011 Crystal launch its Color Pop watch collection. standalone stores and 22 concessions in collection; and Richard Phillips for the The 10 unisex timepieces, priced at the U.K., alongside an online store. spring 2008 collection. Pruitt is best $100 retail and ranging in color from The company said that unless the brand known for his glitter panda paintings sun-kissed orange to mint green to berry is sold, its store portfolio will be assigned and for creating the Art Awards — red, will hit stores and the Web site in to its Jigsaw and Jigsaw Menswear stores, inspired by the Academy Awards — at May. Amid the thrill rides and classic along with third parties. Robinson Webster the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum games at the carnival, A|X Armani noted that “some redundancies will be in- in 2009 and 2010. — SAMANTHA CONTI Exchange is creating an oversize watch evitable,” but said that it is hoped staff will wheel replicating the Color Pop watch Bérénice Marlohe for Swarovski. find some roles in other parts of the group. BRANCHING OUT: A diffusion line, who face, which partygoers like Emma Roberts, The company added that Jigsaw is “enjoy- doesn’t have one these days? Kimberly Camilla Belle, Kellan Lutz, Emile Hirsch and ing a strong performance,” with its sales Ovitz is the latest designer to enter into Jamie Chung can spin for a chance to win CELINE RETURNS: Celine is heading back to up 8.6 percent on a same-store basis for the the lower-price-line realm with her prizes. — WWD STAFF Beverly Hills. The LVMH Moët Hennessy year to date. Kew.159 will continue to trade eco-friendly foray, O by Kimberly Ovitz, Louis Vuitton-owned brand has leased a during the spring 2012 season, and then in which was feted Tuesday night at Curve ALL ABOUT MALCOLM: Designer Keanan 3,100-square-foot location at 319 N. Rodeo a reduced capacity for fall 2012, which will on Mercer Street. Guests noshed on rock Duffty’s documentary on Malcolm Drive next to Montblanc and Miu Miu. be the line’s final collection. — NINA JONES candy and sipped various Skinnygirl McLaren is moving closer to fruition. libations (rose, margarita and white At the Tribeca Film Festival later this were all being served) while viewing the month, Duffty will reveal that he has collection of supersoft tees and dresses, signed a production deal with Roastbeef all of which retail for less than $200. Production, a London-based company “I’m wearing it right now,” Ovitz said of whose latest documentary, “Hell and her slouchy black frock. “It’s cozy, easy, Back Again,” was nominated for an accessible, approachable. I’m all about Oscar at this year’s Academy Awards and it.” O by Kimberly Ovitz is available for won two awards at the Sundance Film For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. purchase at Kimberlyovitz.com. Festival. Duffty is co-producing the film, — TAYLOR HARRIS which is a tribute to McLaren’s legacy in music, fashion and contemporary culture, with Dan Honan. In the U.S., the Kimberly two have inked a production deal with Spaces Ovitz Thought Engine, which co-produced the Harry Belafonte documentary, “Sing COMMERCIAL Your Song,” another Academy Award- REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, MANAGERS & SALES ASSOCIATES nominated film. “In June, we will be PRODUCTIONS New York Look retailer looking for showing a new ‘Malcolm McLaren: Full service shop to the trade. motivated, outgoing & fashion savvy Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 employees. Must have at least 1 year Spectacular Failure’ trailer at the experience in women’s apparel. documentary film festival, Meet Market, Contact: [email protected] in Sheffield, England,” Duffty said. 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes “It’s the biggest European festival for Menswear Showrooms documentaries. So it is moving along D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 OHANA Trademark now available for licensing: Mens apparel, nicely.” The film is slated for a 2013 Showrooms & Lofts Womens apparel, Bags and Jewelry. release. — JEAN E. PALMIERI BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS DHY [email protected] Great ’New’ Office Space Avail (310) 376-6791 ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 CAVALLI ON THE DRIVE: Roberto Cavalli has a new Rodeo Drive look. The SALES REP — NY brand, which opened its location on 20 YR OLD CA BASED SCARF CO. OVITZ NEEDS MOTIVATED PERSON TO the Beverly Hills street in 2005, has INDEPLY HANDLE SALES FROM OUR NY SH.ROOM. STRONG CONN remodeled the 3,000-square-foot store TO CHAIN/SPLTY STORES A MUST.

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SAVILE ROW SHIFT Gieves & Hawkes Changes Hands Bright In $95.3M Deal Beginnings New owner sees further expansion in Chinese market.

Spurred on by an explosion of color, by NINA JONES updated patterns and technological advances, the men’s underwear LONDON — No. 1 Savile Row has a new owner. market is on a growth spiral. The Trinity Limited, the Hong Kong-based re- tailer of luxury men’s wear brands and part once dowdy category is now a hot of the Li & Fung Group, said Wednesday it commodity as basics have has agreed to purchase the British men’s tailoring label Gieves & Hawkes, which is given way to a more headquartered at a white columned man- fashionable, youth- sion at No. 1 Savile Row. Trinity, Gieves & Hawkes’ long-term li- inspired offering. censee in greater China, where it operates For more on more than 100 Gieves & Hawkes stores, has already paid an initial 32.5 million pounds, the underwear or $51.6 million at current exchange. market, see Gieves & Hawkes has been owned since 2002 by a subsidiary of the Hong Kong-based pages MW4 Wing Tai Properties Ltd. The label has to MW7. been based at No. 1 Savile Row since 1912, and traces its roots to 1771, when Thomas Hawkes set up as a cap maker on London’s Brewer Street. Trinity said in addition to the initial sum, it would make further annual payments to Wing Tai for 18 years, up to a cumulative maximum value of 60 million pounds, or $95.3 million. The annual payments will de- pend on Gieves & Hawkes’ success in great- er China, Trinity said. Trinity noted it expects to complete the transaction in a month, using funds from the company’s internal resources, including banking facilities. Wong Yat Ming, group managing director of Trinity, said the British brand’s “strong heritage in fine tailoring and dedication to quality…gives Gieves & Hawkes an im- mense appeal for discerning customers around the world and, most importantly, in luxury markets like China.” Indeed, the label is known in its native England for its heritage and its illustrious 2(x)ist’s cotton and spandex boxer clientele. Prince William wore a Gieves & briefs and Hurley’s cotton hoodie. Hawkes suit for his engagement portrait, and Miansai bracelet; Cheap Monday the house has also dressed Sean Connery, silver bracelet. David Beckham and former British Prime Minister Gordon Brown. It holds three Royal Warrants, and alongside its tailoring creates ceremonial uniforms for the British military. Last year, the brand named Central Saint Martins graduate Barry Tulip as de- sign director, and for fall he showed a col-

BADIA lection that focused on classic men’s wear silhouettes, inspired by Sixties fashion ALEX

BY plates such as Tommy Nutter, David Hicks and The Beatles. In the fiscal year ended December 2010, STYLED the company’s most recently published fi-

FORD; nancial report, Gieves & Hawkes reported

@ sales of 15.6 million pounds, or $24.3 million at average exchange rates for the period, and

MICHAEL a loss of 2.5 million pounds, or $3.9 million. PHOTO BY RODOLFO MARTINEZ

MODEL: {Continued on page MW2} MW2 WwD THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2012 Men’s Week JA Apparel Sets Growth Initiatives Report Highlights

by JEAN E. PALMIERI and can turn out a stock suit in three- put his own mark on the brand while H&M’s Organic Bent and-a-half weeks and a made-to-mea- at the same time maintaining a healthy by Sharon Edelson JA Apparel Corp. is mining its sure garment in two weeks, according respect for the past. The label was American heritage. to president and chief executive officer launched in 1987 by designer Joseph The owner of the Joseph Abboud Tony Sapienza. Abboud and changed hands a couple of H&M’s 10th global sustainability report touches all and Joe by Joseph Abboud brands is Last month, the company introduced times before J.W. Childs purchased the the familiar hot-button issues, from organic fibers to expanding its reach through several an exclusive iPad application for made- trademarks in 2004. workers’ rights. key licenses, marketing initiatives and to-measure with Nordstrom that al- “Bernardo is the new face of the The report reveals that the Swedish fast-fashion retail- technological advances. This includes lows customers in the store to browse brand,” Selvey said of the designer, er is the biggest certified user of certified organic cotton an iPad application for made-to- through a wide array of styles and fab- who made his runway debut for the in the world. H&M in 2011 increased its use of organic cot- measure suits with Nordstrom, exten- rics to create a customized garment. label in February. ton by more than 20 percent, and the fiber now represents sions of partnerships with PVH Corp. Selvey said it results in a “collaborative 7.6 percent of H&M’s total cotton use. H&M is increasing and Peerless and the introduction of customer experience,” that keeps shop- its use of Better Cotton, which is grown in a way that re- a men’s jewelry collection with Aston pers on the sales floor instead of tucked duces stress on the local environments and improves the Luxury Group. into a corner somewhere poring over livelihoods and welfare of farming communities. The backdrop for all of this is the books of fabric swatches. In addition, H&M is using more organic hemp, which company’s Made in the New America “We’re looking at comp growth of grows quickly in any soil, uses less water and doesn’t re- advertising campaign that speaks to 25 percent in our stock orders,” said quire pesticides or fertilizers. the company’s U.S. roots. The cam- Sapienza. “And we’ve doubled our H&M is targeting Bangladesh, a key purchasing mar- paign is running in major men’s maga- made-to-measure business over the ket and one of the world’s poorest countries, for long- zines including Esquire, GQ and Out. last 12 months. With the iPad applica- term assistance. Since 2008, 440,000 workers have been “We are reinventing the brand and tion, we think that will double again.” taught their rights and 3 million will learn fire safety by propelling it forward,” said Kenton Sapienza said there are no imme- 2013. H&M is offering grants to women for higher educa- Selvey, president of Joseph Abboud diate plans to offer the application to The iPad application. tion and is setting up help lines for women exposed to Brands Group. “We are proud that we other retailers at this point. violence and discrimination. are becoming an innovator again. And At the same time, company execu- Under Rojo’s supervision, the label A pilot mini-MBA program for H&M store managers the American part of who we are is be- tives denied the persistent rumors has achieved a new level of modern is teaching them how to improve day-to-day performance coming more important.” that J.W. Childs Associates, JA’s princi- sophistication with the fall collection in their stores and preparing them for long-term chal- He said company research has pal owners, is still shopping for a new inspired by mid-Thirties America. lenges, the report said. shown that 60 percent of American owner for the label. To further increase the brand’s H&M in 2011 joined the Fair Wage Network, which men prefer to buy American suits, “so “We are not for sale,” said Sapienza. reach, JA extended its existing licens- works to bring together fashion brands, garment produc- we need to let a few more guys know “We’ve taken the position with our own- ing agreement with PVH for an ad- ers, NGOs, worker representatives and researchers to pro- we’re made in America.” ers that strength and consistency are ditional 10 years under which PVH mote fair wages around the world. To better understand The Joseph Abboud Collection very important for the long-term future will produce dress shirts, neckwear, wages in its supply chain, the Fair Labor Association will product is manufactured in the com- of the company.” So rather than actively loungewear and underwear under the assess wage structures at 200 H&M suppliers’ factories pany’s factory in New Bedford, Mass. pursuing a sale, the owners are “mak- Joseph Abboud label. In addition, the in Bangladesh, Cambodia, China and India, represent- That plant produces 950 suits a day ing an investment” by supporting cre- company’s licensing deal with Peerless ing more than half of total production. Audits have been A marketing image for spring. ative director Bernardo has been extended another six years. conducted at 2,024 active supplier factories. Rojo and the compa- Peerless currently manufactures As for recycling used apparel, H&M joined with iCollect ny’s growth initiatives. tailored clothing under the Joseph in 2011 to pilot a project in 17 Swedish stores where consum- Sapienza said a sale may Abboud White Label and will now pro- ers’ used garments were recycled. The company plans to roll happen at some point duce Joseph Abboud Collection out- the project out to all its Swedish stores and will consider down the road, but the erwear, rainwear, boys’ clothing and extending it to other countries, according to the report. executive team is instead dress furnishings as well. In other sustainability areas, H&M is leading efforts focusing on building the The final license allows the company with Adidas Group, C&A, Li Ning, Nike and Puma to devel- brand today. “We have to expand into a new product category op a joint road map for new standards for environmental the opportunity to come — men’s jewelry. Aston Luxury Group performance. The company’s goal is to lead the industry out of this long recession- has acquired the rights to produce a toward achieving zero discharges of chemicals by 2020. ary period and be more broad assortment of products under valuable in the future,” the Joseph Abboud by REVV name. Sapienza said. The company has already offered cuff “For us, it’s all about links and also has a watch license with Façonnable to Unveil being an American de- Genesis, but the offering will be ex- signer brand,” said panded to items such as tie bars, key Selvey. “The people we chains, bracelets and necklaces. “The Sunglasses Collection compete against are dif- aesthetics will be very simple and re- by LUISA ZARGANI ferent — they’re preppie, fined,” said Rojo. “We’re going to play static and large. We’re with different materials, but they will constantly evolving.” be timeless and sophisticated.” MILAN — Façonnable has teamed with Italia Independent A key part of that The executives said they expect for a limited edition collection of sunglasses that will evolution was the ap- to continue to be a presence during bow courtside in Monte Carlo during the city’s Rolex pointment of Rojo as Fashion Week in New York and they Masters tennis tournament, running Saturday to April 22. creative director in May are working on “new, unique and ar- Façonnable is the official sponsor of the event. 2010. A one-time de- tistic ways to show the collection” in The shades will be available in six colors — blue, tur- signer for Michael Kors, September. “We will continue to do quoise, orange, yellow, pink and green — and will be sold Izod furnishings, Perry runway shows from time to time,” said in all Façonnable stores globally, including its online bou- Ellis International and Selvey, “but we want the editors to tique, until the end of summer. Alfred Dunhill, he has come and be surprised.” The model, which will retail at 165 euros, or $216 at current exchange, is one if Italia Independent’s best- selling designs, the aviator 000B style, reinterpreted with Façonnable’s signature striped motif and matching tinted Looks from lenses. It features a brushed steel frame with acetate front Trinity BUYS Gieves & and tips and mirrored lenses. Hawkes. Façonnable will donate a portion of sales of the pink Gieves & Hawkes shades to The Lyla Nsouli Foundation For Children’s Brain Cancer Research. In $95.3M Deal In other news, the company is looking at 2012 as a year of consolidation and geographic expansion, both in terms of retail and wholesale distribution. A number of boutiques are sched- {Continued from page MW1} uled to open in Chile in May and Façonnable continues to ex- Those figures were filed to Companies pand in the Middle East. Next up are an opening in Jeddah, House, the official register of U.K. business- Saudi Arabia, and two units dedicated to the Tailored Denim es. According to industry sources, the brand’s Collection this spring, in Dubai and Doha, Qatar, respectively. performance has improved markedly since “The Middle East continues to show tremendous growth then. A spokeswoman for Trinity said the as a younger generation is buying into our Riviera lifestyle,” company does not break down the sales and said chief executive officer Moustapha El-Solh. “Tailored profit figures for individual brands. denim is increasingly successful,” he added. Ming added that Trinity, which also Located on tony shopping road Tahlia Street, the new manages men’s wear brands including Façonnable boutique in Jeddah covers 1,296 square feet Cerruti 1881, Kent & Curwen and Altea in and is modeled after the brand’s South of France store con- greater China, plans to enhance the value cept with white oak floors, honey colored oak paneling and of the brand and grow its business interna- an indigo blue linen ottoman. tionally by “leveraging on the solid founda- The brand, which named Julian Neale as its new artis- tion that Trinity has already built for Gieves tic director in December, has 75 stores and 800 points of & Hawkes across Asia.” sale in 23 countries.

w12b002a;8.indd 2 4/11/12 8:13 PM 04112012201358

MW4 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2012 Men’s Week The Boxer The boxer brief in performance cotton blends continues to be the leading underwear style of the season. Explosive bright colors, graphic prints and playful contrasting piping infuse a youthful attitude into the men’s wear classic. — ALEX BADIA Tommy Hilfiger’s cotton and spandex boxer briefs and American Apparel’s PHOTOS BY RODOLFO MARTINEZ cotton hoodie. BASS PSL MERCEDES ASSISTANT: FASHION COSMETICS; COMPULSIVE OBSESSIVE USING SHAW JENNI BY GROOMING SOUL; @ SATCHEL AND MAX FORD, @ MICHAEL MODELS: Men’s Week WwD Thursday, April 12, 2012 MW5

Polo Ralph Lauren’s cotton and spandex boxer briefs. DC Shoes hat; Miansai blue bracelet; Cheap Monday silver bracelet; Adidas watch; Beats by Dr. Dre headphones.

Tommy Hilfiger’s cotton and spandex boxer briefs and American Apparel’s cotton hoodie.

w12b004(06)a;9.indd 5 4/11/12 7:33 PM 04112012193439 MW6 WwD Thursday, April 12, 2012 Men’s Week

Calvin Klein’s polyester and spandex boxer briefs. Aviator Nation hat; Cheap Mon- day necklace; Miansai blue bracelet; Tateos- sian beaded bracelet; Adidas Watch; Puma sneakers; Beats by Dr. Dre headphones.

DKNY’s cotton and spandex boxer briefs and Aviator Nation’s cotton sweatpants. DC Shoes hat; Ruby Kobo bracelet; Wild Things backpack; Saturdays Surf NYC skateboard.

Boss Orange’s cotton and spandex boxer briefs. Hurley hat; Tateossian bracelets; Lacoste sneakers; Beats by Dr. Dre headphones.

Papi’s cotton and spandex boxer briefs. Miansai blue bracelet; Cheap Monday silver bracelet and necklace; Adidas watch; Burton backpack.

w12b004(06)a;9.indd 6 4/11/12 7:33 PM 04112012193440 Men’s Week WwD Thursday, April 12, 2012 MW7 Underwear Market Moves Beyond Basics A trifecta of color, fashion and performance is driving the men’s underwear business.

by KARYN MONGET Michael Kors’ For more, see able to galvanize something so fun- best-selling boxer damental. For fall, we will have a You can save your tighty- briefs from WWD.com/ special edition called Calvin Klein whities for a rainy day. PVH Corp. menswear-news. Bold X-Ray with bold waistbands The surging demand for fash- and Calvin Klein offset logos.” ion, color and performance is cre- Addressing the popularity of per- ating a new level of sex appeal in formance fabrics, Mazzoli said ac- the men’s underwear arena. Basic ceptance of microfibers in the men’s commodity goods, including under- realm has been an ongoing process. wear and T-shirts, might have been “But it’s now a really a great king during the recession, but the time for men’s underwear....It’s appetite for fashion is steadily what women already knew, but growing as the economy improves, men didn’t know about fabrics and say industry executives. what fabrics can do,” said Mazzoli. The proof is in the figures. Executives believe crossover Total annual sales of men’s un- trends from the women’s intimates derwear and tops in the U.S. in- field are influencing the men’s mar- creased 6.6 percent to $3.3 billion in ket in terms of color, prints, fabrica- A top-selling low-rise boxer brief by 2011, according to The NPD Group tions, silhouettes and even hanging Perry Ellis. Inc.’s Consumer Tracking Service. programs. A key example is low- Several factors are credited for rise women’s underwear that was because the consumer wants more bolstering the fashion and fashion- wildly popular in the early Nineties information on technology and fab- basics segments of the men’s un- and designed to be worn with low- rics. They know what microfibers derwear business. The segments rise jeans and pants. The trend are — what they want to know is are expected to continue growing crossed over to the mainstream what do microfibers do for them. by 10 percent or more in 2012. The men’s market with an abundance of So our big push is fabrications. All influencers include: logoed waistbands. of our packaging and hang tags give • A greater acceptance of newness Doug Jakubowski, chief mar- information on what a fabric does,” and innovation from tech-savvy con- keting officer of Perry Ellis explained de Carvalho. “We use sumers who want to be on trend. International, said trends from the very soft waistbands and we just • The popularity of men’s slim- women’s market have been mak- launched a new line of Modal that’s fitting apparel, which requires ing a strong statement in the men’s made by Lenzing that’s not as harsh equally stylish and slim-cut under- area for the past couple of years. on the environment. We want our garments. “Women’s market trends have products to be earth-friendly.” • E-commerce is beefing up sales found their way into the men’s In other developments, Papi of men’s fashion and novelty under- market. Low-rise, high-cut styling has launched an innovative waist- wear, a top-selling online category. has been surging in the men’s un- band technique called Silica in its • High-tech fabrics that enhance derwear zone,” said Jakubowski. Mosaic group. performance on several levels, in- “There are variations and we are “The Silica waistband has a little cluding ultrasoft blends of microfi- now looking at color and shape in a grip to it so it helps a man’s shirt bers such as Modal, polyamide and different way....Color is probably the stay put underneath pants,” said de elastane, as well as performance biggest part of it along with perfor- Carvalho. He added that several col- applications like antimicrobial and of PVH Corp. — which owns the understands the trends. We see mance fabrics, which are becoming lections by Papi, including Colores, moisture-wicking treatments. Also Tommy Hilfiger and Izod brands this continuing for fall, but we will very important because men want Cotton Stretch, 100% Cotton, Ibiza, in the performance area is the grow- and produces men’s underwear need to keep pushing the envelope high-tech performance in their un- Cool 2 and Allure, were launched ing use of Lycra spandex-blended bearing the licensed Michael Kors, to make sure our product meets the derwear and they are looking for for the first time at select Nordstrom fabrics that sculpt and buff the body, Geoffrey Beene, Chaps and Van consumer’s new level of sophistica- comfort beyond the cotton brief.” stores nationwide and online. especially the torso and stomach. Heusen labels — said the company tion,” said Lechner. Jakubowski said the top-selling Bjorn Borg is another brand The number-one-selling silhou- has “introduced new fashion col- Regarding Tommy Hilfiger in- silhouette for Perry Ellis under- that wants to be earth-friendly. ette continues to be the boxer brief, ors, fabrics and product lines to nerwear, he singled out fashion- wear continues to be the boxer Ingrid Soderlund, area busi- which commands more than a 40 each of our brands this year.” forward colors paired with novelty brief, which accounts for 47 per- ness manager in the U.S. for Bjorn percent share of the men’s under- “We continue to watch the male as a winning formula. cent of sales. Borg Inc., said, “We recently did wear business in the U.S., according underwear consumer grow more “That combined with Tommy’s He added that consumers are a ‘Turn the Lights Off ’ collection to executives. A shorter cut trunk is comfortable with his understand- mixed fashion waistband is driv- increasingly buying sexy-looking that glows in the dark because we the go-to style in Europe and Asia. ing of what he wants to wear for ing sales in boxers, and packaged underwear that has a fashion spin. wanted to show the importance of And woven and knit boxers — a clas- the garment closest to his body. We product is performing based on “The consumer obviously has recycling. For fall, we’ll be doing a sic item that is sold to both a tradi- have created an expectation for our new fashion basic colors and high- to have the appropriate undergar- collection of off-cuts called Cut the tional customer as well as a hipster customers that brands will drive er-selling multiples….Our success ments to wear with the apparel and Crap, which will use unexpected — is also gaining traction in updat- excitement using new silhouettes, with Michael Kors is it’s a business I think he’s opening his eyes to the fabrics and will also be good for ed prints in fashionable colors. colors, fabrics, waistbands and that revolves around both color [fashion] alternatives. We are taking the environment.” Mitchell Lechner, president packaging,” said Lechner. “Every and fashion. Our two-pack boxers a different look and sexier approach “We will continue to push color of the dress furnishings division season we are focusing on what we have a lot of fun color aspects and to men’s underwear, and we are cer- into fall,” said Jason Scarlatti, cre- need to do to meet these demands we are focusing on fashion ground tainly being more aggressive about ative director of 2(x)ist. He said by looking for innovative products colors with bright accent colors silhouette, colors and patterns,” bold color “pops” extremely well and fabrics along with marketing running through basic patterns. said Jakubowski. He added that on- on synthetic fabrications. opportunities. This has been a key For packaged underwear, our tech- line shopping has “created a whole Regarding performance fabrics, to our success and growth….Over nical and luxurious fabrics like our new dynamic that allows consumers Scarlatti singled out the Touch the last 10 years, we have seen a Modal and microfiber programs in to be more exploratory in what they Collection by 2(x)ist as receiving shift in the consumer from one who fashion colors are our best sellers.” purchase and try on at home.” strong reaction. expects color and fashion from one New products for fall for Tommy Kelly Thompson, vice president “Touch is done in a microfiber brand and the consumer who ex- Hilfiger underwear will include a of advertising and brand manage- of nylon and spandex that wicks pects athletic fabrics from another five-pack of hip briefs and a five- ment at Fruit of the Loom, singled away moisture and is excellent for brand. The consumer now expects pack of boxers, while Michael Kors out another crossover trend as gain- performance, but it’s brushed and that each of our brands offers him underwear will launch Free Fit, a ing in popularity: Women buying has a really soft, peachlike qual- everything that is trend-right in this moisture-management technical men’s high-performance T-shirts. ity,” said Scarlatti. expanding marketplace.” fabric of cotton and Lycra. “Our basic T-shirt business has At Jockey International, Laetitia Lechner said he anticipates a Assessing the color equation, just exploded because the T-shirts Lecigne, director of creative prod- trifecta of color, fabrication and Bob Mazzoli, chief creative officer can be worn as outerwear or as a uct and design, said top trends in product innovation will drive sales of Calvin Klein Underwear, said longer piece. Women are wearing the men’s market can be identified for the fall. the Calvin Klein innerwear brand the men’s T-shirts to work out in. by waistband treatments. “Fashion has been driving this will continue to use “aggressive The V-neck is also trending in this “It’s either a superbold and category for a few seasons. We color for fall 2012.” category,” said Thompson. screaming brand logo in bold have seen new waistband fashion “We launched Calvin Klein Lucio de Carvalho, vice colors, or an almost nonexistent combined with terrific fabrics like Underwear Bold a month ago and president of design at Isaco brand logo that’s very discreet,” Modal and microfiber. Color this it’s been a huge success. We inter- International, maker of the Papi, explained Lecigne. season has really been a leader in pret the visual language of color Ike Behar and licensed Perry Ellis “It shows the consumer re- driving sales. The male consumer is through our lens. The message men’s underwear brands, said the ally knows what he’s looking for. voting every day with his purchases, is for people to enjoy color and demand for performance fabrics is It’s similar to what’s happening sending the message that fashion buy different colors,” explained transforming the men’s market. in the arts — you know if you’re Bold logoed waistbands and short trunks is his choice. He is becoming more Mazzoli. “We’ve been doing color “It’s very interesting what’s at the MoMA or the Metropolitan will continue into fall at 2(x)ist. sophisticated with his choices and for 30 years, but it’s great to be going on in the market right now Museum of Art,” she laughed.

w12b007a;4.indd 2 4/11/12 7:18 PM 04112012191853 MW8 WWD THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2012 Men’s Week Hackett Opens Store in Milan Eurovet Acquires CurvExpo byALESSANDRA TURRA EUROVET’S ACQUISITION well, and we share the same values Wednesday of U.S.-based CurvExpo on how to service the industry. We MILAN — Hackett London will Inc. marks the second acquisition thought this was the right time open its first store in Italy today. in the intimate apparel world in to go further and strengthen our Located on Via Manzoni, the two weeks. position in the U.S.,” said Bellon- two-story, 5,705-square-foot flag- The purchase, which is esti- Homps, noting that the initial in- ship is part of the company’s retail mated at more than $20 million and vestment was to grow Eurovet’s expansion strategy, which includes makes Eurovet the sole owner of international franchise. its debut in China, with a store in CurvExpo, follows Wacoal Holding A key area of growth will be Hong Kong, and two in Northern Corp.’s $243 million buy of U.K.- swimwear for men, women and China next fall, along with the based Eveden Group on March 30, children as well as beachwear. opening of its second door in which spurred speculation in the “Swimwear is a strategic line Tokyo, in the Ginza district. innerwear industry of more deals to of business for us and we will be “Our plan is to have a retail come this year. going after the swimwear market,” presence in the most important While the purchase price for stated Bellon-Homps. cities, because through our direct the Eurovet-CurvExpo deal is a Regarding CurvExpo’s role in stores we can control how our fraction of the Wacoal-Eveden the future, Laurence Teinturier, product is sold and distributed,” union, there are similarities. co-founder and executive vice said Hackett London chairman Kyoto-based Wacoal is a $2.02 president of CurvExpo, said, “We and founder Jeremy Hackett, who billion innerwear, apparel and tex- will be a global enterprise and The new store is on Via Manzoni. also pointed to the Middle East as tile conglomerate with worldwide we’ll be discussing business, sourc- an important growing market. distribution that scooped up a spe- ing and distribution opportunities “Being Milan is the city of fash- 107 million pounds, or $170 mil- this is really the best,” Hackett cialist of full-figure bras and swim- as well as international develop- ion and clothes, you have to be lion at an average exchange rate, commented. “We invested quite a wear that generates annual sales ment with brands.” here,” he said. “In addition, Italy from 82 million pounds, or $130 lot of money on it, and even if each volume of $125 million, mainly in CurvExpo co-founder and ceo has a reputation of selling British million, the previous year. one has its individuality, this is Europe. French-owned Eurovet — Jean-Luc Teinturier said a major brands well, and Italian men can “Surprisingly, last year was very similar to the London store.” whose shareholders are the power- effort will be made to ease the wear British clothes better than pretty good,” Hackett said. “Even From the sumptuous entrance ful French Knitting and Lingerie transition of the new ownership. the British. Italians enjoy clothes, if it’s going to be tough, we are hall in granite and chalk stone, Federation and the major trade “Over the next several days while in England people do shop- optimistic, because we have a a large spiral staircase leads to show organizer Comexposium — we will be meeting with all of our ping because they need to.” particular product, which is af- the first floor, where the Hackett runs 16 textile and fashion related major brands and exhibitors such as Owned by Spanish private in- fordable and has a good value Mayfair and formal collections are fairs worldwide including events Wacoal, Komar, Hochman, Natori, vestment firm Torreal, which ac- for money. Men want to invest in showcased in luxury rooms with in Paris, Shanghai and Hong Kong. Cosabella, Le Mystere, Hanky Panky, quired the brand from Compagnie quality and don’t want to waste vaulted ceilings and furnished Eurovet, with its Interfilière textiles Panache, Chantelle, Rago and Financière Richemont in 2005, their money. In general, I think with heavy carpets, antique lamps and lace segment, is the world’s Samantha Chang....No changes are Hackett London currently counts that people will tend to buy less and vintage leather chairs. The largest trade show organizer of lin- planned, and Laurence and I will 37 freestanding units, including but better.” level also hosts a sort of library, gerie, swimwear and beachwear. continue managing CurvExpo as co- doors in London, Paris and Dubai The new Milan boutique com- where accessories are displayed The acquisition of the smaller yet presidents,” he said. among others. Its collections are bines classic Italian architecture on bookcases and an oak bar cabi- specialized CurveNY and CurveNV As for how the trade show con- also available in 44 multibrand with the sophisticated atmosphere net is embellished with antique fairs that specialize in upscale lin- solidation will affect the official in- stores worldwide. of a British gentlemen’s club. bronze intarsia where the custom- gerie, men’s underwear, legwear nerwear market weeks in August Hackett London increased its “Every time we open a new ers can stop for a drink. and swimwear in New York and and February — which are not sales in 2011, which jumped to store, we think it’s the best, but The ground floor, featuring an Las Vegas, is aimed at cornering staged concurrently with the Curve oak floor and walls covered with the niche trade show circuit in the fairs — Jean-Luc Teinturier re- exclusive tapestry and decorated U.S., and possibly Canada. plied: “It’s a challenge because most with pictures and paintings from The Eurovet-Curve and Wacoal- markets will be a few days apart.... the Fifties and Sixties, is dedicat- Eveden deals share one common We are working with the Intimate ed to sportswear. The children’s goal, according to Marie-Laure Apparel Council [a division of the line is also on display here, along Bellon-Homps, chief executive of- American Apparel & Footwear with the collections designed for ficer of Eurovet: “Creating a global Association] to have the market prestigious sports events, such platform for global brands.” weeks coincide with our shows.” as Aston Martin Racing and the “We’ve been very pleased with The Teinturiers will be joined Oxford & Cambridge Boat Race. CurvExpo since we acquired a 30 by a soon-to-be-named vice presi- In addition, a Savile Row- percent share four years ago. The dent appointed by Eurovet. inspired personal tailoring ser- company has been performing very — KARYN MONGET vice is available at the store. Customers can choose among a range of British fabrics to cus- tomize their own shirts (from 180 euros, or $236 at current ex- MEMO PAD change, to 270 euros, or $354) and suits (from 1,800 euros, or $2,360), A NEW RECIPE: Condé Nast has vice president, business devel- which are completely handmade acquired ZipList, a suite of tech opment of Direct Brands, home in England. tools already used by those who to Book-of-the-Month Club and frequent sites such as marthastew- Columbia Home Video. He’ll be art.com or Simply Recipes. ZipList working with Cynthia Lewis, vice Man of allows recipes gathered on these president of sales. Lewis has sites and more to be placed in worked as publisher of Marie THE WEEK BUBBA WATSON: C+ a universal recipe box that can Claire, Harper’s Bazaar and Shop be exported into a shopping list. Etc. She also founded Create ZipList has 6,500 partners, and Lucrative Relationships, which The large logoed visor makes him look like now Condé Nast — or, more spe- developed sales and market- He may not have he works for the Ping fast-food restaurant. cifically, Epicurious, Bon Appétit ing programs for clients such shot an albatross, Beautiful hair, very and Gourmet Live — is its biggest as Bergdorf Goodman. The first Eighties George Michael. client. “Our goal is to build ZipList issue of Du Jour is expected to hit but he still walked as an independent company while newsstands in September. — A.W. away with the Having the top button closed collaborating with our food brands makes him look like a nun. to integrate its core technology, MORE STAFF: Dawn Ostroff is coveted green jacket. Relax and open the button. and to create partnerships that staffing up at Condé Nast allow other companies to do the Entertainment. She’s hired However, his The choice of a white polo same,” said Condé Nast president Jeremy Steckler from Imagine bridal-themed brightens his face, and the minimal Bob Sauerberg. — AMY WICKS Entertainment and Michael Klein Travis Mathew logo placement from the Sundance Channel. ensemble is more adds to the clean look. IMAGES SHARING THE LOAD: Du Jour, the Steckler, who was executive The bell-shaped sleeves are new multiplatform luxury play vice president of production at appropriate for an too long, and they add nothing from Jason Binn, has tapped Keith Imagine, will become executive aging British rocker’s athletic to his physique. Does he have Pollock and Nicole Vecchiarelli as vice president of motion pictures nice biceps? We wouldn’t know. co-editors in chief. Pollock comes and will work with Ostroff to ac- beach wedding in ILLUSTRATED/GETTY from Elle, where he served as quire and develop film properties. A white watch? Mitchy-matchy to the end. editorial director of elle.com, He’ll be based in Los Angeles. the Caribbean than Buy a Rolex with the prize money. while Vecchiarelli was senior And Klein will be responsible editor of InStyle. On the publish- for development and produc- a golf course in BECK/SPORTS The white formfitting pants work well with his long, lean body but ing side, Alan Katz has joined as tion of alternative programming. Augusta. Very are more appropriate for an Italian playboy in the French Riveria. chief revenue officer. Katz has Previously, he was senior vice His monochromatic choice leaves us yearning for heritage ROBERT worked as publisher of Interview, president for programming and BY Hello magazine. golf pieces such as plus fours or Scottish plaids. Vanity Fair, Cargo and New York, development at Sundance. — A.W.

PHOTO but most recently was executive