THE STORY of GLAMORGAN Great Deal of T He R Emainder Is Al Ways Laid Down In

Home , Bracelet Bay, Craig y Llyn, Ifor Davies, Llanilid, Llyn Fawr, Loughor Castle

T H E S T O R Y O F

G L A M O R G A N

EVA N S J. C .

T r o f u s e l y 3 l l u s t t a t c b

1 9 0 8

MP NY L M TED THE EDU C ATIONAL PUBLISHING C O A , I I C RD FF TRADE STREET . A I .

PREFA C E.

“ THE STORY o r GLAMORGAN is a modiﬁed f orm o f a

z at t he Ro al Nat a Eisteddf o d o f Wa e pri e essay y ion l l s,

“ 1 90 5 It has b ee t e-w te and ut in a M u tain . o n Ash , n rit n, p

r scho o ls and the e e a ublic more readab le f orm f o g n r l p . — The b o ok deals with the county in districts chieﬂy districts — l y ing within t he several river b asins wit h f ur th er chapt ers

and t ca f act Al l dealing wit h general geograp hical his ori l s . the more important towns and industrial centres have special

de t e em chapt ers vo d t o t h .

‘ The b e t b o n G am a a e b ee c t e s ooks l org n h v n onsul d, and every care has b een t aken to ensure accuracy b ot h in t he inf ormat ion given and t he maps and plans t hat illustrat e the t x t The w t e e e des e t o ac w e e eat e . ri r h r ir s kno l dg his gr indeb t edness t o the works o f previous writ ers o n the subj ect .

Thanks ar e also due f o r photographs l ent by t he

G eat We t and Ba a wa m e M r s ern rry R il y Co pani s ; essrs.

H W a d ff e ff J. St a F e E W . a . ills, C r i ; orri , C rdi ; r d v ns,

a F D Ma c and D L w W . . e e e J e l ngyn yd ; insl y , n h st r ; . on s, mme Cy r .

The Pub lishers b eg t o announce that t hey have in the Press t hree b ookl et s which will f orm valuab l e aids t o t m v z e i . : his volu ,

1 A t a f am . S G o G a e P ace Name hor loss ry l org nshir l s . m 2 . S t B a e o f G a a e W t e hor iogr phi s l org nshir or hi s .

c e m 3. S J in G a a hool ourn ys l org n.

8 8 0 0 8 4 PR EFACE

The design on the cover will b e new to most o f our

and f or it e are eb e T m E s ea e w t T a . t o . H . r d rs, ind d ho s, q ,

th He a B a o f I a e t at e r ld rd Wales . t is d sign h t he e e o f G am a u b e u o f as it f m e p opl l org n sho ld pro d , or d the Blazon o f the Men o f Glamorgan at the f amous Bat t l e o f A c t w e e We me m c t wa w gin our , h r lsh n did u h o rds inning

the ct t t e o t but tt e o f the a e . vi ory , hough h y g li l pr is

D a t we e in em ef e t o the B az t he r y on , ho v r, his po , r rs l on in f ollowing words

“ G am a men a ca t e eat and l org n , s l gr high , F m Wt h o ut o f the b at t eme t ab e ro , l n s ov h k ” A ﬂame shot up itself int o t e s y .

e e t f mat has o f ece t Though much int r s ing in or ion , n ssi y ,

tt e f m t b it e t at e has b een omi d ro his ook, is hop d h nough b een wr itt en t o arouse in the sons and daught ers o f

m a f o r w m it t e ed a es e f o r a f t e Gla org n, ho is in nd , d ir ur h r

at e c u t a c u t w c and deeper knowl edge o f t heir n iv o n y, o n y hi h nd is second t o none in t he p ossession o f an honourabl e a

- s a t a e u e e t and it t o b e b lood t irring p s , prosp ro s pr s n , , is

e a f t e . hop d, glorious u ur

D H OOL S COU RT ROA SC ,

ARD IFF C , 1 9 0 8 u ust . A g , C O NTENTS.

PAGE

The t It s Name P s t and Ex te t 1 Coun y , o i ion , n The Surf ace o f the County 4

T h —I a ff t o Swa ea 7 A rip along t e Coast . C rdi ns

I I Gro wer 1 8 . Around Climat e 27 “ The L adie o f all Countries 30 A griculture 32 The Basin o f the Rhymney 36 Caerphilly Cast l e 40

The Ba o f the Tal —I The Taﬁf Val e 45 sin i . l y

II Va e o f the 54 . ll y Cynon III The R a . hondd Valleys 61 The Basin o f the Ely 71 The River E wenny 78 The B asin o f t he n r or Ogmore 82 The Basin o f the A f an 9 1 The Vale o f Neat h 98 The Basin o f the Tawe 1 0 4 The Basin o f the L lwchwr 1 1 1

The a e o f am 1 1 1 . V l Gl organ 5 21 II . 1 I 2 I I . 1 8

B et ween the n r and t he Af an 1 37

I Gr we 1 46 . o r II 1 . 1 5 III 1 6 . 5

The Ro cks o f Glamorgan 1 60 Industries 1 64 Means of Communication 1 68 viii . CON T EN TS

P at L an a e and E ucat opul ion, gu g , d ion Th ’ I . e City o f Cardiﬁ II .

I The H t o f a ff . is ory C rdi II .

C ardiff C ast le The Port o f C ardiff L landaff The Merthyr Dist rict Neat h and Brit on Perr y

The B u o f ea I . oro gh Swans I I ‘ n n The Hist ory o f Swansea Swansea Docks

I A t t e o f t he t . n iqui i s Coun y II . n n The Early Inhabit ants o f Glamorgan The Roman Conquest o f Siluria Roman Remains in Glamorgan The Introduction o f Christianity Glamorgan under t he Welsh Princes The Norman Conquest o f Glamorgan Gl amorgan in t he Twelf th C entury Gl amorgan under the De Clares ’ L lewelyn Bren s Reb ellion From Hugh le D espenser to the Tudor Period ’ Owen Glyndwr s Reb ellion The Tudor Period The Stuart Period Conclusion ILLUSTRATIONS A ND MAPS

wrt - r-A la D a P w l y , in s o is

E t a ce t o t he W e t B t e D c a ff n r n s u o k, C rdi

The P e Pe a t i r , n r h

The L a F mat ea L a t w t Ma i s or ion, n r l n i jor One o f t he Caves at Llant Nit Maior

Peb b e Beac Ba l h , rry A Stormy D ay at Por th cawl

Swa ea 1 779 ns , Present Day Swaasea ’ W m Hea w Nat u a A c or s d , sho ing r l r h

We b e a t e G w e o l y C s l , o r ’ Ma o f t he B a o f t he R m e Taﬁ and p sins hy n y , , Caerphilly Castl e (resto re d)

ae a t e 1 90 8 C rphilly C s l , Pontypridd Bridge

A b e Cilf n dd l ion Colli ry , y y C ast ell Coch

The Ga t Crei iau r h , g Ab erdare A b erdare Park

D ﬁ r n M u t a A sh y y , o n in Mount ain A sh

a L l L F aw Cr ig y yn , lyn r View near the source o f th e Rhondda A View o n t he E ly

m ec at St N c a Cro l h . i hol s Map o f the River Basins o f Mid- Glamorgan Ewenny Priory Ogmore Cast le

T w Ha Mae t e o n ll , s g Cef n Ydf a Ruins & . I L LU STR A T I ON S

Ewenny Pot t ery

H ce o f t he K t o f St J B e ospi nigh s . ohn, ridg nd Scene b et wee n Ab eravon and C wmavon Sce ne in t he Af an Vall ey Pontrhy dyf en Cwm Nedd

The L ad Fall G Neat y , lyn h Crai g y Ddinas

Ma o f t he Bas o f t he Ned Tawe and L wchw p ins d, l r

M st Swa ea orri on , ns

wm u Wat e f a Po nt ar dau e C d r ll , We lsh Fish Wif e Map o f t he River Basins o f t he Vale ’ A Wint er s Scene in t he Vale

G e t V a e G e t il s on ill g , il s on

P t e H u e Ba or hk rry o s , rry

’ St D at s c L a t w t Ma o r . on Chur h , l n i j Dunraven C ast l e

The Old u c L a t w t Ma Ch r h , l n i jor

G amma Sc and T w Gat e wb d e r r hool o n , Co ri g

M a t c B u L a t w t on s i ilding, l n i

T we w O t e Def e ce Newt N t t ag e o r sho ing u r n , on o

Sect w O t e D ef e ce Newt N tt a e ion sho ing u r n , on o g

a t e H u e Ma am Ch p r o s , rg Margam A b b ey

The O a e Ma am r ng ry , rg Map o f t he Gower P eninsul a Swansea Bay Oyst ermout h

’ t u St e e f B Ar h r s on , C n y ryn

Penc lawdd

Geological Map o f Gl amorgan Map showing Rail ways and Port s

The Old T am a T e a r ro d, r h rris

' ar ff t Ha Co r i ht Wills Car dz C di Ci y ll ( py g , , ﬁ) C ardiff in 1 802 I LLU R A I N ST T O S xi .

PA G E

Ma St eet a ff e e t da St . ry r , C rdi (pr s n y )

R at Pa a d ff o h rk, C r i

Old West at e St eet a d ff g r , C r i C ardiff Castl e (present day)

a d ff a t e 1 789 C r i C s l , Barry Pub lic Offices ’ Speed s Map o f L landaff ’ Gat ewa o f B Pal ace L a aff y ishop s , l nd

N ma D w a L a aff at e a or n oor y , l nd C h dr l L l andaff Cat hedral Po nt sarn Caves in Wint er Dowlais Neat h in 1 835 A Maid o f Glyn Neat h Neat h A bb ey (present day) Swansea Cast l e Swansea D ocks

Irbic s L a u ea ar ff Cros , l ndo gh , n r C di

M a t e am ea Ma am ynydd C s ll C p , n r rg

Bwlwarcan am L a w C p , l ngyn yd Roman Camp o n British Int renc hment s

D a am ea P e nish C p, n r y l Turb erville and the Lord o f Corty B eaupré Porch

— - l n wi e t r A a D as P s . y . i o

The St o ry o f Glamo rgan.

CHAPTER I .

nt : l t s Name Po i n nd e nt . Th e C o u y , sit o , a Ext

HOW many of t h e boys and girls of Glamorgan have

e e th e e e any knowl dg of county in which th y liv , out side the small district which contains th eir homes & And how many of them have any idea of t he interesting and pl easing things to b e found around the m & This littl e book has been written to try to

e e e and e t ll th m of thos things , to show th m that Glamorgan is as interesting and important as any

county in the Kingdom ; to t ell the m about its

surface ; about its p eople and their work ; and about

its history . B 2 THE STOR Y o r GL AMOR G A N

In olden times t he distri c t no w call ed Glamorgan

n e tat e t he e e wh o w as part of a indep end nt s . To p opl

e e e at a e w as w as Ess l lw liv d h r th t p riod it kno n y g ,

e e e e e a e E llw e t he and th es p opl w r c ll d ssy y r . Wh n Romans cam e into this part of t h e count ry t he y t urned

a a e a a and a e i t a. th t n m into Rom n form , c ll d Siluri

e e a e The p eopl e w re call ed Silures . Anoth r n m for

e a e w as e w at e me w as this W lsh st t Gw nt, hich , in l r ti s , used only for that portion of t he anci ent state now

n e w e and Ess llw known as Mo mouthshir . G nt y g “ ” “ t h e a e e ea a t . both m n s m thing, Fair or B u iful So you see that t he p e opl e who liv ed h ere in those

e e e e - a and t days w r proud of th ir hom l nd , though so “ much of it t hat they eve n call ed it The Beautiful

Country .

h e e t at a ee In t sixth c ntury , h is bout fourt n

e ea a e t at e w as a e hundr d y rs ago , princ of his st n m d

He w as a e t he a e t he Morgan . it who ch ng d n m of

ea t he e at e w e t t . a dis rict Inst d of c lling whol st G n ,

at b e a e w He he said t h it should c ll d Morgan g . also said that t h e easte rn portion of his l ands should still

e e t he e t e a w as b e b e call ed Gw nt , whil w s rn p rt to

Gwlad a — Th e a an known as Morg n L nd of Morg . From Gw lad Morgan th e pr esent name Glamorgan

0 0 11 1 6 8 .

The a e e a w w as old st t , Gw nt or Morg n g , much

t h e e e e th e e l arger than pr s nt county . It includ d whol of t h e Gl amorgan of t o -day (exc ept t he district lying

e h L w t he w e b etwee n t h e Rive r N dd and t e l chwr), hol

e e t e t the of th e pr s n Monmouthshir , and por ions of

4 THE STOR Y OF GLA MORGAN

CHAPTER II .

Th e Surf ace o f t he C o unt y .

GLAMOR GAN SHIRE v ari es much in t h e natur e of its

t a e e e e surface in different par s . A tr v ll r tak n sudd nly

n t a h e as t he t o t h e from o e dis rict to not r , from south

ha e e e a h e w as t he north , would rdly b li v th t still in

The a ea a e t he e e same county . pp r nc of sc n ry is

e e t h e a t e a a e and t he e diff r nt , soil is of no h r ch r ct r , v ry

are no The wild ﬂo w ers and ferns t alike . county

e w a e e e ea and e is w ll t r d , num rous str ms riv rs running along it s many valleys .

Thousands Of years ago t h e surfac e of t he Glamorgan

ea e t a l e a a was , roughly sp king, compos d of two b l nds ,

o ne t h e t and t he t e m e a high in nor h , o h r , so wh t lower ,

e t e a t h e . e e and e e e x nding cross south H r th r , som

d e a e t h e e e lan wo uld ris bov r st. This now r mains as

he e ea a e t high st p ks of our mountain r ng s . An ir — r egular lin e draw n w estward from a short distanc e north of C ardiff to Loughor on th e w estern boundary

w w e e th e o ne a e a e e and h would sho h r t bl l nd nd d , t e

The he ot h er began . nort rn p art rose in pl aces t o n early feet above t he sea l ev e l and sloped do wn

l he e ne w a ea unti t lin mentio d s r ch ed . H ere it

droppe d suddenly to t h e south ern plain which varie d

e t he sea e e a 30 0 ee a e in h ight from l v l to bout f t bov it .

e e e a w as a a a B yond th s ag in tr ct of l nd , now cove red

t h e sea m t he - a e t by for ing Bristol Ch nn l , hrough whi c h THE S U RFA C E OF THE COU NTY 5 th e Severn ﬂowed to t he sea by m eans of an e stuary

w n w The e e much furth e r est than it o stands . S v rn and th e sea carved away this land and in course Of time

h e w Th e e t e c hann l as formed . riv rs ﬂowing south to j oin t he Severn made the ir mark upon t he land and carved out t he num erous vall eys that cut into t he

e t he sea e northern part of the country . Wh n rush d in to form t he Bristol Channel it ﬂow ed into a part w hich B w as below its l evel and so forme d t he Swansea ay . This b ay separates t he p eni nsula of Gower from w hat

a e t he a e Of a is c ll d V l Gl morgan .

That m uch of t he channel w as once l and is proved by th e re mains of for ests s ee n und er t he water on

e a w a h som parts of its Shores . Wh t s igh ground in this sea- covered land are now t h e islands s een in t he

h e nd h m e ece a e as t e e a t e . ch nn l , St p Flat Hol s Pi s of the ff e a th e sea as a e as cli s r m in in d ng rous rocks , such

’ e o ff ea w e t he e thos found Worm s H d in Go r , Tusk r

c Off th e Of the r O e and t he Ro k mouth n ( gmor ),

e e n a Wolv s off Lav rnock Point . Sully a d Barry Isl nds were also formed by t he sea eating away t he softer and lower lying rocks b et wee n them and t he main

a d The a a f e ar e l n . m ny s ndb anks ound in t h e c hann l a ema th e an w lso r ins of l d now cover ed by ater . — The two pl ainly m arke d divisio ns of t he land t he

a in the t and t h e a mount inous portion nor h , undul ting t a e a t he e e h Old inhab i bl l nd in south , w r known to t e

a o f th e a Th ae a s ae a and . e t nts county Bl n u Bro Bl n u , ea th e e e ca e ae a a and st of N dd , th y ll d Bl n u Morg nwg ,

a e the edd as a a a a th t w st of N Bl en u Gw yr . Bl en u 6 THE STORY OF GLA MOR GAN

Gw r was a e e t e m e a o f y lso som tim s r d Tir, or t he L nd , Gw w r . a e e e as h e a e y Bro Morg n g is still r f rr d to t V l , and w e oft e n h ear t h e Welsh inhab itants sp eaking of Y ” Th Fro . e Fro portion of Gwyr or Gowe r is t hat part of the west of t he coun t y c ontain ed w ithin t he

e a w e as t o P ninsul of Go r known us .

The county m ay also b e divid e d into three groups

e b a eac e c w t of riv r sins , h group b ing ontain ed i hin three distin c t mount ain systems . The c hi ef m oun tain ranges are Spurs running in a gen eral southerl y

e m t he a u a c li t t dir ction fro Bl ck Mo nt ins , whi h e wi hou

h m - - t e border in Brecknoc kshire . Fro Craig y Llyn

he - a t h - th ese spurs go t o t south e s and t e sou t h w est . Th e angl e thus forme d contains t he mountains of

Mi ~ lamo r an d G g .

Th e mount ains running to t he south - east form t he w a e ed t he e a e t rsh s of ﬁrst group of riv r b sins , thos of

a Th m h e m e af nd . e e a a t Rhy n y , T f Ely c ntr l ount in group con t ains th e l and drain ed b y t he second group

Of e t he w e O m e r and f a and riv rs , E nny , g or or n , A n ,

h t h e sm all eam a a also t e basins of str s B rry , Th w or

V le Th w and Ho d nant a t he a . e Da , , which dr in third group of river b asins li es w i thi n t he mountains run

- e e e ar e t he t h e ning to t he south w st . Th s basins of

awe and w . N edd , T Llwch r I I I CHAPTER .

i l n t h e A Tr p a o g C o ast .

I — C AR D I FF TO SW S . AN E A .

U G th e m e ea e at D RIN sum r , pl sur bo s run trips from

th t he e w most of e ports of county . Suppos e get on board o ne of these vessels which is about to make a

Ent ance to West B ute D c k a d ff . r o , C r i

a t he a a t o a ea trip long co st from C rdiff Sw ns , so that

ee e h e c w e may s som thing of t e edg of our ounty . 8 THE ; STORY OF G LAMORGAN

Ou r a a t he e ea e w ee bo t s ils out from Pi r H d , b t n th e mu d a a e m t he ff ﬂ ts th t lin the outh of Ta . To our right w e see the tract of rive r- formed land around

he the w e e r h t mouth of El y, hil to our l ft a e t e entrances to the Bute Docks . Shortly w e pass the

t he e e e a r e mouth of Ely , wh r , in P n rth Dock , a numbers of sailing and steam vessels loading coal

h On e for all parts of t e world . our l ft w e now see the entrance lock to the new Que en Al exandra Dock

h e e e a e t 1 h 1 0 7 . op n d by His M j sty King on July 3t , 9 Beyond th e dock th e muddy shor es of the Severn

s e e t h e m t h e m e E tuary xt nd to outh of Rhy n y ,

e e t h e a t he wh r is bound ry of county .

ea a e This mud , though not pl s nt to look upon wh n

the e e e a e ar diﬁ the tid is out, has h lp d to m k C port it

e and ea now is . Not only is it asy ch p to dig into to

a e a S m k dock , but with such a bottom hips which cannot ge t into harbour ar e not in danger if th e tide

and e The ne e goes out l aves the m stranded . vessels stl slowly into t he mud whi ch holds them safely until the

e and a e a a e e the tide r turns ﬂo ts th m g in . W r bottom

a e e e w b e a e t he h rd and unyi lding, th r ould a d ng r to hulls of the ships if t h e tide went out and l eft th em

t he on rocky ground .

The e he e c a e e th e muddy natur of t shor h ng s , onc

he e a ea the mouth of t Ely is passed . At P n rth H d rock bound shore of t he southern part of t h e county

c e e e e and e e e omm nc s , only broken h r th r by p bbly

ea e On ea a eac e e e b ch s . this bold h dl nd b on ﬁr s w r lit in Olde n days to warn t h e inhabitants of t h e A TRIP A L ON G THE COA ST 9

t he e e e surrounding country of coming of n mies by s a. A numb er of passengers await us on th e Pi e r at

e and t he at t he e a P narth , bo is brought to pi r so th t

a they may come on bo rd .

P e P e nart . i r, h

No w w e are ea e Th e e e ea off in rn st . v ss l h ds to the w e see t he south , and on our right high cliffs th at

e a t he a f r n str tch long co st as a as th e eye ca reach . A f ew minutes steamn and t h e point i n t he distanc e

e a e e e a is round d . This is L v rnock Point wh r a sm ll fort is mounted and garrison e d f o r th e d efenc e of th e

f Ou r nd a O . e d ue e a s port Cardiff cours is now w st ,

a e w e are a e ee c e t he e . it is high w t r , bl to k p los to shor

s t h e a t h e a e Ju t round point is Sully Isl nd , and w t r 1 0 TH E STORY OF GL A MOR GA N is d eep enough for us to pass b et ween t he isl and and

he m a w e ca e w l o w t e t a . a at a w e inl nd If m this y w r ,

no t as at a me the a e coul d pass , th t ti isl nd is j oin d to

he e a w f t a a . O se shor by n rro strip of dry l nd cour ,

an a e a e a it is not isl nd th n , but p ninsul .

About three and a half mil es south -e ast of

a e c the a me and t w o and a L v rno k Poi nt is Fl t Hol s , h alf miles south Of t h e Fl at Holmes is t he Steep

On t he m e a ar e a e a a Holmes . for r isl nd Chol r Hospit l

and a e a a e ea b e . Cr m torium , or pl c for burning d d odi s

e b t h a ma Th se elong to e City of C rdiff . A s ll fort on t he isl and helps t o guard t h e ports on this part

a and a e has ee a of our co st , lighthous b n built to w rn

e h sailors of t he dang rs of t e chann el .

The ee m e as am e St p Hol s , its n shows us , is

and and e e can a at high rocky , p opl only l nd two

b t o ne and a a e points . It is a ou h lf mil s i n

he circumfere nc e and rises 40 0 feet above t sea. It a t e t h e t a the e an lso is for iﬁ d , for st nding on sit of a t a e e a a nci en mon st ry . Wh n H rold , King of Engl nd , w as ea e at a am th e e d ef t d H stings by Willi Conqu ror ,

a e his w ife and mother ﬂ e d to this isl nd for sh lter .

b 0 0 ea a t e wa a r ea e e A out 2 y rs f r rds , g t W lsh writ r

a e e a a e a t he We a a c ll d G r ld of B rry , or G r ld lshm n , lso m went th ere to b e safe f rom his en e ies .

ﬁ v e e a e w e a About e mil s b yond L v rnock Point, p ss

Th e e no t t h e Isl and and Port of Barry . ship do s

a e e w e a e e see t he c ll h r , but p ss clos nough to

a a crow ded sands of Whitmore Bay . B rry Isl nd

1 2 TH E STORY OF GLAM’ ORGAN

e and a e ho w g a r e d o ne ﬁx d , both l nt rns s light in

ec and a w e o ne t he e . dir tion , hit in oth r

t no r t h -ea t From Nash Point the c oas t t urns |t O he n s , and continues in this direc tion unt il it reach es t he

The Lias Fo rmatio n ne ar Llantwit Maj o r showing W ate - w r r o n C ave s.

t h e O e . e a th e w e mouth of gmor Soon aft r p ssing Nash , see a l ong n arrow vall ey which extends inland for about a e and a a a a e e w e a mil h l f to Ll ntwit M j or . H r as onc

a e e n w sm ll port, but th r is no trace of it o .

The cliffs along the south of th e count y ar e compose d of a very hard kind of roc k co vered over by a softer

e The e e a limestone call d Lias . Lias rocks w r l id down A TRI P ALON G TH E COA ST 1 3

e and are a a e e e e as by wat r , rr ng d so v nly that th y look

n a e t e ea if th e y had b een built by ma . W t r ac s v ry sily

a and e a t has e a e on the Li s , in som p r s it scoop d out c v s

m e Of t e e a e are b e d i n t he roc k . A nu b r h s c v s to foun

— at Tr esillian a a in this p art of th e coast , Ll ntwit M j or , w and South erndo n .

O ne o f the C ave s m t he Lias Fo rmatio n at Llantwit

Maj o r loo ki ng seaward .

n a e are e e w e t The Tr esillia C v s v ry num rous , t n y

e The nin e b eing found in a distan c e of h alf a mi l .

’ ” s The e e chi ef of t hese is the o ne know n a Fox s Hol ,

e b e t h e e t a e t h e which is 8 5 y ards d e p . A ov n r nc to

e e e t e are cave is a n atural ar ch . Som int r s ing stori s

b a It a e t h e Bo w told a out this rc h . is c ll d of Divin ” e e e e t e a he ing. P opl us d to think , i n old n im s , th t t y could ﬁnd out w h en they w er e going to get marri ed 1 4 TH E STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

“ by means of this Bo w . The y would go into t he

a e nd w e e t h e O e c v a try to thro p bbl s through p ning. Th e numb er of pebbles t hro w n b efore o ne w ent

t e e a ea through , old th m , so th y thought, how m ny y rs

a e e e w b e a e would p ss by b for th y ould m rri d .

a e e Nowad ys , p opl only do this for fun ; but in days gon e by they really thought that everything w ould happ en as the y exp ected . M arri ages also took

he t e pl ace in this cave . T most no ed p rsons wh o w ere marri e d h ere w er e th e p arents of General Thomas

a am e e who e e e t h e Picton , f ous W lsh ofﬁc r , s rv d und r

e a f Duke of Wellington . Gen r l Picton ought w ith

c a and a at the a e o f mu h distinction in Sp in , lso B ttl h w m a e e e e as e . e e W t rloo , wh r kill d S uggl rs us d this

w e cave when such folks re found on this c oast . It is

t a a e et a a e led t h e a e t o St said h t s cr p ss g from c v .

’ a a e a e t h e a a e Don t s C stl , situ t d on cliffs bout mil away .

The South erndown Caves ar e in t he cliffs n ear t h e

w e e are ee littl e at ring place of that n am e . Th y thr

b e and ar e w as The a e Th e a a e i n num r kno n C v , F ir C v , and The e The e w o Windy or Blow Hol . Cav has t Op enings through w hich the sea at high t ide dash es

e e e a a t e r e e The with gr at viol nc , m king r ibl nois . inhabit ant s Of t h e distri c t say that th ey can foretell the w eather by t he nois es m ad e by t he w aves as the y dash

t h e a e In t he a e are um e Of t e into c v . F ir Cav n b rs hos

a me th e r w at e ta pill rs , for d by d ipping of r con ining

e a e ta a t nd a a m t e . e e a lim , c ll d S l cti es a St l g i s Th s pill rs make a ve ry prettyisight w hi ch gives the cave its A TRIP ALON G THE C OA ST 1 5

am e Th e o e ea h e the n . Windy or Blow H l r c s from

ee shore t o t h e top of t h e cliff a distanc e of over 220 f t .

e h e e e e a w ea e Wh n t tid ﬂows , sp ci lly during rough th r , the e he a e a a t h e Of forc of t w v s , dashing g inst mouth t he a e e t he air t t he e e c v , driv s hrough hol with nough power to blow away any light articles pl ac ed upon it .

As w e sail along th e coas t w e see the entranc e to thes e caves appearing as small hol es in t he sides of th e

liﬁ e ar e e We a a e . c s. c nnot l nd to visit th m Th y quit

a o ne t o: et e worth visit , but no should try g to th m

e e th . e sa xc pt when e tide is going out Strang to y , all along t h e coast to this point. w e have s een but very

e a e e a ea ee a littl s nd . Wh r b ch is s n it is usu lly com

e e e at e a a e a pos d of p bbl s , as P n rth , B rry , Ab rth w , and

e it e e a Porthk rry , or is lik a ﬂoor pav d with big sl bs

e of lim st one as at Ll antwit Maj or .

e t he a a a e and e At South rndown s nd g in b gins , wh n once w e pass t h e mouth of th e n r w e have sand

e . a ea the a as in pl nty From this point to Sw ns co st is, a e a a e rul , composed of long stretch es of s nd b ck d for

e a e a - b w e som dist nc inl nd by wind lo n sand dun s .

e th e r we e a th e sea. Wh n off n , notic rock in This is t he Tusker Rock which has b een cut aw ay from t he a a t he a t th e a e On m inl nd by c ion of w v s . our right are t he a e The s nd dun s known as Ne wt on Burrows . boat is now sailing west but w hen w e have rounded

ea a a t e t he - e Porthcawl its h d is g in urn d to north w st .

a w as e a t e t e Porthc wl onc busy li tl port , but h sand has

ﬁll ed up t he entrance so that no w onl y small vess e ls

A TRI P ALONG THE COA ST 1 7

e e e sea can enter th e harbour . It is , how v r , a favourit

side r esort o f th e p eopl e of the county .

the S e t he Our boat keeps well out from hor , for

the cliﬁ s are ea coast is again rocky , though not n rly

h e th e a e . a a e so high as those on t coast of V l S nd, b ck d

ff a e it sl a ea a e e Ba by l o w cli s , m k s pp r nc in Sk r y , but

A Sto rmy Day at Porthcawl .

when Sker Point is passed th e dun es or burrows stretch

e t en e t he t he e for n arly mil s to mouth of N dd . Far away to our l eft as w e sail from Porthcawl to Port Talbot are t he Scar w eather Sands on which a lightship

a e is pl c d . Th ere is not much to attract our atten t ion during

the a Th e . S e a t e e l st part of our trip hor is l og th r sandy . 1 8 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

It gets further and further away as w e steam straight

he a at w a e O e the a and for t h rbour S ns a . v r Port T lbot N eath districts w e see a cloud of smoke showing

e e t he e and e wh r busy iron , tin , copp r , oth r works of t he e lie th e a ar e the n ighbourhood . In b ckground

a t he e a a and hills m rking l imit of Bla n u Morg nwg , p eeping out from t he top of o ne steep p eak w e see t h e

ea a th e Old e gr t st ck of copp r works at Cwmavon . If it w ere now us ed it would make the mountain look like a volcano with t h e huge vol umes of smoke that w a e e ould pour out of it . In front of us is d ns r cloud

e a e e n e of smok th n is to b s en over a y oth r par t. This

e e t he e a a ea and e li s ov r north rn p rt of Sw ns , t lls us

a e ea are a e and t he e th t und rn th L ndor , Morriston , oth r

e e w e industri al c ntr s surrounding th at town . Soon e e t he a a e a w e e nt r harbour , our bo t is m d f st , st p on

e and a e at an end . shor , our voy g is

CHAPTER IV .

A Trip alo ng t h e C o ast .

I I —AR ND GOW . O U ER .

-DA Y a a a ea and we are u TO our bo t s ils from Sw ns , abo t to take a trip round the coast of the Peninsula of

w he a ea the a e Go er . As t bo t st ms slowly down ch nn l which has b een dredged in the entrance to t he

a w e ee e t a e e men h rbour , s on our l f l rg numb rs of busily at work cutting out th e b ed and building t he

h e ne e walls of t w dock which is und r construction .

20 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

u r coast . O way w h en rounding t he H ead li es

e ee t h e e and t he da a b tw n shor ngerous Mixon S n ds .

e e e w ea e and the e ar e Wh n th r is rough th r , tid s high ,

t he sea d a e e e e a ea e e sh s ov r th s s nds with gr t viol nc .

Our course is now due w est and w e sail along a

a ha a m e Of e e e co st which s nu b r v ry pr tty litt l bays .

e a e e ea e e a e ea e a Som h v p bbly b ch s , oth rs h v b ch s of s nd ,

P re se nt Day Swansea. and at e o ne b a t h e ea has b a and in l ast y , b ch oth s nd

e a e et Ba th e a t e p ebbl s . Br c l y is ﬁrst, cosy li tl nook

e w a a Ba j ust round Mumbl es H ead . Th n fol lo L ngl nd y ,

w e Th m e e e c a w e Ba . e and C as ll y for r , sp i lly, is cro d d w ith visitors who take advantage of it s ﬁne sands for AR OU ND GOWE R 21

The ee we se e e o n t he bathing . thr cliffs yond r shore of Cas well Bay have give n t hat b ay its othe r name of l ” Three C iffs Bay .

Wh en our boat has cl eare d Pwll - d a Point the w ide m ” wee o f O c Ba e . O c Ba s p xwi h y co s in sight xwi h y , a a w e has an e e e wee t he sea s ys rit r , xt nsiv s p , though does not o ccupy anything like t he w hol e of t he ﬂ at

r a a wa m n w t rab bit, s Off er g ound . S nd hills ag in , s r i g i h , a a t h e e w e ve a e me e b r to tid s , hich , how r , h v so tim s

a t e as the e and az e p ssed wi hin th m , wh lk r or sh lls

w e t t he b a w e w ab t . a str n ou , sho A l rg por ion of y , hich

a has ee ra e and e t has a sal t m rsh , b n d in d , turn d in o ” n p astur e la d .

On the e t h e b a are t w o a t e t he o ne shor s of y c s l s ,

h e ea e e b e e n a a t e and t he o ne on t st rn sid ing P n rd C s l ,

Th e u f on th e w este rn Side Oxwich C ast le . r ins o t hes e Old strongholds form a pre tty addi tion to th e l andsc ap e as w e sail by .

The castl es gu arding t he b ay w ere er ec t ed b y t he

a e e a o b ut t h e a e w c are Norm ns c nturi s g , c v s , hi h found

t he t he b a e e t he e Of in cliffs surrounding y , w r hom s a a and at f er war ds o f m e n n e ea nim ls , , hu dr ds of y rs

e e t he a e e t he ma c a e b for Norm ns , or v n Ro ns , m to our

Two a e a e are b e ee n t l and . c v s of import nc to s in h ese

r w s a e and cliﬁ s. Th ey a e kno n a B con Hol Min chin h Hol e . T e former h as such a f unny nam e b ecaus e t he ” e e e ea a t rocks h r looks lik str ky b con . I n his c ave

e e a e b e w e e four diff r nt l y rs of on s r found . Among t h e m w er e t he bon es of th e mam moth (an anim al like 22 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN the el ephant but much larger and h aving a man e and

e e e e ff hug curv d tusks), rhinoc ros , ox n of a di er ent

e ee w e b ea e & c . kind from thos now s n , olv s , rs , fox s ,

m a e e e t he Si il r bon s w r found in Minchin Hol e . All these bon es sho w us w hat kind o f anim als live d i n t he

t a a t h e f ar a a e fores s of Gl morg n in dist nt g s .

Oxwich Point forms t he w estern e nd of Oxwi c h

We and Ba m Bay . round this Port Eyn on y co es

a e and w in vi ew . This is soon p ss d wh en e have steam ed round Port Eynon Point our boat is s t eer e d

’ ea the t w e e t he t for Worm s H d , mos st rly point of coun y .

’ Between Port Eynon Point and Worm s Head are t he

’ viland a e e w are t he a e Pa C v s , chi f of hich Go t s Hol ,

’ ’ ’ e nd e a e Culver s Hol a Hound s Hol . In Go t s Hol a

e e e w e e large numb r of int r sting things r found . Not

the e e t he e a a only did xplor rs ﬁnd bon s of nim ls , but

t h e e e a w ma e e a they also found sk l ton of o n , s v r l

e a e t he t he a brok n rings m d out of ivory of m mmoth ,

a Th e e t he and a number of Rom n coins . bon s of

skel eton were discoloured by iron rust whi ch had b ee n

a a l eft on the m by w ter cont ining iron . This dis “ colouration gave t h e n ame of Th e Red Lady of m Pav iland t o t he r e ains .

Behind th e cliffs which fringe all this portion of t he

coast w e see the summit of t he h eight known as C e t n

On a e are a e e a t h e Bryn . this r ng numb r of r m ins of

h D e th a f ar p eriod w h en t e ruids rul d in e l nd . Not

f m t he a e w e a e ee ea a t h e e ro c v s h v b n r ding bout , is chi f

’

e e a e e a e e . of th s , hug croml ch c ll d Arthur s Ston It is

t a t he e t a de said that S . D vid split ston wi h sword in or r AROUN D GOWER 23

S e e a w as no a e to how p opl th t it t s cr d . This cromlech “ o ne t he e m e e nd is of old st, ost r nown d , a most ” e a a e t he e e r m rk bl of Druidic r mains in Wal s .

’ We are no w e ha off Worm s H ad . It s obtain ed its n ame from the curious arrangem ent of t he rocks

c e it— t wo ee c e ve e e at whi h compos or thr su c ssi l v ions , w t a ew a e ee which seen th e a e i h c us ys b tw n , , from ch nn l , c ertainly do look like a large sea-ser pent with uplift ed ” a Th h e d . e rocks are carved into all sorts Of qu eer

’ W m s Head s o w n the nat ura arc f o rmed b t he w or , h i g l h y ave s.

Th e arch i s to b e seen o n t h e r i h t o f t he i t g p c ure .

t he a the sea and e forms by ction of , at t h very end is the ea e a e e e a 20 0 eet . h d its lf, pr cipic mor th n f high Though it is so high t h e waves sometimes dash over t he e e e w e t he sea a a a e v ry top , v n h n round is comp r tiv ly

’ ea a e h calm . In Worm s H d is a c v which as not b een

h e e e e . e t a w e xplor d High ov r ntr nce , hich is op n to “ ” t he sea a e a a e e w e e , is r m rk bl Blow Hol , hos whistl

ea a a ce o f ﬁ v e e s e e a h rd for dist n mil s , is con id r d 24 THE STORY OF GLAMORGA N

Th e e e b e ec te storm warning. hol is suppos d to conn d

o ne a the a e e with th e cave below . At p rt w v s hav

t he as ee formed a natural tunnel through rock , s n in

e e t h pictur .

About eight miles from th e H ead ar e t h e Hel sw ick w a s w a e . e S nd , on hich lightship is moor d This ship

W e b e ast e Go we r. o l y C l ,

can see as w e; m c Ba c j ust stea p ast Rhos illy y , whi h

’ es t w e a e li nor h of Worm s H ead . As p ss Whit ford Point our c ours e is changed and w e sail du e e ast t o

e e e t he e a o f th e w w e . nt r Burry Inl t , stu ry Ll ch r Riv r

et ﬁ a e and e This inl is dif cult to n vigat , on Whit ford Point a lighthouse has b ee n bui lt to h elp sailors to take th eir b earings and to warn them of th e dangers AR OUND GOWER 25

As w e the e a w e s th e of the co ast . go up stu ry pa s

ruins of Weobl ey C astl e on the right .

The coast to this point h as been very like that of

e The are a t he coast of the Val . rocks simil r to those

h Bv of t he cliffs b etween Penar th and t e Nash . and

w ea e Penclawdd a a e by as e get n r r , s nd m k s its

e and e a a appearanc , to our l ft the s ndy co st of

h n e Carmarthenshire stretch es as f ar as t e e y e ca r ach .

In t he distance w e see t he tall chimn ey stacks and

he a e a e . T smoke Of t h e works of Ll n lly ch nn l narrows ,

t h a e a e w e e . e w ter g ts sh llow r , and cannot go furth r

Penclaw dd w e e a e e e To our right is , h r numb r of p opl

a e and e ﬁnd employme nt in g th ring curing cockl s . The huge h eaps of cockl e shells whiten t he shor e and

a t he . t he s eem to sp rkle in sun In front is Loughor ,

Leu car u m t he a w e e a e e of Rom ns , h r tr c s of th ir

occupation ar e still to b e found .

As t he boat cannot steam further it s h ead is turn ed ” r und and w r w W o e a e e a . e e , hom rd bound hav vi ew ed t he a wa u e w e a co st on our out rd j o rn y , so can p y some attention to t he ships that sail up and down the

e e th e e e a chann l on our r turn . Most of v ss ls that p ss

ar e - a e r e e us big , dirty looking ste mers . Th y a colli rs and ar e engaged in carrying t h e steam coal o f

a all a h e w e a Gl morgan to p rts of t orld . Yond r is

ee e t h Sh ship that s ms v ry high up in e water . e is

a e a a and o ne h tr v lling in b ll st , will put in at of t e

a a ports for a c rgo of co l , iron , or other goods which we in Glamorgan have for sal e . 26 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

Very different from this ship is anoth er that s ee ms

m e d e ea . a an top h vy It is ti b r ship , as it is summ r she is allowe d to lo ad pit props on her decks as w ell

e her e b e c ea . as in h er holds . In wint r d cks must l r That ship to our right is r et ur ing from Sp ain w ith a cargo of iron o r e i n pl ac e of th e c o al which she took

Th e o ne a e w w ea th e out . in front is l d n ith h t from

a and t h e f us has e south of Russi , ship ollowing , com

t a a a e e b e from France wi h lo d of pot to es . Th s will

a e at a w en e t e b e te disch rg d C rdiff , h c h y will distribu d ,

e t a e b u t a e t he a not only ov r Sou h W l s , lso ov r Midl nd

district of Engl and .

This ship carri e s a cargo of copper o re for t he

e e w at w a ea and e ar e num rous copp r orks S ns , oth rs loaded wit h various ores and m etals to b e discharged

he e e a t h e c t t e ar e at t s v r l ports of ounty. Li l tugs

n a e e a a e p anti g long . H r is pi lot bo t whi c h is r turning

to Cardiff after placing a. pilot on board a vesse l

e b c om ing up ch ann el . Yond r is anoth e r pilot oat

b eating dow n channe l against th e south - w esterly wind t o pick up h er pilot again wh en he has taken an

w a e e t t h e e ea out rd bound v ss l in o op n s .

ac t aw e ca t e w e Fishing sm ks , r l rs , t l ships ith h rds

ca t e m e c a a of t l fro South Am ri for C rdiff, fruit ships

th e t e and t he e e and from sou h of Europ W st Indi s ,

e e e e a a e all a v ss ls with g n r l c rgo s of sorts of goods , p ss

‘ n t h e a Th a u p a d down e chann l continu lly . e se is

e e w t e e e a w a n v r i hout v ss ls of som kind l ys in sight , for t he Bristol Chann el is o ne of t he busi est waterw ays

on t he coast of Britain .

28 TH E STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

w m o n a e a e a e . ds of our inds , m k our clim t oist Win from t he sea are al w ays more or l ess l ad e n w ith w at e r

w w t h e t vapour . As our inds mostly blo from e w s or t he - e a t he a O ea e south w st, th t is from Atl ntic c n , th y H d w n e a . a w e a h o bri g us pl nty of r in no mount ins , e e e w a e v r , much of this moistur oul d p ss ov r us to

a t he a h inl nd districts . But high mount ins of t e north of th e c ounty force th e w ater -lad en w inds up int o cold er regions wh ere t he vapour is condens e d and falls as rain .

e e a S ea a e ea e the e et e G n r l ly p king , pl c s n r r w st g mor

t a e l o w - t rain h n thos further east . But lying dis ri cts

ea the et e a a e at a t a ce n r hills g mor r in th n thos dis n ,

Th e w ett e ven though they b e n earer th e sea. est p art — of Glamorgan is t h e district round Craig-y -llyn t h e high est land in t he county whil e th e dri est parts are

h O e ea a a h e e ea t e a . t thos n r co st ft n , h vy r in f lls on hills wh en the ﬁelds in th e Vale ar e scorching und er

u t he th e th e a b rning sun . In south of county , average yearl y rainfall vari es from t w enty-s ev en t o

e e t he a e m thirty inch s , whil in north it r ng s fro seventy to eighty in ch es .

For many y ears records h ave b een k ept of t he

e a m e o f d a m te mp erature of th e air at a c rt in ti y . Fro these it has b een found that taking every d ay in t h e

a h e a e e e a e f e ee . ye r , t e av r g t mp r tur is ﬁ ty d gr s F During t he su mm e r months t he average te mperature is

- w e th e w e it sixty t o degr es , and in int r months is

- SO t he e e at e t h e w e thirty eight degr ees . t mp r ur on hol

a e and e e t is neither very w rm , nor v ry cold , cons qu n ly CLIMATE 29 t he cli mate of Glamorgan is d escribed as a mild or

m e a e a e e t h e a e a e ea te p r t clim t . If you compar v r g y rly t emperatur e w ith eithe r t he summer or th e winter a e a e o u see t a t h e e e e t e e v r g , y will h t diff r nc is but w lv

We t e e e sa th e a e ea c e . d egrees in ch as , h r for , y clim t is e ab e qu l .

e e am e S eede w ho e An English trav ll r n d p , liv d

b . t e e ea a o s e m e t a out hre hundr d y rs g , p nt so ime in “ am a and e t h e a e Th e air Gl org n , wrot of clim t is

e e a e and e e e t he t mp r t , giv s mor cont nt to mind than ” d e t he soil doth fruit an eas unto travellers . You shal l read in t he n ext chapter what another old writer thought abo ut Gl amorgan as a fruit or food b earing

t S eede a e had a e distric . p must h v wrong impr ssion

e a d t h e e Of t he e e r g r ing f rtility its soil , for v ry mildn ss he a e and t he a a a f a ar e pr is d , bund nt r in that lls , good

w a e for t he gro t h of veget ble lif .

Th e si tu ation of th e mountains affects t h e climate by sheltering t h e l and from t h e cold east and north

e t he e e th e a e a winds , whil south rn Slop of surf c lso

a e f o r ea a h e m k s gr ter w rmth during t sunny hours . Th e equable and mild climate of t he county is Shown by t he numb ers of d elicate pl ants that grow in the

e all t he e a a he op n y ar round . Such pl nts s t myrtle and ma a e t th e w e gnoli liv out of doors right hrough int r .

e a w e ea a e and a e e G r niums ﬂo r in gr t qu ntiti s , gr p s rip n t m h e O e air . a a e e a in p n At M rg Abb y , south rn pl nts

as a e em and are a e such or ng s , l ons , citrons pl c d out of

t he e th e e doors during summ r months , and fruits rip n

e in th sun . 30 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

CHAPTER VI .

Th e L ad ie o f all C o unt ries .

’

a . a a t e e the SIR John Str dling, of St Don t s C s l , wrot

m e the are e following poe in 1 620 . Som of words sp lt

a e am e b e e t o r th r funnily , but I sur you will abl

e e l und rstand th m al .

’ Fo r e e t t at B rit aine f e v ry hing h ord s, Is h ere in plentie gre te ; Of every t hing t hat man can wish

To wea and and et e . r, drink,

A nd in G am a le nt ie dwelles l org n p , A nd keep et h crowded court e ; A nd t o her gat es t he wantso me may F m e v rie e e e t e ro e wh r r sor .

The w t e b ea and b arlie ale hi n r d , ’ H e e in w sto e r is ond rous r , A nd f at t e ﬂ e Of shee e and e d sh p kin , 0 N land pro duce th more .

“ ’ A nd in Glamorgan s hi lly parte s e reatlie t ab u Col g do h o nd, Fo r e and f o r le nt i e t o o goodn ss, p I ’ t s equal ne er was f ound .

l Vit h w and ed e and a t ood iron, l d s l A nd lime ab undant lie ; A nd e veri t at mankind e wa t e t hing h n , ” T ell e his land dot h w supp li . IN P RAISE OF GLAMORGAN 31

’ G il m s Pr aise o f G lamo an Daf y d d ab w y rg .

Th e following is a translation of some lines written

a ab a in praise of Glamorg n by Dafydd Gwilym , very much older and mor e note d po et than th e o ne m en h t io ned . a e t e e e e D fydd liv d in fourt nth c ntury , and in t he portion of t h e poem from which t he lin es “ re a e a a t o e and he a t k n, D fydd is spe king Summ r , says to her

TO ea G am a w e we a t d r l org n, h n p r , Oh b ea a t u a t me m ea t & , r ho s nd i s y h r M b e e a t u a t m e y l ssing giv ho s nd i s , A nd crown wit h j o y her glowing climes & Ta e o n her e a e t h ta k lov ly v l s y s nd, A nd t ea and t am e t he a r d r pl round l nd, The b eaut eous l and whose h arvest lies A ll she lt ered f rom incl em ent skies & Ra a t w t c and e a weet di n i h orn vin y rds s , A nd a e o f fish and ma eat l k s nsions n , W t a o f t e w e e e we i h h lls s on h r kindn ss d lls, A nd w e e eac tab e h r h hospi l lord, Heaps f o r t he stranger guest his b oard & A nd where the generous wine cup swells ; W t t ee t at b ea the sc ea i h r s h r lu ious p r, So t c c t e e e w e e hi kly lus ring v ry h r , That the f air country o f my love Looks dense as o ne cont inuous grove & H er f w w t w a b e t eam lo ty oods i h r l rs , ’ Her fie lds wit h fl o w rs t hat love t he stream ; H er a e a 1 e c d a v ll ys v r d rops ispl y , E t o f c and t ee o f ha igh kinds orn , hr y ; B r t a u w t her t ef e fl & i gh p rlo r, i h r oil d oor ’ Sweet arden ea o n cea e & g , spr d o n s shor ’ Glamorgan s bount eous knights award Bright mead and b urni shed gold t o me ; G am an b a t o f ma a b a l org o s s ny rd, Well skill ed in harp and vocal gle e 32 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

The district s round her b order spread From her have drawn t heir daily b read H er me at her m he r a e t e , ilk, v ri d s or s , Have b een the li f e o f distant shores I A nd co urt and h aml e t f ood have f ound ' F m the c Of B t a ut e b ro ri h soil ri in s so h rn ound .

VII CHAPTER .

r c ult ur Ag i e .

TH E soil in t he lo w e r - lying parts o f Glamorgan is

e e a e e t e e e a w e e th e e g n r ll y v ry f r il , sp ci lly h r und r soil

t h Th m e t o is of e Li as format ion . e addition of li t he a t h e t he me t e l nd , or ploughing up of li s on

- eat c ea e its e Th e ac ce sub soil , gr ly in r s s f rtility . pr ti of li ming t h e land h as b ee n c arri e d out i n t he c ounty

t h e e ee za et e small from r ign of Qu n Eli b h . Num rous

m a b e ee all e t he t - e e e t he kilns y s n ov r coun ry sid , wh r farmers us ed t o burn t he lim est on e in ord er to produce t he e h a a a t e lime n cessary for t e l nd . Now d ys h y buy t h e e ea u se a b ee at lim r dy for , it h ving n burnt

e a f and e m e Bridg nd , C rdi f , oth r li burning works in

f e a h e he t dif er nt p rts of t south of t coun y . In t he c e ntre of t he c ounty t h e quality o f t he soil

n t he t e e varies consid erably . O hills h r is but littl e ea and t at a a e w t a e rth , h of poor n tur , i h b rr n rocks p eeping through h er e and t here . In t h e valleys and along t h e banks of t he streams is found a rich soil

a w h e e which has been c rri ed do n by t riv rs. This

w as a llu v mm and ea kind of soil is kno n , n r t he

t t he e e e c a the a d ff di t mou hs of riv rs , sp i lly in C r i s rict, A GRICULTURE 33

a a are b e The l arge tracts of lluvi l soil to found . land in t he north of t he county ranges from the black p eat

a e e on th e mount in h ights , through a brown grav lly

h e e t earth where t e ground is dri r, to a f r il e loam in t he valleys .

’ m e e The obj ect of far rs work , or agricultur as it is

e e and call d , is to provid food for mankind for animals .

man c S e e For , orn , as wheat , is grown h ep , cattl , and pigs ar e reared for ﬂ esh food ; and from the milk of

e e e are e the cows butt r and che s mad . Hay , straw ,

are t he corn , grass and roots grown to provide necessary food for beasts .

The condition of farming in Glamorgan is hardly so good as we might expect in a county blessed with

and a e. a m ea such a soil clim t For m ny , any y rs the

a farmers stuck to old w ys and old forms of tools . Owing to t he eﬁ orts of the Glamorgan Agricultural

e the e t e e a a r Soci ty , and to b t r duc tion of the f rme s , th ey have no w come to see that if they are to be

e e e and e succ ssful th y must use new m thods impl ments. Great improvements have taken place within recent

ea No w e a m t he y rs . , in almost ev ry f r , even in hill

s the e e di trict, work is carri d on by m ans of the most u - - a e e and a e p to d t machin ry ccording to mod rn methods .

The climate of Glamorgan is best suited for that

’ e as branch of a farm r s work known dairy farming. The ample supply of moi sture gives a plentiful growth

Th e ab undant mainfall of grass . goes against the

& - ea a county as a corn growing district. N rly h lf the

e a a surface is mad up of mount in and moorland , nd a D 34 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN great deal of t he r emainder is al ways laid down in

a e e a e grass lands . Ar bl , or plough d l nd , compris s only

a e e o ne t he about cr s , or slightly ov r ninth of

t a a ea. On a ar e e ot l r this l nd grown corn , cultivat d

a and c . gr ss , root rops

The e ea e are o ats w heat and a e c r ls chi ﬂy grown , b rl y ,

e e r e Oa t a e though som littl y is sometim es sown . ts k

a a e ea e a e up bout cr s , wh t a littl under cr s ,

a e a ea and barl ey about cr s . This r does not grow nearly t h e qu antity of corn that is required for t he food

man ea w e a e a e a e of and b st , so h v to import l rg qu ntiti s

e e . as e from for ign countri s Root crops such potato s ,

e a - e &c t ake e turnips , sw des , m ngold wurz ls , . , som

ac e and e and e a e a e a r s , clov r oth r cultiv t d gr ss s bout a e Th e e are a e ha cr s grass s m d into y , which is

a a e a e the a lso got in l rg qu ntiti s from gr zing lands .

The Sw e e and a are e roots , turnips , d s , m ngolds , pull d up ,

and a e ea e e so il o r ace a st ck d in h ps cov r d by , pl d in b rns

e e w a e re r and cov r d by straw . In this y , th y a p e

w u e e e served for inter se . When gr n food is scarc in

a e e ar e e i e t he hard w e th r , th y chopp d up and g v n to

and a e sheep c ttl .

The e e the e county is w ll ﬁtt d for rearing of cattl ,

re e its a e ea and l arge numbers a br d upon p stur s . Y rs

o a a had a ee o w n e e a ag Gl morg n br d of its , but th s h ve

disa eared and ee the e e almost pp , English br ds , as H r ford , T e and a e e t e a e . he D vons , Shorthorns h v tak n h ir pl c cattle bred in th e c ounty are famous for the high

e ee e e e e quality of th ir b f , which som p opl think is qual to the best bred upon t he noted pastures o f the West

36 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

VI I I CHAPTER .

Th e Basin o f h e h m n t R y ey .

TH E Rhymney is the most e asterly of th e rivers of

a t he t wee and Glamorg n , and forms boundary be n it

h e u . e e e t Co nty of Monmouth It ris s in Br cknockshir , and en e the ea - - Milw r e e t rs county n r Rhyd y , wh r the

ee e lamo r an e thr counti s g , Monmouth , and Br cknock

an e a a Bri hdir meet . A r g of mount ins known s Cefn t

ee th e e a -e e e k ps riv r in south ast rly dir ction . This it

m e e t he a e follo ws until it e ts its chi f tributary , B rgo d ,

at t he Of a na e The which ﬂows into it town th t m .

a e e ee a e th e a e ea and B rgo d riv r k ps p rall l to p r nt str m , is only abl e to j oin it when once t he end of t he C efn

Bri hdir ha ee e t range s b n round d .

th e a e t he e From town of B rgo d riv r runs south , with C efn Gelligaer separating it from the basin of

h e t h e a t e a . e T ff , which li s to west of it Just bov Caerphilly th e river makes a sudden b end to th e east

e a e a e e Car nau i in ord r to round ridg c ll d C fn , wh ch

e e e a e stops its southward cours . H r it m k s a wide

w ee and e e e ea th e s p , wh n onc its cours is cl r of

- na e n a e e . mou t in , its dir ctio ch ng s south w st This

s a e its m o nth course it follows until a hort dist nc from , when it again bends to th e south -east and enters the sea a f ew miles east of Cardiff . Th e upp er portion of t he river - basin li es in a

e e a e m mining district , and s v r l prosp rous ining towns

t a O and villages are situated on i s b nks . f these THE B AS I N OF THE RHYMNE Y 37 38 TH E STORY o r GLAMORGAN

Po nt lo tt n e e nOrth h y li s furth st . This is o ne of t e m t t th e a e and e e ost populous dis ric s in v ll y , h r is

e an w The w Of a situat d iron orks . to n B rgo ed is about f e Po nt lo tt n and a a our mil s south of y , it, lso , is r pidly

e e a n m d v loping into busy i dustri al c entre . Coal ining

t he e a a a t t h e is chi f occup tion of its inh bit n s , but m a ac e e ca a a e th nuf tur of ch mi ls is lso c rri d on . In e

a e t he a e t he a e v ll y of B rgo d is mining vill g of Fochriw.

f ew e b e w a e e a and a A mil s lo B rgo d is P ng m , short

a ce u e t t l e e a dist n f rth r sou h s i l is H ngo d . Co l mining

a a th e e b ut at e a a a is g in chi f i ndustry , P ng m is sm ll

and e e has a e e iron foundry , H ngo d W lsh hosi ry

e ae a e e a ce m factory . G llig r st nds som littl dist n fro t he e a It w as a ac e e a ce riv r b nk . pl of som import n

m T a a m r a e . h e a e Sa Hi in Ro n tim s Rom n ro d c ll d ,

c r n a e c e e e ae whi h a from C rdiff to Br on ov r C fn G llig r ,

a e e e was ac e o ne passed t hrough th e vill g . H r pl d of those milit ary stat ions which t h e Rom ans always m ade

t a S e a o t he e th e to guard heir ro ds . A hort tim g sit of

a a and th e a t h e st tion w s dug out , found tions of

w e e a a e O gatew ays and w alls Of t he camp r l id b r . ther r emains such as coins and pi eces of pottery were also b t rought to ligh .

Ll anbrad ach stands on the river j ust wh ere it

a a t n a m akes its b end t o t h e e st . It is hrivi g co l

a e b e w t he m e mining vill age . A short dist nc lo , Rhy n y

e the Gl ed r w w rec eive s a tributary c all d y , hich ﬂo s

b en eath th e walls of Caerphilly Cas tl e . THE BA SIN OF THE RHYMNEY 39

Caerphilly is a market town which li es seven miles

a north of Cardiff . It st nds in a broad vall e y e nclosed

ea a ea n e by hills . In rly d ys it was of gr t importa c , as

e a e a h the castl e h re gu rd d pass , by which t e Welsh

’ Of the hills could sweep down upon Cardiﬂ and t he surrounding country .

The industri es of t he neighbourhood are chi eﬂy

e e are a e mining and qu arrying . Th r l rg quarri es at

Pwll ant e e e are a e p . Ab rtridwr and S ngh nydd l rg

h e mining vill ages in t e district . H re are colli e ri es and

ua e . ae a ee e and q rri s C rphilly is f mous for its ch s ,

a e at t h e this articl e of food is still m d town . Ther e

e a a e w e e a e Of a is her l rg iron foundry , h r numb r h nds

are e e . a e e e e and e mploy d B con is xt nsiv ly cur d , som

Th e a n w ﬂannel is made . Roman st tion k o n as

’ u am a e e ee a e e J p is suppos d to hav b n situ t d her , but

e e ee e e . e no r mains hav b n discov r d It is possibl ,

a th e a e a a w however , th t c stl st nds on wh t as formerly

h e t he fortress of t Romans .

B elow Caerphilly no village of any importanc e stands on the Rhymn ey . In the land contained within th e b end of th e river are t w o places which

are e a u must b e noticed . They C fn M bly and R perra

The e a ﬁ ne e a e an Castle . form r is x mpl of old Welsh

e a a r M anor Hous . It cont ins m ny things that a e of

a e . e e Ru err great interest. Ch rl s I I onc visit d p a Castl e f w for a e days .

For t he l ast f e w mil es of its cours e the rive r is

a e a da t he e tidal . Th t is , twic y tid ﬂows into t he

a river filling it from b nk to bank . During that time 40 THE STORY o r GLAMORGAN the e e fl o w wat r se ms to from its mouth to its source , but when the tide ebbs again t he water all flows back

a . e e e le ving the banks high and muddy Som tim s, wh n tides are high and a strong wind blows up the Bristol

a e the e Ch nn l , water ov rﬂows the banks and covers the

t he e land near riv r . Around its mouth the land is

e e compos d of dr ary mud ﬂats , much of the mud

e the e e having be n brought down by riv r its lf .

CHAPTER IX .

C aerphilly C ast le .

P e a t he e a CAER HILLY Castl st nds in villag of C erphilly ,

e about seven miles north of Cardiff. It is r emarkabl

e e e ea e a e an for its gr at siz . It cov rs a gr t r r a than y oth er castle in Great Britain with the exc eption of

a e The ea a Windsor C stl . rly history of C erphilly has

e w as be n mixed up with that of Swansea. This because Caerphilly stands in the old Lordship of

e e e s e Sengh nydd, and old r cords m ntion a ca tl of

e Hen d e was a S in y . Sein H nyd Castle Gower

s e castle which peopl e think to b e Swansea Ca tl .

e at t he The old Lordship of S nghenydd was ,

the e e a e . o Conqu st, giv n to W lsh lord This l rd was

a e a e e . is nc stor of Ivor B ch , Lord of S ngh nydd It n e a ot known whether he had a castl e her . The l nd on which Caerphilly Castle stands b elonged to Welsh

e owners until the reign of Edward I . In this r ign ,

— — e Gilbert de Clare the Red Earl b ecame its own r . CAERP HILLY CASTLE 41

He Th . e a e e , most likely , bought it P ss of S ngh nydd was then unguarded and t he Welsh of t he b ills were

e w ee the a an ea abl to s p down into lowl nds without y f r .

b ar the a e et ee ea 1 26 To p ss , Gilb rt , b w n the y rs of 8 and 1 T 271 h e . h e , built t e Castl e of Ca rphilly work

C aerphilly C astle Resto red

F a r T l k A r h ro m sketch b y M . G . . C ar l t c . Camb ., m en w ere often attack ed by the Welsh and the building

The a went on but slowly . w lls in some parts show

a e e w a he had e th c r l ss ork, s if t masons hurri d e building

e e the a a b for tt ck of an enemy .

The whol e of the works b elonging to the castle

ea e The covers an ar of about thirty acr s . pl an on which 42 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

h t h e e e e e and a a it is built , bot for purpos of d f nc tt ck ,

n e t he e shows that a v ery cl ever ma d signe d it . All h lps that t he ground i tself could give have bee n t ake n full

Th t he Gled r a . e a e advant ge of w t rs of y , which ﬂows

t he v alle ~ w ere e a the through y , us d to turn p rt of w Th surface contain e d w ithin t h e al ls into l akes . e brook also ﬁll e d t he moat w hich defende d the bas es

Le e e e he e a a . of t walls in s ver l p rts Hugh D sp ns r,

e he ec e he w e en e e t he e e es wh n b am t o n r , str gth n d d f nc

the e o u w of this already strong castl e. In pictur y ill

It f m a see t h e c astle as it once stood . or s spl endid exampl e of o ne of th e fi n e st fortresses of t he Middle

Ages .

1 326 t he a e e e a a In , b rons r b ll d ag inst King Edw rd

Th e and e e e ﬂ ed ae II . king D sp ns r to C rphilly from

. w e e e w e e the e Bristol . It is not known h th r th y r in castl

m he e l One or not wh en th e ar y of t r b e s b esi eged it .

e a a th e w as at ea and a w e writ r s ys th t king N th , th t h n th e a a e e t he e e e e ﬂ ed e rmy c m n ar castl , D sp ns r to r j oin

t t h e e a him . A story is old among W lsh th t both w ere

Th e a a e e ca e present . story s ys th t th y s p d through a breach in the w alls when th e d efenders made a sorti e

e e e e . e h e on th ir n mi s Aft r ﬁghting hard , t e d ef nders were forced to give t h e castl e up to t he ar my of the

ee and t h e a qu n b rons .

e d e t e who e th e a Rog r Mor im r , command d rmy ,

a e t he ca t e as w a e w a e cl im d s l his , but it as ft r rds giv n

a th e D e enser am a I I I Th b ck to p f ily by Edw rd . e

as e w as a e e e O e w he c tl ag in b si g d by w n Glynd r , but

a e fail ed to c ptur e it . It was also b esi eg d during the

THE BASIN OF THE TAFF‘ 45 carrie d away to build houses and farm buildings

a can see t he e near by , but s you from pictur , most of the castl e remains to form what has b een called th e ” Noblest ruin of anci ent architecture in Britain .

The large h all of the castle has been roofed in and

l a th e ﬂoored . This is the on y p rt of building that is

e a . t h e cover d . King Edw rd VII paid a visit to castle

1 e s he a ee he 0 7 . s t in July , 9 P rhap was nxious to ruins of the only castle in his kingdom that can rival

le z e The a his Cast of Windsor in si . inhabit nts of the district gat h ered in their thousands to welcome

b e a e the Royal visitor. You may sure th t th y gave him more of a Welsh welcom e than th eir ancestors

e he a e a gave to his anc stor, t unfortun t Edw rd II .

CHAPTER X .

Th e Basin o f t h e Taf t . — I . THE T F V AF ALLE Y .

THE Taff rises in two heads in a dreary and lonesome

t he e the e V n spot on slop s of Breconshir a . Th e t wo heads are known as the Taﬁ Fawr and the Taff

Th e a h Fechan . l tter forms part of t e north ern

e een e boundary b tw this county and Br cknock . The t w o T dﬁl streams j oin above Merthyr y . In the basi n

th e Dol aer of Taff Fechan , at yg , a reservoir w as

e 1 85 e e construct d in 8 , whenc wat r is conve yed in

e e a a e e iron pip s to M rthyr , dist nc of sev n mil es . On 46 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

t he a ea e - e - - e are the T ff Fawr , n r C fn Co d y Cymm r ,

e u e w m Ff rwd pictur sq C Falls .

At M erthyr t he river enters the mineral basin

e o n h of South Wal es . From her to its m t it ﬂows

t ea and ee through a distric full of w lth , t ming with

a a . e t ea a o w as busy inh bit nts M r hyr , y rs g , but a small “ a The a t o p rish , through which brook Morl is ﬂows ” t he a e th e 1 t h e it m e a j oin T ff. Wh n in 8 c ntury s in r l wealth began to attract min ers and iron w orkers t o t h e e wa e e No w pl ac it s not v ry much mor . it is a a e w t e a a l rg to n wi h ov r inh bit nts .

e e a and a e M rthyr is r nowned for its co l iron tr d .

e a e e e e are ea ee w N ar it is Dowl is , wh r th r gr t st l orks and e and a and a e e collieri s , bout one quart r mil s

t h e C f arthf a e e e north of town is y , with its xt nsiv i ron

nd T w ta a e . h e a ste l works Do l is Brook , on which s nds the w a a e the a and to n of th t n m , ﬂows into Morl is ,

he t j oint stream ﬂows into t he Taff at M erthyr .

From Merthyr Ty dﬁl t he rive r ﬂows in a dir ection

a e t a e which is lmost south . High on its l f b nk li s

e t a e e e a a e t he e Cefn M r hyr R ng . This ridg s p r t s riv r

b a t he a e w t from its tri ut ry , B rgo d Taff , hich ﬂows in o

’ n t a ar e th e it at Quaker s Yard . O the righ b nk

e a e a w as e Ab rd r Hills , lso kno n Mynydd M rthyr . This range divides t h e Taff Vall e y from that of t he

. e a e e a e Cynon Ab rc naid , Tro dyrhiw , M rthyr V l ,

’ e an a e a and e a are all im Ab rf , Qu k r s Y rd , Tr h rris portant mining v illages within t h e area of t he

T d ﬁ e at t he e l . Borough of M rthyr y Ab rcynon , j unc TH E B A SIN OF THE TAFF 47

t h e a a a e e tion of th e Cynon with T ff , is l rg villag , w here coal mining forms t h e chi ef work of t he in

t- e e th e a ca e not e habi ants . Wh r l nds p is disﬁgur d by

th e c o llieries t he e e ea . rubbish tips from , sc n ry is b utiful

e e the a e the From its conﬂu nc with B rgo d , Taff ﬂ ows in a southerly direction until it r each es

e e e t h e a Pontypridd , wh r it is j oin d by Rhondd . Pontypridd is the n atural c entre of communication

h e all t e a . e e e for v ll ys lying north of it In cons qu nc ,

e e ar it is a busy rail w ay c entre. Th r e h ere large

B d e Po ntypridd ri g .

e e and w a a and a e colli ri s iron orks , nchor ch in c bl

and a e e e e works , tin works , iron br ss foundri s , br w ri s , and a a a e a The o ne a sm ll ﬂ nn l f ctory . town is th t has e a and e e e e grown v ry r pidly , ow s its xist nc almost e e th e a e w as a a ntir ly to co l trad . It rur l spot of

ea e t 1 40 t he a e a a gr t b auty un il , in 8 , Taff V l R ilw y

O e t he and a e e laid p n district , co l pits w r sunk in the

e n ighbourhood . TH E STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

a e a e a e e a e e Pontypridd t k s its n m from c l br t d bridg , o ne t he e e e a e of s v n wond rs of Glamorg nshir . This

e e a S t he a bridg , consisting of a singl rch panning T ff , w as construct ed in 1 750 by a local mason n amed

a a e the e Willi m Edwards. For m ny y ars it was larg st

e a b e was singl sp n ridg in the world . Edwards a

e - a a a the He s lf t ught m son , and native of county .

a e e e The f il d s v ral times in his undertaking . ﬁrst

e w as ee w as e bridg built of thr arches , and wash d away

e e o ne e by ﬂoods . The s cond , a singl arch , doubl d up

e e was e w t he ea b for it ﬁnish d , o ing to gr t weight of

e . the and e u a e t h e its sid s In third succ ssf l tt mpt , i nward push of the bases of t h e arch w as lighte n ed

i by three round hol es being l eft in the b uttresses o n ea e e e e the c e t h e ch sid . This pr v nt d light urv of top

th e e e wa s and the of arch from b ing forc d up rd , bridge still stands .

The bridge stretch es 66 feet across t he b ed of t he “ e a the ee a Taff , rising lik a r inbow from st p b nk on the e astern side of the river and resting gracefully on ” h b u a e e t he e t e ea e . w stern , ide l of archit ctural l gance It gives out a remarkabl e e cho rep eating a sound eight

Th e e the e or nine times . steepn ss of bridg was found

e e a and inconv ni ent for whe led tr fﬁc , a second bridge

a 1 8 57 of three arch es was built longside it in . A

w e e third bridge as built rec ntly . It is mad of

e e and a new a no w concr t iron , form of material th t is

largely used .

e On a height near the town , surround d by Druidic

t e he remains , is the famous Logan S on , another of t THE BA SIN OF THE TA FF 49

e th wond rs of e county . Although it w eighs about

n e and a it c an e e in half tons , asily b rocked by

e e t he e pr ssing on its south sid . In n ighbourhood is

e a e as h u e Daw el a min r l w ll , known n on G lly , which is said to h ave t he property of curing diseases of the

e e . Berw a a e y s T ff , short distanc north of Pontypridd ,

e e a w as onc a pr tty casc de . Much of its beauty has

b i n C o ie C ilf n dd . Al o ll ry, y y x l si (Immediat ely af t er t h e E p o o n, been lost owing to the water from the river b eing

e e ee he a a a n turn d asid to f d t Glamorg n C n l , which ru s

' through the Taff Valley from M erthyr Tydﬁl to

d Th e a the k t he e Car iff . bl sting of roc s in riv r bed

ea has also help ed to rob it Of its wild b uty .

‘ e are e e Cilf n dd N ar Pontypridd Tr for st, y y , and

Ho kinst o wn e e h ad p . Tr for st once iron works , and E 50 THE STORY o r GLAMOR GAN h no w a and as n e Ot . import ant lectrical dep It , the e a e are a e Cilf n dd oth r pl c s , mining vill g s . y y w as t he n e sce e of a disastrou s colli ery xplosion ,

e Be e wh re many lives were lost . sid s coal mining,

Ho kinst o w n h p as a brick making industry , and

a a e are m e sanit ry w r s also anufactur d .

e h - Aft r leaving Pontypridd t e Taff ﬂows south east.

’ a e t Taﬁ a and p ss s hrough Nantgarw , s Well , Ll ndaff ,

Cardiﬁ the e e ee e and to s a. B tw n four and ﬁve mil s north of Cardiff th e river escapes f rom the mountains through a pass of great boldness and b eauty .

On a the e On its left b nk are Slopes of C fn , on which

a d e e as e st n s the r stor d castl e of Castell Coch . This c tl

w as a e was so a a e built to gu rd this pass . Its sit f vour bl for this purpose that long b efore the Normans erected

e was e a e th ir stronghold , it occupi d by W lsh

e O e s e i fortr ss . pposit to Ca t ll Coch , on the r ght

a t he e the u b nk of riv r , rises Garth mo ntain , which

is a b e e e Tw o a e pl inly to se n for mil s around . l rg

he ill cairns stand on t summit of this b . In days when

' this country was invaded by enemies of diﬂzerent

i n e ﬁre the a e e nat o s , a b acon on Garth nsw r d others lit

e and e On on Penarth H ad C fn , and warned the

e inhabitants of their dang r .

’ Pentyrch and Taff s Well both stand on the slop es of

he a The e a e a t G rth . former nj oys v ry br cing air, and invalids from the town of C ardiff go there for t he

e e e e are a ben ﬁt of th ir h alth . Th re sever l medicinal

’

the . One e springs in neighbourhood at Taff s W ll ,

h i e h e o ne whic g v s t e place its nam , was at time famous

52 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

h for its cure of rheumatism . T e p eople of the district are e e th e w e e a e e ngag d at tin orks , colli ri s , qu rri s , lim

th e e kilns and brickworks of n ighbourhood . A very

ﬁne a t h e a a vi duct , built by B rry Railway Comp ny,

he a e e e and e t h e crosses t v ll y h r , conn cts Rhymn ey and

a e t he Sirhowy V ll ys with port of Barry .

N ear t he village of Pentyrch are the r emains of a

a a and e e a a n Rom n c mp s v r l b rrows or tumuli , o e of

e e e these b eing slightly moat d . Th r w ere iron works

at o ne e t he e e h ere tim , iron b ing obtain d from t he

e e a a e- e surrounding hills . S v r l c v lik openings ar e still

e e e th e w a to b e s en showing wh nc iron s dug . A littl e

e ea a o o ne the over a hundr d y rs g , of upper seams of coal under th e Garth took ﬁre and c ontinu ed to

e a e e e burn for several y ars . If stick w r forc d into the

e e ﬂ a e and ground for som little d pth , m s smoke would

e aris e from the hol e l ft b ehind . It is said that a hunter wh en crossi ng this district sank to his armpits

he d e t he into t groun , and was badly burn d by under

‘ ﬁre e e h e a a ground b for could be pulled out g in .

’ The l ast f ew miles of th e river s course lie in a ﬂat alluvi al plain on which stands the Cathedral city of

aff the a On t he ea Lland and Civic city of C rdiff . H th ,

the a e w as h j ust north of l tt r place , fought t e battl e b etween Iestyn ab Gwrgan and th e Norm ans under

it zh mon a a b e t he Robert F a . Ll nd ff is said to oldest h Bishopric in Britain . Cardiff is t e chi ef coal

h We a exporting port in t e world . sh ll l eave these

e the e e plac s for tim being , as th y are imp o rtant

e enough to hav chapters for themselves.

54 TH E STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

CHAPTER XI .

Th e Bas o f t h e af in T f .

—TH E V T . E II ALLE Y OF H CYN ON .

TH E e the e e Gla Cynon , lik most of long r riv rs of

a e e . e e the morg n , ris s in Br cknock It nt rs county

ea e e are a e e e e n r Hirwaun . H r l rg colli ri s , but form rly

w a e The s at iron s work d . ﬁrst iron work Hirwaun

e e e a e 1 666 and t he e a was e w r st blish d in , m t l work d

e m e the e e a from tim to ti until works w r ﬁn lly closed .

Th e town takes its nam e from Hirwaun Wrgan ’ — Gw rgan s Long M eadow which was gi ven as common grazing ground t o t he p e opl e of Glamorgan in t he 9 th

w r n a e G a e a . c ntury by g , Princ of Gl morg n At ﬁrst w the meadow w as ab out t en mil es long . Before it as e e all e ra the nclos d , thos who held g zing rights on

l ed e a a e e the s common th ir nim ls th r during ummer .

e e e e e e a Th y built littl huts to liv in , wh r th y m de

e and ee e th e a e all e butt r ch s . In utumn , th y w nt to

e e th ir hom s again .

w a the end t h 1 1 th e the e To rds of e c ntury , m adow was th e e e On e sc en of a hard fought battl . th o ne side w ere I estyn ab Gw rgan and a numb er of Norman

e and th e e w e e t he e alli s , on oth r r forc s of Rhys ab

Tewd wr c e D nevo r a e , Prin of y or South W l s . I estyn and e w e e t he his fri nds r victors , and a number of THE V ALLEY OF THE CYN ON 55

h e a t he cairns remain as monuments of t b ttle . In

s a e as e Gwaed The e district , uch n m s Ma s y ( Fi ld of

Fr w dr Ba e and Gadl s The Blood), Carn y y ( ttl Cairn), y (

e S a a a e a e ee Hall of Battl ), how th t m ny b ttl s h v b n

fought on this ground .

The Ab erdar e Hills lie b etw een t h e Cynon and the

e the a t he a Taff , whil on right b nk of Cynon long

e e a e as e Gwaw r range known in diff r nt pl c s C fn Rhos ,

and e Gw n ul e t he Mynydd Bach , C fn y g , divid it from

a a Rhondda Fe chan . From Hirw un it ﬂows lmost in a straight lin e in a south -easterly direct ion to Aber

e e the a . e ea a cynon , wh r it j oins T ff Aft r l ving Hirw un , the ﬁrst place of importance passed by th e river is

e a e a was a e a . e e e Ab rd r Fifty y rs ago , Ab rd r villag of

e and t a e no w a a e small siz impor nc , but it is l rg town

a T e w with n early inh bitants . h ﬁrs t orks at Ab erdare wer e t he Ab ernant and Llwydco ed Iron

e e in 1 7 w . s 8 5 e e e works Iron working c a d , wh n th r as a great strike in Glamorgan and t he town has since

e e e t he a a e a d p nd d mostly upon co l tr d for its w e lth .

e are s the t Ow n Ther brick work in , and iron founding

and brewing ar e also carri ed on .

a a e a a and a r Cwm m n , Ab r m n , Cwmb ch a e large

l a th e e On he mining vi l ges in n ighbourhood . t hills

a th e was e a m s bove town onc s all mona tic building, which is thought to have b een in some way connected

the e Penrh s e a with monast ry of y on C fn Rhondd . A

ran Penrh s e a road from y to this plac , p rt of which is

’ a still call ed the Monk s Ro d .

TH E V ALLEY OF TH E CYNON 57

Aberdare possesses many w ell built publi c build

e e e and ings , chi f among th m b ing the Town, Public ,

e a e e a a e e are t w o a Ab rd r M mori l H lls . Th r hospit ls t he Ab erdare Cottage Hospital and t he Hospital for

e e The me h as the Inf ctious Diseas s . for r support of t he e a w e t he a e t he e Of But f mily , hil l tt r is prop rty

the . a e e t he town In mus um , in conn ction with

’ e a e a e e e a s e Ab rd r Natur lists Soci ty , th r is pl ndid col

e e e a th e e a l ction of sp cim ns illustr ting g ology , bot ny ,

d a t h e Th e a an a . e n tur l history of district m rk t , built

1 8 53 e a t he e e in , is a larg building, st nding in c ntr of t h e n e a e e e ﬁne ex tow . Ab rd r poss ss s a very and

e e e e are t nsiv park , of which the townsp opl j ustly proud.

Mountain Ash stands a little ove r thr ee mil es lower

the e ed down riv r . It is surround by high mountains , which add considerably to an already picturesqu e

e e se a aﬁ o rd e t he sc n . The mount ins spl ndid views of

e he The w e vall y and t surrounding district . to n is w ll

d ha t w o a One an s . a e laid out, hospit ls is Cottag

e e e e e 1 8 9 6 and e Hospital , r ct d by Lady Ab rdar in , sinc

e e support d by voluntary contributions . The oth r is

h h an e e t e prop erty of t e town . It is Inf ctious Dis ases

1 a and w as 8 92 . Hospital , built in The Victoria P rk

e e s e e e 1 8 9 7 and Pl asur Ground , pr s nt d in by Lord

e a e are e a and e Ab rd r , tast fully l id out ov rlook the

t he e a the town . Coal mining forms chi f occup tion of h in abitants .

The r emains of Old workings in th e district tell

a w as e e e e e e e us th t iron onc xt nsiv ly work d h r , but

THE RH ONDDA V ALLEYS 61 of th e canal which afterwards was extende d to

a Merthyr Tydﬁl . From this pl ce a cut of t he canal

s u t he a e run thro gh Cynon V ll y to Ab erdare . To

e t he a w e Ab rcynon , too , ran railro d on which as tri d

ea t e th e ﬁrst st m locomo iv that ever went on rails . You Will read m ore about that engin e in a l ater

’ ea t h e are e and chapter . N r town Quak r s Yard

e a t h e e e t he ee e Tr h rris , latt r poss ssing d p st mining

a e shaft in South W l s .

CHAPTER XII .

The B o f asin t he Taf f .

—TH E O III . RH NDDA VALLEYS.

THE a tw o h e River Rhondd rises in streams , t Rhondda

a the e a t he IO es F wr and Rhondda F ch n , on S p of Craig

- - - he s. a t y Llyn and its outlying spur Cr ig y Llyn , in time wh en ice and snow were much more common than

e are e e — o r i ice th y now , and wh n glaci rs r vers of

e e e e e w re form d on the mountains of Wal s , pr v nted the glaci ers Of the Brecknock Beacons from sweeping

e the e e ov r middl portion of the county . Inst ad , it had

i a glaciers of its own , which in t me c rved out the

e a r and Rho nddas vall ys of the Af n , n , the , through

e i e which thes r v rs now ﬂow .

- - The spurs of Craig y Llyn run southward , and enclose within th em the valleys of the Rhondda Fawr

a t he e and the Rhondd Fechan. Those lying on l ft

the e e a bank of Rhondda Fechan w hav lready noted . 62 THE STORY o r GLA MORG A N

e ee the t wo Rho nddas es a e B tw n li long ridg , which ,

e a a a though known by differ nt n mes in v rious p rts , has t he e a e e a g ner l nam of C fn Rhondd . The Rhondda Faw r Valley is a scene of busy a ee e and ctivity It is about thirt n mil s long, runs in a south-easterly direction from Treh erbert to

Pontypridd . At Pontypridd it j oins the valley

— — Craig y Llyn Llyn Fawr The New W ater Storage

fo r the Rho ndda.

the Taft of . All along its course it is lined by

e e e e a e num rous colli ri s , church s , ch p ls , shops , schools ,

e a and public buildings of all kinds . C fn Rhondd

t he e s e rises on a t , while on the w st , or right

and bank , Mynydd y Cymmer , Mynydd Dinas , THE RH ONDDA V A LLE YS 63

Mynydd y Glyn sep arate t h e vall ey from t he basins of t he Afan and th e n r .

In spite of t he ugly app earanc e of the works and “ ” the a e e e e tips , v ll y has still som v ry pr tty spots , where clear and sparkling str eams w ander thro ugh

and e e e e ar e e e a wooded grassy d lls . Near Tr h rb rt s v r l

a e e e a . e e e sm ll , but v ry pr tty , wat rf lls Th s rang in

ei ee and as h ght from thirty to forty f t , are known

- the Blaenycwm and th e Blaen Rhondda Falls .

The Rhondda is a busy and thickly -p eopl ed district no w and a has ee e e , , from wh t b n discover d in r cent

a a e ee the e a e ye rs , it must h v b n hom of m ny p ople

s long b efore history b egan to b e written . The remain of what are thought to have b een prehistoric towns have been found on the mountain side above Blaen

t he e a a e . Rhondda, and on G lli Mount in bov Llwynypia

The old tow n above Blaen -Rhondda has b een

’ named Hen Dre r Mynydd The Old Town of the ” Mountain ; and th e n ame given to the other is ’ “ — T l e Of the Hen Dre r Gelli he O d Town of G lli .

’ two the Hen e t he , remains of Dr r Mynydd are

The e most p erfect and imposing . r mains consist of

e and a e e e e hut sit s , of burying pl c s nclos d within ston

e e es a circl s . In the form r , cooking ston and he rth

e a e and th e ston s were tr c d , signs of ﬁre in the form

e e e of charcoal wer e found . Ston s us d in hous hold

e - ea s and e work , ﬂint scrap rs , and arrow h d , many oth r

i e ﬂak es of ﬂint were also brought to light . The s t s

a e e e and enclosures h v since been cov red ov r, but

their positions are well known . 64 THE STORY o r GLAMORGAN

At Gelli broken pi eces of yellow and black pottery

e e e e e e were discovered . Th s w r found in diff r nt parts and d e e e f ar the e e in iff r nt siz s . By most int r sting discovery w as that of the broken bits of an anci ent

e n beaker or drinking cup . Enough of it r mai ed to

w e e show what it as lik wh n whole . It was of yellow r ed e and w as de e a attern e pott ry , corat d with p work d

View near the So urce of the Rho ndda.

- e had e a the in zig zag lines . Th se lines b en dr wn on soft clay by m eans of a pointed stick. ’ 1 90 0 A similar cup was found near St . Fagan s in ,

iﬁ e e and was presented to the Card Museum . L arn d people tell us that such cups were made by folks who lived in the district not l ess than y ears ago . At this time the p eopl e of the Rhondda were beginning THE RH ONDD A V ALLEYS 65 to use bronze axes and knives in place of those of

e e e e stone . No bronz implem nts wer found in thes

a ﬂ int s and e s e im le old towns , though m ny rud ton p ments were turned up . Numbers of cairns or mounds are to b e found on

e e e a ee e e . the mount ain sides . Som of th s h ve b n op n d

We o ne n as will only mention of them , that know

a the Crug yr Af an . This mound st nds on mountain

a and t he e the e between Cwmp rc sourc of Riv r Afan . ” e e f ew ea a e a When op n d a y rs ago ston cist, or buri l

he e es w a e . t e e ch t , s found insid Within cist w r piec s of bones and teeth which had the appearance of h aving been burnt .

The p eople who buried th eir dead in these mounds sometimes burned th e bodi es b efore placing the

h ad ee remains in the grave . This b n done with the

e e the ee he body buri d h re, and ashes had b n put into t

Be e the e a e e cist. sid s burnt r mains , pi c of an old

e ea was e ston w pon also found . It had b en formed from the fossil remains of the tail of an animal of

a e e e ee se very nci nt tim s , and may hav b n u d as an a e e rrow h ad or j av lin head .

Above Treorchy is an old camp which is known

a a e as M indy Camp . This camp was m d by the

B e e as a e - - a ritons to d f nd a p s c ll d Bwlch y Cl wdd , which leads fr om t he Rhondda Vall ey into that of t he

t he a the ﬂ n r . To it inh bitants of district ed on the a a an e and e e ppro ch of d g r , from it th y tri d to drive back any invader that might attempt to enter their

e l e - - b autifu vall y through Bwlch y Clawdd . 66 THE STORY o r GLAMORGAN

It may seem strange to us now to know that t he

e was e e ﬁne o ak ees Rhondda Vall y onc not d for its tr . “ e a h e saw a e a A writ r has told us th t grov of o ks , ” th e remarkable for their h eight . At beginning of

e e m en-o f —war e e e the last c ntury , wh n English w r mad

o ak the e t h e o ﬁ ere d e of , timb r of district was for sal as being Valu abl e timb er for t he Navy We do not know wh ether any Rhondda o ak trees were used in ” h a building t e famous Wooden w lls of Old England .

The e a e e e e tre s h v , how v r , long sinc gone , and the hillsides and l evel ground are stripped of

w as e e th eir l eafy covering . This don wh n so much charcoal w as wanted for t h e iron smelting works in

h and he f a the vall eys of t e Cynon t Taf . The pl tforms wh ere the wood was made into charco al may still b e

Tr l w a - ee ea ea a e e . s n n r Dinas , , Bl n Rhondda , and G lli Sometimes thes e pl atforms ar e known locally by th e nam e of HO1 0 Cols (Cinder Hollows).

The ﬁrst writer who prais ed t he natural b eauti es

t h e w as a a e e a e of Rhondda tr v ll r n m d Malkin . He

at t he e t he e ee e wrote b ginning of nin t nth c ntury . The following is a part of wh at h e wrote The

e e i e t he a ea Rhondda mak s f rt l v lley with its cl r, pure

e e e stream rolling ov r loos ston s . For mil es there is a luxuri anc e much b eyond what my entran ce

l ed e e . ea on this district me to xp ct The m dows ,

and e t he i r ich v rdant , with mounta ns the most wild

nd a u e e e e r a rom ntic s rrounding th m on v ry sid , a e in

ee e e t he highest degr pictur squ . The sides of

68 THE STORY o r GL AMORGAN

ra e e and a milkm en , g and bon m rchants , host of other ” noisy d ealers that trade brings in its train .

he a e e e ea So t v ll y , inst ad of b ing noted for its b uty , d a . e e an is no w chi eﬂy famous for its co l H r is found ,

t he e e a th e . mined , b st st am co l in world It is

a a e e a e ee esp ecially v lu bl for warships, b c us it is so fr

e and e ea and e e is from smok giv s so much h t , th r

always a great dem and for it .

Coal - mining has formed almost t he sole in dust ry of t he inh abitants for t he last thirty or forty

One a t h e m e years . has only to w tch nu rous trains

and w — e e e i passing up do n som mpty , and som w th — trucks loaded with th e preciou s min eral to see what an important part coal plays in the lives of the

e th e a w e e p eopl of Rhondd . As no iron as found h r , t he distri ct grew up long after th e towns of the iron

a producing ar eas . Thus it is that a great popul tion

has e a di sprung up , in a onc thinly popul ted strict ,

w the e a e n w ithin m mory of m ny p rsons o living .

t h e a e ee b e o ne e Though v ll y s ms to hug , straggling

a e a e a ate town , it is re lly divid d into numb r of sep r h townships . At the h ead of t e valley are t h e villages of d Bl n ae an ae c wm . ea t he e Bl n Rhondda y N r latt r plac e, t h e Rhondda and Swans ea Bay Railw ay runs und er th e mountain t hrough a tunn el that leads into the Afan

a e . e e e e an V ll y N xt follow Tr h rb rt d Treorchy , and

a c e a e e e t he in osy nook opposit the l tt r, n stl s growing

e a villag of Cwmp rc .

s a e e and e e Y tr d com s n xt, th n in succ ssion are

Pen rai Tr ealaw s Llwynypia, Tonypandy, yg g, , Dina , THE RH ONDDA VA LLEYS 69

t a a e e th e e a Por h , H fod , and , ﬁn lly , wh r riv r f lls

the T tf . Th e into a , Pontypridd Clydach Valley Opens into the Rhondda b etween Ll wynypia and

a a e t h e e e Tonyp ndy . In it is situ t d mining c ntr of

a Clydach V le .

e e e e a e ee At Ystrad , th r are s v ral sm ll ngin ring works . Th e old parish church of Ystradyfodwg stands almost

e the th e -e e on the edg of river . It is oldest stablish d

a i the a e e e pl ce of worsh p in v ll y , but is quit ov r

’ he e o f shadowed by t magniﬁc nt church St . Peter s a

e w The a short distanc a ay. district is lso well supplied

a with handsome Nonconformist pl ces of worship . Between Ystrad and Llwynypia is an Isolation Hos

and e e a a at . pital , th r is a Cott ge Hospit l Porth

Porth stands at the j unction of the Rhondda

e a e e and th e F ch n with her sist r str am , Hafod is j unc

t he a a a On t he e e tion of B rry R ilw y . h ights abov h n Llwynypia is the site of t e mon astery of Pe rhys.

u e w as th e e e This religious ho s built on spot wh r ,

e a ab Tewdw r w as according to som histori ns , Rhys

e t he Wr an It slain aft r battle of Hirwaun g . was built

e by Robert of Caen , the son of H nry I .

a e Ne r the site of the monast ry is a Holy Well , “ ’ e e the known as St. Mary s W ll In olden tim s ,

e e e e a s and wat r was suppos d to cur c rt in disea es , numerous pilgrims visited it in the hope of being

e e cured of their illn ss s .

An interesting inhabitant of the Rhondda Valley “ ” w an e xe e as Cadwg of the Battl A . We r ad in an “ ” old writing that Cadwgan of the Battl e A x e live d 70 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

’ in Glyn Rhondda during the tim e of Owen l ndw r s

’ a and w a e the w rs , s one of that chieftain s captains ov r men a a e dw n a e he of th t v l . When Ca ga w ent to b ttl , used to w alk about the valley sharpening his battle ax e as he e w nt along .

On s a O e account of thi h bit , w n would call to “ Cadw an a w n h Th e C d a t a e ax e . g , g , whet y b ttl

e a Cad w an e mom nt th t g was h ard to do so , all living

e s men e a e a p r ons , both and wom n , would g th r round “ e a da the him in battl array. From th t y to this , battl e shout of the men of Glyn Rhondda has b een

‘ ’ Cadw an e a e and e g , wh t thy b ttle ax ; at that word th y ” as e all sembl as an army .

e a a The Rhondda F chan V lley , also , is mining d it is a e as t he istrict, but not so l rg or populous

the ea t he a e the Rhondda Fawr . At h d of v ll y is

a n w e t h e ee pr ctically e township of Ma rdy, str ts of

ar e e a e e e which w ll rrang d and built . Low r _w ll the are e T lo rsto wn Wattst o w n down river F rndale, y , ,

Yn shir and y .

Most of the townships have institutes and librari es which are well stocked with books of all

e are e kinds . These institut s generally connect d with the a and ar e a e t v rious works , m inly k p up by money

Th e e obtained from t he workmen themselves . vall ys

u - - a e new e e are determined to b e quite p to d t . A l ctric

a e e. e e tr mway is b ing mad This, wh n ﬁnish d , will

u n a e ea r nthe l e gth of both v lleys , and will prov of gr t service to the inhabitants of the various towns . THE BA SIN OF THE ELY 71

, The water supply is also to b e improved . Llyn

the a e a - - ar e Fawr and Llyn Fach , at b s of Cr ig y Llyn ,

e e e e t he e ee e to b e made into r s rvoirs , wh r wat r n d d for

b e e Th e e b e a e the district will stor d . wat r will c rri d into t he valley by means of a tunnel cut through the mountain .

CHAPTER XIII .

i f The Bas n o t h e Ely .

TH E Ely River rises a short distance north of the

r a e t he mining village of Tony ef il . Its sourc lies in high ground that separates the h ead waters of the

r r th e a a e th e e n f om Rhondd V ll y , in n ighbour

f f ew e it e hood o Hafod . For a mil s ﬂows in a south rly

e n t he at a dir ction amo g hills , but Ll ntrisant runs through a pass of great b eauty and boldn ess into the

i the On Maelw i upper port on of Vale . Garth g , wh ch

s th e a the ar e ee e stand on right b nk of river, thr hug

e are e a cairns . Th se suppos d to m rk the site Of a ﬁerce

e e e e and a battl , fought b tw en the W lsh the S xons , the

e e ea On dead b ing buri d ben th them . the hills on th e

e t he e a e oth r bank of riv r is larg Roman camp .

B an a the y me s of the p ss , through which Ely e lo w nters the ground, invadin g armi es were able to

e e w a t he t he mak th ir y into hilly district of north . The pass also made it possibl e for any Welsh who had been driven to the hills to sweep down on enemies 72 TH E STORY OF GL AMORGAN

a had e e th e a the can th t s ttl d in l nd to south . It be seen that t he d efence of this pass w as an important

a e . The e had a e e e and a t he m tt r W lsh fortr ss h r , fter

a e e e Norm ns had conqu r d the county , th y , in a very s e and o ne hort tim . took this built of their strong

a the c stles on spot .

From Llantrisant th e Ely ﬂows j ust south of the range of hills that marks the hill district from t he

a e e e a ea e e V l . Its cours is gen r lly in an st rly dir ction , ’ h a e a a t e . but ft r passing St . F g n s it turns more to south The river ﬁnally empties itself into the Bristol

' Chann el n ear t he mouth of the Taﬂr and at th e foot of

a The e ea e th e e are Pen rth H ead. low r r ch s of riv r in a and ea e w s broad b utiful vall y , through hich it wind its w a a e e a e a e e e y in v ry r m rkabl m nn r . Aft r r aching the plain it ﬂow s through ground so l evel that it has

c to wind about in all directions to ﬁnd a hann el . From Llantrisant to near Cardiff its windings are so

e u e e num ro s that it is cross d by bridg s , carrying the

ea e a no e s e e . Gr t W stern R ilway , l ss than ixte n tim s Only two brooks worth m entioning help to swell t he

‘ a e o f e the and w t rs the Ely . Th y are Clun , or Clown , t he Dowlas .

Th e most important town in the basin of the

e e t he riv r is Llantrisant, a v ry old town built upon

h a brow of t e hill . Its high position gives splendid

e t he e e as the e e vi w of Val , which xtends as far y can

Th e was e reach to the south . town onc a borough and e e the e mark t town of importanc . It was chi f

the Misk n e e th e a ia town of manor of y , wh r m nor l THE BASIN OF THE ELY 73

e e e and a e e t he the courts w r h ld , its c stl form d gaol for

a The a f m nor . town is still j oined with C rdif and

e e o ne e a e Cowbridg in s nding m mber to Parli m nt.

The e e a h mark t has d clined of l te years , t at of

Pontypridd having taken much of its trade . Some of its streets still retain traces of the age of

h e e are a e e h e old t town , as th y p v d with cobbl s in t

w a ea e e fashioned y . Iron and l d were worked h r f e e e s rom very early tim s . A writ r named L land state

a e e e e 1 4 The th t ironworks w r in xistenc in 5 0 . town no w et e the g s its w alth chieﬂy from tinplate works , w e the . colli ries , and brick orks of district About

e s a e Llanharran thr e mile away is the growing vill g of ,

e e e e e e wh r th r are collieries , a st am j oin ry , and tin

e plat works .

Llantrisant Castl e w as formerly a place of great s e e tr ngth and importanc . It was second only to f h t e e . Cardif during Norman p riod Its position , com

a t he ea n m nding pass l di g from the Vale to the hills ,

e ea e O a f ew a s no w e . mad it of gr t valu . nly w ll r main The ﬁrst castl e built here is said to have been the

Gwr an i e w work of g , Pr nc of Glamorgan , but it as

- e a r e i the . r p ired , if not bu lt, after Norman Conquest

he wa d It is not known when t castle s estroyed, but

’ most likely this took place during Owen Glyndwr s raid into the county .

e e a he e P t rston is small village on t Ely , som t wo e a e e w as a mil s from Ll ntrisant . H r nother

s f ew e Norman Ca tle , of which but very walls r main .

t e b O e w who he e I was destroy d y w n Glynd r , be ad d 74 THE STORY o r GLAMOR GAN

h e was e i its owner, as a strong support r of K ng

V O w as . Two Henry . , against whom wen ﬁghting and a half mil es further

’ s west is St. Fagan , a place of much

new interest . A cas tl e w as built in 1 578 upon the site of a former Nor

e m an o n . This now forms the Welsh home of the Earl

ea of Plymouth . N r

’ a w a s St. Fag n s fought one of the hardest c o n t e s t s t h a t e v e r t o o k p l a c e o n W e l s h

tin soil . This was 1 4 the year 6 8 .

Just outside Car

A V e w o n the El . diff is the village i y

e o f E l y , w h r e are a e a The o l rg p per works and two breweries. wo d pulp from which the pap er is made is import ed at

e a a he t he P n rth Dock , which st nds on t mouth of Ely , a e a ff a e e is bout four mil s from C rdi . M rk t gard ning

a ie e e The a Via c rr d on xtensiv ly at Ely . Roman Ro d ( “ Ju lia) crossed t he river h ere at a ford called Rhyd ” y Sarn A Roman Villa was found on t he Race

76 THE STORY OF GL AMORGAN signal ﬁre from the headland was answered from near

th e e Castell Coch and from e Garth . Th s sent the new s on to the north and west of th e county until all th e land w as aroused . The Normans are said to have landed h ere wh en

e e a e e a th y cam to ssist I styn , Princ of Gl morgan ,

T w r e a e re- a e against Rhys ab e dw . Her lso th y emb rk d

e e e on their homeward j ourn y , but w re r called by

as. Croml ech at St. Nichol

Einion w ho e . , had quarr lled with Iestyn In the

e a e e a w as e n r ign of Eliz b th , P n rth suspect d of bei g the resort Of pirates Who infested th e Bristol Channel at a The e a th t time . villag of Din s Powis, with its

e . castl , ﬁrst built by Iestyn , is in the neighbourhood

c e i s n Go luch So also is St . Ni holas , wh re D uffry ,

One e e which contains several Croml echs . of th s is among the largest in the Kingdom . THE RIVER EWENNY 77

Q MM QONC

P u k e -c l

ad o -u Ew e nn Pr o r y i y .

CHAPTER XIV .

Th e i e r nn R v Ew e y .

THE e a a t r ib ut ar t he r Ew nny is re lly y of n , but w e e e a e th e a a shall d al with it s p rat ly from m in stre m .

The e e the s a Maelw Ew nny ris s in hills we t of G rth g, and a w e ﬂows in esterly dir ction . It rounds C efn

Hir d ea the e oe . g , and ﬂows n r bas of St Mary Hill .

f o r n . a e a a a a St M ry Hill is not d in Gl morg n its n u l fair ,

th e which is held in August . Most of farm ers of t he county and many of the othe r working classes make ” a a e it point to go to Ff ir y Mynydd , as it is call d ,

ne e s if they can possibly do so . It combi s busin s with

he a e e e a e e e t . O e as pl asur , and is gr at v nt in V l nc p t

the e e and a e a St . Mary Hill riv r ﬂows due w st , , ft r

w ea e e e e t e the slo and p c ful j ourn y , mpti s i s lf into

- e the ea n r about three quarters of a mil from s .

a e e a e Pencoed is a small and sc tt r d town , or r th r

a e t h e e f ew e e . vill g , on Ew nny, a mil s from its sourc I The place is on t he Great Western Railway . ts TH E RIVE R EWENNY 79

a t who e 9 0 0 are e e e inh bi ants , numb r about , chi ﬂy ngag d at e e and a e and the brickworks , colli ri s , colli ry tools

a e a e tr ms manufactory . A Calvinistic M thodist Ch p l at e e t 1 771 a b e o ne Of t he P nco d , ﬁrs built in , is s id to

s ea oldest Nonconformist Churche in Wales . N r

‘ e e Llan rallo as P nco d is g , or Coychurch , it is known in

h d t he English . In t e churchyar of Parish Church is

a a and a ea e e . Norm n cross , one of still rli r p riod

e th e r t h e Shortly b fore it ﬂows into n , n Ewenny glides by the village a d Priory of Ewenny .

The was e a 1 1 40 -5 a e d e Priory found d bout , by M uric

e t he a e who t he Londr s , son of Willi m de Londr s , built

e O Th e e a n ighbouring castl e of gmore. Priory r m ined in existence from its foundation down to the Dissolu

h is tion of t e Monasteri es under H enry VII I . It con sidered o ne of the best exampl es of monastic buildings in Wales , if not in the whole kingdom . 1 0 6 Malkin , writing in 8 , states that this Priory is the most p erfect exampl e of an original monastic

e a e . e s e st blishm nt in the kingdom It is w ll pre erv d , — t he whole of t he anci ent monastic church a cross o ne—e h e e e i The xisting with t xc ption of one l mb . whole of the buildings w as surrounded by a high and

de the strong wall fortiﬁ ed with towers . They ma structure a stronghold as well as a religious building .

a th e tc a The chief g te , por ullis ch mber , and much of

- the e i . wall , still remain in a w ll preserved cond tion The gateway forms the chi ef entrance t o the residence

se w he e i i of the pre nt o ner of t Priory, situat d w th n t he grounds . 80 THE STOR Y OF a GLA MORGA N

T a e e a he rem ins of Ew nny Abbey , though , p rh ps

e e e s from their r tir d position not so w ll known , posses an interest f ar in excess of that which attaches either

ea and a a w e e te e to Neath or Margam . N th M rg m r al r d and e t he a ca e b e add d to , until origin l could s rc ly

ll h e e a e a e . e a t tr c d But Ew nny , through ag s , m intain d

h e t he strength and solidity of t e early Norman styl .

e a e e t e e e a Mor over, it is in b tt r s at of pr s rv tion . In

a t h e a e the has e f c , t n v of old priory church nev r

e e b e a a e hi e c as d to pl c of wors p , a circumstanc which can b e said of very f ew of th e grand old monastic establishments which suffered from th e reforming ” ee e zeal of the ﬁft nth c ntury .

The old monks knew h o w to build their monas t erie e ea n e e e s in plac s pl sant a d conveni ent . H r th y

e ea built their Priory near a cl ar str m full of ﬁsh , in

a ar which trout , s lmon , and sewin e still to b e caught .

e e e and All round wer gre n m adows , thick woods ,

h s Th e e fruitful orc ard . f rtile district surrounding the monastery remains as fruitful and b eautiful now

was as it in monastic days .

On the e e a e e e south rn sid of w dg of land , form d

t he e e the e the r by conﬂu nc of Ew nny with n ,

t h a e e e s and t e ruins of the C stl of Ogmor . Its sit was

t he e e e the a O e very suitable for d f nc of M nor of gmor ,

th e which belonged to the De Londres . Not only did

’ castl e guard the district from t he inr oads of t h e

b ut a e e e th e e la Welsh , it lso d f nd d passag of ford a he a cross t n r at this point . This ford rem ins in THE RIVER EWE NNY 8 1 a numb er of stepping stones which enable p eople to

the e cross riv r .

de es who e e e s William Londr , r c iv d this lord hip at t h e e a e th e t e a Conqu st , built his C stl on si of

The ee British fortress . k p of this castle is still

' Th e ee w as a s uare o standing , though in ruins . k p q

he h e t h e e o ne t . , and stood on hig st point of sit Around it w as a court contained within a st rong

a and a e w ll mo t . A s cond court stood without , sur

1 9 t h e e w a a e a a . 0 4 s e round d by w ll In , castl ttack d

e he a De by the W lsh under t Norm n lord of Coity .

e w as at t he e a e Londr s away tim , but his const bl ,

e was a e e successf u llv all Arnold Butl r , bl to r sist

a e a e t he s . e e tt mpts to c ptur fortre s In cours of tim ,

e h e the castl e b ecame the poss ssion of t Crown . When

e b e a e e e it ceas d to inh bit d is not known , n ith r is it

nd w a e known when a by whom it s d stroy ed . This

a e e e a s and e o ne c stl is sp ci lly intere ting, its ke p is of the very f ew exampl es of pure early Norman work i n this country. Ogmo re C astle .

CHAPTER XV .

r o The Basin o f t h e n r Og mo re .

THE n r and its tributari es drai n t he centre of

The e r se e th e county . riv r n it lf ris s in t wo

r and the r e heads , the n Fawr n F chan , on

w r e H opposite sides of Mynydd y G y . C fn irgo ed

the a t he e B separates basin from th t of Ew nny . e twee n t he h ead waters of th e n r and t h e Ely lies

ae e d a e Mynydd y G r , whil Myny d Ll ng inor stands

e t he r and a the Ga betw en n its tribut ry rw . On Mynydd y Gaer are th e re mains of a large square

84 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

the a e ee t he Ll nﬁ and t he a it from Af n . B tw n y G rw i Mo el iliau and a s s Mynydd g , Mynydd Marg m tands

he The b etwee n it and the lowl ands bordering t coast .

ﬂ w h a a a and t e a e river o s t rough f irly bro d fer il v ll y ,

h r e and empti es its waters into t e n b low Tondu . This district must h ave b een the scen e of many ﬁ erce

T wn Ha Maeste . o ll, g

e -of battles , as num rous camps British , Danish , and Ro man origin are to b e found on the surrounding

a e e e hills. A l rg numb r of mounds show wher the

e e e e d ad w r buri d .

Th e most important town in the Llynﬁ Valley is

ae e e a a . M st g , which has ov r inh bit nts It is a

a t he e long , str ggling town , built on both sides of riv r .

a t he a e e h Co l mining, and m nufactur of cok , form t e THE BA SIN OF THE OGMORE 8 5

e e a chief industri es . Th r is a sm ll iron foundry , and ,

a e e e a . a short distance aw y , ther was onc a wooll n f ctory

e e w as e e e e Formerly , th r a large iron works h r , wh r

a t he e t he eight furnaces were in bl st , but whol of

and e works is now dismantled . Bricks tinplates wer also made .

C efn Ydfa Ruins

Maesteg is in the old manor known as Tir Iarll

’ a and t he a a (E rl s Ground), in p rish of Ll ngynwyd ,

“ n Blw f The l a Iarll was Yr He y ( O d P rish). Tir n o ne of t he manors kept by Fit zhamo for himself . This w as b ecause l arge quantiti es of game were found

e e i e e an Fi zhamo n e th r n the old n tim s , d t , lik all 8 6 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

was the a c Normans , fond of hunting . In p rish chur h “ of Llangynwyd the famous Maid of Cefn Ydf a lies

e and her e e s in th e buri d , po t lov r , Will Hopkin , lie

a a e Ydf a th e e h churchy rd ne r by . C fn , hom of t e

ai a e t h e a e t he Ll ﬁ M d , is on hill ov rlooking v ll y of yn .

ea e Yd f a B a an are a N r C fn , on Mynydd id , number of

e e e e me entr enchm nts of consid rabl d pth . Some n think

a e e w as 522 t he a a e et ee th t h r fought , in , f mous b ttl b w n

t he a the a e King Arthur and S xons , known as b ttl of

a n Mount B do .

About h alf a mil e from th e vill age is t he Castl e of

an . e w as it Ll gynwyd Wh n it built is not known . In w as d e e t he a born Edmund Mortim r, third E rl of

h The a e was a a o ne and e ema n Marc . c stl sm ll , som r i s th at have bee n unearth ed Show it to b e of thirteenth

e a e de a m a 1 3 c ntury d t . It is surroun d by o t. In 0 7 it w as e e b y le e en e th e a e s iz d Hugh D sp s r , f vourit of

a w as e a e Edw rd II . , but it soon r t k n by its rightful

e own rs .

a d t he Ll nﬁ ee e Tondu st n s on y , thr mil s north of

B d e d t he ea e e a ri g n . It is a j unction on Gr t W st rn R il

t Ll nﬁ O e and a a e e e way for he y , gmor , G rw v ll ys . Th r

d e e e are a e e ee e e an e . l rg ngin ring works h r , s v ral colli ri s

‘ e a e an e e e e Cok e is mad in l rg qu titi s . Form rly th r

e e e e e are no w e . w er xt nsiv ironworks , but th se clos d A b erkenﬁg is a vill age which is really a continuation

t s w a e of Tondu . I population ith th t of Tondu numb rs

s was a e some inhabitant . Tondu , years ago , n m d

- - el Ton Ithel Ddu (The Sward of Black Ith ). It was so

8 8 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

nd e . e e a N wcastle It is in the c ntr of a farming district ,

n a e e e e B e a d its m rk t is w ll att nd d . From ridg nd the

l nﬁ O e and a a o ff L y , gmor , Garw R ilw ys branch from

i and e h e e e the ma n line, her is t t rminus of the Val of

Th e are Gl amorgan Railway . industri es of the town

e t h e a a e e e br wing, iron founding, and m nuf ctur of l ctric

n and a B light co duits f rming implem ents. rickmaking and e are e and at e e e lim burning carri d on , Ew nny th r

a e is pott ry .

Ewenny pottery has b een in e xistenc e for many

ear Ll est r i Pridd are e e y s , and Ewenny m ntion d in the old songs sung by farmh ands to the oxen when

Red ea e a e h ploughing . rth nw r is t e chi ef form of

e a e a a pottery produc d , but of l t ye rs rtistic vases , cups ,

a . e e a e a e j rs , etc , cov r d with p culi r green glaze , hav

bee . e e e e l and n made Th s r ally look v ry we l , command

a sa e . zThe e e the e ar e and ready l kiln wh r articl s burnt,

the e e are t he e some of articl s mad , shown in pictur .

uar ella a t a At Q , about half mile from the own , good quality fr eeston e is qu arri ed . This stone is in great

e e a e e d mand for d cor tiv building purpos s. It is much used in the erection and restoration of public buildings in Glamorgan .

At Merthyr M awr are the r emains of ancient l ead

e ar e e and zinc min s, which suppos d to have been

e a e e ea e e work d in Rom n , or v n rli r tim s . There ar e a o f ea e e e lso many things gr t int r st , sp eci ally a

a and e number of old c rved inscribed ston s . Ewenny

a s e Priory is within short di tanc of the town , and so is

s . Old a e o f h r n Coity Ca tle C stl , w ich there a e ow no THE BASIN OF THE OGMORE 8 9

e a was r m ins , built by Simon , son of Sir Payne

i e Turberv ll , of Coity . It is supposed that o ne of the same family built t he New Castl e upon a commanding

e w e e a th e h ight in the st rn p rt of town . A beautiful l ate Norman gateway and a portion of the outer wall are e the only r mains of this castl e .

e o f the Kn ts o f St . J n B r d e nd . Hospic igh oh , i g

On t he steep road l eading up to N ewcastl e Church

e a is a Hospice of the Knights of St . John of J rus lem .

a a e e e a It is in good st t of pr s rv tion , and is still

a e e e e th e inh bit d . Thes houses w r built by Knights of

a e e e a e e O a St . John as pl c s wh r tr v ll rs could bt in food

nd The e e the es a lodging . prop rty b longing to Hospic w as taken from them by the Crown in the r eign of

e a e the e Que n Eliz b th . North of the town is Angl ton

and th e w llt is Asylum , Parc G y Asylum on a height

the e n r k above l ft bank of the river . O the rive ban 9 0 THE STORY OF G LAMOR GAN n ear Angl eton Asylum is the ruin of an old iron

w e e e e e e . furnac . It is ov rgro n by a hug sycamor tr

was b ut o e It is not known by whom it built, most pe pl

e h e h a beli eve it to hav b een t work of t e Rom ns .

From Bridgend th e river ﬂows in a south -westerly

i e i and a e a e a ee and h d r ct on , ft r j ourn y of bout thr a alf miles ente rs t he sea b etween th e high downs of Sutton on its left bank and t he sand dun es of N ewton on its

t he e e t . ea S e righ N r its mouth , on a loping cr st on dg

t he a e Cantl est o ne Cant elu esto n of s nd dun s , is or p

a e The e a e a e e C stl . r m ins consist of a larg squ r tow r

t a e wi h portions of more mod rn building .

Th e n r w as consid ered o ne of th e best salmon An e a e and a t . riv rs i n W l s , ﬁsh is still c ugh in it old ” ca e Th e e a e e h o w book ll d Angl r in W l s , t lls us they

e ea he the a e us d to sp r t ﬁsh by night in Sp wning s ason ,

e th e S e wh n ﬁsh ran up in hoals , tw nty or thirty

e the b ed the e e s tog ther , rooting up of riv r lik hog ,

e e i e c is Anoth r book stat s as follows The r v r , whi h

a a a e and at e s sh llow, cont ins numb r of pools , its s a ide end S e e e the a e e e pr ads its lf ov r s nd . N ar this th r is a

e the t pool , wh re salmon struggle much , and of en try to es a e e e e c p ov r the shallows. Dogs are train d to seiz

m are e e th e a e a the , and most cl v r at work , but le v n ” r he ugly ma k in t back of the ﬁsh .

en Abera o n and w mavo n w t the Cwma o Scene betw e v C , i h v n a k n th stance St c i e di . THE BA SIN OF THE AFAN 9 3

i e ea e e the Dinas . In ts low r r ches t he riv r rec ives:

e Of t he Fedw the Gwenff rwd a a wat rs , or Af n F ch , and t h Ff r wdw l Th e e lt . e y last, as its nam shows , is a wild

a e mount in torr nt .

Th e Afan Vall ey li es in the coal mining district. Here are A b erg wynﬁ and Cymmer in th e Af an Vall e y

the o rw and Glyncorrwg in C r g Vall ey . Coal mining is

the e a almost sole industry , but som qu rrying of building

e e t he ston and sandston slabs is carri ed on . Lower in

e e e ar e e e a e e . vall y is Pontrhydyfen , wh r s v r l colli ri s

a Cwmavon is a village about two miles from Port T lbot , and a e e and is lmost ntirely occupi ed by copp r, iron s ee a e w e e n t he e t l , and tinpl t orks . Copp r r ﬁ ing is chi f

th e i a e 40 0 50 0 e industry of v ll g , from to tons b ing

e e ee r ﬁn d w kly .

e as am e e th e Ab ravon , its n t lls us , stands on mouth B he a ea a . of the river , on t shores of Sw ns y The town

e u i is has a b a t f ul stretch of sand on its foreshore . It

ee e e t and e ada e a thr mil s in l ng h , is w ll pt d for b thing

a f e ea e e a e and bo ting purposes . O lat y rs th s s nds hav b ecome a favourite resort of the inhabitants of t he

e - e a has colli ry districts of Mid Glamorgan . Ab r von

e a e e 1 1 58 e e e e a be n a corpor t town sinc , wh n it r c iv d

a e Le sh o n ab a . e e ch rt r from y Morg n , its lord B sid s

e a a a t he b ing municip l borough , it also forms p rt of

a ea i e one e e Sw ns D strict of Boroughs , r turning m mb r

a a e e the a e to P rli m nt . It is a mark t town ; m rk t being

a e o ne e e . e a v ry busy . an d w ll patronis d Ab r von

a a a t h e is growing m nuf cturing town , works comprising Scene In t he A fan Va e abo e Po nt r d fe n ll y v hy y .

THE BA SIN or THE AFAN 9 7

e a e s seaport . Wh n this pl c consisted of dock only, it

u h e was known as A b ermo t or Ab ravon Port . Under

a e e 1 835 w as an Act of Parli m nt , pass d in , the name

o a a changed to Port Talb t . The popul tion is bout

e e e t o a u e e The docks giv mploym nt n mb r of th se ,

and many of the others are engage d at th e iron works

n e a and rolli g mills , collieri s , foundry , and tinpl te h works of t e district.

The Harbour of Port Talbot covers an area of 250

e 1 1 4 are e th e acr s , of which tak n up by two docks .

e an e a e t he a Ther is ntr nc lock to docks , and lso a

a e ma e a e graving dock where dam g d ships y be r p ir d .

Th e a e ea ea e e e h rbour is k pt cl r by m ns of dr dging, ls the shifting sand would soon ﬁll up the entrance

a Two e a e e ch nnel . long br akw ters prot ct the ntrance

the a e e to docks . Port T lbot is well plac d in ord r to

a e the a a th obtain a good tr d in export tion of co l . All e

a e a e and the district round it is ng g d in coal mining, Port Talbot Railway h as Opened up communication h Ll ﬁ h with t e yn and t e Garw Vall eys .

Th e docks are provided with all the latest ma

e t he a a a chin ry for r pid lo ding and unlo ding of ships . Th e port is o ne of the foremost ports on the shores

t e of the Bristol Channel . I is worthy of not that Port Talbot is th e only Glamorganshire port wh ere the

e ee s a e The imports xc d the export in v lu . latest returns show that nearly one and a half million pounds worth of goods of all kinds were brought into n the port i one year. The exports f or the same time

mo t o i v a un ed t n alue. H 9 8 THE STOR Y OF GLAMOR GAN

The e a e th imports includ vari ty of goods , e chi ef

ar e t ar h as- a e n of which , pitc , g co l , copp r a d oth er

e ee a e and w c or s , st l b rs , pig iron , timb r pit ood , bri ks ,

S a e and e e a e a e l t s , g n r l m rch ndis . You will notice that most of th es e articl es are re quire d for use i n th e ih d ust ries a e t he e Th c rri d on in n ighbourhood . e exports

n a e a e e c e co sist mostly of co l , cok , p t nt fu l , opp r,

e e n ee a a e e nd sp lt r , iro , st l , r ils , c stings , tin , t rn a black

a ﬁrecla e e m e pl te , y , and g n ral erchandis .

CHAPTER XVII .

Th ale e h e V o f N at .

TH E Val e of N eat h extends in a south - w esterly direc tion from th e h ead of th e N eath or N edd Ri ver for a

e a ee e The e e di st anc of bout thirt n mil s . riv r N dd is form ed by the conﬂu enc e of m any mountain streams t he Perdd n He st e Mellt e a d e — c y , p , , n N dd Whi h j oin

e t h e e t h e The a e th eir wat rs on bord rs of county . v ll y through w hich the rive r ﬂows vari es considerably in w i it a h e e a dth , but follows a much str ig t r cours th n

h e The e e most of t e vall ys of Glamorgan . sc n ry throughout t he val e is of the most romantic d escrip “ tion and its l pes are sacr ed to t al es of Y Tylw yth

a a a e a e ea Teg (F iri es). It is s id th t in this gl n Sh k sp re

’ ” h th e ea laid t e scen e of e Midsumm r Night s Dr m .

Th e rive r enters t he county near Pont-N eath

u n -N - e its Va ghan (Po t edd c han), and h re has on

1 0 0 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

“ e the e e Of a the l ft tow ring h ight Cr ig y Llyn , King

’ ” m a a of Gl a org n s mountains . Following its l eft b nk ar e t he hills that s epar ate it from t he vall ey of t he

' a w e it s are th e S e Of ef n Af n , hil on right lop s C Hir

d w lie e w e e and a t he Fynyd , hich b t n it its tribut ry

i Ove th e w a e ran t he Ol D ula s. r bro of this r ng d

a a Sa m Helen c e t he a Rom n ro d , whi h j oin d st tion

d m ea w a t e e e d N i a (N th), ith no h r in Br conshir . Mynyd M arch How e ll separates t he D ulais from t he Taw e and t h e a a t e Of t he e e Clyd ch ( no h r tributary N dd), whil Mynydd Dru mman stands b et ween the Clyd ach and

nd t he a n he a e t h e e a t . N dd , b si of T w

Th e Val e Of N eath ow es its fam e chi eﬂy to t he falls

it u e e e e lie t e situ ate d on s pp r wat rs . Most of th s ou sid

e are e ea and are e t h e county . Th y v ry b utiful visit d by

e li l arge numb ers of tourists . S ev ral falls e within t he

and ar e a e t h e ea . The county, j ust bov town of N th

e a ar e t he Cledd au a a a M lin Court F lls on , sm ll tribut ry, and h ere t h e water desc ends from a h eight of eighty

The Rh eo lau a and t he a ar e feet . F lls Gnoll F lls on

h . e e re a e e e t e N edd Th s a sm ll but v ry pictur squ .

Though t he falls have given to th e Val e its chie f

am e m a e a a a ea f , it has ny oth r n tur l attr ctions of gr t

h as a a e ea . b uty It brupt mount ins , hug cliffs ,

e e e e e es grot squ rocks , wood d gl ns , rustic bridg s , dingl , and e — all a t e ea bosky d lls , in short , th t contribu s b uty ” a t On e e i e t he e to wild dis rict. ith r s d of val are

Of e and as ea — - a views rar surp sing b uty tree cl d hills ,

the i i e looking down on fair r ver, with gl mpses her and i i there through rugged passes nto charm ng glens. THE VALE o r N EATH 1 0 1

Low er down in its cours e th e n ature of th e sc en ery

a e e e a and e S ch ng s , but v n co l tips oth r disﬁguring ights fail to rob t h e val e of all its b eauty until the n eighbour

h w e e e e the hood o f t e to n of Neath is r ach d . H r clouds of smoke from the iron and copp er works have taken

v m th e the away all b eaut from the scen e . Fro town to

the e e th e a e the e e mouth of riv r , ven w t r in riv r its lf is discoloured by th e r efus e from t h e m any works .

e e e ea e t he e a e B for Briton F rry is r ch d , N dd p ss s through a bold pass which would b e b eautiful were it

ha e not t t it is almost always covered by smok .

ea a e e t he e e e the Pont N th V ughan , wh r riv r nt rs

nt th e e n e e e u r t t t h e cou y, is c tr wh r to is s go to Visi

e e h e e the Mellte sc n ry in t e surrounding district . H r and the e e n t e Th e a e N dd F chan j oi h eir wat rs . l tt r brook

e h h e is cross d by t e bridge which gives t e pl ace its nam . — The village lies in t wo counties t he w estern portion

e n b i g in Glamorgan and th e eastern in Brecknock . Within a radius of thr ee mil es are no l ess than thirtee n w e a e f e ee . at rf lls , ranging i n h ight rom forty to ighty f t “ ” “ The a are th e a a th e e most f mous L dy F ll , Upp r , ” “ e and e Cl n w n a and th e er Middl , Low r y g y F lls , Upp ” and e ilh Th e e ilhe ste a Low r C epst e Falls . Upp r C p F ll throws a stream of w ater so far forward that visitors c an cross from o ne b ank to t he oth er und ern eath the falls .

“ N ear the village is what w as onc e a famous Logan

e e a e a e a or rocking ston . Som p ss rs by displ c d it bout

- 1 850 and all a e e e a e . , tt mpts to re bal anc it hav f il d

’ The Din as Rock (Craig y Ddinas) stands in th e D evil s 1 0 2 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

e the c a e and a e Gl n in distri t . It is hug lmost p r

e ndic ular a e e 1 70 e e and 4 p m ss of lim ston f t high , 70

ee a e t he a Th f se e e . e f t bov l v l summit , though dif icult

ea a S e e th e a e ea to r ch , ffords pl ndid vi ws of V l of N th .

ea t he a c i i f t he N r Din s Ro k , r s ng upright rom gl en is a

’ a as wa ae The e Bo w cr g known B r M n ( Ston ). It is

The Lad Fall G n Neat . y , ly h

’ t en also call e d the Wi tch es Chair . This dis rict in old ti mes w as suppos e d to b e a favourite haunt o f t he fairi es and not SO m any ye ars ago p eopl e lived wh o said t h ey had s ee n th ese littl e folk . Th ere are se veral c aves i n th e li m estone rocks of

The Mellte w o ne th e n eighbo urhood . ﬂo s through

the su ch cave rn for a distance of 250 yards . South of

1 04 THE STORY o r GLAMo -RGA N village is Craig y Llyn which raises its h ead 1 9 71 fe et

e n r w e — aw above the s a l evel . O it a e t o l ak s Llyn F r

a e a ar e e e w a and Llyn F ch , whos b nks bord r d ith m rsh h l and . Silica and limestone quarries provide t e chief

the e t a ne industry of n ighbourhood , and r m li s from

a e a th e ea the qu rri s c rry produce to Glyn N th . A short distance b elow Pont N eath Vaughan is

he Glyn N eath . H er e is t he northern terminus of t

a e a The e t e V l of Ne th Canal . i ndustri s of this li tl

a e e a e e t h e pl c includ co l mining, lim ston quarrying , m ﬁrecla and e ﬁ re ining of y , the manufactur of bricks

e e e e w and c ment. R solv n is some mil s lo er down the a t he e river . Co l mining is sol industry , but at

t wo s a a e ﬁr e ar e Clyne, mile aw y , tinpl t s and bricks m a a a e the e ade. Cryn nt, coal mining Vill g , is in vall y

the B a e a t he e of ul is , and Ab rdul is is on conﬂuenc of

B a and t h e e the ul is N dd .

I CHAPTER XVI I .

a e Th e Basin o f t h e T w .

t he e e t he THE Tawe , like all long r riv rs of county,

has its source outside its borders . It rises in Llyn y

Fan a and e e a F wr in the Black Mountains , nt rs Gl morgan

Th a a e near Ystalyfera. e Tawe Valley runs p r ll l to that

a t of the Nedd . It follows an almost str ight course un il

wa Ba e e the river empti es its waters into S nsea y , tw lv

The Twr h i e th e e n mil es away . c r s s in sam mountai

a the range as the p arent stream . It forms p rt of THE BASIN OF THE TAWE 1 0 5 1 0 6 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

n a e ee a a e bou d ry b tw n Brecknock and C rm rth n , and

e ee B e a a also b tw n r cknock and Gl morg n . It ﬂows into

e a t he Tawe n ar Yst lyfera.

t h e a a h From high l nd on its right b nk , w ich includes

e as e Gw rh d and Gallt the h ights known C fn y y Grug,

Gwair e Wastad Mynydd , Mynydd G lli , Mynydd

sco d l n e m Py y and C fn Dru , it r eceives sever al

e e e e are t h tributari s . Chi f of th s e Upp er and Low er

an n t he Clydach d the n ndr o d . Just orth of town of

a sea e wee t he Kil ve and w Sw n it ﬂows , b t n y To n Hills,

a a ea e e a a ea e through p ss of gr t boldn ss , whos n tur l b uti s h ave b een Spoiled by the smok e and f umes from the

ea e gr t works at Morriston and Landor .

For many mil es from Swans ea th e v all ey is a scen e

a n and C e e t of busy industry. Co l mining , iro opp r sm l in a e a th e a a t e e a g, tinpl t m king , and m nuf c ur of ch mic ls and patent fuel are t h e chi ef industri es c arri e d

Th i h e ca on . e qu ant ty of coal n ee ded in t lo l works is e and e w e add the a a e normous , wh n to this mount r is d

e a ea ee a t he a e o ne for xport tion , it is sily s n th t tr d is of

e Th e n e a e e e . v ry consid r bl xt nt bitumi ous , or binding, co lﬁ l The e e th e a e d is near t he town . colli ri s of a a lie h u t he a e ea nthr cite or ston e coal igh er p v ll y , n r t he h e northern boundary of t county.

Landore is the ﬁ rs t Of t h e industri al c entres north

ea and a o ne and a a e of Swans , is dist nt h lf mil s from

w t he that town . It forms a ard i n County Borough of

a ea and has a at e Th e Sw ns , popul ion of ov r asp ect of the district around is very dreary and d eso a e e a e e a and e a a l t , b ing lmost without v g t tion , n arly lw ys

THE BASIN OF THE TAWE 1 0 9

Its popul ation numbers and the greater number

he of these are occupied in the works of t district .

a e e e e e Th ere are h ere l rg colli ri s , copp r , ch mical , tin

w and . e t he e and spelter orks , an iron foundry Lik oth r

a ar e a towns of this loc lity , its surroundings m rked by t he absence of vegetation and the prese nce of pl enty

e of smok .

a a a Clydach , with popul tion of is mining

e ﬁ ve e wa ea and manufacturing villag mil s north of S ns .

h e a e ee a w and e It is on t main ro d b tw n th t to n Br con , and stands n ear the conﬂuence of the Cl ydach with

The e t he a e t h e Tawe . industri s of vill ge compris

t h e a a e tin a e and ﬁre coal mining, m nuf ctur of pl t s

and . e e is a e bricks , iron founding Th r lso a wooll n

e ee e e t he e factory h r e . Thr mil s high r up riv r i s

nd Th e w a a e a a e a a e . a Pont rd w , l rg populous vill g S n

th e a e e e ar e sea Canal runs through pl c . Th r e h er

e e e ee a e and e ca . xt nsiv st l , tin pl t , ch mi l works At

Kil b eb ll o ne e a a ﬁ recla are y y , mil aw y, co l and y found .

a e a e th e e e Of th e Yst l yf r , n ar north rn bord r county,

e e e wa e Th e t e is tw lv mil s from S ns a . nor h rn limit of — — th e coal b asin th e limeston e rock may b e s ee n h ere “ rib a h The a i n Y C t . district round Ystalyfera abo unds

ea and a t he e in b utiful rom ntic scen ery . I n n ighbour

are e a e a e and hood ston qu rri s, co l min s , iron and tin

. B are a ni works ricks also m de. At the Y scedwyn

s Iron Work , near Ystalyfera , the discovery was made that b usi s air i , j y ng hot bla t (heated ), ron ores could be wm Wate f P nta . C du r all, o rdawe

1 1 2 THE STORY o r GL AMOR GAN

h e D ul i The t n e a e t ributary t a s. ow tak s its n m from

e e s t he e an old ston bridg , which crosse riv r at this

Th e a a a a e r an r point. M il Co ch to C rm rth n th ough Pontardulais b efore the bridges at Llwchwr were

a a a t h e are e m de. The inh bit nts of town chi ﬂy

he and e e a e the e a engaged at t tin t rn pl t works , ch mic l

e at th e and engin e ring works , and collieries of the n eighbourhood .

The town of Loughor stands on the river Ll wchwr

e e th e B u e near the spot wh r it ﬂows into rry Inl t. It

a and e was formerly municipal borough , is still j oin d to th e Swansea district of boroughs for Parliamentary

e s t he Via Ju lia purpos s . Loughor stand on old

i ima e a e e the e Mar t , which her p ss d ov r riv r i nto

The a a a o n t he C arm arth enshire. l st Rom n st tion Via

ia a e L eucar um a e ee a e Ju l , c ll d , is s id to hav b n situ t d

e a e a e at Loughor . The r m ins of a Roman nc mpm nt

at Carn o ch e and can b e seen g n ar by , many other

a e a a as tr c s of Rom n occup tion , coins and pottery ,

h ave b een found .

Two ﬁne e e t he e at mod rn bridg s cross riv r Lough or .

r e a e e One a e t he e They a e of consid r bl l ngth . c rri s Gr at

e e a w a the e and the e e W st rn R il ay cross riv r , oth r is us d for foot trafﬁc and for vehicl es . Previous to the const ruction of the bridges th e river was crossed by

a e e e are e a e e m e ns of a f rry. Th r sev r l colli ri s in the

and a a e district, on the C rm rth nshire side of the river i is a large tin works . Sh ps of 20 0 to 300 tons burthen are able to come up theirriver at spring tide as f ar as

Loughor. THE BA SIN OF THE L LWCHWR 1 1 3

’ In anci ent days Loughor w as known as Tre r Afano

’ B e e a e t a was ( eav rs Town), b c us hat anim l found in th e

The w as as Rhe ed river . district also known g , from a British warrior Uri en Rheged who conqu ered it from a

W elsh Fish Wife .

a who had e e e e b nd of Irish Picts s ttl d there . Ther wer

a th e e th e continu l quarrels for poss ssion of territory,

r th e e m n _ ri l u e and Lougho was . c ntre of a y t er b e str ggl s

‘ e e a e the e a e b twe n v rious parti s of W lsh , and lso b tween t he e e W lsh and ali n invaders . 1 1 4 TH E STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

1 9 4 a d e e a c e th e In 0 , Willi m Londr s p rtly o cupi d dis

o the ea 1 0 9 9 w as a e e b tri t, and in y r it t k n poss ssion of y t e ea a a . He e H nry B umon , E rl of W rwick built a c astl

t h e e e ce Of the e e a at Loughor for d f n conqu r d l nd , but

1 1 1 5 w as a e and e e f in , it t k n d stroy d by Gri ﬁth ,

b Te wdw r The e the son of Rhys a . Normans r built the ssue w as a a d e e in 1 1 35 and w as (i , but it g in stroy d ,

- iOr e r e . th e e Of e e o nce n built D uring r ign St ph n , in the oppression of the Welsh by the Norm ans

a e h and e e t he n f c us d R ys M r dith , so s of Gri ﬁth , to

e a e w as a a n attack th eir oppr ssors . Loughor C stl g i

e and e e e n b e e a e tak n d stroy d by th m , o ly to r p ir d by

a e t h e e r e ea e t he t he Norm ns wh n W lsh tr t d . Rhys

D ne vo r a a n e e 1 1 In Younger of y g i d molish d it in 2 5 .

a e th e t he reign of Edward II . it p ss d into e poss ssion of

l e e r e- a a the Hugh e D sp ens r who built it. It is s id th t — — present rui ns a squ are tow er built on a mound are

’ e e the r emains of D esp nser s castl .

Penclaw dd is a l arge v illage o n t h e shores Of t h e

m e a e a e ea. a Burry Inl t , bout nin il s from Sw ns Co l

t he a e th e a an mining forms st pl industry of inh bit ts .

a e w e e O e a e e e t h e h as Tin pl t s r nc m d h r , but works

e The e and sse b ee n clos d . cockl mu l ﬁshing industry

m e a a e e Of e Th gives employ nt to l rg numb r p opl e. e mounds of emp ty cockl e sh ells presen t a curious app earance and look from a distanc e like huge snow

Th e a e e e ew e e drifts . roads h v cockl sh lls str n ov r th m

w nd The c and look p eculi arly hite a cl ean . ockl es are

e t e a e t and are a e sent fr sh to h m rk , lso boil d and riddl ed

a e for sal e w i thout the sh ell . L t ly the pickling and

1 1 6 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN THE VALE o r GLAMOR GAN 1 1 7

e t he a e th e a ee From this h ight v ll y of Th w is s n ,

e e t he sea w inding its short cours from Cowbridg to ,

e b a e e a a skirted on each sid y l v l upl nd country . Fl t

’ A W nte s Sc e ne In the V i r ale .

“ as a e e a e this upl nd s ms , its surf c is r eally broken by

a a ee a e m ny brupt though not d p v ll ys , down which run

S a all e e p rkling brooks , h lping to sw ll the i mportanc e of 1 1 8 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

w he ve h n t he a a t t e a e . and sm ll Th , ri r of V l Upla d

e re e the vall y a alik fruitful , form er yi elding corn and t he a e e th e a w s e l tt r b ing for most part l id do n in pa tur .

The a e t h e a e Th b e . e clim t of V l , too , must noticed temperate w estern breez es s we ep over it fresh from t he

e th e ea e and e e A tl antic . Th y cool h t of summ r t mp r

t he e . e e eez e u b e e cold of wint r Th s br s, it m st admitt d, bring with th em more moisture than altogether pl eas es t he a a t h e ee e he inhabit nts , but it dds to gr nn ss of t

e e a h e a h pastur s and do s not ffect t he lth of t e people . Indeed if tradition is tru e there w ere numbers of t h e p e opl e of t he Old en days who live d to ages f ar “ ” e e a t h e Old xce ding th t of famous Parr .

Few districts h ave more to interest thos e who are

t e e e fond of old things than the Vale . Sca t r d ov r it s a e ar e t he e a a a surf c r m ins of Druidic l , British , Rom n ,

a and a e e u a e We e e e ai Norm n l t r f d l tim s . ﬁnd h r r m ns

e and t e e t he e of croml chs , s on circl s of tim of the

a the and th e a e Druids . C mps of Britons of i nv d rs of

a w e e our country abound. Huge c irns Sho us wh r the

ea e in the a a e the d d , kill d m ny b ttl s fought on soil of

t h e a e lie e . e a e a e are V l , buri d Church s of nci nt d t to be

ee t h e e a e e a a e e . a e s n , and r m ins of s v r l mon st ri s C stl s a a e t he a a e t h e bound , r is d by Norm n i nv d r to hold

h h a e ground which e won from t e n tive W lsh .

h a e T e inhabitants of th e Val e form curious mixtur .

r e e Some a e of undoubte d Welsh origin . Som hav the

nd he a e ﬂorid compl exions a light hair of t Saxon r c .

O e a a t a are t he th rs gain , as at Ll ntwi M j or , known descendants of a colony of Fl e mings who settl ed there

1 20 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

e a e t ee e In e e e dis g ner lly last d hr tid s . spit of th s

a e e a e ea had e adv ntag s , Ab rth w , a hundr d y rs ago , mor

a e a the a The was tr d th n port of C rdiff . coast also frequ ented by s everal bands of wreck ers who took

e the e e and e everything of valu from wr ck d ships , som tim es lured vessels to their doom by showing false n h lights alo g t e cliffs .

Until rec ent y ears the Vale could only b e reach ed

e e no w the e by m ans of carriag s or on foot , but Val of

a a a Glamorg n R ilway , which runs along the co st from

B - d e has e e a e a e arry to Bri g nd , Op n d out consid r bl

The a e district to tourists . railw y is twenty mil s long and its cours e li es in a dis trict full of inter esting and

e ea Ll ant ri beautiful haunts . Cowbridg is r ched from s n a a the a e a a a the a t by br nch of T ff Val R ilw y , so th t principal places of the Val e are now j oined by rail with o th er parts of the county and with the kingdom

e a gen r lly . V G esto n a e G l est o n. il ill g , i

CHAPTER XXI .

— l l T e ale o f G l am an. . h V org

THE ﬁrst station on t he Val e of Glamorgan Railway

e ea a Th e aft r l ving B rry is Rhoose . only history b elonging to Rhoose is connected with the smuggling

e e and Fo nt ar are e . trad , but Porthk rry yg y quit near

e ea e e as a e a r a Porthk rry is of gr t int r st, it is n m d fte

e a a He a a e e Princ of Gl morg n . is s id to h v furnish d his stat e with a n avy for t he d efence of its shores from t he pirates and rove rs who ravaged its sea

e . e w as th e e and e ea bord r C ri princ , Porthk rry m ns

’ he e s . e a e b ut t C ri Port The port is now d c y d , surrounding country is so b eautiful that it attracts

e num rous visitors during th e summer months . Fo nt ygar y is a little summer resort w h ere a

e a e e mod r te b each is backed by some high cliffs . H r the rocks are so evenly l aid that they look as if th e y h d a u he Re v . been b ilt by human hands . T John

THE VALE OF GLAMORGAN 1 25 of interest as it is a pl ace much favour ed by picnice rs and oth ers who like the breezy L eys for an outing

ea th e sea n r .

t e e North of Llantwit Maj or is Fle mings o ne . H r w a and e a am e t e n s born buri d Edw rd Willi s , b t r k own

1 0 1 0 a a ea e e a as Morg nwg, l rn d ston m son , of whom

k r He w as o ne th e all Glamorgan fol a e proud . of

e a a e and e t e most distinguish d ntiqu ri s po ts of his i m . Wal es is gr eatly indebted to him for th e work h e did

her e i n preserving so much of history . Bov rton is

ea an w e e e about a mil e st of Ll t it . Som p opl think

e w t he B o he a a e that h er as vium of t Rom ns . Tr c s of

a ad a e ee e and e a Rom n ro w y hav b n not d , numb rs of

a e ee It e we Rom n coins hav b n found . is possibl , ho ver , that th e ro ad w as a branch from the Via Julia to

a w as a a e a e a Ll ntwit , which pl c of import nc in Rom n da as t he e a e e e a ys , r m ins discov r d prov . It is s id that

e t ab Gw r an a an a e e I s yn g , Lord of Gl morg , had r sid nc e at Boverton .

On e ea a e a rocky h ight n r N sh Point, b tween d ’ a a an u a e a a t e . Ll ntwit M j or D nr v n , is St . Don t s C s l

’ On th e l and belonging to t h e estate are Gwrgan s

e the ea e ab Gwr an and e e a Town , onc s t of I styn g , s v r l

and a e a e Roman D nish nc mpm nts .

Not much of the original castle r emains in the

e e a a e pr s nt building, which is of a comp r tiv ly recent

Yet e e age . it is int r sting b ecause it is o ne of t he

e e the Old a a e e e a most p rf ct of b roni l r sid nc s of W l es , and it has b een constantly occupie d since its ﬁrst

e er ction . Standing on high ground, Sloping gently

' urc Llantwit Ma Ch h, j o r.

CHAPTER XXII .

— l l l Th e ale o f Gla m . V org an.

THE w Of t he a e a a a e to n V le is Cowbridg , sm ll pl c of

h b a a e the a a in a it nts , situ t d on m in ro d , our

a a e ee the nd h a e imagin ry bound ry b tw n hills a t e V l . H er e cam e to market in old en tim es from the Val e on t he o ne e and th e a a e t he e sid . sc nty vill g s on oth r , all

had and a m e e who stock f r ing p roduc to s ll , or who w e e n e a a e ish d to buy hous hold goods . O oth r th n m rk t da th e n e ee t h e b e e ys , lo g singl str t of town might us d as a ground for riﬂe practice with but small d anger to

’ ” a u e any of His M j esty s s bj cts .

Th e population has remained at almost the same

’ e a ea and he e e e e numb r for m ny y rs , t town s sol trad v n

e h e e a a e a e ee now com s from t e farms . S v r l c us s h v b n

he e the a given to account for t backwardn ss of pl ce .

e e t h e a a e Chi f of thes is without doubt l ck of manuf ctur s. But a pow erful assisting c aus e is the difﬁculty and almost t he impossibility of obtaining building ground THE VALE OF GLAMORGAN 1 29

n the e e e i or n ear the town . When Gr at W st rn Railway was und e r construction the inhabitants refused to

e a the e p rmit it to p ss through town , so it was left b hind

a - when Glamorgan towns beg n to grow . Even to day it has to b e satisﬁed with a branch lin e of the Taff Vale

a l a a . Railw y , which runs from L ntris nt

“ The old name of t h e town w as Y Dref Hir yn y

a The the e a W un ( Long Town in M dow), a most

. u a a e the a e s it ble one . A tradition st t s that English n m

a e u a e the e c m from a c rious circumst nc . After rection

a e e the cow e of ston bridg across Thaw , a , chas d by

e ran e The a a som dogs , und r it . rch was so narrow th t

t he co w a in e . a e stuck f st it , h ld by its horns The h rd st

e a e e e th e a wa struggl s f il d to r mov n imal , whose owner s

he Th e a forced to kill it on t spot . rms of the borough

S a a e The e e e how cow st nding on a bridg . pr s nt W lsh

a e ae The B e n m is Pontf n ( Stone ridg ), which is

e b e a Po nt f o n e suppos d to corruption of y (Cowbridg ).

Th e has ee e its a a town b n not d for Gr mm r School . Tradition tells us that wh en t h e coll ege at Llantwit

s a e e the a e the lo t its import nc aft r Norm n Conqu st ,

e e d e e a school was transf rr d to Cowbri g . Anoth r ccount

’ n n a states that it w as o e of the Stradli gs of St . Don t s

e who ﬁrst established a school h ere . How ver it was

Leo line Llew e1 n e e the a Sir ( y ) J nkins , Judg of Admir lty and e e e a e a e e Hom S cr t ry und r Ch rl s II . , who plac d t he a school upon a sound found tion .

e the a e e e a e t he Aft r Norm n Conqu st , Cowbridg b c m

e t e possession of Rob r de St . Quintin . To prot ct th e

a a a e o f the e . inh bitants from the r v g s W lsh , St Quintin , K 1 30 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN a 1 0 9 8 e e the a Of e bout , nclos d town within wall gr at

e nd t n t h e w e e ee a e . h ight a s re gth . In wall r thr g t s A

nd n t h e e a portion of t he wall a o e of gat s still st nd . - The Norm an knight erecte d his castle at Llanb leth

a d n e a a . a e e a ian , short ista c w y This c stl is of sp ci l

t he a e e e t 1 0 94 A . D . interest , as d t of its r c ion , , has

mma Sc and T wn Gate w d e . Gra r hool o , Co bri g t h i rk th (From e p aint ng b y Ma An o ny .)

e a a been recorded . The r m ins consist chi eﬂy of

a a e and h w D ecor ted g t way a portion of t e all . This

e a was e e e e th e e gat w y built by Ann N vill , wif of Duk

Of e t e a e a e a e Glouc s r who ft rw rds b c m Richard III .

A little east of t h e town of Cowbridge w as fought

ne the e a e a a Th o of bloodi st b ttl s of Gl morg n . e

i an We he h Normans or Engl sh , d the lsh of t Vale ad

1 32 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

e he sea c e and a o ne t a . Cowbridg , bout mil from o st Its anci ent gr eatn ess may b e traced in many ruins

e n found scattered h ere and there . All its hous s a d

The streets are m emoirs of Olden days . ruins of its on c e famous college and other monastic buildings

e stand in th e neighbourhood of its anci nt church .

Monastic B udding at Llantwit .

Among other inter esting r emains are t he old dove

. a e e e e e th e e cot It is w ll pr s rv d round tow r , insid being ﬁtted with n umerous hol es in the wall for the

h t a a e w nests of t e doves . It s nds i n ﬁ ld est of a long Th r o w of Old thatch ed almshouses . e pres ent church

a th e e c e w t ee d tes from tw lfth ntury , ith six nth century a Th e e a f ar e dditions . r m ins of a old r structure have been found during th e restorations that have been TH E VALE OF GLAMOR GAN 1 33

e are e e e a made from time to time. Insid pr s rv d m ny

e e e ca e and i e Sp cim ns of C ltic rv d nscrib d crosses ,

e e several of which are of gr at b auty .

a an The Town H ll , or Church Loft, is old building

a me Th e of stone originally built in Early Norm n ti s .

a a e e c w as e turret cont ins v ry old b ll , whi h onc stolen

a from the monks of Llantwit by King Edgar of Engl nd .

’ it ea he a e In order to carry sily , hung it on hors s

e D e a a and n ck . uring his hom w rd m rch , the king his

a e e the t he s e . rmy r st d , and during halt , king l pt He

ea and a h e h a he dr mt, in his dre m thoug t th t saw the

a e ea e a e bell coming towards him . As it c m n r r, it ch ng d

t he a e- The into form of knight on hors back . knight

t h e and u t h e e rode up to king, to ched him on br ast

a e On a a en w as a a e with lanc . w k ing , Edgar so l rm d that h e ordered th at all things taken from the monastery s b e e a e e e he hould imm di t ly r stor d . Though did this ,

e an a h e e n e a wrot old histori n , di d withi nin d ys .

“ Near th e village is a ﬁ eld call ed Caerm ead (Cae

Mid— The e a a a u Fi ld of Comb t). Exc v tions cond cted

1 8 88 e e e the e a m a in r v al d sit of Ro n villa . A Roman

a e a e e e e a e a e e and b th , d cor t d til s , t ss l t d p v m nt , human and a a e a e m e e nim l r m ins w er found . For so r ason or

e t he a a ea e and t he e oth r , exc v tions c s d , r mains wer e

ve e e e the e w a co r d ov r , but nough of Sit s exposed to show that the Villa w as a pl ace of luxury and the abode

e e a O of som promin nt Rom n fﬁcial .

The road to the beach li es in a long vall ey call ed l Co hu h . e e e he g A port onc xist d on t Shore . It w as ” a e G b a and a e e c ll d ol gh , numb r of old posts s en in 1 34 TH E STORY OF GLAMORGAN the water are supposed to b e th e remains of an old

a e e are a e the a e The l nding stage . Th s c ll d by n tiv s

Old a M n o lhu h Bl ck e . C g was one of the most important ports of t h e county so late as the reign of

e he e liﬁ re a H nry VIII . In t n ighbouring c s a m ny caves used in by gon e days by smuggl ers and wreck ers

t he b a who gave coast a d name .

The industri es of Llantwit are all connected with

a The a f rming . only m nufacture is that of farming

e The e h re a impl ments. pastur s of t e district a f mous , th e e t he e e e e b ef from cattl r ar d on th m ( being

e th e e The is consider d of very b st quality . soil too

e e e e he e v ry f rtil , large crops of corn b ing t rul . The

e village, in summer, is much frequ nted by Visitors

th e from industrial district to the north .

Th e history of Llantwit is of importance and interest owing to its close connection with t he l earning nd a religion of Wales from the very earliest times . Some say that the place was one of the centr es of the

a t he Druidic religion , and lso claim for it distinction of being the site of the ﬁrst British Christian

e e i a a Eur ain the Univ rsity . Som histor ans s y th t g ,

e the a a c e e e daught r of famous C r do , stablished h r a

4 he rd e choir or college of 2 monks in t 3 c ntury .

O e w e the s e e Eur ain th r rit rs doubt exi t nc of g , but all agree that a college was founded by the Roman

e e a e a e th e e Tewdw G n r l Th odosius (c ll d by W lsh , s)

e and 9 5 A D T some time b etween the y ars 368 3 . . he

a e e e Of e e princip l and chi f t ach r this coll g , now cal led

1 36 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

h a e e Girald as t e Histori n , Tali sin the Po t , Sampson ,

& a a B Archbishop of Do in Fr nce , and P ulinus, ishop

Of e L on .

Th e Abbots or Principals of the college of Llantwit

e he e and were held in high steem by t W lsh , , though

t he a e e in name subj ect to Bishops of Ll ndaff , th y wer

h e e every whit as powerful as t e bishops . The coll g ﬂ ourished as t he chi ef in Britain until the Norman

e e e t h e Fit zh amo n a a s ttl m nt of county . took w y most

e th e t he of its prop rty , giving bulk to the monks of

Abb ey of T ewkesbury . Though it continued in

i s e e e t he e n e . t xist nc until r ig of H nry VIII , it lost all importance and authority after the coming of t he

f he e e h a . O t t e Norm ns At the Dissolution Monast ri s , remainder of its property was given to Gloucester

a e and e e a e C th dral , the buildings , onc l ft uninh bit d ,

e e Th e th e e e ar a f ll into d cay . ruins of coll g e in ﬁeld

i t he and e the beh nd church , thos of monastic buildings

e a e a littl west of the s m building .

The monastery at Llancarfan was also of anci ent

British origin . It is said to have b een founde d by

a int he 5th e and at wa G rmon c ntury , ﬁrst s known

a COr . a e ea w as e s Garmon In l t r y rs , it call d COr or

B Catt w a te the a e a ea angor g f r n m of its most f mous h d ,

Cat w Ddo eth ado h e Ca t w t g (C c t Wise). t g was h eir to t he e Gwentllw e provinc of g, in Monmouthshir . He a a e a a b ndon d all his cl ims to his inherit nce , preferring

e e e He e a e to d vot his lif to study . r m in d at Llancarfan

ea e e until his d th , which occurr d wh n he was 1 20 years

Cat w old . t g gathered together t he proverbs and BETWEEN THE OGWR AND THE AFAN 1 37

hi e an sayings , on which s fame is bas d, d he also h taught in t e coll ege .

the e a a a e At Conqu st, Ll nc rf n came into the poss s

B e de a e a e e sion of lond l M p s , who m rri d the daught r

e e w e e e of its W lsh lord . Th ir son as the c l brat d

de a e e O and a Walter M p s , Archd acon of xford Ch plain

en e a h e e the to H ry I . Wh n young man , translat d Brut y Brenhino edd (The Chronicl e of the Kings)

. a e h e r t rans from Welsh into Latin In his old g , e

e the e i a e lat d Latin v rs on b ck into W lsh , and made additions of his own .

Caradoc of Llancarfan lived at t he same time as

e de a e a a a e who Walt r M p s . C r doc was l arned monk , w o rn e was t he as b in the village . H author of the “ ” B T w so i o n e the rut y y y g (Chronicl of Princes), a

1 1 a i history of Wal es from 68 6 to 57 . C radoc d ed

I 1 1 7 n 5 .

CHAPTER XXIII .

n h f n Be t w e en t h e n r a d t e A a .

BETWEEN the n r and the Afan li es a strip of land which only rises above a ﬂ at plain in a lo w range called

e ri w r a t t en e C fn C b b . This tr ct is abou miles in l ngth

h as with an average breadth of about fiv e miles . It o ne e t he Kenfi a ma e th e riv r , g, s ll brook which ris s on Margam Dow ns and after a course of about nine mil es flows across the solitary sands of Kenfig B urrows into the sea Th a a . e whol e co st of this strip of l nd is 1 38 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

e e e a back d by ext nsive tracts of sand , brought ther by great overﬂow ing of the sea in the middle of th e six t een h e t e e e are t c n ury. Here the plac s of int r st

a Kenﬁ an a . Porthc wl , g d M rgam

Porthcawl is a small seaport and watering pl ace a

e short distance west of t h e mouth of th e Ogmor . It

s a ﬁne a e t he e r a boa ts of b thing b ach , r so t of thous nds

th e Th e a th e during summer months . co st in

e e et et ee n ighbourhood, xcept for a short str ch b w n the e e e town and Sk r Point , is composed of d solat and ba e e th e e a rr n sand dun s , hom s of thous nds of

a Th e e s r bbits . population of the town numb r about

Before the year 1 8 66 Porthcawl was only a tidal

a a 7 a e e was port, but in th t year dock 4 cres in xt nt

a h e a m de. Provision was made for t lo ding and

a a and e e e e unlo ding of c rgo , for som time an xt nsiv

a e a e e e th e a tr d was m d . At pr s nt , mount of trade

e e a ee don is v ry sm ll ind d .

Sker House in t h e neighbourhood is the scene of a a e rom ntic legend which suggest d to Mr . William ”

e t he e The a e . Blackmor plot of his nov l , M id of Sk r “ ” a e w e t he T e a A short dist nc st of town is he R st,

a e e e th e he conv l sc nt hom for working class of t county .

e e a a e a a e a has a N wton Nottag , vill g bout mil aw y curious well which rises and falls contrary to the rise

n e e e e h a d fall of the tide. S v n hundr d y ars ago t e roof of the parish church w as fortiﬁed in order to protect t h e e e e t he p opl of the villag from attacks of pirates .

1 40 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

e The e t he burgesses many important privileg s. mac

e e e of th extinct borough is also pr s rved .

Th e old town and castle are buri ed b en eath the

a e i 1 540 e a the a s nd . L land , wr ting in , m ntions th t s nd was gradually creeping on th e place and t he buri al w as

— Sectio n shewing Oute r Defe nc e Newton Nottage Church . c ompl eted about 1 60 7 wh en a great storm swept over t he s e ea h a e coa t, d solating many parts . N r t e Vill g is an ” e e e e nﬁ xtensiv she t of wat r known as Ke g Pool .

at e a e e This , c rt in s asons , is cov red by hundreds of wild fowl . BETWEEN THE OGWR A ND THE AFAN 1 41

The history of the original Kenﬁg is hidden in

e e e are a S w a myst ry . Th r m ny things to ho that town and castle of some kind existe d here at a very

a a a MW nf awr early date . It is s id th t Morg n y , Prince

a e e no w e a of Glamorg n , er ct d a church , cover d by s nd ,

d a a e e e e . A D . an in 520 . , th t town xist d here b for then

u l a Mar i i a ran a The Roman road Via J i t in ne r by .

9 the e e e a and e In 8 3, Saxons d sc nd d on the co st, burn d

The t he e was e . town , which , how ver , speedily r built

a Kenﬁ i e e a m nor of g, n anci nt tim s , was a roy l possession ,

Gw r an ee 1 0 43 1 0 80 and Iestyn ab g , betw n and ,

- h h e a e strength en ed t e town and built t e castl . It p ss d int o the hands of Rob ert Fit zhamo n after the defeat of

e ma e th e I styn , and the Nor ns consid red the walls of town and castle so strong that they did not strength en

i N o e i e or rebu ld them . r build ng was don for eighty

i a e a w a e e n ne years ft rw rds , hen Willi m , Earl of Glouc st r,

- f ew re erected the castle . The remains that peep through the sand here and there are fragments of this building.

1 31 5 e w B e e In , Ll elyn ren mad a desperat attack on t he s a e Le sho n de ca tle . The g rrison , command d by y

e e e e r Afan , successfully d fend d th ir charg . It is e corded t hat Leysh o n sent a bill of forty marks (o ne ma = 1 34 e a t he e e rk / ) to the r gent of Gl morgan for d f nce.

a . t he a e w as e e e e Edw rd II , to whom m tt r r f rr d , d cided that Leysho n by defending Kenﬁg also d e fended his o w n e e and w as poss ssion (Ab ravon), so only granted

e a a e e 1 39 9 the tw nty m rks tow rds the xp nses . In , 1 42 THE STORY OF GLA MORGAN

a e w as e e e the l e e e c stl str ngth n d by D sp nser, into whose

e hands it had fall n .

a te r H use Mar am Ch p o . g .

at the e a Margam , bas of Mynydd M rgam , is a small

e e ea but highly int r sting village. In rly days it was

e sho ric a e the seat of a W lsh Bi p , ft rwards j oined to that of

BETWEEN THE OGWR AND THE AFAN 1 45

W e e enemies and i a e e h n ﬂ eing from his , hosp t bly rec iv d

W a ithin its w lls .

f ar he a e at Nun d Not from t bb y , Eglwys y (The

’ e th e Nuns Church) existed a convent of nuns . Insid a e the e ie bb y grounds , and within church , sev ral anc nt carved crosses and inscribed Celtic stones are carefully “ e e i e pres rv d . The gem of the collect on is the Gr at ” l n t he o nb e i . Wheel Cross of C A room , adj oining

O the i a o ld rangery within grounds , conta ns m ny

a e are t wo things of gre t int rest . Among them Roman

l a and t wo a e a e . a t rs , l rg images of Rom n Emp rors

The O a e a e has ee r ng ry , featur of the Abbey, b n in e e xistence for many y ears . It ow s its erection to a

e e e e Th e a a e r markabl occurr nc . origin l trees , or ng , lemon and citron trees had b een sent to England from — Spain as a present to the reigning monarch some say

e I e and e Charl s . , oth rs Elizabeth , others Qu en Mary . The ship was sailed by mistake into the Bristol

e a Channel inst ad of the English Ch nnel , and was

W e a a The ee e e e reck d near M rg m . tr s w r sav d , and kept at Margam Abbey but Queen Anne presented

e Man el O e w as th m to the s s. The rang ry built about

1 785 . e ee are e In the summ r , the tr s r moved into the

O e air it p n , and says much for the climate of the

e e county that the fruit comes to p rf ction .

The scenery in the hills behind the abbey is of the i On most beaut ful and romantic description . e of the hills is covere d from base to summit by a remarkabl e

e k ak o f for st of o a trees. The o clothed hills Margam ” i e ak i gave it ts old nam of Pendar (O Summ t). 1 46 TH E STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

n e e th e ee e w e This am it k pt until thirt nth c ntury , h n it

e w as a n a e e b ecam kno n Morg n , in ho our of W lsh nobl

e w as e of that nam . This afterwards chang d into

On t he M argam . hills are num erous camps and earth

o f and a e works British D nish construction . N umb rs

are a b e and f ar aw th e of tumuli lso to found , not ay is

B v famous o d o c Ston e .

CHAPTER XXIV .

I — . ( l ow er .

IN gr eat contrast to th e m ain l and in its imm edi ate

e e c a a n ighbourhood , Gow r is stri tly f rming district .

a e and ea air e It is country of cl ar h lth giving , pr tty

e and a e and b r eeez and e e a vall ys inl nd d lls , y f rtil upl nd

- - S . e a e B lopes Its high st ground is ridge , C fn y ryn , which is so l o w that it canno t b e consid ered as a

n th e t a is e e n mou tain . For mos p rt it nclos d in a iron

w - w bound coast ith glorious sea vi e s .

The e a h as a e e p ninsul l ngth of som twenty miles,

an a e a e ea Of ﬁv e with v r g br dth from to six , and is

a e The a w about eighty squ r mil es in ar ea. princip l to n

O e t as e a t h e is yst rmou h , or , it is mor popul rlyknown ,

ﬁne a e a the r Mumbles . A ro d l ads long coast f om

e t h e e and a e a w a Swans a to Mumbl s , st am tr m y also n connects th e two pl aces . O t he roadsid e is a small

e e n Rom an bridg . The Mumbles is fast b comi g a

a a e a e e and ea a f shion bl w t ring plac , is a pl s nt and

1 48 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

e e a a h e h althy plac to st y t . What Penarth is to t e peopl

a O e e e so of C rdiff, and st nd is to Bruss ls and Brug s , is t he e an e and ea Mumbl s to Sw s a N th . The view from the sea front or from the Mumbl es

e a a e a he h adl nd is m gniﬁc nt, and comm nds t whol e

e a Ba e e str tch of Swanse y . Indeed it xt nds eastward as

w anse a Ba S y .

f e are ee ar as Nash Point . To thos who fond of br zy

wn e e e and e a do sé sc nt d with thym oth r wild pl nts , — sloping to an iron bound coast broken by bluffs and — vast headl ands of d elicious littl e bays where o ne can dream aw ay t h e day in&gl adsome sunshin e and be — lulled by the music of th e sea o f h ealthy j co mmons GOWER 1 49

e this n ighbourhood is full of charms . This Vi ew of Swansea Bay is sometimes said to b e like that of the

e a t he Bay of Napl s . A pathway long cliffs leads to t he

ea a e e a a and b utiful Br c l t , L ngl nd , Caswell , or Three

ff e e e Cli s Bays . Fin str tch s of sand in Langland and

e a a S e a Casw ll B ys fford pl ndid opportunities for b thing , though at some periods Langland Bay is rather

a e n the e e e e - e d ng rous owi g to xist nc of und r curr nts .

a e t h e e Inl nd li s Bishopston Vall y , which is a

e h The e favourite driv from t e town . littl Village of Bishopston in the vall e y is a ce ntre wh ence tourists h make their t rips over t e p eninsula.

The a S e e e e e e roadste d , h lt r d by Mumbl s H ad , giv s

a e e ample refuge for sm ll vess ls . The Mumbl s is noted

- Th ﬁsh e e a e . e a n for its Shell , sp ci lly oyst rs qu lity a d quantity of this shell - ﬁsh gave th e Mumbles its oth er

T e e e e O e . h e Off name , yst rmouth oyst r b ds xt nd from

’ e ea t he e a the Mumbl s H d almost to Worm s H ad , t h t he oth er end Of t h e Go w er c o ast . T e industry gives

e e Of e employm nt to a larg number p rsons , and large quantit i es of th e oysters ar e sent to the diff erent

markets every year .

The chief obj ects of i nterest at the Mumbl es itself

h The are the lighthouse and t he remains of t e castle . latter is a prominent feature on t he hill -top behind the

e e t he e t he town . The lighthous occupi s out rmost of rocks that form the Mumbl es H ead On the H ead ar e

’ a a also a Lloyd s station , coastguard station , ship

e a ff i and a a e . tel gr ph o ce , b tt ry of six guns THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

Oystermouth Castl e ruins are resorted to b y many

h w w a a Of th e visitors to t e to n . It s most prob bly

e a a c t he ea ea built by H nry , E rl of W rwi k, in rly y rs

e a w as a e a e of t h 1 2t h c entury . Th t it ft rwards dd d to is e vident from t he fact th at it contains many

f e u e Th e a e w a o ne differe nt styles o archit ct r . c stl s

O ste rmo ut y h.

t he e e . 1 21 5 the e of k ys of Gow r In , Rhys Young r , of

D nev o r e e e h e y , invad d Gow r , d stroying many of t

e . e a e e castl s Among thos t k n and burnt was this castl . It is no t known w heth er its ﬁn al destruction was d ue

w O e to Owen Glynd r or l iv r Cromwell . Oystermouth was a town of importance long b efore

was Old a a Swansea w as. It the c pit l of the lordship

1 52 TH E STORY OF GLAMORGAN ownership of a vessel that had b een wrecked on t he

h b a he e e e shores of t e y . In t abs nc of Sir Ric , Sir George l ed a mob of his supporte rs against Oxwich

e Th e t e s t he e a e ea Off e Castl . nant of st t b t the rabbl with th e loss of an old l ady who was killed by a stone h thrown during the affray . Part of t e ruins is occupi ed

e and e are a e e a b e as a farmhous , ther lso som r m ins to

e - e e t he see n of an anci nt dove cot attach d to castle .

Pennard Castl e ruins stand on the side of a hill

he O Th guarding t entrance into xwich Bay . e r emains have the app earance of a castellate d mansion b uilt in

h e a w th e times of t Edw rds . It as not 3 Norman

e the e a e e structur of fortiﬁ d c stl typ , but still was a

e a strong plac , and was prob bly built upon t he site of

e e e a i the Ba a former castl . B sid s comm nd ng y it also guarded a creek running up into the Gower country

ae Kilvro u h e e between Penm n and g , onc a r sort of

Danish pirates.

Penric e Castl e was built by the Normans in order

e a e e e e t he to s erv as def nc for th ir poss ssions in district.

ne t he s s It was o of large t castle in Gower . Much of

ld s e e a the O ca tl still r m ins , a curious round tower

e the Th e being promin nt among ruins . village of Penric e that grew up around th e castle walls was

e Of formerly a mark t town importance. Ruins of th e

e a e e e e e old mark t pl c wer in xistenc quit r ecently .

the u the e e e a e Near old b ilding is pr s nt P nrice C stl ,

e ea the a the mod rn s t of Talbots of M rgam , where King

e a e 1 9 0 4 Edward VII . was ntert in d in . GOWER 1 53

The cliffs around Oxwich Bay are pi erced by s everal

We a e al ea ea a e e e as caves . h v r dy r d bout th s , as w ll about t he cave s th at are found i n the cliffs from th e

’ ’

ea . a b ay to Worm s H d J ust north of Worm s He d, on

e a b a ea t he a e a e the the shor s of y b ring s m n m , is

e e th e little villag e of Rhoscilly. It is fully xpos d to

e e s and t he a has ee w st rly wind , co st in its vicinity b n

h e e e e a e e e t e sc n of s veral m mor bl shipwr cks . P rhaps t he most note worthy w as t he wreck of a Spanish

a e a e u th e st a g ll on , which took pl c d ring ﬁr h lf of the

ee t a e e s a e sixt n h century . Loc l l g nds t t th at a great

ea a e e d l of Spoil was obt in d from this v ss el .

Smuggling w as act ively carrie d on at this part of the a he e Of t he e e e co st, but to t cr dit p opl th y w er e not

e e s as e e t h e a a e th e wr ck r , w r inh bit nts of oth r parts of

e t he coast of t he channel . B hind bay rise Rhoscilly

a a w a and Ll nm doc Do ns , two upl nd ridges that form

e a m a th e a e The e e promin nt l nd rks to Ch nn l . bay , xc pt

a - e e e during north w st wind , giv s good sh lter and a n nchorage for shippi g .

e - - ea ea e C fn y Bryn is sily r ch d from Rhoscilly . Large numbers of tumuli and oth er r emains of remote

r e S h times a e scatter e d ov r its lopes . But t e chie f “ ’ monument of old en days is the famous Arthur s ” ee a he e h Stone . It has b n c lled t wond r of t e world

w e t he e e on Go r , and lifting of this hug ston into its plac e is mentioned in some Old writings as o ne of t he ” ee a e a thr rduous und rtakings accomplished in Brit in .

Th e e t he e n a a north rn slope of p ni sul , f cing the

e e ea Th e a t m Burry Inl t , is v ry dr ry . co s is arshy , 1 54 TH E STORY OF GLAMORGAN and except in t he n eighbourhood of Penclaw dd is

t h e a a particul arly uninvi ting . At foot of Ll nm doc

Dow ns are t h e Vill ages Of Llangenith and Ll anmadoc .

h n dd th e Llan enit e a e . Ce g Church , d dic t d to St y ,

a t he a th e a e son of Gild s histori n , is l rg st building of

e w as e t he a its kind in Gow r . It found d by s int from

m it a e Th e was c e e who t k s its n ame . church onn ct d

a e d e e e a with priory found d by Robert e B ll mont , E rl

a c ea a a c at - a a of W rwi k . N r Ll nm do , Sprit s il Tor , is

e et e e at Pav iland e e cav som hing lik thos . In it w r

' A rt ur s St o ne C e fn br n Go w e h , y y , r.

t h e e e a e a a found bon s of hy nas , of rhinoc ros , hum n

e aw and e e a n . low r j , oth r r m i s Betw een Llanmadoc and Penclaw d d ar e t h e ruins

t wo as e e a a ar . of c tl s , both ov rlooki ng Ll nrhidi n M sh

l d r Th e The y are t h e castl es of L an ym o and W eobl ey .

e et m e ca e e a t e as form r is som i s ll d Ch riton C s l , it stands

t e e ea t a a e Th e n ear a lit l vi llag b ring h t n m . country

e e a a it Bo v ehill th e a w c p opl lso c ll , from f rm on hi h

a Th e e a e c t a e it st nds . r m ins chi ﬂy onsis of rud

a a t he a w a e curt in w ll , but from found tions , hich h v

1 56 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

CHAPTER XXVI . — [ IL Go w e r.

ea s e e as Yn staw e IN y r gon by , Gow r was known y ,

se n e e a e but its pre nt ame is its lf of v ry ancient d t .

e Gw r w e are s w r o Gow r ( y ), so told , come from g y ,

m h e a e e e a e t . crook d or curving, a d p rtur fro str ight lin

The a e th t the e a e ch ract r of e coas of p ninsula , v ry

I a o ne a e th e a e e ta e. Th e rregul r , m k s n m v ry sui bl old Gower extended mu ch further north than the

e i Of th p n nsula no w known by that name . North e

e ea Penclawdd e e e lin drawn from Swans to , it xt nd d between boundari es marke d by t he Tawe as far as

ta a the Twr ch and an e a Ys lyfer on east ; by the , irr gul r

a t he Twrch a a th e line dr wn from to Bryn mm n , on north ; and by t he Am man and th e Llwchw r on th e

es . the l e a w t In Midd Ages , this district was not

a t a w as e e e e p r of Glamorg n , but mor clos ly conn ct d

a e e with C rmarth n and Kidw lly . I n fact , it was an

e e i w as e the indep nd nt lordsh p , and only j oin d to

t he e . county of Glamorgan in reign of H nry VIII , when an Act of Parli ament was pas sed dividing th e

a Princip lity of Wal es into Shires .

Th e e hi e e arly hi story of Gower is dd n in myst ry . That it was t he home of pre -historic man has b een

t he e o f t he e s shown by r mains bon cave , and that it

was also a stronghold of t he Druidic ; faith is evident GOWER 1 5 7

he e - - from t remains of Druidism found on C fn y Bryn .

6 h e r th e t f th e In the t c ntu y , Pic s rom south of Scotland and the Saxons m ade a d escent upon this

e e a e e country . Th y s emed to h ve settled thems lv s

e e e e e the B n h r , but they w r driv n out by rito s or

h e ed Cymry under a North Briton named Uri en R g .

Tradition tells us that Uri en Rheged settled ' in t he

and country for some time, during which period , for a e e Rhe ed short tim aft rwards, it was known as g .

the 8 th e s e e In c ntury , the Dane mad th ir ﬁrst

e e e a . a appearanc on th s co sts I n their long, n rrow

th e e u a galleys ey mad sudd n onsla ghts , appe ring and disa eai‘ in a the e e pp g so quickly , th t country p opl h n not a e . e t e a e could j oin gainst th m In ti m , tiv s

e a e the i a e e guard d ag inst sudd n attack , and p r tes w r

n e a often defeated . O e such visit is r corded as h ving

e a e 60 e e d ea tak n pl c in 8 , wh n the invaders wer ef ted

ea S e The e r h e with gr t laught r. W lsh reco ds for t next

e e e e e e a e hundr d y ars r f r to th s pests sever l tim s, and to the efforts of the Welsh to defend themselves

e e against th m and their alli s , the Irish . Sometimes one th e a e side would gain adv ntag , and sometimes

e e e the oth r, but whichev r side won , the p ople of

we e e Go r suffered b adly from th s raids . The Danes l ef t lasting memorials of their visits in such place

e O Swe n-sea nam s as xwich and Swansea ( y , ’ e a Sw yn s inlet), in c mps and in barrows , which have

a and e e been scribed to them to th ir r latives, the

Saxons.

1 l th c saw i new i The entury the com ng of a nvader . 1 58 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

w as t he a w h o ea This Norm n , , inst d of only paying

e s a e e t he he plund ring visit , c me to s ttl in country

w in th e a e Th e a ea e w as might from n tiv s . Norm n l d r

de ew a a and he had Henry N burgh , E rl of W rwick , to ﬁght very hard b efore h e could Obtain possession of

e a e a e e ee t h e l and . Num rous b ttl s took pl c b tw n hi m

t h e e and w as 1 0 99 a he and W lsh , it not until th t was

e e abl e to make anything like a p eaceful s ettl m nt .

The Normans built many castl es to secure the land

e had w o n e e e a e th y , but th y w r continu lly b ing

h e a ea e t h e attacked by t Welsh . It is gr t tribut to w arlik e spirit of t he n atives that even the chu rch es erected by t he new lords of t he country wer e provid ed

i a e e e w e w th strong b ttl m nt d to rs , into which the peasantry could r etr eat for Sh el t e r wh en th e Welsh

n he made o e of their forays . During t reign of 1 e . 1 0 8 a a e e e i e H nry II , in , l rg numb r of Fl m ngs w re

h a e e e e h d s ettl ed in t e peninsul . Th s p opl a b een driven from th eir own country by an inroad of t h e

e w as e a e a t s a. It hop d th t th y would ssis in quelling t he t e e and a the urbul nt W lsh p cify country . Th ey w ere comp ell ed for a long time to defend th eir lives

e t and hom s wi h the sword .

For centuri es t he Fl emings lived among the Welsh

e a e the a rac ap rt , diff ring from n atives i n physical

e a and form , in costum , in h bits , in customs in language.

To this day th eir descendants preserve many of their characteristics . Distinctions of a marked character

a e e ee t he e and ' t he e were m d b tw n W lsh h Fl mings .

1 60 THE STOR Y OF GLAMOR GAN

“ Of a e a e The John , King Engl nd , grant d ch rt rs to ” “ ” e e The w e W lshmen of Gow r, and to English of Go r , which gave certain privil eges to each .

vn CHAPTER xx .

l an The Ro cks o f G amo rg .

THE oldest rocks in th e world ar e those which have

e he a ﬁre e e are been form d by t ction of . Th r none of

e e e ar e e a . th s igneous rocks, as th y call d , in Glamorg n

a e ee e t he a a e All our rocks h v b n form d by ction of w t r ,

are a e e e a . and known as str tiﬁ d , or s dim nt ry rocks

e e e e e Th y are r ally mad of mud , which was onc h ld in

e n a e . e susp nsio by running w t r This , aft r falling

sea a e a e a e e down to the bed of river , or l k , bec m h rd n d

a into layers or strat of rock .

Like the s u rface of the county the rocks may b e divided into two distinct groups and th ese groups

t he o ccupy corresponding districts . In north of th e county are th e rocks known as t h e Carboniferous or

- a e e t h e a e th e Coal be ring M asures , whil in V l chief rock is the Lias through which oth er and Older rocks

c e a lie crop out , or on whi h n wer rocks occ sionally . In the valleys and in t he immediate n eighbourhood of

a a ea a a b e C rdiff a gre t d l of lluvi l soil is to found , while on v arious parts of t he coast wind-blown sand is to b e seen in abundance . TH E ROCK S o r G LAMOR GAN 1 61

The rich coal measures Of th e north ern part of th e

e e o ne a the e county xt nd right from bound ry to oth r ,

as the ea e and t he p sing on st into Monmouthshir , on

e e On e west into Carm arth nshir . the north t hey xtend

e e i The e e for a short distanc into Br cknocksh re . s v ral beds in this formation lie within each other like a

Th e a number of pans . lowest pan , cont ining all th e

e a as a e a - oth rs , is rock known C rbonif rous , or Co l bearing

The e e are ee Limeston e . dg s of this pan s n cropping out on t he boundary of the coal ﬁeld . Within it lies a s econd pan or di sh form ed of the rock called Millstone

a a sa - th e a e Grit . It is h rd nd stone which South W l s ” ne a e e as w mi rs call F r w ll Rock , they kno that onc e

o ne e e e e this st is found th y will n v r ﬁnd coal b low it . The Millstone Grit also crops out all round the border of the coal ﬁeld . Lying in the pans already mentioned are the Coal — ea . lie e e 1 M sures proper They in three s ri s , the

e 2 the e a t he Lower Coal M asures ; , P nn n Grit ; 3, t

Upper Coal Measures . The Lower Coal M easures consist of a number of seams of coal varying in thick

f a ee e ness from a ew inch es to m ny f t . B twe en t he

e e S e e seams ar found b ds of hal , sandston , and some

a e times ironstone . The co l from the Low r beds is the

a s e a a e o e f mou St am Co l for which South W l s is so n t d .

e e e es the e ie Abov th s beds li Pennant Grit S r s . This seri es consists of coal seams and a hard kind of sandston e which is extensive ly quarri ed for building

Th a e and . e paving purposes co l from th se strata cakes . It forms spl endid hous e coal and is good for making

e e e s is i cok and patent fu l . L s coal found in th s seri es ' 1 62 THE STORY o r GLAMOR GAN

a t he e and the e et e f e th n in oth rs , b ds g thinn r rom ast

Th e e a e are a a e to west . Upp r co l b ds lso cont in d within

a er a t e are e e a a e l y s of s nds on , which v ry irr gul rly pl c d

a Th e a as th ey have bee n much worn aw y . co l found he re is v ery suit abl e for house c oal and for th e

- m anufacture of co al gas.

The coal w orke d on th e South W al es Coalﬁeld ranges in qu ality from t he bitu minous or hous e coal

e e e e e and as a t ( xt nsiv ly us d for cok g m king), hrough

th e e e ea a t t h e a a t e a smok l ss st m co l , in o nthr ci or h rd

Th b a t he u e m coal . e ituminous co l forms pper s a s i n

t he e t e t he and th e eam as rn portion of county , in s s

t h e wa ea and a work ed in S ns N e th districts . Steam

th e w e ea h e ea t h coal is found in lo r s ms in t st . It is e

a a e a t W e t h o al l T most v lu bl qu li y ork d on e c ﬁe d . he best steam coal in t h e world com es from t he collieri es

th e b a t h e e and t he in sins of Rhymn y Taff . Anth ra

t e in t he e t he a e ea ci is found district w st of V l of N th . The steam c o al ve ins gradually change as they run

e and a Of e - a w stward, form kind s mi nthr acite in t h e

e ea w e t he e h Val of N th , hil in w st of t e county th ey

e e a m e a t a e - b com l ost pur n hr cit . Over thirty tw o millions of t ons Of coal w er e rais ed in t he county in

1 9 0 6 e e t o e e , giving mploym nt ov r p rsons .

The Carboniferous Lim eston e li es under t he Val e

and t h e e a w e P ninsul of Go r , but is not cover ed by

h a e e t e co l m as ur s . North of Cardiff and st retching

in a n arrow strip from n ear Ll antrisant to t he

Rhymn ey runs an outcrop of an older rock than any “ yet mentioned . It is known as the Old Red Sand

1 64 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

CHAPTER XXVIII .

Ind ust ries.

THE industries of th e county compris e Agriculture

ac The e a the Mining , and Manuf turing . chi f we lth of

e - people is derived from its coal min s , iron works ,

e e e and industri s conn cted with them . Agricultur is only practised to any e xtent in t he low e r lying p ar ts of

a e se e a th e district . Coal mining is c rri d on in the v r l

e t he e e th e river vall ys , but chi f c ntre of industry is

he a th e basin of t T ff . Coke making is actively carri ed on in some part s of

The - the coal ﬁ eld . chi ef coke making dis trict li es

ee h e Taﬂf t he The e e b etw n t and Afan . cok is us d

nd ea ea in blast furnaces a foundries . A gr t d l is us ed

th e a w and a up at loc l orks , in similar works in Engl nd .

a e a are e e L rg qu ntities also xported to for ign countries .

a f el e at ff P tent u making is carri d on Cardi , Port

t h e w a Talbot, and in S nsea district . This fuel is com

e a a e e pos d of sm ll co l bound tog th r into a brick by pitch , o r e e a s a em som oth r subst nce , which act as c ent . The blocks of fu el are usu ally from t wo to three pounds in w and ar e e e e e . ight , mad in a numb r of shap s Most of the fu el made is exported for use in th e s team boilers

the e of engines of various kinds on contin nt . Next in importance to th e coal trade is the iron

was e the industry , which onc chief source of wealth

wa of the county . Iron working s carried on at a INDU STRIE S 1 65

e a e t h e and e e a s are very arly d t in district , in s v r l place

e a a e e e the r m ins of furn c s which , it is said , w r built by

a a are a e Rom ns . Rom n workings s id to hav been found in the n eighbourhood of Bridgend and Llan

Th e th e a e t risant . working of iron from n tiv iron

r h e e and o e was continued through t e c nturi s , traces “ a a e e e e of the sm ll furn c s , call d bloom ries , hav b een found .

The great development of the iron trade commenced a 1 7 e a a e o f bout 55, wh n method of using co l inst ad

e e charcoal for t he smelting of t he o re w as discov r d . To this period b elong t he b eginnings of t he great iron

e h e e works at M ert hyr Tyd ﬁl . Wh n t locomotiv was invented and m achinery w as employed inste ad of hand

a in t he a e an en l bour m nufactur of goods , ormous

e a e iro n nd e e e a d m nd aros for , a works wer e r ct d in m ny

a e . e e e th e e o re e pl c s Th s works us d nativ , but in tim , o a and e e e e res from Sp in lsewher w re used inst ad , as

e e e ea e l ed h i th y w r ch p r . This to t e clos ng down of

e t he a at ae e and som of works , s M st g Tondu . Another reason for closing t h e works w as th e invention of new

e a ea t he re proc sses for m king steel . As this m nt building of th e works it is likely t hat it h ad more to do w ith the closing of works than t he cost of carriage of

e or s from t he coast to th e works .

The iron and steel manufactures of the district are

e e ea Th e a e e chi ﬂy thos of h vy goods . c rriag of thes goods from works in the int erior to th e ports for ship

e a a the t a e m nt would run way with lot of proﬁ , or m k t he o o ds v e ea and e ig ry d r . The iron ste l products take 1 66 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN the ee a a a a ee form of iron and st l b rs , r ils , r ilw y sl pers ,

e e e S e e a e a a e w ldl ss tub s , h ts , pl t s , nchors , ch ins , cabl s

e e e e all and a e . impl m nts , ngin s of kinds, m chin ry

a e e ar e a at a ea Agricultur l impl m nts m de C rdiff , Swans ,

a a and e w e e Ll ntwit M j or , Bridg nd , hil colli ry trams and are a e at e e th e e the tools m d P nco d . In ast , iron

ee are b e a he e and st l works to found at C rdiff , t M rthyr

T dﬁl and y district , at Pontypridd . Port Talbot , in the

e t he a has a a e c ntral portion of co st , lso l rg iron works, whil e in t he west t he industry is carri ed on at Swansea and th e a e e e e and at T w Vall y , Gors i non , Gow rton ,

- Brynamman in the north west corn er of t he county .

Clos ely connected with t he iron industry is tin plate

a w t e e m king . Som e years ago South Wales as h chi f

t e a h e tin pla m king centre in t e world . At that tim

a o e w as e a t he our most import nt cust m r Am ric , but Americans put a heavy t ax on all tin pl ates imported into t he country in order to foster a tin pl ate industry

e in their own land . Th e tin plate trade in South Wal s

e e e a ea h r c iv d h vy blow, from w ich it is only j ust

e e a e a r cov ring . The situation of the county has m d it

e a e a as e e e favourabl spot for tin pl t m king , th r is pl nty

a and e e e a a of co l , iron , wat r n c ss ry for m nufacturing

The a e a t he purposes . county is lso w ll situ ted for

a importation of tin from Cornwall or from abro d . Tin

a a e at e pl te m king is carri d on Cardiff , P ntyrch , Ponty

r idd t h e e s at p , and Llantrisant in a t, and Aberavon ,

e ea e e ea Briton F rry , Cwmavon , N th , R solv n , Swans ,

e a e e e and Taw V ll y , Gors inon , Gow rton , Loughor ,

r a and a t h e e Ponta dul is , Bryn mman in w st.

1 68 TH E STORY OF GLAMORGAN and the richn ess of t he decorations w hich have be en painted on them .

e at a a e ﬂ at a ff Lim is burnt m ny pl c s , but chie y C rdi ,

B e e e a e at ridgend , and Penarth , whil c m nt is m d

- - n e a a . Pe arth , Rhoos , and Pont Neath V ugh n Flour

n is a e at a and a se milli g c rri d on C rdiff , Barry , Sw n a,

i a ea and and at Cardiff s large patent br d biscuit works.

e e are b e at a w a Cak factori s to found C rdiff , S nsea ,

n e a a d . Dowl is , Pontypridd Wooll n goods , comprising

and are e e ﬂannel , cloth , yarn , hosiery , mad at M rthyr ,

e a ea and ae Pontypridd , N ath , Sw ns district , C rphilly , and e e a e a e at and ac at H ngo d . P p r is m d Ely, tob co

ff a Cardi and Ab eravon . In the ports such rticles as

e e and e a a and e rop s (wir h mp), br ttice , s ilcloth , rubb r

ar e a e and e i goods , m d ; and shipbui lding r pair ng,

e s a saw the cr o oting and colour m king, milling, and ma a e O s ea e et c ar e e o n nuf ctur of il , gr s , . , carri d .

e and e are e at a C lluloid xylonit mad Aber von , and

s esto a a ee and ae a e a b s t B rry . B r r t d waters ar e made at t h e a e most of l rg towns .

CHAPTER XXIX .

Me f m ans o Co munic at io n.

THE earli est m eans of passing along from o ne part of the a e e e a a s county to noth r w r p ths or tr ck , worn out

’ by travell ers feet as th ey j ourney ed over t he easiest

e rout s . Thes e trackways in time b ecame regular

a a w e e e e ro dways ; but ro ds , as know th m , w r not ME A N S OF COMMUNICATION 1 69 1 70 TH E STORY OF GLA MORGAN

e t he a ea mad until Romans c me . You will r d of

e e a a a e a t e e t he a th s ro ds in l t r ch p r . Wh n Rom ns

e t th e e a e e a and l f country , th ir ro ds f ll into d c y ; ,

c a e e e ea t h e a Gla until omp rativ ly r c nt y rs , ro ds of

a e e t h e t e e a e e morg n , lik thos of coun ry g n r lly , w r

a e e th e a e SO e e e . h rdly d s rving of n m , poor w r th y

e e e a e r Now , how ver , th r is splendid syst m of oads all

e th e a ec ov r county, br nching off in all dir tions from

th e a a c e t he e ea the m in ro d , which ross s whol br dth of

e shire from east to w st .

Gl amorganshir e rivers were n ever navigabl e t o any

e e and t he wa e a ar e all a c o xt nt , t rw ys of artiﬁci l onstru

h e ca a - e e are t . e e a e a tion . Th s n ls Four of th s w t r w ys

a e ee e Th e e t nd m h v b n construct d . old s a most i portant

a a t h e a a e a a e a c n l is Gl morg nshir C n l , conn cting C rdiff n 9 1 a d e . e e 1 7 M rthyr It was comm nc d i n , and was

e e t raﬂi a f ew ea a e The e op n d for c y rs l t r . north rn e nd of this waterway is ov er 60 0 fe et above t h e

e e th e a end and th e a a h as e s l v l of C rdiff , c n l no l s

40 s a a e 1 1 1 5 e . a than lock in dist nc of 2 mil s In 8 , branch w as made frc m Ab ercynon through t h e Cynon

a V ll ey to Ab erdar e .

Th e a e ea a a w as c 1 79 1 V l of N th C n l commen ed in ,

a e t he a a e a a w as e shortly ft r Gl morg nshir C n l b gun . It

e e a a a e 1 4 runs from Briton F rry to Ab rn nt , dist nc of

m The e a il es . T nn nt C anal is also in t he Val e of

ea . e e a ea a ea N th It go s from Port T nn nt , n r Sw ns , to

a th e eat a e a a e e Aberdul is in N h V ll y , dist nc of ight Th miles . e canal is carri ed ove r th e River N edd on

a e t en e . w as 1 bridg of arch s It constructed in 822 .

ME AN S OF COMMUNICATION 1 73

e t he o ne t he s ways , so that altog ther county is of be t

served in the kingdom .

The main lin e of the Great Western Railway runs

he e s w e a a a e ac ross t county from a t to st , lmost p r ll l to

a an th e in the main ro d . Br ches run up river valleys

l i a the al directions . From Llantr sant a br nch follows

a e e a e e Pen rai Ely V ll y to Tonyr f il , and th nc to yg g i n

The l nﬁ e a a. L O the Rhondd y , gmor , and G rw Valleys

e B e th e are serv d from ridg nd , Tondu being j unction Ll nﬁ where th e lines divide . The y branch continues

r e a e w e th ough a tunn l into the Af n Vall y , h re it joins

a and a ea ss the Rhondd Sw ns Bay Railway. A cro br anch from Tondu j oins the three valle ys above

e i a i was mention d w th Porthc wl . At ﬁrst th s branch

’ intended for the c arriage of coal to Port hcawl for

e and o f h e r shipm nt , of ir n ore rom t port to the i on

e e and he a works at Ma st g Tondu . It took t pl ce of t he old tramroad that j oined t he Llynﬁ Vall ey with

Th e t he Porthcawl . decay of port and the closing of

the a e a s fﬁ works h ve don way with thi tra c , and the lin e is no w mainl y used for passenger trafﬁ c during

h e t e summ r months . This branch j oins t he main line

at Pyle ,

From Neath a branch (the Val e of N eath Railway) follows the N eath Vall ey to Hirwaun and th ence down

the e a Cynon Valley to Ab rd re . A tunnel carries the

e t he a e e e e lin into Taff V ll y , wh r M rthyr i s r eached . The Ab erdare branch also continu es dow n the Cynon

’ to e e Valley Quak r s Yard , wh nce it proceeds to

a v ia C rdiff and , Rhymney Junction , into Monmouth 1 74 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

Llancaiach e a s shire . From , on this rout , hort line n runs to M erthyr a d Dowl ais .

The Midland Railway in the county is a continua

e n tion of a line running from H reford a d Br econ .

e at e e e c one It divid s Co lbr n Junction in Br ckno k ,

a the w e a sea br nch running down Ta e Vall y to Sw n . Th e oth er section runs over t he N eath and Brecon Railway through t he Val e of N eath to t he town of

The n Neath . Londo North Western com es into the county n ear Pantyffynon and follows the Llwchwr w Valle y to Go erton . From Gowerton t h e li ne crosses t h e e Pe a ea and a a Gow r ninsul to Swans , nother br nch

e Pen l w Th e ea runs from Gow rton to c a dd . Gr t C entral Railway runs it s trains from t he c entre and

’ north of Engl and over th e Great W estern Railway s

e a a ff t he e lin s to C rdiff . From C rdi , train proc eds to

’ Ba a a Barry over the rry R ilw y s track .

’ Th e wTatf e a e a s Val R ilway is the old st line in W le ,

ne th e e th e was and o of old st in world . It com

nc d 1 8 36 and O e e afﬁ me e in , ﬁrst p n d for tr c in

The 1 8 40 . Ba main line runs from Cadoxton ( rry),

a f e a e through C rdif and Pontypridd to M rthyr . Br nch s run to Ab erdare from Ab ercynon to Treherbert (here

conne cting with the Rhondda and Swansea Bay) ; to

n b wl e e and e Y y sy , to N lson , to Cowbridg Ab rthaw from

e a e ae Pontypridd ; to F rnd l and M rdy from Porth .

The Rhymney Railway serves th e Rhymney Valley

f t a e and j oins Cardif to he town of Rhymney . Br nch s from Caerphilly run to Senghenydd and across the river into Monmouthshire Where the line connects with

1 76 THE STORY OF C LA MORGA N

CHAPTER XXX .

l a i n a a Po p u t o , L ng u g e and Ed ucat io n.

THE establishment of t he iron industry brought about a

ea ease a the e a gr t incr of popul tion in county . Th n ag in th e op ening of t he co alﬁeld in the latter half of t he l ast c entury has also i ncreased t he numb er of inhabitant s

e an e e e as t by l aps d bounds . Plac s wh re so rec ntly ﬁf y years ago only a f ew scattered houses stood are no w

e he larg and populous towns . The growth of t

s ee a a e indu trial districts has b n rem rk bl .

In 1 80 1 the population of the county was The population i n 1 90 1 was The increas e during the cent ury was therefor e

th e in t he the a e In towns the east of county , in V l Th e e S e . e and in Gower, English is g n rally pok n inhabitants of t he mining districts and the towns in

the es f o r the ea and w t , most part, sp k both English

e s e and ea Welsh , though p r ons who und rstand sp k Welsh alone are still to b e found in the hill districts where coal mining is not carried o n According to

th e a es e 55 e 1 0 0 th e ih l t t r turns , out of very of

a can e the e a 45 h bitants speak W lsh , while r m ining

speak English only .

The d escendants of the Flemings at Llantwit and Gower still pr eserve traces of their an ci ent

a e t he S ee th e O e ha l nguag in p ch of ld r in bitants . P OP U A T O L ANGU A GE T O 1 77 L I N , AND EDUCA I N

e ea a o th e e e a S e Som ﬁfty y rs g , p opl of Ll ntwit pok

e f and e a curious intermixtur O English W lsh , with o s me an occasional Fl e mish word thrown in . f ew place names on th e south coast and in Gower

are Of as The e O a e Danish origin , Holm s , xwich , Br c let

- B & a S e a c . (Bro d lad ) y , — — The Welsh Of Glamorgan t he Siluri an di al ect is

m th e ear a Of th e p eculi ar . It is s oother to than th t

n a e and e s surrou ding counties and North W l s , a ily

e Of the a e und rstood . Malkin , writing Silurian di l ct w c e a a and t a hi h is spok n in Gl morg n Monmou h , s ys “ A great numb er of w ords m arked as out of d ate in ’ a e e and at e D vi s W lsh L in Dictionary , print d about

1 630 are d m e , to this ay us ed in com on conv rsation

e throughout Glamorgan and Monmouthshir . The latter though reckoned an English county comes

ea e n r st of any to the ancient literary dialect . The works Of Tali esin and others Of the ﬁfth and sixth centuri es downwards to th e thirteenth are m ore readily understood in Monmouthshire and Glamorgan than in

e a any oth r p rt Of Wal es .

The reason may b e that during th e British Mo narchv after its deliverance from th e Roman

e ea e e ae e sceptr , the s t of gov rnm nt was at C rl on, in

e The a a e e e a e Monmouthshir . Siluri n di l ct th n b c m

a the e m e e th t of court or gov rn nt , and cons quently the e e u se w a e e dial ct of lit ratur e . Its s continued v n

t he a e and a e e . in courts of North W l s , mong th ir writ rs Their numerous bards from t he el eventh to th e ”

e e all e th e d ec . fourte nth c ntury , wrot in Silurian ial t N 1 78 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

M any modern authoriti es agree with M alkin that the Gw ent ian or Silurian di al ect as Spok en in Glamorgan

nd h e at t he e e da e a Monmout shir pr s nt y , is undoubt dly t h e Oldest and purest form Of t he li t e rary di al ects Of

Wal es .

Education in the county has much improved during

ea no w e th e Of the r ecent y rs . It is possibl for child poorest working m an to receive as good an educat ion

e t e as t he son of the richest gentleman . C n uri s upon

am a w as e e centuries ago , Gl org n r nown d for its

e . he and e t e educational glori s In t ﬁfth sixth c n uri s , Ll antwit Maj or and Llancarfan were great centres Of

ea ee e a Of th e l rning , and , during succ ding y ars , m ny n schools Of t he county became known in dista t places . No w again in t he South Wal es and Monmouthshire

e e e at a f a e Univ rsity Coll g C rdi f , we h v the successor

a a a a and of Ll ntwit and Ll nc rf n , in our public schools ,

t e e e a and e t h e e bo h l m nt ry s condary , succ ssors of schools establish ed in conn ection with many churches

in a The Gl morgan . University Coll ege at C ardiff was op en ed in 1 8 83in t he building form erly occupi ed by t he Inﬁrmary . It will soon b e housed in t he ﬁne

no w e e e e a a a buildings b ing r ct d in C th ys P rk . In

1 9 4 the Of a e wa e b 8 , University W l s s sta lish ed with

th e e e at a a o ne Of e e e coll g C rdiff s its constitu nt coll g s .

There is a Training Coll ege for wom en teach ers at

ea and e e e a a Swans , a coll g for pr p ring c ndidates for

’ t h e Of a at Ll n h Church Engl nd Ministry a daﬂ . T e

l a e was m e a e at e e tt r for rly situ t d Ab rdar , but in

1 80 THE STORY OF G LAMORGA N

CHAPTER XXXI .

Th e Cit y o f C ardiff .

THE City of Cardiff is a manufacturing and trading

e e a a a e n c ntr , a municip l , p rli m ntary , and cou ty

a e the a e a - e borough , a m rk t town , l rg st co l xporting

- he h W e ea t and t e a a . s port in world , c pit l of al s

a d t he Of the i e a It st n s on mouth R v r T ff . Sixty

e a o Cardiﬁ - y ars g was a small ill built town , with a

a e a a popul tion of l ss th n souls , but its popul tion

1 The reet tod ay is n early 0 0 times that numb er . st s are e e e e and e w ll built , wid , w ll pav d , light d, and many of th e principal public and busin ess buildings

e e Th e a a Of hav much architectural b auty . s nit tion

e e e and e a e the town is xc ll nt, its d ath r t compares very favourably with that Of any large town in the kingdom .

a e e e e t and e t he The rai lw y syst m is xc ll n , conn cts h town and the docks with all parts of t e country .

Th e ea e e a th e aff a e a Gr t W st rn Railw y , T V l Railw y,

h e e a a and th e a a all t Rhymn y R ilw y , B rry Railw y

e t t h e and th e and hav s ations in town , London North -Western Railway and th e Great C entral Rail

a w ay trains run into t he Great W estern town st tion .

’ Th e Cardiﬁ Railway Company s lin e from Llanishen on t he Rhymn ey Railway to Pontypridd is nearly

e and e the new ee 9 ﬁnish d , , in conn ction with Qu n L TH E CITY OF CARDIFF 1 8 1

e an a l e a e Al x dr Dock , wi l bring much fr sh tr d

t h w a e v e a e into e to n . A d ily s r ic of b rg s runs over t he Gl amorgan Canal to some of the principal

e ve a e e to wns on its cours . Whar s and w r hous s have b een built at each Of these pl aces for rapid transaction

e at are Of business . Thos Cardiff over a mil e in t l eng h .

The a a e t a a ff e p rli m n ry borough of C rdi includ s ,

t he the Of e with city , boroughs Cowbridg and

a has ee a Llantrisant . C rdiff b n borough for many

d h e e a e t e an as e e . c n uri s , nj oy d m ny privil g s It is doubtful whether its ﬁrst charter was granted by

Gwr an - ROb er t Fit z ham n T I estyn ab g or by o . h e

Old est charter extant is o ne granted by Hugh le

e D esp enser in 1 339 . Und r the Local Government

1 8 94: a w as e a e t Act of C rdiff d cl r d a coun y borough , and the summit Of its civic honours w as reach ed in

e the w as e e ea e 1 90 5 , wh n King pl as d to cr t the town a

e a e e e e th e City , and its chi f magistr t r c iv d title Of

Lord Mayor .

Th e municipal prop erti es include the tramway

e e e a and e syst m , el ctric light works , s cond ry el m entary

e k e e a and a e t schools , wat r wor s , g n r l ﬁsh m rk s , public

and e a free li brari es mus um , public b ths and gym

nasium a a r ﬁre a e e a , s n to ium , brig d and polic st tions ,

as e a a at ylum or m nt l hospit l Whitchurch , public

t h e a s and a e ce metery , and public p rk g rd ns .

new a a a The buildings in C th ys P rk , erected at

e e Of the great cost, compris som ﬁnest structures in

e e e the Eur op . Th y includ City Hall , where all the 1 8 2 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

fﬁ re e a e Law city O ces a situat d , and l rg Courts; In

a e a e e e ee th e t wo e Of 1 90 7 wid , long v nu b tw n pil s

w as O e e a e the and buildings p n d by His M j sty King,

e . e e a by him named King Edward VII . Avenu S v r l

e in a e ee are oth r public build gs h v b n constructed , or

e a a e in the cours of construction , in C th ys Park . Th y

e the e a e and a e includ W lsh N tional Mus um Art G ll ry , Cardiff University Coll ege and t he Registry Ofﬁce Of

’ h e Of a e e a t e Univ rsity W l s , T chnic l Schools , Boys

a e & . he a i Interm edi t School , c In t P rk is a Druid c

e e e e t h e Circl of unh wn Radyr Ston s , which form d Gorsedd Circle at the National Eisteddfod held at

Cardiff in 1 8 9 9 . Public monuments will also probably

e e he Th e a a b e er ct d in future in t park . N tion l M emori al to Welshmen who fell in t he South African

War b e e e e e e and t e e is to r ct d h r , also a s atu in m mory

e W Of t he lat Judge Gwilym illiams .

The chi ef reservoirs b elonging to the city are at

a e and e ee he T ﬁ Lisv n Llanish n , with thr in t a Fawr

a e . se a e ar e a V ll y The , with many sm ll r ones , c pabl e

a ea Of a of cont ining n rly million gallons w ter . Th e sanatorium e r ected n ear Canton in 1 8 93 is an

e t i e s a Of ﬁ ve a inf c ious d s ase hospit l , consisting p vilions ff and an isolat ion block . It a ords room for 1 1 6

e The - e pati nts . city also owns a small pox and chol ra

ar hospital and crematorium . These e situate d on

Th e new e e e Flat Holmes Isl and . c m t ry is about o ne

nd a e t he e e t he a a h lf mil s from c ntr of town . A mortuary and post -mort em room was op ened at Roath 1 9 in 0 5 .

1 8 4 THE STORY OF GLA MOR GAN

1 8 6 The Central Free Library w as established in 2 ,

1 The and was housed in the present building in 8 82 . features Of t h e Library are t he coll ection Of Books — t he e o ne Of t h e for Blind , and its coll ction — best in existe nce Of Welsh books and manuscripts . Th ere are branch librari es in differ ent p arts Of t he

and all th e are a e town , in schools school libr ri s in conn ection with the C entral Free Library .

The e w b a e the Mus um , which ill e incorpor t d in

a a e du e e at e e the N tion l Mus um in cours , is pr s nt in

h a a e Of same block as t e Libr ary . It is m inly illustr tiv t he a a Of t he and e Of n tur l history district , its coll ction

n e a and local rocks a d fossils is very extensiv . Loc l nation al antiquiti es occupy a prominent place in t he

e e the e e mus um , som of most inter esting xhibits b ing plaster casns of t h e best Sp ecimens Of C eltic c ar ved and

Th e e a a f t he e are e inscribed ston es . r g li O Gors dd k pt

e e . e e are a e th e Of e h r Th r m ny pictur s , work mod rn

Th e e e a il painters . M n l us Coll ection Of O paintings and the Pyke-Thompson Coll ection of water colours are

t e ar e e e e exhibi d . Sculptors r pr sent d by Milo Grifﬁth

d mb e e an . Gosco he a e a a W John , t l tt r n tiv of

h e h t e town . The mus um as also a good collection of

d a a ea e a and a e bir s, Nantg rw and Sw ns porc l in , larg coll ection Of Old Glamorgan and Monmouth engravings and oth er prints . CHAPTER XXXII . — l l T i rd ff . h e C t y o f C a i .

T ld n e hn— a HE O a d v nerabl e church of St . JO f mous for t he loftiness Of its proporti ons and the el egance of

a e — tan in h e e e t he w and its pinn cl s s ds t c ntr of to n , “ a e e has is v ry stately and b eautif ul structur . It a

e e a ea th e a a e Of h high tow r of p culi r b uty , p r p t whic is

ff C ardi in 1 8 0 2 .

richly carve d and crowned with four light Gothic ” the e The w p innacl es at corn rs . church as compl etely

e ee ea 1 8 8 6-9 and 1 - r estore d b tw n the y rs 8 9 7 8 .

’ a The pari sh church of St . M ry s formerly stood in

a ee a the e no w St . M ry Str t , ne r sit occupi ed by th e

w as e e Theatre Royal . It d stroy d by t he washing Of

th e a a ea e 1 60 7 T ff during gr t ﬂood , and f ll in . The 1 8 6 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

aff e e t h e e e e t ate e T th n ﬂow d down pr s nt W s g Stre t .

’ e e the a was e For som tim p rish j oin d to St . John s .

The e e a B e pr s nt church , which st nds in ut Street , was 4 built in 1 8 3. There are se veral o the r churc he s for mem bers of t he Church Of Engl and . All the Nonconformist denominations have erecte d numerous ﬁne and

Ma t r et a d ff r nt da . St. S e ese ry , C r i (p y) commodious plac es of worship in t he different parts

t he and t he a a e are of city , Rom n C tholics and J ws w ell provided for . The Universit y College Of South Wales and Monmouthshire occupi es temporary buildings in

e e a e a Newport Road . Th r is good t chnic l school in

THE CITY OF CARDIFF 1 8 9

th e a Of th e O e e Most of p rks , and some p n spac s have

nd c e o ne bowling greens a quoit pit h s laid out, and in

ar e or two cas es tennis courts provided . Sophia Gardens and Recreation Grounds are m aintained by t he

Of e e ar e e the t h e Marquis But . Th y und r control of

e a e Of e e are O e th e . But Est t ﬁc s , but th y p n to public

’ Th e small but very b eautiful Thompson s Park (Cae

e ea e Syr Dafydd) with its r cr tion ground , is maintain d

O e e t he . and p n d to public by Mr Thompson .

e ea a a a Though chi ﬂy a s port town , C rdiff is also m nu f u in e e re e e a e ee act r . a g c ntre Ther h r l rg iron , st l , and

e en e e copp r works , gin works , iron and brass foundri s ,

- and e and e ship building graving yards , pat nt iron ste l

e manuf act or h em e and a a t e l rop y , p rop s il and br t ic c oth

e a e de éts works , timb r , co l and slat p , ﬂour mills , a

a e a a e e e e e biscuit and p t nt bre d f ctory , br w ri s , cr osot

ease a and gr works , chemical works and railw y waggon

e e ar e a e works . Th r lso brick , til , drain and smoking

e red e pip s works , a ware pottery , rubb r works , tobacco ,

a and e e and am and e a ie cig r cigar tt works , j pickl f ctor s .

and t he ar e e e e e At Maindy docks pat nt fu l works . Th r are p aper mills at Ely and a tinpl ate works at M elin

rifﬁ h g t .

The Dowlais Iron and Steel Works on t he East Moors: are furnish ed with t he latest appliances for

a r a e e The c r ying on a l rg busin ss . works wer e moved to the coast b ecause t h e ore now comes chieﬂy from

and ea t o t he a e ‘ Spain , n rness port s v s carriage . The

n e and a e e a iro , timb r , p t nt fu l tr des of the town come

e e he n xt in importanc to t coal trade . 1 9 0 THE STORY OF C L AMORGA N

CHAPTER XXXIII . — l Th Hi f diff . . e st o ry o C ar

CARDIFF is supposed to have b een t he site Of t he

a Tibia A mnia e b ' A ulius Rom n station , occupi d y

Didiu e Of st o rius Of s, the succ ssor O , as commandant

he a e a e Cardiﬁ t Rom n forc s in Britain . The n m , , has — been derived by som e from Gaer Taf th e Fort Of t he — Taff but t he mo re pro b abl e derivation is from Gaer o

D idii— the f Didiu Fort O s.

During t he r ecent restorations of t he castl e walls some Of th e b est examples of Roman maso nry w ere

ea e e e e e e Of ea un rth d . Th y w r hidd n und r banks rth that stretched along the eastern and north ern sides of

e a The a a e Of th e th e castl are . quadrangul r sh p court had favoured the idea that t h e castl e stood on t he Site

Of a and e e e a e a Roman st tion , th s discoveri s h v e e the e e stablish d fact b yond qu stion .

The e a s masonry found consist d of w lls , ba tions and

a he Of e a gu rd house on t north gateway . cours only the we a Of th e e a e e e lo r p rts walls r m in d , but th r was enough to show th e nature Of the defences as th ey

a The stood in Rom n tim es . whole of the masonry has b een built into t he new curtain walls that are now

e e n aring compl tion .

Th e Lordship Of Glamorgan fell in 1 0 8 9 into the

f mo n He e O e Fit zha . e a a as hands Rob rt r t in d C rdiff ,

1 9 2 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

Turberville demand ed that the lord should lessen t he burdens put upon t he Welsh by means of t he F eud al

t . Fit zhamo n w as e a e and w as Sys em not pr p r d to ﬁght , obl ige d to grant to t he W elshm en the privil eges

ema e d nd d .

Fit zh am o n was succeed ed in t he Lordship of

a a e Of ae w as a Gl morg n by Rob rt C n , who lso known as

o e and f He a R b rt Consul Rob ert O Gloucester . took n

a h Of 1 1 0 6 important p rt in t e r eign Steph en . In

e e Of o r mand was ca e at Tench eb rai Rob rt , D uk N y , ptur d

his e e I. and w as t he e by broth r , H nry , put in car of

e Of ae Th e e a e a ff and Rob rt C n . Duk was c rri d to C rdi

e th e a e He e he e a e imprison d in c stl . r r m in d until his

ea 1 1 35 e a e a the d th in . A tow r , ft rw rds known as

C urth ose Th ta e e e as a . e e Tow r , s rv d his g ol tow r s nds

t he e h e ee over ntrance into t castl e from High Str t .

e ee ea t he a e e e e its e Duk Str t , n r c stl , r c iv d nam in

e Of t h e e m mory duk .

e e ae a e Und r Rob rt of C n , and l t r under his son

a a a e to e t he e a Willi m , the Norm ns gain tri d forc F ud l

h e a a e a System on t W elsh . Willi m lso took som l nd

e t h e e ab Meuric b longing to W lsh lord , Ivor , who is T e e a t h e e . h e e b tt r known s Ivor Bach , or Littl W lsh

1 1 he a e a e e a e u nd er Ivor revolted in 50 . T y m d d sp r t and sudden attack upon Cardiff Castl e and took it by

e storm , making the Earl and his Countess prison rs . Th e captives were carri ed to t he hills and were kept

m e and th e e t h er e until t he earl pro is d , king approv d

e a t he e Of a a Sh b e Of t he promis , th t W lsh Gl morg n ould r est or e d to th eir l aws and privil eges as in th e tim e of TH E HI STORY OF CARDI FF 1 9 3

l e e e t he How ell Dda. Ivor a SO succ ed d in r gaining

a a e Oil a t S an l nd t k n from him . An p in ing howing

e t t h e a a t a t h e t a incid n in ss ul h ngs in Ci y H ll . w d t h e 1 1 . He e H enry II . visite t o n in 72 pass d t e t o and et hrough , both on his j ourn y , r urn from ,

e e e he e e a w a m a Ir l and . H r r ceiv d rning fro monk telling him t hat if h e did not command a better

O e a e Of t he a a t m bs rv nc S bb th throughou his kingdo ,

e a e t NO e c rt in punishm n s would fall on him . improv m e ed and Old e a e a the nt follow , chronicl rs st t th t disob edi ence and r evolt Of his sons forme d t h e

e p nalti es proph esi ed by t h e monk .

e e ab Io rw erth e Of a e Ll w lyn , Princ North W l s , took

and e e th e C a e Of a 1 232 d stroy d stl C rdiff in , but it was

S ee e t b e d e a e t h e t e Of p dily r buil by Gil rt Cl r , h n Lord h ’ a a . t e a w ar a a t a Gl morg n D uring B rons g ins Edw rd II .

Roger Mortimer captured t he castl e .

' A number Of r eligious hous es formerl y stood in “ a e a e ee e b e as : C rdiff . Th y h v b n d scri d follows A

e e goodly priory found d by Rob rt , ﬁrst Earl Of Gloucester a priory Of Bl ack Monks or B enedict in es a house Of Black Fri ars (Domi nicans) in Cr ockh erb t on

Street (no w Qu een Street) ; a hous e Of Gre y Fri ars

e e c e t h e a d dicat d to St . Fran is , und r custody or w rdship

Of Bristol ; and also a hous e of White Friars

t e Th e a a a e e (Carmeli s). Dominic ns or Bl ck Fri rs w r ﬁrst establish ed at Cardiff in 1 256 und e r t h e p atronage m a e a Of ce e . e of Rich ard d e Cl r , E rl Glou st r So ruins

a t 1 830 e t e w e Of th eir house st ood until bou , wh n h y re

m e Th e a e e “ W hi e— ria a d e olish d . C rm lit s t F rs c me to O 1 9 4 THE STORY OF GLAMORGA N

h e 1 0 e the e Of e de t town in 28 , und r prot ction Gilb rt

e e e e e th e ea e a e Of th e Clare . Th y w r hous d n ar st rn g t

t h e r a e e i t town . In bu ial pl c b long ng to his priory ,

e Llewelyn Bren and his traitorous ex ecution r, Sir

em w e e e . The e Of William Fl ing, r buri d s al this order

e of friars is still in existenc .

a a a t he ea 1 40 4 t h e ea Lel nd s ys th t, in y r , fourth y r

Of t he e Of e O e th e r ign King H nry , w n Glyndwr burnt

e a t a e e e ed the w and south rn p r of W l s , and b si g to n

e a The a a e th e castl of C rdiff . inh bit nts s nt to king to ask e he e e e Se to for h lp, but n ith r cam himself nor nt

i e e . O e the w and the r r li f w n took to n , burnt the

e e ee a whole, xc pt one str t , in which the Fri rs Minor

a a e e e h e (Fr ncisc ns) r sid d , which , with the conv nt ,

a e n e h e He Sp r d on accou t of the lov bore them .

e d t he e e e c aft rwar s took castl and d stroy d it , arrying away a l arge quantit y Of treasur e w hich had b een

e pl ac d th er e.

Wh en the Friars Minor b egged him to return th e m their books and chalices w hich they h ad lodged “ t he a e h e e e e e a e in c stl , r pli d , Wh r fore did yo u pl c your goods in the castl e & If you had k ept th em in your convent they would have b een safe The

a w e e n e Of and Francisc ns r stro g support rs Richard II . ,

th erefore were w arm fri ends Of Ow en Glyndwr ;

e e e Of e u e he h nc his prot ction th ir ho s . At t Dis

Of t h e a e e the e Of the solution Mon st ri s , whol prop erty

Of the monks and friars Of C ardiff w as granted to the

e e t a th e a e a a e H rb r f mily , m t rn l nc stors Of the present

e Marquess of But .

1 9 0 THE STOR Y OF G LAMOR GA N

ew e e and a a e t he t he bards dr up , coll ct d , rr ng d laws and rul es governing th eir orde r .

h War e w ee During t e Civil b t n King Charles I . h a e th e c a e w as e t e . and his Parli m nt , stl h ld for king

e e Of ee a t h e a a e ta a It stood a si g thr d ys by P rli m n ri ns , but then fell throu gh t he treachery Of o ne of t he

The a w e Of a e e garrison . tr itor told Crom ll s cr t passage through w hi ch his m en could get into the

' f t h e e e h e had e e . S e O e e fortr ss In pit s rvic r nd r d ,

w a e th e a e a w a Of Crom ell h ng d tr itor , p rh ps by y

1 64 t h a exampl e to his own troops . In 2 e M rquis of

e a e a e a a t h e a and H rtford m d sudd n tt ck on c stle , r - e th e w as r e- e e captur d it for king , but it tak n b efore

n 1 645 e e ee lo g . In King Charl s sp nt thr nights h ere

m th e a e a after his ﬂight fro B ttl of N s eby .

The extent and form Of t h e tow n as it stood in

’ 1 61 0 can b e easily se en by a comparison Of Speede s

m f t he w m ap with a ap O pres ent to n . Many Of t he

ee t h e a e e and e e str ts still follow s m dir ction , som r tain

a e e h t he sam e n m s . It continu d much t e same until t he e Of t h e e ee e u b ginning nin t nth c nt ry , wh en Gl amorgan b egan to mak e r apid progress as an indus

e t 1 790 th e w tri al c n re . About to n consisted Of 30 0

e a a Of hous s , with popul tion

The iron industry h ad at this p eriod c om e into e e e and t he nee a e e xist nc , d for b tt r h arbour w as

b e f e t h begi nning to lt . At ﬁrst e iron from t he

was a e a the a Of e works c rri d to C rdiff on b cks mul s .

w as e e t he a e m a e Coal also conv y d in s m nn r . A road had been mad e bet w een M erthyr and Cardiff in order THE HI STORY OF CARDI FF 1 9 7

that l arge waggons could b e drawn to transport t he

d TO a e a ea e t he a goo s . m k tr fﬁc still si r , Glamorg n

e a a was m a e a a w as e a shir C n l d . A tr mw y th n l id , — and in 1 8 41 t he Taff Val e Railway t he pion eer

a a Of a e — w as e Co mmunic a r ilw y W l s construct d .

w t h w a e tion ith e works s now provid d , but with out a port and machines for loading and unload

e e a e b e a e . ing v ss ls , tr d could not c rri d on It is worth rememb ering that w h en the ﬁrst steam -boat put into Cardiff from Bristol in 1 8 32 she had to land

her passengers across th e mud on m en s backs .

“ Eighty years ago t he trade Of C ardiff was best represented by t he misc ellan eous freight carri e d in the hold Of t h e Bristol p acket which sailed out Of

d e a e a e Car iff twic e a week . A littl tonn g c m in from

e foreign parts ; it w as principally o ak bark . Oth r

a e e e w as e w as a e tr d th r non , for it h rdly worth whil

‘ ’ to consider the f ew bags of sea coals brought down from t he hills on mul es and shipp ed coastwi se up t he ” e e e a S v rn stu ry .

In form e r d ays t h e River Taff r an n ear t he street

now d e a e e call e Westgate Str et . A qu y for ships xist d

at t he e e ee o ne t h e a e n pr s nt Quay Str t , of Wh rves b i g

e e know n as Cannon Wharf . H r were shippe d t h e

a e e t h e e ea c nnon mad at M rthyr for gov rnment. Y rs

a o a w e e ea t h e ea e g ship as wr ck d n r Th tr Royal . It is rath er hard t o b eli eve this at t he present time when all

Th e e e f h this part is dry ground . pr s nt course O t e river w as formed by t h e railway comp any about 60

20 0 TH E STOR Y OF G L A MO RU A N

CHAPTER XXXV .

C a d f f C ast l e r i .

t h e no w e c e e WHEN building in progr ss is ompl t d , Cardiff C astl e w ill pr es ent to us an almost un equ all e d

f h w e picture Of what a fortress O t e Middl e Ages as lik .

Th e m a cast r u m w as a e and eem Ro n squ r , s s to have occupi ed mu ch t h e same space as that no w

h a e e t e a e a . nclos d by c stl w lls High , thick w lls

e t h e le a a ew a t h e ce e surround d who , with g t y in ntr

n w e e w e e Of th e north a d south alls . Th s r strongly

e e e and t h e a e e a e d f nd d , g t tow rs cont in d rooms for

t h e e Of t h e e a th e guards . Along lin outsid or curt in

v w a w e b a e e e at e l a e a . lls , to rs or stions w r ﬁx d r g u r int r ls

e e t h e w a c b e e e e . e From th s , lls ould d f nd d Insid

he c t m e w e e h e a Of t h e a t ourt hus for d r t bodes g rrison ,

and e a Of the a e Of t h e . , p rh ps , Rom n Gov rnor district We know t h e n atur e Of t he fortress from t h e remains w h m ich w ere brought to l ight so e t ime ago . Enough r emain ed to tell l earn ed m en what t h e r est w as like .

e t he a e e no t ee as t h e Wh n Rom ns l ft , it do s s m if

t e t h e t h ev e Bri ons liv d i n fort , or if did , th y did not

Th w nd m e e e a . e a e a k ep it in r p ir lls f ll down , , in ti , Mw nf w ec a e c e e w t e t . an a r b m ov r d i h ar h Morg y ,

e Of a a h ad e Of e m e at Princ Gl morg n , his s at gov rn nt

H t h e t . a Cardiff e live d in six h c entu ry . Morg n m a e had e Of e b ut w e w ust h v som kind fortr ss , kno

20 2 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

h Old a nothing of its nature . Perhaps t e Rom n walls were in pr etty good r epair in his time .

A littl e previ ous to the beginning of th e tenth h century t e town was destroy ed by a horde Of S axons .

9 A D Hen 0 0 . . was e a About , it r built by Morg n ,

a h d e the ea Prince of Gl morgan . Morgan a remov d s t Of governm ent Of his territory from Caerl eon to

a as th e e Old la O and C rdiff, sit of his capital y pen , w as subj ect to attacks by Saxons from the oth er Side

’ a e Th e new w as Of e e of Off s Dyk . town small xt nt ,

he e e Of was t hous s b ing built wood and mud . It a t he a and a a a ca a gain burnt by S xons , C r doc of Ll n rf n

a w 1 states th t it as r ebuilt by I estyn ab Gw rgan in 0 80 .

e a e e e a a e a t he I styn lso r ct d c stl , prob bly on mound

a th e e e ee on which st nds pr s nt ruinous k p .

e e Fit zham o n e e e n and Wh n Rob rt conqu r d I sty ,

’ a he Iest n ld e took his l nds , used y s O castl for a

He e e r esidenc e . vid nt ly thought it was good enough

. was e e e for him It l ft to his succ ssor , Rob rt, Earl

e a of Gloucest r , to build castl e according to Norm an

e s . t he e f e e t h e id a Early in tw l th c ntury , Rob rt built

e e e e ee h m nobl , tw lv sid d , shell k p on t e su mit Of t h e

The ee a . th e e e mound k p comm nds whol sit , and is

e e a h . t e e e th e e visibl for mil s round At sam tim , gr at

‘ t a th e u and s w ere b uilt cur ain w lls on so th we t , the remaining sid es b eing defended by th e banks Of earth

a e e a th t cov r d the ruins of the Roman w lls .

e t h e e e S a At this p riod , nclos d p ce consisted of o ne t he vast court , withi n which stood houses of

’ e t he a f t h e lord s r tain ers . AS rea w as O such vast

20 4 TH E STORY OF GLAMORGAN

e e t e th e fashio n of the Middle Ag s . Two oth r ow rs w rise on th e river f ac e Of t h e all .

One of t he ﬁn est rooms in t he cast l e is th e larg e

a a are c e e t a b anqu eting h ll . Its w lls ov r d wi h p intings

f e and e Sho wing scen es f rom t he lives O H nry I I . Rob rt

e te One Of th e ne a the of Glouc s r . ﬁ st is th t showing

C ar iff C ast d e 1 789 . l , e a e Of ee a w e e e t he sc p Qu n M ud , in hit rob s , ov r snow f O e a a a a e ea f rom xford Castl . An oct gon l st irc s l ds rom

a h d h h this h ll to t e library an t e private chape l . T e l atte r is lin ed wit h m arb le on which are shown e a e e e The and e ar e e e n m ll d shi lds . walls c i lings cov r d

The with paintings Of sc en es from th e Bibl e . altar CAR DIFF CA STLE 20 5

a e a r epresents t he tomb Of our Lord , gu rd d by Rom n

e e soldi rs i n bronz .

In early days Cardiff was the Cap u t or h ead Of t he

The Of a a Lordship of Gl amorgan . knights Gl morg n h eld their lands from t h e chi ef lord p artly under what ” e a e m w as call ed C astl e guard . In ord r th t th y ight

e d ut l o d in had b e e e p rform this y , g gs to provid d for th m

h a th e a e . e e e e t e e in c stl Th s w r built in out r courty rd , and o ne of t he group Of buildings known as the Shire H all w as standing at th e end Of t he Sixteenth

’ e The e a e c ntury . Shir H ll was the lord s courthous , and in it t he court for the borou gh w as also h eld . A

e a w as e t he sp cial w ll built to prot ct it , upon which

’ knights lodgings rested .

Cardiff C astl e w ith th e Lordship Of Glamorgan passed

e Fit zhamo n e a e e from Rob rt to Rob rt , E rl of Glouc st r ,

’ b e wh o had marri ed Fit zhamo n s daughter Ma el . Rob rt

e te w as e e a of Glouc s r succ ed d by his son Willi m , who

e h The a e and l ft only d aught ers as eirs . c stl lordship

e as e e e a a a e th n p s d through s v r l h nds , ﬁn lly b coming t he e e de a e a Of e and poss ssion of Gilb rt Cl r , E rl H rtford

The d e e e Glouceste r . Clares r m ain ed in poss ssion for

ea a e e t h e a e l e n rly c ntury , wh n lordship p ss d to Hugh

e e e t h e e w ho had a e a D sp ns r Young r , m rri d L dy

ea d e a e t h e ee e t he El nor Cl r . I n ﬁft nth c ntury

ea am a e t he e e a B uch p f mily , follow d by N vill f mily ,

e e t h e w e and h e t he cast le and w r o n rs , t n lordship

a e a a e t h e a Of e Of p ss d by m rri g into h nds Richard , Duk

e e a e a Glouc st r , ft rwards Rich rd III .

Wh en Richard was killed at th e Battl e Of Bosworth 20 6 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

nd a 1 4 5 & . e a a in 8 , King Henry V I gav C rdiff Gl morgan

e a e e e . to his uncl , J sp r Tudor , Duk of B dford When he e e a e e e di d , th y bec m Crown poss ssions onc more . Shorn Of all the privil eges which had b elonged to

nd e e e . a . e e a f th m , H nry VII H nry VIII l as d the l nds O

th e a e e e . a Lordship to Ch rl s Som rs t Edw rd VI .

a e th e t h e a gr nt d , or sold , castle an d much of l nd to

W a e a Of e e illi m Herb rt . E rl P mbrok , from whom th ey

a e e e e e e e e h v d sc nded to th ir pr s nt own r , the Marqu ss

e The a e w e a e ea s t wo of But . n m s h v r d in the la t

a a S and at eas p r graphs will how Cardiff boys girls , l t, why so many streets and pl aces in t he city bear the

a e n m s they do .

CHAPTER XXXVI .

The Po rt o f C ardif f .

B O a e e Of a EF RE we go on to tr c the ris modern C rdiff , it would be well to read the Opinions of government

fﬁ 1 30 1 40 a o e o cials some or years g , on the possibiliti s

a e e 1 775 th e of the port s a coal exporting c ntr . In , “ Cardiff Customs reported that no coal can ever be raised within this port in order to b e Shipped for e b e e w e d a e xportation or to carri d coast is , its ist nc from the water rend ering it too exp ensive for any

t e O a e 1 7 2 : such sale. Ano h r fﬁci l report d in 8 In regard to bonds likewis e as are given on the export a

a w e a e e tion of co ls , h v no coals export d from this

e e a e e port, nor v r Sh ll , as it would be too exp nsiv to bring it down here from the internal part Of the

THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN of t he c oal e xporte d is t he famous Sout h Wales Steam

a t he a w w as e e Co l , ﬁrst c rgo of hich xport d from

a 1 C rdiff i n 8 40 .

Th e Por t of Cardiff inclu d es also the harb ou rs Of

e a and a SO a w e w e e a ff P n rth B rry , th t h n consid r C rdi

a w e c e e e t e a b at as port , must onsid r th s o h r h r ours

h The Of a ff no t n t he t e sam e tim e . Port C rdi is o ly

a e a th e t most important port in W l s , but it is lso ﬁrs port in th e United Kingdom for Shipping cleared to

e e and th e e t he e e for ign countri s coloni s . It is pr mi r

h e w th n The port of t orld for e shippi g Of coal .

a e Of t h e d u e e import nc port is to its spl ndid position , and t h w e o t e excell ent do cks ith which it is provid d .

From its Situation it is well pl ac e d for carrying

a e w t he e e a w t h e on tr d ith Contin nt , with Am ric , ith “ e e ea and a ea and th e e e M dit rran n Bl ck S s , for S v rn

a e w t h e e a a th e Tr d ith W st Co st Of Afric . It is port from w hich th e st eam coal Of East Glamorgan can b e e t e ea and as is SO e e xpor d most sily , , it w ll provid d

a w a a e with r il ys , it is good centre for s nding goods to th e a s Of n a and t he e a Midl nd district E gl nd , for xport

Of a e t h e m e ti on goods m d in sa e districts . The P narth and B arry Roads afford safe anchorage for t h e largest

S hips .

The imports of th e port are valu ed at n early ﬁ ve

e f e million pou nds . Th y consist O w h at and oth er

a e and ea c Of all gr ins , ﬂour, liv d d sto k , food stuffs

- w and e e and e kinds , pit ood timb r , or s (iron copp r),

a a ma a e a e and e Th Esp rto gr ss for king p p r , sl t s ston . e THE PORT OF CA RD IF F 20 9

h are Of se al c e and a e e c i ef exports cour co , ok , p t nt fu l ,

a e a e e e a w a a a e but l rg qu ntiti s of iron , st l , r il y c rri g s ,

a w e m a ne a are e a e e h rd ar , chi ry , wh t call d M nch st r

e e e a e c a e and e n goods , cutl ry , g n r l m r h ndis , for ig and

-The coloni al produce are also s ent out from th e port . total valu e of t h e export s amounts to n early t en and

f a a e . The a O a half million pounds y ar qu ntity co l , coke and patent fuel expor t ed averages alon e over

e a ea twenty million tons w ight e ch y r .

w e h a e ea the w as th e o ne As v r d , ﬁrst dock built w no w know n as t he W est Bu te Dock . It is t enty a e in a ea and at t he t e w as a e cr s r , , im it m d , it

e Of in h n w as th e l arg st dock its kind t e ki gdom . The t rade Of t he port grew so much that t h e o ne

e u SO th e a e dock was not no gh . E st But Dock

w as O ne 1 51 1 74 at w a a e . e 8 . 8 s m d It p d in In , Ro h

Ba w as O e e and 1 8 8 7 a w as ea sin p n d , , i n , Ro th Dock r dy

a The a c and a ar e e for tr fﬁc . Ro th Do k B sin j oin d by

ee t e and h ee a lock eighty f wid six undred f t long .

o ne Of th e a e th e This is l rg st locks in world .

Th e e as no w O e af ha e But Docks , p n for tr fic , v a e e an a ea Of 1 61 a e and the a e e e ltog th r r cr s , l rg st v ss ls

a can b e a e e e . e e t h e t he a a aﬂo t lo d d h r B sid s docks , c n l has a ea eet Of a a w e e a lso n rly f qu y ge , h r sm ll

v e e can b e a e and ad On t h ss ls lo d d unlo ed . e canal

b n e e e a ks th r is ov r a mil e Of war ehouses . The docks are provid ed w ith the l atest machin ery for shipping and

a a the S e e e unlo ding c rgo in hort st possibl ti me . H ug

c a e are ea a e t h e e e e and r n s r dy to h ndl h avi st w ights , ﬁxe d and movabl e st aith es ar e provided for th e P 21 0 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

e Of The a e a e a e shipm nt coal . mov bl st ithes or tips n bl

b a e e . a ship to e lo ded in all her hatch s at onc This ,

e ea a can b e a e e of cours , m ns that ship lo d d v ry

can a e t a e quickly , and s il out of dock soon r han if lo d d

t he Old w a in y .

C ardiff is th e only place in South Wal es where

e The a e for ign cattle can b e landed . Board of Tr d

e b e e f ew th e p rmits this to don at only ports , as cattle imported must b e examined to see if th e y ar e free

e e a e a e . from dis as . The c ttl trade at C rdiff is v ry brisk

a e a are e t he c S a e L rg l irs built clos to do k , and l ught r

h e houses and chilli ng rooms are provided on t spot . a t he a e th e S e e In f ct , landing st g from hip l ads dir ctly

a d a e Of the into the y r s. Cold stor g rooms most modern typ e ar e provid ed for the preserving Of d ead

ea e e e e ee e m t and oth r p erishabl e goods . H r th y k p fr sh

e n and whol esome until th ey are r equir d for consumptio .

Th e and 1 9 0 7 a new port is still growing , in July , ,

e t he e e a a O e e dock , call d Que n Al x ndr Dock , was p n d

e Th e e e by His M aj sty King Edward VII . sc n s in

rdi e Ca ﬁ during the Royal visit were b eyond d scription .

Th e w as e th e e s w e e city crowd d , and r j oicing r on a

e a e e a th e e e e Of t he larg sc l . P rh ps pr ttiest c r mony

’ w hol e proceedings w as the knighting Of Cardiff s

- - h e working man Lord M ayor b y t King .

The ﬁrst ship to enter th e new dock w as th e Royal

e e a th e e a w as - a e Yacht . Str tch d cross ntr nce silk n

t h e ea Of the Of a ribbon , br king which by stem the y cht

e The has b ing the form al Op ening ceremony . dock an

area Of ﬁfty acres ; it is feet long and 8 0 0 feet

THE PORT OF CARDIFF 2 1 3

n The a u a a e a e a d breakwaters . h rbo r is lso f vour d bov all other Bristol C hann el ports by t h e poss ession Of a deep sea lock by m eans Of which vess els can e nte r or

e l eave th e docks at almost any state Of t he tid .

A s the port only came into existence within t he

a e ea a a a all l st tw nty y rs , it is but n tur l to ﬁnd th t

e machin ery is Of th e b est possibl e kind . Ov r

ee Of a e t a a e m a e f t qu yag , withou th t t k n up by chin ry ,

e a e e e t is provid ed for import trad . L rg spac s xis for

‘ t he a e Of e and e and a e stor g timb r oth r goods , w r houses ar e clos e at hand for t he storage Of p erishabl e

e a The t ea a a mat ri ls . impor s , n rly h lf million tons i n

e er e and o re w ight p annum , includ iron iron , building

a e a and e e e a e e th e e t m t ri ls g n ral m rch ndis , whil xpor s

e t en Of a e (n aring million tons), consist co l , cok and

e e a g n r l goods .

The imports Of the Port Of Cardiff are increasing in

a f n valu e . An incre se O n early o e million pounds has

een e e th e a ee e The b r cord d in l st two or thr y ars . valu e Of the imports at t h e pres ent time is littl e

Of ﬁv e a ea The e short million pounds y r . xports , too , ar e the e e e e a Of e and on incr as , sp ci lly for ign coloni al

The e - goods . valu Of foreign goods r e expor te d no w amounts to nearly whil e hom e products are export ed to th e valu e Of n early t en and a h alf million

er a m a e e h a pounds p nnu . C rdiff lik Swans a as good

a e ea a e th u ﬁshing tr d . St m tr wl rs from e port p t out to the and e e t he Ba f Irish ﬁshing grounds , v n to y O

a ea Of t h a a Bisc y in s rch ﬁsh for e loc l m rket . 21 4 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

CHAPTER XXXVII .

Ll andaff .

LLANDAFF stands about a mil e from Cardiff on the

f Th e o ne O th e a . e a banks T ff two pl ces are n arly , and b efor e long Ll andaff will most likely b e included in

a a an C rdiff . Lland ff is only import t on account of its

’ Speed s Map o f Llandaff

a e the e history , and bec us it contains chi f church Of

a w as e o ne Of t he e e e wh t onc rich st Dioc s s in Britain .

It is claimed for Llandaff that it is the spot wh ere

h e e w as ea e t Gosp l ﬁrst pr ch d in this country . That

b e e e may so , but th r is not much doubt that here t he

a a a ﬁrst Christi n Church in Brit in was built . Ap rt

he a e a t he e n from t c th dr l , littl city contai s t he ruins of

21 6 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

e e a e S e hat a if it has b en r p ir d inc t time . From Cross

e th e e al w 1 1 8 j ust opposit castl , Archbishop B d in , in 8 ,

ea e t he T a e . e he was ea pr ch d hird Crus d Wh n pr ching ,

he e t o ne e Of him and t he t W lsh s ood on sid , English on

e e a e e re a a t h e t wo a e t he oth r . P rh ps th y w fr id r c s

a e ea ea O t he might ﬁght if pl c d too n r ch oth er . nly

O h e e e t Old Th e a Of bas e f t pr s n cross is . popul tion

af a 60 0 b u t h e Ll and f City is only bout , in t parish are abou t peopl e .

The Dioc ese Of Ll andaff takes up all Glamorgan

the e e e wa and the w e Of from Riv r N dd w st rd , hol

e . O e e w Monmouthshir In ld n tim s it as much larger .

a it s ea We do not know much bout rly history , though a church is s aid to have b een fo unded here early in t he

Th e ame Of h e ea se cond c entury . n s t rly bishops are

e it e e e e e e record d , but is v ry doubtful wh th r th y w r

Th e e e a e as a really bishops . ﬁrst p rson r g rd d bishop

D f ri Beneu ro — D ub ritius t h e e ea e w as y g g Gold n H d d , who w as m ade bishop in t he ﬁfth century by Saint

The m an e e D f ri and a G armon . who h lp d y g G rmon to

h e ee was Te wdric e Of a fo u nd t s , Princ Glamorg n at

T wd ric w a e h e . e s t e a and h this tim ki ll d by S xons , e

T wdri h e e a e . e c t e a . is som tim s c ll d St , M rtyr

m t h e e Of D f ri t he e e da t h e Fro tim y g to pr s nt y , long

f h Of Llandaﬁ e a roll O t e Bishops runs unbrok n . M ny of thes e were clos ely bound up with e vents that h elped

h e Of t o make t history our county . In thos e days t h e Of a a w as a e th e a Bishop Ll nd ff pow r in l nd . In

a m e t he e t he a Of a an Norm n ti s bishop h ld r nk baron , d LLAN DAFF 21 7

e as a e a a e this in addition to his pow r cl rgym n , m d him a person to b e fe ared .

’ i He e e as Dyf rig s s ucc essor was Te lO. is m ntion d

- f h e He w as a e being t he co founder O t e s e . v ry holy

O a e h e e ee e w a e man , S holy th t wh n di d , thr church s nt d

’ TO e e th e e t a a e e his body . s ttl disput h t ros , T ilo s body

ac is said to h ave divid ed its elf into thr ee bodi es . E h

he had t he Of c e church t n honour burying his orps , but

Llandaff al ways claimed t o have buri ed his r eal o ne .

A iddan was a bishop that lived in t he eighth ce ntury . D uring his t i me t he Saxons invade d Glamorgan i n

n a ea a Of He e m e a d e a a e . l arg nu b rs , did gr t d l d m g

A D . w as kill ed by th ese pirates about 720 .

- w as a Mar hlw Th e twenty fourth bishop n med c y s.

‘ He was a bishop whe n Morgan Hen w as Princ e of Dd f a a e a O a e . Gl morg n , and How ll was King South W l s Marchlwys was o ne Of th e deputation s ent to Rome to see the e a t he a we Dd a had Pop bout L ws that Ho ll made .

’ Bl e wr d ab Ow e a Hé n s w g y n , Morg n brother , who as

a e Of a a e w h Ch nc llor Ll ndaff , lso w nt ith t e mission . Blegwryd w as noted as b eing o ne Of t he ﬁrst scholars H and l awyers Of his day . e playe d a great part in

the a t h e e a Marchlw dr wing up of W lsh L ws . y s died 9 4 in 3.

Ble dri w as 9 9 3 1 0 2 wa a , who bishop from to 2 , s

ea a and was Bled ri t h gr t schol r , known as e Wis e.

SO n w as h e Of e a h e ma e fo d l arning , th t d his pri ests

form schools throughout his diocese in ord er th at th e

b e e e t . e e p opl might aught His succ ssor , Jos ph , con

e th e and e e t he e tinn d schools , ord r d pri sts to teach t he 21 8 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

e a h e e . B p eopl to re d t Bibl , for nothing ishop Joseph

a 1 1 0 7- 1 1 died in 1 0 50 . Bishop Urb n ( 33) rebuilt t he

w as a cath edral . It in ruins on ccount of the ravages i t he a e The O e t had suffered from D n s . ld st p arts of

r the pres ent church a e of his work .

For over four hundre d years the bishops do not claim

e e 1 545 any sp cial m ntion . In , was appointed Bishop

w as t he t Kitchin , who wors bishop who has held the

H he e e Of t he see. e e t e e Of l ft dioc s one poor st, inst ad

one Of t h e e the . e w rich st , in country Wh n he as made

was a e a bishop , Kitchin Prot stant, but no one was bigger Roman Catholic than h e wh en Qu een Mary

SO e h he c ame to the thron e . z alous was e for t

a Of e h e e and C tholic form r ligion that hunt d down ,

e e a e e a cond mn d to de th Rawlings Whit , a ﬁsh rm n f ff O Cardi .

e a e e a ee Wh n Eliz b th b c me qu n , Kitchin again

f all h h a a . O t e e he became Protest nt bishops , was t only

f e o ne that took the Oath O Supremacy . V ry different

a who from Bishop Kitchin was Bishop Morg n , was

a h appointed in 1 59 5 . Bishop Morg n commands t e

em e a e es e and e Of all e r mbr nc , r p ct , gratitud tru

e he a e e e a Welshm n , for g v us the ﬁrst compl t tr ns

Of t he B e e e Th l lation ibl in our nativ tongu . e O d Testament and some other books were entirely

a e He a e e e transl t d by him . lso corr ct d a W lsh version

he New e a e had ee a e of t T st m nt , which b n tr nslat d by

1 60 1 a w as e . e other p rsons In , Morg n mad Bishop

a w e are of St . As ph , but proud to think that he was

Of e e at o ne time bishop our own dioc s .

220 TH E STORY OF GLAMOR G AN

t h e e t he a Of t he a e e him , cl rgy ( C nons C th dral th y w e e a e e t he Of e e r c ll d), stripp d church v rything of

e e d e t he am e e e . val u . Th y ivid d spoils ong th ms lv s Eve n t he ston es from t he ﬂoor were take n up and

1 5 7 t h e Of t he w as sold . By 5 , condition building so b ad that t h e cath edral r ecords state t hat h e re ” z e a & the t Of Horses gra e and pigs gorg . Al s pi y it .

nd a e e e e e no t t o b e By a by , chor l s rvic s w r stopp d ,

a 1 7 carri e d on ag in u ntil 8 3 .

Do rw a Norman o y .

Th e r estoration Of th e church to its present form

1 6 and w as e e 1 9 was c e e 6 . omm nc d in 8 3 , compl t d in 8

a Of ea e e It cont ins several things gr t int r st . Behind the alt ar is a beautiful ston e work scre en call ed a

e e . has ee a e h are a r r dos It thr p n ls, in w ich p intings

t he e a e a e e T e a e . he by c l br t d rtist , Dant G bri l Ross tti LLANDAFF 221 outer pan els represent David as a Sh eph erd and D avid a a e t he e a e a a e s King, whil c ntr l pan l cont ins pictur

Of h e Of t Birth Christ . The chi ef tombs in th e cat h edral are those Of

D f ri nd t he e Of he s e Th . a . e t e . e St y g St T ilo , found rs

e a Of e He tomb of Sir David Matth ws is lso int rest .

n f at ra Lla da f C hed l .

a a n a t he a e was St nd rd Be arer to Ki g Edw rd IV . at B ttl

Of h ha e h e and Towton . In t e Lady C p l is t tomb

e Of d e Br o e u t he e . fﬁgy Bishop a s , who b ilt chap l

de Br o i 1 t he e Bishop a se di ed n 28 7 . Near w st door

’ ar e e - n e are t he n som , war worn ﬂags . Amo g th m Ki g s a d e e Of th e e e e n R gim ntal Colours W lsh R gim nt . 222 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

B e a ee a e eside th ese are brass s , which h ve b n pl c d in m emory Of t he Ofﬁcers and men Of that gallant

e regiment who have fall en in battl .

CHAPTER XXXVIII .

s Th e Mert hy r Di t rict .

F Of ea MERTHYR TYD IL , with a population n rly

e is the third largest town in Wal s . It stands on

th e T ﬁ e the upper reaches of a , almost on the bord r nd in between Glamorgan a Brecknock . It is situated

e i . a bl ak distr ct , and is surrounded by high mountains This makes th e rainfall for t he town o ne Of the highest

a a e the in the county . For m ny ye rs M rthyr was

a e Wales and e l rg st town in , it ow s its size and prosperity

th e n to iron a d coal industries .

M erthyr Tydﬁl (Merthyr = m artyr ) takes its name from an ancient W elsh princess n amed Tydﬁl who 4 A D e e a 20 . . was martyr d n ar by, bout , by a band of

a e and e e p gans . The town , with Aberdar oth r plac s in t he e a a e n ighbourhood , forms a P rli m ntary District

e r turning two m emb ers to th e Hous e Of Commons . For m any years efforts were made to Obtain Municipal

e was pow rs for the town . A commission held to

e e the a e a er nquir into c s , with the result th t M thyr is

now a borough town .

A cel ebrated writer once described the growth of Merthyr as being more rapid than that of any town in

224 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

Th e great d evelopment of t he Cyf arthf a works w as

ue Craw sha f amil w ho a e th e d to the y y , c m into district

1 e e at Pen darren and in 1 79 . Works w r also built y

h ad a e th e w m t . e e a e Ply ou h B for m ny y ars p ss d , orks

Of t he M erthyr district w er e r enown ed f ar and wide . The annual output Of iron no w amounted to t housands

a e h e ee e Of the Of tons . M ny d scriptions av b n writt n w ﬁne sight afforded by t he works h e n in full swing . Th e Penydarr en and t he Plymouth works ar e now

e and ee are a e at w and clos d , but iron st l still m d Do lais

f rt hf a Cy a .

TO a e ea e a a &c . t o m k it si r to c rry iron bars , r ils , ,

he sea a t h e a n e a a w as t co st , Gl morga shir C n l cut during

w a t h e years 1 79 1 and 1 79 8 . A tramroad as lso built

h e a e e t he a e n aw b e . for t s m purpos , tr ms b i g dr n y hors s

On a a 1 80 4 ran th e ﬁ t e e this r ilro d , in , rst s am locomotiv

w e e w a m a that as inv nt d . It s ade by a Cornishm n

e a nam ed Trevethick . It pull d load of iron from

Th e e e e a e a a n. M rthyr to Ab rcynon , th n c ll d N vig tio

ee e t h e t a and t h e t t h e e st pn ss of r ck , urnings on r turn

e e u t h e en e w w as j ourn y , prov d too m ch for gin , hich

a e h t e e pull e d b ck to M rt yr by horses . Af r b ing e mployed for som e tim e about th e works it was l aid

n e a Had th e e ee on o e sid to rust aw y . inv ntor b n e a e e en e e a h ncour g d to improv his gin , it is possibl th t e woul d h ave mad e a useful locomotive b efor e G eorge ” n e e Th e Steph e son inv nt d e Rock t .

Locomotives did not c om e into gener al use in South Wal es for n early forty y ears after t h e trial run Of

’ e n e The Trev e thick s High Pressur E gin . ﬁrst railw ay THE M ERTHYR DISTRICT 225

— — in Wales t he Taff Val e Railway w as Op en ed b etween

1 8 41 e Cardiff and Merthyr in . This lin proved Of great value to t he iron trade which increased by l eaps

nd th e e a Of t h e the a bounds . In arly d ys industry

e and o re e th e th iron ston was min d on spot, and e coal and e e e S e e e lim ston us d for m lting purpos s w re , T and are O . he o re no w still , btained locally used comes chi eﬂy from Spain . Most of the works no w

e ee e e produc st l , but som iron is still mad . Gr eat improvements have been made in th e construction Of t h e a e and th e e e are a e furn c s most mod rn m thods dopt d .

a e e e e th e Co l mining is xt nsiv ly carri d on in district, and nailm akin e e g, iron founding, br wing and w aving, are other industries .

The following extract may b e Of interest as show ing t he diff erenc e b etw een t he state Of t he coal

a e ea a and and Of the w tr d in rly d ys now , curious ay in which some Of the business w as transacted The farmers Of t he neighbourhood wer e in the habit Of

a a a Of e . e and o n t king s ck lim to Mr Gu st, for e

a e e e e e a Of e e h lfp nny th y r c iv d sack coal in xchang .

Th e e e a e a e e Of load, g n r lly born on hors , consist d

SO e t he t hree sacks . with his cargo of lim sturdy

ld e a e a and m O farm r would tr v l to Dowl is , ake t he e a e e e and e o ne a xch ng , r turning hom mptying s ck

e e th e e t h into his outhous , divid coal qually into ree

a e e a e t he e e e s cks , th n r pl cing th m on hors , ith r t he

e d he h e sam ay or early i n t morning, would travel

e and e e as f ar as n to Br con , , som tim s , Ki gton , in

e e e e a H r fordshir , and s ll his bl ck diamonds for Q 226 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

The a - a ea d a tenpence t he sack . h lf crown , gr t e l in

w as he t h e et and his thos e days , t n put in pock , on return home still more securely put aside for the ” e r nt .

f a e 420 A . D . a a O an In , b nd Irish Picts m d

and e T dﬁl t he incursion into this district, kill d y ,

Of Br chan e a daughter y , Princ of G rth Madryn , in

’ e T dﬁl s e ﬂ ed w a Breconshir . y broth r , Rhun , , but s captured and Slain by the pagans near a Spot at f d e . e d Tr oedyrhiw , still call d Pont Rhun N y ab Rhun

“ e He e e a f e e a . O manag d to sc p coll ct d body men , and

e l . t he Picts SO e e a e e ea all f l on , ﬁ rc ly th t th y w re n rly put to death .

The a Sam Hir ran ea t h Roman ro d , , n r e town

a e e a e Of M ert hyr . The n m is still k pt liv in Pont

e th e a h Sarn . It is suppos d that Rom ns ad an e a a a ea th e t a nc mpment or sm ll st tion n r own , s pottery

a e a a e ee e and other Rom n r m ins h v b n discov re d . At . h a e t he a t e Norm n conqu st, m nor in which M erthyr

ﬁ w as e an a e a sta ds giv n to nc stor of Ivor B ch . Ivor

e e e e at t he Old e is suppos d to hav r sid d Court Hous ,

e 1 1 5 ew e e a e e r . 3 a Of M thyr In , Ll lyn Br n , d sc nd nt

e ea e t he ar Ivor , r tr t d to this district from English my

He e e a . e e s nt gainst him h ld out for nin we ks , but

e w as then forced to surr end r .

Merthyr has b een the scen e Of thr ee riots

T e e e . h a e 1 consequ nt upon strik s ﬁrst took pl c in 80 0 . The masters and m en failed to agree ov er a question

f e e e t a h O wages , and a strik r sult d . S arv tion stared t e

e e in and the m en e the p opl the face , brok open shops ,

228 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

Th m and threw the provisions into the street . e ilitary

o e e h Tw o Of t h e wer e sent for t ov raw t e mob . 1 1 e e e a e and a e . 8 6 ringlead rs w r c ptur d h ng d In ,

e m e The another diff rence arose from a Si ilar caus . workmen on strike came in conﬂi ct with t h e supporters w e a e e e e . Of the mast rs . The l tt r w r arm d ith picks Th e strik ers ass aulted th eir Oppon ents with show ers

f a e e e On O stones , c using th m to run for sh lt r . this

o ne e th e end th e m en occasion no was kill d , and in were forced to give in .

The e Of th e 1 1 most s rious riots took place in 83 .

d e e an e e . Wages w r e low , pric s w r high Failing to

O an e e e t he m en e e btain incr as in wag s , w nt on strik .

h e ee th e e e e T e mast rs , s ing that strik rs wer b coming

a e e . a e unruly , s nt for milit ry prot ction A det chm nt

h e r d a e w as e th e of t 9 3 Highl nd rs s nt to town . Th e m en a e ee th e e carr in O m rch d to m t soldi rs , y g a loaf f bread as a symbol to show that bread w as all t hey

The O f e a n th wanted . f ic r comm ndi g e Highl anders was urged by the frightened m asters to order h is m en H e . e ee a t h to load their riﬂ s , s ing th t e crowd was a

e ea e o ne e a Of the p ac bl , r fused to do nything kind .

Th e S l dier s ea t h e s e e ea e p r ched Ca tl Hot l in p c , but an ill -advis ed speech by o ne Of th e masters aroused th e anger of t h e mob . A savage attack w as made on the e and t he e e hous , strik rs tri d to Obtain possession

’ e Th Of t he soldi ers riﬂ s . e maj ority of t he soldi ers stepped into th e Castl e Hotel and op en ed ﬁr e on the

t he and mob from windows c ellar . After half an

’ e e e e hour s ﬁght , during which sixty p opl w re kill d , THE MER THYR DISTRICT 229

e e e e e the mob was disp ers ed . Mor soldi rs w r s nt to

f t h e he and h e ke e e . e e a O t town , t stri nd d S v r l One m an ringleaders w ere arreste d and imprison ed . ,

e e e w as e e e Richard L wis (Dic P nd ryn), x cut d at

h e t he Cardiff for suppose d promi nence in t riot , but p eopl e generally considered him to b e innocent Of any

O e e ff nc .

Cyf arthf a st ands - about a quart er Of a mil e north

e a e ee ar e w st Of M erthyr . L rg iron and st l works

e e e e and e e ar e a e e a e e . r cted h r , th r lso s v r l colli ri s

ee a e a a e a e ea St l rails and b ars are m d on l rg sc l , n rly

r t ons b eing produce d every yea . Should

ea e e a a e e a a incr s d d m nd ris , doubl th t qu ntity could b e a a Th e Of t h e m nuf ctured . e northern t rminus

am a e a e e e The a a is f ed Gl org nshir C n al li s h r . c n l by

e ﬂ t h e . the Riv r Taff , which ows through works

C f art hf a a e e e t he y C stl , a mod rn buildi ng , ov rlooks

s and th e work town .

B ehind t he castl e is Morl ais Hill on which are t h e ruins Of Morlais Castle built by Gilb ert d e Clar e in t he

ee Th e t h e s e thirt nth c entury . ground on which ca tl stands w as the caus e of a quarr el b etwee n de Clare and t he a Of e e an a Of E rl H r ford , ccount which will be

a a e e Th e e e ea e found in l t r chapt r . most int r sting f tur Of th e castl e is a vaulte d polygonal chamb er in the

e Of a basem nt wh t s eems to have formed the keep .

a a a e a f e Dowl is , l rg town with popul ation O ov r

a t w o e -ea Of T dﬁl is bout mil s north st Merthyr y .

The are n towns conn ected by a el ectric tramway . The Dowlais iron and copp er w orks and the colli eri es

232 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

e c e e ar e at t e t he chi f do ks , how v r , Bri on F rry on mouth

f h eat a Se e a ﬁ ne O t e river . N h cont ins v r l public build

t h e e e t h e and w a . ings , chi f b ing Town G yn H lls

' — A ﬁne a e Of t he a e e w . a st tu l t How ll G yn , Esq — gentl em an w h o did much for th e town stands in front

a Of Gwyn H ll . Th e f e c Of th e ollowing d s ription district , though

6 ea h d w e at ea 0 a o e at t e e e a . ritt n l st y rs g , is tru pr s nt y

t n l Nea h i 835 .

“ the n m ea t h e Towards orth , looking; fro N th . broad top Of March Howell towers abov e all t he surrounding

and a t he e u e t w o hills : , southw rd , vi w is bo nd d by

lofty e min ences call e d t h e Fo el and Mynydd y Gaer . Th e form er 1 s distinguish e d by t h e chimney Of th e

e a and t he a e e copp rworks in Cwm von , l tt r crown d

i an a e e e e e e e W th nci nt ncampm nt , wh nc it d riv s its

Th e n t t he n ame . surrounding cou try , hough poor on NE ATH AN D B RITON FERRY 233

— a e has e a e e t he e surf c , in xh ustibl rich s in int rior for Neath is n early the ce ntr e Of the great coal basin Of

e South Wal s . “ Ve ins Of this valuable min eral may b e seen cropping out on t he hillsides in t h e n eighbourhood .

A Maid o f Glyn Ne ath

(Fro m an Old p ri nt) .

Much of t h e coal found in this district is calle d

a t ac e and e e n hr it , is much us d for li m burning and

a t and a t he m an ac e Of . m l drying , lso for uf tur iron

e c e a e a e and th e Iron ston is found in onsid r bl qu ntiti s , hard sandston e Of t h e coal formation affords cheap 234 THE STOR Y OF GLAMOR GAN and a a e d Th re dur ble m t rial for buil ing . e hills a

e e e a e e e e penetrat d with coal l v ls , and the tmosph r , v n

Of e and a e a e t he s cluded rom ntic gl ns , is d rken d with

a a a e a smoke of v rious m nuf ctori s , which alw ys ﬂourish ” e e most wh r coal is pl entiful .

ea e e a a and N th is w ll serv d by v rious railw ys , a new the ea a e and Br naman railway , N th , Pont rdaw , y

a O e e a R ilway , will p n up a district t eming with miner l

ea The a e h w lth . gre t r sources Of t e neighbourhood have largely help ed to mak e th e town very prosp erous .

One Of e e Of e its chi f industri s , that copper sm lting , w a e a th e r e Of The s st blished in ign Elizabeth . other works are engaged in t he manufacture Of tin

a ee ﬁreb r icks e a a pl tes , iron , st l , , ch mic ls , g lvanised

S e and e . and a he ts , til s Iron br ss founding, coal

e are a a e i e e e mining, and br wing, lso c rri d on , wh l th r are e e e e e e e and l ctrical g n rating works , ngin sh ds ,

he e carriage repairing works in t n ighbourhood . The ships that come up the river bring with th em t h e

o re e and e e a a e t he iron , iron , timb r , g n r l merch ndis

e e a t e a and m town r quir s , taking b ck wi h th m co l anu f actured e as and a e e articl s , such iron tin pl t s , copp r ,

e ﬁr e . sp lter , and bricks

The villages in th e n eighbourhood of N eath are all

Meli r h h a a e b usy industri al centres . nc yt an s tin pl t

e wa e a s and e works , collieri s , rail y r p iring work , larg

Br nco ch h as e a e . engineering Sheds . y sev r l coal min s

e and a e ar e At Skew n , chemicals tinpl t s made , and copp er sm elting and coal mining ar e carri e d on . Tin

ilf r Th e plates are also made at Ab erdul ais and C ew .

236 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

’ 1 40 2 - 3 O e Gl ndwr s e e In , during w n y r b llion ,

e a e th e a e 1 0 0 a e and H nry V . g rrison d c stl with rch rs

- - f 30 m en at a e t he a Of . O rms , und r comm nd St John

th e Poumon . It is not known by whom castl e was

e e th e e i e e a d stroy d , though cr d t is g n r lly give n to

The e e a Glyndwr . ruins still r maining compris gate

N n da e ath A bbey (pre se t y).

a e a e er a way, ﬂ nk d by two l rg tow s , and portion of

h a t he n t e curtain w all . A sm ll portion of tow wall

is also standing.

a h t h e e Neath Abb e y st nds on t e right bank of riv r ,

a h w as e e a short dist nce from t e town . It d sign d by

an a e a a e architect n m d Lal es . It is thought th t L l s

a t h e e e a e c er was lso d sign r of Margam . His n m is NE ATH A ND BRITON FE RRY 237

n a e ea a e e tai ly preserved in L l ston , n r Marg m , wh r , it

ea e is said h e had a residenc e . N th Abb y was com

l et ed 1 1 30 e a e e e p about , but consid r bl additions w r

e e e Of he mad from time to tim . Som t walls still

n Of h e w as standi g are t e Tudor p riod . It at ﬁrst a

e Of Gr ey a a e the e a conv nt Fri rs , but l t r Cist rci ns

O a e e and e a e bt in d poss ssion , r t in d it until th e Dissolu

th e a e e t he e tion of Mon steri s . Just b fore R forma

w as e a e at ea h tion , it int nded to found Univ rsity N t ,

a w as a O a e e a and a Ch rter ctually bt in d . P rh ps , this acco unts for t he Tudor m asonry in th e ruins Of the abb ey .

a and e e e e e e e e Edw rd II . D sp ns r w re sh lt r d her ﬂ h f h during th eir ight from t e army O t e barons . The king sent the Abbot of N eath as an ambassador to the

ee at e e . qu n Ca rphilly , but his mission prov d fruitless

“ the Of th e a e e th e e At Dissolution Mon st ri s , abb y and

e e e a e a a its prop rty w r gr nt d to Sir Rich rd Willi ms , alias e th e e a e t Of the ea O e Cromw ll , W lsh nc s or gr t liv r

w e a e w as and Of Crom ll . L t r , it sold , a portion the N w an e a e n . o building tr sform d into dw lli g house , it is only inhabited by a car etak er .

Th e r a e and th e a e ruins a e consider bl , rchitectur

Of a a Of th e the is very high cl ss . ﬁrst building ,

a Th e crypt and the ruins Of t he church rem in .

e r f th e a e e e e oth r ruins a e those O ch pt r hous , r f ctory , and m a e e so e Of t he chi ef dom estic ap rtm nts . Car is

Of Old a tak en to preserve what r em ains the bbey . Excavations from tim e to time show that the prais es

e e Of th e e nd b stowed upon it by Welsh po ts tim , a by 238 TH E STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

la e e e th e and was Le nd , w r not b yond truth , that it

e once a place of great magniﬁcenc .

The abbey stood i n a p eaceful spot on the banks

e r e ea a ead and e e of the riv r , su round d by pl s nt m s f rtil

e the are no w the s Of ﬁ lds , but ruins in mid t works ,

e ar e a e and e a e som of which ctiv , oth rs dism ntl d . “ ’ e e the a w as and the e Wh r m tin s hymn sung, sol mn

e ea t h e e e a c an Of the vespers chant d , is h rd p rp tu l l g

a e e e and e noisy h mm r ; forg s , furnac s , tall chimn ys

n e e and a a and th mi gl un arthly unn tur l sounds , e dal e r esembl es a pande monium rath er th an a sanctu ary

h e nd m Of t h e from t e car s a tur oils world .

Briton Ferry is a s eaport and m anufacturing town

e Of t h e situated on th mouth e N dd . It stands abou t two and a half mil es south of th e town of N eath on

a Ba e th e shores of Swanse y . A f rry across th e river

u se Th e a Of th e is still in . popul tion town is about

and its prosperity has incr eased sinc e t he construction Of a ﬂoating dock with an area Of thirteen

e Th e t h e e Of t h e r e acr s . dock is prop rty G at est ern

a w e e w Railway Comp ny , and is ll ﬁtt d ith appli ances n n for loadi ng a d u loading vess els .

S everal lin es Of rail w ay connect t he port with the and t he e e mining district , with country g n rally .

e e t he A swing bridg , construct d by Rhondda and

w a ea Ba a a e S ns y R ilw y Company , giv s dir ect com munication a ea and a ea with Sw ns Sw ns Docks . Iron ,

ee and a at e a e e st l , bars r ils, tinpl s and p t nt fu l , are t he

a a e a n chief m nuf ctures, and cok m ki g as well as iron

d i are a e an brass found ng also c rri d on . The imports

240 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

a e c a e at o ne e e m e a ea f or L ndor x l im d tim , Giv Sw ns

e e a sc n ry and clim te . If ever it Should b e my fortune

e a he em e f to r turn to Engl nd , I would pass t r aind r O

a t he e Of a ea e ee my d ys in n ighbourhood Sw ns , b tw n ” a e and t h e e that pl c Mumbl s .

Th e ris e in th e l and from the shor es to t he hills behind makes t he streets rise in terraces until t he

a ar e a e . O a a ee ee Upl nds re ch d ccasion lly , long st p str t w h f will wind its ay up t e slop e O t h e hill . This arrangement Of t he streets lends itself to a pretti er

e a h e ﬂ a Of d t h eff ct th n t t str eets C ardiff o . In e

O e a Of t h e w e e t h e Of ld r p rt town , ho v r , long rows

’ e e t h e e e ne a workm n s hous s , numb rl ss chim y st cks , and th e Of e a all an cloud smoke ov rh nging , spoils y h beauty that t e district might have .

Thr ee Of t h e great railways Of t h e country

th e w — th e e a e e t he run into to n Gr t W st rn , London

- h e e and a a a . e e and Nort W st rn , Midl nd R ilw y s Th s ,

h e ec th e manuf ac with t e local lin s , conn t it with i turing towns and villages of th e n eighbourhood and

e e a Th e a e ar e th e ea t he country g n r lly . loc l lin s N th

t he a and wa ea Ba and Brecon , and Rhondd S ns y

The Ra a has n Railways . Port Talbot ilw y runni g

e the w and ea t a w a Of a e pow rs i nto to n , a st m r m y r th r

an unusu al type conn ects Sw ansea with the Mumbl es . Th e Sw ans ea Vall ey Can al runs from t h e town

a e t h e e a e t hrough L ndor , Morriston , and Taw V ll y into

B c th e a a e r ecknockshire. During its ourse, c n l cross s

- - e o ne u a h o ne a a e . ov r fo r rc , and six rch , qu ducts The THE B OR OU GH OF SWANSEA 241

Port Tennant Canal runs from t he Princ e Of Wal es

e a e e th e ea a . Dock to Ab rdul is , wh r it j oins N th C nal Th e Swans ea Guildhall stands in Somers et Pl ace

th e d w a 1 4 Th e ea s e e e 8 6 . n r ocks . It r ct d in build

e l the a e ing is of ston , b ui t in Cl ssic Styl , with

e Of t h The e e portico s e Corinthi an order . v stibul forms t he approach to two l aw courts and the coun c il

a e he e Of ch mb er . Outsid t h all is a statu Lord

a e On ea e t e a e a a Sw ns a. ch Sid of h st tu is c nnon presented to t h e Corporation as trophi es Of th e

e W r th e the Crim an a . Adj oining hall stand police

e e 1 8 . buildings , which w r built in 8 5

The Royal Institution Of South Wal es was formed

1 n The 8 35 a d a e 1 8 83. in , incorpor t d i n building — compris es a splendid library including many r are

— a e e ea e and a e m e Of works l ctur th tr , a l rg us um

O e a a e e a a bj cts illustr ting loc l and g n ral n tur l history ,

a and e e a e and loc l g n r l history and antiquiti s , local

e e e industri s . Among t he exhibits ar e autograph l tt rs “ Of e O a . and the H nry VII Henry VIII . , and rigin l ” Contract of Alliance b etween the ﬁrst Prince Of

e a f e . e a a . a e a O Wal s , ft rw rds Edw rd II , and Is b ll Franc

. The history Of the docum ent rel ating to t his

- a e c e e a e ill st rr d union is urious . Wh n his troubl s c m

a ea a e e a to h d , Edw rd II . sought r fug in South W les ,

- accompani ed by s everal of his high Ofﬁcials carrying

a a a e a e t h e ea e v rious v lu bl s , mong th em b ing gr t s al , and e e a Of e He a e a ea tw lv b gs docum nts . w it d at Sw ns in hopes Of a favourabl e wind to carry him to Lundy

a s d d o t e he e Isl nd , but a that i n com , was oblig d to R 242 TH E STOR Y OF GLAMOR GAN

and e t he e continue his ﬂight, l ft State docum nts at

m et a. e e th e a e e Swanse Th r , in l ps of tim , they with t he e e e e e e and e usual fat , w r n gl ct d , many of th m

e a ea a e a ea s stol n , this dis pp ring mong th m . Not m ny y r

e e e e e a a a e since, som poor p opl , b ing unabl to p y l t physician of Swansea for his attendanc e on th em in

S e a e as a ld o ak ickn ss , g v him curiosity a small O box ,

a e e e a was cont ining som anci nt docum nts , mong which ” t he a missing contr ct .

The a a e Public Libr ry and Art G ll ry , and School of Scienc e and Art occupy a building in th e Al exandra

w e a a O e e 1 . Th e e e e Road . It s p n d in 8 8 6 r f r nc libr ry contains many valuabl e and rare books rel ating to D Th eff et a . e . e . Wales and the W lsh late J Fr ncis , Esq , presented t h e town with a coll ection Of volum es

e e d s &c . e e are and ov r rar rawings , print , Th r f branch libraries in different parts O th e town . The market in Oxford Street was er ected by t he Corpora

1 1 9 7 a e 8 . tion in 8 30 , and r built in It is structure

Of a a e red brick , and on m rket d ys is crowd d with

th e e e e busy traders . A portion of mark t suff r d from

e ﬁr e a 1 9 0 5 e e the ravag s of a disastrous in M rch , . Th r D f is a cattl e mark et in y atty Street .

The Incorporated Swansea Exchange or the Royal

e w as e 1 8 7 he e e Metal Exchang found d in 8 , and t pr s nt

9 7 e Of building erected in 1 8 . It compris s suites

f Of a an e th e e . of ices v rious ﬁrms , with Exchang in r ar The leading metal merchants and tinplate manuf ac

u r th e are e e Of the a t re s of wo rld m mb rs Exch nge .

244 THE STORY OF GLAMOR‘ GAN

a e w and ' The a e w as M tth Craddock his wife. l tt r the “ ” Whit e ' ROSe Of a d t h e au e Of e e Scotl n , d ght r G org ;

a Of e w Of t h e t u e E rl Huntl y , and wido no orio s P rkin

he h a h a ec . S e t e s s e W rb k is not buri d in church ,

a e a e e a e e m rri d g ntl m n of B rkshir , in which county w she as buri ed .

ea H a w as e 1 1 7 and The Swans ospit l found d in 8 , t he e e was e e e 1 7 l pr s nt building r ct d in 8 6 . A chi

’ e a w as e 1 8 5 and a e a e dr n s w rd add d in 8 , d p rtm nt for diseases Of the ey e was Op ened in Oth er Hospitable ' and Charitabl e Institutions ‘ include a

Provident Disp ensar y Op en ed in 1 8 76 ; th e Royal

a a e th e e i C mbri n Institut for D af and Dumb , wh ch

w as e a ed at e t . in 1 847 ﬁrst st blish Ab rys wyth , but

remov ed to Swansea in 1 8 50 ; Sw ansea and South

e e t he e e 1 8 65 Wal s Institut for Blind , stablish d in ;

’ Sailors Home and Rest ; Industrial Hom e for Orphans

and e e e a e 1 8 59 a nd t e Fri ndl ss Girls , st blish d in ; h

an ea and ' a e n e e Sw s South W l s Nursing Institutio , op n d 1 7 in 8 3.

1 6 2 . e Of a e and In 8 , Dr Hugh Gor , bishop W t rford

e a e a e a am a Lismore , in Ir l nd , st blish d gr m r school in

t h and e e w a d f o r ~ ro v idin t h e e town , ndow d it ith l n s p g

it Th e e e es a a . funds nec s ary to m int in pr s nt building , er ected i n is no w under t h e control Of th e

e e e a W elsh Int rm diat Board as, County School for

e e an e e a e boys . Th r is also Int rm di t School for girls

t h a e da in e town , and two Municip l S con ry Schools

1 8 7 a n a e . 2 h av e r ec ently b een org nis d In , a Tr ini g

Coll ege for Schoolmistr esses w as Op ened . THE B OR OUGH OF SWAN SE A 245

The e l e borough is w l suppli d with parks . Bryn

a e ee a and e Was mill P rk, b tw n P rk Mill Singl ton ,

’

e 1 8 72 . e a e in e e Op ned in It is nin cr s xt nt , is

t e u a and Su u e t as f lly l id out, is rro nd d b y t rees . It w as formerly a r es er voir . C wmdo nkin Park on th e

a rt e e a e e en w as a e Upl nds , thi n cr s in xt t , purch s d by

h a and O e e t h u in 1 4 e e 7 . t Corpor tion , p n d to p blic 8 Splendid views Of the b ay and t he M u mbl es c an b e

t e a r t h r n lin Obtain ed from it . O h r p rks a e e B y me

a a and t he a ea Ba e ea Park , Victori P rk , Sw ns y R cr tion

a a a ﬁne e . a Grounds I n Victori P rk is st tu , com

m m ratin a men e h r e o g loc l who f ll in t e Bo er Wa . On each side of t he statue is a gun captured from

the Boers .

wa e has ee a e a e d S ns a b n comp r d to h ad , body; an “ ” “ a The ea the t he t il . h d is dock district ; body ,

th e resid ential and busin ess central part ; and t h e “ ” a the a t e t e a t il , industri l por ion x nding long t he

a Of t he e a a e Of ea b nks riv r for dist nc n rly four mil es . “ ” e a are and a e Includ d in this t il Morriston L ndor ,

‘ t a e e e e e ar e a a l which , hough in s ns ind p nd nt , pr ctic l y

Of t he and are u e t h e suburbs town , incl d d in borough .

e the th e S e w e e Wh n in town , or by hor , do not se

e e e Of t he ea t he ea much vi d nc gr t works in r r , but a j ourney by train from the docks to Landor e shows us

the a Of the e e Of wea p rt town wh r most its lth is won .

da w e see a a e e ed a er ee By y , v ll y nclos by r th st p

a -On e e Of are brown s ndston e hills . ith r side us

’ e e ee Of e e numb rl ss str ts workm n s hous s , which , from

h e e e use Of t e ar e e an t fr qu nt whi wash , l ss dirty th 246 TH E STORY OF GLAMOR ’GA N

e The ﬂ at b ed Of t he might be expect d . valley , which

e e e e e lies slightly b low us , is cov r d with numb rl ss ‘ — works blacken ed piles of buildings Of no great — height from which rises a p erfect forest of rather

e o ne e e and e e e stumpy chimn ys , with h r th r tow ring

a e t he e e e e a high bov r st . From th s is s nt forth cloud

f e e e Of e and O dense whit smok , vari d cours now th en by a fum e of dark colour. — H ere lie dark pil es Of rubbish ; there and th es e

e — a a are mor common gig ntic mounds , m inly purpl e

e e and i a black in colour , but str ak d now then w th

- the a copper red . The white smoke ﬁlls v lley like a

a t he e and fog ; the hills , the r ilway viaduct, hous s

a port of Swanse itself , peep indistinctly through t he

i the Off and haze . Looking nland , works drop , black looking ﬁelds succeed so that the lower part Of the Taw e appears l ess attractive than is usual with t he . _ rivers Of South Wal es .

“ e e a e By night , the sc n is yet str ng r . There is a glow on many of the refuse-heaps ; the air is bright with the lurid flames Of the smelting furnaces ; the white smoke gl eams with reflected lights ; t he build ingsuare lit up with the glar e Of the fires and Of endless j ets Of gas ; and the cl ear cold brilli ancy Of t he electric light shines out in marked contrast to th e surrounding illumi nations .

Within a radius of four mil es of the town there

e 1 50 -Six e e e are n arly works of thirty diff r nt vari ties , but the copp er smelting works are t he most

Of the e s e a ea important . copp r m lting industry , Sw ns

248 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

a a e and m king ; brass and iron founding ; ﬂ nn l , yarn

e a a e t he hosi ry m nufacturing ; indi rubb r works , and f ’ manufacture O COOper s goods .

We a e an e a must lso notic xtinct industry , th t of

the a a e Of e a . a e th e m nuf ctur porc l in A works, n m d

a a e t he a Of a e C mbri n Pott ry , for m king sup r ior

Of a a e w as e a e 1 780 kind chin w r , st blish d in , Many talented artists w ere engaged to d ecorate t he and t h e china , productions of the works won

T r n e e e . he a a a e o w e gr at r put C mbri n works clos d , though pottery Of an inferior kind is s till made

h e e Of Old in t e neighbourhood . Sp cim ns Swans ea

a are z e e a e a chin highly pri d by coll ctors , and h v high

e e e e a e ma b e ee h mark t valu . Fin x mpl s y s n in t e

e the Cardiﬁ and a ea e s an coll ctions in Sw ns Mus um , d

in t he e e e . Turn r Hous , P narth

A CH PTER XLII .

Th e Hist o o f S ans a ry w e .

THE na e a ea ee e e a m Sw ns has b n d riv d , ccording to t he e a e Swe ne e i a e b st uthoriti s , from y , a Nors p r t , who

e e t nd ea n O e e e a a a e . e a fr qu nt d th s p r s , , inl t th rs s y it

e Swine- sea the e com s from , from numb r Of porpois es

sea a e e e t he Y or pigs th t w r onc found in bay . et

e e e Swan-sea e a e a e oth rs d riv it from , b c us , s y th y , th e earliest English sp eaking visitors saw a large ﬂock Of

t he b a e 1 1 th a e swans in y . Sinc 8 8 , e n m Swansea has

ee e e e e e a b n sp lt in som ighty diff r nt w ys , and it is THE HISTORY OF SWAN SEA 249 only as recently as 1 738 that the nam e is Spelt as

ff e Swansea in th e O icial r cords .

Swans ea did not fall into t h e hands of t he Normans as early as th e r est Of t he pres ent County of

e e e a Glamorgan . You must r m mb r th t it was in a

h a w as e e e Of e ab Gw r an lords ip th t ind p nd nt I styn g . Whe n t he invaders h ad settled th emselves i n th eir

e w a a Of the e h d n ly won l nds , m ny W lsh who a supported I estyn crossed t h e border and establish ed

e a e thems elve s in Gow r . For littl time th ey had

’ ea e a 1 0 9 9 e e a Of p c , but bout H nry B aumont, E rl

a l ed e t he and e W rwick , a forc into district drov out t h e W elsh owners .

They took poss ession Of t he p eninsula for

e e e as e e Of the e O th ms lv s , w ll as som b st portions f h t e a e . A S th e a l nd b hind was usual , Norm ns set

a the e ea a bout building castl s , by m ns of which lone t e hO e th e a a h y could p to hold l nds they had t ken .

Of th e a e t w e a ea many c stl s buil in Go r , that of Sw ns

was o ne the a e and n e e e e of l rg st stro g st . It d f nd d t he lordship from attacks by the Welsh from t h e east

The a e wa e e h and north . c stl s rected shortly b fore t e

ea 1 1 1 3 a e e h y r , pr vious W lsh strong old no doubt

a ee e h ving b n occupi d until that time .

1 1 1 3 t h e a e w as a e f t h In , c stl att ck d by Grif ith , e

T He e a son of Rhys ab ewdwr . mad m ny hard H a e e b ut a e . e a e n tt mpts to captur it , f il d r vag d a d

u e t he and t he e b rn d town surrounding country . Aft r

a a the e e e and a this tt ck , Normans str ngth n d enl rged

e t e wa a a a e th ir for r ss , but it s not g in ttack d for nearly 250 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

d e ea s 1 1 a a hun r d y r . I n 8 8 , Archbishop B ldwin and t he histori an Giral dus Camb rensis p aid the castl e a visit wh en on th eir tour through Wal es pr eaching th e

hi e T rd Crusad .

e 1 21 5 t h e a e e e e Wh n , in , Norm ns w r busily ngag d

h and in t e struggl e against King John , forcing him to

t h e a a a ta th e e a e sign M gn C r , Rhys Young r , princ

Of D nev o r a e an e t h e y , m d ffort to rid country in th e dis tri ct round Gower of the Norman settlers . The W elsh wer e so successful that th ey captured all

t he a e e a e . c stl s of Gow r , including that of Sw ns a In

’ 1 21 7 t he a e t he e e , Rhys Ho rs , Rhys Young r s uncl ,

e s e. 1 1 e e e burn d the ca tl In 22 , how v r , Llew lyn ab

Io rw erth e Of a a e a d e , princ North W les , g v Willi m

B e rao se p ermission to r ebuild the castl e. Ll welyn promised th at th e W elsh Should not trouble him whil e h e was building it .

Th e castl e erecte d by de Braose w as not attacked

the a 1 60 en w as a e and s e until ye r 2 , wh it t k n de troy d

e e fi t he a e Of e . by Ll w lyn ab Grif th , L st Princ Wal s

NO e a e a 1 30 att mpt was m d t o r ebuild it until bout 3 ,

’ e e f e e e t he e wh n Bishop Gow r O St . David s r ct d castl , h t e remains Of which are now standing in t he town .

O e a 1 4 5 w n Glyndwr p rtly destroyed it in 0 , but it w w a as r epair ed . During the Civil War it as t ken

nd r - a e a e a e . t k n by both p rti s It is said , but it is

e a t h e e w as e and probably not tru , th t castl tak n re-take n three tim es within t he same day wit hout a e & h Of a a blow b ing struck After t e battl e St . F g ns ,

w as t he a Of t he a a e wa it in h nds Roy lists , but ft r rds

252 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GA N

r The other castle in Gl amorgan has such a pa apet .

e I no w e as a a hall of t he castl s us d Drill H ll .

Of t he e e e w as At the b eginning last c ntury , th r no

i Of an a e t he pub l c building y import nc in town . All t he public busin ess w as done in the remains Of

h Of t he was e as t e castle . A portion building us d a ff a was O . Town H ll , and divided into two rooms

In o ne Of e e law u e e e th s , co rts w r h ld , and the oth er

for a t he a a Of t he was used c rrying on ff irs town .

A curious court w as once h eld here . It w as a court

e Of e specially h eld for t he Englishm n Gow r . Another speci al court tried the cases wher e the Welshm en

ar Of Gower were conc ern ed . Both courts e now

e abolish d .

e t he a w as e a e A s ction of c stle also us d as a m rk t ,

e as the a while y et another p art was us d g ol . The gaol must have been a terrible place as the following will Sh ow When t h e Insp ect or Of Prisons visited

a ea he a t e Of Sw ns , found th t the prison consis d t he

e k e Of t he a e e ruin d e p c stl divid d into four rooms ,

a e e ee ee a e v rying from tw lv to ﬁft n f t squ r . NO

he e and furnitur e was allowed to t prison rs , only the room in which women were conﬁne d possessed a

. e e no a t he f lock Th r was gl ss in windows , no uel a e e e e Of e llow d v n in the cold st part wi nt r , and no

n e ha food at a y time. If th y d no fri ends to bring

e e e e th m food , th y must d p nd on charity for daily

ea and f br d medicine wh en sick . Not even a drop O ” a e Of t he w t r was within reach wretched prisoners .

The e e e was pr s nt Swans a prison built in 1 8 53. It is SWAN SEA DOCKS 253 f ar e e ld “ o ne e 240 diff r nt from t he O , and has c lls for prison ers . The ﬁrst half Of the last century saw a great

a e the e a ch ng in town , It gr w r pidly , and many buildings for public and business purpos es were e e e T e and Of r ct d . h e change in the Siz importance t he town can best be seen from the increase in

1 7 7 t he a was population . In 0 , popul tion only

1 80 1 had a e e e a By , it incre s d to S v nty ye rs later it had r each ed and at the present time it is over

CHAPTER XLIII .

n D ks Sw a se a o c .

SWAN SE A is the most westerly Of t h e ports Of

am a a ea the O e sea Gl org n . Its Situ tion n r p n , and its ea e t he e a e e e n rn ss to coal ﬁ ld , m k it very conv ni nt

e e e e e for purpos s of trade . A port exist d h r from v ry ea We e a he Of wa ea e rly times . r ad th t t Port S ns s nt

We Ships to ﬁght against t he Spanish Armada. must not think that this means that th e town Of Swansea alone sent Ships to th e h elp Of Drake and t he e oth r English sailors . In those days t he p or t Of Swansea reach ed from

O Ba as f ar ea a e h e xwich y st s Ch pstow in Monmouths ir .

Car diﬁ e e e e e - s , N wport and Ch pstow w r th n sub port , or

e Of a ea SO e a und r ports Sw ns . ships s nt from C rdiff or N ewport would b e said to h ave been s ent from t he 254 TH E STORY OF GLAMORGAN

a da e the e Port of Swanse . The boun ri s of port r mained

h a e he a 1 4 e a ff w as t e s m down to t y e r 8 6, wh n C rdi

e a e a e e e e t he t w o mad s p rat port , the dividing lin b tw en

f w ea a e ports b eing ﬁxed at Nash Point . A e y rs l t r

e w as e se e e N wport mad a port by it lf , and quit r cently,

a e e wa Port Talbot has been m d ind pendent of S nsea .

D ks Sw ansea o c .

Swansea was a tidal port until the beginning of last

1 80 1 a e century . In , the E st and West Piers wer built, “ ” 1 836 th e New was e e and in Cut mad . Soon aft r, th e e was a e e a riv r d mm d and turn d into ﬂoat . In

1 847 th e w a ea O , S ns Dock Company btained powers for

1 857 e e e e a building docks , but in th s w r t ken over by

wa a and the S nsea H rbour Trust , who built still own the docks .

256 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

e a e e e a Of a e larg tr d is don in the xport tion co l , cok , and

a e Th e p tent fu l . coal exporte d is of three kinds

a e b steam , anthr cit , and ituminous .

and e e at e a e a e Tin t rn pl s , corrug t d iron , m chin ry ,

e a e e ch mic ls , and g n ral goods form the chief things sent

- . e e e e e a out Besid s or s , pig iron , timb r, grain , and g n r l

e a e t h e m Th e ea e Of m rch ndis form i ports . y rly valu th e a ea e Of imports mounts to n rly thr e millions pounds , and the exports Of home produce and manufactur es are

a e e nd m a a a a . v lu d at ov r ﬁve h lf illions In ddition , foreign and coloni al produce r e-exported from Swansea

e a ar e a e Of ev ry ye r littl short in valu e .

The harbour and docks have everything n ec essary

a a and adin and ar e e for r pid lo ding unlo g of ships , w ll

Th e e e t he protec te d from storms . machin ry us d is of

e e e e h ee e Of a a e and mod rn kind ; th r is ov r t r mil s qu y g ,

and warehouses are provided for t h e storage Of goods . Over twent y miles of sidings are conn ected with t he

w he The rail ays running into t town . port is j oined by

’ e e e a and a the t l phon to C rdiff Docks , lso to Ships

Tel egraph Station on Mumbl es H ead .

Swansea has a flourishing fishing trade that h as h f become Of some importance during t e l ast ew years . Room for th e fishing vessels is m ade both in th e tidal

e harbour and in t he South Dock . About thirty st am

e t h e e e e a a e trawl ers b long to ﬁshing ﬂe t, b sid s l rg

numb er Of sailing boats such as smacks . CHAPTER XLIV. — n i s f t h e C o un l . A t iq uit e o t y .

THE ant iquiti es Of t he county are m any and Of various

e Of e e a e a ea ee e kinds . Som th s h v lr dy b n not d , but t here ar e othe rs w e have not read about which must

e a h e f ll h ave a place in this book . P rh ps t e Old st O a

h ml men = a e h= a are t e cro echau . r o L l c e (C roof ston ). These ston es ar e e rec ted as m emori als of the dead and ar e found in all C eltic as well as in som e other

e le c Of a countri s . A Crom h consists l rge mass es of

e O en Of ea e and w e t he a e f ston , ft gr t siz ight , l rg st O

a e as a a t e e t he e which is pl c d c ps on abov oth rs .

In t he ch amber thus formed th e re mains Of t he

ea w e e a e e e a as a e and e c e d d r pl c d , g n r lly sh s , n los d i n an

e ar The a a the a e e e earth n j . j rs cont ining sh s w r Ofte n

a e t e e e ea and accomp ni d by o h r v ss ls , w pons , various

ec Th e e m me e era e Obj ts . whol onu nt was g n lly cov red

w e and ea t m at ove r ith ston s r h , so for ing wh is called a ” e e ar e tumulus Th s tumuli , or mounds , common

a e w c e e Of the in W l s , hich ountry poss ss s most largest cr o ml echau in Britain .

’ The largest in t h e kingdom is to b e found in

Go lw D r n G0 l uch= the a e Of Dyffryn g ( yﬁ y V l Worship),

and S t a e e ee . t . a which is si u t d b tw n St Lythans Nichol s ,

W e e t he a e t he a Cardiff . th r worshi p c rri d on in v l e

w e was Christian or Druidic do not know . Probably 258 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

as e e a both , it is r cord d th t in t h e s econd c entury

e a e e ec a e a e Druidic r m ins w r cons r t d to Christi n s rvic e .

Th e a e e as a e Co rr i l rg st croml ch is known C st ll g, but

e e ar e t he e a Of e th e e th r r m ins oth rs in n ighbourhood .

One Spl endid exampl e is Shown i n t he picture on 76 at a e . . p g It is St Nichol as .

’ A e a e e t e w e noth r l rg croml ch is Arthur s S on in Go r ,

w e a e a ea ea a which h v lr dy r d about . At M r cross is o ne

as Hen w t he Old known Yr Egl ys ( Church). There are e a Of a e at a e the r m ins doubtful croml ch L l ston ,

a a e The e which is lso known by this n m . oth r cro mlechau Of t h e are at e at Crei i u county situ d g a ,

th e est o n and at Cae Let w ch ea Ty g , y , n r Coity .

Clos ely conn ected with th e croml ech is th e st on e

e e are e e e e e e h e circl e. Th r s v ral r put d ston c ircl s in t

th e e e a e S a e t h e a county , but b st x mpl is itu t d in p rish

f Llan f elac h e a ea as O gy , n ar Sw ns . It is known

arnllechart and t Of a m e Of a e ﬂ at C , consis s nu b r l rg

e a h a e The e has ston s st nding uprig t in circl . circl an e a e t he e e a cist - aen e ntr nc , and in c ntr is f or ston ﬂ e a at e as e . ch st , with ston a cov r This is no doubt t he grave Of som e great man in Old en tim es .

Many anci ent ston es ar e to b e found in t h e

f h e e e are Of ee southern p art O t county . Th s thr — kinds Meini Hirio n (Long Ston es) ; Lettered Stones with no decoration ; and L ettered Ston es with much

e e Hirio n are d ecoration carved on th m . The M iui

e e a t a long hug ston s in a n tural condi ion , st nding u p

h t sa a on end in t e ground . It is difﬁcul to y for wh t

sa e a purpose th ey were erected . Some y th y m rk the

260 TH E STORY OF GLAMORGAN

The De corated l ettere d ston es are by f ar th e mos t

t e w a e e e a interes ing . Th y Sho us th t th er w r rtists in

f e r Th Wales many hundreds O y a s ago . e work don e

Irbl C ro ss L ando u nr. ard ff . e , l gh, C i

a e on th e stones is Of an excell ent qu ality . As rul

a a e e it is a curious interl cing p ttern , which som tim s is

e accurate enough to have b een done with instrum nts . AN TIQUITIE S OF TH E COUNTY 261

The a w e ve e the a e t h e rtists , ho r , pick d; out& p tt rn by

e e e e are a w e no w ey e alon . All th s ston s wh t would

e and e e a e a e a call tombston s , w r pl c d to m rk c rt in

a e gr v s .

e c e e a e t he Of Oth er ston s , whi h som ti m s t k form c e ar e a e e e t h e r are ross s , sc tt r d ov r county , but g oups

b e n at e aw ea e at to fou d M rthyr M r n r Bridg nd , Th m a a and at a a . e e e e Ll ntwit M j or , M rg m ﬁn st sp ci n

all is t he I r bic r oss w c a in a of C , hi h st nds Ll ndough Th n h a ea a . e e t e Churchy rd , n r C rdiff d sig for monum ent to Pem brokeshi re m e n who f ell in th e

w The South Afri can War as b as e d o n this cross .

e t Th e monum nt s ands in H averfordwest . cross in t h e Palace garde ns at Llandaff is anothe r b eautif ul e a e e at a w t he r oss Ol t he x mpl , whil Ll nt it C l ,

r o Of mso n an t h o ni r ved P illa r are C ss Sa , d e C ca l G oo

a th e e . ea ee at a a mong b st A gr t wh l cross M rg m ,

as th e r oss Of o nbelin a e en known C C , is noth r spl did e am e and the r o s Of E nniau x pl , so is C s n found in t he a e a e s m pl c .

The e a ea e e are t he e cross s lr dy m ntion d b st, but m a e e at t he a e a e as w e as at ny oth rs xist s m pl c s , ll

ea a a e c e a a N th , Pont rd w , Coy hurch , Bridg nd , Ll ng n and l ea eat O t he e at a Gno l , n r N h . nly ston s Ll ndough ,

t a aw e a a and a e e a e Pon rd , Ll ng n , Gnoll , h v ﬁgur s c rv d

e The I r bic Cr oss h as t h e ﬁ e a m an on th m , gur of

eb a and m e e O f a t ca e on hors ck , so ﬁgur s s in s rv d on it .

The e at a aw e and a a w e w h e ston s Pont rd Ll ng n , h n ol ,

e e e t e th e w e t h e t e r pr s n d Cruciﬁxion , hil Gnoll S on

a a me t a a e Of e e is fr g nt wi h h um n ﬁgur , Most th s 262 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN ston es are at l east twelve or thirteen hundre d y ears

Old SO it e b e , is som thing for us to proud Of that our anc estors i n Gl amo rgan so long ago could turn out

e ce e a b e such x ll nt c rving . It would difﬁcul t for al l boys and girls to visi t th e pl ac es w h ere th ese ston es are e t e e e a a k pt, but if h y v r pay C rdiff visit, they w i ll b e abl e to see casts Of most of t he m in t h e W elsh

e at t a Mus um h t city .

CHAPTER XLV .

— nt i uit ie o f t h e C u n l A q s o t y . l .

THE large number of camps found scattered over th e surfac e Of th e county proves to us that our forefathe rs must h ave b een very brave and warlike peopl e . It is interes ting to study t he pl aces w h ere t hey are

h e e m Th a e and t e e e . e a situ t d , diff r nc in th ir for s c mps

am a ar e ea e ee a e i n Gl org n sil y divid d into thr cl ss s ,

a a and am Of a e British C mps , Roman C mps , c ps inv d rs

sea by .

Th e different class es are distinguish ed by th eir

The e r form and situation . Britons built th i strong holds along t h e crests Of mountain ridges wh ere an

e e m c et a e attacking n y would ﬁnd it difﬁ ult to g t th m .

The a t e a f e w e e t a Rom ns buil th irs , with xc p ions , long t he e Of t he ea sea- a a e e t h e lin gr t ro d or its br nch s , whil

’ a e sea- o e am ar e t o b e n ea D nish or oth r r bb rs c ps fou d n r,

The h r i o r along th e coast . Romans built t ei c amps n a

264 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

Along t he lin e Of ithe mountains separati ng the Vale

t he a e Of a e e e from Hills is lin British c mps . Th s w re p e rhaps mad e for t he purpose of ch e cking the adv ance

Of t he a e e t e a e t he Rom n l gions wh n h y inv d d country .

i am Brit sh C p .

On e a a Of a a a e e C fn C rn n , j ust north C rdiff , l rg fortr ss

h e e command e d t h e plai n to t e south . Furth r w st is h C aer u am ea a a . a t e a C p , n r Ll ntris nt This is prob bly It l argest and most p erfect c amp in t he c ounty . guarded t h e pass l eading from t he lowl and to t he hill ANTIQUITIE S OF THE COUNTY 265

and c e a t Of ea m a c e district , oc upi d posi ion g r t i port n . On Margam Mount ain is a w hole lin e of camps Of

eat e e a w ﬁ e ea w r h gr int r st , mong hich gur rth o ks of t e d t h T an an e a e . h e a e c Britons , Rom s , D n s C stl Dit h es

ea Fo nm o n ha e eat e w S w e a e n r , v f ur s hich ho th m to h v

ee Of a e e a m a a b n British m k , whil s ll c mp m ade by th e t a d t h e w Britons , s n s on high ground bet een t h e

e e Of the a and t h e ea a a n conﬂu nc T ff Cynon , n r N vig tio . Anoth e r British camp is si t uate d on th e hills above

e Tr orchy .

Along t h e Via Ju lia th ere ar e s e veral Rom an

The e th e t m t he ea a . e c mps ﬁrst , nt ring coun y fro st,

Cae a t e am a m a ea w nea t he is C s ll C p , s ll rth ork r m m Of e . e a e t at at a village Rhy n y N xt c h C rdiff , b w her e was t h e i mportant station Tibia A mnis. A out t ee and a a e e Of a at Caerau a hr h lf mil s w st C rdiff , , is

a e a e a e t c e an a ea Of l rg Rom n nc mpm n , whi h cov rs r

l e e m e a t w as t h e about twe v acr s . So uthors thin k his

e Of Ti bia A mnis t he c e Of e t en e sit , but dis ov ry x siv Rom an m asonry at Cardiff has practi cal l y d ecided t h at

w aer au a t h e station w as ﬁxed at t h e l att e r to n . C C mp

e t h e b o ne t h e w e t w o is d efend d on north y , on st by , and on t h e south by t hr ee lin es Of ramp arts and ditch es .

w th e Via u lia w e w a w e c i m s Follo ing J st rd , ﬁnd p

St c las and Bo nv ilsto ne m e e ma at . Ni ho , so r ins of

am t w e nd Bro cast l e and a a e cam c ps a Co bridg a , l rg p

e Y a r Th m ae nea call d G e ( e C a p) on Myn y dd y G r , r

m f h a at a w w as a ac . O e Bl k i ll South t ro d , Ll nt it ,

a w e an t a e Of Roman vill , but do not ﬁ nd y r c s 266 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

w fortiﬁcations th er e . Possibly th e villa as built a e t he a had e e t he r a ft r Rom ns s ttl d count y. A Rom n

am b e Kenﬁ and e a c p is to found at g, t mpor ry h alting places on Mynydd Baidan and Rhyd -blaen -y

t h e at th e ea t h e a cwm ( Ford h d of V ll ey) .

e e e a a ar e e a Th s t mpor ry c mps e very int r sting . Th t on Mynydd Baid an is a short dis tanc e below t he

t h eem British lin es on e bro w of th e same hill . It s s as if th e Rom ans h ad r each e d the spot too l ate to

a th e a ame da and had att ck Britons th t s y , so to

e e e e e e a an a ntr nch th ms lv s ov r night . Wh t nxious

e The a night it must have b en for both armi es . Rom ns

O en t he ea e e e e h eld th eir ppon ts in gr t st r sp ct , for th y

e a e e a ea incl ud d spring within th ir lin s , though cl r

sparkling brook ran down t he valley only a f ew yards

a a w y .

Ro man C am co nst ruct e d o n Br t i s nt re nc ments p i h i h , M n M r y ydd a gam.

e t h e m a a te a e N xt morning , Ro ns , f r what must h v

ee a e t he e b n h rd ﬁghting, drov Britons from th ir

e e earthworks o ne after another . Th s e arth works ran

the a as f ar as - ae - -cwm along mount in top Rhyd bl n y ,

’ an w a e e t h e hour s l k away . H r Britons made th eir

268 TH E STOR Y OF GL AMOR GAN

e e ﬂint instrum nts . Th re is a rud e cist or kist on

e el ae n C fn G lig r known as Mae n Tey r og . It is sai d to mark t h e spot wh er e t h e found er of Tinte rn Church w W as e . e a e a ea ea n buri d h v lr dy r d of Crug yr Afa .

P an o f Dan s C am ne ar P e Rest o re d l i h p yl .

Th ere ar e s everal b arrow s on t h e Garth Mount ain

ea a f a m at e o ne at e and n r C rdi f , slightly o d P ntyrch ,

T m ath ea t c o ne a e t h e w c . c ll d p , n r Whi hur h A mound sim ilar to t hos e on w hich t he Saxons built t h eir st rongholds is to b e found in t he Cardiff Castl e l w and a a e o ne at e e e . a e grounds , sm l r P nric , Go r A l rg TH E EARLY INHABITANTS OF GLAMOR GAN 269 n mb e m ex a a Two u r of tu uli ist on M rg m Mountain . of the m b ear very suggestive n ames Yr Ergyd U c/mf (t h e High es t Blo w ) and Y&“ E r gyd I saf (t h e Lowest

a t e e w and t h e t . e t o e are Blow) P rh ps h s , o h r mounds , t he buri al places of t he d ead who f ell in t he b attl es

t e e w One u e h B v fought on h s do ns . tu mul s n ar t e o d o c

e c a e Tu'm a h D iwlith th e De w e Ston is ll d p t ( l ss Mound). Traditio n t ells us th at no d e w e ve r fall s on t his

d w o ne Of t h e e ve e moun , hich is S n Wond rs of

G a a In m e a t h e b a s Iarl l l morg n . for r d ys rd of Tir

f e e t e e m t o t n h ld h ir gors dd or ee ing on this mound .

CHAPTER XLVI .

Th s o f G lam o r an e Ear ly Inh ab it ant g .

IN a former ch apter you r ead th at th e p eopl e who live d in Gl amorgan w h en t he Rom ans c ame into t h e

e e e e country w e re c all e d Essyll wy r or Silures . Th s w r a trib e of a race t h at had c ross e d over int o Britai n from t h e f n w w as e t Th e t e t o e a d e e . con in n Europ , r kno n C l s p arti cul ar branch of t h e C elti c p eopl e t hat ﬁrst s e ttl e d

t c w e as e a o r ae . in his ountry re known Goid ls , G uls , G ls

a e a t e a t h e a e eat am L t r on , no h r br nch of s m gr f ily ,

w as am e t he u and e e kno n Brythons , c into co ntry , s ttl d a t h e e e e e o ne mong e Gae ls . In cours of tim th s form d

e e and r The e w e e a p opl w ere call ed B itons . Sil ur s r t e o f t he t w e e e e at e rib Bri ons, but r mor clos ly rel d to t h e Goidels than to t he Brythons .

a m e a t he e You must not think for mo nt th t C lts , or

a a h e ae e e the th t br nch of them known as t G ls , w r ﬁrst 270 TH E STORY OF GLAMORGAN

t c . e e t am e inhabitan s of our ountry Long b for h ey c ,

w e no t w e e a e h o w long do kno , s v r l oth r races h ad m ade

e e e e eac t b e e e t h e th ir hom s h r , h in urn to conqu r d by

We w a e e e e e e e n ewcom e rs . kno th t th s p opl liv d h r by

e m e e em w h a e ee at r ains l ft b hind th , ich h v b n dug up

m e diﬂ er ent a t h a e . v rious ti s , in p rts of county

The e e a e e e a w e ﬁrst of th s nci nt p opl , th t know an t e e e w e t e e w e e t a t y hing of , liv d h r h n h r r no S r i s o f

w a h e and t a s e t o t e c e . e Dov r , Bri in j oin d ontin nt Th y

e e a a e e e ca e e t he w r s v g s , th y liv d in v s or hol s i n

and O a e t e o w l ground , bt in d h ir fo d by hunting i d

e had e f e w w ea n ani mals . Th y v ry pons or a y other

m e e and e e t e e had e e e i pl m nts , v n hos th y , w r of ston ,

a e e e e e e roughly chipped into sh p . Th s p opl wer e call d

h ld t e Men and e e w ea n nd t e O S on , som of th ir po s a

are b e ee in m e m tools to s n our us u s .

a ea a e a t e a e Of e e w M ny y rs ft r , no h r r c p opl kno n as t he New e Men e e th e and Ston s ttl d in country ,

he m a e th e Th e w b ecame t st rs of old er rac e . ne

com ers w ere m ore civilise d t han t h e Old Ston e

Men. e e a e e S v r l thin gs t ll us this . First , th ir

nd w e t e e ea a e e . e ea w pons tools r b t r Th s , inst d of

e and a ed e e e b ing rough poorly sh p , w r ﬁn ly ground

Th e New e Men di and polishe d . Ston d no t d ep e nd

a et e t e h ad e ltog h r upon hun ing for th ir food , but h rds

o f e and ee and at and ox n pigs , ﬂocks of sh p go s , they

h ad a . e w e e a m en a lso dogs Th y r short d rk , with d rk

d e e and ha an . e ir y s , long skull s Th y knew ho w to

m a e c and - a e e and e e k loth sun b k d pott ry , buri d t h ir

e e ists e e dead in ston box s or c , cov r d by long mounds of

272 TH E STORY OF GLAMORGAN

m Th e e. e ae h ad and from tim to ti G ls round skulls ,

e m e e e e ea e e e th y so tim s burn d th ir d d b for burying th m .

The a e th e b e e e a e a sh s , or unburnt odi s w r pl c d in cist, set in a w t h e ro und and a ea a hollo in g , gr t round b rrow w e ea e e e e e r r as t h n h p d ov r th m . Th s round b ar ows a e m h also found i n Gla organ . T e Brythons were tall

e h e e and had a a and e e e lik t Ga ls , f ir h ir blu y s . We m ay st ill see in Glamorgan men who are lik e both th e

ae nd and w ho are a t e e a G ls a Brythons , , in f c , d sc nd nts

f e o th ese p eopl .

CHAPTER XLVII .

Th e Ro man C o nq ue st o f Si luri a .

a t c at WE h ave s een t h at t h e inh abit n s of this ounty ,

h m h a a o f t a w e e t e t i e of t e Rom n inv sion Bri in , r of

t h e e t c a e e e e c a t a a a e C l i r c , mor sp i lly of h t br nch c ll d

e e e ed as th e Gael i c or Goid eli c . Th y w r not so civilis

c e t o t h e ea tw a and w e e no t SO ea C elti trib s s rd , so r sy

e e e e ea e and ee to conqu r . Th y w r f rl ss , fond of fr dom ,

and r esiste d t h e invad ers for y ears after other parts

ma e e a of t h e country h ad b een su b du ed . Ro n g n r l

c e e m afte r Rom an gen eral had tri ed to onqu r th , but

e e ea e and m e ea e a e s v re m sur s , pro is s of kind tr tm nt f il d

for 25 y ears to bring t h e m under Roman rul e.

n ene a a e Ost o rius A . D a a In 50 . , Rom g r l n m d

He a e Scapul a l and ed i n Britain . , ft r much ﬁghting ,

man aged to conq uer and settle t h e country as f ar TH E ROMAN OONQ U E ST OF SILU RIA 2 73 w On t he e e e est as t h e Severn . bord rs of th is conqu r d

a e t he u e and m a b e e t a t h e l nd liv d Sil r s , you y sur h t Romans did not fe el c om fort able w i t h su ch a brave

' e e and f earl ess tribe as t h ir n ighbours . To Siluri a fled all those m en of oth er tribes who felt the y could

e e th e m a and t e e m e n a not liv und r Ro ns , h s in ddition

t h e e e e a e a m a e a e . to Silur s th ms lv s , m d up for id bl rmy

a a a e w as a t he C r doc , Brythonic princ , in comm nd of

e at t e and h e w w e a e e Silur s his tim , , ith his hol rmy , w r ready to d efend the ir homes from t h e invad ers who w ere m arching against t hem .

a a w ho had e c a e the C r doc , pr viously omm nd d

a a e e e e e w at t e Britons g inst th ir n mi s , kn th h y could

e e ea t e o n O e h e not hop to d f t h m p n ground , so

t h t a a a e m arch e d his army to e moun ins . An lli nc w as m ade wi t h t w o ot h e r Celtic trib es that lived in

n a e Th e c e a e a e Mid a d North W l s . ombin d rmi s pl c d t em e e a t c w as a e h s lv s in s ronghold , whi h c ptur d by t h e e ea ea a ﬁ Romans aft r a gr t d l of h rd ghting .

’ a a w e and a e e e a e C r doc s if d ught r w r c ptur d , but

ma e a e He ﬂ ed th e he himself man aged to ke his sc p . to

a e w m h e h ad e e a a t h e a Brig nt s , ho h lp d g inst Rom ns , b ut t he Qu e e n o f this trib e handed him over to his

m e h e e e w o e t as a e . n i s , s n him prison r to Rom In

e his a e and t e a w o n Rom , br v uprigh b h viour for him the r esp ect and admiration of t h e Rom an Emp eror

h e and t e a e e and e w as a e . Rom n p opl , his lif sp r d Som

a he e a e e ea e s y r m in d in Rom until his d th , but oth rs tell us that in time h e w as allow e d to r eturn to his i n at v e country . T 274 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

The d efeat and capture of Caradoc did not

e the e e e t he discourag Silur s , who r sist d Romans as

e e e stubbornly as ver . Th y w re secure as long as

e e t and a f s e e th y k pt in heir woods mount in a tn ss s .

e me e ea From tim to ti , th y would br k out and cut off numb ers of their e n e mi es that had gone out in

' and e e e a e The search of food oth r n c ss ri s . kind of war carrie d on by th e Silures w as very much lik e that carri ed on by the Bo ers at t he end of t he late

War e e e ee t h e o a Boer . Th y r fus d to m t R m ns in a

e a e e e a the -o ut t o pitch d b ttl , but w r lways on look ,

a e f e e S cut off any sm ll parti s O th ir n emi es . o

e e e e e t he a a succ ssful w r th y in r sisting Rom n rms , that Ost orius Scap ula di ed from the hardships h e

e e e e suffere d whil att mpting to conqu r th m .

a a e e e Tacitus , Rom n writ r , r f rs to this p eriod in ” t he following words After t his (t he loss of “ a a e e w as e a e e a C r doc) , th r inc ss nt ﬁghting , g n r lly of

' a e a a e et e e plund ring ch r ct r. Som im s armi s would

ee a at e e t he m t in wood , oth r tim s in midst of

a e a as a e e ea m rsh s , ccording ch nc or th ir h dstrong

a e e a an e e e v lour dir ct d . M ny ncount r took plac by

e e e e e t he e a e accid nt, whil oth rs w r r sult of c r ful

an e e i was e t a e pl anning . Many xp d tion und r k n to

e e e e a e e h ad e av ng som pr vious defe t , whil oth rs plund r — for their obj ect som etim es taken by orde r of t h eir

e e at e e e w e e g n rals , and oth r tim s without th ir kno l dg .

“ The Silures were t he most obstinate in their

e i e and e a w as ea e r s stanc , th ir obstin cy incr s d by the threat of t he Roman general that h e would root the

’ 2 76 TH E STORY OF GLAMOR GAN consid erabl e numb er of m en to gu ard t h e c onqu ered

e ea a e e e at [ sea Silu r u m district. Th ir h dqu rt rs w r

ae e w e ea a t he e e e (C rl on) , but do not r d th t Silur s v r

e e again brok out into r b ellion .

CHAPTER XLVI II .

o man e mai R R ns in Gla mo rg an.

WE hav e m any traces Of t h e Roman occupation

em a a a e still r ining in various p rts of Gl morgan , som Of which h av e only b ee n brought t o light w ithin

Of e e t he a w h e e ea . a r c nt y rs th s , c mps or st tions , hic w ere pl ace d on t he ro ads w hich t he Rom ans a w a a e an e e ar e the l ys m d in y conqu r d district , Th w h t n e e n . e a e e e e t e mos i t r sti g ro ds , ho v r , w r ﬁrst w e a e th e e and w e ea orks und rt k n by con qu rors , will r d a t bout th es e ﬁrs .

Th ey w er e m ad e w h en t h e Romans w er e at p eac e with t h e Brit ons in t h e district through which

he a w e e and th e e and th e t ro ds r to run , both soldi rs

' e r e nat ives were employ ed in th i construction . Th y

e a e a e m b e e a wer m d , so th t soldi rs ight mov d bout

a e a e and ea and a a from pl c to pl c quickly sily, lso th t

‘ goods and news could b e carri ed w ith t h e short est possibl e del ay .

Three chi ef roads c rossed Gl amorgan w ith s eve ral

Th e a w as o ne oth ers of m inor im portan ce . e chi f ro d

Fr o nt inu s th e e the e m ad e by Julius , Conqu ror of Sil ur s . R OMAN REMAIN S IN GLAMORGAN 277

I t w as call ed t he Via Ja lia M a r itima (The Sea- road

u r an a th e ea of J lius), and right cross county from st to w e Th e ia u lia e e e e st . V J nt r d from Monmouthshir

ea e and the l o w e n r Rhymn y , following land , it w nt almost in t he same dire ction as th e pr es ent main road ac the a t h e ross county . Thus it wou ld p ss through

a e e eat and towns of C rdiff , Cowbridg , Bridg nd , N h

a d e and a e a L n or , ft r p ssing through Loughor would

e e e e e ar e e e a cross ov r into C armarth nshir . As th r s v r l

m a a b e t e c e a Ro n c mps to found on his rout , it is rt in

a th e i h e e e e th t V a Jalia went in t dir ction m ntion d .

It w as t he custom of t he Romans to pl ace stations at

e a f ew e a th e a and t he a e int rv ls of a mil s long ro ds , n m s and probabl e stations on the Via Ja lia ar e known to

h h a us . An old writ er states that t e ﬁrst on t e ro d from t h e ea w as o ne e th e an Tibia A mnis st call d by Rom s . For many y ears peopl e w ere not quite sure wh ere this

w The colony or station as ﬁxed . discovery of Roman walls and gates at Cardiﬂ Castl e m ake it almost certai n

a e e Tibia A mnis w a e th t h r as situ t d .

Anoth er Rom an w riter me ntions t he n ame R at ostabiu s or Ratostibiu s which is thought to have

e e a a a a b n R th or Ro th , now suburb of C rdiff . Som e a e e e a R atostibius was the uthoriti s , how v r , think th t

a e a i e Th e e at e e a n m of r v r . s cond st ion m ntion d is th t

a ed oviu e c ll B m. H er again th er e is some doubt as to t h e e e e e and an corr ct sit . Cowbridg , Bov rton , Ll twit

a all a t he e e are no w M j or, cl im honour . Most p opl i n

a i e e t he a a e t h e f vour of Cowbr dg b ing ctu l sit , with 278 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN n ame of t h e st atio n furth er comme morated in th e nei la e e n ghbouring vil g of Bov rto .

Nid am t he e e ea was t h e ex a , pr s nt N th , n t st tion on

Li lia Th e a u t he Via J . ro d from B o iu m l e d ov e r t he

e w D w n a Kenﬁ e e a e me t N wto n o s p st g , wh r s ettl n e e e ea m e We xist d from v ry rly ti s . do not know w h ether a vill age stood h ere during t he Roman

c at n o ne a e ee a e e e oc up io , but must h v b n situ t d h r long

e t h e a ame h e e e are b efor Norm ns c into t country . Th r

a e a b e at ea and no Rom n r m ins to found N th , it is t hou ght that t he castle stands w h ere t he Roman camp

e The a t a t he might possibly have b en . l s st tion i n

w Leu ca r u m no w n w n a u as s . co nty , k o Loughor Traces o f t h e Roman occupation i n t he form of ear th w orks and coins h ave b ee n found in this n eigh b o urho d L eaca r mn t he a ran o . From ro d to

d t e Me ia St . a a e an e nev . C rmarth n , h nc to or D vids

’ The Via Ju lia i lf ar itima w as t he c a a as o st ro d , its

m e e Via Jalia ran e na shows . Anoth r through Br con

h t ar e and e t e a t a a a t e . shir , j oin d co s ro d C rm h n This w as t he Via Ju lia Monta na (The Mountain Road Of

t e e a e ill enevia at Julius). Bo h th s ro ds j oin d to B h ,

' w w h o m n a A u l Two whi ch as kno n to t e R a s s q a So is. cross roads are kno w n to h ave connecte d th e m in

n The e c a are e a e t h e Gl amorga . conn ting ro ds thos c ll d

Hel n The a t he e and Sa r n H ir Sam e ( Ro d of L gion),

. h e a Ot e a ran a (T Long Ro d). h r minor ro ds i n v rious

e Of h e ee a e ese directions , som which av b n tr c d , but th

h ia ulia Ma r it ima e e t he e two with t e V J , w r chi f

Th e ar el r thoroughfares in t he county . S n H en an

280 THE STORY OF GLAMO’RGAN

7 A D Th e ea e e Fro nt inus in about 8 . . rli st W lsh histori an states that th e Gosp el w as ﬁrst preach ed about t he ye ars

- a e t he e t h 1 A . D . a e e 60 6 , th t is shortly ft r r volt of Ic ni

Th e e e und er Qu ee n Boadi cea. Silur s nj oyed a short interval Of p eace from th at revolt to t he c oming of

e th e new e Fro ntinus. During this p riod r ligion would h ave an Opportunity to grow .

a w d at ll a a a an . a e a Ll nd ff , Ll nt it M j or , St Don s h v b ee n m ention ed as t he pl ace w here t he Gosp el w as ﬁrst

e e a a w e a e e pr each e d . H r g in h v no r cords to support

h f an o ne Of the a Ilid a t e cl aims O y pl ces . is s id to

n he h ave b ee n o e of t early mission ari es to Britain . He is supposed to have pr each ed in t he district around

a ea w e e e th e c Ll nilid n r Co bridg , wh r chur h is still nam ed after him .

Th e New a e e ee a F ith ﬂourish d xc dingly in Siluri ,

h ea e e e ed We ea at and t e p eopl e g rly b li v in it . r d th

I t h e m e t h e e c e Lle ur w e n iddl of s cond ntury , g, Princ “ l i a e a e e and w as t he of Si ur , b c m a conv rt, ﬁrst ki a was a e I all t h e Lleur w ng th t b ptis d n world g ,

ecam e a t a e me e Chris i n , s nt to Ro for mor

' a e his a eal ea e In nsw r to pp , two pr ch rs

e e t T e e e e a a D f an wer s n h y w r nam d F g n and y . f t ﬁ l ' l‘ Th e ﬁrst church in Britain w as no w built at

a and e ch urches e e Ll ndaff , oth r soon follow d i n oth r b ‘ h a e . e e e t e e e pl c s B for this tim , s rvic s we re most

e e t he e ai r e c a e e e lik ly h ld in op n , or , in som s s , wh r Dr f e el e e e a a the uids orm rly h d th ir m tings . F g n is ‘ ' f ' mb ered th e a F till reme e St . a a and B t n S in n m g ns , y a

Me D f aii we e e e In rthyr y , h r church s d dicate d to GLAMOR GAN UNDER THE WELSH PR I NOE S 28 1

D f an w a e e e . s a e b ma th m w r built y m rtyr d y Ro ns ,

e c e t he a e e D f an D f an the a h n n m M rthyr y ( y M rtyr).

In spite of p ers ec ution u nd er some of t h e Rom an

e t h e a w e . a h Emp rors , f ith ﬂourish d To rds t e e nd o f t he e a a e a fourth c ntury , Rom n Emp ror, n med

a e a e an Of e a e e a a V l ntini n , s nt fic r, n m d Th odosius , g inst h t e c . h e Pi ts and Scots Whilst in this country , establis h ed a s chool or monastery at C aer Wrgan

L a w a e r e h ( l nt it M j or) , i n ord to h lp t e Britons to

e ea e and ea e provid pr ch rs t ch rs .

By this time t h e Christi an faith h ad b ec om e ﬁrmly

e t he c and h ad ea f a t e and a e ﬁx d in distri t , spr d r h r f rth r a a in e m Of th e w e e t a bro d , until tim ost Britons r Chris i ns . Many of t he Britons w e nt as m issionari es t o Ire l and and e e e e t he e e w as oth r plac s , wh r Gosp l of J sus Christ w w as a a ea e . not kno n , or struggling g inst h th nism

H C APTER L .

lam e G o rg an u nd r t h e W e lsh Princ es .

THE Romans l eft t h e c ountry early in t h e ﬁfth

e and h a c ntury , t e old W elsh rul ers cam e ag in into

w e r Th w t h e po . e Rom ans had not don e away ith na e e a e e had a e a a tiv rul rs ltog th r , but only t k n w y most

e e e m e t h e of th ir power . Wh n th ey return d to Ro , h eads of th e various Bri t ish tribes w ere ready t o

e e e e na e e step in to gov rn th ir p eopl e . Th s tiv princ s 282 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN remain ed in pow er in Siluri a for n early s even hundred

ea he d a e th e a y rs after t ep rtur of Rom ns .

We no t th e e do know much of history of this p riod , and t he e w e w w e can e e e of littl do kno , h r only m ntion

he No t som e of t chi ef in cid ents th at happ en ed . long after the Romans w ent aw ay a new f o e m ade

a ea e was th e a who at his pp ranc . This S xon , ﬁrst

n a e o n t he o ly attack ed t he Siluri ans by sea. L t r Saxons c am e by land from t he conq uere d p arts Of

a t he ea . n he f o e w as the a e Brit in lyi ng to st A ot r D n , and at tim es I rish pi rat es m ade d escents upon t h es e

h s a . a a a e e a e co sts W t, with ﬁghting g in t th s inv d rs , and a e w ne o e s t he qu rr ls ith ighb uring W l h ,

e o ne f e history of this p riod is long account o bloodsh d .

n t he ea e w ho it a Amo g rly princ s , is s id fought in h w a a a t e Sa as t h e ea . Siluri g inst xons , Arthur Gr t So

e e a w as he t ha a e e a r nown d a w rrior , t in ft r y rs m any t al es w e re written about his valour and great

i e ee . e e e are e t d ds Som of th s not tru , but is v ry pl easant for us to think that t h e person ab out w hom th es e h eart stirring stori es are told w as a rul er of our w n o n ativ e country .

’ ' e e am e r a a e a Aft r Arthur s tim , c Mo g n , c ll d Morg n

Mw nf w th e e r a e y a r (Morgan Court ous o Pe c ful). F rom him e t he na e nw t h e e a e Of com s m Morga g , W lsh n m

h He w as a e a d f the ea Of t e County . it who m d C r if s t

e e t Of a nd ma e the e e gov rnm n his princip lity , a d pr s nt

m a e a a e e a e w Mon outhshire i nto s p r t t rritory c ll d G ent .

Th e new d e was e e o ne ivision , Gw nt , gov rn d by of

’ Morgan s sons .

28 4 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN they sl e w n early half of the ir en emi es b efore th e y co uld escap e .

In t he ninth century anoth er A r thf ael w as prince of

a e t he a e m a e e Glamorg n . In his r ign D n s d th ir ﬁrst

e e e e . e a a e th e a app earanc on th s shor s Th y r v g d l nd ,

e a aw a and succeed d i n c rrying y much pl under .

hf l w a e e e h b e A rt ae s succ d d by his son R ys , who must

m e e as o ne t h e e e a re emb r d of b n f ctors of his country .

’ In his fat h er s d ays s e vere storms and floods spoil ed

nd th e ama e a t h e . a e th e e crops This , d g c us d by Dan s ,

a e brought about a famin e . Rhys m d up his mind that h e w t r t a a a He ould y to s op such w nt occurring g in . mad e a law th at comm and ed a c ertain qu antity of grain

e a to b e rais d all through his l nds .

In t he plain district (Y Fro) o ne h alf o f th e l and

w as b e e e t o t h e c and to d vot d growth of orn , t he other

a was e a h a and az ca h lf to be us d for r ising y , gr ing ttle .

I n th e hills (Y Blaen au) o ne p art in four w as to b e

w w and t he e a e w a so n ith corn , r m ind r s for hay and

z Th e a w e gra ing purpos es . only l nd th at as exc pted from this law w as forest or wood according to t he limit

The e w of t h e law . r sult as that i ncreased attention

w as a w and so u u l p id to corn gro ing, fr itf l did t he and “ bec om e that Glamorgan w as call ed t he Ladi e of all

’ e ee th e Countri es . In ord r to m t D an es on more eve n

e e a e t rms , Rhys caus d numb r of ships to b e built .

w as c ee e e Rhys suc d d by How ll . In this r eign a qu arr el aros e about th e o w nership of some land called

Yst r ad Yw e e Th which is now i n H r fordshire . e

e a a and t he e Of D nev o r princ of Gl morg n , princ y , both GLA MORGAN UNDER THE WELSH P RINCE S 28 5

m e a and a a e clai d this l nd , m ny b ttl es w r e fought about

The it . qu arrel w as still in full swing w h e n t he

a am e a es and w as o ne t he Norm ns c into W l , it of c aus e s o f t h e di ff er enc es that k ept th e W elsh of Sout h

e e h a Wal s from j oining tog th er against t e inv ders .

t he e e a e a a In t nth c ntury , s cond Morg n , Morg n

aw th e e w He a as e a a . M r ( Gr t), princ of Gl morg n is

e e Mw f and a e a n awr . som tim s call d Morg n y II , lso

a Hen t he Old He w as 8 7 and Morg n ( ), born i n 2,

e 1 1 a 0 0 . e a di d in In his r ign , King Edg r of Engl nd d ecid e d th at Yst rad Yw w as a p art of t he possessions

Of th e e a a Th e a e e e princ of Gl morg n . S xons w r v ry

e m e e a e e troubl so in this r ign , King Edg r hims lf onc

ea an a he Et h elﬂ eda ee l ding rmy into t district . , qu n

e a l ed an t he of M rci , also army into county , but in

9 1 8 she w as ea and e On d ef ted by Morgan kill d .

e e a e a t h e e e m et s v r l oth rs occ sions , Saxons w r an d d e ea h The f ted by t e Welsh forc es s ent against them .

a e a e e e e e 9 8 7 e D n s lso w r v ry troubl som . In , th y

a e an e e t a e ve e a e h ad e m d xc p ion lly s r r id . Th y com a a and t e a a e cross from Cornw ll , on this visi th y r v g d and destroy ed almost all th e church es and coll eges in

am a a a a t a e e Gl org n . Ll nd ff an d Ll ntwi M j or suff r d

e e e e v ry s v r ly .

w r an a e e 1 0 1 He w as a e G g b ec m princ i n 0 . Wis

e and e t he Law Of a rul r , put into forc Apostolic Morg n

Mw nf aw r and t h e Law t he y , Agricultural of Rhys ,

f A r hf a l 1 9 a a a e O t e . 0 son In 2 , b nd of Irish pir t s

e h The a e a e a a t e attack d t e coast . n tiv s ros g inst h m in ea n e and set o ﬁe e the a er gr t umb rs , s rc ly on inv d s 286 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

e a a e b ld i t that th ey kill d l rg num er . O wr ers tell us th at so ﬁ e rc e w as the b attl e that hors es stood to th eir

Gwr an w a th w fetlocks in blood . g s e prin c e h o gave th e Long M eadow i n t he north of t he county as

a t h e ab a t h common l nd to inh it nts of e distric t .

Gwr an w as ee e e w e a g succ d d by his broth r Ho ll , s

w m n e w his son I estyn as a v ery b ad a . Wh n Ho ell

e e ca e th e e . e w as a a di d , I styn m to thron I styn lw ys

a a t h e ce D nevo r and in ﬁghting g inst prin s of y , following this qu arr el h e h elp e d to bring about th e

a He w as t he a a e fall of his princip lity . l st n tiv lord

e a a a a e a a e or princ of Gl morg n , losing his l nds ft r b ttl

t h e ea ea a 1 0 8 9 e n t he a on H th n r C rdiff in , wh Norm ns

i z h m n h e under Robert F t a o w er e t victors .

CHAPTER LI .

Th e No m an C o n uest o f Glam r q o rg an.

WE h av e already read a littl e about t h e qu arr el t hat existed be t w een t he princ es of Gl amorgan and thos e

D ne v o r e a t he e of y , who rul d l most whol of South

’ Gwr an s me th e wo e a e . e t a W l s In I styn ab g ti , st t s

e O e a e h ad ee w re constantly ﬁghting . th r c us s b n a ed t he e o ne w as a dd to ﬁrst disput , of whic h th t I estyn and his sons wanted to get th e thron e Of

Dynev o r for th e ms elves .

ab Tewd wr w as e D nev o r Rhys , who princ of y , l ed an a a a 1 0 In rmy into Gl morg n i n 8 0 . return ,

28 8 TH E STORY OF GLAMORGAN

a w P nrh h a a e as e s. in t e Rhondd , ft rw rds kno n y The Norm ans w er e p aid th e su m promis ed th e m for their d ff m Ei e c e an set O e . no n no w a s rvi s , for ho ske d for

ew a w ee m ea a a his r rd , hich , fr fro f r of tt ck from

D ne v o r e t e e . y , I s yn r fus d

Eino n e a e at ea Of a t e a , nr g d this br ch f i h , w nt ft er

m a e He n t e a his Nor n fri nds . fou d h m on bo rd ship , b ut cont rar y winds h ad pr evented t h em from sailing

He a e w a e and a a . e w y m d his y to th m , told th m h o w h e ee e a e e He had b n tr t d by I styn . pointed out

t e t h e e a e t he and to h m troubl d st t of country , told th e m th at eve n th e m en of Gl amorgan were tire d of

’ - Ho w ea w a Iest yn s mis doings . sy s it th en to take such a d esirabl e country for th ems elves &

The Normans w ere no t t h e p eopl e to want much

a a Eino n co xing to do thing of this sort, and easily

A Eino n had a a h o t e e . S t e g th m to r turn s id , m ny of

Th e w native s j oin e d th em against I estyn . t o armi es m et a t h e ea ea a on Mynydd Bych n , now H th , n r C rdiff .

e and his m en e e ef ea e and t h e e I styn w r d t d , princ

ﬂ f r e He ﬂ d w as e ee o . e a a e forc d to his lif to mon st ry ,

e h e e t ea th e e wh re r main ed un il his d th . So anci nt and inde p endent state of Gl amorgan pass ed by right of conqu est into Norm an h ands .

Som e writers think that th e account of t he coming of t h e Normans given above is no t quit e correct . Th ey think t hat t h e conqu est of Glamorgan was only

h e a a e e a part of t e gen r l N orm n Conqu st . It is tru that Willi am t h e Conqu eror started on an exp edition

t Wa e b u t as o ne e h e i nto Sou h l s ; no oppos d him , GLAMOR GAN IN TH E TWELFTH CENTU R Y 28 9

’

u e a a e . a t rn d it into pilgrim g to St D vid s . Willi am

a c t o h d Rufus , c ording English history , a started

a t ale e t o e e th e e ag ins W s , in ord r compl t conqu st of th e southern p art of Gr eat Britai n.

1 0 9 h e a e as f ar as O e In 2 , m rch d lv ston , in

e e w e e h e e a e a h Glouc st r , h r b c m so ill th t e could

Th e w no t b e e . e e t as e a mov d xp di ion thus d l yed .

e e a th e a e a e Stil l this do s not prov th t ccount giv n bov , w e e Old w c e hich is giv n in som ritings , is not orr ct .

e e d e e at all a w This , how v r , o s not conc rn us . Wh t e

’ e e e t a a e Fit zhamo n s ef ea o f must r m mb r is , h t ft r d t I es tyn ab Gw rgan th e Old W elsh state of Gl am organ b ecame almost altogeth er a Norman lordship .

CHAPTER LII .

Gl amorg an in t h e Tw e lf t h C e nt u ry .

FITZHA MON h aving becom e poss essor of t he Lordship

a a as w as no w a e a e e of Gl morg n , it c ll d , m d his h ad

w a e a . e e as a qu arters at Cardiff H r kind of c stl , prob bly

e a e a a . of wood , ﬁx d on mound and surround d by mo t A c oll ection of mud huts contain e d within a w all

h e O e h e was e e b e v e the formed t town . nc s ttl d , di id d l ands belonging to t he lordship among his Norman and

e Of e th e e a e e e Welsh fri nds . cours b st l nds w r giv n to t h a e and th e e had b e e e Norm n follow rs , W lsh to cont nt with th e poorer l ands i n the northern part Of the county . U 290 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

Fit zhamo n e t h e a e k pt Lordships of C rdiff , Bov rton ,

K nﬁ I rll m a a e a e . Th Ll ntwit M j or , g and Tir for hi s lf e

th e Ll nv i a e e a last was in y V ll y , and was k pt by him s

w e a e e e Th e ee th ere as pl nty of g m th r . thr chi ef

n a — a e and Kenﬁ tow s in Glamorg n C rdiff , Cowbridg g, ‘ a the e He w w ere situ ted in lordships k pt by him . as a

a e man and t e e a e a e e a c r ful ook v ry c r to m k hims lf s fe . To h elp him to d efend th e borders of his l ands h e gave

ea - e th e Lordshi p of N th to his half broth r , Sir Richard

t h e e t e and w e e e Grenvill e . Thus as rn st rn bord rs were

- in t he hands of t h e half broth ers .

Th e settling of th e coun t y by t he Normans w as

a e e e e slow . For long tim th y h ld th ir ground by

the e e a e n m th e sword , for in hills w r l rg u bers of m n e e e e . e e th e ea discont nt d W lsh Soon , how v r , w ker fortresses of th e Old Welsh lords gave w ay to t he

w e t h e No rm aii e strong ston e to rs of s. Th se tow ers grew into the m any castl es w hich afterwards dotted

The m e and e Of t e e th e county . nu b r str ngth h s castl es tell us ho w mu c h t he Normans feared that the brave

m e w e e th e Welsh n ould driv th m from country . It is a great compliment to our forefath ers that such strongholds w er e considered n ec essary t o protect t h e m Th m a e . e a e w e e Nor ns from th c stl s , ho v r , ﬁrmly

e t he a the a establish d Norm n hold on land , s th ey

e a e e a e Of e e in a a afford d s cur pl c r fug c se of ttack .

w as w th e a e As usual ith Norm ns , th y instituted the

e a t e ea t he Of t he F ud l Sys m inst d of old laws country . Th e Feudal System pr essed v ery hardly on m en who

e o e ee e e e e w er much m r fr b for it was nforc d . Naturally

f Ge tt . Turbe rv ille and the Lo rd o y GLAMORGAN IN THE TWEL F‘ TH CENTURY 29 3

and ea Of e a e under his hand s l , many th ir nci nt rights

a a e e ee as and customs . This gr nt m d th m as fr could

a e e a n b e exp ect ed under Norm n rul . Ev ry time th t a y

e e the e e e e e fresh burd ens w r put upon p ople th y r b ll d , and thus th ey managed to avoid all the h arder burd ens

m SO e e t he a of the F eudal Syste . much w r Glamorg n

e e e t Welshmen envi ed th ir privil g s , hat numbers of their countrymen came into t he county from oth er parts of Wal es to escap e from t he hard r ul e of t he

Normans i n their own districts .

1 1 t and w zh n e 0 7 . as Fit amo di d i n He lef no sons ,

e e e t ae was t he a succ e d d by Rob r of C n , who husb nd of

’ e e e t he his daughter M ab el . In Rob rt s tim liv d

a a a a e e writers Car doc of Ll nc rf n , G offr y of Monmouth ,

e e a e e ea and Walter d e Map es . Th s schol rs w r gr tly e ncouraged by th e interest that Rob ert took in their

work . 1 as ee e 1 47 a . Robert w succ d d , in , by his son Willi m One of the chi ef events during his rul e w as t he

e th e e e a e e reb llion of W lsh und r Ivor B ch , m ntion d in

a e a e 1 1 8 3 and a former ch pt r . Willi m di d in , his l ands pass e d into th e hands Of the husbands Of his

a e ne e e w a ac a d ught rs. O of th s s John L kl nd , who

h end e afterwards b ecame king of England . In t e th y

e h e e e d e a e b ecam t poss ssion of Gilb rt Cl r , the son of

’

e e a e . Amic , William s s cond d ught r

These changes in t h e own ership of the lordship

he e e a e w ere taken advantage of by t W lsh . Th y m d

e e a o h e d Of th e a r peat d r ids int t lan s Norm ns , killing

e e e and a a e e . a th ir h rdsm n , driving w y th ir h rds M ny 29 4 TH E STORY o r GLAMOR G AN

a e e e a e and e e of the c stl s w r att ck d , som wer burnt .

Th e e e t h e W lshm n living in lowlands did not , as a

e e a rul , j oin in thes r ids which were carri ed out by t he

e W lsh of the hills .

CHAPTER LIII .

Glamo r an u d g n e r t h e De C lares .

T DE t h e new a GILBER CLARE , Lord of Glamorg n , was Ea Th rl of Hertford . e Lords of Gl amorgan wer e also

e e h e e new Earls of Glouc st r , and t addition of th se l ands t o his other estates made De Clare th e most

e a He e a pow rful b ron in England . and his d scend nts

a e e ea ruled in Glamorg n for n arly a hundr d y rs , but

e e h th y seldom liv d for long together in t e lordship .

We do not know much Of the affairs of Gl amorgan

e e e e a a during this p riod . The W lsh mad sev r l r i ds

at the e w e ea e e tim h n a lord was d d , but they w r

general ly driven back by thos e in charge of th e county . Gilbert de Clare was o ne of the barons wh o forced

he a a a a a t he King John to sign t M gna C rt . It is s id th t barons who were agains t t he king m et on s everal

r diﬂ The t he a e e é ea Ca . occasions at c stl of B aupr , n r

e ea ar e e a t rms of the Gr t Ch ter w r drawn up , so it is s id ,

he e e . e e . e t in this castl Wh n H nry III cam to thron , n Gilbert w as o e of his most loyal subj ects .

’ Gilb ert s was e i son , Richard , v ry young when his

1 e i n 1 a at e e 9 . 230 f h r di d in 22 The W lsh , , att cked

ea and e k a e N th , forc d the mon s of M rgam to pay th m

29 6 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

a a e a e e e e 1 34 took w y th ir l nds . Th y w r forgiv n in 2 ,

e w e e e and th ir l ands er r turn d t o them .

“ de e a e th e Red a u ee e Gilbert Clar , c ll d E rl , s cc d d

He e t he a his fath er in 1 262 . support d barons ag inst

He e de Henry II I . j oin d Simon Montfort in calling

e e a a a e 1 2 5 e tog th r the f mous P rli m nt of 6 . Wh n

wa a e t he e h e e a e a Ed rd I . c m to thron b c m a loy l 1 h sup port er of th e king . In 282 e w as ent rusted with

’ t he m a th e a e e co m nd of king s rmy in South Wal s , wh n h e m et and defeated a W elsh army in Carmarth en

e shir .

About 1 290 a quarrel took place b etwee n Gilbert

he e e w e and t Earl of H r ford , ith r gard to some land on

h he n w t e e t a e . bord r of cou ty , hich both cl im d This brought about several ﬁghts betw ee n t h e vassals of

th e a a w ar i a two lords , kind of loc l civil . K ng Edw rd

e t e e b a e e e e did not lik h s di stur nc s , and ord r d th m to

. e w e h e e nd stop As th y still nt on , ﬁn d both lords , a took aw ay m any of th e privil eges enj oy ed by th e

English lords in Wal es .

e t h e Red ae e e - Gilb rt built C rphilly Castl , w ll nigh

t he e a Th e ee e e largest fortr ss i n Brit in . n d for th s

s e h ad a e aw a it t o strong ca tl s p ss d y , and is curious note that o ne of t he b est exampl e s o f Norman castl es was built at a tim e wh en st rong castles w ere not

c very mu h wanted .

e e 1 29 5 e e t a e e Gilb rt di d in , l aving his s t s to his littl

w as ﬁ ve e a t e e . son , no h r Gilb rt, who only y ars old Th e young Gilbert gre w up to b e a brave soldi er and

O a e as w h an abl e l eader . wing to disput to o should ’ LLEWELYN RREN S R EBELLION 29 7

ea t he v a t th e a c 1 31 4 h e l d n a B ttle of Banno kburn in ,

e a a t he t e men. rush d on to tt ck Sco s , unsupport d by his

He w as instantly overpowere d and slain .

De e e a e e a e e Clar l ft no m l h irs , and for tim his wif

e a a e her th e a h ad rul d Gl morg n . Aft r , b rons who

a e e a e t he e ta e . 1 31 7 m rri d his sist rs , cl im d s t s In ,

a e t e a e Edward II . g v most of h m to his f vourit , Hugh

l e e e e h ad e t he e e e . D sp ns r , who marri d ld st sist r Thus Gl amorgan passed from th e De Clares to t h e

es D pensers .

CHAPTER LIV .

’ Llew ely n Bre n s Re b ellio n.

t h e a e the e THE uns ettl ed condition of county , ft r d ath

b e d a e t he e e e e a of Gil rt e Cl are, g v W lsh chanc s for s v r l

The e successful r aids against t h e English . most s rious

1 1 - e e e of th ese took pl ac e I n 3 5 6 und er Ll w lyn Br n , “ ” e e a e e e t h e som tim s c ll d Ll w lyn Ugly , Lord of

e e High r Sengh nydd .

l I ’ e e e e wa I . s a Hugh D sp ns r , Ed rd f vourite , took

b e e a e to e e forci l poss ssion of l nds b longing Ll w lyn , and turn ed him out of some Ofﬁc es h e had h eld under

D e e e a d e e a h e had e Cl are . Ll w l yn lso consi r d th t som

claim to Caerphi lly as a descendant of Ivor Bach .

ea h e h ad a a a t he a R ll y no sh dow of cl im , as l nd on w hi ch Caerphilly stands had b ee n sold to o ne of t he

De a e e e e b a e e t he Cl r s . Ll w lyn tri d to o t in r dr ss from 29 8 TH E STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

. a a e a e e king Edw rd g v him no symp thy , and Ll w lyn

e e a a ea e r turn d to Gl morg n , vowing veng nc .

a t he a a e he had a R ising st nd rd of r volt , soon con — siderab le army under his command some say to t h e

e m en e h e m e e numb r of . Wh n co pl t d his

He e a h e e e a a e th e . pr p rations , ﬁ rc ly tt ck d English

e and n captur d bur ed m any of their castl es . An old

e e a He e a the W lsh writ r s ys , kill d so m ny of English and a e e Of Normans , that no Englishm n v n thought

e a a e e t e e e e e r m ining in Gl morgan . In th s im s th r w r ,

“

e e a e and w ﬁ a w as e wa d . in v ry vill g to n , of ci ls kno n st r s

e e e t ax c e ew e e all h e Th y w r oll ctors . Ll lyn kill d

a and a e h e e b e e aw a coul d c tch , c us d t offic to don y with .

Th e rebellion grew so threatening t hat th e king

e an a e th e a e e and s nt rmy und r E rl of H r ford , Lord w Mortimer of Wigmore to put do n th e rebels . A body of W elshm en under o ne Rhys ab Grifﬁth also

’ e th e ew e t a j oin d king s forc es . Ll lyn hought th t his m en a e th e w n h e e ea e stood no ch nc on lo la ds , so r tr t d t o t h e mountains in t h e n eighbourhood of M erthyr

T dﬁl . e e h e e a e ee s y H r h ld out for bout nin w k , but

t he end he e e in gav hims lf up .

Ll ewelyn and his t wo sons w ere s ent as prisoners to

h e n e e e ea e t Tower of Londo . His follow rs w r tr t d

e e and e e a e t o e a e with gr at kindn ss , w r llow d r t in th ir

a The e e e eat e the l nds . prison rs w r kindly tr d by

d e e e n and a e e e a e an set ee . ki g , , l t r , w r p rdon d fr D sp ns r managed to capture Ll ew e lyn some time aft er this .

He e a e e e th e imprison d him in C rdiff Castl , wh r

30 0 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

CHAPTER LV .

Glamorg an f rom Hug h le Despenser t o t h e T udo r

Pe rio d .

IN 1 31 7 the lordship passed into the hands of Hugh ls

e e e w as a m an and w as D espenser . D sp ns r wicked , always trying to exte nd his lands and make his power

a e He e a e De a e gr e t r . forc d baron nam d Mowbr y to giv

e and a e e up the Lordship of Gow r to him , m d his broth r in-law change his shar e of lands in Glamorgan for a

a e e Monmouthshire estate . The ch ng s wer only brought about after much ﬁghting .

t e and as d Caerphilly Cas l C tell Coch , Llangynwy , had been taken from the Mortimer family by D espenser

e 1 e d e e a e an som where about 30 7. Rog r Mortim r m d

a e e a e e . a e unsuccessful tt mpt to r c ptur his prop rty L t r ,

w e ee and when t he seat of ar b tw n Edward II . his

I a a he r e- e a b arons lay n Gl morg n , captur d Ll ngynwyd

Iarll Cas tle and th e lordship of Tir . Wh en Bristol Castle was taken by t h e barons under

and e t he and e s e e Qu een Isab ella Mortim r , king D p ns r

e ﬂ ed sea a e escaped . Th y by , but contr ry winds forc d

h The the m to land on t e shores of this county . king

e e e h e u h e e sought r fug , wh n fo nd could go no furth r , in he e ea t h e e e Of t Abb y of N th , which had privil g

a a e e e e t he c e ae . s nctu ry . D sp ns r w nt to astl of C rphilly

The e him ae w as a e king tri d to j oin , but C rphilly t k n , and D esp enser was forc ed to ﬂ ee . FROM 1 31 7 To 1 49 5 30 1

Many stori es are told in the county of the wanderings

He wa of t he unfortunate king . s at Margam Abb ey

e h e e for a time , and th n it is thought tri d to get sh elter

w e in Ll angyn yd Castle . This castl was now in the

’ a e t he e e a e h nds of Mortim r , king s n my . Edw rd th n ,

e at a e the e so the story go s , hid a f rmhous in n ighbour

a e Gell leno r He e e hood , c ll d y Fawr . disguis d hims lf as a a e a and e e e e a ea e f rm s rv nt , wh n his n mi s pp r d near,

k e ha e h e hid in an o a tree . A ston s b en raised to show

H e h e the e e ee . e t spot wh r this oak tr stood l ft district, and i n t he end w as captur ed near Llantris ant with a f w e The w e e of his follow rs . king as tak n to England and e e e e a e e e e w as imprison d in B rk l y C stl . D sp ns r

a e e e and e e a t k n to H r ford x cuted as traitor .

Q ueen Isabella and th e young Prince Edward

f a e e remained for a ew months in Gl morgan . Th y liv d at a e a e and ea v rious tim s at C rdiff , Ca rphilly , N th ,

’ a n e th e t he a e cti g as rul rs of country in king s n m .

w a e e e e t he e Ed rd di d , and his d ath ncourag d W lsh to

h e Of t he make a raid into t English districts county .

e a and e e a e Th y att cked captur d Ca rphilly C stl , but it w - n d e l Z as re take by William a ouch .

’ e e e w had ee m e t he D sp ns r s wido , who b n i prison d in

1 9 he et ee 3 . S Tower of London , was s fr in 2 gave up

l r th e e sh e a e a a l he lands to Crown . Wh n m rri d Willi m de la Z h er a e e es e her ouch most of l nds w r r tor d to , h er Her a a e as le as dowry. husb nd ct d young Hugh

’ h e D esp ens er s guardian un til e cam of age . This Hugh w as a e e He e him e at the a br v soldi r . distinguish d s lf 30 2 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

a a 1 1 e 337. He e 49 n v l Battl of Sluys in di d in 3 , and

a e ea Old ee e his son Edw rd , th n only six y rs , succ d d him .

a ee e o f a e at the Edw rd , when only fourt n y ars g , fought

a e i r d Po ict e s. He ha a B ttl of , no doubt, in his train number of the arch ers for w hich this part of Wal es

a was f mous .

e t he e e e e w as an a e Non of oth r D sp ns rs of y import nc .

’ m a wa w as e e ea Tho s , Ed rd s son , cond mn d to d th as a

a e th e e e e w as a e was tr itor . Befor s nt nc c rri d out , he murdered by t he p eopl e of Bristol whom he had

e he o ﬂ ended . In his tim t several villages and much l and w ere covered by sand blown from the seashore in

’ he h t e a . a a n ighbour ood of M rgam Thom s s son , Rich rd ,

e e a his a a e e di d wh n boy , and l nds p ss d to his sist r

a e m a Of th e Is b l , who rried in turn two cousins

ea B uchamp family .

Her e e e daught r , Ann , marri d Richard , Earl of

a e a e a Warwick, who pl y d a l rg p rt in the history of

a He e e a e Engl nd . is b tt r known by his nickn m of ” The a e e a e a e King M k r . Th ir elder d ught r, Is b l ,

a e e e e ar e e a m rri d G org , Duk of Cl nce , broth r to Edw rd IV .

’ George is the princ e who was drowned by the king s

e f Th e a e a e ord rs in a butt O wine . second d ught r m rri d

a e a e VI . f e Edw rd , Princ of W les , the son of H nry A t r

ea she e e Of e e his d th marri d Richard , Duk Glouc st r , who afterwards became King Richard III .

A f e w years after th e death of Richard at the Battle

a a a e t h e a s of Bosworth , Gl morg n p ss d into h nd of King

e . h e he a e e H nry VII , w o gav t l nds to his uncl , Jasp r

e e e i the Tudor, Earl of P mbrok . Jasp r Tudor bu lt

30 4 THE STORY OF GL AMORGAN

’ s a a e the e the ea Bishop p l c and hous of Archd con .

He e e t he Of a all e e o n d stroy d town C rdiff , xc pt e

t ee a e h s r t , in which stood hous of t e Franciscan Order

w ho e e a a le au e of monks , w r f vour b to his c s .

’ Owen s army in 1 40 5 w as mostly compos ed Of t h e m en a a and m e w as of Gl morg n Mon outh . This forc

e ea a e e d f ted on two occ sions , onc in Monmouthshir

n e e e w and o c in Br cknockshir . This last battle as a

e he e e t w o e e s rious blow to t W lsh princ . His sons w r

e and he w as e ﬂ ee kill d , forc d to . A story is told that he e o ne Of e e e a e e sought shelt r from his n mi s , Sir L wr nc

B k ll Th e e er ro es of East Orchard Castle . W lsh h ero

e a a e e e a e a was disguis d s Fr nch g ntl m n . Aft r dmit tance into the castl e h e w as informed by Sir Lawrence that t he r etainers were all out s earching for t hat traitor

h e e Glyndwr w h o w as known to b e in t n ighbourhood . Th e W elsh prince rem ain ed at East Orchard for a f ew days and on his departur e made hims elf kno wn to

t He a a e a e t he his h os . lso told him th t as r p ym nt for

h e e e e h e no t e th e kindn ess had r c iv d , would d stroy roof t h at sh eltered him when he paid his next visit to

an a a e e w as th e county at t he h ead of rmy . Sir L wr nc

e e h e ea e w as t a so surpris d , wh n h rd whom his gu st , h t

n we and th e a he w as he fail ed to a s r him , story says th t

and e e a a e e e struck dumb , n v r fterw rds r cov r d his

Sp eech .

ee e e e t he a an re As might have b n xp ct d , Gl morg shi

h e bards were ve ry f avourable to t e caus of Glyndwr .

e at t he a e Of Penrh s Th ey h eld an eist ddfod mon st ry y ,

a a e e a e. The in t he Rhondd V ll y , und r his p tronag ‘ OWEN GLYNDWR S REBELLION 30 5

Franciscan monks of this mon astery w e re strong

e c a II. and O e w support rs of Ri h rd of w n Glynd r . On a e e e men e ccount of th ir support of th s two , s veral of th e k e e e e e the e e V mon s w r x cut d in r ign of H nry . , and the na e w as e mo st ry brok n up .

Glyndwr paid a s e cond visi t to t he county tow ards he nd a ee He e e t e of his c r r . d stroy d some castl es

e belonging t o his en emi s . During this visit b e

e e e b ut a e to a e a t e w b si g d , f il d t k , Coity C s l , hich was

e e e the o ne t he Berkro lles a d f nd d for king by of f mily.

’ Old e e Gl nd wr s t An writ r , t lling of y raids in o t he

t a He a w a e and e e e e coun y , s ys l id st quit f nc l ss t he

d a e t e l a an al . He l nds , g v h m in common to took a a th e w e f and c and w y from po r ul ri h , distributed t he

t he w a and t he a plunder among e k poor . M ny of the higher orders and the chi e f tains were obliged to ﬂ ee

a e t he t and e c the to Engl nd , und r suppor prot tion of ” king .

A battl e w as fought on Bryn Owen (no w Stalling

’ d Ow e a w ea e . o n a e Down), n r Cowbri g n s rmy ft r a

e e a a e e t ee te ﬁ rc ﬁght th t l st d igh n hours . Af r t he

f o r e a battle Ow e n l e ft oth r p rts of Wal es . Though

a f e w c a a e e vict orious on o c sions in his l t r y ars , his

e and O e w as c en emi es ﬁnally triumph d , w n omp el l ed

’ w in e W to ceas e s triving to his anc stors crown . e are

e e b w as a as a w e a not sure wh r his ody l id , but rit r s ys , “ a e the ea e e e C mro His gr v is in h rt of v ry tru y .

e e e e e a e e at e Th er , for v r , from g n r tion to g n r ion , gr y

’ e e re a a e Owe n s h art li s d aming on , dre ming on , s f for ” and e e ever v r . 30 6 TH E STORY OF GLAMORGAN

When the reb ellion w as at an end the lot of th e

e w as a e a e e e e W lsh much h rd r th n b for . S v re laws

e e a e a a e and Of e w r p ss d g inst th m , many thos who had side d with Owen lost th eir l ands . Many of the Welshmen of Glamorgan w er e among those who lost

e a e e e a e the th ir l nds , but wh n Jasp r Tudor b c m lord , he e e a the a e r stor d m ny of l nds to the rightful h irs , and allowed th e Welsh some of their anci ent right s and customs .

CHAPTER LVII .

Th ud Pe i d e T or r o .

a e e Of e e THOU GH J sp r Tudor , Duk B dford , had mad t he lot of t he p eople of the country much easi er than

was e h e a e e Of t he it wh n c m into poss ssion lordship , t he people were still greatly Oppressed by t he cru el

had ee a e a e B t he laws that b n p ss d ag inst th m . ut laws of How ell Bda w er e y et in force in some remote parts

Mw nf awr the as e e a e a . of county , w r lso thos of Morg n y Th e English were very hostil e to their Welsh

and e e n eighbours , lost no chanc of killing th m , or of

e e robbing the m of their goods . It is inter sting to not

e n h e e the e that H nry VII . whe h ld lordship , styl d ” e Rex a &c and Glamo r anie hims lf , Angli , . , Dominus g ”

&c . et Morganic (King of England , , and Lord of

Glamorgan and Morganwg).

th e e e e e e As W lsh in Wal s , g n rally , suff red so

e e t e O h e e s ver ly from h ppressions of t English , th y

30 8 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

h e e e a a e Kenﬁ t is tim w r C rdiff , Llantris nt, Cowbridg , g,

e a ea a ea and . Ab r von , N th , Sw ns Loughor This representation of the county continu ed unt il the Reform

1 8 32 t h e e c e t at a t e Act of , with x ption h for short im

w its o w n e e S ansea sent a m ember of . This privil g

e we b u t w as a was grant d by Crom ll , it withdr wn by

e Charl s II .

1 547 and the a e . e King H nry VIII di d in , l nds

e t h e a e a b longing to old lordship p ss d to his son , Edw rd

w a e e am e e a VI . Ed ard g v th m to Willi H rb rt , E rl of

e nd a a e a P mbroke a B ron C rdiff . Anoth r Willi m H erb ert h ad b ecome possess ed of Gower in th e reign

a . e a of Edw rd IV , whos family still owns much l nd in

h The em e a e t he a t at district . P brok f mily h ld l nds

e w a 1 6 3 e e a e giv n by Ed rd VI . until 8 , wh n th y p ss d by m arriage into th e hands of t he son of th e notorious

e e e He had e a . nd at Judg J ffr ys no childr n ,

ea a e m a his d th , his widow m rri d Tho s , Lord

and e a e Mountj oy Viscount Windsor . Th ir d ught r and

e e a e th e a e e h ir ss m rri d John , ﬁrst M rqu ss of But and t he a e t he e e nc s or of t pr s nt lord .

t he e za e th e t e a During r ign of Eli b th , coun y s nt

e a a t he a numb r of ships to ﬁght g inst Spanish Arm da.

a a e m en m a Two Gl morg nshir , Sir Tho s Butt on and Sir

e a e e m 7 Rob rt M ns l , distinguish d the s elves as s ailors

e during this r ign . Ships were buil t at s everal Of t he

e a ports , som of which c rri ed on a c onsiderabl e

a A f smuggling tr d e . ew of thes e were littl e b etter t a a e and e e t h h n pir t s , pr y d upon e shipping passing up and w the and do n Bristol English Ch annels . Th e THE STUART PERIOD 30 9

Of the and the a th e e a mouth Ely , b ys of Gow r co st,

e e a e a t h a e e the w r f vourit h unts of e pir t s . Som of

th e a a e ships of Arm d w re wrecked on the coast . It is said that the roof of Monknash Church is made from the e o ne timb rs of of these Spanish gall eons .

CHAPTER LVIII .

St uart Pe riod .

THE chi ef historic al events in Glamorgan during this p eriod w ere in conn ection with t he Civil War b etween

and a a e . The w as Charl es I . his P rli m nt county , on

’ he e a and e t he t whol , Roy list , strongly support d king s

m a e a e cause with m en and on ey . A ch ng took pl c in the sympathi es of the p eopl e when Princ e Rup ert appointed Colon el Charl es Gerard to command t he

e e a w as a man forces in South Wal es . Colon l G r rd

e a e and m e of overb aring m nn r , his thods of doing his

e e th e e a e e duties off nd d Royalists , who b c m v ry

ff e disa ect d .

1 4 a e the a e Of a e a e In 6 5, ft r B ttl N s by , Ch rl s sought

e a a e re . e r efug in R glan C stl , in Monmouthshi Th n

for a f ew d ays h e w as a guest at Ruperr a. From

Ru erra he e Cardiﬁ his e e p visit d , obj ct b ing to try to

i h e f e e ra se a force to s end to t r eli ef O H r ford . In

a t he e a e at Cardiﬁ his di ry , king wrot th t he din d on

0 t h 1 645 and a a Ll ancaiach July 2 , , g in at on August

th He a e ee t he e ee 5 . must h v b n in district b tw n those

dates . 31 0 TH E STORY OF GLAMORGAN

h e the e a e an a W n king tri d to r is rmy , he found

h he e e e e e e e t at t p opl w r not v ry r ady to h lp him . On

9 th he e a ff . a a e July 2 , rod from C rdi to St F g ns to m et a a m en a e e e body of Gl morgan th t had gath r d th r e .

a e w as e e e e e e men Ch rl s v ry coolly r c iv d by th s , who ,

a e a a e e a drawn up in b ttl rr y , numb r d bout four

ff e a . ea e e e thous nd Inst d of o ring th ir s rvic s , they a e a e a e b e e e e sk d th t their gri v nc s should r dr ss d . One of th eir chi ef d emands was that Gerard should b e removed from the command of t h e army in South

a e e e e a Wales . Ch rl s promis d , but th y insist d th t what

b e e th ey wanted should don at once .

e e e t an e e a e a d a Things w r l f in uns ttl d st t th t y ,

and a e e e a . Th e e da Ch rl s r turn d to C rdiff n xt y , a

a e at e On meeting w s h ld C fn , four mil es north of

f ew a . e e e e a e as C rdiff H r , only a of the W lshm n c m , t h e king was afraid to trust hims elf to the power of

ee h e a the whol e body . At this m ting , gr eed to do

l a t e a e e n early a l th t h y sk d him to , and G rar d was

The a e Of th e em a a a ff re moved . m nn r r ov l g in o ende d

Glamo r anit es t h e had th e touchy g , so king to go away m without his ar y.

e a a t a a a e The Parliam nt ri ns , king dv ntag of this

e a a e e the discontent , won ov r l rg numb r of Royalists

e SO e e u ee a to their sid . w ll did th y s cc d , th t by t he

a e had e e the h tim e Ch rl s giv n hims lf up to Scots , t e county w as almost e ntirely on t he sid e of th e Parli a

a a e e e was a e a ment . C rdiff C stl , how v r , c ptur d by

a 1 47 a small party of Roy lists in 6 . M j or Ge neral

the a a e Laugharn e soon retook it for P rli m nt .

31 2 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

e e and a ea th ir grasp . Disciplin gr ter numb er of

e e t he a and w in a the cavalry h lp d English to r lly , b ck

had The a ground from which they b een drive n . b ttl e

e a e e e and e a t he b c m g n ral , both sid s fought h rd for

t he e e at victory . For two hours ﬁght w nt on , wh n ,

a t he e a e and ﬂ ed ea t he e l st, W lsh r nks brok , l ving ﬁ ld h m to t e Parli amentari ans . In point of nu bers t he

’ e had t he a a a e e had W lsh dv nt g , as Horton s forc only

a a and a e t he e had c v lry inf ntry , whil W lsh

The e e e a men. W lsh w r mostly untr ined and

e e e e t e e undisciplin d , whil th ir oppon n s w r veterans

e e a e act e e who w who w r ccustom d to tog th r , and ere w ell used to w ar .

Th e S a e t he a e and th e l ught r during b ttl pursuit, h was great . It is said that t he water in t e Ely w as

r ed th e a w t O coloured by blood th t ﬂo ed in o it . ver s even hundr ed wives were made widows in Gl amorgan

SO a m en w e e a e e that day . m ny er kill d th t th re w re not enough hands to work in t he ﬁ elds during the

e had mo w h e ha following harvest . Wom n to t y and

h e . e e e e a e reap t corn Num rous prison rs w r t k n , both

n a a e e ofﬁcers and me . Fifty st nd rds or colours w r

n e Th e e a d ea e . captur d , n rly four hundr d hors s

e a e e a w as a the command r, M j or G n ral Str dling, mong

a a w as e e prisoners . So import nt victory this consid r d

i ment that a da w as a e b e e as by Parl a , y ppoint d to h ld a public t he nksgi vmg . CHAPTER LIX .

us n Co ncl io .

THE history of t he county in t he y ears follow ing t he Stu art p e riod is ge n erally that of t he country

t he e th e e e ee at l arge . About middl of s v nt nth

e - e a O ta a c ntury , Non Conformity b g n to b in footing

t he and t h e e in county , ﬁrst school in Wal s for Non Conformist mini st ers was also establish ed within its

w Br nll w r h th e a e . as a c bound ri s This school at y y , in

a e h e ea e P rish of Llangyn wyd . It was found d by t l rn d

am e e who h ad ee a t he a h S u l Jon s , b n vic r of p ris

e the w ea t He e e ac e und r Common l h . r fus d to c pt , or c m as w as a e an Of a a e onfor , it c ll d , to Act P rli m nt , and w s w a thro n out of his living .

The county was but little troubl e d during th e

t he t he a th e e plotting for return of St u rts to thron .

e e w as o ne e u a e Th r only littl dist rb nc , following which some gentl em en i n t he n eighbourhood of M erthyr

T dﬁl e e e ea Th e a y w r ﬁn d for tr son . Ch rtist Riots in th e a and t h e e e the e a e E st , R b cca Riots in W st, c us d

e a e e f ew t he e e som disturb nc , but v ry of p opl of

a a w Gl morg n had anything to do ith them .

The chi ef thing to b e noticed during t h e l ast century and a half is t he growth of t he industri es 31 4 THE STORY OF GLAMOR GAN

The ea e of the county . two gr t min rals with which

W e re e e are e a and a conc rn d , of cours , co l iron . The s melting of copp er and th e making of tinplates are

e also of importanc .

Mention is m ade in t he laws of Howell Bda of the m a a e a t h e nuf ctur of iron , so th t industry is a

e Old are e very old o ne . Som workings ven s aid to

e have been used by t he Romans . R cords of t h e reign

een za et a e a a a ew of Qu Eli b h st t th t Sir Willi m M tth , h f t w o a e t e a a e . of Radyr , built furn c s in T f V ll y His so n a e a e th e k h , Sir Toby M tth w, c rri d on wor s , but e

e ﬂ ee t he a ' e w a n was forc d to country, s h s stro gly susp ected of having m ade c annon for t he Spanish

a Arm da .

It is said that furnac es were erected n ear Ab erdar e

the e n e . ea s e and in r ig of H nry VIII H ps of a h s , bars T Old a e ee a . he ea of iron , h v b n found in th t district r l

e t h e a e e e a e the b ginning of iron tr d , how v r , d t s from 1 47 e th e e ee h e u . 7 middl of ight nt c nt ry In , works nd 1 7 e e a t e e r a 60 . e e a w r st r d at M rthy , in Mr Gu st b g n

m h f am a a e wa e a e t e o us a . wh t ft r rds b c . Dowl is Works

a 1 755 O e e e a A Mr . Anthony B con , in , btain d l as s for consid erabl e district round M erthyr .

a e n s t he e c e e To Mr . B con b lo g chi f r dit for op ning ” he as e a ea t he O e up t v t min r l w lth of county . th r

and a e e and t h e a e works ironm st rs follow d , tr d in

Th e u e e e a . s e e iron incr as d r pidly of for ign or s , ,

e e has e Of t h e ea th how v r , brought som works n r e,

and t h e e no w t h e coast , iron industry do s not occupy

31 6 THE STORY OF GLAMORGAN

a ea a w as e 1 4 c rgo of st m co l s nt out from Cardiff in 8 0 . So much coal w as wanted t hat docks had to b e built

S s b e a e . e w for hip to lo d d in Thus , bit by bit , gr up the ea a a e t a e n w gr t co l tr d of Sou h W l s , which o is

ea t h e and t he such a source of w lth to county , to nation generally.

e e e a e e a b m Wh r v r co l is found , sp ci lly if it e aeco

anied e e a e . h as ee p by iron , oth r industri s ris Such b n

h e se a a a at the e e da th e t ca in Gl morg n , so th t pr s nt y ,

o unt v e e the a and t he e e e c , xc pt in f rming mor r mot

a o ne e mount inous districts , is gr at busy industri al

e e e t h e w a c ntr . Goods mad in county ﬁnd th eir y

ll e the w a a e a e a ov r orld , and f vour bl circumst nc s combin ed with th e en ergy and industry of its inhab i

a s a e a a th e c ef in a e t nt h v made Gl morg n hi county W l s ,

o ne t he a t he h e and of most import nt in Britis Isl s .

T D T R A D E T E E T C A D IF' F E . P C O . L W Q R . R &

U NIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA L IBRARY

This b o o k is DU E o n the l ast date stamped b el o w.

Fo rm L 9 - 5 0 m ( 5 9 9 0 ) 444

THE LIBRA RY