The Barrow+Green-and-Silver 2017 m/y «Henrik Ibsen» on Irish Rivers and Canals: Part 4 – The + the Shannon

Exact time for departure from towards the Royal depends on opening hours for Newcomen Bridge. Newly indicated departure to Spencer Dock is said to be XX. May the lifting of the railway bridge the XX.of May, see detailed plan. Anyway, for "Day XX": Breakfast in GC Dock, crew: local/unclear. After the go-ahead from WI (Waterways ) we leave GC Dock via sea locks, cross the and enter the Spencer Dock by sea locks, and under North Wall lifting bridges

Spencer Dock (irish: Duga Spencer). The Dock area was originally part of the end of the Royal Canal, which remains connected to the River Liffey here. Spencer Dock includes part of North Wall between Guild Street, Upper Sheriff Street, New Wapping Street, North Wall Quay and Docklands railway station.

In agreement with WI we pass by one North Wall Quay lifting bridge, Mayor Street Upper bridge, Sheriff Street Bridge (critical!), several high bridges, before we get to Newcomen railway bridge, popularly called “Effin” Bridge. This is a railway bridge which is very low and normally only open to boats once a month, so this must be booked early. We have ordered the XX.mai. We pass Croke Park Stadium which seats 80,000 spectators and the grim walls of Mountjoy Prison. The canal passes Glasnevin Cemetery at gate 6. - Glasnevin Cemetery is a hidden gem and well worth a visit. It serves today as Ireland's national-cemetery. The grave of Michael Collins is next to the visitor center. The round tower in the center stands over the grave of Daniel O'Connell.

The cemetery is the largest faith-neutral cemetery in Ireland with an estimated 1.5 million burials. Prior to the establishment of Glasnevin cemetery Irish Catholics had no cemeteries of their own where they could bury their dead, and British criminal law in the eighteenth century had placed severe restrictions on public performance of Catholic rituals. It had therefore become common practice for Catholics to conduct a limited version of their own funeral in Protestant cemeteries or graveyards. This situation continued until an incident at a funeral held in St. Kevin's church in 1823 provoked public outcry when a Protestant church official rebuked a Catholic priest to perform a limited version of a funeral Mass. This prompted Daniel O'Connell, champion of Catholic rights, to launch a campaign and prepare a legal opinion which showed that there actually was no law prohibiting praying for a dead Catholic in a cemetery.

O'Connell pushed for the opening of a graveyard where both Irish Catholics and Protestants could give their dead a dignified burial. Glasnevin cemetery was inaugurated and opened to the public for the first time on 21 February 1832.

The Catholic Mass celebrated by members of the parish clergy every Sunday at 9:45 The annual blessing of the graves takes place every summer as it's done since the foundation of the cemetery in 1832. The cemetery consists of two parts, both in Glasnevin, Dublin, in two parts. The majority, with their special high walls and watchtowers, located on one side of the road from Finglas to the center, while the second part, "Paul," is across the road and into a green space, between two railway lines. Graves in Glasnevin

side 1 The Barrow+Green-and-Silver 2017 cemetery contains historically famous monuments and graves of many of Ireland's most prominent national people. These include the graves of Daniel O'Connell, Charles Stewart Parnell, Michael Collins, Éamon de Valera, Arthur Griffith, Kevin Barry, Roger Casement, Constance Markiewicz, Pádraig Ó Domhnaill, Seán MacBride, Jeremiah O'Donovan Rossa, Frank Duff, Brendan Behan , Christy Brown and Luke Kelly from the Dubliners. In 1993 it was found a mass grave at a Magdalene laundry, an institution apparently used to house "fallen women". The grave was discovered after the monastery that owned and used the laundry area sold to a property developer. The sisters from the monastery received the remains cremated and buried in a mass grave at Glasnevin Cemetery and shared costs for reburial with the developer who had purchased the land.

The cemetery shows a changing style of death monuments in Ireland over the last 200 years: from the strict, simple, lofty rocks from the period up to the 1860s, to the elaborate Celtic cross from the nationalist revival from the 1860s to the 1960s and further to the usual Italian marble from the late 20th century. The high wall with watchtowers around the main part of the cemetery was built to deter body snatchers who were active in Dublin in the 18th and early 19th century. The keepers also had a collection of blood dogs that roamed the cemetery at night. Locks 2 to 9 passes in hopefully quick succession. At Ashtown Station (gate 10) is the public pier, where we are present from xxx to xxx and may wait for crew. Here are several pubs and right across the street is also a shopping center if one were missing something.

The shopping center, restaurants and new apartment buildings to the right channel of the marina in the middle and Ashtown station left in the picture. Halfway House (pub) is about 300 m away on the railway side, see picture on the next page. Time for improvisation of walks in the surrounding area while waiting for the complete crew. There are walks along the canal to Dublin city center for the very fit (about 3 hours) but it is recommended to take the train from Ashtown Station close by to Connolly train station.

See "Barrow + Green and Silver Ireland Part 3 Dublin" for suggestions for numerous activities in Dublin.

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The Halfway House is a nice pub close by with long traditions

Next we pass lock 11 and soon after we reach the biggest integrated junction in Ireland with railways, motorways, a roundabout and our canal all crossing each other at Blanchardstown in a fantastic way.

Immediately after we reach the Twelfth Lock, which is not only a double lock, but also a well known marina and restaurant. A perfect place to enjoy a cold beer under the parasol on a warm summer’s day! If it is full, we are allowed to tie up on the canal bank, or proceed 300 yards to Castleknock.

These are alternative long-term mooring places, safer and better than Ashtown.

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After this, the channel quickly passes into a more rural setting. "The Deep Sinking" is a deep cut that was made to avoid having to lock up and down, when one did not follow the landscape contours.

The canal passes Coolmine station, but it is completely inaccessible from the canal due to the difference in height (16 meters!) Precipitous terrain and lack of stairs. Clonsilla Bridge and Clonsilla station are passed before we are back in normal height.

The canal passes a number of bridges in Dublin's fringe, without special attractions.

Confey: Confey: RCAG (Royal Canal Amenity Group) has its base here. The initial goal for Royal Canal Amenity Group (RCAG) was to promote and participate in the restoration and development of the Royal Canal. "After the canal was opened to navigation in 2010, we changed our focus from the restoration of the waterway to promote tourism potential in Royal. We also continue our campaign to get the remaining portions of the canal, among others the Longford branch, fully restored. "

The Henrik Ibsen company is a member of RCAG.

Leixlip Spa is located near the Royal Canal at Louisa Bridge. It was discovered in 1793 by a group of workers who dug the canal. William Conolly who bought Leixlip Castle in 1732 planned to develop the spa for a classic thermal spa, but to no avail. The water in the spa bubbles up from the ground at a constant temperature of 23.9 degrees Celsius and flows into the Rye River below. The spa was formerly widely used, but since the 1960s it has decayed.

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We are arriving at lock 13, which marks the end of the 12 mm long level from Blanchardstown. Deey Bridge and the lock is haunted, and old channel people never stops longer than necessary here. It has not been possible to find additional documentation on spøkeriet here, so it is perhaps not so dangerous after all.

Just before Pike Bridge we arrive at the pier to Carton House, the former seat of the Duke of Leinster. This is now a modern hotel where one until recently could stay for about 1000, - kr / night per double room.

The hotel offers a variety of amenities and a trek around the property is highly recommended. Queen Victoria stayed here whenever she was in Ireland. Certainly an option if we have bad weather on the trip, even though it is a long walk from the pier to the hotel. The jetty is very close to the main road to Dublin, so it probably is not advisable to leave the boat here unattended. Hotel Accommodation (2015): kr 1728, - including breakfast per double room, or kr 1600, - per person including spa.

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We come to Maynooth, containing several attractions, including the great university and the old Maynooth Castle:

The area is covered by the modern Kildare and was given by Strongbow to Maurice Fitzgerald in 1176. The castle was built in the crossing of two rivers in the late 1200s, and became home to Fitzgerald- family from then on. The castle was extended by Sir John Fitzgerald in the 15th century.

For a period in the 16th century Maynooth was the capital of Ireland and all official matters were decided and considered from this Kildare stronghold. The Fitzgeralds were earls of Kildare and vicelords of Ireland.

Fitzgeralds settlement on the castle ended in 1534 with the rebellion of Silken Thomas, son of the ninth Earl of Kildare. An English force led by William Skeffington bombarded the castle massively in March. The castle fell after a ten-day siege. This was as a direct result of the treachery of Silken Thomas by his foster brother Christopher Parese. The entire garrison was executed in front of the castle gates. Silken Thomas was taken shortly afterwards and sent to the Tower of London with his five uncles. They were executed for treason at Tyburn February 3, 1537.

The castle was restored in 1630-1635 by Richard Boyle, 1st Earl of Cork, after his daughter had married George Fitzgerald, but much of the building was destroyed in the 1640s during the eleven years’ war. Only the guardhouse, where the wings of Boyle and Fitzgeralds can still be seen, and The Suntower survived. The Fitzgeralds left Maynooth for good and firstly made Kilkea Castle then Carton House their family seat.

Restoration work on the castle was started in February 2000. It is now open to the public from June to October, 10:00 -. 5.45pm. Today is partly damaged building remains a tourist attraction, with limited access possible.

Maynooth is otherwise a pleasant and well-planned city from the 18th century with a population of 8,500.

If you want to have a look Maynooth College, founded as a Catholic seminary little over 200 years ago, this is an excellent day trip for groups and families. The college in classic style is now a bustling university and the ruined castle at the gates of the college was formerly the home of the Fitzgerald family.

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Maynooth has excellent rail and bus links. The marina is also good. We’ll moor as recommended east of Mullen Bridge due vandal danger . Pub visit.

We pass Lyre River and arrive at 14th lock with Jackson's Bridge which has a separate tunnel-passage for the towpath. Bailey Bridge and Chambers Bridge are crossed thereafter. Lock 15 (The Maws) is a recommended mooring place. We reach Kilcock with its 5533 inhabitants. Here's railwaystation, petrol station near the port, bus services and shops. Shaws Bridge and lock 16 is almost in the middle of town

We leave Kilcock after lunch, passing a beautiful canal stretch before we reach Allen Bridge ( "Spin Bridge" locally), McLoughlins Bridge and Ferns lock (17). This is the start of a 32 km long level until Thomastown. This stretch through moorland (Cappagh Bog) was very difficult to stabilize. Ferns lock

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We pass Cloncurry bridge and the road to Trim. At the bridge there is the ruins of a church and the remains of an old churchyard. .

Trim Castle is located by the river Boyne a little further north. Trim is the largest Norman castle in Ireland. The film "Braveheart" was filmed here. It's too far (15 km) from the canal to visit Trim Castle this time.

We continue from Cloncurry Bridge to Enfield. Along the entrance to the town we pass a popular fishing area. On the west side of town we find a new recreational park with a small marina and boat ramp. Enfield has rail and bus connections, several pubs along the main street, there is The Sligh Mór, The Midland Bar, and The Bridge House.

Canal and railway station

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We also find the renowned Johnstown Hotel & Spa in Enfield. Recommended by several celebrities.

After Enfield there is scarcely an hour to the Blackwater Aquaduct and Kilmore Bridge.

Kilmore Bridge

We are getting near Moyvalley and the bridges there.

In Moyvalley there is one pub (the second one is closed) and restaurant. A nice old hotel built in 1807 was where the new highway bridge from 1977 now stands. We moored at the Furey Pub (recommended).

We pass Ribbontail pedestrian bridge before we get to to Longwood Harbour, popularly called Boyne Dock. From here it is 1.5 km along the road to the shops and pubs in Longwood.

The O'Rourke family of Longwood was well known for many reasons throughout the history of Longwood, and a bridge is named after them near Donore Castle. Dinnies O'Rourke became famous for the shooting of a Landowner's agent during an attack on the landlords in Castlerickard the mid-1800s. These were hard times of famine and O'Rourke helped to supply many families in the area by taking from the rich and give to the poor.

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Longwood Harbour right before Boyne aquaduct / Longford Road aquaduct and Railway Bridge

Then Boyne Harbour.

After Longwood there is a couple of kilometres to Blackshade Bridge, and after still a couple of kilometres we reach Killyon Bridge an the Hill of Down. Recommended for mooring, but nowhere to throw your rubbish.

Here is a pub and a shop, but not much more. From here, the canal passes into more open landscapes, with some hedges along the banks. It is exposed to wing all the way to the forest Hyde Park near d'Arcy-bridge, 4 km from Kinnegad.

At Thomastown the canal widens to form the beautiful Thomastown Harbour, recommended mooring with pub and a boat ramp. Possible place to stay the night (recommended).

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We pass Thomastown Bridge and lock 18. Here Waterways Ireland has a base for maintenance.

Now the canal climbs through the locks 19 - 25 which all are close to each other. After lock 21 we arrive at Riverstown and Riverstown Bridge (shop, diesel and pub) where we might stay the night. There is walking ditance to Killucan from lock 18 to 24.

After the staircase of locks, ending in lock 25, we reach the summit level that will take us 24 km westwards.

Passing Footy’s bridge and soon thereafter the N4 Bridge and Mc Nead’s Bridge. Here we are in Caralstown and the well known Mary Lynch Pub. Earlier recommended for mooring. Still nice, but somewhat decayed and deserted. Lunch and food if we are lucky.

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After Mary Lynch we find the Raleigh farm Bridge, a manually operated bridge giving access to a farm. This bridge is lowered when there are no boats, and must be manually lowered for us to pass.

It is approx 2m airdraft available if bridge is not hoisted.

Road, rail and canal continue together to Downs Bridge, where they part. The canal runs through a narrow cut on both sides of Baltrasna Bridge. Immediately after the Board Town Bridge comes a water supply from the south through double stone culverts, the so-called "Pig snout". Here it may be shallow.

We pass Moran's Bridge (diesel!) And arriving Harbour where we may moor at Piper's Boreen and explore the city. Last time we actually moored at the official harbour in the city center, and it worked fine. Gas can be purchased at the nearby petrol station.

Mullingar. The Harbour with the Service-Blockmed Service-block'en is close to the city center, see picture.

Farmer's Market is arranged every Sunday. Mullingar has approx. 20 000 inhabitants.

Belvedere House and Gardens Christ-The-King-katedralen i Mullingar

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The town had a tradition of cattle-trade until 2003, when the cattle market was closed in favor of a mixed commercial and residential scheme called Market Point. Mullingar is famous for the nearby lakes, Lough Owel, Lough Ennell and Lough Derravaragh which attracts many anglers. Lough Derravaragh is best known for its association with the Irish legend of the Children of Lir. The city Mullingar is linked to Lough Ennell via Lacy Canal and the River Brosna. Belvedere plant located at Lough Ennell about 4 km south of the city.

One of Mullingar major exports are elements of tin produced by the firm Mullingar Pewter located near the town. Genesis Fine Art are also produced locally and sold worldwide - one of their sculptures of "Pilgrims" dominates husutstillingen at Austin Friars Monastery which was once the Augustinian monastery.

Left-hand-mill, a symbol The Austin Friars Harbour from the west. from the famine is the root for the name of Mullingar.

Mullingar is a traffic hub for train and bus, and is the administrative center of West Meade County since Henrik 8. proclamation in 1543. Overnight in Mullingar Harbour, possible additional nights, possible market visits. Then under four bridges out of town, Green Bridge and Grange Bridge 1km to the west.

Kilpatrick Bridge and Belmont Bridge follow. At Ballinea Bridges there is a boat ramp.

By Ballineen Bridge (pier and shop, 500m to the south) we part with the railway which turns south towards . From Ballineen we enter in a more deserted stretch, we pass Shandonagh Bridge before reaching Coolnahay Harbour and Dolan Bridge.

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Coolnahay lock 26 and Dolan Bridge. Highly recommended for a lunch-break and mooring. Nice tiny café.

Walsh Bridge and lock 29 seen from Kildallan Bridge

Locks 30, 31, 32, 33 and 34 follow in a row, The last one after Balroe Bridge

We are getting near Ballinacarrigy with bridge and harbour. This is one of the nicest places on the canal, a sanctuary for ducks, shops, diesel, pub and a Service Block (Toilet and showers). The village has nearly 300 inhabitants.

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Locks 36, 37 and 38 are being passed. Likewise Kiddys Bridge and Kellys Bridge. The River Blackwater runs in a tunnel under us. We are passing Quinns Bridge and the aquaduct over the river Inny. Here is a small airstrip.

We arrive in Abbeyshrule Harbour (recommended mooring) with a nice restaurant and an old Abbey, at least some remains of an abbey.

A monastery was founded in Abbeyshrule in the year 1200 under the patronage of O'Farrel from Annaly. It was inhabited by Christian monks from Mellifont. In 1228 the association changed to Bective Abbey. All that remains today is the broken rectangular abbey, with traces of a monastic garden in the south, the foundation of a parsonage and signs of a southern entrance. Ruins of an ivy-clad 16th century residence with tower stands in the southeast corner of the plant. In the 15th / 16th century, the arc in the central partition backed up and three small vaulted chambers were added. A double Bellcote was also built over the arch.

By the road to the east entrance is a bad copy of an eighth century High Cross which has been removed to the sacristy to the Catholic Church in Abbeyshrule. The cross was originally placed in the cemetery next to the monastery. It is an armless sandstone cross with the upper cross member pointing outwards. With a height of only 0.97 meters and 0.27 meters wide, it has been described by Harbison as a thistle-shaped cross section. The west-facing part of the shaft, the right picture, is decorated with interlace. The head carries an unusual circular band design extending on to the upper limb. North and south sides bear a Greek design. The cross has been compared with the small cross on Layd in County Antrim and the small cross at Laughanstown in Dublin. It is well worth a wander around the monastery grounds as there are a number of interesting cross slabs in the cemetery.

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After Abbeyshrule we pass lock 39 which is the last before we start on a 11km long level. The canal is here built to the contours of the Inny Valley to avoid cuts and embankments. The result is many turns. From Toome Bridge one can reach Barry, where there are shops. It becomes dense with hedges and numerous bridges until Chaigneau Bridge, so the view is limited. Chaigneau Bridge is also called Brannigan Bridge, here we find Ballybrannigan Harbour. Here was a large store and an antique canal- passengerboat recently restored by RCAG. From here the former horse-drawn cabs went to Athlone.

The city of Ballymahon is close by.

Ballymahon has a limited bus connection east- and westwards. In the 1840-es over 40 000 passengers and 100 000 tons of goods passed through here every year.

At Archies bridge there is a quay and two closed shops.

Open shop and diesel 400m to the west of Longford Bridge.

The canal laps Mulwornia Hill and turn north. Here is the canal very close to Lough Ree, just 3 km away. There were protests from the company that remade the plan that Royal Canal would end in Lough Ree. After the 40th lock the canal goes in a "steep" slope and is said to have great views of Lough Ree in the west. We pass Pake Bridges (new and old) and are going to Foigha Bridge and Harbour. Here are diesel, shop and pub. It is 1.5 km to walk or cycle to Ledwithstown House for the special interested. This midsize Ledwithstown House has been called a miniature gem" by historian Robert O'Byrne. It is rife with intricate plasterwork, detailed trelistverk and fine stone carvings, architectural photographer Dr. Maurice Craig said about Ledwithstown, "there may be few houses of its size in Ireland more thoroughly designed, and with internal decoration as well integrated." The house was built for Ledwith family in 1746 to designs by famous Irish architect Richard Castle. It was maintained by Ledwith descendants until 1911 when it was sold to Laurence Feeney and it was eventually inhabited by a variety of tenants. The magnificent property was abandoned in the 1970s and suffered from a falling roof and internal decay and moisture which severely damaged much of the rugged decoration that had been so admired. Despite the house's dilapidated condition was Laurence Feeney grandchildren in 1980 determined to restore the house to its original splendor and began a major restore program, which is now completed.

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We pass the windswept Cloonbreany Bog and come to Island Bridge and Mosstown Harbour. Here are walking distance to the small town of Keenagh. Corlea Bog Visitors Center located 1500m west of Island Bridge / Mosstown Harbour and is worth a visit. One has found 5500 years old drawtracks that suggest utilization of the bog in prehistoric times

Visitors to Keenagh can also see the remains of Mosstown House, the Kingston-family’s old residence. The house was demolished in 1962. It was originally a Norman castle, hooked up with another castle on Ballyknocken. It was an underground passage that connected the two castles. The underground passage was used as a means of protection in dangerous times. People brought their children and animals to the passage in times of attack to seek safety. Indeed, Mosstown was attacked three times. In 1641 was Mosstown was attacked by Cromwell, who succeeded in invading the place and gave it to one of his generals, Sir Thomas Newcomen.

The second attack occurred in January 1690, at this stage the house was still in the hands of Thomas Newcomen. But now there was a Lady Newcomen who commanded the defense. Lady Newcomen, aided by about 200 of their tenants, fortified house against the Irish rebels before they brought artillery against them. Without other choice Sarah Newcomen was forced to surrender the house, weapons and ammunition. Mosstown suffered their last siege in 1798. At this time Alexander Crow Ford Kingston lived in the house. Determined that Kingston was to defend his home against the rebels, he surrendered himself shortly after the attack was launched. Fortunately, despite the fact that this was the third siege of the house, there was little damage to the house itself. The only major attraction of Mosstown house at the moment is The Pigeon House. It is one of only six remaining in Ireland today. This two-storey building is octagonal and about 10 feet above the ground. It is believed to be built in the 18th century. The reason that the building was erected was strictly practical and part of the business to stay alive. They housed and bred pigeons, bird meat and eggs, which was a necessary care of the property. Letters Pigeons are also believed to be used.

Further to the Crossover Bridge canal lined with dense hedges. As we approach the Longford-the branching off (not passable) the landscape becomes more open.

By Killashee there shop and pub. Instead reached a short distance from 43 or 44. sluice.

Furthermore, there are numerous locks and bridges of different nature in the last 6 kilometers down to Richmond Harbour. Begnagh Bridge is an automatic vertical-lift bridge that closes the roadway and opens the canal as we approach. (It does not really work, WI has to assist) Then comes a non-automatic railway which usually remains open. The next railway bridge is a high-level machine crossing. After 45th lock there is Richmond Harbour, canal terminus with water, electricity and service-block. It is mostly used by resident campers in their caravans. Nice pubs, sometimes music.

There is also a pub in Cloondara, which is close by, otherwise no trains and very few buses. We may stay overnight in Richmond Harbour (recommended). Longford Branch Royal Canal

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We leave the Royal Canal by lock 46, turn starboard and follow the River Camlin to the Shannon.

Camlin River

Heading north on the Shannon we reach Rooskey where there is a lock, plus diesel on the quay, water and shops. Further up river is Dromod, which is very nice if it is not overcrowded. Carnadoe on the other side of Lough Bofin is an alternative. Even further north is Drumsna, another small gem with all facilities.

Dromod seen from Lough Bofin

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Dromod has a nice narrow-gauge museum railway

Harkins Bistro in Dromod Harbour.

After Albert Lock on the Shannon we sail through the Albert canal before we get to Jamestown, another tiny village. Here is «The Cottage», one of best restaurants. Booking of table is mandatory. While we wait, we can grab a beer in the neighbouring pub and admire the donkey in the garden.

The Cottage, Jamestown

Another couple of hours up river and we are at Carrick-On-Shannon and Inver Geal

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Inver Geal Marina

Main Street, Carrick Andersen’s Thatch Pub, one of our Carrick favourites

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