Bread Must Be Made with Poolish, Biga

Apply for our Professional Training Program by May 3! May by Program Training Professional our for Apply Happy Spring from SFBI ...... SFBI from Spring Happy

What’s Rising● San Francisco Baking Institute Newsletter Spring 2006

preferments: are they over-rated? by Thom Leonard, WheatFields Bakery and Café

South San Francisco, CA 94080 CA Francisco, San South read made with “straight” dough is getting an

480 Grandview Drive Grandview 480 undeserved bad rap. To be considered “artisanal” it San Francisco Baking Institute Baking Francisco San seems that a bread must be made with poolish, biga,

liquid levain, dough levain, rye sour, pate fermente Permit No. 855 No. Permit Bor even some combination of two or more of these. I’ve seen some (deservedly) prize-winning bread formulas

San Francisco, CA Francisco, San with as many as three different preferments.

PAID

U.S. POSTAGE U.S. I won’t argue that a good baker can’t make great bread by PRSRT STD PRSRT utilizing yeast preferments or levain. Indeed, I believe these are essential tools to have in your box. What I will argue is Pugliese Loaf that a skilled baker can bake equally good bread using methode directe—as with preferments—and that an understanding of how to make good breads with straight dough is an equally valuable tool to carry. There are times when it is essential to An understanding of how to make be able to convert a bread you normally make with poolish San Francisco Baking Institute or biga to straight dough. good breads with straight dough is a valuable tool to carry. There are Baking and Pastry Arts School for Professionals & Enthusiasts It is generally accepted that both biga and poolish will yield 480 Grandview Drive South San Francisco, CA 94080 doughs and breads with enhanced flavor, structure, handling times when it is essential to be able phone 650.589.5784 fax 650.589.5729 characteristics, and keeping qualities. to convert a bread you normally visit us online at www.sfbi.com make with poolish or biga to straight “To be interested in the dough. changing seasons is a happier WHAT’S RISING You can achieve remarkably similar results with straight THIS SEASON ... state of mind than to be dough methods, but it takes longer from bowl to bench. Using biga, good bread can be made with less than an hour of hopelessly in love floor time. The best straight dough breads I’ve made require ● preferments: are they over-rated? at least three hours of floor time. But a yeast preferment with Spring.” requires a minimum of four to five hours to mature, and ● 2006 course schedule more often, the yeast quantities used require overnight (or George Santayana longer) ripening. ● recipe of the season (1863 - 1952) continued on page 3 ● baker’s tip and more!

What’s Rising is designed and edited by preferments vs. straight dough, 2006 course schedule, Jennifer Donahue Marketing Communications www.jenniferdonahue.com what’s inside: seasonal recipe, baker’s tip, and more ...

1 from michel: about sfbi recipe of the season: prevent oven fire hazards white whole wheat croissant Michel Suas, Founder/President ince 1996, the San ard White Wheat is mostly • Desired Dough Temperature: 74 F. �� grown in California, Kansas, �� • Mixing: Improved Mix with 20 id you know that sometimes a fire can start �� Francisco Baking in your bakery without the telltale signs Idaho and Montana and minute Autolyse. is increasingly milled as a �� • Fermentation: 1 hour at room and warning of flames? Every year I hear �� Institute (SFBI) has Hwhole grain. Because the bran is white, �� temperature, then 8-12 hours about an oven catching on fire in the bakery Dwithout warning! Most often, these types of fires start in the appearance of the flour is a creamy �� under refrigeration. trained hundreds the electric deck oven. Since there are no flames, the fire golden color. The flavor of Hard White • Lamination: 3 single folds - 30 Wheat is not as intense as a whole wheat �� Sof professional and aspiring can burn for a while undetected. minute rest between folds. Michel Suas flour milled from Hard Red Winter �� • Make-up: Traditional croissant or These fires actually start on top of the oven—on the side of, or inside, the wheat; it is sweeter and smoother due savory croissant. bakers from all over the �� hood exhaust pipe. This is caused by an accumulation of flour inside the to the lack of Carotenoid pigments • Proofing: 78 F for 90 minutes. insulation or the pipes. In restaurants, the maintenance of the hood and resulting in less tannin. Some people �� • Baking: Brush with a light coat of world. We have acted as the may wonder—why make a whole wheat cleaning of the shaft have to be monitored constantly to remove the greases. �� egg wash. Bake at 385 F convection �� Fire Marshals do not require these same stringent rules for bakeries. Silos croissant? Croissants are inherently rich �� with 2 seconds of steam for 12 unofficial training site for in butter and why diffuse that with are what they are most concerned about—to prevent potential explosions. �� minutes.** Explosions can start with a spark of electrical contact or motor and a certain whole grain? Using white whole wheat several award-winning flour provides a unique spin on the percentage of flour in the air. Flour exposed to constant heat will ignite with �� *Dough hydration will vary depending on wheat. darker whole wheat croissant. So long Baking USA Teams no flames. �� as fermentation and lamination is carried �� **Baking time, steam duration and oven �� temperature will vary according to equipment. Damages can be quite vast, especially when the fire department is out properly, the buttery, flaky, richness and hosted a variety of �� can be enjoyed with added health �� forced to hose down your equipment. If you have only one oven, the �� international groups—from consequences can be even worse, as it might take days before your oven is benefits of the whole grain. *Roll-in butter is a percentage of the total dough. operating again. countries including Russia, China and Japan—interested Every year I hear about an oven catching “The table is the only place where one is never bored during the first hour.” on fire in the bakery without warning! Most in bringing artisan baking Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826) often, these types of fires start in the electric back to their homelands. deck oven. SFBI is recognized within baker’s tip: preventing wet couche the baking industry as a place A regular vacuuming on the top and side of the oven is necessary at least by Tim Kitzman, Baking & Pastry Instructor where artisan baking is twice a year—the same for the hood and pipes. “Bread Flambé” with a high carbon content is not very popular! hen working with wet enough to release the proofed doughs. respected, appreciated and doughs, bakers will often A 4:1 ratio is sufficient and small enough I would like to say one last word about the FDA classification of Whole encounter difficulty with not to alter the flavor of your bread. celebrated. We are passionate Wheat Bread that I talked about in this newsletter two issues ago. To my the coucheing during surprise, only a handful of bakers were interested in the article. For the first Wproduction. Far too often, the shaped Another option is a bran/whole wheat about sharing our knowledge time, the FDA is going to identify what whole wheat or grain should be before loaves will stick to the couche or lined mixture. This will prevent any sticking the label is applied. I guarantee you—the big boys are whispering in the ears banneton. One way to prevent this is to and add a rustic look to your breads. and enthusiasm with students of the FDA. It is time to get an organization involved to represent the real excessively flour the banneton or couche I have also found that a semolina/bread and clients in an effort to quality bread baker. On page five of this newsletter, we have included some with your bread flour—but let’s not do information from the FDA’s website to give you more perspective on this that! flour mixture, commonly used with important issue. ciabatta, also adapts well to any wet raise the level of the craft. Some bakers prefer using a bread dough. continued on page 10 flour/rice flour mixture for dusting the couche or banneton. A small amount of rice flour added to your bread flour will do wonders to keep your couche dry

2 11 letter from michel, cont. “[Breadbaking is] one of preferments: are they over-rated? those almost hypnotic

continued from page 2 businesses, like a dance continued from page 1 from some ancient Call your local bread or baking U.S. Food and Drug Administration– ceremony. It leaves With preferments, the baker introduces a I have produced straight dough breads association, the RBA, Bread Bakers FDA relatively high concentration of organic with very good color and crumb Guilds of America and others to make website: www.fda.gov you filled with one of acids that promote dough maturation structure with as low as 68% hydration, sure the FDA hear your side about what phone: 888.INFO.FDA the world’s sweetest and flavor development. as much as 2% yeast (fresh), and improved the quality standard should be for whole 888.463.6332 mixing. To be fair, I will say that the wheat bread and wheat bread. This is a smells ... there is no Because these preferments are produced resulting bread lacks the complexity window of opportunity that you should Retail Bakers of America—RBA outside of the actual production time of of flavor and keeping quality of either chiropractic treatment, 70% Hydration Straight Dough not miss! website: www.rbanet.com the daily bread (usually while the baker a longer fermented straight dough or Baguette Section phone: 800.638.0924 no Yoga exercise, no sleeps), the time from bowl to bench I urge you not to disregard this call. hour of meditation in a (and oven) is significantly reduced at the Barbara Schneeman is the director of The Bread Bakers Guild of America same time as the rheological qualities of I have produced straight the FDA for nutritional labeling. Here website: www.bbga.org music-throbbing chapel the dough and the flavor and texture of is some contact information, for your phone: 412.823.2080 the bread are enhanced. dough breads with very convenience: that will leave you emptier of bad thoughts With straight dough, the conditioning good color and crumb organic acids are produced in the dough structure with as low as than this homely during the bulk fermentation; hence, ceremony of making the longer floor times required to get 68% hydration, as much good bread. The amount of acids and as 2% yeast (fresh), and bread.” the proportion of different enzymes will M. F. K. Fisher, The Art of Eating not be the same in a straight dough as in improved mixing. dough made with either poolish or biga.

78% Hydration Straight Dough bread made with preferments. More help a student: buy a proofing basket! Baguette Section water helps. Mixing less and adding a The amount of acids fold also helps. The key with this dough and the proportion of is to allow as much bulk fermentation hanks to a donation Rattan banneton baskets as you can without the dough getting All proceeds go to from Trader Joe’s, SFBI lined with linen: different enzymes will bucky. Seventy five minutes seems to be the non-profit Tis happy to offer a line of not be the same in a ideal—more than ninety and you lose high-quality proofing baskets as Sizes: extensibility. Much less than seventy five straight dough as in minutes and the bread will lack good San Francisco a fund-raiser for our Scholarship 8” Diameter - 4-1/4” H: TRA-B8 crumb structure. But it is possible to Organization. All proceeds from Dough Weight: 1 to 1.5 lbs. dough made with either Baking Scholarship have bread out of the oven in just over the sales of these baskets will Price: $8.00 each poolish or biga. Organization. go directly to our non-profit three and a half hours from when it scholarship organization, which 10” Diameter - 4-3/4” H: TRA-B10 comes out of the bowl. helps economically challenged Dough Weight: 1.5 to 2 lbs. In a pinch, I have made straight dough students with their baking The wetter conditions of a poolish are Price: $10.00 each ciabatta by the formula in the last education tuition at SFBI. said to favor the production of protease, paragraph, but with 80% hydration and 12” Diameter - 6” H: TRA-B12 which conditions the gluten, producing more mixing and folds, and a longer bulk Your purchase will help a student Dough Weight: 3 to 4 lbs. a more extensible and softer dough and Baguette Section, Straight Dough fermentation. TRA-B12 who is passionate about baking Price: $12.00 each allowing for the development of a more 70% Hydration, 2% Yeast irregular crumb with larger alveoles. To Flour W=250; P Over L=0.79. and pastry afford professional I really don’t recommend making bread training—and it’s tax deductible! Call 650.589.5724 achieve similar qualities with straight TRA-B8 as a regular part of production with such dough, it is more important that the TRA-B10 Please help SFBI build our to place your order. a high percentage of yeast and relatively P/L of the flour is in the proper range, scholarship fund for the many short floor time. deserving students who need a that the dough is ideally hydrated, and little help with tuition by placing that you don’t over develop the dough an order for baskets today! either in mixing and folding or during dividing, pre-shaping, and molding. continued on page 4

10 3 Changing careers or want preferments: are they over-rated? start fresh: to jump-start your baking career? Earn your diploma from our continued from page 3 begin a career in baking intensive Professional Training

But by reducing the yeast to one percent Obviously, there are instances where you Actual dough hydration and mix time f you are committed to starting a new Program and realize your dreams! and correspondingly increasing the floor cannot eliminate the preferment in a formula. will vary slightly depending upon flour. career as a baker, or enhancing your time (to two to three hours, with hourly If a bread is leavened entirely or primarily Icurrent career in the baking industry, folds), very good bread can be made. with levain, be it liquid, dough consistency, or Method our Bread & Pastry Professional Training rye sour, there is no substitute. You can only invest in your I have introduced a 20 minute autolyse to Program will give you the foundation you Why would you ever want to make eliminate yeast-risen preferments and still get the procedure after a brief incorporation need to achieve success. straight dough breads in your bakery, anything that will pass for bread. of only the flour and water. While it will future SFBI recognizes that not every student vary with type and brand of mixer, after Even if nothing ever goes wrong with has the time and budget available for a the autolyse, I use a short mix time of six Join a profession with a legacy of If your formulas are your preferments and customers never year or more of training. At the same minutes in my countertop Agiv Forni SP quality, dedication and honor and written in baker’s percent want to make late changes to their time, you want to be sure you receive the begin a career in an industry that orders, there may be a place for one 5, or four minutes on low in a Loiselet very best education available. We designed continues to thrive and grow in any format, it will be a simple or two straight dough products in your spiral mixer. what: our progressive program to meet these Bread & Pastry Professional economic climate. repertoire. specific needs. calculation to adapt your The dough should not be completely Training Program smooth when done mixing. Dough Develop life-long skills in a profession formula to straight dough. The bread I have made from the formula Our highly concentrated, focused temperature of 74F coming out of the that offers security, flexibility and that follows is good in its own right, with curriculum includes an unusually when: The only ingredient you unique and complex flavor, beautiful bowl. Bulk ferment at ambient bakery creativity. temperature—74F-76F. Give the dough high level of hands-on practice and The next session runs from should have to adjust is creamy-colored crumb, and an irregular, deliberately small class sizes. In our full folds at twenty, fourty, and sixty June 5 to October 6, 2006 Train in a professional environment open crumb. The total production time spacious facility, just a short drive from the yeast. minutes, then leave undisturbed for an that balances theory with hands-on may be longer than your other breads, but downtown San Francisco, we offer a the total work time probably is the same. additional two hours. The dough will learning and focuses on the skills technologically advanced, welcoming where: be stronger and smoother with each Train at SFBI’s facility, just you need in the real world of additional fold. At the end of the two environment where we introduce students a few minutes from the baking today. especially if you are now making good hours of undisturbed bulk fermentation, to artisan baking at its best. breads with preferments and the making White Dough for Baguette a one of the most beautiful the dough will be soft and quite Working Bakers of the preferments is already part of the L’ancienne and Pugliese-style extensible, but should exhibit maturity Visit us online at www.sfbi.com for cities in the world. Learn Enhance your career and your bakery culture? Ever have someone Loaves and significant aeration. a fully detailed curriculum along in a production-sized salary with new cutting-edge skills forget to make your poolish? Or have with information about tuition and environment, with small th Bakers’ percent: and a deeper understanding of the a favored customer call needing an 11 Divide into appropriate loaf-sizes, round class sizes, spacious Flour 100 housing, or call us at 650.589.5784 baking arts. hour increase in their order? gently after dividing (if you’re making bakery classrooms and Water 78 baguettes) and rest for 20-30 minutes. and ask for an application package technologically advanced Aspiring Bakers Rather than losing sales, it is possible Yeast 1.0 (fresh) Shape and encouche. Use a gentle touch to be mailed or emailed to you. to have bread that, though perhaps not Salt 1.6 in final shaping to preserve the delicate equipment. Changing careers or opening a quite the same as your usual product, structure of the soft dough. Final proof bakery? SFBI’s Bread and Pastry will, if made with care, keep your should be 60 minutes. why: Professional Training Program gives customers in bread, and probably still be The only school in the United you the skills and knowledge you This dough is adapted from a formula better than anything else in town. The short mix time will preserve the States dedicated exclusively need to get started. given to me by Todd Hancock of Blue yellow pigments in the flour. The to artisan baking, SFBI offers If your formulas are written in baker’s Dog Bakery in Louisville, KY. Todd relatively high hydration, long bulk Owners and Bakery Managers you the unique opportunity to percent format, it will be a simple told me that it was derived from the fermentation, and gentle handling will Grow your business with the calculation to adapt your formula to train in an environment where proprietary and licensed Retrodor contribute to an open, irregular crumb. employees you send to train at straight dough. The only ingredient you formula of the Viron family mill in baking never takes a backseat All of these factors, together with the SFBI. Benefit from the enthusiasm should have to adjust is the yeast. The France. 3-hour bulk fermentation, will allow to other culinary learning. and loyalty that a good education flour and water amounts are calculated the development of a complex flavor, by simply adding together the respective I have used flour both at 11% protein brings to young people with an but still allow the flavor of the flour to how: interest in their work. Give back quantities from both the preferment and and with nearly 12%, both with good come through. the final dough. For a three hour bulk results. W values ranged from 250 to 300. Apply on line at www.sfbi.com to the baking community and ferment use 1% yeast and 2% for 75-90 P/L: 0.73 to 0.90. Ash is approximately Apply for our next Bread and or call us for more information help contribute to its continued minutes. 0.50, but not below 0.48 or over 0.54. continued on page 8 Pastry Professional Training at 650.589.5784. growth by helping to build the next Program by May 5, 2006! generation of artisan bakers.

4 9 two formulas: continued from page 4 fda guidelines: straight vs. sponge The baguettes from this formula have extremely what is whole wheat? irregular yellowish crumb, and the cuts display good grigne. The crumb is a little chewier than ou can experiment for yourself with the following two he following information about “One of the most important decisions people consumers eat should be whole grains. my usual baguette, but this is typical of lightly formulas to explore some of the concepts discussed in this the FDA’s plans for establishing can make about their health is the choice of foods Eat at least 3 ounces of whole-grain mixed doughs. issue’s feature article by Thom Leonard. These formulas are new guidelines for whole wheat they eat,” said Dr. Scott Gottlieb, FDA’s cereals, breads, crackers, rice or pasta for Pain Ordinaire, everyday white bread: one with sponge, classification was extracted from: Deputy Commissioner for Medical and every day. One ounce is about 1 slice of Twww.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/flgragui.html Scientific Affairs. “A top priority at FDA is bread, 1 cup of breakfast cereal or 1/2 Yone straight. If you give these a try, let us know what you think! In truth, I don’t think finding additional ways to clearly communicate cup of cooked rice or pasta. Consumers • The flour is 11.0% protein; W=275, P/L=0.75-0.95; preferments are over-rated, You can visit the site yourself to see this the health benefits found in food.” should also look to see that grains such as Unbleached, malted and only rarely are they press release from the FDA, along with wheat, rice, oats or corn are referred to as • Yeast quantities are for instant yeast. much more detailed information about The FDA document clarifies that the “whole” in the list of ingredients. • Loaves can be shaped into either baguettes or batards. over-used. They do their proposed labeling requirements. agency considers “whole grain” to include cereal grains that consist of the intact, Currently, manufacturers can also make Sponge % everything that’s claimed: ground, cracked or flaked fruit of the factual statements about whole grains on flour 20 overnight biga increase flavor, improve Guidance for Industry and FDA Staff grains whose principal components—the food labels such as “10 grams of whole water 11 Whole Grain Label Statements starchy endosperm, germ and bran—are grains” or “1/2 ounce of whole grains.” yeast 0.04 texture, and reduce present in the same relative proportions as (biga wt) 31.04 production time. But, the Comments and suggestions regarding they exist in the intact grain. Such grains this draft document should be submitted may include barley, buckwheat, bulgur, Mix biga ingredients until smooth, put in covered tub and allow to straight dough method, within 60 days of publication in the corn, millet, rice, rye, oats, sorghum, ripen overnight at cool room temperature (65-70 F) Federal Register of the notice announcing wheat and wild rice. too, deserves a place in the the availability of the draft guidance. Dough baker’s skill box, as it can be Submit comments to the Division of In contrast, in the grain refining process flour 80 40-60 minutes floor time Dockets Management (HFA-305), Food some of the bran and germ is removed, water 61 90 minutes final proof used in the production of and Drug Administration, 5630 Fishers resulting in a loss of dietary fiber, vitamins salt 2 breads that will meet all of Lane, Rm. 1061, Rockville, MD 20852. and minerals. yeast 0.4 All comments should be identified with yield 174.44 your highest standards. the docket number listed in the notice of The draft guidance states that although Mix all ingredients including biga from above step in bowl; availability that publishes in the Federal rolled and “quick oats” can be called 5 minutes 1st speed, 3 minutes second speed. Register. “whole grains” because they contain Minimally shaped, rustic rounds from this dough all of their bran, germ and endosperm, • Target dough temperature: 74 F. are closer, in both appearance and flavor, to the For questions regarding this draft other widely used food products may not • Bulk ferment 40-60 minutes. Pain Pugliese I had in Italy seventeen years ago document contact Shellee Anderson, meet the “whole grain” definition. For • Divide into loaf-size pieces at 120 minutes; Rest 20 minutes. than anything else I’ve made or eaten in the Food Labeling and Standards Staff (HFS- example, FDA does not consider products • Shape loaves and encouche. intervening years. I’m quite certain that delicious 820), Office of Nutritional Products, derived from legumes (soybeans), oilseeds • Final proof 90 minutes at ambient temperature. bread from Panificio Pulgiese—the very best I ate Labeling and Dietary Supplements, (sunflower seeds) and roots (arrowroot) • Bake (batards) at 450 F for 27-30 minutes. in two months in Italy—was made with a biga Center for Food Safety and Applied as “whole grains.” The draft guidance preferment. Nutrition, 5100 Paint Branch Parkway, specifically recommends that pizza only Straight Dough, Unmalted Flour, Long Fermentation College Park, Maryland 20740 be labeled as “whole grain” or “whole In truth, I don’t think preferments are over-rated, phone: (301) 436-2371 wheat” when its crust is made entirely flour 100.00 and only rarely are they over-used. They do e-mail: [email protected] from whole grain flours or whole wheat water 72.00 everything that’s claimed: increase flavor, improve flour, respectively. salt 1.80 120 minutes floor time texture, and reduce production time. But, the FDA Provides Guidance on “Whole yeast 0.33 fold once at 60 minutes straight dough method, too, deserves a place Grain” for Manufacturers “The food label is the best tool we have to help yield 174.13 in the baker’s skill box, as it can be used in the consumers choose a healthy diet, which includes production of breads that will meet all of your The Food and Drug Administration • Incorporate flour and water; autolyse 20 minutes. whole grain products,” said Dr. Robert E. highest standards. has issued draft guidance on what the • Add salt and yeast—mix 3 minutes low, 3 minutes high in spiral mixer. Brackett, director of FDA’s Center for term “whole grain” may include. The • Target dough temperature: 74 F. Food Safety and Applied Nutrition. Thom Leonard is the Bakery Manager at WheatFields guidance will assist manufacturers with • Fold dough at 60 minutes. Bakery and Café in Lawrence, Kansas. There’s not what the FDA considers appropriate for The draft guidance is part of the federal • Divide into loaf-size pieces at 120 minutes. a loaf that comes out of the Llopis oven that doesn’t food label statements related to “whole government’s long-standing effort to advise • Rest 20 minutes. contain levain, poolish, or rye sour. At least two daily grain” content. Consumers will now be consumers about healthy food choices. • Shape loaves and encouche. varieties have two different preferments. We think he’s able to make dietary choices based on a The 2005 Dietary Guidelines for Americans • Final proof 90 minutes at ambient temperature. just blowing smoke here, and that’s what we love about term that is consistent and reliable. recommend that half of the grain that • Bake (batards) at 450 F for 27-30 minutes. this newsletter ... Please send us your article!

8 5

�� sfbi 2006�� course�� schedule��

�� with Guest Instructor, Didier Rosada ��

�� how to register quick class facts �� • Register on line at www.sfbi.com or call 650.589.5784 • All courses run from Monday-Friday. �� to register over the phone. • Courses begin at 8:30am on Monday and 8:00am for the rest �� of the week. Classes end at approximately 4:00pm each day. �� • Tuition for all classes is $980; tuition includes daily lunch. • Acceptable attire is a white chef’s coat or white shirt and �� Sign up for 2 classes within a 12 month period and receive checked pants. Hat optional. Wear comfortable non-skid shoes. �� a 10% discount on the second class: total price is $1,862. �� • Bring a notebook, writing utensils and a calculator to class. �� • A 50% deposit is required to reserve your space in class Camera optional. �� payable by check, cash or credit card (MasterCard, VISA, • As a courtesy to our instructors and fellow students, mobile American Express). The remaining amount is due on phones must be shut off or left on “vibrate” mode during class. the first day of class. • SFBI offers special rates at select hotels near our campus. Most of these hotels offer direct shuttle service to and from our school. Please see our website www.sfbi.com for a complete list or call us at 650.589.5784 for details. 6 7 two formulas: continued from page 4 fda guidelines: straight vs. sponge The baguettes from this formula have extremely what is whole wheat? irregular yellowish crumb, and the cuts display good grigne. The crumb is a little chewier than ou can experiment for yourself with the following two he following information about “One of the most important decisions people consumers eat should be whole grains. my usual baguette, but this is typical of lightly formulas to explore some of the concepts discussed in this the FDA’s plans for establishing can make about their health is the choice of foods Eat at least 3 ounces of whole-grain mixed doughs. issue’s feature article by Thom Leonard. These formulas are new guidelines for whole wheat they eat,” said Dr. Scott Gottlieb, FDA’s cereals, breads, crackers, rice or pasta for Pain Ordinaire, everyday white bread: one with sponge, classification was extracted from: Deputy Commissioner for Medical and every day. One ounce is about 1 slice of Twww.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/flgragui.html Scientific Affairs. “A top priority at FDA is bread, 1 cup of breakfast cereal or 1/2 Yone straight. If you give these a try, let us know what you think! In truth, I don’t think finding additional ways to clearly communicate cup of cooked rice or pasta. Consumers • The flour is 11.0% protein; W=275, P/L=0.75-0.95; preferments are over-rated, You can visit the site yourself to see this the health benefits found in food.” should also look to see that grains such as Unbleached, malted and only rarely are they press release from the FDA, along with wheat, rice, oats or corn are referred to as • Yeast quantities are for instant yeast. much more detailed information about The FDA document clarifies that the “whole” in the list of ingredients. • Loaves can be shaped into either baguettes or batards. over-used. They do their proposed labeling requirements. agency considers “whole grain” to include cereal grains that consist of the intact, Currently, manufacturers can also make Sponge % everything that’s claimed: ground, cracked or flaked fruit of the factual statements about whole grains on flour 20 overnight biga increase flavor, improve Guidance for Industry and FDA Staff grains whose principal components—the food labels such as “10 grams of whole water 11 Whole Grain Label Statements starchy endosperm, germ and bran—are grains” or “1/2 ounce of whole grains.” yeast 0.04 texture, and reduce present in the same relative proportions as (biga wt) 31.04 production time. But, the Comments and suggestions regarding they exist in the intact grain. Such grains this draft document should be submitted may include barley, buckwheat, bulgur, Mix biga ingredients until smooth, put in covered tub and allow to straight dough method, within 60 days of publication in the corn, millet, rice, rye, oats, sorghum, ripen overnight at cool room temperature (65-70 F) Federal Register of the notice announcing wheat and wild rice. too, deserves a place in the the availability of the draft guidance. Dough baker’s skill box, as it can be Submit comments to the Division of In contrast, in the grain refining process flour 80 40-60 minutes floor time Dockets Management (HFA-305), Food some of the bran and germ is removed, water 61 90 minutes final proof used in the production of and Drug Administration, 5630 Fishers resulting in a loss of dietary fiber, vitamins salt 2 breads that will meet all of Lane, Rm. 1061, Rockville, MD 20852. and minerals. yeast 0.4 All comments should be identified with yield 174.44 your highest standards. the docket number listed in the notice of The draft guidance states that although Mix all ingredients including biga from above step in bowl; availability that publishes in the Federal rolled and “quick oats” can be called 5 minutes 1st speed, 3 minutes second speed. Register. “whole grains” because they contain Minimally shaped, rustic rounds from this dough all of their bran, germ and endosperm, • Target dough temperature: 74 F. are closer, in both appearance and flavor, to the For questions regarding this draft other widely used food products may not • Bulk ferment 40-60 minutes. Pain Pugliese I had in Italy seventeen years ago document contact Shellee Anderson, meet the “whole grain” definition. For • Divide into loaf-size pieces at 120 minutes; Rest 20 minutes. than anything else I’ve made or eaten in the Food Labeling and Standards Staff (HFS- example, FDA does not consider products • Shape loaves and encouche. intervening years. I’m quite certain that delicious 820), Office of Nutritional Products, derived from legumes (soybeans), oilseeds • Final proof 90 minutes at ambient temperature. bread from Panificio Pulgiese—the very best I ate Labeling and Dietary Supplements, (sunflower seeds) and roots (arrowroot) • Bake (batards) at 450 F for 27-30 minutes. in two months in Italy—was made with a biga Center for Food Safety and Applied as “whole grains.” The draft guidance preferment. Nutrition, 5100 Paint Branch Parkway, specifically recommends that pizza only Straight Dough, Unmalted Flour, Long Fermentation College Park, Maryland 20740 be labeled as “whole grain” or “whole In truth, I don’t think preferments are over-rated, phone: (301) 436-2371 wheat” when its crust is made entirely flour 100.00 and only rarely are they over-used. They do e-mail: [email protected] from whole grain flours or whole wheat water 72.00 everything that’s claimed: increase flavor, improve flour, respectively. salt 1.80 120 minutes floor time texture, and reduce production time. But, the FDA Provides Guidance on “Whole yeast 0.33 fold once at 60 minutes straight dough method, too, deserves a place Grain” for Manufacturers “The food label is the best tool we have to help yield 174.13 in the baker’s skill box, as it can be used in the consumers choose a healthy diet, which includes production of breads that will meet all of your The Food and Drug Administration • Incorporate flour and water; autolyse 20 minutes. whole grain products,” said Dr. Robert E. highest standards. has issued draft guidance on what the • Add salt and yeast—mix 3 minutes low, 3 minutes high in spiral mixer. Brackett, director of FDA’s Center for term “whole grain” may include. The • Target dough temperature: 74 F. Food Safety and Applied Nutrition. Thom Leonard is the Bakery Manager at WheatFields guidance will assist manufacturers with • Fold dough at 60 minutes. Bakery and Café in Lawrence, Kansas. There’s not what the FDA considers appropriate for The draft guidance is part of the federal • Divide into loaf-size pieces at 120 minutes. a loaf that comes out of the Llopis oven that doesn’t food label statements related to “whole government’s long-standing effort to advise • Rest 20 minutes. contain levain, poolish, or rye sour. At least two daily grain” content. Consumers will now be consumers about healthy food choices. • Shape loaves and encouche. varieties have two different preferments. We think he’s able to make dietary choices based on a The 2005 Dietary Guidelines for Americans • Final proof 90 minutes at ambient temperature. just blowing smoke here, and that’s what we love about term that is consistent and reliable. recommend that half of the grain that • Bake (batards) at 450 F for 27-30 minutes. this newsletter ... Please send us your article!

8 5

Changing careers or want preferments: are they over-rated? start fresh: to jump-start your baking career? Earn your diploma from our continued from page 3 begin a career in baking intensive Professional Training

4 9 letter from michel, cont. “[Breadbaking is] one of preferments: are they over-rated? those almost hypnotic

10 3 from michel: about sfbi recipe of the season: prevent oven fire hazards white whole wheat croissant Michel Suas, Founder/President ince 1996, the San ard White Wheat is mostly • Desired Dough Temperature: 74 F. �� grown in California, Kansas, �� • Mixing: Improved Mix with 20 id you know that sometimes a fire can start �� Francisco Baking in your bakery without the telltale signs Idaho and Montana and minute Autolyse. is increasingly milled as a �� • Fermentation: 1 hour at room and warning of flames? Every year I hear �� Institute (SFBI) has Hwhole grain. Because the bran is white, �� temperature, then 8-12 hours about an oven catching on fire in the bakery Dwithout warning! Most often, these types of fires start in the appearance of the flour is a creamy �� under refrigeration. trained hundreds the electric deck oven. Since there are no flames, the fire golden color. The flavor of Hard White • Lamination: 3 single folds - 30 Wheat is not as intense as a whole wheat �� Sof professional and aspiring can burn for a while undetected. minute rest between folds. Michel Suas flour milled from Hard Red Winter �� • Make-up: Traditional croissant or These fires actually start on top of the oven—on the side of, or inside, the wheat; it is sweeter and smoother due savory croissant. bakers from all over the �� hood exhaust pipe. This is caused by an accumulation of flour inside the to the lack of Carotenoid pigments • Proofing: 78 F for 90 minutes. insulation or the pipes. In restaurants, the maintenance of the hood and resulting in less tannin. Some people �� • Baking: Brush with a light coat of world. We have acted as the may wonder—why make a whole wheat cleaning of the shaft have to be monitored constantly to remove the greases. �� egg wash. Bake at 385 F convection �� Fire Marshals do not require these same stringent rules for bakeries. Silos croissant? Croissants are inherently rich �� with 2 seconds of steam for 12 unofficial training site for in butter and why diffuse that with are what they are most concerned about—to prevent potential explosions. �� minutes.** Explosions can start with a spark of electrical contact or motor and a certain whole grain? Using white whole wheat several award-winning flour provides a unique spin on the percentage of flour in the air. Flour exposed to constant heat will ignite with �� *Dough hydration will vary depending on wheat. darker whole wheat croissant. So long Baking USA Teams no flames. �� as fermentation and lamination is carried �� **Baking time, steam duration and oven �� temperature will vary according to equipment. Damages can be quite vast, especially when the fire department is out properly, the buttery, flaky, richness and hosted a variety of �� can be enjoyed with added health �� forced to hose down your equipment. If you have only one oven, the �� international groups—from consequences can be even worse, as it might take days before your oven is benefits of the whole grain. *Roll-in butter is a percentage of the total dough. operating again. countries including Russia, China and Japan—interested Every year I hear about an oven catching “The table is the only place where one is never bored during the first hour.” on fire in the bakery without warning! Most in bringing artisan baking Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826) often, these types of fires start in the electric back to their homelands. deck oven. SFBI is recognized within baker’s tip: preventing wet couche the baking industry as a place A regular vacuuming on the top and side of the oven is necessary at least by Tim Kitzman, Baking & Pastry Instructor where artisan baking is twice a year—the same for the hood and pipes. “Bread Flambé” with a high carbon content is not very popular! hen working with wet enough to release the proofed doughs. respected, appreciated and doughs, bakers will often A 4:1 ratio is sufficient and small enough I would like to say one last word about the FDA classification of Whole encounter difficulty with not to alter the flavor of your bread. celebrated. We are passionate Wheat Bread that I talked about in this newsletter two issues ago. To my the coucheing during surprise, only a handful of bakers were interested in the article. For the first Wproduction. Far too often, the shaped Another option is a bran/whole wheat about sharing our knowledge time, the FDA is going to identify what whole wheat or grain should be before loaves will stick to the couche or lined mixture. This will prevent any sticking the label is applied. I guarantee you—the big boys are whispering in the ears banneton. One way to prevent this is to and add a rustic look to your breads. and enthusiasm with students of the FDA. It is time to get an organization involved to represent the real excessively flour the banneton or couche I have also found that a semolina/bread and clients in an effort to quality bread baker. On page five of this newsletter, we have included some with your bread flour—but let’s not do information from the FDA’s website to give you more perspective on this that! flour mixture, commonly used with important issue. ciabatta, also adapts well to any wet raise the level of the craft. Some bakers prefer using a bread dough. continued on page 10 flour/rice flour mixture for dusting the couche or banneton. A small amount of rice flour added to your bread flour will do wonders to keep your couche dry

2 11