VALMIERA UDK 908 (474.3) (036) Va 383

Gråmata izdota ar Valmieras pilsétas domes finansiålu atbalstu

Teksta autors Jånis Kalnaçs Text

Tulkotåjs Valdis Bérziñß Translator

Måkslinieks Arnis RoΩkalns Layout

Fotogråfi Aivars Baltmanis Photographers Agris Bergs Eduards Jegorovs Didzis Kadaks Jånis Kalnaçs Aleksejs Koziñecs Linards Pelsis Arturs Rundélis

Apgåds izsaka pateicîbu Ilzei Liepai un Ivetai Blümai par sadarbîbu gråmatas izdoßanå The publishers would like to thank Ilze Liepa and Iveta Blüma for the cooperation in the preparing of the book

Gråmatå izmantoti Valmieras Novadpétniecîbas muzeja un Türisma informåcijas centra materiåli Material used in this book comes from Valmiera Regional Studies Museum and Valmiera Tourist Information Center

ISBN 9984–05–911–1 © Apgåds “Jumava”, izdevums latvießu valodå, 2005 © Jånis Kalnaçs, teksts, 2005 © Arnis RoΩkalns, måkslinieciskais noforméjums, 2005 © Valdis Bérziñß, tulkojums, 2005 Esiet sveicinåti Vidzemes Welcome to Valmiera — centrå — Valmierå! the centre of Vidzeme!

Valmiera ir pilséta, kur vienlaikus savijas pa- The city of Valmiera brings together the past and gåtne un nåkotne, senais un müsdienîgais, vecais the future, the historic and the contemporary, the un jaunais. Pilsétå veiksmîgi saglabåta un attîs- old and the new. Industrial production has been tîta raΩoßana, kas ir pamats valmierießu labklå- successfully maintained and developed here, under- jîbai un ievérojams stürakmens tam, ka Valmieru pinning the welfare of Valmiera’s residents and nu pazîst ne tikai Latvijå, bet arî tålu årpus tås nowadays earning Valmiera a name not only in robeΩåm. Latvia, but also far beyond its borders. Tepat ir arî Valmieras pilsdrupas ar savu no- Valmiera also has its unique and mysterious cas- slépumaino un savdabîgo auru, muzejs ar plaßo tle ruins, and a museum offering to take the visitor piedåvåjumu klåstu Valmieras véstures taku iz- on a trip through history. And right in the middle of staigåßanai. Un tam pa vidu Gauja — Valmieras our city is the River Gauja — Valmiera’s “main “galvenå iela”. street”. Valmieras lielåkå bagåtîba ir tås cilvéki — The people of Valmiera represent the city’s great- gan tie, kas pilsétu izvéléjußies par savåm må- est asset — those who have chosen to make their jåm, gan tie, kuri Valmierå tikai ciemojas. Te homes in the city and likewise those who have come paståvîgi küså un mutu¬o ener©ijas pilni cilvéki, to visit. This place is always full of energetic, bustling un viñu paveikto darbu aug¬i redzami vai ik uz people, and the fruits of their work are apparent at so¬a. Un tas nav maz. Ne velti tradicionålie Val- every step. This is an important factor. Small sur- mieras pasåkumi — Pilsétas svétki vasaras vidü, prise then, that Valmiera’s traditional events — the Ziedu svétki rudenî, daΩådi müzikas festivåli un City Festival at the height of summer, the Flower daudzi, daudzi citi — pulcé tükstoßus apmek- Festival in autumn, a variety of music festivals and létåju. many others — bring together thousands of people. Més priecåsimies arî Jüs redzét savå pilsétå. We look forward to meeting you too in our city. VALMIERÅ, kas DOMÅ UN RADA! VALMIERA, a city that THINKS AND CREATES!

Inesis Bo˚is Valmieras pilsétas Inesis Bo˚is domes priekßsédétåjs Valmiera City Mayor Apriñ˚a pilséta Valmiera 1795. gadå (J. K. Broces zîméjums) Valmiera as a county seat in 1795 (Drawing by J. C. Brotze)

V‰STURE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

Valmiera — Vidzemes lielåkå un viena no Lat- Valmiera is the largest population centre of the vijas darbîgåkajåm un senåkajåm pilsétåm, kam jau Vidzeme region and one of Latvia’s most dynamic 1323. gadå bija savs ma©istråts un kam tika pie- cities. It is also among the country’s oldest cities: ß˚irtas Rîgas tiesîbas. Lîdz 13. gadsimtam Valmieras already in 1323 it had its own magistracy and was apkårtne ietilpa latga¬u, kå arî lîbießu apdzîvotajå granted a town charter modelled on that of Riga. Up Tålavå. 1224. gadå péc Tålavas novada zemju sada- to the 13th century, the Valmiera area belonged to lîßanas starp Rîgas arhibîskapu un Zobenbrå¬u or- the district of Tålava, populated by the Latgallian deni tå nonåca ordeña pak¬autîbå. Pilsétas nosau- and Liv peoples. In 1224, when the lands of Tålava kuma izcelsmei — senåk lietoti arî varianti Wolmar, were divided between the Archbishop of Riga and Woldemer, Wolmahr, Wolmaria — ir vairåki skaid- the Order of Swordbrothers, the town came under rojumi. Populåråkie no tiem saistîti ar Pleskavas ne- the order’s control. There are various explanations godîgo kñazu Vladimiru, kas 13. gadsimta såkumå for the origin of the town’s name, formerly written bija Idumejas novada fogts, un Dånijas karali Val- as Wolmar, Woldemer, Wolmahr or Wolmaria. The demåru II, kas aptuveni tai paßå laikå smagå kaujå most popular versions are connected with the dis- netålu no Tallinas izcînîjis uzvaru pår vietéjiem honourable Prince Vladimir of Pskov, who was iedzîvotåjiem, pateicoties no debesîm atsütîtam ka- bailiff of the Idumeja district in the early 13th cen- rogam, kas karaspéku iedvesmojis uzvarai. Viñß licis tury, and with Valdemar II, King of Denmark, who, uzcelt pilsétu ßîs uzvaras piemiñai, ko nosaucis savå not far from Tallinn at about the same time, won a vårdå. Viduslaiku Valmiera bija neliela amatnieku fierce battle against the indigenous people, when a un tirgotåju pilséta, kas attîstîjås lîdzås pilij, ar kuru flag sent from the heavens inspired his forces to vic- tå bija saistîta vienotå aizsardzîbas sistémå. To vei- tory. It is said that he ordered a town to be founded doja aizsargmüris ar diviem — Rîgas un Térbatas — in memory of this triumph and named it after vårtiem, pieci vai seßi bastioni, kå arî üdensß˚ér߬i — himself. Gauja un tås pieteka Råtsupîte. Medieval Valmiera was a small crafts and trad- 1365. gadå Valmiera, caur kuru gåja starptau- ing town, which grew up next to the castle. The tiski nozîmîgais ce¬ß no Rietumeiropas uz Krievijas town wall had two gates: the Riga Gate and the

4 pilsétåm — Pleskavu un Novgorodu, minéta kå Tartu Gate, and five or six bastions, in addition to Hanzas pilsétu savienîbas locekle, kuras darbîbå tå the natural obstacles represented by the River Gauja regulåri piedalîjås nåkamajos gadsimtos. Valmierå kå and its tributary, the Råtsupîte. Livonijas ©eogråfiskajå centrå no 1385. lîdz 1500. In 1365, Valmiera, lying on the international gadam notika vairåk nekå 30 pilsétu sanåksmes, ku- thoroughfare from Western Europe to the major rås léma par Hanzas saimnieciskajiem jautåjumiem Russian towns of Pskov and Novgorod, is men- un bieΩi sanåca landtågi, kuros apsprieda Livonijas tioned as a member of the Hanseatic League. Held nelielajåm valstîm bütiskus politiskus jautåjumus. in Valmiera, which lay at the geographical centre of 1554. gadå Valmierå pasludinåja ticîbas brîvîbu, Livonia, were more than 30 meetings of town repre- tådéjådi pårtraucot protestantisma izraisîtås kato¬u sentatives between 1385 and 1500, deciding on eco- un luteråñu reli©iskås domstarpîbas. 15.–17. gad- nomic issues relating to the Hanseatic League. Like- simtå pilsétas iedzîvotåju skaitu deviñas reizes reti- wise, the assembly known as the Landtag was often nåja méris. convened in Valmiera, to discuss major political 16. gadsimta otrajå pusé un 17. gadsimta så- issues affecting the small states making up the Li- kumå par Valmieru cînîjås un tajå pårmaiñus val- vonian Confederation. In 1554, religious freedom dîja — po¬i, krievi un zviedri. Livonijas kara laikå was declared in Valmiera, ending the conflict 1560. gadå krievu karaspékam neizdevås pilsétu between Catholics and Lutherans that had begun ieñemt — par ßo aplenkumu liecina akmens lodes, with the rise of Protestantism. In the 15th–17th cen- ko krievu karaspéks ßåva no Lucas kalna un kas tury, the town’s population was devastated nine iemürétas Svétå Sîmaña baznîcas kontrforså. 1622. times by the plague. gadå Zviedrijas karalis Gustavs II Ådolfs Césu In the second half of the 16th and the early 17th bîskapiju, kurå lîdz ar Césîm, Smilteni un Trikåtu century, the Poles, Russians and Swedes fought over ietilpa arî Valmiera, uzdåvinåja valsts kancleram Valmiera and ruled here successively. During the Akselam Uksenßérnam, no kura uzvårda Valmieras Livonian War, in 1560, the Russian forces failed in ©erbonî saglabåjusies vérßa piere. 17. gadsimtå kara- their attempt to take the town. Remaining from the darbîbas izpostîtå Valmiera ar tikai çetriem müra siege are the stone cannonballs shot by the Russians namiem vairåk lîdzinåjås nelielam ciematam, kura from Luca Hill, later incorporated into the masonry iedzîvotåji galvenokårt nodarbojås ar lauksaim- of a buttress of St Simon’s Church. In 1622, the niecîbu. 1680. gadå Valmiera k¬uva par Zviedrijas Bishopric of Césis, which included Valmiera, Smil- valsts îpaßumu. Zviedru laikå nojauca viduslaiku tene and Trikåta, was granted by Gustav II Adolf of müri un jaunajå pilsétas da¬å izveidoja manierismam Sweden to his chancellor Axel Oxenstierna. Deriv- raksturîgs regulåru ielu tîklu un taisnstürveida kvar- ing from his name is the forehead of an ox that tålu plånojumu, kas saglabåjies joprojåm. appears in the town’s arms. In 1680, Valmiera be- 18. gadsimtå Valmieru pamatîgi nopostîja gan came the property of the Swedish crown. Under krievu karaspéka iebrukumå Zieme¬u karå 1702. Swedish rule, the medieval walls were demolished gadå, gan vairåkos ugunsgrékos 18. gadsimta and a regular street plan was created for the new 70. gados. part of the town, with rectangular town blocks, a 18. gadsimta 30. gados, pateicoties Valmier- characteristic feature of the age of Mannerism and muiΩas nomnieces ©enerå¬a Hallarta atraitnes Mag- still preserved today. dalénas Elizabetes un måcîtåja Kristiåna Gotlîba In the 18th century, Valmiera was badly da- Neihauzena atbalstam, Valmiera k¬uva par kustîbas maged in a Russian attack during the Northern War centru Vidzemé. Brå¬u draudzes veicinåja zemnieku in 1702, and by several fires in the 1770s. garîgo un ekonomisko paßapziñu, kas ietekméja gan In the 1730s, thanks to the support of Mag- antifeodålo kustîbu, gan plaßåkas apkårtnes kultüra dalene Elizabeth Hallart, the widow of General dzîvi. Viena no krasåkajåm antifeodålås kustîbas Hallart and leaseholder of Valmiera Estate, and of izpausmém bija Kauguru nemieri 1802. gadå, kuros Pastor Christian Gotlieb Neuhausen, Valmiera be- piedalîjås Valmieras apkårtnes muiΩu zemnieki. came the centre of the Herrnhut movement (Mora- 1783. gadå pilsétiñas teritorija bija aptuveni vian Brothers) in Vidzeme, promoting the self-confi- 240 x 270 metru. Valmieras toreizéjais izskats sagla- dence and economic development of the peasantry. båjies vairåkos Johana Kristofa Broces zîméjumos. One of the most vivid expressions of opposition to Tajå bija seßi desmiti namu un iedzîvotåju vairå- the feudal system was the peasant unrest at Kauguri kums atkal nodarbojås ar amatniecîbu un tirdznie- in 1802, involving the peasants of the Valmiera cîbu (populåråkås profesijas — kurpnieki, drébnieki, area. The Herrnhut movement also stimulated the galdnieki). Valmiera k¬uva par apriñ˚a pilsétu. rise of musical and literary culture in a wide area. 1821. gadå éku skaits Valmierå vél nebija sasnie- In 1783, Valmiera became a county seat. The area dzis simtu. Lîdz 19. gadsimta vidum tå bija våciska of the town measured approximately 240 x 270 m, pilséta, bet latvießi par namu îpaßniekiem k¬uva 20. with about 60 houses and with a population once gadsimta otrajå pusé. 1892. gadå Valmiera bija again engaged mainly in crafts and trade. The town’s

5 Valmieras vésturiskais centrs 20. gadsimta 30. gadu beigås The historic centre of Valmiera in the late 1930s pirmå pilséta Latvijå, kuras domé vairåkums bija appearance at this time may be gauged from several latvießi. drawings by Johann Christoph Brotze. 19. gadsimta beigås un 20. gadsimta såkumå pil- In 1821, Valmiera still had less than a hundred sétå såka darboties pirmie nelielie uzñémumi — kok- houses. Up to the mid-19th century, it was a Ger- zå©étava, audumu kråsotava, linu außanas fabrika. man town. Latvians acquired property in the town 1899. gadå atklåja Rîgas–Pleskavas dzelzce¬a lîniju, during the second half of the century, and in 1892, ap kuras staciju attîstîjås Kårliena, ko lîdz ar Pår- Valmiera became Latvia’s first town with a majority gaujas Jaunpilsétu Valmierai pievienoja 1921. gadå. of ethnic Latvians on the town council. Savdabîgi piepildîts un aktîvs posms provinciålås In the late 19th and early 20th century, the first pilsétas vésturé bija 20. gadsimta såkums, kad tås small businesses were set up in the town: a sawmill, måcîbu iestådés izglîtojås vairåki desmiti zénu, kas a fabric dyeing works and a linen-weaving mill. The vélåk k¬uva par nozîmîgiem kultüras un sabiedris- Riga–Pskov railway line was opened in 1899, and kiem darbiniekiem. Íis aizrautîgais laika posms, kurå the station outside Valmiera became the focus of the risinåjås arî 1905.–1907. gada revolücijas notikumi, Kårliena district, joined to Valmiera in 1921, along attélots Påvila Rozîßa skolas gadu atmiñås balstîtajå with the New Town on the opposite bank of the romånå “Valmieras puikas”. Valmierå darbîbu ir Gauja (Pårgauja). såcis un tai ir bijusi bütiska nozîme arî vélåkå Mi- An unusually rich and active period in this pro- nistru prezidenta un Valsts prezidenta Kår¬a Ulmaña vincial town was the early 20th century, when its dzîvé — 1905. gadå Ulmanis strådåja par instruk- teaching establishments were attended by several do- toru Baltijas lauksaimnieku biedrîbå. Valmiera bi- zens of pupils who were destined to become major jusi nozîmîga arî daudzu citu (arî müsdienu) politi˚u, figures in culture and society. This fervent period, rakstnieku, aktieru, rakstnieku, müzi˚u, zinåtnieku including the events of the Revolution of 1905, is karjerå. Mazåk ir to, kas Valmierå vai tås apkårtné described in the novel “The Boys of Valmiera” nodzîvojußi ilgåku müΩa da¬u — viñu vidü Val- (Valmieras puikas), based on the schooldays experi- mieras vésturnieki — Voldemårs Dåvids Balodis, ences of the author, Påvils Rozîtis. Valmiera was the Hermanis Enzeliñß un Laimonis Liepnieks. starting point or a significant place in the career of Pirmå pasaules kara gados Valmiera bija bég¬u many important historical figures, including the later centrs. 1916. gadå te tika izßüts pirmais nacionålais Prime Minister and President of Latvia, Kårlis Ulma- karogs. Svétå Sîmaña baznîcå 1917. gada nogalé nis (who worked here in 1905 as an instructor for

6 sanåkußais Latvijas strådnieku, zemnieku un bez- the Baltic Agricultural Society), and other politicians, zemnieku kongress pasludinåja varu Våcijas neoku- writers, actors, musicians and scientists. pétajå teritorijå. In the First World War, Valmiera was a centre Lîdz Ulmaña apvérsumam 1934. gadå pilsétas for refugees. The first Latvian flag was sewn here in valdé vairåkums bija sociåldemokråti, kålab pilsétu 1916. It was in St Simon’s Church in Valmiera that tolaik dévéja par Sarkano Valmieru. 1928. gadå, in late 1917 the Soviet of Latvian Workers, Peasants büvéjot “Bekona eksportu”, atrada årstniecisko mi- and Landless People declared power in the territory nerålüdeni, kas joprojåm ir viens no pazîstamåka- of Latvia that was not under German occupation. jiem ar pilsétu saistîtajiem produktiem, tautå to Up to the time of the coup d’ètat by Ulmanis, the iesauca par Valmieras cüküdeni. 20.–30. gados Val- Social Democrats had a majority on the city execu- miera k¬uva par nozîmîgu Zieme¬latvijas adminis- tive board, so the city was known in those days as tratîvo un saimniecisko centru, bet tås iedzîvotåji “Red Valmiera”. In 1928, when the “Bacon Ex- strådåja galvenokårt sîkos un vidéjos amatniecîbas port” plant was being built, the medicinal mineral un rüpniecîbas uzñémumos. water was discovered, still one of the best-known Valmierai tra©isks bija 1944. gada septembris, products associated with the town (and still popu- kad, mainoties okupåcijas varu karaspékam, pilséta larly known as “Valmiera Pig-Water”). In the 1920s– zaudéja teju visu centra vésturisko apbüvi — cieta 30s, Valmiera became an important administrative vairåk nekå 270 éku jeb treßda¬a visas pilsétas and economic centre of northern Latvia. apbüves, arî vairåki 18. gadsimta nami. Patlaban par Tragic for the city were the events of September 19.–20. gadsimta mijå veidojußos pilsétu liecina vien 1944, when, in the struggle between the occupying vienståva vai divståvu koka un müra nami LimbaΩu German and Soviet forces, virtually all the historic un Leona Paegles ielå, Pårgaujå ap autoostu un buildings of the town centre were lost. Altogether dzelzce¬a staciju, daΩas ékas saglabåjußås starp more than 270 buildings, or a third of the total, were 60.–80. gadu jaunbüvém, kå arî izskatîgi malkas damaged, including several 18th century houses. A ß˚ünîßi ar raksturîgo otrå ståva galeriju. reflection of the former appearance of the town, as No mazpilsétas par pilsétu Valmieru pårvérta it was at the turn of the 20th century, is seen only in péckara industrializåcija, kad gan paplaßinåja biju- the one- and two-storey wooden and brick houses ßos uzñémumus, gan uzcéla Valmieras stiklß˚iedras on LimbaΩu Street and Leona Paegles Street, in the rüpnîcu. Tå kå trüka vietéjå darbaspéka, Valmierå Pårgauja district around the bus station and railway ieradås strådnieki no citåm PSRS republikåm. Mig- station, and in some other older buildings preserved råcijas radîtås sociålås problémas raksturo “Valmie- in between the new architecture of the 1960s–80s. ras meiteñu” jédziens. These include several fine woodsheds with a charac- 80. gadu beigås un 90. gadu såkumå mainoties teristic top-floor gallery. politiskajiem un ekonomiskajiem apståk¬iem, rüp- Industrialisation after the war turned Valmiera niecîbas uzñémumiem mainîjås îpaßnieki, tomér from a town into a city. The existing factories were raΩoßana saglabåjås, veicinot salîdzinoßi zemu bez- extended, and the Valmiera Glass Fibre Plant was built. darba lîmeni Valmierå. Latviska pilséta, kuras iedzî- Since the local workforce was insufficient, workers votåju skaits pédéjos gadu desmitos saglabåjies sta- were brought in from other republics of the USSR. bils — ap divdesmit septiñiem tükstoßiem. Pédéjos When the political and economic situation gados Valmierå noris aktîva — galvenokårt arhitek- changed in the late 80s and early 90s, the industrial toniski pragmatiska rakstura — veikalu büvniecîba. enterprises changed hands, but production con- Büvé arî jaunås pilsétas teritorijå, arî Rîgas ielå, kur tinued, so that the level of unemployment in Val- top Vidzemes Olimpiskais sporta centrs. miera remained comparatively low. It is a predomi- Valmierai ir noturîgas kultüras un sporta tradîci- nantly ethnic Latvian town, whose population has jas, kuru starpå senås müzikas festivåls, rokfestivåls, remained stable in recent decades at around 27 Simjüda gadatirgus, Rüdolfa Blaumaña dramatur- thousand. Valmiera has seen major construction ©ijas festivåls; starptautiskais motokross “Gaujas work in recent years — mainly the pragmatic archi- kauss”, Valsts prezidentes balvas izcîña vieglatlétikå tecture of big stores. The building work has extend- un citi pasåkumi. Pilsétå spélé viena no labåkajåm ed to areas that were previously open land. The Latvijas basketbola komandåm “Valmieras piens”. Vidzeme Olympic Sports Centre is being built in one such previously unoccupied location on Rîgas Street. Valmiera has strong cultural and sporting tra- ditions: the early music festival and rock festival, the Simjüds Annual Fair, the Rüdolfs Blaumanis Drama Festival, the international Gauja Cup in motocross, the competition for the President’s Prize in athletics and other events. The city is home to one of Latvia’s top basketball teams — “Valmieras piens”.

7 8 PILSDRUPAS THE CASTLE RUINS

Iespéjams, Valmieras pili Zobenbrå¬u ordenis It is possible that the castle was built in the 13th såka celt 13. gadsimta såkumå vietå, kur pirms tam century by the Order of Swordbrothers on the site varéja atrasties latga¬u pils. Bet var büt, ka vien- of an earlier Latgallian castle. Equally, it may be laikus ar Svétå Sîmaña baznîcu 1283. gadå to såka that construction of the castle was begun simulta- büvét Zobenbrå¬u ordeña péctecis — Livonijas or- neously with the building of St Simon’s Church in denis. Viduslaikos ßî pils, kurå uzturéjås fogts vai 1283 by the successor of the Order of Sword- tiesnesis, lîdz ar Åraißu, Burtnieku, Césu, LugaΩu brothers — the Livonian Order. In the Middle un Trikåtas pili ietilpa Césu komturijå. 1702. gadå Ages, this castle — the residence of the local bailiff da¬éji sabrukußo pili ieñéma un nopostîja Krievijas or magistrate — belonged to Césis Commandery, cara Pétera I karaspéks, ko Zieme¬u kara laikå along with the castles of Åraißi, Burtnieki, Césis, vadîja gråfs Íeremetjevs. Péc tam tås nojaukßanu LugaΩi and Trikåta. In 1702, the partly-collapsed turpinåja pilsétas iedzîvotåji, mürus izmantojot castle was taken and sacked by the forces of büvmateriåliem. Russian Tsar Peter I, led during the Northern War Nav ziñu par Valmieras pils såkotnéjo izskatu, by Count Sheremetev. The destruction was con- bet lîdz 16. gadsimtam tås åréjie müri veidoja nere- tinued by the townspeople, who used the walls as gulåru, kalna formai atbilstoßi izstieptu daudzstüri. a stock of building material. 17. gadsimta beigu aprakstå minétais dienvidrie- There is no evidence regarding the original tumu korpuss lîdz müsdienåm nav saglabåjies. Tå appearance of Valmiera Castle. Up to the 16th cen- otrajå ståvå atradås lielåka zåle, kurå 15.–16. gad- tury, the castle’s outer walls formed a long, irregu- simtå, iespéjams, notika Livonijas landtågi. lar polygon, corresponding to the shape of the hill. Pils arheolo©isko izpéti såka 20. gadsimta 30. The South-West Block, mentioned in a description gadu beigås, mekléjot liecîbas, ka pirms tås ßajå from the late 17th century, has not been preserved vietå atradies latga¬u Beverînas pilskalns. Izpéti tur- up to the present day. On the first floor, it had a pinåja 80.–90. gadu mijå, kad tika atsegti iepriekß large hall, where the meetings of the Livonian nezinåmå zviedru laika pildreΩ©a konstrukcijå bü- Landtag may have been held in the 15th and 16th vétå zieme¬rietumu korpusa pagrabi. To såka büvét century. 1680. gadå, un tas, nogalinot vairåkus cilvékus, Archaeological excavation began at the castle in droßi vien tika sagrauts, kad krievu karaspéks ieñé- the late 1930s, seeking evidence that this had pre- ma un nodedzinåja Valmieru. Atrasto pagrabu un viously been the site of the Latgallian hill-fort pazemes ejas, kå arî pils dienvidu un zieme¬u aiz- Beverîna. Excavation continued in the years around sargmüra fragmentu konservåciju pabeidza 2002. 1990, when the cellars were unearthed of the pre- gadå, kad uzlika véjrådîtåju ar Livonijas ordeña viously unknown North-West Block, built in tim- krustu. ber-frame construction. The building of this block Krievu literatüras vésturé Valmieras pils tiek began in 1680. It was probably destroyed, killing pieminéta kå vieta, kur pie Polijas kara¬a pårbé- several people, when the Russian forces took Val- gußais karavadonis kñazs Andrejs Kurbskis rakstîja miera and sacked it. Conservation of the cellars and atmaskojoßas véstules Krievijas caram Ivanam Bar- underground passageway, as well as the surviving gajam, kas Latvijas vésturiskajos avotos karaspéka parts of the castle’s south and north walls, was neΩélîbas dé¬ bieΩi dévéts par Jåni Briesmîgo. completed in 2002, when a wind-vane showing the cross of the Livonian Order was put up. Valmiera Castle features in Russian literary his- tory as the place where the military leader Prince Andrei Kurbsky, who had fled to join the King of Poland, wrote letters denouncing the Russian Tsar Ivan the Terrible.

9 VECÅ APTIEKA THE OLD PHARMACY

1735. gadå bårddzinis un ˚irurgu cunftes meis- In 1735, the barber and Master of the Surgeons’ tars Johans Nikolajs Ívarcs da¬éji uz pils aizsarg- Corporation Johann Nicholaus Schwarz built the müra pamatiem uzcéla senåko Valmieras dzîvojamo oldest preserved dwelling-house in Valmiera, partly éku. To iegådåjås medicînas doktors Johans Vol- on top of the foundations of the old castle wall. The råts Reihenaus un 1756. gadå tajå atvéra aptieku, house was bought by medical doctor Johann Wohl- kas darbojås vairåk nekå divsimt gadu. 19. gad- rat Reichenau, and in 1756 a pharmacy opened simtå tå izveidojås par éku kompleksu, kurå ietilpa here, remaining in business for more than two hun- vél trîs koka un müra korpusi. 1912. gadå Veco dred years. In the 19th century, it developed into a aptieku iegådåjås Valmieras pilséta, un tå bija pirmå complex of buildings, which included another three aptieka Baltijå, kas piederéja kådai paßvaldîbai. wooden and masonry blocks. In 1912, the Old No 1989. lîdz 1995. gadam Veco aptieku, kas Pharmacy was bought by the city of Valmiera, be- vairåkus gadu desmitus bija sadalîta mazos dzî- coming the first pharmacy in the Baltic owned by a vok¬os, atjaunoja agråkajå izskatå un pielågoja municipality. 1959. gadå nodibinåtå Valmieras Novadpétniecî- In 1989–1995, the Old Pharmacy building, bas muzeja vajadzîbåm. Íim nolükam izmantoja arî which had for several decades been divided into péckara gados ASV dzîvojußå gleznotåja Rüdolfa small flats, was restored in its former appearance Voldemåra Vîtola sievas Olgas testamentå vél pirms and adapted to the needs of the Valmiera Museum Latvijas neatkarîbas atjaunoßanas novélétos lî- of Regional Studies (founded in 1959). The project dzek¬us. was funded partly from money bequeathed even before the restoration of Latvia’s independence by painter Rüdolfs Voldemårs Vîtols’ wife Olga, living in the USA after the war.

10 11 SKULPTËRA THE SCULPTURE “VALMIERAS PUIKAS”, “BOYS OF VALMIERA”,

kas saistîta ar populåråko literåro darbu par pil- which is connected with the most popular literary sétu, ir télnieces Timiånas Munkéviças diplomdarbs, work set in the town, is the diploma work of sculp- 1981. gadå beidzot Måkslas akadémiju. Tajå lîdz tress Timiåna Munkéviça, who graduated from the ar satraukti romantisko 20. gadsimta såkumu, ir Academy of Art in 1981. Conveying the excitement netießas norådes uz rakstniekiem Påvilu Rozîti un and romance of the early 20th century, it also inclu- Linardu Laicenu, kå arî télnieku Emîlu Melderi. des indirect references to writers Påvils Rozîtis and Linards Laicens, and sculptor Emîls Melderis.

12 VALTERKALNIˆÍ VALTERKALNIˆÍ

ir 17. gadsimtå zviedru laikå izveidots ravelîns, The hill is in fact a defensive structure or ravelin kas savu vårdu ieguvis no pazîstamåkås Valmieras from the 17th century, created in the time of baltvåcu dzimtas — årstiem un måcîtåjiem Valte- Swedish rule. It obtained its name from the most riem, kam piederéja viena no Valmieras muzeja éku prominent Baltic German family in Valmiera — the komplekså ietilpstoßajåm nedaudzajåm pilsétas Walter family of doctors and pastors, who owned ékåm, kas saglabåjusies no 18. gadsimta. Izcilåkais the one of the few buildings in the town remaining ßîs dzimtas pårståvis ir bîskaps Ferdinands Valters, from the 18th century, now forming part of the Vidzemes virskonsistorijas ©enerålsuperintendants complex of buildings of Valmiera Museum. The un Vidzemes Skolotåju seminåra izveides iniciators. most outstanding member of this family was Bi- Izteikts pieñémums, ka Valterkalniñß varétu büt shop Ferdinand Walter, Superintendent-General of bijis kåds no sençu pilskalniem — Autîne. Koka pa- the High Consistory of Livland and the founding viljons atjaunots, izmantojot 20. gadsimta såkuma figure behind the Vidzeme Teachers’ Seminary. It pastkartés iemüΩinåto ßai vietå iederîgo büvi. has been suggested that this is the site of Autîne, one of the ancient hillforts. A wooden pavilion has been recreated here, based on early 20th century postcard views of the structure enhancing this site.

13 14 SV‰TÅ SÈMAˆA BAZNÈCA ST SIMON’S CHURCH,

ir nozîmîgåkais Valmieras vairåk nekå 700 gadu dedicated to one of the disciples of Christ, is the ilgås véstures piemineklis, kas veltîts Kristus må- most important witness to Valmiera’s 700-year his- ceklim. Tå celtniecîbu såka 1283. gadå, par bazi- tory. Building work began in 1283, and in the liku to pårbüvéja 14.–15. gadsimtå. Müsdienu iz- 14th–15th century it was altered into a basilica. skatå, kas no viduslaikiem atß˚iras galvenokårt ar The main feature added since the Middle Ages is 1739. gadå pabeigto barokålo torni, baznîcu atjau- the Baroque steeple, completed in 1739. The church noja péc tås nopostîßanas 1702. gadå. Svétå Sîmaña was renovated after the destruction of 1702. St Si- baznîca ir viens no bütiskåkajiem viduslaiku sakrå- mon’s Church is one of Latvia’s most important lås arhitektüras pieminek¬iem Latvijå, kuras arhi- examples of medieval church architecture, showing tektüru ietekméjis gan romånikas, gan gotikas stils. both Romanesque and Gothic influence. Pagåjußå gadsimta 60.–70. gadu mijå, kad Around 1960, the congregation was forced out draudze bija spiesta savu dievnamu atståt, to da¬éji of the church: it was partially restored and trans- restauréja un pårvérta par Valmieras muzeja kon- formed into a concert and exhibition hall for Val- certu un izståΩu zåli. Protestantu baznîcåm rakstu- miera Museum. The characteristically austere inte- rîgajå atturîgajå interjerå lîdz ar daΩåm viduslaiku riors of this Protestant church preserve some whole kapu plåksném un to fragmentiem atrodas vairåki and fragmentary medieval gravestones and several restauréti jaunåku laiku måkslas darbi. 18. gad- restored works of art from more recent times. simta altåris un kancele ar apgleznotiem pildiñiem, There is an 18th century altar and pulpit with kuros attéloti luteråñu dievnamiem tipiskie apus- painted panels showing the figures of the Apostles tu¬u un evañ©élistu téli, ValmiermuiΩas îpaßnieka and Evangelists, as is typical for a Lutheran church. Lévenßterna dåvåtå viña kådreizéjå måjskolotåja, The altarpiece “The Temptation of Christ” (1842), Drézdenes Måkslas akadémijas profesora Kår¬a by Carl Christian Vogel von Vogelstein, Professor Kristiåna Fogela-Fogelßteina altårglezna “Kristus at Dresden Academy of Fine Art, was donated by kårdinåßana” (1842. gads). ‰r©eles par KokmuiΩas Levenstern, the owner of Valmiera Estate, where îpaßnieka Teodora Írédera lîdzek¬iem 1886. gadå the painter had once worked as tutor. The organ izgatavotas Fridriha Ladegasta darbnîcå Veisenfelså was made at the workshop of Friedrich Ladegast in (Våcijå). Lîdzås altårda¬as sienai zem liepas apgla- Weissenfels (Germany) in 1886, at the expense of båta ValmiermuiΩas nomniece Elizabete Hallarte, Theodor Schroeder, owner of KokmuiΩa Manor. bet netålu no ieejas atrodas télnieka Andra Vårpas Buried under a lime tree next to the chancel wall is piemineklis pirmajam draudzes latvießu måcîtåjam, Elizabeth Hallart, the leaseholder of Valmiera kå arî rakstniekam Jånim Neilandam. Estate, and near the entrance is a monument by Baznîca un tås apkårtne saistîta ar vairåkiem sculptor Andris Vårpa to writer Jånis Neilands, svarîgiem vésturiskiem notikumiem. 1525. gadå who was the first Latvian pastor here. Valmieras landtåga laikå tajå spredi˚oja no Våcijas The church and its environs are connected with ieradies luterånisma sludinåtåjs Silvestrs Tegetmei- several major historical events. In 1525, the Luthe- jers. Pie tås 18. gadsimtå un 19. gadsimta såkumå ran evangelist Sylvester Tegetmeyer, arrived from vairåkkårt izpildîti sodi zemnieku dumpju dalîbnie- Germany, preached here during the time of the kiem — arî 1802. gada Kauguru zemnieku nemieru Landtag meeting. Outside the church, rebellious vadoñiem. peasants were punished several times in the 18th and early 19th century — including the leaders of the 1802 peasant rising at Kauguri.

15 SV‰TÅ RADOˆEÛAS SERGIJA BAZNÈCA

Pareizticîgo draudze Valmierå såka darboties 1846. gadå, bet gadu vélåk tika uzcelta koka baznîca. Latvießu zemnieku pårießanu pareizticîbå veicinåja 19. gad- simta vidü izplatîjußås baumas, ka, mai- not konfesijas, büs iespéjams iegüt arî zemi un lopus. 1877.–1879. gadå büvuzñéméjs Jånis Meñ©elis uzcéla müra baznîcu. Tå ir viena no pareizticîgo baznîcåm, ko pro- jektéja pirmais latvießu arhitekts Jånis Frîdrihs Baumanis un kas Vidzemes gu- berñå tika uzbüvétas par Krievijas valdî- bas lîdzek¬iem aktîvas rusifikåcijas laikå. Eklektisma krievu bizantießu stila arhitek- türas formas iemiesotas Latvijas büvnie- cîbai mazpilsétås un muiΩås ßai laikå îpaßi bieΩi izmantotos materiålos — pléstå laukakmenî un sarkanos måla ˚ie©e¬os. Tai lîdzås atrodas pareizticîbå pårgåjußå Mujånu muiΩas barona Morica fon Mengdena dzimtas neoromåniskå kapliça (1903. gads).

THE CHURCH OF ST SERGIUS OF RADONEZH

A Russian Orthodox congregation was established in Valmiera in 1846, and a wooden church was built a year later. The conversion of Latvian peasants to Orthodoxy was promoted in the mid- 19th century by rumours that by convert- ing, they would also obtain land and live- stock. In 1877–1879, builder Jånis Meñ- ©elis built the stone church here. This is one of the Orthodox churches designed by the first Latvian architect Jånis Frîdrihs Baumanis and built in the Province of Liv- land at the expense of the Russian govern- ment during the time of active Russifi- cation. This example of Eclectic architec- ture in Byzantine style has been created using the materials generally utilised in small towns and manors in Latvia at this time — split boulder stone and red brick. Next to the church is the Neoromanesque family tomb (1903) of Baron Moritz von Mengden, owner of Mujåni Manor, who had converted to Orthodoxy.

16 SV‰TÅS JAUNAVAS MARIJAS ROMAS KATOÒU BAZNÈCA

Kato¬u draudze Valmierå atsåka darboties 20. gadsimta 30. gadu vidü. Formås vienkårßais dievnams tika uz- celts, izmantojot Viß˚u 17. gadsimta kato¬u baznîcu, kuras Latgales måkslas vésturé nozîmîgais sienas un griestu gleznojums imitéja klasicismam rakstu- rîgu arhitektonisko un télniecisko de- koru. 1939. gadå Viß˚u baznîcu nojau- ca un pårveda uz Valmieru. 50. gadu vidü koka éku apßuva ar ˚ie©e¬iem, vé- låk apmeta un nokråsoja. Jaunåkas kristîgås konfesijas — ad- ventistu — dievnams, kam askétiskas formas un nedaudz izteiksmîgåks por- tåls, tika uzcelts 20. gadsimta 30. ga- dos. Tajå péc izlikßanas no Svétå Sî- maña baznîcas vairåk nekå divdesmit gadu notika arî Valmieras evañ©éliski luteriskås draudzes dievkalpojumi.

THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH OF THE HOLY VIRGIN MARY

The Roman Catholic congregation at Valmiera was re-established in the mid-1930s. The simple forms of the church are in fact those of the 17th cen- tury Viß˚i Catholic Church, whose ceil- ing-pieces and murals, important for art history of Latgale, imitate Classical architectural and sculptural decoration. In 1939, Viß˚i Church was dismantled and brought to Valmiera. In the mid- 50s, the wooden building was bricked over. Later, a layer rendering was add- ed and the building was painted. The church of the most recent Christian denomination — the Seventh Day Adventists — with its ascetic forms and somewhat more expressive portal, was built in the 1930s. For more than two decades, after being forced out of St Simon’s, the Valmiera Evangelical Lutheran Congregation also held its services here.

17 RÅTSLAUKUMS THE TOWN SQUARE

Kådreizéjås viduslaiku pilsétas neatñemamå sa- This essential element of a medieval town — the ståvda¬a — tirgus laukums — savas funkcijas pildî- market square — retained its functions right up to ja lîdz pat 30. gadu vidum. Paßreizéjo izskatu tas the mid-1930s. It obtained its present appearance ieguva péc tam, kad 30. gadu nogalé, gatavojoties after a hotel (designed by Kårlis Cinåts) was built 1940. gadå Helsinkos nenotikußajåm olimpiskajåm here to promote tourism in the late 1930s, in the spélém un veicinot vietéjo türismu, uzcéla viesnîcu run-up to the planned 1940 Helsinki Olympics. In (arhitekts Kårlis Cinåts). Péckara gados to paaug- the post-war years, another floor was added and the stinåja par vienu ståvu un tur pårcélås rajona un district and city municipal authorities were trans- pilsétas paßvaldîbas. Valmieras arhitekta Ivara Mar- ferred here. The design, by Valmiera architect Ivars tinsona projekts respekté vésturiskås vides ierobe- Martinsons, respects the restrictions imposed by Ωojoßås iespéjas. Tå malå ékas, kurå atrodas Val- this historic setting. Next to this site, the court- mieras teåtra administråcijas telpas un aktieru house had been built in 1789, on the spot where ©érbtuves, vietå 1789. gadå uzcéla tiesas namu. Valmiera Theatre now has its administrative offices Necilo vienståva koka éku, kurå kopß 18. gadsimta and dressing rooms. This humble single-storey build- beigåm darbojås Valmieras råte, bet vélåk lîdz ing, the home of the Town Council from the late 1926. gadam atradås pilsétas valde, nojauca 1940. 18th century onwards, and the City Executive gadå. Råtslaukumå bieΩi notiek pasåkumi, arî at- Board up to 1926, was demolished in 1940. Many jaunotais vésturiskais Simjüda (no apustu¬u Sîmaña events are held in the Town Square, including the un Jüdas vårda) gadatirgus un Ziemassvétku tir- re-enlivened historic Simjüds Annual Fair (the dziñß. name deriving from the Apostles Simon and Jude).

18 HANZAS SIENA THE HANSA WALL

ir namu fasådes gleznojums Valmieras centrå. is a mural enhancing house facades, in the centre Tas tapa, lai atgådinåtu par Valmieras tikpat kå of Valmiera, created as a reminder of the city’s me- zudußo viduslaiku posmu. Gleznojuma autori Jånis dieval heritage, which has virtually all been lost. Tançers un Zane Gudina. Tajå apvienoti Abrahama The mural is the work of Jånis Tançers and Zane Ortéliusa 1570. gada kartes fragments, Hanzas sa- Gudina. It includes a fragment of a 1570 map by vienîbas varenîbas laika raksturîgais pårvietoßanås Abraham Ortelius, a picture of a cog — the char- lîdzeklis — koge — un Valmieras senåkais ©erbo- acteristic means of transport in the heyday of the nis, kas saglabåjies 1524. gada zîmoga nospiedumå. Hanseatic League, and the earliest coat of arms of Valmiera, preserved in the form of an impression from 1524.

19 VALMIERAS VALMIERA VALSTS ÌIMNÅZIJA GRAMMAR SCHOOL

1902. gadå Valmierå såka darboties skolotåju The Teacher’s Seminary opened in Valmiera in seminårs, jo Valkas pilsétas valde nepieß˚îra zemi 1902 simply because the authorities in the town of tå büvniecîbai Valkå. Rîgas måcîbu apgabala arhi- Valka would not grant land for building it. The tekta A. Kîzelbaßa projektéto skolotåju seminåra building for the Seminary, designed by the Riga éku netålu no Gaujas, toreizéjås pilsétas nomalé, School District architect A. Kieselbasch and sited pabeidza gadu vélåk. No dzelteniem un sarkaniem not far from the Gauja, at that time on the outskirts ˚ie©e¬iem celtå éka laika gaitå zaudéjusi tås vidus- of the town, was completed a year later. The yel- da¬å bijußo torni ar pareizticîgo baznîcåm rakstu- low-and-red brick building has in the course of rîgo sîpolveida kupolu, bet tås korpusu sareΩ©îto time lost its central tower with the characteristic izvietojumu, kas plånå atgådina burtu “E”, médz onion-shaped cupola of Orthodox churches. The saistît ar vårdu “evañ©élijs”. complicated E-shaped layout of the blocks is gener- Skolotåju seminåra darbîbas laikå lîdz Pirmajam ally regarded as representing the word “Evangel”. pasaules karam tajå måcîjußies gan vélåk atzîti sko- Up to the time of the First World War, the Tea- lotåji, gan pazîstami sabiedriskie un kultüras dar- chers’ Seminary was attended by many later well- binieki, måkslinieki, rakstnieki — Gustavs Klucis, known teachers, prominent social activists, cultural Hermanis Aplociñß, Péteris Kundziñß, rakstnieki figures, artists and writers. These include artists Jånis Ezeriñß un Leons Paegle, vésturnieks Jånis Gustavs Klucis and Péteris Kundziñß, writers Jånis Straubergs, komponists Jékabs Graubiñß. Vairåkus Ezeriñß and Leons Paegle, historian Jånis Strau- seminåra audzékñus no tå izslédza par piedalîßanos bergs and composer Jékabs Graubiñß. Several semi- 1905.–1907. gada revolücijå. Tagad ßajå ékå dar- nary pupils were expelled for participating in the bojas Valmieras Valsts ©imnåzija. Revolution of 1905. Nowadays, the building is home to Valmiera Grammar School.

20 VALMIERAS VALMIERA 5TH 5. VIDUSSKOLA SECONDARY SCHOOL

Trîsdesmito gadu otrås puses valsts labvélîgo The favourable attitude of the state towards the attieksmi pret sabiedrisko büvju celtniecîbu aplieci- provision of new public buildings in the second half na vairåkas Valmieras ékas, arî 1941. gadå çekistu of the 1930s is attested by several examples in nogalinåtå Arnolda Çuibes projektétås neoeklek- Valmiera. These include the Neoeclectic school- tiskås skolu ékas — 5. vidusskola (såkotnéji Val- houses designed by Arnolds Çuibe (who was killed mieras komercskola) un zemga¬u virsaißa Viestura by the Soviet secret police in 1941): the 5th Secon- vårdå nodévétå 3. vidusskola —, kas saglabåjußas dary School (originally Valmiera School of Com- ne tikai büvformas, bet arî ne vienu vien laikam merce) and the 3rd Secondary School, named after raksturîgu interjera deta¬u. the ancient Semigallian chieftain Viesturs, which has preserved not only its external appearance, but also various details of the interior characteristic of that period.

21 VIDZEMES VIDZEME AUGSTSKOLA UNIVERSITY COLLEGE

1996. gadå Vidzemes paßvaldîbu dibinåtå re©io- Regional college, established in 1996 by the nålå augstskola 2001. gadå k¬uva par valsts augstå- local authorities of Vidzeme in 2001 turned into a ko måcîbu iestådi. Vidzemes Augstskola ir viena no state higher education institution. Vidzeme Univer- prestiΩåkajåm Latvijas augstskolåm. Türisma orga- sity College is one of Latvia’s most prestigious high- nizåcijas un vadîbas, Informåciju tehnolo©ijas, er education establishments. More than 1100 stu- Politolo©ijas, Sabiedrisko attiecîbu un Biznesa dents study in the departments of Tourism Organi- vadîbas noda¬å måcås vairåk nekå 1100 studentu. sation and Management, Information Technolo- Lielåkå da¬a augstskolas studentu ir no Vidzemes. gies, Political Science, Communication and Public Relations, and Business Administration.

22 VALMIERAS MÅKSLAS VALMIERA SECONDARY VIDUSSKOLA ART SCHOOL

Izstiepto Valmieras draudzes skolas namu uz- The long building originally housing the Val- céla 1844. gadå nodegußås ékas vietå. Íî måcîbu miera Parish School was built on the site of an ear- ieståde tajå darbojås lîdz pat pagåjußå gadsimta lier building that burned down in 1844. This teach- 20. gadiem. Draudzes skolas telpas izmantoja arî ing establishment functioned right up to the 1920s. 1839. gadå dibinåtais Vidzemes draudzes skolotåju The Parish School premises were also utilised by seminårs, kas lîdz 1849. gadam skolotåja un tautas the Vidzeme Parish Teachers’ Seminary, established dziesmu våcéja Jåña Cimzes (viñß zîméjis ßîs ékas in 1839, which existed in Valmiera up to 1849, plånu) vadîbå darbojås Valmierå. Kopß 1984. gada headed by teacher and folksong collector Jånis izremontéto éku izmanto Valmieras Måkslas vidus- Cimze (who drew a plan of this building). Since skola, kas vélåk tika pårveidota par Vidzemé vie- 1984, the renovated building has been the home of nîgo måkslas vidusskolu. Lîdzås tai atrodas péc Valmiera Secondary Art School, later transformed senåm fotogråfijåm rekonstruétå akmens müra into Vidzeme’s only secondary school of art. The saimniecîbas éka. outbuilding next to it is a reconstruction of a histo- ric stone building, recreated after old photographs.

23 UNIBANKAS VALMIERAS VALMIERA BRANCH FILIÅLES ‰KA OF THE UNIBANK

Såkotnéjå Valsts zemes bankas Valmieras noda- The building originally constructed for the Val- ¬as éka ir viens no tîråkajiem funkcionålisma stila miera Branch of the State Land Bank represents one paraugiem Latvijå un arhitekta Anßa Kalniña labå- of Latvia’s purest examples of Functionalist archi- kais darbs. Kopß uzcelßanas (1931.–1932. gads) tecture, the finest work by architect Ansis Kalniñß. éka izmantota finanßu darbîbai. 20. gs. 90. gados The building has been home to financial institu- to remontéjot, ievérota bijîga attieksme pret ori©i- tions ever since it was built, in 1931–1932. In the nålo interjeru, gan saglabåjot daΩådas interjera un course of renovation work in the 1990s, care was apdares deta¬as, gan restauréjot kråsojumu vairå- taken to preserve various details of the original kås Unibankas Valmieras filiåles publiski pieejamås interiors and restore the paintwork in several pub- telpås. licly-accessible rooms in what is now the Valmiera Branch of the Unibank of Latvia.

24 VIDZEMES APGABALTIESA VIDZEME REGIONAL COURT

Neoeklektisko éku péc arhitekta Kår¬a Cinåta This Neoeclectic building, designed by Kårlis projekta uzcéla îsi pirms Otrå pasaules kara 1939. Cinåts, was built just before the Second World War, gadå. Padomju okupåcijas laikå éku, ko dévéja par in 1939. Popularly known as the “White House”, “Balto måju”, izmantoja Latvijas Komunistiskås during the Soviet occupation this building housed partijas komiteja un Valmieras rajona Tautas depu- the local Committee of the Latvian Communist tåtu padome. Labi uzturétajå namå saglabåjusies Party and the Valmiera District Soviet of Peoples’ vairåku telpu interjera apdare, jo îpaßi uzmanîbas Deputies. In this well-maintained building, the orig- vérta zåle ar renesanses stilå veidotu interjeru otrajå inal interior décor is preserved in several rooms. ståvå. Noteworthy is the first-floor hall with its Renais- sance-style interiors.

25 UGUNSDZ‰S‰JU TORNIS

20. gadsimtå såkumå Valmierå bija divi lîdzîgi no sarkanajiem ˚ie- ©e¬iem büvéti ugunsdzéséju torñi. Otrs atradås tirgus laukumå iepretî Valmieras Svétå Sîmaña baznîcai tagadéjå paßvaldîbas nama vietå. Íajå industriålås arhitektüras mantojuma paraugå izmantoti no viduslaiku pi¬u sargtorñiem aizgüti elementi.

THE FIRE TOWER

At the beginning of the 20th cen- tury, Valmiera had two similar red- brick fire towers. The second was on the Market Square, opposite St Simon’s Church, on the present site of the local authority building. This historic example of industrial archi- tecture utilises elements borrowed from medieval defensive towers.

AMATNIEKU NAMIˆÍ

Arhitekta Gustava Lenåna privåt- måja, ko péc viña projekta uzcéla 30. gadu vidü, saudzîgi izmantojot dabisko reljefu, ir Latvijas arhitek- türå reti sastopams Art Deco stila paraugs.

THE CRAFTSMEN’S MAISONETTE

The home of architect Gustavs Lenåns, which he designed in the mid-1930s, making sensitive use of the natural relief, is a rare example in Latvia of Art Deco architecture.

26 27 STÅVIE KRASTI THE STEEP RIVERBANK,

ir vairåkus simtus metru garais Gaujas krasta stretching for several hundred metres along the atsegums, kas 19. gadsimta beigås k¬uva par val- Gauja, became a favourite leisure area for Valmiera mierießu iecienîtu atpütas vietu. Pirms gadiem trîs- residents in the late 19th century. Thirty or forty desmit, çetrdesmit ßî vieta ce¬veΩos tika minéta kå years ago, this location was mentioned in guide- îpaßi nozîmîga tådé¬, ka to 1917. gadå bija apmek- books as being particularly important, because it léjis ASV komunistu partijas dibinåtåjs un gråma- had been visited in 1917 by John Reed, founder of tas par bo¬ßeviku apvérsumu Péterburgå “10 die- the Communist Party of the USA and author of the nas, kas satricinåja pasauli” autors DΩons Rîds. book “Ten Days that Shook the World”, about the Bolshevik coup in Petrograd.

28 KAZU KRÅCES

atrodas vienu Gaujas lîkumu pirms pilsétas centra un var sagådåt daΩus satraucoßus brîΩus, ierodoties Valmierå ar laivu no Strençu puses. Péc 1926. gada postoßajiem plüdiem, kad upe aizska- loja da¬u piekrastes p¬aviñas, abi upes krasti no- stiprinåti ar på¬iem. 80. gadu beigås te tika uzsåkti darbi, nedaudz saßaurinot Gaujas gultni, lai izvei- dotu droßåku un åtråku trasi airéßanas slaloma treniñiem un sacensîbåm. all those arriving in Valmiera by boat from the direction of Strençi. After the major floods of 1926, THE KAZU (“GOAT”) when the riverbank meadows were partly washed away, both banks of the river were reinforced with RAPIDS, piles. In the late 1980s, work began here to slightly narrow the bed of the Gauja in order to create a on the first bend in the River Gauja upstream of safer and faster whitewater slalom course for train- the city, may provide some thrilling moments for ing and races.

29 30 VALMIERAS TILTI THE BRIDGES OF VALMIERA

Lîdz 1865. gadam, kad tajå paßå vietå, kur Up to 1865, when the first bridge spanning the tagad atrodas pilsétas nozîmîgåkais tilts, uzcéla Gauja was built on the present location of the main pirmo tiltu pår Gauju, kas savienoja abas pilsétas bridge connecting the two parts of the town, Val- da¬as, Valmierå no KaugurmuiΩas varéja nok¬üt, miera was accessible from Kauguri Manor only by izmantojot pårceltuvi. Netålu no tilta atrodas kåd- ferry. Not far from the bridge are the old ice cellars. reizéjie ledus pagrabi. Nogåzé virs tiem vismaz sep- Recreated every summer for at least seventy years tiñdesmit gadu ik vasaru tiek atjaunota pu˚udobe on the slope above is a flowerbed displaying the ar Valmieras vårdu. town’s name. Valmierå pår Gauju ir çetri tilti — divi no tiem Valmiera has four bridges across the Gauja, two gåjéju. Vanßu tilts atrodas netålu no Pauku prie- of which are pedestrian bridges. The Suspension dém, kur pavasaros tiek rîkots Valmieras rokfes- Bridge is near the “Paukas Pines”, where the Val- tivåls. Pa Vanßu tiltu Pårgaujas iedzîvotåji var åtråk miera Rock Festival is held in spring. It gives nok¬üt Jåña Daliña stadionå vai pilsétas estrådé. Valmiera residents easy access to the Jånis Daliñß Senåkais Valmieras tilts ir 1912. gadå uzbüvétais Stadium and the city’s open-air stage. Valmiera’s AinaΩu–Valmieras–Smiltenes ßaurslieΩu dzelzce¬a oldest bridge is the one built for the AinaΩi–Val- tilts, kura dzelzs konstrukcija novietota uz laukak- miera–Smiltene Narrow Gauge Railway in 1912. mens müra balstiem. Péc dzelzce¬a slégßanas 70. The steel superstructure is placed on piers of boul- gados tilts lîdz ar dzelzce¬a uzbérumu k¬uvis par der masonry. After the line was closed in the 1970s, kåjåmgåjéju un riteñbraucéju iecienîtu ce¬u. the bridge and the railway embankment became a favourite route for pedestrians and cyclists.

31 DZIRNAVU EZERIˆÍ THE MILLPOND

såkotnéji bijusi da¬a no viduslaiku Valmieras originally formed part of the defences of aizsardzîbas sistémas, ko veidoja Råtsupîtes dambji Valmiera, which incorporated dams and sluice un slüΩas, ar kuru palîdzîbu tika uzstådinåts üdens, gates on the Råtsupîte stream, used to raise the karadarbîbai tuvojoties pilsétai. 19. gadsimtå tas, water level if there was a threat of attack. In the tåpat kå Råtsupîte, noß˚îra pilsétu no Valmiermui- 19th century, along with the Råtsupîte, the pond Ωas zemes. Dzirnavu ezeriñß atrodas pilsétas vidus- served to divide the town from the land of Valmiera laiku nocietinåjuma — Zilå bastiona — pakåjé. Manor. The Millpond lies at the foot of a medieval Ëdensdzirnavas iepretî tagadéjai Valmieras Dråmas defensive structure — the Blue Bastion. The water- teåtra ékai darbojås jau kopß 17. gadsimta, bet to mill, which was opposite the present Valmiera éku nojauca 1937. gadå. Theatre building, existed right from the 17th cen- tury, and was demolished in 1937. ELKU SALIˆA IDOL ISLAND

ir pirmskristietîbas laika kulta vieta, kur, péc is pre-Christian sacred site. According to legend, noståstiem, senatné bijusi svétbirzs vai, péc citas there was once a holy grove here or a holy oak with versijas — tur kådreiz audzis svétozols un atradu- images of the Gods Pérkons, Potrimps and Pîkols. ßies Dievu — Pérkona, Potrimpa un Pîkola — téli. In the course of archaeological excavation in 1979, 1979. gada izrakumos tajå tika atsegtas trîs pa- the remains of three hearths were found. No far vardu pédas. Netålu no tås tecéja Svétavots, kam from this place is the Holy Spring, credited with piemitußas dziednieciskas spéjas. healing powers.

32 KARÅTAVU KALNIˆÍ, GALLOWS HILL,

saukts arî par Runtiñkalnu, ir viduslaiku soda also known as Runtiñkalns, is a medieval place vieta, kas atradås årpus pilsétas. Karåtavu kalniñå of punishment, lying outside the town limits. On 1919. gada decembrî noßåva un apbedîja 11 komu- Gallows Hill, 11 Communist youths were shot and nistiski noskañotus jaunießus. Padomju laikå ßo buried in December 1919. In the Soviet era, the vietu pårdévéja par Komjaunießu kalniñu un iz- place was renamed “Communard Hill” and ex- mantoja propagandas nolükos, rîkojot uz to arî ploited for propaganda purposes, even organising låpu gåjienus. Pirmais péckara monumentålais an- processions by torchlight. The first major post-war samblis (télnieks Jånis Zariñß) Latvijå tika atklåts monument in Latvia was unveiled here in 1949 (by 1949. gadå. Tas apvieno izmantoto materiålu pie- sculptor Jånis Zariñß). Quite simple materials have ticîbu ar gaumîgi iekårtotu vidi. been used, and a tasteful setting has been created.

33 VECPUIÍU PARKS THE BACHELORS’ PARK

izveidots, apvienojot divus nelielus parkus — was created by joining two small parks: a park årsta, Valmieras pilsétas galvas un mecenåta Ge- behind the former house of the town executive orga Apiña pilsétai dåvinåto parku aiz kådreizéjå board, donated to the town by the medical doctor pilsétas valdes nama un 1914. gadå atklåto pub- and Mayor of Valmiera Georgs Apinis, and the lisko Pilsétas parku, ko iekårtoja Liljes måju vietå. public Town Park opened in 1914, established on Tå dibinåtåji — astoñi tolaik pazîstami Valmieras the site of the Lilje Farm. The creators of the park — iedzîvotåji — novéléja, ka péc viñu nåves tam pa- eight well-known Valmiera residents — bequeathed kåpeniski jåpåriet pilsétas îpaßumå. Lielåkå da¬a no the park to the town, to whose ownership it should viñiem neapprecéjås, tådé¬ parks ieguva Vecpuißu gradually be transferred after their death. Most of parka vårdu. Gados péc Otrå pasaules kara péc them never married, so the park obtained the name Freiberga projekta uzcelto paviljonu izmantoja gan “Bachelors’ Park”. The pavilion designed by Frei- par pilsétas kultüras namu, gan sporta zåli. Ilgu bergs served in the years after the Second World laiku namu neizmantoja; pielågojot kafejnîcas un War as the town’s cultural centre and as a sports boulinga zåles vajadzîbåm, saglabåja gan tam rak- hall. For a long time it was disused. Now it has sturîgås galerijas, gan atjaunoja vairåkas fasådes been adapted to the needs of a café and bowling deta¬as. Kåds noståsts vésta, ka tornîtis, kurå pa- hall, although the characteristic galleries have been viljona atklåßanas dienå muzicéja or˚estris, uzcelts, retained, and various exterior elements have been lai varétu vérot Haleja kométas tuvoßanos. restored. It is said that the small tower, where the orchestra played on the opening day of the pavi- lion, was built in order to observe the approach of Halley’s Comet.

34 dabas formas un pilsétas mérogus. Tå apdarei, tåpat kå Rîgas Brå¬u kapos, izmantots AllaΩu ßünakmens, bet galvenais téls ir Valmieras ©erboña saß˚eltå liepa. Lai arî da¬a elementu, arî bronzas åboli, kas bija novietoti zem augoßas åbeles un kurå autori bija ießifréjußi par an- samb¬a konkréto veltîjumu vispårî- gåkas idejas, zudusi 90. gados, kad Latviju postîja kråsaino metålu våk- ßanas kampaña, tomér tås kopums ir saglabåjies.

THE MEMORIAL ENSEMBLE ON LUCA HILL

Archaeological excavation has shown that in the 13th–15th centu- ry, Luca Hill was the site of a settle- ment of the indigenous inhabitants. It has been suggested that the hill was a sacred site connected with a Latgallian hill-fort. Later, the Ger- mans built a stone castle here. The Memorial Ensemble for the Soviet Soldiers Killed in the Second World War and the Victims of the Nazi Terror on Luca Hill completed in 1985, was one of the last such works erected in Latvia. It was cre- ated in order to rebury at one site all the Soviet soldiers who fell in the final part of the war and had been MEMORIÅLAIS ANSAMBLIS buried in various parishes of this LUCAS KALNÅ district, as well as victims of the Nazi terror. The design, by archi- Arheolo©iskie izrakumi pierådîjußi — 13.–15. tects ‰valds Fogelis, Jånis Lejnieks, Jånis Rutkis gadsimtå Lucas kalnå atradusies vietéjo iedzîvotåju and Andris Vîtols, created in collaboration with apmetne. Par ßo kalnu izteikts pieñémums — tå sculptors Zigrîda and Juris Rapa, respects the na- bijusi ar latga¬u pilskalnu saistîta svétvieta. Pils- tural forms and the scale of the city. AllaΩi Tufa is kalnå våcießi vélåk uzcélußi müra pili. 1985. gadå the stone utilised for decoration — the same as has pabeigtais Otrajå pasaules karå kritußo padomju been used for the Military Cemetery in Riga. The karavîru un faßisma terora upuru memoriålais an- main feature is the lime tree from the Valmiera coat samblis Lucas kalnå bija viens no pédéjiem ßåda of arms — which is shown torn asunder. Certain veida darbiem Latvijå. To izveidoja, lai vienkopus elements, such as the bronze apples placed under a pårapbedîtu kara beigås kritußos un rajona pagas- growing apple tree, symbolise more general ideas tos apbedîtos padomju armijas karavîrus, kå arî than the specific idea behind this memorial en- faßisma terora upurus. Péc arhitektu ‰valda Foge¬a, semble. The apples were stolen in the 1990s, when Jåña Lejnieka, Jåña Rutka un Andra Vîtola pro- Latvia suffered much damage in the rush to collect jekta, kas tapis, sadarbojoties ar télniekiem Zigrîdu and sell precious metals. Nevertheless, the monu- un Juri Rapåm, izveidots ansamblis, kas respekté ment has generally remained intact.

35 VALMIERAS DRÅMAS VALMIERA DRAMA TEÅTRIS THEATRE

ir Vidzemé vienîgais profesionålais teåtris. Tå is the only professional theatre in the Vidzeme pirmsåkumi saistîti ar 1919. gadå dibinåto Val- region, tracing its origins back to the Valmiera mieras Padomes teåtri. 20. gadsimta 20.–30. gados Soviet Theatre, founded in 1919. In the 1920s and tas brîΩiem darbojås kå profesionåls, palaikam kå 30s, it fluctuated between professional and amateur amatieru teåtris. Péckara gados teåtri, ko toreiz status. In the post-war years, the theatre, then sauca par Leona Paegles Valsts Valmieras dråmas known as the Leons Paegle State Valmiera Drama teåtri, vairåk nekå trîsdesmit gadus vadîja Péteris Theatre, was led for more than three decades by Lücis — le©endårais Oskara lomas atveidotåjs Péteris Lücis — who had became famous in the role populåråkajå pirmskara filmå “Zvejnieka déls”. of Oskars in the popular pre-war film “Fisherman’s Teåtra vésturiskås telpas, kas da¬éji bija uzceltas uz Son”. The old theatre premises, in a private home Térbatas bastiona un ko veidoja 1882. gadå nodi- partially overlying the former Tartu Bastion, which binåtås Latvießu biedrîbas iegådåtå privåtmåja, had been acquired by the Latvian Society (founded kam daΩus gadus vélåk piebüvéja izrîkojumu zåli, in 1882), and had been augmented with a hall some tika nojauktas, lai vietå uzceltu teåtra jauno éku. years later, were demolished in order to make way Tås septiñpadsmit gadu ilgußo büvniecîbu pabeidza for a new theatre building. Under construction for 2004. gada nogalé. Valmieras Dråmas teåtrî iestudé seventeen years, it was finally completed in late galvenokårt reålpsiholo©iska rakstura lugas, kas, 2004. Psychological realism dominates in produc- tåpat kå aktieri, bieΩi iegüst “Spélmañu nakts” bal- tions by Valmiera Drama Theatre, and the produc- vas. Teåtra ékå notiek arî koncerti un måkslas tions and actors have often won national prizes. izstådes, vietéjas un starptautiskas konferences. Also held in the theatre are concerts, art exhibitions Teåtris, kura iepriekßéjås telpås Rüdolfs Blaumanis and conferences. The theatre has established a fes- 1905. gadå iestudéja un arî pats téloja lugå tival tradition dedicated to the Latvian playwright “Ugunî”, iedibinåjis dramaturgam veltîta festivåla Rüdolfs Blaumanis: in 1905, he directed and played tradîciju. in a production of his own work “In the Fire”.

36 A. Çehova lugas “Tévocis Vaña” iestudéjums (2003) A production of Chekhov’s “Uncle Vanya” (2003)

H. Ibsena lugas “Jüras meita” iestudéjums (2004) A production of Ibsen’s “The Lady from the Sea” (2004)

37 KINOTEÅTRIS “GAISMA” THE “GAISMA” CINEMA

1951. gadå uzceltais kinoteåtris (projekta autors The cinema, dating from 1951 (designed by ˆesterjuks) lîdz ar Rîgas ielå netålu esoßo “veco Nesteryuk), along with the “old supermarket” on unîti” (arhitekts Péteris Saulîtis, 1953.–1955. gads) Rîgas Street from 1953–55 (designed by Péteris bija vienas no pirmajåm ékåm, ko Valmierå uzcéla Saulîtis), were among the first buildings construct- péc Otrå pasaules kara. Tås ir iespaidîgi Sta¬ina ed in Valmiera after the Second World War. These laika celtniecîbas paraugi, kas lîdz müsdienåm sa- are impressive examples of Stalinist architecture, glabåjußi arî lielu da¬u såkotnéjå interjera apdares. which have retained a large proportion of their Kinoteåtra “Gaisma” arhitektürå — galvenås faså- original interior decoration. The architecture of the des portikveida nißa — nepårprotama lîdzîba ar “Gaisma” Cinema, with the niche resembling a vairåkåm 30. gadu otrås puses Latvijas Republikas portico in the front of the building, betrays an un- sabiedrisko celtñu retrospektîvajåm tendencém. Fa- deniable resemblance to the retrospective tenden- sådes un interjera rotåjumå — kiçîgs un absurds cies seen in many public buildings from the second latvießu etnogråfisko un padomju simbolikas ap- half of the 1930s, in the time of the Republic of vienojums, kå arî laikam raksturîgu siΩetu izman- Latvia. The exterior and interior decoration fea- tojums. tures a kitschy and absurd combination of Latvian ethnographic motifs and Soviet symbols, along with scenes typical for this period.

38 JňA DALIˆA STADIONS

1938. gadå atklåto Jåña Daliña stadionu såka büvét 30. gadu vidü, jo senåkais LimbaΩu ielas sporta dårzs bija par mazu, lai varétu sarîkot starp- tautiskas sacensîbas un tajå iek¬ütu visi, kas véléjås redzét Latvijas tålaika populåråko sportistu Jåni Daliñu. Latvijas so¬otåjs, kurß 1932. gada Losan- dΩelosas olimpiskajås spélés izcînîja sudraba me- da¬u un vairåkkårt laboja pasaules rekordus, lîdz ar izciliem zinåtniekiem, kultüras un sabiedriskajiem darbiniekiem k¬uva par Tévzemes balvas laureåtu. Péckara gados Jånis Daliñß dzîvoja Austrålijå, bet apbedîts Valmieras pilsétas kapos. Stadionam Daliña vårdu pieß˚îra Atmodas laikå. Rekonstrué- to see Latvia’s most popular sportsman of the day, tajå stadionå sarîkoja pirmås TrîszvaigΩñu spéles, Jånis Daliñß. The Latvian racewalker won a silver un ik vasaru tajå tiek izcînîta Valsts prezidenta medal at the 1932 Los Angeles Olympics and se- balva vieglatlétikå. veral times broke world records. Along with out- standing figures in science, culture and society, he was awarded the Fatherland Prize. After the war, THE JÅNIS DALIˆÍ STADIUM Daliñß lived in Australia, but he is buried at Val- miera City Cemetery. The stadium was named after Work began in the mid-1930s on the Jånis Da- Daliñß in the time of the National Awakening. Held liñß Stadium, opened in 1938. The original sports in the renovated stadium were the first Three Stars field, on LimbaΩu Street, had become too small for Games, and every summer the President’s Prize in international events and for all the spectators eager athletics is contested here.

39 GALERIJA “LAIPA” THE “LAIPA” GALLERY

Pirms vairåk nekå desmit gadiem izveidota, sek- This successful private art gallery, established mîgi strådåjoßa privåta måkslas galerija, kas gal- more than a decade ago, mainly displays work by venokårt eksponé Vidzemes naivistus, vietéjos pro- the naive artists of Vidzeme, local professional fesionå¬us, jaunus måksliniekus. Tås rîkotås izstå- artists and young artists. The scope of its exhibi- des, glezniecîbas un fotoplenéri aptver ne tikai Val- tions and plein-air painting and photography mieru un Vidzemi. events extends beyond Valmiera and the Vidzeme region.

40 Teodora Ëdera glezna “Paßportrets ar Rubensu” (1907) “Self-portrait with Rubens”, a painting by T. Ëders (1907)

MÅKSLINIEKA TEODORA THE STUDIO OF ARTIST ËDERA DARBNÈCA TEODORS ËDERS

Namå Pårgaujå, kurå atradås måkslinieka Teo- On the opposite bank of the Gauja is a house dora Ëdera darbnîca, 20. gadsimta pirmajå pusé where the studio of artist Teodors Ëders was locat- neilgu laiku dzîvoja vairåki latvießu rakstnieki — ed, and which in the first half of the 20th century Påvils Rozîtis, Linards Laicens, Jånis Zieme¬nieks. was home for a short time to three Latvian writers: Igauña Rooka nama (tagad Teodora Ëdera ielå 9) Påvils Rozîtis, Linards Laicens and Jånis Zieme¬- jumta ståva divås telpås no 1907. lîdz 1915. gadam nieks. In two rooms in the attic of this house, atradås zîméßanas skolotåja un noma¬å måkslinieka owned by an Estonian named Rook (now 9 Teo- Teodora Ëdera (1868–1915) darbnîca. Viña sim- dora Ëdera Street), in 1907–1915 was the studio of boliskajiem un skarbu dzîves uztveri iemiesojoßa- drawing teacher and offbeat artist Teodors Ëders jiem ogles zîméjumiem ir bütiska nozîme Latvijas (1868–1915). His symbolic charcoal drawings, 20. gadsimta såkuma måkslå. Teodora Ëdera ietek- revealing a harsh perception of life, have a signifi- mé vairåki viña audzékñi — Emîls Melderis, Ernests cant place in early 20th century Latvian art. With un Arvîds Brastiñi, Marta Lange — nopietni pievér- his encouragement, several of his pupils — Emîls sås måkslai. 2002. gadå pie nama atklåja télnieka Melderis, Ernests and Arvîds Brastiñß and Marta Andra Vårpas veidotu piemiñas plåksni. Lange — later developed into major artists. In 2002, a memorial plaque by sculptor Andris Vårpa was unveiled at the house.

41 SKULPTËRA THE SCULPTURE “IZIRUÍÅS ROZES” “THE WILTED ROSES”

Kår¬a Zåles apjomîgå skulptüra “Izirußås rozes” The major sculpture “The wilted roses” by Kårlis îsti neiederas nelielajå Dîvala kapsétå un såkotnéji Zåle, in the Dîvals Cemetery is somewhat inappro- bija domåta Rîgas Brå¬u kapiem, bet 50. gados tur priate for such a small cemetery. It was originally neuzstådîto darbu, iespéjams, paglåbjot no iznî- intended for the Military Cemetery in Riga, but in cinåßanas, pårveda uz Valmieru. Dîvala kapsétas the 1950s the work, which had not been erected on nosaukums, iespéjams, ir lejasvåcu vårda deiwel the intended site, was possibly saved from destruc- (velns) latviskojums, ar ko péc kristietîbas ievießa- tion by being brought to Valmiera. The name of the nas varéja apzîmét kulta vietu netålajå Elku saliñå. Dîvals Cemetery may be a Latvian adaptation of the Lower German word deiwel (“Devil”), possibly a reference after the advent of Christianity to the sacred site at the nearby Idol Island.

42

SKULPTËRA “VELTÈJUMS JAUNAJAM GADSIMTAM”

Tolaik vél Måkslas aka- démijas studenta télnieka Gintera Krumholca darbs 2001. gadå tika uzstådîts vésturiskajå Garnizona lau- kumå Eiropas kultüras man- tojuma dienu laikå, netålu no 18. gadsimta beigås uz- celtås Krievijas tipveida zir- gu pasta stacijas ékas, kur uzturéjås tie, kas arî 19. gad- simtå izmantoja zviedru laikå izveidoto ce¬u, lai no- k¬ütu gan Péterburgå, gan Rietumeiropå. Íî skulptüra k¬uvusi par jauno Valmieras simbolu.

THE SCULPTURE “GIFT TO THE NEW CENTURY”

This work, by sculptor Ginters Krumholcs, then a student at the Latvian Aca- demy of Art, was erected in 2001 in the historic Garri- son Square during the Eu- ropean Heritage Days. It lies near the typical 18th century Russian post horse station, which provided ser- vices for those who in the 19th century used the road built already in the time of Swedish rule to reach St Petersburg or Western Eu- rope. The sculpture has be- come the new symbol of Valmiera.

44 45 Netålu no Valmieras atrodas vairåki uzmanîbas Not far from Valmiera are several sites worth vérti objekti. To starpå populåråkie un sakoptåkie — visiting. The most popular and best-maintained Sietiñiezis (Vaidavas pagastå) — 15 m augsts baltå include Sietiñiezis Rock (Vaidava Parish) — a 15- smilßakmens atsegums Gaujas labajå krastå; Zilais metre-high exposure of white sandstone on the kalns (Kocénu pagastå) — sena kulta vieta, kurå right bank of the Gauja; Zilais kalns (“Blue Moun- reiz atradies svétvietu komplekss, kas saistîts ar tain”, Kocéni Parish) — which once had a complex Lîgo svétku tradîcijåm, bieΩi pieminéts teikås, arî of ancient sacred sites connected with the Midsum- literåros darbos; kådreiz baronam Paulam Volfam mer (Lîgo) traditions, mentioned in many legends

46 piederéjusî Dik¬u muiΩas neobarokålå pils, kurå, and literary works; the Neobaroque Dik¬i Manor- to pielågojot viesnîcas vajadzîbåm, tika restauréts House formerly belonging to Baron Paul Wolff, vairåku telpu 19. gadsimta interjers; sporta båze where the 19th century interiors have been restored “Bai¬i” — iecienîts kalnu slépoßanas centrs. Tå in several rooms, adapting the house as a hotel; and nosaukums aizgüts no kådreiz tå vietå bijußajåm Bai¬i Recreation Centre — a favourite downhill ski- zemnieku måjåm, ko pagåjußajå gadsimta 30. ga- ing resort. The name is derived from the farmstead dos pazina kå vietéjo Norvé©iju. once located on the site, known in the 1930s as “our local piece of Norway”.

47 SATURS CONTENTS

Vésture 4 Historical Background 4 Pilsdrupas 9 The Castle Ruins 9 Vecå aptieka 10 The Old Pharmacy 10 Skulptüra “Valmieras puikas” 12 The sculpture “Boys of Valmiera” 12 Valterkalniñß 13 Valterkalniñß 13 Svétå Sîmaña baznîca 15 St Simon’s Church 15 Svétå RadoñeΩas Sergija baznîca 16 The Church of St Sergius of Radonezh 16 Svétås Jaunavas Marijas Romas 17 The Roman Catholic Church of 17 kato¬u baznîca the Holy Virgin Mary Råtslaukums 18 The Town Square 18 Hanzas siena 19 The Hansa Wall 19 Valmieras Valsts ©imnåzija 20 Valmiera Grammar School 20 Valmieras 5. vidusskola 21 Valmiera 5th Secondary School 21 Vidzemes Augstskola 22 Vidzeme University College 22 Valmieras Måkslas vidusskola 23 Valmiera Secondary Art School 23 Unibankas Valmieras filiåles éka 24 Valmiera Branch of Unibank 24 Vidzemes apgabaltiesa 25 Vidzeme Regional Court 25 Ugunsdzéséju tornis 26 The Fire Tower 26 Amatnieku namiñß 26 The Craftsmen’s Maisonette 26 Ståvie krasti 28 The steep riverbank 28 Kazu kråces 29 The Kazu (“Goat”) Rapids 29 Valmieras tilti 31 The bridges of Valmiera 31 Dzirnavu ezeriñß 32 The Millpond 32 Elku saliña 32 Idol Island 32 Karåtavu kalniñß 33 Gallows Hill 33 Vecpuißu parks 34 The Bachelors’ Park 34 Memoriålais ansamblis Lucas kalnå 35 The Memorial Ensemble on Luca Hill 35 Valmieras Dråmas teåtris 36 Valmiera Drama Theatre 36 Kinoteåtris “Gaisma” 38 The “Gaisma” Cinema 38 Jåña Daliña stadions 39 The Jånis Daliñß Stadium 39 Galerija “Laipa” 40 The “Laipa” Gallery 40 Måkslinieka Teodora Ëdera darbnîca 41 The studio of artist Teodors Ëders 41 Skulptüra “Izirußås rozes” 42 The sculpture “The wilted roses” 42 Skulptüra “Veltîjums jaunajam gadsimtam” 44 The sculpture “Gift to the New Century” 44

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