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Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

OUR READERS Simon Richmond Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help- Domo arigato gozaimasu to Kylie Clark and ful hints, useful advice and interesting colleagues at JNTO ; Tabata Naoko and anecdotes: colleagues at TCVB; Osawa Kei at Intermedia­ Badong Abesamis, Parham Fazelzadeh, Rob- teque; friends Toshiko, Kenichi, Giles ert Glass, Shinobu Honjo, Steve Hoy, Laura and William; Masami Takahashi in Hakone; Huddleston, Adam Keyworth, Neels de Leeuw, Brent Potter for expert advice on Fuji and for HangYu Li, Cristina Miret, Antonio Mogort, Rob getting me safely up to the summit and back; Nelson, Torben Retboll, Gregory Schmauch, Tokyo coauthor Rebecca, and Laura and Diana Roch Stefaniak, Veronica Tam, Jennifer Ward, for keeping it all running smoothly at Lonely Mathias Wendt Planet headquarters.

AUTHOR THANKS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Tokyo Subway Route Map, Bureau of Trans- Rebecca Milner portation, Tokyo Metropolitan Government, A big thanks to my mom for her company, and Tokyo Metro Co Ltd © 2014.6. to my husband for his tireless patience. To Emi and Steph for their willingness to visit ‘just one Illustrations pp156–7 by Michael Weldon. more bar’ and to Jon and Kanna for their cook- ing. Kyary, Mike, Allan and Ivan: thank you for Cover photograph: Restaurant in Omoide- your ‘local knowledge’. Will, Tabata-san, Sayuri, Yokochō, ; Jon Arnold/AWL. Miyawaki-san, Tristan, Toshiko and Kenichi: I’m grateful for your help and recommendations.­ And finally to Simon and Laura: thank you for all of your help, guidance and patience. 264

THIS BOOK Destination Editor Assisting Cartographers Laura Crawford Julie Dodkins, Anthony This 10th edition of Tokyo was Product Editors Phelan, Julie Sheridan researched and written by Carolyn Boicos, Alison Cover Researcher Rebecca Milner and Simon Ridgway Naomi Parker Richmond.The 9th edition Senior Cartographer Thanks to Naoko Aka- BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND was written by Timothy Diana Von Holdt matsu, Kate James, Claire N Hornyak and Rebecca Book Designer Naylor, Karyn Noble, Martine Milner, and the 8th edition by Jessica Rose Power, Ellie Simpson, Luna Andrew Bender and Timothy Assisting Editors Katie Soo, Lauren Wellicome N Hornyak. This guidebook Connolly, Kellie Langdon, was produced by the following: Charlotte Orr, Sally Schafer ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 265

See also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P269 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P270 3 ENTERTAINMENT P270 7 SHOPPING P271 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P271 Index 4 SLEEPING P271

21_21 Design Sight 79 Aoyama Rei-en 80 books crafts 23, 47, 49, 105 3331 Arts Chiyoda 149 Aoyama, see & arts 229 Crafts Gallery 58 Aoyama history 216 credit cards 251 aquariums 80, 178 literature 210, 232-4 cruises 178, 246 A Arashio Stable 175 accommodation 19, 195-208, 221-2 culture 210-11 256, see also individual architecture 118, 234-6 onsen 238 culture, pop 15, 221-6 neighbourhoods, area codes 252 pop culture 225 currency 250 Sleeping subindex arts 23, 45, 227-34 breweries 42, 122, 179 cycling 30, 57, 162, 246-7 activities 24-7, see Asakura Chōso Museum 161 Bridgestone Museum of also individual & 53, Art 59 neighbourhoods, Sports 164-75, 164, 291, 292 Buddhist temples 22, D d47 Museum 104 & Activities subindex accommodation 207-8 31, 234 Daibonsho 80 addresses 247 drinking & nightlife 165, bunraku 44 Advertising Museum 173-4 bus tours 247 Daibutsu (Kamakura) 190 Tokyo 69 entertainment 174 bus travel 243, 246 Daikanyama 96-7, 98-9 air travel 17, 242-3 food 165, 171-3 bushidō 214 Daimyo Clock Museum 161 Akagi-jinja 145 highlights 9, 12, 164, 166-7 business hours 33, 47, 251 dance 44, 229 Akasaka 81, 84, 85-6 shopping 165, 174-5 butō 44, 229 dangers, see safety AKB48 222 sights 166-71 B’z 222 dengue fever 250 & around 53, 147- sports & activities 175 Design Festa 116 52, 225, 147, 290, 14 transport 165 Dior Building 118 accommodation 205-6 C walks 169, 169 disabilities, travellers with drinking & nightlife cafes 41, 43 254 Asakusa-jinja 167, 21 148, 151 capsule hotels 195, 196 Diver City Tokyo Plaza 179 ATMs 250 entertainment 151 car travel 247 Dōgenzaka 104 Aum Shinrikyō cult 219-20 food 148, 150-1 Cat Street 116 drinking & nightlife 30, 41-3, highlights 15, 147 Awashima-dō 167 cell phones 18, 252 258, see also individual shopping 148, 151-2 Ayumi, Hamasaki 222 cherry blossoms 15, 24-5, neighbourhoods, sights 149-50 -Jūban 84-5, 87 30, 57, 14, 99 Drinking & Nightlife subindex sports & activities 152 Azuma-bashi 169 Chidori-ga-fuchi moat 57 driving 247 transport 148 children, travel with 28 duty-free shopping 47 Akihabara Electric Town 149 B Chingo-dō 168 Akihabara Radio Center 149 bargaining 251 Chinzan-sō 141 Amazake Yokochō 62 bars 41, 43 cinema 210, 222-3, 232, 233 E ambulance 248 baseball 44, 124, 140, 146 cinemas 45 earthquakes 141, 217, 219-20 Ameya-yokochō 158 Baseball Hall of Fame & climate 19, 24, 25, 26, 27 Ebisu, Meguro & around 53, Amuse Museum 168 Museum 140 clubs 41, 43 90-100, 90, 284-5 amusement parks 140, Bashō, Matsuo 233 coffee 42 accommodation 201-2 168, 180 bathhouses, see onsen, sentō collectors’ items 47 drinking & nightlife 91, 24, 28, 49, 149, 152, bathrooms 253 comics, see manga 97, 99 222-3 beer 17, 42, 43, 92, 179 Container, The 99 entertainment 99-100 antique fairs 48 Beer Museum Yebisu 92 costs 18, 33, 42, 196, 245, food 91, 93, 96-7 Benten-dō 158 248, 252 highlights 90 bicycle travel 30, 57, 162, courses shopping 91, 100 Sights 000 246-7 cooking 39 sights 92-3 Map Pages 000 black markets 218 ikebana 81, 84, 124 transport 91 Photo Pages 000 boat travel 178, 246 origami 149 economy 210, 219-20 266 Edokoro 159 Gallery Koyanagi 69 sights 115-17 food 33 -Tokyo Museum 170, 22 Gallery Kura 150 sports & activities 124 literature 232 Edo-Tokyo Open Air gardens 23, 31 transport 114 planning 18 Architecture Museum gay travellers 43, 248 walks 118, 118 pop culture 225 129 Geisha Shinmichi 144 Harmonica-yokochō 129 sentō 240 electricity 248 General Nogi’s Residence 80 Haruki, Murakami 234 shopping 47 INDEX INDEX electronics shops 48 128-9, 226 Hase-dera (Kamakura) 190 interpreters 248 emergencies 248, 258 Graphic Gallery 69 Hatajuku 187 Isao, Takahata 222-3 Engaku-ji (Kamakura) 190 Ginza & 53, 65-76, Hatajuku Yosegi Kaikan itineraries 20-1, 35

E Enju-ji 160 65, 278-9, 72-3 (Hatajuku) 187 izakaya 37-8, 40, 41 - K Ennō-ji (Kamakura) 191-2 accommodation 199-200 Hatakeyama Collection 93 entertainment 44-5, drinking & nightlife 66, hatsu-mōde 24 see also individual 71, 75 Hattori Hanzō 213 J Folk Crafts Museum neighbourhoods, entertainment 75-6 Entertainment subindex Hayao, Miyazaki 222 105 food 66, 70-1 etiquette 33, 42, 239-40 health 248-9, 250 Japan Nursing Association highlights 7, 15, 65, 67-8 events 24-7, 226, 227 -kōen 69 building 118 shopping 66, 76 Hidari Zingaro 128 Japanese language 255-62 sights 67-70 Hie-jinja 81 Japanese Sword Museum F transport 66 hiking 127 fashion 46-7, 49, 223, 225 walks 74, 74 Kamakura 192 jazz 45 Ferris Wheel 178 Golden Gai 133, 130 Mitsutōge-yama 194 JCII Camera Museum 141 festivals 24-7, 226, 227 100 Mt Fuji 193 J-pop 222 films 210, 222-3, 232, 233 Great Kantō Earthquake Oku-Tama 194 Jusaburō-kan 62 fire services 248 217 Takao-san 194 food 10, 17, 30, 32-40, 10, Gundam 179, 225, 226, 224 Hinokichō-kōen 79 K 32, 33, 34, 36, 38, Gundam Front Tokyo 179 history 23, 212-20 39, see also individual kabuki 15, 44, 227-8 holidays 251 neighbourhoods, Eating Kabukichō 7, 127-8, 6-7 subindex H hostess bars 42 Kabukichō Ichibangai 134 hot springs, see onsen cooking classes 39 Hachikō Statue 104, 107 Kabuki-za 15, 70, 15 Hotel New Ōtani 81 costs 33 haiku 233 Kachi Kachi Yama Ropeway itineraries 35 Hakone 186-9, 188 Hōzō-mon 166-7 (Mt Fuji) 194 language 256-8, 261-2 Hakone Museum of Art Hyogo-yokochō 144 144-5, 142 opening hours 33 (Hakone) 186 Kamakura 189-92, 191 vegetarian & vegan Hakone Open-Air Museum I Kaminari-mon 166 (Hakone) 186 travellers 39, 40 140-1 Kanda 149-50 Hakone Sekisho (Hakone) websites 33 Idemitsu Museum of Kanda Myōjin (Kanda 186-7 fortune telling 167 Arts 59 Shrine) 149 Hakone-jinja (Hakone) 187 free attractions 31 ikebana 81, 84, 124, 230 Kanman-ga-Fuchi Abyss Fuji, see Mt Fuji Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien 141, 226 (Nikkō) 185 69, 21, 73 Fuji Sengen-jinja Ikebukuro Earthquake Kappabashi-dōri 172 (Fuji-Yoshida) 193 Hamasaki Ayumi 222 Hall 141 karaoke 41, 43 Fuji TV 179 hanami 15, 24-5, 30, 57, 14 Imperial Palace 56-7, 56, Kawabata Yasunari 233 Fujifilm Square 80 Hanayashiki 168 60-1 Kenchō-ji (Kamakura) Fujishiro-tōge 139 Hanazono-jinja 128 Imperial Palace East 190-1 Fukagawa 170-1, 172-3 Hanzō, Hattori 213 Garden 57 Kenzaburo, Ōe 233 Fukagawa Edo Museum 171 Hanzōmon 140-1 Indiana, Robert 127 Kichijōji 128-9, 133 Fukagawa Fudō-dō 171 Happō-en 93 Inokashira-kōen 129 kimonos 47, 49 Futarasan-jinja (Nikkō) Hara Museum of Institute for Nature Study Kita-Kore Building 128 Contemporary Art 93 183-4 92, 95 Kitanomaru-kōen 57, 60 Harajuku & Aoyama 53, insurance 248 Kite Museum 59-62 113-24, 226, 113, Intermediateque 58 G Kiyōmizu Kannon-dō 158 288, 9 internet access 17, 249 Gaienmae 117, 119 Kiyosumi 170-1, 172-3 accommodation 203 internet resources galleries 23, 31 Kiyosumi-teien 170-1 drinking & nightlife 114, accommodation 196 119, 122 Kōbe earthquake 219-20 arts 228 entertainment 122-3 Kōenji 128 drinking & nightlife 42 Sights 000 food 114, 117, 119 Kōenji Awa Odori 26 entertainment 45 Map Pages 000 highlights 9, 15, 113, 115 Kōrakuen 140, fashion 223 , Photo Pages 000 shopping 114, 123-4 5 142-3 267 Kōrakuen & northwest 141 National Science Museum Oshiage 168, 170, 172 Tokyo 53, 137-46, 137, melon auction 68 158 culture 15, 47, 289 Midtown Garden 79 National Shōwa Memorial 128, 149 accommodation 204-5 Minami-guchi Shōtengai 109 Museum 140 140 drinking & nightlife Miraikan 178 Natsume, Sōseki 233 Ōwakudani (Hakone) 186 138, 145 Mishima Yukio 233-4 New Ōtani Art Museum 81 Oz Zingaro 128

entertainment 146 INDEX Mitaka 128-9, 133 newspapers 252 food 138, 141, 145 Mitake-san 194 Nezu Museum 116-17 highlights 137, 139 P Mitsubishi Ichigōkan nightlife, see drinking & nightlife painting 230-1 shopping 138, 146 Museum 59 K

parks 23, 31 -

sights 139-41 Nihombashi () 59 R Mitsui Memorial Museum 59 Pasona 59 sports & activities 146 Nihombashi area, see Mitsutōge-yama 194 performing arts 227-30 transport 138 & Miyazaki Hayao 222 Nihombashi photo booths 112 walks 144-5, 144 Mizuma Art Gallery 140-1 nihonga 230 photography 231 Kundanshita 140-1 mobile phones 18, 252 Nikkō 182-5, 184 Pixiv Zingaro 128 Kyary Pamyu Pamyu 222 Moegi-no-Yu 238-40 Nikkō Tamozawa Imperial planning Kyū Iwasaki-teien 159 Mohri Garden 79 Villa Memorial Park budgeting 18, 31, 33, 196, MOMAT 58 (Nikkō) 185 245, 248 L money 18, 33, 42, 196, 245, Nikolai Cathedral 149 calendar of events 24-7 language 255-62 248, 250-1 Ningyōchō 62 children, travel with 28 legal matters 249 monorail travel 243 ninja 213 internet resources 18 lesbian travellers 43, 248 Mori Art Museum 79 Nishi-Azabu 84, 87 itineraries 20-1, 35 Liechtenstein, Roy 127 mosquitoes 250 Nishi-Shinjuku 127, 129, 132 local life 29-30 literature 210, 232-4, see MOT 170 Niten-mon 167 repeat visitors 17 also books motorcycle travel 247 nō 44, 228 Tokyo basics 18-19 local life 29-30 Mr Children 222 Nogi-jinja 80 Tokyo’s neighbourhoods Louis Vuitton Building 118 Mt Fuji 12, 192-4, 12 Nokogiri-yama 194 52-3 love hotels 198 Murakami Haruki 234 noodles 36, 40 travel seasons 19, 24, 25, Murakami Ryū 234 northwest Tokyo, see 26, 27 Murakami Takashi 128 Kōrakuen & northwest police 248 M Musée Tomo 81 Tokyo politics 220 magazines 252 Museum of Contemporary NTT Intercommunication pop culture 15, 221-6 Maman 79 Art, Tokyo (MOT) 170 Centre 127 pop music 222 manga 49, 221-2, 224 Museum of Imperial population 210-11 manga-kissa 198 Collections 57 Prada Aoyama Building 118 markets 23, 31, 39, 48, O museums 22, 31 public art 231 49, 119 & Tokyo Bay 11, 53, music 44, 45, 222 176-80, 226, 176, 293 public holidays 251 Marunouchi & Nihombashi Myonichikan 141 17, 53, 54-64, 54, 276-7 Odaiba Kaihin-kōen 178 Myth of Tomorrow 104 Ōdake-san 194 accommodation 198-9 R drinking & nightlife 55, Ōe Kenzaburo 233 rakugo 228 Ōedo Antique Market 59 63-4 N rāmen 36, 132, 38 Ōedo Onsen Monogatari 11, entertainment 64 Nakagin Capsule Tower rickshaws 168 food 55, 62-3 70, 72 180, 11 Rikugi-en 139, 139 Naka-Meguro 96-7, 98-9 Ogikubō 128 highlights 54, 56-7 Rinnō-ji (Nikkō) 183 shopping 55, 64 Nakamise-dōri 166-7 Okada Museum of Art (Hakone) 186 RiSūPia 178 sights 56-62 Nakano 128 Oku-Tama 194 robots 225 transport 55 Nakano Broadway 128 Old Hakone Highway & around 53, Matsuo Bashō 233 Namiyoke-jinja 68 (Hakone) 187 77-89, 77, 280-1 measures 252 National Art Center, Tokyo Olympics, 2020 210, 220 accommodation 200-1 medical services 249-50 79-80, 11, 82 Omote-sandō 116, 118, 121 drinking & nightlife 78, Meguro Parasitological National Diet 81 86-8 onsen 11, 146, 180, 187, Museum 92-3 National Film Centre 62 entertainment 88 237-9, 240, 11, see also Meguro, see Ebisu, Meguro National Museum of sentō food 78, 84-6 & around Emerging Science & Innovation 178 opening hours 33, 47, 251 highlights 10, 77 Meguro-gawa 92, 98, 99 Origami Kaikan 149 safety 86 Meiji Restoration 216-17 National Museum of Modern Art 58 origami lessons 149 shopping 78, 88-9 Meiji-jingū 9, 115, 8, 115 National Museum of Orkin, Ivan 132 sights 79-84 Meiji-jingū Gyoen 115 Western Art 158-9 Osamu, Tezuka 222 transport 78 268 Roppongi Art Triangle entertainment 135-6 Tokyo Opera City Art 10, 78 food 126, 129, 132-3 T Gallery 127 Taiko Drum Museum 168 Roppongi Hills 79, 219, 82 highlights 7, 125 Tokyo Sea Life Park 178 Taishakuten 170 Ryōgoku 170, 172-3 shopping 126, 136 Tokyo Sky Tree 168, 170, 236 Taishakuten-sandō 170 ryokan 195, 196 sights 127-9 Tokyo Station 58 Taiyūin-byō (Nikkō) 183 Ryū, Murakami 234 transport 126 Tokyo Station Gallery 58

INDEX INDEX 226 walks 134, 134 Tokyo Tower 80, 82-3 Takahata Isao 222-3 Shinjuku I-Land 127 Tokyo Wonder Site Hongo S 93 150 sadō 230 Shinjuku-gyoen 127, 130

R Takao-san 194 Tokyū Plaza 118

- safety 42, 86, 251-2 Shin-kyō (Nikkō) 184-5 v Takaosanguchi 194 Tomigaya 111 sake 42 Shinsen 108 takarazuka 230 Tomio Koyama Gallery 104 samurai 214 Shintō shrines 22 Takashi, Murakami 128 Tomioka Hachiman-gū 171 Sangedatsumon 80 69-70, 71 Takeshita-dōri 9, 116, 9 Toranomon 81, 87-8 Sanja Matsuri 25 93 Takinō-jinja (Nikkō) 185 Toranomon Hills 17, 81 Saw sculpture 179 Shiseido Gallery 69 Taro Okamoto Memorial Tōshō-gū (Nikkō) 182-3 Shitamachi 29, 165, 169, SCAI the Bathhouse 161 Museum 117 215, 169 tourist information 253-4 Science Museum, Tokyo 58 taxes 47, 196, 252 Shitamachi Museum 158 tours 247 Seafood Intermediate taxis 243, 246 Wholesalers’ Area 67-8 Shitamachi Museum Traditional Crafts Museum tea 42 168 Sengaku-ji 93, 94 Annex 161 tea ceremonies 230 train travel 242-3, 244-6 Sensō-ji 12, 166-7, , shōchū 42 13 166 teahouses 41, 43, 139 travel to Tokyo 19, 242-3 sentō 30, 66, 163, 175, shōgeki 229 technology 225 travel within Tokyo 19, 239-40, see also onsen shokudō 37 telephone services 18, 252-3 244-7 seppuku 214 shopping 9, 17, 39, 46-9, temples 22, 31, 234 Tsukiji Hongwan-ji 69 Shiba-kōen 80-1, 84-5 215, 217, 219, 225-6, 258, , see also Tennōzu Isle 179 Tsukiji Market 7, 17, 67-8, Shibamata 170 48 individual neighbour- Tezuka Osamu 222 7, 67 & Shimo-Kitazawa hoods, theatre 44, 45, 227-30 Tsukiji, see Ginza & Tsukiji 53, 101-12, 226, 101, Shopping subindex time 253 Tsukudako-bashi 74 283, 106-7, 109 shrines 22, 31, 234 tipping 33, 251 Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū accommodation 202-3 smoking 252 Tod’s 118 (Kamakura) 190 drinking & nightlife 102, Sōgetsu Kaikan 81-4 tuna auctions 68 108, 110 Togetsukyō 139 Sōseki Natsume 233 TY Harbor Brewery 179 entertainment 102, Toguri Museum of Art Spain-zaka 104 110-11 104-5 Spiral Building 118 food 102, 105, 108 toilets 253 U sports 44, 45, see highlights 16, 101, 103 Tōkei-ji (Kamakura) 191 & Yanaka 53, 153-63, also individual Tokyo Bay, see Odaiba & , shopping 111-12 neighbourhoods, 153 294 Tokyo Bay sights 103-5 sports, Sports & accommodation 206-7 sports & activities 112 Activities subindex Tokyo Big Sight 179 drinking & nightlife 162-3 transport 102 St Mary’s Cathedral Tokyo City View 79, 82-3 entertainment 163 walks 108-9, 109 Tokyo 141 Tokyo Dai-jingū 140 food 154, 161-2 Shibuya Center-gai 104, streetcars 141 Tokyo Dome City 140 highlights 16, 153, 155-7 106-7 Studio Alta 134 Tokyo Gallery + BTAP 69 shopping 163 Shibuya Crossing 16, 103, Studio Ghibli 222-3 Tokyo Haru-sai 163 sights 155-61 16, 103 subway travel 244-6 Tokyo Ichiba Project 67 sports & activities 163 Shibuya Hikarie 104 Suginami Animation Tokyo International Forum transport 154 Shimo-Kitazawa, see Shibuya Museum 128 58-9, 61 walks 160, 160 & Shimo-Kitazawa Sumida River, see Asakusa Tokyo Metropolitan Ueno Tōshō-gū 158 & Sumida River Government Offices Shinjuku & west Tokyo 53, Ueno Zoo 158 Sumida-gawa fireworks 25 127, 130 125-36, 125, 286-7, Ueno-kōen 158 6-7, 29 Sumiyoshi-jinja 74 Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Art 159 ukiyo-e 175, 230-1 accommodation 203-4 sumo 12, 44, 175, 13 Tokyo Metropolitan Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial drinking & nightlife 7, Sumo Museum 170 Museum of Art 116 126, 133, 135 Museum of Sunda, Mike 97 Photography 92 Uogashi-yokochō 67 Suntory Museum of Art 79 Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Super Dry Hall 168 Art Museum 92 Sights 000 V supermarkets 39 Tokyo Midtown 79 Map Pages vacations 251 000 sushi 35-6, 40, 10 16, Photo Pages 000 vegetarian & vegan 155, 3, 16, 155, 156-7 travellers 39, 40 269 video arcades 152 Matsumotorō 69 viewpoints 23, 43 Z H Meal MUJI Yūrakuchō 62-3 Zeniarai-benten (Kamakura) visas 254 Hainan Jeefan Shokudō 85 Miyafuji (Hakone) 187 192 Hanabi 96 Mominoki House 119 Zōjō-ji 80-1, 83 Hantei 162 Mucha-an 145 W Zōshigaya-reien 141 Harajuku Gyōza-rō 117 Wadakura Fountain Mugimaru 2 144 Hayashi 85 INDEX Park 58 Hibiki 179 walking tours 57, 68, N 5 EATING Higashi-Yama 96-7 171, 247 Nagi 132

Hippari Dako (Nikkō) 185 EATING walks Nagi Shokudō 105 A Hōnen Manpuku 63 Harajuku & Aoyama Nagomi 162 118, Afuri 93 Honmura-An 84 118 Nagomi-chaya (Nikkō) 185 Kagurazaka 144-5, 144 Agaru Sagaru Nishi Iru Hoppy-dōri 173 Higashi Iru 117 Nakajima 132 Shimo-Kitazawa 108-9, Hōtō Fudō Nataraj 70-1 109 Ahiru Store 111 (Kawaguchi-ko) 194 Akasaka Ichiryu Bekkan 85 Nezu no Taiyaki 162 Shinjuku 134, 134 Amanoya 150 Nihonbashi Dashi Bar 63 Shitamachi 169, 169 I Asakusa Imahan 172 Numazukō 129 Tsukiji 74, 74 Ippo 96 Yanaka 160, 160 Iriyama Sembei 173 Watari Museum of B Irokawa 172 O Contemporary Art 117 Baikatei 144 Isegen 150 Odaiba Takoyaki Museum 179-80 weather 19, 24, 25, 26, 27 Bakery & Table Ivan’s Rāmen 132 Omoide-yokochō 129, websites, see internet (Hakone) 189 Izu-ei Honten 161-2 131 Ore-no-dashi 70 resources Beard 97 Izu-ei Umekawa-tei 162 weights 252 Bills 179 Otafuku 172 West, Allan 159 Bird Land 71 Ouca 96 J west Tokyo, see Shinjuku & Bombay Bazar 96 Jōmon 84 west Tokyo Botan 150-1 P whisky 42 Bowls Donburi Café Pariya 119 WWII 218 (Kamakura) 192 K Pepa Cafe Forest 133 Breadworks 179 Kado 145 Brozers’ Hamburger 62 Kaikaya 108 Y Kamachiku 162 R Yagiri no Watashi 170 Rokurinsha 172 Kanda Yabu Soba 150 Yaku-ō-in (Takaosanguchi) C Rose Bakery (Ginza) 76 194 Kappō Miyako 172-3 Cafe 1894 63 Rose Bakery Kikanbō 150 Yamatane Museum of Canal Cafe 145 (Marunouchi) 62 Art 92 Kikunoi 85-6 Chinese Cafe 8 84 Royal Garden Café 117 Yanaka Ginza 159, 161 Kimagure-ya 71 Chōchin Monaka 173 Ruby 146 Yanaka, see Ueno Kinokuniya International & Yanaka Supermarket 119 Yanaka-reien 161 D Kobachi-ya 85 S Yasunari, Kawabata 233 d47 Shokudō 105 Komagata Dojō 171 Sagatani 105 Yebisu Garden Place 92, Daikokuya 171 Komaki Shokudō 150 Sakurada Udon 94-5 Daiwa Sushi 71 Kozue 132 (Fuji-Yoshida) 194 Yokoyama Taikan Memorial Kururi 141, 145 Sakura-tei 117 Hall 159 E Kyūbey 71 Sasa-no-Yuki 161 Yoshimoto, Banana 234 Eat More Greens 84-5 Kyūsyū Jangara 117 Shimanto-gawa 85 National Stadium Ebisu-yokochō 96 Shin-chan 146 116, 120 Shinjuku Asia-yokochō 132 L Yoyogi-kōen 15, 116, 14, Shinsuke 161 Lauderdale 84 120-1 F Shirube 109 Le Bretagne 145 Yukio, Mishima 233-4 Food Show 105 Shishimaru Shokudō 172 Yushima 159, 161-2 Futaba 62 Sometarō 171-2 Yushima Seidō (Yushima M Sushi-no-Midori 108 Shrine) 150 G Maisen 119 Yushima Tenjin 159 Ganko Dako 97 Maru 71 T Yūshū-kan 140 Matsubara-an (Kamakura) Gonpachi 84 Tabela 105 Yūyake Dandan 160 192 Gyōshintei (Nikkō) 185 Ta-im 96 Matsukiya 108 Gyōza Center (Hakone) 187 Taimeike 63 270 Tamahide 62 Asahi Sky Room 174 Tetchan 133 Aux Amis Des Vins 75 K T Tofuya-Ukai 85 Kagaya 71, 75 These 87 Kamiya Bar 173 Tight 110 Tokyo Curry Lab 84 B Kappabashi Coffee 174 Toranomon Koffee 87 Tokyo Rāmen Street 62 Bar Goldfinger 135 Kayaba Coffee 162 Torindō 162 Tomoegata 173 Bar Martha 99 INDEX INDEX Kinfolk 99 Town House Tokyo 75 Tonki 97 Bar, The 180 Komatsu Bar 76 Tsutsuji-chaya 139 Trattoria Tsukiji Bear Pond Turret Coffee 75 Paradiso! 71 Espresso 108

DRINKING &NIGHTLIFE Two Rooms 119 Tsuki no Shizuka 132 Beat Cafe 110 L Tsunahachi 132-3 Beer Bar Bitter 145 Lucite Gallery 173 Tsurutontan 84 Berg 135 W Boo 152 M Warrior Celt 163 U Bousingot 162 Manpuku Shokudō 63 Waterline 179 Udon Yamachō 93, 96 Bullet’s 87 Milonga Nueva 151 What the Dickens! 99 Buri 97 Mistral Bleu/Train Womb 110 V Bar 86 Viron 105 C Montoak 122 Z Voie Lactée 81 Cafe Asan 151 Mori-no Beer Garden 122 Zoetrope 133 Cafe de l’Ambre 75 Mugimaru 2 144 Muse 87 W Cafe Salvador 63 Wander Kitchen Canteen 180 3 ENTERTAINMENT (Kamakura) 192 Cha Ginza 75 N AKB48 Theatre 151 Warayakiya Akasaka 85 Craft Beer Market 63-4 N3331 151 Asakusa Engei Hall 174 World Breakfast Allday 119 ’Cuzn Homeground 173 Nakajima no Ochaya 69 B-Flat 88 Nakame Takkyū Lounge 97 Billboard Live 88 Y D Never Never Land 109 Blue Note Tokyo 122-3 New York Bar 135 Yabu Soba 161 Downstairs Coffee 86 Club Goodman 151 Yakiniku Champion 96 Club Quattro 111 Cotton Club 64 Yanmo 119 E O Crocodile 123 Yong Xiang Sheng Jian Ef 174 Oath 122 Honda Theatre 111 Guan 146 Enjoy House 97, 99 Omotesando Koffee 122 Yūrakuchō Sanchoku Jazz Spot Intro 146 Inshokugai 70, 37 Kabuki-za Theatre 70 F P Kingyo 88 Pasela 87 Festa Iikura 86 Liquid Room 100 Fuglen Tokyo 111 Peak Bar 135 DRINKING & Loft 136 6 Peter: The Bar 63 NIGHTLIFE Fukiage-chaya 139 Meiji-za 62 Pink Cow 86 @Home Cafe 151 Fukurou-no-mise 75 National Nō Theatre 122 Popeye 173 National Theatre 88 A G New National Theatre 135 A to Z Cafe 122 Garden, The 87 R Ni Man Den Atsu 128 Royal Garden Café 117 Advocates Café 133 Ginza Suki Bar 75 Nippon Budōkan 64 Ruby Room 110 Agave 86 Good Beer Faucets 108, Oiwake 174 Ageha 180 110 Robot Restaurant 135 Air 97 S Setagaya Public Theatre 110-11 AKB48 Cafe 151 H Sake Plaza 87-8 Shelter 111 Albatross G 133 Harajuku Taproom 122 Salsa Sudada 86 Shimbashi Embujō Amazake-chaya Samurai 135 Theatre 75 (Hakone) 187 Sarutahiko Coffee 99 I Shinjuku Pit Inn 135 Araku 133 Sekirei 122 Imasa 151 STB 139 88 Arty Farty 135 Shidax Village 110 Suntory Hall 88 So Tired 63 Theatre Tram 111 J Sound Museum Tokyo Bunka Janome 87 Vision 110 Sights 000 Kaikan 163 Map Pages 000 Jicoo the Floating SuperDeluxe 87 Bar 180 Tokyo Takarazuka Photo Pages 000 Theatre 75-6 271

Unit 99-100 Hakuhinkan 76 Otonomad 108-9 SPORTS & Uplink 111 Harcoza 98 Otsu Furniture 100 2 ACTIVITIES WWW 110 A Taste of Culture 39 I P Arashio Stable 175 Isetan 136 Parco 112 Buddha Bellies 39 7 SHOPPING Isetatsu 163 Pass the Baton 124 Chūzen-ji Onsen (Nikkō) 239-40 INDEX 2k540 Aki-Oka Artisan Itōya 76 Puppet House 146 151-2 Daibutsu Hiking Course 6% Doki Doki 123 (Kamakura) 192

J R Funasei 178 SPORTS &ACTIVITIES Japan Sword 89, 89 RagTag 123 Hakone Yuryō (Hakone) 187 A Japan Traditional Crafts RanKing RanQueen 136 Jakotsu-yu 175 Akihabara Radio Aoyama Square 88 Jingū Baseball Kaikan 152 Jimbōchō bookstores 152 Stadium 124 Akomeya 76 S Sada 144-5 Kamakura Rent-a-Cycle Axis Design 89 (Kamakura) 190 K Shibuya 109 112, 112 Komparu-yu 66 Kapital 100 Shibuya Hikarie 112 B Mokuhankan 175 Kayōdō Hobby Lobby 152 Shimokita Garage Niwa-no-Yu 238-40 Bedrock 124 K-Books 152 Department 108 Ōedo Onsen Monogatari 11, Bengara 174 KiddyLand 123 Soi 174 180, 11 Bic Camera 64 Kinokuniya 136 Solamachi 175 Bicqlo 136 Ohara School of Kita-Kore Building 128 Sony Building 76 Ikebana 124 Bingoya 136 KITTE 64 Sōshin Kaleidoscopes 152 Blue & White 89 Oslo Batting Centre 134 Kukuli 144 Sou-Sou 124 Purikura no Mecca 112 Souvenir From Tokyo 89 Rokuryu Kōsen 163 C L Spank 128 Round1 Stadium 179 Chabara 152 Strange Love 180 La Fuente Building 98 Ryōgoku Kokugikan 175, 13 Chicago Thrift Store 124 Studio Uamou 152 La Ronde D’Argile 146 Spa LaQua 146 Comme des Garçons 124 Laforet 123 Super Potato Condomania 124 Living Motif 89 T Retro-kan 152 Coredo Muromachi 64 Loft 112 Takashimaya 64 Symphony 178 Takumi 76 Take-no-Yu 238-40 D Tatazumai 152 Tenzan Tōji-kyō M (Hakone) 187 Daikanyama T-Site 98 mAAch ecute 152 Technologia 152 Tokyo Bike 162 Daimaru 58 Complex 152 Tenyasu Honten 74 Tokyo Disney Resort 180 Daiso 123 Meister 100 Tokyo Character Street 64 Tokyo Dome 146, 143 Disk Union 136 Mitsukoshi 64 Tokyo Hotarudo 174 Tokyo Joypolis 180 Do 100 Muji 64 Dog 123 Tokyo’s Tokyo 123 Monja Musubi 123 Yakatabune 178 Don Quijote (Roppongi) 89 Tōkyū Hands 111 Vingt-et-un 178 Don Quijote (Shinjuku) 136 Tolman Collection 88-9 Yagiri no Watashi 170 Dover Street Market N Tower Records 112 Ginza 76 Nakajima Hideyasu 74 Tsukikageya 111 Yumoto Onsen 239-40 Nakano Broadway 128 Yunessun (Hakone) 187 Natsuno 76 F U Nippon Hyakkuten 152 Fake Tokyo 112 Uniqlo 76 Nippori Fabric Town 163 4 SLEEPING Fujiya 175 Nogi-jinja flea market 80 9 Hours 202 Nuno 89 V G Vase 99 Gallery Kawano 124 Venus Fort 180 A O Ganso Shokuhin Agnes Hotel 205 Sample-ya 172 Obscura Coffee Andon Ryokan 207 Roasters 152 Y Good Day Books 100 Anne Hostel 208 Ōedo Antique Market 59 Yanaka Matsunoya 163 Annex Katsutarō Okura 98 Yodobashi Akiba 152 Ryokan 206 H Hills 118 Yonoya Kushiho 174-5 Annex Turtle Hotori-An Hacoa 152 On Sundays 117 Yūma 62 (Nikkō) 185 Haight & Ashbury 108 Oriental Bazaar 123-4 Asia Center of Japan 200 272 K’s House Mt Fuji (Mt Ryokan Katsutarō 206-7 B H Fuji) 194 Ryokan Sansuisō 202 B Roppongi 200 Hakone Tent (Hakone) 189 K’s House Tokyo 207 Ryokan Shigetsu 208 Hatago 208 Hilltop Hotel 205 C L S Hōmeikan 206 Capitol Hotel Tōkyū 201 Ladies 510 203 Sakura Hostel 208 INDEX INDEX Hotel Avanshell Capsule & Sauna Sakura Hotel Century 202 Akasaka 200 M Jimbōchō 205 Cerulean Tower Tōkyū Hotel Century Southern Tower 204 Mandarin Oriental Tokyo 199 Sakura House 200 SLEEPING Hotel 202 Sawanoya Ryokan 206 Citadines 204 Hotel Chinzanso 205 Marunouchi Hotel 199 Sekitei 204 Claska 201 Hotel Coco Grand 207 Millennium Mitsui Garden Hotel Tokyo 199 Shibuya Granbell Hotel 202 Conrad Tokyo 200 Hotel Excellent Ebisu 201 Hotel Fukudaya 202 Mitsui Garden Hotel Ginza Spa LaQua 198 Hotel Graphy 206 Premier 199 Sukeroku No Yado Sadachiyo 208 D Hotel Mets Shibuya 203 Dormy Inn Premium Hotel My Stays N Shibuya Jingūmae 203 205-6 New Central Hotel 206 T Hotel Ōkura 201 Nikkō Kanaya Hotel Toco 206 E Hotel Ryumeikan Tokyo 199 (Nikkō) 185 TokHouse 206 E Hotel Higashi-Shinjuku Hotel S 200 Nikkorisou Backpackers Tokyo Central Youth 204 Hotel Unizo 203 (Nikkō) 185 Hostel 205 Excel Hotel Tōkyū 203 Hotel Villa Fontaine Nishitetsu Inn Shinjuku 204 Tokyo Dome Hotel 205 Roppongi 200 Nui 207 Tokyo Ryokan 207 F Hotel Villa Fontaine Tokyo Station Hotel 198-9 Shiodome 199 Fuji Hakone Guest House O Tōkyū Stay Aoyama Premier 203 (Hakone) 189 Ōedo Onsen Fujisan Hotel (Mt Fuji) 194 I Monogatari 198 Tōkyū Stay Higashi-Ginza 199 Fujiya Hotel (Hakone) 189 Ibis Tokyo Shinjuku 204 Tougenya Hotel 207 Imperial Hotel 199-200 P G Palace Hotel Tokyo 198 W Gakushikaikan 206 K Park Hyatt Tokyo 204 Wakana 205 Ginza Grand Hotel 199 Kadoya Hotel 204 Peninsula Tokyo 198 Weekly Dormy Inn Meguro Gran Cyber Cafe Khaosan Tokyo Kabuki 201 Bagus 198 207-8 R Grand Hyatt Tokyo 201 Khaosan World 207 Retro Metro 208 Green Plaza Shinjuku 203 Kimi Information Y Center 200 Ritz-Carlton Tokyo 201 Terminal Hotel 198 Kimi Ryokan 204-5 Royal Park Hotel The Haneda 202

Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 273 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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