AN ECO FRIENDLY DYEING OF COTTON FABRIC USING HENNA EXTRACT

1OMER KAMAL ALEBEID, 2TAO ZHAO

1,2College of Chemistry, Chemical Engineering and Biotechnology 2Key Lab of Science and Technology of Eco-Textiles, Donghua University, Ministry of Education, Shanghai, 201620, China 1Industrial Research and Consultancy Center, Ministry of Industry, Khartoum, 11111, Sudan E-mail: [email protected]

Abstract- A new approach for dyeing of cotton fabric using Henna extract was investigated. In this study, 3-chloro-2- hydroxy propyl trimethylammonium chloride was used to substitute metallic mordants (heavy-metal salts) in pre-treatment of cotton fabric. This will eventually prevent heavy metal pollution as well as will facilitate dyeing without addition of salt. Cationized cotton fabrics were dyed with Henna extract at different dyeing temperatures for different dyeing times. Color strength, fastness properties (washing, rubbing and light), were investigated. The fastness properties results of all samples dyed with Henna extract were satisfy. Enhancement or decrement in the color strength was found to be governed by the dyeing temperature and dyeing time.

Keywords- Eco-friendly dyeing, Henna extract, Cationization

I. INTRODUCTION In application of Henna onto cellulosic textiles, fastness properties such as wash, light, perspiration, Recently, synthetic dyes have been widely used due etc. are often very low. This may be due to the polar to their lower prices and wide range of bright shades features of both cellulose and Lawson (hydroxyl with considerably improved color fastness properties groups are the active specious), in addition to as compared to natural dyes. Almost all the synthetic heterogeneity, diversity and complexity of natural dyes being synthesized from petrochemical sources matters. Therefore, to surpass this drawback, through hazardous chemical processes pose threat additional treatments are often needed to enhance the towards the environment and human body health [1, durability value of textile products [4]. 2]. Hence, interest in natural dyes has increased considerably on account of their high compatibility Many attempts have been carried out to elucidate the with environment, as well as availability of various functional aspects of Henna dye as well as to enhance natural coloring resources as from plants, insects, its fastness properties, especially washing and light minerals and fungi [3, 4]. It is reported that some fastness, by using several metallic mordants [7-10] natural dyes can not only dye fabrics in unique and Cationization is a novel treatment on cotton fabric elegant colors but also impart antibacterial and which has been used to enhance the color strength ultraviolet protective functions [5, 6]. and fastness properties of dyeing. Cationic product 3- Lawsoniainermis L., commonly known as “Henna” is chloro-2-hydroxy propyl trimethylammonium a shrub or small tree frequently cultivated in India, chloride (CHPTMAC) is a relatively cheap, reactive Pakistan, Iran, Afghanistan, Yemen, Egypt and and low toxic chemical which is potentially a good Sudan. Powdered leaves of this plant are used as a cationic agent for the required modification [11]. cosmetic for staining hands and hairs. The dyeing Pretreatment of cotton fabric with cationic agents property as well as the UV absorption is attributed to instead of metallic mordants can be a novel technique the presence of Lawson; 2-hydroxy-1,4- for upgrading the natural dyeing properties and naphthaquinone in Henna leaves [7]. This coloring minimizing the pollution. component has following structural formula; Accordingly, the main objective of the present work is, to investigate the dyeing behavior of cationized cotton fabrics with Henna extract in the absence of a salt.

II. DETAILS EXPERIMENTAL

2.1. Materials and chemicals Scoured and bleached plain-weave cotton fabric of 117 gm-2 was obtained from Hua Fang Co. Ltd., China. 3-chloro-2-hydroxy propyl trimethylammonium chloride was supplied by Aladdin Industrial Corporation, Shanghai. Henna

Proceedings of 31st The IRES International Conference, Shanghai, China, 5th March 2016, ISBN: 978-93-85973-52-9 19 An Eco Friendly Dyeing of Cotton Fabric Using Henna Extract powder was supplied by Tag Cosmetics Ltd. 2.4. Dyeing procedure Omdurman-Sudan. All chemicals were used as Cationized cotton fabrics were dyed with Henna dye received without further purification. Deionized water solution without addition of salt using an exhaustion was used throughout the study. method in a model gy-12/HTAI-Hua Tai-China dyeing machine. Samples were immersed in a dye 2.2. Extraction of Henna dye bath composed of Henna extract (1%) and sodium Certain amount of henna powder was extracted in carbonate (15g/l), using dye liquor ratio (1:20). All required amount of water and boiled for 1h. The the dyeing experiments were carried out at extract was cooled to room temperature and filtered temperatures of 40℃, 60℃, 80℃ and 90℃ for 40 to remove the insoluble residues; the resulting filtrate min, 60 min and 80 min respectively. Thereafter, was then used as stock dye solutions (1% extract) for cotton fabrics were removed from the dye-bath and the subsequent dyeing experiments. rinsed thoroughly in tap water followed by soaping (soap flakes 2 g/L, Na2CO3 10 g/L, liquor ratio 1:30, 2.3. Cationization of cotton fabric 95℃, for 10 min). Afterward, the samples were Cotton fabric was cationized based on pad-batch washed and dried. method. 50 g of 3-chloro-2-hydroxy propyl trimethylammonium chloride (CHPTMAC) was III. RESULT AND DISCUSSION dissolved in 200 ml deionized water. 22.8g of sodium hydroxide was then added to form 2,3- 3.1.Interaction of cationic reagent with cotton epoxypropyltrimethylammomiumchloride (EP3MAC) fabric solution. After which the fabric was impregnated with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammomium chloride EP3MAC solution at 50℃ for 20 min and then was (EP3MAC) was prepared in situ by reaction of 3- padded at a speed of 1 m/min and pressure of 1 chloro-2-hydroxy propyl trimethylammonium kg/cm2. The padded fabric was wrapped in a plastic chloride (CHPTMAC) with alkali (Figure 1.). film for 24 h at room temperature to prevent the EP3MAC reacts with the hydroxyl groups of migration of chemicals on the fabric and evaporation cellulose creating cationic charges on the surface of of water. After that, the fabric was rinsed twice with cotton fabric [10]. As a result, cotton will have distilled water and neutralized with acetic acid cationic dye sites covalently bound to the polymer solution (2 g/L). Finally, the treated fabric was rinsed chain. The carboxyl group in Lawson which is to obtain a pH of 7.2 on the fabric and then dried in a negatively charged reacts with the cationic dye sites commercial dryer at 60℃ [11]. in the cotton fabric, enabling dyeing without addition of electrolyte which is normally needed to drive the dyes from the water onto the cotton fiber.

Fig.1. Reactions occurred during the cationization process of cotton fabric

3.2. X-ray diffraction analysis by grafting of the cationic agent. The substitution of X-ray diffraction has been extensively used for hydroxyl group reduces the density of hydrogen band. investigation the supramolecular order (crystallinty) of cellulose and its derivatives. XRD patterns of normal and cationized cotton are shown in Figure 2 (a), (b). It can be seen that the normal cotton has main diffraction signals at 2θ = 14.9° , 16.55°, 22.8° and 34.05° [11]. These characteristic peaks also appear in the XRD patterns of cationized cotton which reveals that the cationization reaction does not change the main crystalline form of cotton fabrics. Meanwhile, in comparison with normal cotton, the peaks intensity of the cationized cotton declined due to abundant – OH group in the texture of cotton being substituted Fig. 2. XRD pattern of (a); normal and (b); cationized cotton

Proceedings of 31st The IRES International Conference, Shanghai, China, 5th March 2016, ISBN: 978-93-85973-52-9 20 An Eco Friendly Dyeing of Cotton Fabric Using Henna Extract 3.3. Color strength (K/S Value) The obtained results (Fig.3), disclose that, with increasing the dyeing temperature from 40℃ to 90℃, the K/S values are enhanced which reflects the positive impact of higher temperature on improving the swellability of cotton fabrics as well as solubility of the Henna dye, thereby opening the cellulose structure, increasing the extent of penetration and diffusion of Henna dye molecules. Effect of the dyeing time on color strength is also shown in Figure 3. With increase of the dyeing time, more color strength is observed. The less strength Fig.3. Effect of the dyeing temperatures and dyeing time on the might be due to incomplete dyeing when insoluble K/S values of the dyed fabrics impurities compete with the colorant to absorb onto cotton fabric rather than colorant. As the time of 3.4. Fastness properties dyeing increase from 40min to 80min more and more As shown in Table 1 all Henna dyed fabrics have color strength has been obtained. This might be very good washing fastness regardless of the dyeing because of the fact that the colorant significantly gets temperature and dyeing time. Change of shade and adsorbed and then absorbed [8]. staining of adjacent fabrics (wool and cotton) were found to be good (3-4) to very good rating (4-5), respectively. Dry rub fastness of all Henna dyed fabrics was good (4). Wet rub fatness values also found to be fairly good to good rating of (3-4).

Table 1. Fastness properties of the dyed fabrics

This result indicates that the presence of cationic cationization provided more dye sites and bears high groups in the molecular structure of cellulose color depth. These can be explained on the basis that enhances swellability of the fiber (increases pore natural dyes contain ionizable groups (auxochromes) size) thereby encouraging the diffusion of dye such as –OH. In aqueous solution at appropriate pH, particles inside the fiber pores, thus, increasing the values, ionizable groups became soluble due to their light fastness values [12]. conversion in anionic form which can easily react It is observed that, the fastness properties of Henna with the cationic dye sites in cotton fabric. Therefore, dyed samples are quite satisfactory for practical improve the washing fastness property of the dyed textile dyeing purposes. The results indicate that fabrics.

Proceedings of 31st The IRES International Conference, Shanghai, China, 5th March 2016, ISBN: 978-93-85973-52-9 21 An Eco Friendly Dyeing of Cotton Fabric Using Henna Extract CONCLUSION multifunctional plant extracts.Dyes and Pigments 2014;105: 89-96. [4] Lichtfouse E., Schwarzbauer J. and Robert D. Green Eco-friendly natural dyeing was achieved by Materials for Energy, Products and Depollution. cationization of cotton fabric using 3-chloro-2- Springer.2013, P.230-281. hydroxy propyl trimethylammonium chloride [5] Mongkholrattanasit R., Kryštůfek J., Wiener J. and Viková followed by dyeing with Henna extract using very M. UV protection properties of silk fabric dyed with eucalyptus leaf extract. The Journal of The Textile Institute simple dyeing without the need of salt additions or 2011;102: 272-279. mordants, which might generate acidic media which [6] Mongkholrattanasit R., Kryštůfek J., Wiener J. and Viková is harmful to cellulose and environment. M. Dyeing, fastness, and UV protection properties of silk Dyeing of cationized fabric with Henna extract and wool fabrics dyed with eucalyptus leaf extract by the exhaustion process.Fibers Text East Eur 2011; 19: 94-99. resulted in the ionic interaction and covalent linkages [7] Rehman F., Shahid A., Summia Q., Ijaz B.A., Muhammad between cationized cotton fabric and Henna dye S. and Mohammad Z. Dyeing behaviour of gamma (Lawson), therefore, improve the dyeing as well as irradiated cotton fabric using Lawson dye extracted from the fastness properties of the dyed fabrics. According henna leaves (Lawsonia inermis).Radiation Physics and Chemistry 2012; 81: 1752-1756. to the findings of this work, best dyeing conditions [8] Ali S., Hussain T. and Nawaz R. Optimization of alkaline for considerably good color strength without affecting extraction of natural dye from Henna leaves and its dyeing color fastness properties are (temperature; 90 0C and on cotton by exhaust method.Journal of Cleaner time; 60 min. Improvement or decrement in the color Production 2009;17: 61-66. [9] Iqbal J., Bhatti I.A. and Adeel S. Effect of UV radiation on strength is governed by the dyeing temperature and dyeing of cotton fabric with extracts of henna dyeing time. leaves.Indian J Fibre Text Res 2008;33: 157-162. [10] Montazer M.M., R. M. A. and Rahimi A. Salt free reactive REFERENCES dyeing of cationized cotton.Fibers and Polymers 2007;8: 608-612.

[11] Cunha A.G., Freire C.S.R., Silvestre A.J.D, Neto C.P., [1] E. Lichtfouse, J. Schwarzbauer, and D. Robert, Green Gandini A., Orblin E. and Fardim P. Characterization and Materials for Energy, Products and Depollution. Springer., evaluation of the hydrolytic stability of trifluoroacetylated 229 (2013). cellulose fibers. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science [2] A.K.Samanta, and A. Konar, Dyeing of textiles with 2007;316: 360-366 natural dyes.Natural Dyes., 3,29 (2011). [12] Micheal M.N., Tera F.M. and Ibrahim S.F. Effect of [3] Grifoni D., Bacci L., Lonardo S.D., Pinelli P., Scardigli chemical modification of cotton fabrics on dyeing A., Camilli F.,. Sabatini F, Zipoli G. and Romani A. UV properties.Journal of Applied Polymer Science 2002; protective properties of cotton and flax fabrics dyed with 85:1897-1903.



Proceedings of 31st The IRES International Conference, Shanghai, China, 5th March 2016, ISBN: 978-93-85973-52-9 22