©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 263 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS Simon Richmond Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help- Domo arigato gozaimasu to Kylie Clark and ful hints, useful advice and interesting colleagues at JNTO London; Tabata Naoko and anecdotes: colleagues at TCVB; Osawa Kei at Intermedia- Badong Abesamis, Parham Fazelzadeh, Rob- teque; Tokyo friends Toshiko, Kenichi, Giles ert Glass, Shinobu Honjo, Steve Hoy, Laura and William; Masami Takahashi in Hakone; Huddleston, Adam Keyworth, Neels de Leeuw, Brent Potter for expert advice on Fuji and for HangYu Li, Cristina Miret, Antonio Mogort, Rob getting me safely up to the summit and back; Nelson, Torben Retboll, Gregory Schmauch, Tokyo coauthor Rebecca, and Laura and Diana Roch Stefaniak, Veronica Tam, Jennifer Ward, for keeping it all running smoothly at Lonely Mathias Wendt Planet headquarters. AUTHOR THANKS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Tokyo Subway Route Map, Bureau of Trans- Rebecca Milner portation, Tokyo Metropolitan Government, A big thanks to my mom for her company, and Tokyo Metro Co Ltd © 2014.6. to my husband for his tireless patience. To Emi and Steph for their willingness to visit ‘just one Illustrations pp156–7 by Michael Weldon. more bar’ and to Jon and Kanna for their cook- ing. Kyary, Mike, Allan and Ivan: thank you for Cover photograph: Restaurant in Omoide- your ‘local knowledge’. Will, Tabata-san, Sayuri, Yokochō, Shinjuku; Jon Arnold/AWL. Miyawaki-san, Tristan, Toshiko and Kenichi: I’m grateful for your help and recommend ations. And finally to Simon and Laura: thank you for all of your help, guidance and patience. 264 THIS BOOK Destination Editor Assisting Cartographers Laura Crawford Julie Dodkins, Anthony This 10th edition of Tokyo was Product Editors Phelan, Julie Sheridan researched and written by Carolyn Boicos, Alison Cover Researcher Rebecca Milner and Simon Ridgway Naomi Parker Richmond.The 9th edition Senior Cartographer Thanks to Naoko Aka- BEHIND THE SCENES was written by Timothy Diana Von Holdt matsu, Kate James, Claire N Hornyak and Rebecca Book Designer Naylor, Karyn Noble, Martine Milner, and the 8th edition by Jessica Rose Power, Ellie Simpson, Luna Andrew Bender and Timothy Assisting Editors Katie Soo, Lauren Wellicome N Hornyak. This guidebook Connolly, Kellie Langdon, was produced by the following: Charlotte Orr, Sally Schafer ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 265 See also separate subindexes for: 5 EATING P269 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P270 3 ENTERTAINMENT P270 7 SHOPPING P271 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P271 Index 4 SLEEPING P271 21_21 Design Sight 79 Aoyama Rei-en 80 books crafts 23, 47, 49, 105 3331 Arts Chiyoda 149 Aoyama, see Harajuku & arts 229 Crafts Gallery 58 Aoyama history 216 credit cards 251 aquariums 80, 178 literature 210, 232-4 cruises 178, 246 A Arashio Stable 175 accommodation 19, 195-208, manga 221-2 culture 210-11 256, see also individual architecture 118, 234-6 onsen 238 culture, pop 15, 221-6 neighbourhoods, area codes 252 pop culture 225 currency 250 Sleeping subindex arts 23, 45, 227-34 breweries 42, 122, 179 cycling 30, 57, 162, 246-7 activities 24-7, see Asakura Chōso Museum 161 Bridgestone Museum of also individual Asakusa & Sumida River 53, Art 59 neighbourhoods, Sports 164-75, 164, 291, 292 Buddhist temples 22, D d47 Museum 104 & Activities subindex accommodation 207-8 31, 234 Daibonsho 80 addresses 247 drinking & nightlife 165, bunraku 44 Advertising Museum 173-4 bus tours 247 Daibutsu (Kamakura) 190 Tokyo 69 entertainment 174 bus travel 243, 246 Daikanyama 96-7, 98-9 air travel 17, 242-3 food 165, 171-3 bushidō 214 Daimyo Clock Museum 161 Akagi-jinja 145 highlights 9, 12, 164, 166-7 business hours 33, 47, 251 dance 44, 229 Akasaka 81, 84, 85-6 shopping 165, 174-5 butō 44, 229 dangers, see safety AKB48 222 sights 166-71 B’z 222 dengue fever 250 Akihabara & around 53, 147- sports & activities 175 Design Festa 116 52, 225, 147, 290, 14 transport 165 Dior Building 118 accommodation 205-6 C walks 169, 169 disabilities, travellers with drinking & nightlife cafes 41, 43 254 Asakusa-jinja 167, 21 148, 151 capsule hotels 195, 196 Diver City Tokyo Plaza 179 ATMs 250 entertainment 151 car travel 247 Dōgenzaka 104 Aum Shinrikyō cult 219-20 food 148, 150-1 Cat Street 116 drinking & nightlife 30, 41-3, highlights 15, 147 Awashima-dō 167 cell phones 18, 252 258, see also individual shopping 148, 151-2 Ayumi, Hamasaki 222 cherry blossoms 15, 24-5, neighbourhoods, sights 149-50 Azabu-Jūban 84-5, 87 30, 57, 14, 99 Drinking & Nightlife subindex sports & activities 152 Azuma-bashi 169 Chidori-ga-fuchi moat 57 driving 247 transport 148 children, travel with 28 duty-free shopping 47 Akihabara Electric Town 149 B Chingo-dō 168 Akihabara Radio Center 149 bargaining 251 Chinzan-sō 141 Amazake Yokochō 62 bars 41, 43 cinema 210, 222-3, 232, 233 E ambulance 248 baseball 44, 124, 140, 146 cinemas 45 earthquakes 141, 217, 219-20 Ameya-yokochō 158 Baseball Hall of Fame & climate 19, 24, 25, 26, 27 Ebisu, Meguro & around 53, Amuse Museum 168 Museum 140 clubs 41, 43 90-100, 90, 284-5 amusement parks 140, Bashō, Matsuo 233 coffee 42 accommodation 201-2 168, 180 bathhouses, see onsen, sentō collectors’ items 47 drinking & nightlife 91, anime 24, 28, 49, 149, 152, bathrooms 253 comics, see manga 97, 99 222-3 beer 17, 42, 43, 92, 179 Container, The 99 entertainment 99-100 antique fairs 48 Beer Museum Yebisu 92 costs 18, 33, 42, 196, 245, food 91, 93, 96-7 Benten-dō 158 248, 252 highlights 90 bicycle travel 30, 57, 162, courses shopping 91, 100 Sights 000 246-7 cooking 39 sights 92-3 Map Pages 000 black markets 218 ikebana 81, 84, 124 transport 91 Photo Pages 000 boat travel 178, 246 origami 149 economy 210, 219-20 266 Edokoro 159 Gallery Koyanagi 69 sights 115-17 food 33 Edo-Tokyo Museum 170, 22 Gallery Kura 150 sports & activities 124 literature 232 Edo-Tokyo Open Air gardens 23, 31 transport 114 planning 18 Architecture Museum gay travellers 43, 248 walks 118, 118 pop culture 225 129 Geisha Shinmichi 144 Harmonica-yokochō 129 sentō 240 electricity 248 General Nogi’s Residence 80 Haruki, Murakami 234 shopping 47 INDEX electronics shops 48 Ghibli Museum 128-9, 226 Hase-dera (Kamakura) 190 interpreters 248 emergencies 248, 258 Ginza Graphic Gallery 69 Hatajuku 187 Isao, Takahata 222-3 Engaku-ji (Kamakura) 190 Ginza & Tsukiji 53, 65-76, Hatajuku Yosegi Kaikan itineraries 20-1, 35 E Enju-ji 160 65, 278-9, 72-3 (Hatajuku) 187 izakaya 37-8, 40, 41 - K Ennō-ji (Kamakura) 191-2 accommodation 199-200 Hatakeyama Collection 93 entertainment 44-5, drinking & nightlife 66, hatsu-mōde 24 see also individual 71, 75 Hattori Hanzō 213 J Japan Folk Crafts Museum neighbourhoods, entertainment 75-6 Entertainment subindex Hayao, Miyazaki 222 105 food 66, 70-1 etiquette 33, 42, 239-40 health 248-9, 250 Japan Nursing Association highlights 7, 15, 65, 67-8 events 24-7, 226, 227 Hibiya-kōen 69 building 118 shopping 66, 76 Hidari Zingaro 128 Japanese language 255-62 sights 67-70 Hie-jinja 81 Japanese Sword Museum F transport 66 hiking 127 fashion 46-7, 49, 223, 225 walks 74, 74 Kamakura 192 jazz 45 Ferris Wheel 178 Golden Gai 133, 130 Mitsutōge-yama 194 JCII Camera Museum 141 festivals 24-7, 226, 227 Gotanda 100 Mt Fuji 193 J-pop 222 films 210, 222-3, 232, 233 Great Kantō Earthquake Oku-Tama 194 Jusaburō-kan 62 fire services 248 217 Takao-san 194 food 10, 17, 30, 32-40, 10, Gundam 179, 225, 226, 224 Hinokichō-kōen 79 K 32, 33, 34, 36, 38, Gundam Front Tokyo 179 history 23, 212-20 39, see also individual kabuki 15, 44, 227-8 holidays 251 neighbourhoods, Eating Kabukichō 7, 127-8, 6-7 subindex H hostess bars 42 Kabukichō Ichibangai 134 hot springs, see onsen cooking classes 39 Hachikō Statue 104, 107 Kabuki-za 15, 70, 15 Hotel New Ōtani 81 costs 33 haiku 233 Kachi Kachi Yama Ropeway itineraries 35 Hakone 186-9, 188 Hōzō-mon 166-7 (Mt Fuji) 194 language 256-8, 261-2 Hakone Museum of Art Hyogo-yokochō 144 Kagurazaka 144-5, 142 opening hours 33 (Hakone) 186 Kamakura 189-92, 191 vegetarian & vegan Hakone Open-Air Museum I Kaminari-mon 166 (Hakone) 186 travellers 39, 40 Ichigaya 140-1 Kanda 149-50 Hakone Sekisho (Hakone) websites 33 Idemitsu Museum of Kanda Myōjin (Kanda 186-7 fortune telling 167 Arts 59 Shrine) 149 Hakone-jinja (Hakone) 187 free attractions 31 ikebana 81, 84, 124, 230 Kanman-ga-Fuchi Abyss Fuji, see Mt Fuji Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien Ikebukuro 141, 226 (Nikkō) 185 69, 21, 73 Fuji Sengen-jinja Ikebukuro Earthquake Kappabashi-dōri 172 (Fuji-Yoshida) 193 Hamasaki Ayumi 222 Hall 141 karaoke 41, 43 Fuji TV 179 hanami 15, 24-5, 30, 57,