August 2006 420 Fraser Street, Lytton, B.C. Issue 7 Number 3

dian National and the Canadian Pacific Railways at Cisco on Friday, August History In The Making 4th, closed the primary rail routes across Canada completely. Fortunately, the Cisco derailment was fairly minor, and only required a day and a half to clean up. Trains were moving again by Saturday afternoon, but only on the Canadian Pacific track through the Thompson Canyon. With the bridge functional and the river clean-up scheduled to start after the salmon runs and the wreckage gradu- ally disappearing, this incident will fade into history. We hope that the clean-up of the river will clear up some of the questions about the previous wreck. Rumours of a locomotive hidden in deep water may be confirmed or disproved and the car wheels in the river may be recovered for the Museum.

Just after 11 p.m. Monday, July 31st, bridge, but twelve plunged into the The following page shows a few pic- 2006, an estimated twenty Canadian river below. tures of this incident. Pacific coal cars left the track on the Thankfully, no one was hurt, however Canadian National railway bridge over as much as 1,200 tonnes of coal were IN THIS ISSUE: the Thompson River. dumped into the river, and an estimated History in the Making - Train Wreck.. 1 Reports have varied, so the exact num- six cars were completely submerged. Railway Bridges in the ber of cars and amount of coal spilled is The debris visible above at the foot of ...... 3 still uncertain several weeks later. Some the east end pier of the bridge is what is Lytton Alfalfa...... 4 accounts have eight cars on the bridge, left of six coal cars and their loads. Chief David Spintlum...... 5 but Joe Chute’s pictures, taken early on Meet Our Staff...... 7 August 1st, show seven. Some reports A massive rebuilding effort was put into had the train at ninety-nine cars, others motion, with the re-opening of the main Echos of the Past...... 8 at one hundred and twenty-two or one line as the primary objective. Where Are They?...... 8 hundred and twenty-four. A second derailment just south of Lytton Seven of the cars remained on the on the transfer track between the Cana- Page  Friday, and the only remaining obstruction is the severely damaged span at the east end of the bridge. This span had the ties literally split in half, with a car and several wheel sets falling in on the supporting beams and braces inside the truss.

The morning after — seven cars remaining on the bridge and an estimated twelve over the side, the Canadian National Railway crews had a huge job ahead to re-open the mainline across Canada. The worst damage was at the east end of the bridge.

By early Monday the rails were once again joined to complete the trans-Canada link. While the repairs continued, trains were allowed to travel the bridge for the first time in a week.

By early Monday afternoon, the crews had moved heavy equipment in to empty the loaded coal cars still on the bridge. As the coal was moved to waiting dump trucks, the cars were torn apart by the loaders to move farther onto the bridge.

The freight goes through! A massive effort to re-open the The operation went on twenty-four hours a day, with huge lights railway, but the bridge needs railings, internal repair and turning the Thompson Canyon into near daylight brightness. By improvements before the slow movement order can be lifted. Tuesday night, the west end of the bridge had been cleared. All photos courtesy Joe Chute Page  The Railway Bridges In The Fraser Canyon Submitted by Joe Chute. In 1880, Andrew Onderdonk, construc- tion engineer, was awarded contracts to construct a railroad from Port Moody to Savona. His headquarters were to be in the lower Fraser Canyon. Speculators bought up land by Emory Creek, between Yale and Hope. Lots were surveyed and sold as being the headquarters for the railroad construc- tion. However, the dreams of the pro- moters were dashed when Onderdonk selected Yale as his base of operations. The west bank of the Fraser was selected as the road-bed for the new Canadian Pacific Railway. By 1882, the track had reached the spot now known as Cisco. The survey party The Canadian Pacific bridge at Cisco being assembled. Note the men on the beams informed Onderdonk that the Fraser being swung into place. should be crossed to take advantage The parts were fabricated and shipped to the west coast of Canada. The mate- of the easier construction on the east on a sailing ship called the ‘Stormy rial was transferred to stern wheelers side. Petrel’ and arrived at New Westminster and transported to Yale, where it was after having to sail around Cape Horn, brought to Cisco by train. A bridge was ordered from England. the southern tip of South America, to get A highline was set up to move the materials across the Fraser. It soon be- came obvious that someone had made a mistake, as the bridge work would not line up with the stone pillars which had been set up to support the bridge. This necessitated that the pillars had to be dismantled and moved to fit the bridge. History does not indicate who made the error, Onderdonk’s engineers or the bridge builders. However, the bridge was assembled and the railway con- tracts were completed. (This Cantilever bridge was later replaced by the present bridge at Cisco, and became part of the Esquimalt and Railway.) The second railway through the canyon was the Canadian Northern Railway. It had reached Prince Rupert via the Yellowhead Pass. Seeing that the CPR was doing well in the and The completed cantilever bridge crossing the Fraser River. Vancouver area, the Canadian Northern Courtesy Canadian Pacific Archives decided to run a line south, through the continued onPage 4… Page  LYTTON ALFALFA tury. Men coming from the California alfalfa of Lytton in the 1920’s and gold rush of 1849-1855 to the 1930’s quite famous. While browsing through our collection gold rush of 1859-1865 had seeded al- End of quote. This writer has seen many of B.C. Historical News magazines, we falfa of California origin to feed horses, samples of self-seeded alfalfa with came across an article we felt might be camels and other domesticated animals blooms of deep purple, light purple, of interest to our local ranchers. It was on the terraces of the Fraser, Thompson yellow and white as close as the ditch written by Dr. V.C. Brink, a plant pro- and Nicola rivers. Lytton alfalfa seed along Kent Road in Lytton. fessor at U.B.C., who worked with G.G. sold readily in the middle western states. Moe and did research in the Lytton area At the same time shiploads of dusty, with anthropologist Wayne Suttles. weed and disease laden plants of alfalfa came to West Coast ports from Asia. In The article follows in its entirety: the last century individual plants would Continued from Page 3 In the 1920’s for a few years the little live for decades, some perhaps for 50 Railway Bridges town of Lytton, B.C. was famous in years until the introduction in the 1940’s Fraser Canyon. To avoid the CPR right- North American agriculture - famous of diseases such as bacterial and wilt. of-way, it essentially had to take the for its alfalfa seed and famous for a Unfortunately, much of the seed export- route which the CPR had rejected. controversy the seed engendered. ed from Lytton and elsewhere produced At the time that it reached the Lytton It may be hard to realize today but in plants which were not usually able to area (1912/13), Lytton was an impor- the early 1920’s alfalfa was not the survive the winters of the Central States tant distribution center for the interior important crop it is today over most and Ontario. Lytton seed was roundly of . To cross over of our continent and over the world. condemned by agronomists such as “Al- to the west bank, to get involved in In much of Canada today we see it in falfa” Graber of Wisconsin and demand transporting goods to and from Lytton, fields, seeding naturally on roadsides for it dropped. two bridges were built, one at each end and natural grasslands. There was a good result nonetheless. of the town. When Cisco was reached In the first decade of this century, al- Legislation was passed in Canada and another bridge was built to avoid the falfa cultivation was almost entirely in the USA to certify seeds as to country CPR. It was the Canadian Northern confined to the Southwestern States of origin and breeding programs were railway which caused the rock slide and Mexico. There non-winter hardy started to develop winter hardy strains. which blocked the river during a salmon narrow-crowned Spanish type alfalfa Hardy strains came from areas such as spawning time at Hell’s Gate. was grown. In a very few places and Ladak in the Himalayas of Northern By 1918, several railways were in fi- on very limited acreages in Ontario, India and from species of alfalfa native nancial trouble, probably caused by too New York and Virginia somewhat more to Russia and Siberia. One breeding rapid expansion of rail lines, draining winter-hardy strains mainly of German program initiated by L.S. Klinck, Dean their resources. One of these compa- origin had been established. Then in of Agriculture, and later President of nies was the ‘Canadian Government the years immediately before and dur- the youthful University of B.C. hy- Railway’, which had just received a ing the 1914-1918 war, the virtues of bridized winter hardy plants from the shipment of new boxcars, one of which German type alfalfa - its perenniality, Don Valley of Russia with Ontario later became Lytton’s caboose. Another its high yields and nitrogen-fixing ca- Variegated German type plants; winter railway was the Canadian Northern pabilities were recognized and extolled hardy “Rhizoma” type plants produced Railway. The Government combined by men such as Lyman in Minnesota by G.G. Moe and others associated with these and other troubled railways to (sponsoring Grimm type alfalfa) and this program became widely used by form a new company, the ‘Canadian Zavitz at the Ontario agricultural Col- other breeding programs in many parts National Railway’. lege in Guelph (sponsoring the Ontario of the world. variegated strain). The demand for seed This new company now had all of the New disease-resistant winter-hardy rose rapidly. assets of the railways involved: the alfalfa varieties steadily replace the right-of-ways, tracks, locomotives, The rising demand and high prices for old but in the Dry Interior of B.C. one railway cars, stations, bridges, etc. alfalfa seed drew the attention of alfalfa can still see some plants in the alfalfas Lytton’s caboose thus became a CNR growers in and around Lytton and in the of roadside, grassland and field with boxcar. The bridges at each end of town Nicola Valley where Spanish type alfal- characteristics of form, flower, colour became CNR bridges. fas had been grown for most of a cen- and seed which made the Spanish type continued onPage 7… Page  Chief David Spintlum (Cexpe’nthlEm) 1812 -1888

A gathering of Chiefs and notables at the Spintlum cairn in 1927. Note the cairn is set on the ground here, while it is presently on a concrete base. Photo Lytton & District Centennial Society Fonds The greatest chief of the Thompson Indi- wealthy man, with many horses and potlatches every 3 or 4 years, at which ans in recent times was Cexpen’nthlEm, several wives. he distributed blankets and other valu- or Cixpen’ntlam, of Lytton. He was able gifts to all present. Chief Machelle He became Chief of the N’kalapamux known to the whites as Spintlum. He thought very highly of Chief Spintlum in 1850, and at that time, according to and his father and grandfather had and thought of him as his mentor. When Chief Machelle, he held a potlatch for been recognized as the head chiefs Spintlum died, in 1888, Machelle was all the people at which he announced or the most important and influential elected Chief in Spintlum’s place. a bold plan: perpetual peace with the men of the tribe. They had great influ- Lillooets! During the Gold Rush of 1858 there ence all over the tribe, including the was enormous antagonism between Similkameen country and wherever the Spintlum ( or Cexpe’nthlEm) traveled the incoming miners and the Indians, Thompson language was spoken. They to the Shuswap and the , as often leading to bloody encounters. To exerted great influence also among the well as his own tribes on the Thompson quote Cole Harris in “Resettlement of neighbouring Lillooet, Shuswap, and and Fraser Rivers, buying up Lillooet B.C.” : Okanagon, who respected them and paid slaves. He then delivered the slaves, them considerable deference. Their ad- along with a large pack train of presents, “The Lytton War Chief, Cuxcux’sqEt, vice and speeches always commanded to the shores of Lillooet Lake. Here he urged war, as did the Chief from a great deal of attention. Cexpe’nthlEm was met by a large band of armed and Spences Bridge and several others.... had been chief a number of years, and hostile men. but the great Chief, Cexpe’nthlEm was still in his prime when the whites (Spintlum), known as a peacemaker In a great act of personal courage he came to the country in 1858. Through after returning slaves and negotiating a alone went out to meet them. He per- his mother he had both Lillooet and peace with the Stl’atl’imx some years suaded them to lay down their arms and Shuswap blood in his veins. His father before, urged peace, and eventually his come forward to meet his party of peace was a pure Thompson Indian. (from view prevailed. Quite possibly Spintlum makers. He stayed with the Lillooets “Mythology of the Thompson Indians, and the other chiefs thought they were for several days giving presents to all by Teit). dealing with Governor Douglas.” who had relatives killed by his fellow I was unable to find much information “Thompson Warriors”, thus forging a Cole Harris claims they were actually about Chief Spintlum’s early life. He lasting peace with his mother’s kin. dealing with H.M. Snyder, Captain of was a famous war chief, and prior to the Pike Guards, who had no official Chief Machelle claimed that Spintlum 1850 he led many war parties, even capacity whatever, but who threatened was the first to introduce the potlatch to against his mother’s people, the Lil- to bring thousands of soldiers and drive looets. Consequently, he became a very the area. He was very wealthy and gave Page  teachings of the Roman Catholic priests, no white man’s boundaries or posts. If but in 1867 difficulties arose and after the whites have put up posts and divided much consultation among themselves, my country, I do not recognize them. they decided to request instruction from They have not consulted me. They have Rev. J.B. Good, an Anglican missionary broken my house without my consent. from Yale.” This request was apparently All Indian tribes have the same as posts sent by telegram. Rev. Good consented and recognized boundaries, and the to a visit and the rest is history. Chiefs know them since long before the first whites came to the country. Signed: The other version is that Chief Spintlum Cexpe’nthlam (or Spintlum), Head led some 500 Thompson Indians all the Chief of the Nlaka’pamux, 1858.” way to Yale to request that the Anglican priests come to Lytton where they need- I was never able to discover the names ed help. The priests came and baptized of Chief Spintlum’s wives, but he did over 600 men and women. Every year have at least three children, probably the Bishop would come and lead them many more. His daughter, Anna, mar- up to Botannie and stay with them and ried Thomas Benton Hicks, whose the priests. One year, 700 people who granddaughter, Anita Nixon, still res- had been baptized were confirmed. ides in Lytton; Anna’s sister, Susanna, Communion was given by the lake. (The married a Mr. Gottfried in 1861 at St. Bishop still comes for this ceremony, Mary’s Church in Lillooet, and there whenever possible.) was a half-brother, name unknown. them forever into the river. However, The first baptism at St. Paul’s Church Spintlum was born in 1812 and died James Teit in Mythology of the Thomp- took place in June, 1872, when Spintlum in 1888 at the age of 70 years. A great son Indians, claims they did deal with and two dozen others were admitted number of people attended his funeral Governor Douglas in 1858. after a “most searching examination and and ‘paying-off’ ceremony. His grave Had it not been for Spintlum there investigation of character and repute” and memorial marker are in the cem- would certainly have been a war with took place in front of his people. (See etery next to the Lytton Parish Hall. the whites, and much bloodshed would Curator’s note #2) There are reported to be other graves around his, but who is buried there is have resulted. In the matter of territory, Spintlum de- uncertain. The epitaph carved on the clared the following as the land of his In Bishop George Hills 1860 diar- marker apparently includes an error, as people (from James Teit, Unpublished ies (“No Better Land”), he tells of an Queen Victoria never visited Lytton. It field notes 1898-1918): encounter with Spintlum. The Chief was her representative who presented and his son offered the Bishop, whose “All the country to the headwaters: one the Chief with the items mentioned, on party was on foot, horses to use for post up the Fraser at [La Fontaine] - one behalf of the Queen. the remainder of his journey to Lytton. down the Fraser at Spuzzum - one up Curator’s note: The reason this article The Bishop declined the offer, as he the Thompson at Ashcroft - one up the has been written is because every was anxious to complete the journey Nicola River at Quilchena - one down year we receive requests about Chief on foot. However, he felt there was a the at Tcutcuwiza. Spintlum. I have recorded everything I genuine feeling of kindness offered All the country between these posts is can find, which is not really very much. him by Spintlum. Spintlum or his son my country and the lands of my people. Most of the information is from oral checked on his party twice in the next At Lytton is my centrepost. It is the stories which, when written down, can day or two to ensure that they were get- middle of my house, and I sit there. be easily distorted over time. My plea ting on well. All the country to the headwaters of to you, the reader, is please, if you know all the streams running into the valleys In matters of the Anglican Church, anything about Chief Spintlum or his between these posts is also our terri- there are at least two different accounts family or descendants, or if there are tory in which my children gather food. of how the Indians came to accept the any discrepancies in this article that you We extend to meet the boundaries of church. The first was found in Mark know about, please phone, write, e-mail, the hunting territories of other tribes Wade’s book, “The Cariboo Road”: fax the museum with your information. all around over all the country I have I would really appreciate anything you “At one time the Indians followed the spoken of, I have jurisdiction. I know Page  can tell us. Curator’s note #2: This paper was Meet Our Our Staff about to ‘go to press’ when we received the most astonishing surprise! It came insight. She is a gem. In fact I have by way of a donation given to the Yale found most everybody in Lytton to museum and passed on to us by the be warm and cheerful. Thanks for a Curator, Bruce Mason. It is a bible with great summer! the following inscription on the front flyleaf: Elijah Pelzah, Baptized at St. Paul’s Central Mission Church, Lytton, on St. Barnabas Day, June 11th, 1872. Bartholomew New illiken. This is the very ceremony in which Chief Spintlum was baptized!! Bibliography: Bridge River-Lillooet News April 1983 Wild West Magazine Aug. 2005; McGowan’s War - D. Hauka The Cariboo Road — Mark S. Wade The Resettlement of B.C. — Cole Har- ris Hello, my name is Thomas Peglow. Mythology of the Thompson Indians My wife, Lorna, and I moved here al- — Teit most a year ago now from Langley. We No Better Land — Bishop George Hills both really enjoy it here and feel we 1860 made the right decision. Lytton Walking Tour 1997 Stein, the Way of the River — Wickwire, I have had the good fortune to be 1988 able to work this summer at the Museum part time. This has been a Hello everyone, my name is Anna-Ma- most wonderful opportunity for me rie Adams. to get to know some of Lytton’s rich This is my first year at the Museum and Continued from Page 4 history, from a new understanding of so far it has been really exciting! Railway Bridges the local native culture, to getting to I am entering Grade 11 at Stein Valley Lytton’s caboose came into being in know a bit about the early settling Nlahakpmux School and I am 16 years 1953, when the CNR rebuilt several of families in and around Lytton. old. This job is really fun and I have its boxcars into cabooses. Remodeling learned a lot already even though it’s existing cars to fill a current need is By reading articles in the Museum my 2nd week. common practice of railroads. newsletters that are available to everyone, I have learned of the gold There is still a lot to learn about Lytton’s rush days here, and read stories about history but I enjoy learning about Lytton stagecoaches and wagon trails to Lil- and its people. Also I would like to see looet and Spences Bridge. I have met more local people come in and learn people from here who have come more about our history! back to visit, and many interesting visitors, seeing the Museum for the first time as they travel through our little Village. Working with Doro- thy Dodge has added much fun and Page  Belknap were on hand to hear the chair- the form of congratulations by friends. Echos of the Past man of the Village Commission,Mr. T. Lytton Boy Gets Marsh- Taverna deliver an address on the Post More than Aqua Pure for Office steps. He mentioned the Post Lytton mallow Burns on Nose Office had been built by local crafts- men and commended them on their (April 1, 1954) (Jan 20, 1955) workmanship. Permission has been granted for the Teenager James Baker was holding his He recalled former Post Mistress, Mrs. opening of a liquor store in the Village nose this week because of a painful Brophy who so ably conducted the of Lytton. Those wishing to drink other burn received while toasting marshmal- postal business for several decades and than the best water on the continent will lows over at Jimmy Johnson’s skating referred to her, “As the grand old lady soon be able to obtain the flavored va- pond. who served us in the past”. He then rieties obtainable from the B.C. Liquor His marshmallow caught fire and as asked Mrs. A. Anthony, who is another Control Board. This new business will he went to blow out the flame, some- of Lytton’s well known senior pioneer be convenient for the traveling public how the stick on which it was secured, citizens, to cut the ribbon across the who have always wondered why they twisted and the flaming marshmallow entrance. had to travel another fifty miles to the stuck to his nose. As he pulled it off he Postmaster Belknap handed her the scis- nearest source of supply. also pulled off the skin on the end of his sors and also the key to her post box. Jerry McKay Wins Again nose and upper lip. Jimmy Johnson was After the ribbon was cut she opened the on hand and applied first aid and later door and was preceded by the crowd (June 10, 1954) drove him home. who expressed their approval of the At the Inter District meet held at Kam- bright spacious interior. The president loops on Saturday under grey skies and Post Office Opens of the Board of Trade, Mr. A. Vose, a muddy track Jerry McKay of Lytton (July 1.1954) then stepped briskly up to the new low High School, won his race against Ka- wicket and “ Business as usual” began mloops and Lillooet by taking the lead At 9 a.m. Monday morning, with a cool with Mrs. Belknap and Mrs. Frances and keeping it through a steady pace, wind blowing and the temperature at 60 Rebagliati; as assistants to serve the winning the mile by several yards, in a degrees a crowd gathered to watch the waiting crowd. On the counters were time of 5 minutes 21 seconds. His steady opening ceremonies of the new post of- two beautiful baskets of flowers sent in fice. Post Master, H.E. Belknap and Mrs. pace was kept from the start to finish. WHERE ARE THEY? experience, yet it was also a sad one. I Some families that come to mind are the recognized many people who are still Millers, the Manders, the Williams, the in Lytton, and mourned those who are Spinks, the Raphaels, the Samsons, the Our good friend, Gwen Miller, a former no longer among us. The yearbook for Watkinsons, the Rebagliatis, the Rus- Lytton Elementary school teacher, has 1972 was dedicated to the “Kumsheen sells, the Dodges, the O’Dwyers, the sent us a suggestion for what could turn of the Past”, as that was the year our McMillans, the Strangs, the Belknaps, into a series of very interesting articles. beautiful Secondary School burned the Dunstans, and on and on and on! Gwen wants to know where our former to the ground, a truly heartbreaking What is James Baker doing now? Clif- Lytton students are now and what they sight. ford Bolton? Maureen Floyd? Peter are doing, and only you, the reader, Share? Helen, Vivian and Steve Ward? can tell us. This information would The majority of us have someone in Christa and Jason Williams? be a very important part of our Lytton our family who has graduated from history. Kumsheen and we’d like to know about Contact Dorothy Dodge: them. Where are they? What are they This is a huge project! We have lawyers, Fax: 250-455-2394 doing now? Do they have families of nurses, doctors, dentists, chefs, truck email: [email protected] their own? If they have earned degrees, drivers, archeologists, educators - you mail: Box 640, Lytton, B.C. what are they? If they run their own name it, our schools have started them V0K 1Z0 businesses, what are the names? If they on their way. have traveled, what countries have they Let’s put our kids on the map of I went to the oldest yearbooks we have been to? Your cooperation in this search Lytton history! for ideas (1957 - 1972). It was a fun could lead to a really neat series. Page