Things You Must Try in INSIDE INFO LET the South Korea BRACKET Page 14-15 BUSTING BEGIN

VOLUME 8 NO. 22 MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020 SUBMIT STORIES TO: [email protected] STRIPESKOREA.COM FACEBOOK.COM/STRIPESPACIFIC FREE

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Things you must try in INSIDE INFO LET THE South Korea BRACKET Page 14-15 BUSTING BEGIN

PAGES 12-13 Veterans see value of Stars and Stripes

BY STEVE BEYNON, Stars and Stripes began operations in the Michael Gerstmann, who served in the Army STARS AND STRIPES Civil War and has been a critical, and often as a cavalry scout in Afghanistan in 2009 and Published: February 14, 2020 the only, means for troops on the front lines to left the military as a staff sergeant in 2011. WASHINGTON — Many veterans are speak- keep up with the news back home. Even with “You know, there’s nothing to do in these ing out about the importance of Stars and the post-9/11 wars occurring in the internet [combat outposts]. If you aren’t doing mis- Stripes as a news source for troops in light of age, thousands of troops have been fighting sions or working out, not much is going on. the Pentagon’s decision this week to gut the in war zones where digital access is either in- Stripes was a good way to connect to home, historic news agency of its annual funding to convenient or nonexistent. even with some of the guys not being big free up more money for what it considers to “We were mostly on a mountain near the be crucial warfighting expenses. Pakistan border during the deployment,” said SEE VALUE ON PAGE 5 2 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020 y children Max D. Lederer Jr. r Publisher ita Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic il Commander M ur story! Joshua M Lashbrook yo Chief of Staff us or a longer story (300-word Chris Verigan ll Engagement Director te maximum, please). Or you Marie Woods can draw a picture or write a Publishing and Media Design Director ey, all you kids in the military community need to poem. But, whatever you do, Chris Carlson read this. Seriously! So, please put down your iPad, Publishing and Media Design Manager be yourself. Stand up and be iPhone or other digital device for the next couple of Eric Lee H heard. Advertising and Circulation Manager minutes. You’ll survive, and I promise no one will take them. Last year alone, we had Enrique “Rick” W. Villanueva Jr. Now that I have your attention, I want to give you a little more than 3,000 submis- Korea Area Manager job. No, wait! Don’t stop reading! If you do a little bit of work, Jinsun Song sions, but we got them all in Operations Manager you’ll have the opportunity to be heard by tens of thousands of the paper. This year, for sto- Kentaro Shimura people. Seriously! You see, April is the Month of the Military ries to run in the paper, they Production Manager Child, and for the ninth straight year, the Stars and Stripes must be submitted by April Rie Miyoshi Engagement Manager community publications are dedicating it to you, the children 15. As we approach another Denisse Rauda of our men and women in uniform. April, our team is ready Publishing and Media Design Editor Each Stripes Okinawa, Stripes Japan, Stripes for the onslaught. In fact, Publishing and Media Design Writers ChiHon Kim Korea and Stripes Guam issue in April will we’ve already received Shoji Kudaka contain your stories, poems, drawings hundreds and are al- Takahiro Takiguchi and photos about what life is like be- ready loading them Layout Designers Yukiyo Oda ing a military child. Stories must onto the website and Yuko Okazaki For those children who are part of be submitted getting them ready Kayoko Shimoda April 15 Multimedia Consultants the military community overseas but by for the papers. Max Genao Doug Johnson not technically a military child, we want to appear in By the way, Brian Jones Jason Lee to hear from you, too. You and your De- like every year, we’ve been in Hans Simpson Chae Pang Yi Stripes Korea! Gianni Youn Robert Zuckerman partment of Defense civilian parents are touch with teachers across the Pacific who are us- Graphic Designers also a key part of the military community. ing this as a class project. So be ready for that. For those Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji So, what’s life like as a military kid? Tell of you who haven’t participated in our annual salute, we hope Sales Support to hear from you this year. Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa us. We want to know. And after you share Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro with us, your story, poem or drawing will be Stars and Stripes is very proud to serve the military com- Yusuke Sato Chae Yon Son munity, and it’s an honor to spotlight its resourceful group of Saori Tamanaha Toshie Yoshimizu posted on our special Month of the Military website: Mili- tarychild.Stripes.com and could appear in at least one weekly children. paper. We can’t wait to hear from you! For feedback and inquiries, We are giving you a platform to say what you want. Of Chris Carlson, contact [email protected] course, to have your say, you have to write, type or draw Publishing and Media Design Manager To place an ad, call DSN 755-2255 it. You can be funny or serious. You can write a paragraph Stars and Stripes stripeskorea.com/contact MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 3 4 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020 ‘I can be whoever I want’ Newest American citizens sworn in at USFK ceremony

BY KENJI THULOWEIT, from Camp Casey. She joined the U.S. ARMY Army last February with South Korea being her first permanent fter raising their right hands and reciting the duty assignment. Her path to A Oath of Allegiance to the citizenship ceremony from the United States of Clarendon, Jamaica, was long America, 52 mem- and far in distance, bers of U.S. Forces but relatively short at Korea became Amer- the same time. ican citizens Feb. 13. “The process The group repre- started when I was in sented more than 20 [Advanced Individual different countries, Training] maybe six according to organiz- months ago and now ers, and traveled to here I am, a United U.S.F.K. headquar- States citizen,” said ters from across the Modha Grant. “It marks a Korean peninsula for new beginning for this once-in-a-life- me, new opportuni- time ceremony. ties, and I get to share Fifty two members of U.S. Forces Korea were sworn in as American citizens Feb. 13. Photo by Cpl. Jihwan Moon The majority of in the traditions of the citizenship, according to Mili- ROK-US Division. “I can start But, according to him, this has the new U.S. citi- United States. I’m re- tary OneSource. Among the my own business, I can be inde- been a longtime goal. zens are members ally excited to contin- benefits are shorter residency pendent on my own two feet.” “Just to be a citizen of the of Eighth Army with ue on this journey as some civilians and an American.” requirements, no state-of-resi- Modha, an AH-64 Attack He- United States of America; to sister services repre- Every year, thou- dence requirement and applica- licopter repairer, joined the U.S. keep supporting the land of the sented. sands of foreign-born tion fees are waived. Army out of St. Cloud, Florida. free as I serve in the Army for as Grant Specialist Simelia service members and “I can be whoever I want,” He says Indian law does not al- long as I can,” Modha said. Grant, 579th For- their family mem- said Pfc. Vishal Modha, 602nd low dual citizenship so people Officials say U.S.F.K. plans ward Support Company, 6-37th bers become U.S. naturalized Aviation Support Battalion, 2nd like him would have to turn in to hold another citizenship cer- Field Artillery Battery, made the citizens. Joining the military Combat Aviation Brigade, 2nd their Indian passport if they take emony at the beginning of the trip down to Camp Humphreys can offer a faster path to U.S. Infantry Division/Combined another country’s citizenship. summer. MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 5 VALUE: ‘Stars & Stripes was a link to home’

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1 facility] on [Combat Outpost] we look forward to the current Francisco-based nonprofit that generation, Stars and Stripes Speicher [in Iraq], and it was a budget proposal and beyond, provides services to veterans fac- holds historical significance to news people, it was still some- lifeline to what was happening the DOD must prioritize spending homelessness and unemploy- veterans of past generations. thing to do. Anything to take your back home. Read it front to back ing to support our warfighters in ment or struggling with disabili- David Nelson, a former cap- mind off stuff was always good.” every day I could,” said John Is- the most critical areas of need. ties or substance abuse. tain in the Marine Corps who In Afghanistan and Iraq, the may, a former Navy lieutenant Therefore, the department has “They do such incredible work served in 1971-1973, has kept U.S. military set up dozens of commander who handled bomb made the difficult decision that, covering the DOD and [Depart- decades-old copies of Stars and combat outposts where small disposals and now is a New York beginning in fiscal year 2021, it ment of Veterans Affairs], which Stripes. He said the newspa- numbers of troops would operate Times reporter. “Having a copy will no longer provide appropri- are our two largest bureaucra- per is “an important part of our out of in the most remote parts of in my hands made me feel con- ated funds to Stars and Stripes.” cies,” Miller tweeted. “Without military culture — especially for those countries. In many cases, nected to all those earlier genera- The Defense Department still their report, many advocates those serving in remote locations service members lived in austere tions of American service mem- needs to get its proposed budget would be left in the dark about overseas.” conditions sometimes devoid of bers I’d seen photos of holding through Congress. Whether con- what is going on in these two vital “From my year in Okinawa in plumbing and cooked food and their own copies in earlier wars.” gressional lawmakers will try to government agencies.” the early 70’s, I kept a number had few recreational amenities. The Defense Department has preserve Stars and Stripes’ fund- Kristen Rouse, a logistics offi- of my Stars and Stripes news- In rural Afghanistan, these out- proposed in its $705.4 billion ing is up in the air, though some cer who deployed to Afghanistan papers,” Nelson said. “If I had posts were sometimes located at budget for fiscal year 2021 to cut House members have signaled in 2006, 2010 and 2012, said Stars learned of the events and stories the bottom of a valley, conceding Stars and Stripes of its more than they will push back against the and Stripes was a way to connect portrayed strictly by electronic the high ground to the Taliban, means, I would not have been $15 million annual subsidy, which Pentagon ahead of the new fiscal with home and was one of the making them prone to constant able to preserve my recollections equals about half of the news or- year, which starts in Oct. 1. only news outlets reporting on attack. of those days.” ganization’s an- “Stars & Stripes stories relevant to troops serving Even in cases where troops And Nelson recounted some nual funds to pay was a link to home in combat zones. served in larger, more estab- EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: of historical front-page headlines expenses. Stars when I was in Iraq “Consistently, I found that lished bases with amenities from Stars and Stripes. and Stripes re- and Okinawa,” Stars and Stripes was the only such as coffee shops and fully “Look at the memories stored maining money tweeted Rep. Ru- media outlet that described the equipped gyms, the internet on one page of the Jan. 24, 1973, comes from sales, could still be a luxury, making it ben Gallego, D- world I was living [and] operat- Stars and Stripes — the an- difficult to keep up with current subscriptions and advertising. Ariz., a Marine veteran. “It’s an ing in,” she said. nouncements of LBJ’s death, the events. In a lot of cases at bases Defense Secretary Mark Es- A+ indie take on everyday DoD Rouse served with the Army’s Supreme Court decision in Roe such as Camp Leatherneck and per on Thursday defended the news, f*** ups, and Administra- 10th Mountain Division and later v. Wade, the Paris peace talks Kandahar Airfield in Afghani- Pentagon’s decision to strip Stars tion & General Officer BS. No the Vermont National Guard’s preceding the end of the Viet- stan, troops would have to go to and Stripes of its federal funding, wonder this President [Donald 3rd Battalion, 172nd Infantry nam War, and George Foreman’s recreation centers and wait in a telling reporters in Europe that Trump] wants to cut it. He’s got Regiment, she is also the presi- boxing knock-out of Joe Frazier,” line for time-limited internet use the independent news organiza- a fight on his hands.” dent of the NYC Veterans Alli- Nelson said. “What a treasure on a slow connection. In those tion is not a priority. Kevin Miller, a former Ma- ance and board member of Iraq and keepsake that issue of Stars cases, service members mostly “Their hard work and dedica- rine Corps infantry sergeant who and Afghanistan Veterans of and Stripes has been to me for used the time to communicate tion in reporting on issues that served in Iraq, called the pro- America, both are veterans advo- the past 47 years, along with with their families. matter the most to the military posal to cut funding to Stars and cacy groups. many other issues.” “I grabbed hard copies of Stars community continues to be of Stripes a “travesty.” Miller works Beyond the contemporary ser- [email protected] and Stripes outside the [dining value,” Esper said. “However, as for Swords to Plowshares, a San vice members of the post-9/11 Twitter: @StevenBeynon

onto the College Acceptance 6 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020 What to know about face masks amid growing coronavirus concerns BY BRAD JAPHE, world. of oranges,” she says. “Turmeric SPECIAL TO THE WASHINGTON POST How truly effective are masks, and vitamin D also work as im- and when should people consider mune-boosters.” he new coronavirus donning them? We queried a wide (2019-nCoV) is now re- range of medical professionals One size doesn’t T sponsible for 17,228 con- on the matter to see what they fit all firmed cases in China, reported believe travelers should know in If you’re of the “better safe by the country’s National Health the wake of the outbreak. than sorry” camp, remember to Commission on Feb. 3, and con- consider a mask’s size and rat- firmed cases of the strain in 23 A cover, but not ing. countries outside China, accord- “N-95 masks, which are used ing to the World Health Orga- a cure-all “The regular kind of mask by health-care workers, would nization. As with any outbreak, you’d find online is not all that be the most effective,” says Rich- global travelers have the risk of helpful against any kind of vi- ard Seidman, the chief medical exposure on their minds -- as evi- rus,” warns Amy Shah, a double officer of L.A. Care Health Plan. denced by masks on their faces. Passing through any internation- board-certified medical doctor “They are tighter-fitting and able al terminal as of late, it’s impos- in allergy and immunology. “Is to filter smaller airborne par- sible to ignore a sizable uptick it bad? No. It’s not like it’s harm- ticles. Those found in drugstores in self-imposed muzzlings. They ful. But will it completely protect don’t fit as well and can’t protect represent not just wary passen- you? No. The best thing you can against viruses that might be ex- gers, but also airport staff, flight do is wash your hands frequently pelled in a cough or sneeze.” attendants and ground crew. – with water and antibacterial In a pinch, making sure the The practice remains unad- soap for at least 20 seconds – and mask forms a tight seal around vised by the Center for Disease to keep your immune system your nose and mouth is probably Control: “CDC does not cur- up,” she says. more important than the specific To that end, she offers dis- mask used. A woman wearing a protective mask waits rently recommend the use of for her flight at the international airport in face masks among the general posable gloves as a more effec- Manila, Philippines, on Feb. 4. AP public,” reads the most up-to- tive form of prevention when Some scenarios date FAQ on the federal agency’s traveling than the stereotypical warrant it website. But that hasn’t stopped surgical mask. And as a more There are situations where who are already sick, rather American has died of nCoV,” travelers from stocking up: Am- practical measure, she suggests wearing a mask makes more than those worried about coming he says, pointing out that only a azon is temporarily sold out of assisting self-defense with lots of practical sense than others. Pat- down with something. handful of Americans were cur- many of its top-selling disposable vitamin C in the form of food. rick Sanchez, a health-care pro- “Most studies have shown rently known to have developed varieties; they’re easily spotted “Leafy greens are a great fessional based in Sacramento, masks to be of greatest benefit to nCoV infection. (The number on faces in airports across the source, more so than eating a ton recommends masks for people those that are actually sick, help- was 11 U.S. cases as of Feb. 3.) ing to prevent them from spread- “In contrast, the current 2019- ing an infection to others,” he 20 flu season has already seen says. If you feel the symptoms of 15 million Americans become fever or a head cold, he recom- ill with flu and 8,200 American mends strapping one on. deaths.” Other instances may call for He urges travelers to take into a face mask as well. If you’re account the risk of the flu instead, around a lot of sick people, such and take the appropriate steps as someone in the medical field, for its prevention. Common- then it makes sense to wear one. sense precautions and practices It’s also of value for those sus- are far more instrumental in the ceptible to allergies or air pol- prevention of seasonal respira- lutants; a mask is far more likely tory viruses like influenza. Chief to ward off dust and pollen than among them, according to Mulli- airborne pathogens. gan, include washing your hands The Transportation Security often, cleaning and disinfecting Administration, for its part, has frequently touched objects and authorized its front-line person- surfaces, and getting the flu shot. nel - who routinely come into “I encourage everyone to get close contact with the traveling the flu shot this season as soon public - to voluntarily wear sur- as possible,” he says. “It is very gical masks. And a spokesperson safe, but sadly, less than 50 per- for Delta tells The Washington cent of the U.S. population gets a Post that the airline supports flu shot each year.” its employees’ choice to wear masks, even going so far as to Don’t mask your provide them for Asian-based best defense crews to use at their discretion. Although the benefits of a mask remain contentious, ex- Keep perspective: perts agree that the only defini- Consider the flu tive downside is a false sense of Mark Mulligan, division di- security. rector of infectious diseases and “It’s frustrating, because you director of the Vaccine Center at want the answer to be a supple- NYU Langone Health, advises ment. But it’s really all about the average American traveler good sleep and stress control,” against buying a mask, because says Shah, the allergy and im- the virus is not circulating in munology expert. “In any sort of the United States the way it is in disease prevention, your own im- China. mune system is always the best “Remember, so far, no weapon.” MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 7 Yeongseon Bulgogi a real treat hapskorea.com in 1972, this independently- by the Yeongseon 1-dong com- HAPS KOREA MAGAZINE owned restaurant specializ- munity head. eongseon Bulgogi ing in barbecued beef boasts Yeongseon Bulgo- has been satisfying customers that have been din- gi’s most popu- Y hungry patrons for ing there for decades. It also lar menu item almost a half century. Opened comes highly recommended is sobulgogi (barbecued beef) for 9,000 won. It’s made with veg- etables, glass noo- dles and seasoned beef that are boiled together in a casserole pot. Insider tip: the community head Seoul recommends wrapping the beef in sliced white radish before eat- ADDRESS: 42, Namhang-ro 49beon-gil, Yeongdo-gu ing, as the sweet and salty HOW TO GET THERE: Nampo Station (Metro line 1), exit 6. Take bulgogi pairs well with the buses 82 or 85 near the exit and get off at the Yeongseon 119 crunchy and sour radish. Fire House bus stop. Yeongseon Bulgogi is located across from Afterward, if you’re Yeongdo Fire Station. still hungry, definitely HOURS: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., closed on national holidays. INFORMATION: try their bokkeumbap 051-416-7570 (fried rice), a dish that features grilled samgyeopsal (pork belly), shredded radish and bean sprouts mixed with rice and cooked on a hot order extra samgyeopsal for their meal. Its flavor is out grill. Customers will often the bokkeumbap at the end of of this world. 8 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020

Photo courtesy of Inje stadium Photo courtesy of Inje stadium

STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHIHON KIM, lights? Go-karting tracks in South Korea are bringing used to the track, but soon I was flying at a speed of 70 STRIPES KOREA the speed and action you may be looking for. km per hour. I felt like I was in a convertible going way A recent trend in the country is combining go-karts faster than that. With every turn, the massive G-force ave you been searching for an and high-speed racetracks for an experience beyond reminded me I was driving on a real racetrack. escape from the city where you what you’d expect. can roam freely on the road I recently visited Inje Speedium, a go-kart racing without traffic jams or traffic venue featuring a sea horse-shaped course with vari- About the karts H There are three types of karts you can ride at Inje ous elevation changes where you can get your kicks by Stadium. The first is a recreational cart (25000 KRW driving freely and very fast. or about $22 per 10 min) which is the standard go-kart Inje Speedium is a place where people who dream of available in the states. These karts are for children over becoming professional racers can go to try their hand at karting on a circuit like a professional. The race track 11 years old, as they are low-speed and are mostly just meets the global standards (Federation Internationale for entertainment. de L’Automobile -FIA Grade In Korea, a go-kart is commonly referred to as small 2), drawing kart enthusiasts kart for kids. So, don’t expect the from all over. A grove of birch trees. Photo courtesy of gangwon-do U.S. standard go-kart when you provincial office Unlike other karting ask for one in Korea, they will tracks, this track has a surely take you children’s kart. width of about 14 meters Instead, ask for a circuit kart. and is 1.3 km long. So, Circuit karts weigh about 154 bring your friends because pounds, are powered by four- the generous width of the stroke engines with nine horse- circuit allows others to at- power and will set you back about tempt to whiz by as they vie 30,000 KRW per 10 minutes. for first place. If you want to try the Let’s goIt took mego-karting! about a lap to get fastest kart in Inje, choose

Hapgang makguksu (Noodle restaurant) hile in Gangwon-do province, you should try makguksu, the local noodle made from fresh potatoes. Everywhere you go, you Wwill notice there are plenty of makguksu restaurants to choose from. Three of the most well-known makguksu restaurants are Wondae makgusu, NamBuk-myeonok, and Hapgang makguksu. I chose the Hapgang makguksu restaurant, which is located near the mouth of Nearincheon(stream), because the other two were closed that day and a bit far from where I was. I ordered the basic makguksu noodle (7,000KRW). Before digging in, the restaurant server suggested adjusting the seasoning with vinegar, sugar and sesame oil to my liking. They serve the makguksu noodle with pan-fried Topu, white Kimchi, hot broth and kimjang Kimchi with oysters. All the side dishes were fresh and delicious. The dark-colored noodle, served with spiced pollack and seaweed, really had a chewy texture and its taste of sweet and tangy. “Many westerners visit here to enjoy the new dining experience, if the red pepper sauce (gochujang) is too hot for your plate, add a little broth, it will neutralize the spicy flavor and tastes different,” said, Yun Yeongsil, the owner of the restaurant. They had really tasty dishes and generous servings considering its price. If you want to take a rest from the fatigue of your journey, Photo courtesy of Inje Stadium visit Hakgang makguksu near the downtown area of Inje.

ADDRESS: 15, Inje-ro 291beon-gil, Inje-eup, Inje-gun, Gangwon-do MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 9

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

nAll kart services are available in Inje stadium only after 4:30 p.m. during the winter season. During the regular season, go-karters can use the track at a different time, but need to make a reservation through the stadium website. nWhat to bring – International or domestic driver’s license (military driver’s license is not accepted) nBring gloves and wear long-sleeved shirt, pants and running shoes while you race.

ADDRESS: Inje International Circuit, 242-2 Buku-ri, Girin-myeon, Inje-gun, Gangwon-do, South Korea PHONE: +82 2 561 6990 CIRCUIT TYPE: Permanent road course GETTING THERE BY CAR Camp Humphreys to Inje International Circuit (3h 20 min) Osan Air Base to Inje International Circuit (3h 10 min) HOMEPAGE: https://www.speedium.co.kr/ (KOR/ENG) Make sure check the operation calendar Inje Speedium in the homepage to avoid a scheduling conflict with a Classic car museum professional auto race team.

irectly across from the track’s grandstands, find the Inje Speedium Classic Car Museum, featuring a touch of nostalgia with vintage cars. Check out the seven different display Dspaces featuring classic cars. Hop into a light-weight roadster MG MGB from the late 1960s for a quick pic. The space of the museum divided into various zones inspired by racecar films. Check out the old garage and gas station zone, part of a scene from Australian crime thriller the “racing kart.” “Son of a Gun,” which features many cars from the 1970s to 2000. The size of the museum is This kart is faster and smaller than others and the entrance fee is not cheap (12,000 won per adult) considering the more expensive than the number of displays. But, for classic car enthusiasts, this is worth a gander. circuit kart at 50,000 KRW per 10 minutes. This one nPRICE: Adult 12,000 KRW, Juvenile (age of 14 to 19) 9,000 KRW, Child (age of 4 to 13), requires getting a circuit li- Service person (7,200 fKRW) cense through a 150-minute n class (100,000 KRW). Check it out OPEN HOURS: Jan to Dec 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (closed every Monday) The track is a fun way to get some speed and have fun with your friends and family. Also, good to note: karting experiences vary by stadium, thus making it worth your time to try them out and find the perfect fit for you. And, while you’re there, take some time to enjoy the nature that surrounds the track. The mountainous region of Gwangwon-do is home to Wonaeri, a birch forest that is great for hiking. The forest is rich in snow- FASTER: white birch, which grows thick along the mountain path. MORE GO-KARTING (Note: Entrance into the forest will be available after May 16 this year.) Photo courtesy of Paju city hall To counter the stroll through the forest, a thrilling go- kart race at high velocity might be just what you need. Inje stadium will definitely have you flying by the seat of here are only two places in Korea where the official go-karting racing competition is held: Paju your kart and feeling like a professional driver. Speed Park and Korea International Circuit (KIC). The coolest thing about these tracks is that [email protected] T there is no speed limit, unlike the Inje Speedium track with a max speed limit of 70 km. Located in the Yeongam-gun, Jeollanam-do region, the Korea International Circuit (KIC) is the hy- brid F1 circuit that is about a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Camp Humphreys and Osan Air Base. Their miniature go-kart circuit reflects the feature of the real F1 race track. Their sport kart has a top speed of 60km and costs 25,000KRW per 10 min. You’ll need to get a circuit license (about 150 min. and 100,000 won) if you want to drive a racing kart with no speed limit. The Paju Speed Park is located north of Gyeongi-do, and its 1.2 km-long, 12-meter wide kart circuit is just for the go-karting (50,000KRW per 10 min). Racing from the 12 corners and 2 hairpin corners are the real charm of go-karting. You know, drifting kart in Mario Kart game is easy as a pie, but the real racing was a different story. And who knows, you may just be a racing champion in the making. Some of the best professional drivers - Michael Schumacher, Daniel Riccardo, and Lewis Hamilton - all began their motorsport careers in karts.

nKIC ADDRESS: 2, Epeuwon-ro, Yeongam-gun, Jeollanam-do PHONE: 070-4277-7788 HOMEPAGE: http://www.koreacircuit.kr/ nPAJU SPEED PARK ADDRESS: 261-1, Deokcheon-ri, Papyeong-myeon, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do HOMEPAGE: http://www.pspark.co.kr/ OPERATION HOUR: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (winter time), 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. (summer time)

THINGS TO KNOW nYou need an international or domestic driver’s license (military driver’s license is not accepted.) Karting Circuit in KIC nAt Paju Speed Park, you don’t need to get an additional circuit license for fast kart like at other circuits. Karting Circuit in KIC nPaju Speed park will give you some basic techniques for about 10 minutes free of charge. 10 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020

A perfect place to unwind for Seoulites! TRAZY.COM

iving in Seoul rarely makes you bored with L fancy shopping malls, never ending food adventures, and entertaining shows & events happening everywhere. But then, you suddenly come across this moment where you miss rich greenery, mountain serenity, and tranquility of a calm lake. If you do, here is an easy solution for Seou- lites with an urge for a placid Gapyeong natural landscape. Pack for a Chuncheon day trip and drive away from skyscrapers of Seoul just for 90 minutes. The Chuncheon & Gapyeong area is here to help Nami Island: A fairy world all year round you get away from the hectic city life. ocated 30 minutes southwest of Nami Island’s emblematic place, the Chuncheon, the half-moon shaped Nami Metasequoia lane marks the island’s spring with L Island declared itself the Naminara young leaves tinged with yellowish green. The Republic where fairy tales are alive and tree road, then, boasts lush greenery in summer. happiness flourishes. In the island with this The falling leaves in autumn turn the whole lane interesting theme, you call the dock to Nami vivid yellow. Need I say more? The path covered Island “Immigration” and the ticket, a “Visa”. in white snow can’t be more romantic in winter.

Garden of Morning Calm: A garden of classic elegance

ou may have seen this place on TV without knowing it’s the Garden of Morning Calm as it has been a filming location for Y several TV shows including the hit drama, “Moonlight Drawn by Clouds”. Named after Korea’s old nickname, “the Land of Morning Calm”, the Garden of Morning Calm showcases Korea’s natural beauty and the charm of architecture built harmoniously with the surroundings. This whole botanical garden consists of 25 uniquely themed areas such as the Conifer Garden, Millennium Juniper and the Rose of Sharon Garden. You can see from a garden filled with pleasant herbal scents to the thousand-year-old juniper tree at the Garden of Morning Calm.

Petite France: A French village in the countryside of Korea

eep in the countryside of Gyeonggi from France. Furniture and household items Province, overlooking the calm such as silverware used in the 18th century D Cheongpyeong Lake, is a small are displayed in the houses to show how the French cultural village called “Petite French people lived in the past. France”. From the entrance to the village, Sit in the town square surrounded by small French cottages painted in pastel colors buildings with red brief roofs and look down capture visitors’ eyes. into the Cheongpyeong Lake. You will feel just Some of the constructions are the real as if you were having a relaxing holiday in a 150-year-old French homes that were moved small rural village in France. MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 11 A spring stroll along the Igidae Coastal Walk

HAPS KOREA MAGAZINE one side, the sea on the other. It is a every late October over beautiful great place where trekkers of vari- Gwangalli Beach and the surround- he Igidae Coastal Walk fea- ous skill levels can find a path that ing environment. tures 4.7 kilometers stretch- best meets their abilities. How to get there: Kyungsung Ting from Igidae Dongsaeng- Take a well-deserved University/Pukyong National Uni- mal to Oryukdo Sunrise break at the jagalma-dang versity Station (Metro line 2), exit Park. (pebble beach) or at the 3. Cross the street and take buses The course takes rough- observation area along the 22, 24 or 27 at the stop near Paris ly one hour to complete way. As a welcome bonus, Baguette. Get off at the Igidae en- at a leisurely pace. Just hapskorea.com the Igidae Coastal Walk trance (이기대입구) stop. Walk ahead relax and walk along the is a wonderful alterna- through the entrance or enter beautiful landscape with a bottle of tive destination to view the annual the Igidae Coastal Walk from the cool water and enjoy the forest on fireworks that light up the night sky Oruykdo Islands stop. Photos by Kenneth May, Instagram @busangroundfish 12 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020

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ore than 50 million brackets will be filled out this year 2 2 as the annual madness breaks out again in March. So, 15 15 don’t be that person who doesn’t fill one out. Here’s a blank one for you, courtesy of Lakeland University! M NCAA CHAMPION 1 1

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The odds of filling out a perfect 1 1 3 individuals have won bracket are one in an NCAA title as a 16 16 The first 9,223,372, NCAA Men’s player and as a coach: 8 8 036,854, Basketball Joe B. Hall, Bob Knight 9 9 775,808. Tourney was held and Dean Smith. 5 5 in 1939 ... and 12 12 consisted of only 4 4 8 teams. 13 2020 NCAA Tournament 13 6 6 Final Four 11 11

3 3 14 14 Bet you didn’t know! 7 7 Famous 10 10

2 2 UCLA head coach

15 15 John Wooden has the most national titles with 10. Among active 1 NCAA CHAMPION 1 UConn is the men’s coaches, Duke’s 16 16 only school to win Mike Krzyzewski his-and-hers national 8 8 leads the way with 4. titles in the same year. 9 9 The women’s team won 5 5 theirs one day after 12 12 the men in 2004 and 4 4 again in 2014. 13 13 All four No. 1 seeds 6 6 advanced to the Final 11 11 Four once, when Kansas, The National 3 3 North Carolina, UCLA Invitation Tournament, and Memphis met in 14 14 or NIT, was once the 7 7 2008. On the flip side, top tourney in the land. there have been 3 times 10 10 The NIT started in where none of the No. 1 2 2 1938 - a year before seeds made it.

15 15 the NCAA tourney. 14 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020

Skyline Photo courtesy of Koridoor Tours

Things you must in try South Korea KORIDOOR TOURS bitterness of the cold war and a nation process to lock on a tour date for the Amusement Parks that is separated but technically still in Blue House, but it is well worth it to see outh Korea, or the “Land of the a state of war. where the country’s leadership resides. For those people who enjoy theme Morning Calm,” is quite often Take note as tours to this area have When you walk around Seoul, you parks, you are going to fall in love with S seen or heard about in the media been temporarily suspended by the may come across a place called Jogye Everland. Everland is home to the fast- due to rising tensions with the North, U.S.-led United Nations Command. Temple. Joyge Temple has the largest est roller coaster in Asia. There several but this article will not dwell in the The War Memorial in Seoul, however, worship hall in Seoul. It features Bud- other fast rides to fulfill the needs of an negative side, but rather the positive. is still open to provide you with your dhism as the local religion and its incor- adrenaline junky. Animal lovers can ex- Home to over 30,000 U.S. military per- history fix. Learn about the conflict that porated elements, Shamanism and its perience a “safari.” You can meet a va- sonnel and their families, South Korea happened over 50 years ago that still af- ideology. Furthermore, you can check riety of animals, including the King of is full of activities and places to help fects current events to this day. on other parts of Korean Buddhism as animals. foreigners enjoy their time here. If you like to read everything, then there are special shrines set aside in Next on our list is the Lotte Aquarium. prepare yourself to spend hours here many temples. It features beluga whales, sea otters, pen- taking in all the information that this Last but certainly not least, don’t for- guins and much more. The best part JSA place has to offer. get to check out the Suwon Fortress. is watching those furry and cute sea Complete your stay with a stop at some otters during feeding time. Gyeongbok Palace of these places and learn how Korea operated in ancient times. A-Z Shopping in Korea Don’t miss out on partaking in some shopping. What would a visit be without buying some memorable knick knacks? There is everything, from souvenirs and cosmetics to clothing. Good prices and Photo courtesy of Koridoor Tours Photo courtesy of Koridoor Tours good quality. There is quite a selection of tradi- N Seoul Tower Cross the border to North Korea tional market places and shopping dis- The DMZ is one of the most heavily- Feeling the history tricts to choose from in Seoul. The most guarded / armed country borders in the in middle of modern city popular places are Namdaemun, Dong- world. Besides the Gyeongbokgung and daemun, Myeongdong, and Insadong. From the third tunnel to the Joint Changdeokgung Palaces, there are Most traditional souvenirs are found Security Area (JSA), this destina- many more places to check out in Seoul. in Insadong. Myeongdong is more of a tion serves as a stark reminder of the You may have to go through a bit of a trendy shopping area.

Namdaemun

Everland

File photo

Suwon Fortress

Lotte World Photo courtesy of Koridoor Tours File photo File photo MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 15

Tropical Island in Korea Seoul Skyline South Korea’s version of Hawaii, N Seoul Tower, located on Namsan Jeju Island has its own culture, dialect, Mountain, will give you an amazing style, a beautiful aqua blue ocean view view of the lights and night life of Ko- and a warm sun for those that despise rea. You can take a cable car up and cold weather. In 2011, Jeju Island was be rewarded with an amazing view of named one of the New 7 Wonders of the Seoul skyline. This is where couples Nature and is increasingly becoming come with locks as a symbol of their love a popular travel destination for both and tie it to the fence. If you visit there domestic and overseas tourists. Jeju with your loved one, bring a lock along. Island was formed by volcanic lava And don’t forget the check out the N tow- meat (mostly beef or pork) how you like This fish market is chaotic and not flows. Stay in Jeju City and explore the er’s observatory deck. You can see 360° it. During your meal, you will get an un- organized, but you can negotiate with the island’s beaches, parks, and towns dur- view of Seoul skyline. Always a beautiful limited side dishes. seller for your preferred price. After pur- ing an overnight trip. view, but nighttime is the best. If you want a fishy experience, then chase, they will immediately take the fish There are many more things to do in head over to the famous Fish Market lo- from the tank and cut it up. From there, Korea, but his list will get you started cated in Seoul. All the fish are alive and you can go to a restaurant and have them on the right foot. Be sure to stop by Ko- Meat vs. Fish swimming in tanks. Can’t get prepare the fish the ridoor tours for more information on all Korean BBQ is the most traditional any fresher than that. way you’d like. of these activities. and famous Korean meal. Korean BBQ restaurants are very similar. You’ll sit down at a table with a fire grill in the middle, and then you get to cook your

Koridoor Tours TEL: +82 2 6383 2570 Ext.1 EMAIL: [email protected]

Jeju Island

Photos courtesy of Koridoor Tours 16 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020

Ceremonial Stone Money Carry Photo by Joyce McClure

BY JOYCE MCCLURE, transporting it across several hundred miles of open WWW.GOWORLDTRAVEL.COM ocean from an ancient quarry on the neighboring island of Palau. Today, the massive wheels – the center hole wo of the largest and rarest things in the world, was used to carry them on bamboo poles to their final one made by man and the other by Mother Na- resting places – can be seen throughout the island lean- ture, are found on Yap, the small, remote island T ing against houses and community buildings. Others are that is a close neighbor of Guam. One of the four states kept in well-tended, open-air sites called Stone Money of the Federated States of Micronesia, Yap is made up Banks. Few are ever moved but their provenance and of four large, contiguous islands, seven small islands ownership are maintained in the collective memory and and 134 atolls that stretch across 100,000SMALL square miles ISLAND,passed on through oral storytelling. of ocean of which 22 islands and atolls are inhabited. The other massive disc-shaped item in Yap that is With only 7,000 residents on the main island and 11,000 equally well-known is found in the surrounding, protect- in all, Yap has a long history and very old culture that ed reef where a resident population of manta rays lives. spans several thousand years and is considered among While less hefty in weight than stone money at close to the best preserved in the Pacific region. LARGE RARITIES two tons, the behemoths can grow up to an average of When the Spanish arrived in the 16th century, the 10 to 12 feet in diameter or more and are well-known large wheels of limestone known as “Stone Money” or Mangyol Stone Money Bank, Yap Photo by Joyce McClure among devoted divers who consider Yap one of the top “Rai” were already being used as currency. Found no- ten diving destinations in the world. where else in the world, no one knows for sure when payment. The winter months from December to April offer the orONE why the hand-chiseled, donut-shaped wheels origi- most exciting diving. This is the time when small groups At its largest, Stone Money has a diameter of up to 12 nated. Some estimates suggest they may have been in feet and weighs approximately 15 tons. The smallest is of the manta rays are engaged in courtship and mating use as early as 1200 BC. But they are still used today just a few inches across. But size does not determine its rituals with lines of the gentle creatures dancing togeth- for certain types of trade and social transactions such as value. Brought to the island on bamboo rafts towed by er in trains. At this and other times of the year, the rays marriage, inheritance or to settle a disagreement, even hand-made canoes, value is based on the history of each stop at cleaning stations where small cleaner fish though American dollars areTWO now the daily method of disk and any hardships or even deaths associated with swim in and round the giants removing parasites,

Stone Money Bank, Yap Photo by Joyce McClure MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 17

Manta Ray Photo by Brad Holland

Yap Isla ROTA nds GUAM There are two flights a week from Guam to Yap on United. Accommodations

Colonia include two small dive resorts,GETTING two THEREeconomy v hotels, an eco-lodge and an historic inn. For more information about this island haven, visit the Yap Visitors Bureau 50km YAP website at www.visityap.com. Manta Ray Photo by Manta Ray Resort & Yap Divers

flaking skin and other matter. Divers and snor- skills to the next generation; take a guided land tour and and canoe building and paddling. The two-day event is kelers visiting Yap also come to swim among reef learn about Yap’s WWII history while looking for one of put on by the Yapese for the Yapese, but visitors are sharks, sea cucumbers, turtles, tuna, brilliantly colored the island’s indigenous birds or plants; or just relax and warmly welcomed and invited to taste local foods, sip corals and reef fish, and many other species of sea life. enjoy a massage. the juice from a fresh coconut; learn how to weave a It’s an underwater photographer’s playground. To see the culture on display, go for Yap Day at the basket from a single palm leaf; make a grass skirt or a Not a diver? Not a problem. Go kayaking amid the beginning of March when families and friends gather to nunuw, the flower head wreath worn by both men and mangroves; stop by the canoe house on the lagoon and celebrate with a colorful festival of traditional dances, women; or try your hand at wrapping on a thu’u, the visit with master canoe builders as they pass on their games like betelnut tree climbing, crafts demonstrations loincloth worn by men. 18 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020

Palm trees and pristine beaches abound on Rarotonga’s sparsely-populated south shore. Photo by Walter Nicklin, For The Washington Post

Why the Cook Islands should be included on everyone’s vacation bucket list

BY WALTER NICKLIN, prospect of a 13-hour flight to New Zealand arrival in the Americas, my landing here SPECIAL TO THE WASHINGTON POST (my ultimate destination) that I sought sol- is serendipitous, on my way to somewhere ace in breaking the flying time up into more else — confirming that the “final destina- he Cook Islands — a cluster of very manageable segments. The Cook Islands tion” is seldom travel’s most valuable re- tiny atolls and reefs in the vast ex- would be my lily pad: 10 hours from Los ward. T panse of the South Pacific — have Angeles to Rarotonga (the largest of the 15 Until now mapped on my conscious- never been on my bucket list of travel Cook Islands) and then, after a couple of ness hardly at all, the destinations. Their image as a tropical is- relaxing days recovering from jet lag, four 15 volcanic islands land paradise conjures up endless (and more hours to Auckland. For the first leg, and coral atolls therefore boring) white sandy, palm-lined Air New Zealand offers the only di- of the Cook Is- beaches with nothing to do but soak up the rect flight linking the U.S. mainland lands meant sun. to the Cook Islands — departing LAX idealized im- Yet here I am now — sipping coconut every Saturday a bit before midnight. ages of noble juice in a lounge chair overlooking a pris- When dawn breaks through the savages and tine aquamarine lagoon. How did this hap- airplane window over Rarotonga’s tropical Eden- pen? And why am I now so happy here volcanic mountains rising spectacularly like paradise as por- that I’ve extended my stay to almost a full out of the surrounding sea — to answer my trayed by Paul Gauguin and week? second question — I sense immediately Jean-Jacques Rousseau. The geographic The answer to the first question — I that I won’t be bored here. It’s my kind of facts on the ground are thus: Located near must admit — is fear. I so dreaded the place: There are no stoplights or fast- the Tropic of Capricorn, the Cook Islands food joints, and no building is taller are on about the same latitude as Austra- than the tallest palm tree. lia’s Northern Territory and Chile’s An- Waiting patiently at the tiny airport tofagasta region. Though less than 100 for the roughly 250 passengers are rows square miles in land area, the tiny islands of friendly taxi drivers sent by the re- are spread out over an area of roughly spective lodgings we have booked. One 700,000 square miles in the South Pacific. driver holds a sign that reads “Wal- Tonga, French Polynesia and American lace,” and I rightly guess that must be Samoa are the some of the nearest neigh- me. The three-mile ride to my Airbnb, a bors. cottage just outside the town of Avarua, The resident population, mostly na- comes to 15 New Zealand dollars ($11 tive Maori, numbers about 9,000. Tour- U.S.). The nightly rate at the Airbnb is ism, with annual visitors numbering over not much more ($50 U.S.). 150,000, drives the economy. The islands Compared with the wailing baby on are a self-governing parliamentary democ- the plane, the crowing roosters and racy but coordinate with New Zealand in clucking hens outside my window are international affairs. The New Zealand dol- like a lullaby as I get some needed lar is the islands’ currency. rest before setting out to explore the It’s easy to find an ATM to withdraw contours of what to me is a genuinely some of that currency, but finding a place Low-hanging clouds and lush vegetation frame Rarotonga’s mountainous newfound land. Not unlike Columbus’ interior; a cross-country trail takes hikers to the needlelike rock rising to eat is another matter. It’s Sunday, and on the horizon known as Te Rua Manga. Photo by Walter Nicklin, For The Cook Islanders, having been converted to Washington Post Christianity by 19th-century missionar- ies, are especially observant. It apparently blended well with traditional faith; one is- lander tells me that the lineage of Maori chiefs can be traced directly to the Bible’s Adam and Eve. When I finally find a cafe that loudly proclaims it indeed is open on Sundays, I learn the meaning of a “Long Black.” I also learn to love it: a double shot of espresso poured over 3 to 5 ounces of hot water. But most especially I get a taste of the islanders’ well-earned reputation for genu- ine friendliness and warm hospitality. Muri Beach File photo The next morning I rent a bicycle

File photo MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 19

According to Maori legend, it is here on Rarotonga’s west shore at Turou (Black Rock) that spirits of the dead commence their voyage to the afterworld. Photo by Walter Nicklin, For The Washington Post

to explore the rest of the is- four coral islets form an idyllic lagoon land. Had I booked a motor for swimmers, snorkelers, kayakers scooter or a car, I would have had to and paddle-boarders. Or you can just get a special license from the local lie on the uncrowded, sandy beach, police. The procedure is cheap and sunbathe, sip a coconut smoothie and easy, everyone tells me, but to off- watch. That’s what I do, harnessing set sedentary air travel I want some my energy for a cross-island hike the good, hard exercise. next day. The very hardest part, however, The trailhead lies not far from my is getting used to riding on the left Airbnb at the end of a country road side of the road, as in New Zealand that cuts through small farms with or Britain. No one yells at me when friendly dogs and grazing goats. I get confused at roundabouts and Wigmores’s Waterfall File photo Armed with mosquito repellent and almost cause a couple of accidents. two bottles of drinking water, I follow Instead of road rage, I’m met with sympa- the 45-minute flight from Rarotonga that the narrow trail through tropical trees and thetic smiles. makes romantic Aitutaki accessible. lush vegetation, junglelike in entangled “Please join us!” But if I weren’t alone, would I have been hues of green. But there’s no worry about A woman’s voice, in the island’s distinct invited to join their party? Traveling solo, I jungle creatures, for the island is home Maori-tinted English accent, calls from be- tell myself, can pierce the married couple to neither snakes nor poisonous spiders. yond the hedgerow. Amid what looks to be “bubble” that often insulates foreign visi- Puffs of low-hanging clouds, which might a garden party, she’s waving and smiling tors from natives. Or other travelers dur- at any moment let loose occasional drops at me as I’m peddling back to my Airbnb. ing my island stay, as I strike up delight- of rain, are visible through the jungle can- How can I say no? She explains she’s host- ful conversations with a retired French opy and glide against the island’s rugged, ing the first course of a progressive dinner, admiral sailing around the world, a Ger- volcano-created mountains. wherein guests move (or progress) from man backpacker as well as a New Zealand The trail crests at the base of a “vol- house to house for successive courses. This sheep farmer vacationing with his wife. canic plug” called the Needle, Mount Te particular dinner has been organized by lo- Still, I miss my wife and — for a wed- Rua Manga, offering a bird’s-eye view of cal tourism authorities. (Her husband is a ding anniversary celebration when we the entire island. Then, following a stream former member of the Cook Islands parlia- rendezvous next week in New Zealand — I called Papua, I head downslope toward ment.) So I join perhaps two dozen others buy her one of the legendary black pearls Wigmore’s Waterfall. Hot and sweaty, I’m in the first course featuring coconut yogurt for which the islands are known. I can hear tempted to jump in the natural pool be- mixed with one’s choice of locally grown her laughter when one evening I order a neath the falling water but will wait to dip Lady Finger bananas, star fruit (carambo- sushi-like dish and don’t realize it. She in the ocean. The four-mile, hot and humid la), dragon fruit (pitaya), pawpaw, papayas loves sushi; I’ve never liked the idea of it. trek has taken me almost four hours. and mangoes. The elaborate menu at a resort restaurant Now on the opposite side of the island The guests, all couples, express sur- on Muri Beach includes tuna, which I just from my Airbnb in Avarua, I wait for a prise (tinged with undisguised concern?) assume is grilled. After a few bites, I real- bus to take me home. The 20-mile coastal that I’m traveling alone. After all, the Cook ize it’s raw — marinated in lemon and co- road circling the island is known as the Ara Islands — especially the Aitutaki atoll — conut juice, then garnished with diced veg- Tapu, and two buses come hourly. But their are a favorite honeymoon destination. etables. Called Ika Mata, it’s a traditional destination is never Avarua — or any oth- Without my wife, there’s no way I’ll take Cook Island dish, and I must er particular place. Rather, their signage confess it isn’t bad. reads either “Clockwise” or “Anti-Clock- The resort is one of wise.” What a wonderful metaphor, I think, many located on Raro- for island — as opposed to linear - time. tonga’s southeast On the subject of time, the evening be- coast at Muri fore I’m scheduled to fly away from the Beach, where Cook Islands, I bike to a place on the island’s west side called Turou (Black Rock) for a final swim in the South Pacific. It is here, according to Maori legend, that spirits of the dead commence their voyage to Avaiki (the afterworld). The sun is The customs office in the port of Avarua on setting as I plunge into the warm Rarotonga, the largest water and rewrite my vision of a of the Cook Islands, tropical island paradise. is suggestive of the small-is-beautiful way of life that welcomes and enchants visitors. Photo by Walter Nicklin, For The Washington Post 20 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020 Jeju Fire Festival HAPPENINGS Taean Tulip Festival OFF BASE

DATE: Mar. 12 – Mar. 15 LOCATION: Saebyeol Oreum DATE: Apr. 14 – May. 11 INTRODUCTION: LOCATION: Korea Flower Park Jeju Fire Festival is held to pray for F INTRODUCTION: good harvest and good health in the new S V L Taean Tulip Festival offers excellent year. Various folk games and hands- INTRODUCTION:E LOCATION:A Areas around the HistoricalS photo opportunities for both local on programs are available, and the When April arrives, Hwagae regionT ISite of Dr. Wangin residents and tourists alike with beautiful natural environment of Jeju looks as if it is carpeted in snow. In fact, INTRODUCTION: beautiful and vibrant tulips in full Island makes the festival even more it is the region’s beautiful white cherry Yeongam Wangin Culture Festival is held bloom. The festival venue is divided enjoyable. blossoms that transform the landscape in early April when the cherry blossoms into sections, which are decorated in TRANSPORTATION: into a soft, downy wonderland. One are in full bloom to commemorate the different themes, allowing visitors to Bus of the most popular attractions of the achievement of Korea’s Dr. Wangin, who enjoy the sight of colorful tulips among - From Jeju International Airport, take festival is the Simri (10-ri) Cherry traveled to Japan over 1,600 years ago creative and fun backdrops. Bus 100 to Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal. Blossom Road. It is also known as the to spread Korean knowledge, culture, TRANSPORTATION: - From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take “marriage road,” as legend says if lovers and arts. The festival takes place at Bus an intercity bus bound for Pyeonghwa- walk down this road while holding Historical Site of Dr. Wangin and - From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take ro Road. hands, they will get married and live Sangdaepo Historic Park. Tourists and an intercity bus to Taean Intercity Bus - Get off at Hwajeon Village . happily forever. Apart from the stunning local residents can enjoy various events Terminal. * Shuttle buses available during the beauty of the cherry blossoms, there is a during the festival period. - From Taean Intercity Bus Terminal, festival period. series of exciting seasonal programs and TRANSPORTATION: take a village bus bound for Gomseom * Transportation inquiries: cultural events for visitors to enjoy. Bus and get off at Morenon Bus Stop. Tourism Policy Division (+82-2-64-728- TRANSPORTATION: From Seoul Central City Terminal, take HOMEPAGE: www.koreaflowerpark.com 2751), Air Traffic Division (+82-2-64- Express/Intercity Bus an intercity bus bound for Mokpo. From (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese) 728-3191), Information Officers (+82-2- From Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal, Mokpo Bus Terminal, take a local bus 64-728-2021) take an intercity bus to Hadong Bus bound for Yeongam and get off at the HOMEPAGE: http://www.jejusi.go.kr/ Terminal. Historical Site of Dr. Wangin Bus Stop. Changnyeong Nakdonggang Yuchae buriburi/main.do (Korean, English, From Hwagae Bus Terminal, cross KTX Festival Japanese, Chinese) Hwagaegyo Bridge and go straight From Yongsan Station, take a train for approx. 100m to arrive at Hwagae bound for Mokpo Station. Market on the right. HOMEPAGE: wangin.kr (Korean only) Gurye Sansuyu Festival HOMEPAGE: www.hadong.go.kr (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese) Jindo Miracle Sea Road Festival Jinhae Gunhangje Festival

DATE: Apr. 16 – Apr. 19 LOCATION:Namji Yuchae Complex & Namji Sports Park INTRODUCTION: DATE: Mar. 14 – Mar. 22 The Nakdonggang Yuchae Festival takes LOCATION: Jirisan Hot Springs Tourist Site place at Namji Yuchae Complex, the INTRODUCTION: DATE: Apr. 8 – Apr. 11 single largest field of canola flowers in Gurye Sansuyu Festival is an annual LOCATION: Hoedong-ri, Gogun-myeon, Korea. The flowers and the sparkling spring flower festival that takes place in DATE: Mar. 27 – Apr. 6 Jindo-gun Nakdonggang River make wonderful the Jirisan Mountain hot springs area. LOCATION: Jinhae Jungwon Rotary INTRODUCTION: backdrops for photos. The fields are also Major programs include exhibition Intersection and areas of Jinhae Once a year at Jindo Island in alive with butterflies and honeybees of local products made from sansuyu INTRODUCTION: Jeollanam-do, the sea mysteriously parts flying from blossom to blossom. (cornus fruit), while other programs Jinhae Gunhangje Festival is held in the and visitors can walk through the sea TRANSPORTATION: include traditional music and dance areas of Jungwon Rotary and downtown from the main island to a smaller nearby Bus performances, experience programs, Jinhae with splendid cherry blossoms. island. This phenomenon is due to the From Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal, and fireworks. Varied programs including a pre-event, buildup of pebbles and sand created take an intercity bus to Changnyeong TRANSPORTATION: cultural performances, a military over time with the tide, creating a Intercity Bus Terminal. Express/Intercity Bus performance, and others will take place 2.8-kilometer-long road measuring 40-60 From Changnyeong Intercity Bus From Seoul Nambu Terminal, take a bus during the festival. meters in width that appears at extreme Terminal, take Nongeochon Bus bound to Gurye Bus Terminal. TRANSPORTATION: low-tide. for Changnyeong-Namji to Namji Bus Local bus Express/Intercity Bus The Jindo Miracle Sea Road Festival Stop. From Gurye Bus Terminal Bus Stop, From Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal, takes place at the same time as this HOMEPAGE: www.cng.go.kr/tour/festival take a Nongeochon Bus bound for take an intercity bus to Hadong Bus phenomenon. Visitors can enjoy walking (Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese) Jungdong and get off at Jeongsan Bus Terminal. along the sea road, gathering abalone Stop. From Hwagae Bus Terminal, cross and various other fun activities that HOMEPAGE: www.gurye.go.kr (Korean, Hwagaegyo Bridge and go straight make up the festival program. The International Horticulture English, Japanese, Chinese) for approx. 100m to arrive at Hwagae spectacular sight of the sea parting is Goyang Korea Market on the right. widely known and about half a million HOMEPAGE: www.hadong.go.kr (Korean, visitors flock from all over the world just Hwagae Market Cherry Blossom English, Japanese, Chinese) to witness this amazing event. Festival TRANSPORTATION: Express/Intercity Bus Yeongam Wangin Culture Festival From Seoul Central City Terminal or Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take a bus to Jindo Bus Terminal. Bus - From Jindo Bus Terminal, take a bus bound for Gagye-Hoedong or Songgun- DATE: Apr. 24 – May. 10 Hoedong and get off at Hoedong Bus LOCATION: Ilsan Lake Park and Wondang Stop. Flower Complex - Walk for approx. 40m along the sea to INTRODUCTION: DATE: Mar. 27 – Mar. 29 reach the festival venue. First held in 1997, International LOCATION: Yeonghoham Hwahap HOMEPAGE: tour.jindo.go.kr (Korean, Horticulture Goyang Korea, an Multipurpose Plaza DATE: Apr. 2 – Apr. 5 English, Japanese, Chinese) international flower exhibition, has MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 21 attracted over 6.2 million visitors so far. of white, yellow, plum and red. The Daegu Yangnyeongsi Herb Mungyeong Traditional Chasabal The event is considered to be Korea’s lake in the middle of the venue will be Medicine Culture Festival Festival representative international flower decorated in the theme of “Byeoljubu” exhibition. The festival takes place (traditional Korean story of the Turtle at Ilsan Lake Park in Goyang from and the Rabbit). There will be rabbit April to May with nearly 300 related village to the left, a tortoise village to organizations, groups, and companies the right, and a character village on from 36 countries showcasing flowers the perimeter of the venue. Hands-on and various products made with flowers. programs such as feeding animals, Also, unique and rare plants exhibition, making cookies, making soap bubbles, indoor garden decorated with flower and making masks and face painting are art pieces, outdoor theme parks, also available. making of flower plant experience, TRANSPORTATION: flower arrangement contests and other Bus DATE: May 1 – May 5 DATE: May 1 – May 10 cultural events and performances are From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal or LOCATION: Multiple locations in LOCATION: Mungyeongsaejae Open Set planned to add more joy to the flower Central City Bus Terminal, take a Yangnyeong-si, Daegu Studio festival. At night, lighting garden, LED intercity bus to Taean Bus Terminal. INTRODUCTION: INTRODUCTION: performance, K-POP performance and From Taean Bus Terminal, take a taxi to A tradition dating back 350 years, the Mungyeong Traditional other exciting events will also entertain the festival venue. Daegu Yangnyeongsi (herb medicine Chasabal Festival takes place at visitors, creating the ambience of a HOMEPAGE: www.ffestival.co.kr (Korean market) was an international market Mungyeongsaejae Open Set Studio in joyful flower culture festival. only) where herbal medicines from China, Gyeongsangbuk-do, an area famous TRANSPORTATION: Russia, Europe, and for traditional ceramics. The festival Subway other regions were first started in 1999 and has gone on to - Jeongbalsan Station (Seoul Subway Yeongju Korea Seonbi sold. The Daegu become an premier festival recognized Line 3), Exit 1 or 2 Culture Festival Yangnyeongsi Herb by the Ministry of Culture, Sports & - Pass through Ilsan Cultural Park Medicine Culture Tourism. Visitors will be able to join in towards Ilsan Lake Park (500 m). Festival displays traditional tea ceremony and pottery- Bus medicinal herbs making programs, operated by local Get off at Lake Park Bus Stop. found in Korea’s artisans. - Bus: 33, 88A mountains and TRANSPORTATION: - Intercity Bus: 3000 offers visitors Express/Intercity Bus - Airport Bus: 7300, 7400 an opportunity From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take HOMEPAGE: www.flower.or.kr (Korean, to experience an intercity bus to Mungyeong Bus English, Japanese, Chinese) a wide range Terminal. of relaxing and curative traditional Bus medicinal procedures. The festival will From Mungyeong Bus Terminal Bus Taean Flower Festival DATE: May 1 – May 4 be a fascinating event for international Stop, take a bus bound for Mungyeong LOCATION: Seonbichon Village & Areas of visitors who are interested in Korea’s Saejae and get off at Mungyeong Saejae Seocheon Stream medicinal herbs and the medical sciences Bus Stop. INTRODUCTION: and traditions of Asia. HOMEPAGE: www.sabal21.com (Korean, The Yeongju Seonbi Culture Festival TRANSPORTATION: English, Chinese, Japanese) takes place from early to mid May Subway every year at the Seonbichon Village Banwoldang Station (Daegu Subway Line and Korean Seonbi Culture Training 1 or 2), Exit 16 or 18. Center in Sunheung-myeon, Yeongju- Jungangno Station (Daegu Subway Line si. Yeongju Seonbi Culture Festival 1), Exit 1. promotes Korea’s moral culture through Bus idealogy of Seonbi. You will be able to - In front of (previous) Jeil Bank: DATE: Apr. 27 – May. 11 restore your personal character with the Bus 349, 401,650 , 518,704,106,202, LOCATION: Taean Nature World knowledge of Seonbi’s basic values. 1410,503,730,706,303 , Express 2 INTRODUCTION: TRANSPORTATION: - In front of Daegu: Bus 349 , 401,650 , Taean Flower Festival is held annually Intercity/Express Bus 518 , 704,106,202,410, 1909,503,730,706 , in the Sinon-ri area in Nam-myeon. - From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take 303-1 , Donggu (East Side) 1-1, Express During the festival, various cultural an intercity bus bound for Yeongju. 2 events and flower markets are held - From Gangnam Express Bus Terminal, - In front of Hyundai Department against the backdrop of beautiful take an express bus bound for Yeonju. Store & Dong-A shopping Mall: Bus flowers. Taean Flower Festival holds a Bus 305,405,840,414,909 , 609, Bukgu (North themed festival for each season: tulips From Yeongju Bus Terminal, take Bus Side) 2 NOTE: Festival dates and info subject to in spring, lilies in summer, lights in 53 bound for Sosuseowon Confucian - In front of Hyundai Department change. winter, and autumn flowers in fall. Academy. Store & Dong-A shopping Mall: Bus COPYRIGHTS ©KOREA TOURISM During the lily festival in summer, the HOMEPAGE: seonbi.yctf.or.kr (Korean 305,405,840,414 , 1609 ORGANIZATION. ALL RIGHTS venue is covered with lilies in shades only) HOMEPAGE: herbfestival.org (Korean only) RESERVED www.visitkorea.or.kr 22 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020

ICs CORN Bohemian; Daegu, Mar. 28, 7 p.m., Rock King; Seoul, COM ER Apr. 4, 7 p.m., Apr. 5, 6 p.m., KT&G SangsangMadang Concerts Live Hall, 66,000 won. Jannabi Busan, Mar. 14 & 15, 5 p.m., BEXCO Auditorium; Music Festivals Chuncheon, Mar. 21, 5 p.m., Baeckryung Art Center in Chuncheon, Kangwon-Do, 110,000-121,000- Have A Nice Day #8 132,000 won. Seoul, Apr. 11, Nanji Han River Park, 77,000 won. For more information, visit https://www.facebook.com/ haveaniceday.official/ Lim Heon-il Seoul, Mar. 20 & 27, 8 p.m., Mar. 21, 22, 28 & 29, 6 The 14th Seoul Jazz Festival 2020 p.m., Bear Hall, 77,000 won. Seoul, May 23 & 24, Olympic Park, 255,000 won (2- day Pass), For more information, visit https://www. Baek Ji Young facebook.com/seouljazzfestival/ Seoul, Mar. 21, 3 & 7 p.m., Olympic Park Olympic Hall, 88,000-99,000-121,000-143,000 won. Cosmoshippie x Wussami Regular Concerts Seoul, Mar. 21, 7 p.m., Yeonhee Art Theater, 45,000 won. c Mar h Mika Seoul, Mar. 5, 8 p.m., Jamsil Arena, Green Day 110,000-121,000-132,000 won. Seoul, Mar. 22, 6 p.m., Jamsil Arena, 88,000-99,000- 3 110,000 won. Soran April Seoul, Mar. 6, 13 & 20, 8 p.m., Mar. Khalid 7, 14 & 21, 6 p.m., Mar. 8, 15 & 22, 5 p.m., Seongsu Art Seoul, Apr. 9, 8 p.m., Olympic Park Hall, 77,000 won. 4 Olympic Hall, 110,000 won. Sechskies Shin Seung Hoon Seoul, Mar. 6, 8 p.m., Mar. 7 & 8, 5 p.m., Kyung-Hee Seoul, Apr. 11, 7 p.m., Apr. 12, 4 p.m., Sejong Center University Grand Peace Palace, 99,000-121,000- for the Performing Arts, 77,000-88,000-110,000- 143,000 won. 132,000-154,000 won.

Thornapple Alan Walker Daejeon, Mar. 7, 7 p.m., Inter Play; Busan, Mar. Seoul, Apr. 16, 8 p.m., Olympic Park Olympic Hall, 14, 7 p.m., Dreamhall; Gwangju, Mar. 21, 7 p.m., 110,000-132,000 won.

For more information, visit Interpark’s website: http://www.globalinterpark.com/main/categoryList?dispNo=01003&prdTp=002

Stripes Korea is A Stars and Stripes Community Publication. or the U.S. Pacific Command. As a DOD newspaper, Stripes those products by the Department of Defense or Stars and This newspaper is authorized for publication by the Department Korea may be distributed through official channels and use Stripes. Products or services advertised in this publication of Defense for members of the military services overseas. appropriated funds for distribution to remote and isolated shall be made available for purchase, use, or patronage However, the contents of Stripes Korea are unofficial, and are locations where overseas DOD personnel are located. without regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, not to be considered as the official views of, or endorsed by, The appearance of advertising in this publication, including age, marital status, physical handicap, political affiliation, or the U.S. government, including the Department of Defense inserts or supplements, does not constitute endorsement of any other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES KOREA 23

Known for being one of the rare two-sport professional athletes, there wasn’t much Bo Jackson couldn’t do. Whether it was running away from defenders, snagging flyballs or just being a fan favorite, Bo did it all. In the 1986 NFL draft, Bo was selected first overall by a team he refused to play for. He held true to his words and was later taken by the Raiders in 1987. Which team selected Bo first overall in 1986?

Stripes Sports TriviaBuccaneers Bay Tampa

Answer Biweekly Crossword - Week of 3/2/20

Crossword by Margie E. Burke ACROSS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

1 Gave the slip 14 15 16 5 Pants style 10 Battery contents 17 18 19 14 Gawk at 20 21 22 15 Woody or Gracie 16 Bygone bird 23 24 25 17 Change of 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 heart? DID YOU 19 Burr-Hamilton 34 35 36 37 38 event 39 40 41 42 KNOW? 20 Floral leaf 21 Like a stop sign 43 44 45 46 23 Hindu social uneung (College Scholastic class 47 48 49 50 51 Ability Test or CSAT) is a 25 One of ten in 52 53 54 55 standardized test accepted FDR's coin 26 Ghostly figure 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 Sby the South Korea University. 29 Take the bait 63 64 65 Most Koreans normally give 31 Compass rice cake or taffy gifts to test- direction 66 67 68 34 Angelic feature taker during the Suneung exam 69 70 71 season. 35 Fairy tale's second word Copyright 2020 by The Puzzle Syndicate 37 Travolta walk 39 Switch on 2 Folklore monster 40 Mythical strong- 56 To the ___ (fully) 41 Fastest feline 3 Insult response man 57 Exotic berry 43 Part of LCD, in 4 Persistent 42 Male protagonist 58 Not taken in by math 5 Spending limit 45 French song 60 Out for the night 44 Liniment target 6 Divvy up 49 Matisse, for one 61 Coal refuse 46 "Get a ___ on!" 7 Sugar pill, say 51 Start to freeze? 62 "Take one!" 47 Miss the mark 8 Monopoly pay- 53 Respected one 65 Golf ball support 48 Plaster base ment 55 Live's partner Hangul of 50 Snoop Dogg, 9 Still in one piece 약속 e.g. 10 Extra charge the week 52 Still-life fruit 11 Kitchen surface Answers to Previous Crossword: yaksok (appointment) 54 Companionless 12 Creative spark 56 Winter pelter 13 Chatty Cathy, L A S T A R I A S A C K S 59 Desktop icon e.g. O U C H R O M P A L O N E 63 Like some 18 Trellis piece O D O R C O P E V A L O R Language Lesson coffees or teas 22 Migratory birds T I R E S O M E P I R A T E 64 Impossible to fill 24 Put a lid on S T E A L S L A L O M 66 Fancy trim 26 Humpback, e.g. D O L E B A R I S T A 67 Squirrel away 27 Marathon entrant I R K B E R G E N N E A R Do you want to take a shower? 68 Salty drop 28 Paneled art in a B A A S O V E R T G E R M 69 Seating section church I S L E T I E R E D P A S 70 Metric heavy 30 Progress slowly S H E L L A C A R E A Biweekly Sudoku - Week of 3/2/20 weight 32 Slick F O R E S T B R E A D 71 Drop-off spot 33 It'll knock you out H O R R I D W I S T E R I A Sya-wo ha-sil-lae-yo? 36 Kind of moss A B O U T B I O L T R O T DOWN 38 Geographical T I T L E A N N A H O L E 1 Quite a few zone E T H E R T E S T A R I D

SUDOKU Edited by Margie E. Burke Difficulty: Easy HOW TO SOLVE: 7 1 9 4 Each row must contain the numbers 1 to 9; each column must contain the numbers 1 to 9; and 2 5 1 3 each set of 3 by 3 boxes must 2 contain the numbers 1 to 9. 3 8 7 9 Answers to Previous Sudoku: 2 3 6 4 1 5 7 9 8 4 1 7 5 4 9 8 6 7 3 2 1 1 7 8 2 9 3 6 5 4 2 1 9 6 5 1 7 2 4 8 3 4 3 2 7 9 4 8 1 6 5 8 1 4 3 5 6 2 7 9 8 2 9 6 9 3 5 2 4 8 1 7 6 3 4 5 2 7 8 1 9 3 6 Copyright 2020 by The Puzzle Syndicate 7 8 1 6 3 9 5 4 2

24 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION MARCH 5 – MARCH 18, 2020