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Plant-Derived Colorants for Food, Cosmetic and Textile Industries: a Review

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Plant-Derived Colorants for Food, Cosmetic and Textile Industries: a Review materials Review Plant-Derived Colorants for Food, Cosmetic and Textile Industries: A Review Patrycja Brudzy ´nska 1,*, Alina Sionkowska 1 and Michel Grisel 2 1 Department of Biomaterials and Cosmetics Chemistry, Faculty of Chemistry, Nicolaus Copernicus University in Torun, Gagarin 7 Street, 87-100 Torun, Poland; [email protected] 2 Chemistry Department, UNILEHAVRE, FR 3038 CNRS, URCOM EA3221, Normandie University, 76600 Le Havre, France; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Abstract: This review provides a report on properties and recent research advances in the application of plant-derived colorants in food, cosmetics and textile materials. The following colorants are reviewed: Polyphenols (anthocyanins, flavonol-quercetin and curcumin), isoprenoids (iridoids, carotenoids and quinones), N-heterocyclic compounds (betalains and indigoids), melanins and tetrapyrroles with potential application in industry. Future aspects regarding applications of plant- derived colorants in the coloration of various materials are also discussed. Keywords: plant-derived colorants; anthocyanins; isoprenoids; betalains; cosmetic; textile; food col- oration 1. Introduction Citation: Brudzy´nska,P.; There is currently a revival in the application of natural ingredients that can be Sionkowska, A.; Grisel, M. observed in different areas of human lives. This revival concerns not only phytotherapy, Plant-Derived Colorants for Food, but also the need to create various products based on natural raw materials, including Cosmetic and Textile Industries: A plant-derived ingredients. All industries are becoming more ecological, less harmful to Review. Materials 2021, 14, 3484. the environment and healthier for consumers. One example of the extensive utilization of https://doi.org/10.3390/ma14133484 natural raw materials currently observed is the broad use of many herbs, vegetable oils or essential oils in different products. There is also a group of very important compounds—the Academic Editor: Ivo Grabchev colorants that are indispensable in various applications. Colorants provide the desired color and thus make it possible to obtain satisfying products for consumers in a wide Received: 31 May 2021 variety of domains, such as the textile, food or cosmetic industries. Nowadays, most of Accepted: 19 June 2021 the production of all colorants is consumed by the textile industry, but they are also used Published: 23 June 2021 in other industries like paper, leather, printing, plastics and as indicators in chemistry, as shown in Figure1. Publisher’s Note: MDPI stays neutral The entire market for colorants is highly specialized and can be perceived as closed, with regard to jurisdictional claims in but what drives the market is the consumer’s desire to use natural rather than synthetic published maps and institutional affil- colorants. Therefore, the global market of natural colorants is growing faster than the entire iations. color market. This trend is caused by their use in the food industry [1]. Plant-derived colorants are successfully used in food; on a larger scale they can have the potential to be more frequently used in cosmetics or textiles. Nowadays, in the textile industry plant- derived colorants are rather used only in craft dyeing. In cosmetic applications, from the Copyright: © 2021 by the authors. list of 153 compounds included on the EU-positive list of dyes and pigments [2], approxi- Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. mately 8% are plant extracts, 20% are inorganic pigments and 72% are synthetic dyes and This article is an open access article pigments—thus the majority is still made up by synthetic or mineral ones. Nowadays, distributed under the terms and plant-derived dyes that can be used in cosmetics, according to applicable regulations, conditions of the Creative Commons include, among others, β-carotene, canthaxanthin, annatto, lycopene, curcumin, vegetable Attribution (CC BY) license (https:// carbon, riboflavin, caramel, pepper extract, capsanthin, capsorubin, beetroot red and a va- creativecommons.org/licenses/by/ riety of anthocyanins (cyanidin, peonidin, malvidin, delphinidin, petunidin, pelargonidin). 4.0/). Materials 2021, 14, 3484. https://doi.org/10.3390/ma14133484 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/materials Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEW 2 of 18 Materials 2021, 14, 3484 variety of anthocyanins (cyanidin, peonidin, malvidin, delphinidin, petunidin, pelargo-2 of 18 nidin). Figure 1. The exemplary industrial application of colorants. Besides the fact that plant-derived colorantscolorants are biodegradablebiodegradable andand compatiblecompatible withwith the environment, they are alsoalso lessless allergenicallergenic andand lessless toxictoxic thanthan syntheticsynthetic ones.ones. DueDue toto harmful effects,effects, somesome of of the the latter latter were were banned banned in in different different countries. countries. Apart Apart from from their their dy- ingdying ability, ability, plant-derived plant-derived colorants colorants can can also also be relevant be relevant for their for their additional additional properties, properties, such assuch their as antioxidanttheir antioxidant and antimicrobial and antimicrobial activity, activity, among among others, others, which canwhich be anothercan be another strong benefitstrong benefit for their for application their application in the cosmetic, in the co textilesmetic, and textile food and industry food industry [3]. Plan-derived [3]. Plan- colorantsderived colorants belong tobelong different to different chemical chemical groups groups like carotenoids, like carotenoids, polyphenols, polyphenols, quinones qui- ornones alkaloids. or alkaloids. Due toDue their to their chemical chemical structure, structure, they they are unstableare unstable under under the the influence influence of highof high temperature, temperature, light light and and different different pH pH values. values. This This leads leads to to researchresearch andand innovationinnovation intending to improve thethe stability ofof colorants obtained from plants. To provide aa solution to increase colorants, stability technologies such as nanotechnology and encapsulation to increase colorants, stability technologies such as nanotechnology and encapsulation bring significant improvements [1]. Nevertheless, the instability of plant-derived colorants bring significant improvements [1]. Nevertheless, the instability of plant-derived color- when applied in products is not the only problem. It is important to be aware of different ants when applied in products is not the only problem. It is important to be aware of parameters that have an impact on color, for instance the interaction of components: In the different parameters that have an impact on color, for instance the interaction of compo- case of cosmetics and food, the impact of packaging and shelf-life requirements. Other nents: In the case of cosmetics and food, the impact of packaging and shelf-life require- issues concern their presentation in a product—as a liquid, powder, paste or dispersion [4]. ments. Other issues concern their presentation in a product—as a liquid, powder, paste or Additionally, color from plant sources may also depend on climate conditions, which dispersion [4]. Additionally, color from plant sources may also depend on climate condi- may lead to difficulties in maintaining consistent quality [5]. Finally, botanical colorants tions, which may lead to difficulties in maintaining consistent quality [5]. Finally, botani- are more expensive than synthetic ones, with a cost that can be two to ten times higher cal colorants are more expensive than synthetic ones, with a cost that can be two to ten compared to synthetic colorants [6]. To lower the production costs of natural colorants, times higher compared to synthetic colorants [6]. To lower the production costs of natural agro-food byproducts could be applied, which contributes to a reduction in wastes. Even thoughcolorants, this agro-food would be byproducts an ecological could approach, be applied, modern which usage contributes of byproducts to a isreduction limited byin regulationswastes. Even [7 though]. It is necessary this would to improvebe an ecolog theical price-to-performance approach, modern ratio, usage this of beingbyproducts indis- pensableis limited toby increase regulations their [7]. industry It is necessary application to improve [1]. It is the generally price-to-performance easier to obtain ratio, diverse this colorsbeing indispensable with synthetic to colorants increase thantheir withindustry plant-derived application ones [1]. It unless is generally different easier groups to ob- of colorantstain diverse are colors mixed. with Another synthetic point colorants is that manufacturingthan with plant-derived synthetic ones colorants unless requires different a large number of different compounds, as well as several stages and reactions. Furthermore, the history of the application of plant-derived dyes prevails in their favor. Historically, those colorants were almost the only coloring agents that society used for the textile, leather, Materials 2021, 14, x FOR PEER REVIEW 3 of 18 groups of colorants are mixed. Another point is that manufacturing synthetic colorants Materials 2021, 14, 3484requires a large number of different compounds, as well as several stages and reactions. 3 of 18 Furthermore, the history of the application of plant-derived dyes prevails in their favor. Historically, those colorants were almost the only coloring
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