Heart of India
Plus optional extensions in
Bhutan: The Hidden Kingdom or
The South of India: Kerala & Cochin or
Kathmandu, Nepal
2016
Overseas Adventure Travel Heart of India Handbook Table of Contents 1. TRAVEL DOCUMENTS & ENTRY REQUIREMENTS ...... 3 YOUR PASSPORT ...... 3 VISAS REQUIRED ...... 4 EMERGENCY PHOTOCOPIES ...... 5 AIRPORT TRANSFERS ...... 5 2. HEALTH ...... 6 IS THIS ADVENTURE RIGHT FOR YOU ? ...... 6 STEPS TO TAKE BEFORE YOUR TRIP ...... 7 JET LAG PRECAUTIONS ...... 8 STAYING HEALTHY ON YOUR TRIP ...... 9 Altitude Illness (optional extension to Bhutan) ...... 9 3. MONEY MATTERS ...... 10 HOW TO CARRY YOUR MONEY ...... 10 Cash ...... 10 ATMs ...... 10 Credit Cards (and Debit Cards) ...... 11 CURRENCY ...... 12 TIPPING ...... 13 SHOPPING IN INDIA ...... 13 4. CLIMATE: A WORD ABOUT THE WEATHER ...... 16 Climate Charts ...... 17 5. PACKING JUST WHAT YOU NEED ...... 19 YOUR LUGGAGE & LOCKS ...... 19 LUGGAGE LIMITATIONS ...... 20 CLOTHING SUGGESTIONS ...... 21 TRAVELER ’S CHECKLISTS ...... 21 A WORD ABOUT ELECTRICITY ...... 24 6. LEARN ABOUT YOUR DESTINATION ...... 26 INDIA AT A GLANCE ...... 26 BHUTAN AT A GLANCE – OPTIONAL EXTENSION ...... 28 NEPAL AT A GLANCE —OPTIONAL EXTENSION ...... 30 CULTURE & POINTS TO KNOW ...... 33 SAFETY & SECURITY ...... 35 COMMUNICATIONS ...... 36 7. ADDITIONAL RESOURCES ...... 37 SUGGESTED READINGS ...... 37 SUGGESTED MOVIES ...... 41 USEFUL WEB SITES ...... 43
Travel Documents
1. Travel Documents & Entry Requirements Your Passport Please take a moment to confirm that your passport meets all of these requirements: • It should be valid for at least 6 months after your scheduled return to the U.S. • It should have the recommended number of blank pages (see below for details). • The blank pages must be labeled “Visas” at the top. Pages labeled “Amendments and Endorsements” are not acceptable.
Recommended number of blank pages Know that this recommendation is based on a “worst case” scenario. When you are on this adventure, you might use fewer pages, depending on the whims of the Immigration official on duty that day. Since the consequence of having too few pages can be severe—you could be denied entry into a country—we at OAT feel that in this case, safe is better than sorry, and we strongly recommend that you follow these guidelines.
• Main trip only : If you are taking only the main trip, you will require 2 blank passport pages. • Pre-trip extension to Bhutan : You will need 2 more pages for a total of 4. • Post-trip extension to Kerala : This extension does not require any additional pages. • Post-trip extension to Nepal : You will need 2 more pages for a total of 4 blank passport pages. • Both a pre- and a post-trip extension : Add the number of pages required for each of your extensions to the 2 pages required for the main trip.
If you need to renew your passport: Contact the National Passport Information Center (NPIC) at 1-877-487-2778, or visit their website at www.travel.state.gov for information on obtaining a new passport or renewing your existing passport. You may also contact our recommended visa service company, PVS International, at 1-800-556-9990 for help with your passport.
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Visas Required We’ll be sending you a detailed Visa Packet with instructions, application forms, and fees about 100 days prior to your departure . In the meantime, we’re providing the information below as a guideline on what to expect. This info is for U.S. citizens only. All visas and fees are subject to change.
° India—visa required. This visa must be obtained in advance. You must obtain your visa for India before you leave home. If you are taking the optional extensions to Bhutan or Nepal, you will need a multiple-entry visa for India.
• Bhutan (optional pre-trip extension)—visa required. We recommend you obtain this onsite. A photocopy or scan of your passport will be needed before departure. There are two steps to obtaining a visa onsite: The first step is advance registration, and the second is the formalities that you complete when you arrive in Bhutan. To register with the Bhutanese government in advance, you must send a clear color photocopy of your passport informational pages (the page with your photo and the opposite page) to OAT no later than 45 days prior to your departure. You will receive detailed instructions for Bhutan and a return envelope in your Visa Packet.
Please Note: The cost of this visa onsite is $40 U.S. cash per person. In addition to this fee, the local government will also charge a Bhutan Tourism Development Fee of approximately U.S. $12 per person and a Bhutan Airport Tax of approximately U.S. $18 per person. Because these fees are subject to last-minute changes without notice, we suggest you bring more than $70 in cash to cover any unexpected changes.
• Nepal (optional post-trip extension)—visa required. We recommended you obtain this in advance. Although a Nepal visa can be obtained on arrival, we recommend that you obtain your visa before you leave home, because entry requirements can change at any moment and the only way to ensure that you will not encounter problems at the border is to obtain your visa in advance. A 15-day single-entry visa should suffice for our extension.
Embassy contact information If you are staying longer in any of these countries, you should check with their embassy for the applicable regulations. (The government of Bhutan does not maintain an Embassy in the U.S., but questions can be directed PVS International at 1-800-556-9990 or at this website: http://www.un.int/bhutan/.)
India: 202-939-7000 Nepal: 202-667-4550
Traveling without a U.S. passport? If you are not a U.S. citizen, or if your passport is from any country other than the U.S., it is your responsibility to check with your local consulate, embassy, or a visa services company about possible visa requirements. For your convenience, we recommend the services of PVS International, a national visa service located in Washington D.C.; they can be reached at 1-800-556-9990 or www.pvsinternational.org.
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Emergency Photocopies The smartest and easiest security precaution you can take is to carry photocopies of key documents: the photo page of your passport plus any applicable visas, your air itinerary, and credit card numbers. Add emergency phone numbers like your credit card company and the number for your travel protection plan. Store copies separate from the originals. This can save you time, money, and bother if your documents are lost during your trip.
If you don’t feel like taking paper copies, consider going digital. Scan everything and email it to yourself. That way as long as you have access to email, you can access the info you need. Another option is to give copies to a trusted friend or relative at home as a backup that they can email or fax to you if you need it.
TIP: Our Trip Leaders in India strongly recommend that you bring a photocopy of your passport’s informational pages (the page with your photo and the opposite page) and the page with your Indian visa. Should your passport be lost or misplaced, or should you need additional documentation for local officials, having these documents on you will make all the difference.
Airport Transfers
Please note: If you plan on booking your own international flights or arranging with our air department to arrive/depart on an earlier/later date than standard for your program, airport transfers will NOT be included in your program price. Transfers must be purchased separately, as an optional add-on, and are subject to availability. To learn more, or purchase airport transfers, please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814.
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2. Health Is This Adventure Right For You? We’ve worked closely with our local Trip Leaders and regional associates to identify the aspects of this adventure that you should be aware of, from physical requirements to cultural factors. Please carefully review the information below prior to departing on this adventure . We reserve the right for our Trip Leaders to modify participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their condition would adversely affect the health, safety, or enjoyment of themselves or of other travelers.
Pacing • 7 locations in 16 days with 3 one-night stays • Multiple pre-dawn departures
Physical requirements • Not appropriate for travelers using wheelchairs or other mobility aids • Must be able to walk 2-3 miles unassisted each day and participate in 3-5 hours of daily physical activities, including scaling several steep steps without handrails • Asian squat-style toilets must be used in some villages without other facilities
Climate • Daytime temperatures range from 90-100°F • August and September are hot and humid, with heavy rains.
Terrain • Travel over some rugged paths, as well as bumpy, unpaved, dusty roads, both by bus and on foot
Transportation • Travel via bus (no heat or toilet on board), train, rickshaw, and game-viewing vehicle; our vehicles are locally made and are the best available in the region • Several long overland drives of 5-6 hours, including a 10-12 hour transfer with a train journey on Day 13
Accommodations & Facilities • One night in a comfortable but basic tented camp with private baths • All other accommodations are hotel-standard, with a variety of amenities, as well as private baths with Western-style toilet facilities • Most hotels in Bhutan do not have elevators, so if you are taking the optional extension in Bhutan, you must be able to climb stairs.
Cuisine • Meals will be based on the local cuisine; Western food is limited
Cultural insight • We may see people living in poverty, which could be distressing for some travelers
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Steps to Take Before Your Trip Before you leave on your adventure, there are at least four health-related things you should do. We’ll outline some of these steps in more detail in the following pages, but for now, here’s the short list:
• Step 1: Check with the CDC for their recommendations for the countries you’ll be visiting. You can contact them online at wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel or by phone at 1-800-232-4636 . • Step 2: Have a medical checkup with your doctor. • Step 3: Pick up any necessary medications, both prescription and over-the-counter. • Step 4: Have a dental and/or eye checkup. (Recommended, but less important than steps 1-3.)
Medical Checkup
After checking the CDC’s recommendations, we strongly recommend that you have a medical checkup with your doctor at least six weeks before your trip. (We suggest you check with the CDC first so that you can have an informed conversation with your doctor about vaccines and such.) Topics to discuss during your checkup are:
• The CDC recommendations. The CDC makes suggestions based on the destination, but that doesn’t mean the suggestions are right for you. Your doctor will be able to advise you on what is best considering your unique medical history. • Advice on what medicines (if any) to bring. For our suggestions of what types of medications to ask your doctor about, see the section titled “Medications” that follows. Remember to get a copy of any prescriptions—written as a generic drug name—so you can replace your medications if they are lost during the trip. • Your fitness for this adventure. This is a must if you have any medical conditions or physical limitations. Use the “Is This Adventure Right For You?” section on previous pages as a guideline. Make certain to review any medical condition you have, particularly cardiac or respiratory disease or diabetes, and discuss the details of the trip itinerary as it pertains to your health. Remember, your trip may take you into remote areas, with no nearby medical facilities.
Please notify us in writing about any medical condition that may require special attention. If your report is normal, you don’t need to send it to us. If you send us a medical report, we don’t use it to determine if you should take this trip, or if you are likely to enjoy it. Those decisions are up to you and your doctor.
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Medications
Prescription medication suggestions Of course, you’ll need to bring an ample supply of any prescription medications you happen to be taking. You’ll also want to talk to your doctor about any medications suggested by the CDC. In addition, we suggest you ask about prescriptions for:
• An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness • A pain medication. You might need this in the unlikely event of an injury in a location where medical attention would be delayed. • Altitude sickness medication (if you are taking the extension to Bhutan) • At time of writing, the CDC did recommend discussing anti-malaria medication with your doctor for India. The CDC also mentioned that malaria was present in Bhutan and Nepal, but not the areas we visit on this itinerary.
TIP : Anti-malarial medication can have strong side effects, so be certain to ask your doctor first.
Over-the-counter medication suggestions When traveling, keep in mind that not every country has approved every medication. Most major brands are OK, but some medications we take for granted are not allowed in other countries. Fortunately, the U.S. State Department offers advice on restricted medications online at http://travel.state.gov/content/passports/english/go/customs.html . (Look under the “Criminal Penalties” and “Special Circumstances” sections of each country you’ll be visiting. If you don’t see anything mentioned, then major U.S. brands should be fine.)
TIP : At time of writing, the State Department did not have any special warnings about American over- the-counter medications for India, Bhutan, or Nepal.
Traveling with medications To avoid loss and to have them handy, pack medications in your carry-on bag. For quicker security screening at the airport—and a better experience if you get stopped by customs while overseas—keep medicines in their original, labeled containers. To be prepared for any unforeseen loss of your medications, you should also bring copies of the prescriptions, written using the generic drug name rather than a brand name. Jet Lag Precautions You will feel better on the first days of your trip if, shortly before you leave home, you start to adjust to the different time zone of your destination. Since you will cross several time zones to reach your destination, you may lose many hours of regular sleep. On arrival, your body then will have to suddenly adjust to new sleeping and eating patterns. The result is jet lag. Its symptoms are fatigue—often compounded by insomnia and general restlessness—irritability, and vague disorientation. You cannot totally avoid jet lag; but you can minimize it. Here's how:
• Start your trip well-rested. • Begin a gradual transition to your new time zone before you leave or switch to your destination time zone when you get on the plane. Attempt to sleep and eat according to the new schedule. • Avoid heavy eating and drinking caffeine or alcoholic beverages right before–and during–your flight. Drink plenty of water and/or fruit juice while flying. • Stretch your legs, neck, and back periodically while seated on the plane, and make an effort to get up and walk about the cabin a few times to keep your blood circulation normal. • After arrival, avoid the temptation to nap. • Don’t push yourself to see a lot on your first day. • Try to stay awake your first day until after dinner.
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Staying Healthy on Your Trip
Safe Water Tap water is not safe to drink. Bottled water or treated drinking water is readily available. Inspect each bottle before you buy it to make sure the cap is sealed properly. Carry a bottle in your daypack at all times. Bottled drinks and juices, and hot drinks that have been boiled, are safe to drink. Carry a handkerchief to dry the tops of bottled drinks before and after opening.
Safe Food We’ve carefully chosen the restaurants for your group meals. Carry a handkerchief to dry any wet utensils or plates. Be very careful with food sold from vendors on the street, and with uncooked fruit and other foods. Fruit that you peel yourself is usually safe.
Electricity Supply A constant electricity supply cannot be guaranteed during overnight stays. Travelers dependent on electricity supply for health reasons (as in the case of those with sleep apnea) may want to consider a different OAT adventure.
Altitude Illness (optional extension to Bhutan) If you are taking the optional extension to Bhutan, you will probably feel some effects from the high altitudes. Even if you've been to high elevations previously, you could have a different reaction this time. For most people, the symptoms are mild, and will pass in a day or so. The most common symptoms of altitude sickness are lightheadedness, shortness of breath, headache, nausea, sleeplessness, and loss of appetite. You should take it easy, avoid smoking and alcohol, and drink plenty of fluids. We suggest taking a rest of a couple hours when you first arrive to acclimate yourself. Some people take a prescription medication starting when they arrive or one day before. Don’t take sleeping medications, as they suppress respiration. Even though you may experience a decreased appetite, force yourself to eat soups and other light foods.
If these ‘normal’ altitude symptoms become unmanageable, it is critical that you inform your Trip Leader. Please let the Trip Leader know if you experience any of the following: serious difficulty breathing, mental confusion, a severe and unremitting headache, continued difficulty breathing after a period of rest, or poor physical coordination (ataxia).
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3. Money Matters How to Carry Your Money Generally speaking, you’ll want to bring a mixture of different payment methods—some cash to exchange and a couple of cards—so that you’ll be prepared for any situation. In this chapter, we offer some tips on each type of payment method. One note: Traveler’s checks are not recommended. They can be difficult to exchange and are rarely accepted in shops and restaurants.
A cash reserve is especially important for the optional extension to Bhutan; you should assume that you will not be able to use a credit card or ATM card at all in Bhutan.
Cash We recommend that you bring some cash with you on this adventure. Cash has a few advantages over other forms of payment. It is more widely accepted than any other form of payment , and sometimes commands a better exchange rate. Cash is also a better choice for rural or undeveloped areas where ATMs and credit card machines are scarce.
So we know that bringing cash is a good idea—does that mean U.S. dollars or local currency? There is no need to obtain local currency before your trip. In fact, your bank in the U.S. may not be able to change U.S. dollars into Indian rupees because of the strict trade laws on Indian currency. You can change money when you arrive at banks, most hotels, and money exchange offices. Please note torn, dirty, or taped U.S. bills may not be accepted for exchange. For more information on what type of currency can be used on this trip, see the “Currency” section.
ATMs On this adventure, PLUS, Cirrus, and other international ATM networks are readily available in northern India, except in small villages, the National Parks, or at the OAT camp. In Nepal, ATMs are somewhat available in Kathmandu, but not in the small towns or villages. But finding the ATM is only the first step—using it may take patience. Some ATMs in this region will not accept U.S. cards (we suggest that you confirm if your card will work in India and/or Nepal with your bank). And even when you do find a machine that takes your card, they aren’t always reliable. You will often find machines that are either out of order, or out of money, so you may need to try more than one machine. Your Trip Leader will advise you on ATM availability and locations during the trip.
There are limited ATMs in Bhutan; you’ll need to bring enough cash to cover your expenses there.
Using a local ATM on an international network will allow you to withdraw money from your U.S. account in local currency; your bank at home will calculate the conversion rate and charge you in U.S. dollars. However, many banks charge a fee ranging from $1 to $5 for every time you use a foreign ATM. Others will charge you a percentage of what you withdraw. We recommend that you check with your bank before you depart. You’ll also want to notify your bank that you’ll be out of the country—that way when they see foreign ATM withdrawals, they won’t put a fraud alert on your account. Lastly, don’t forget to memorize the actual digits of your card’s PIN number (many keypads at foreign ATMs do not include letters on their keys—they only display numbers.)
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Credit Cards (and Debit Cards) Credit and debit cards are widely accepted in India for major purchases and in shops associated with the tourist trade (souvenirs, museum gift shops, etc.), but may not be accepted by smaller shops or restaurants.
In Bhutan, credit/debit cards are not accepted everywhere, and only some places in Nepal will take credit/debit cards . In these countries cash is usually the preferred form of payment, especially for small amounts. If you are taking the optional trip extension to Bhutan, be forewarned that it is safest to assume that you will not be able to use any credit cards. It is best to bring extra U.S. cash or pay using Indian rupees. Also note that goods and services in Bhutan are substantially more expensive than in India.
Even if you do not plan on using them, we suggest you bring one or two credit or debit cards as a “backup” or for optional tours. We also suggest that you bring more than one brand of card (Visa, MasterCard, American Express) if possible, because not every shop will take every card. For example, although the Discover card is now accepted in some countries outside the U.S., it is not widely adopted, so other brands will work at a much larger range of stores, restaurants, etc.
TIP : Many credit card companies have fraud alert departments that will freeze your card if they see suspicious charges—such as charges from another country. To avoid an accidental security block, it is a good idea to notify your credit card company you will be using your cards abroad. You can do this by calling their customer service number a week or two before your departure.
You should also double-check what phone number you could call if you have a problem with a card while you are abroad. Don’t assume you can use the 1-800 number printed on the back of your card—most 1- 800 numbers don’t work outside of the U.S.!
And speaking of credit cards, please keep in mind that optional tours with OAT can only be purchased with a credit or debit card (if it has a credit card logo and allows you to sign for purchases). Because our headquarters are in Boston, charges may appear to be from Boston or might be labeled as "OPT Boston" (depending on your credit card company).
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Currency For current exchange rates, please refer to our website www.oattravel.com, your bank, or the financial section of your newspaper.
Bhutan The official currency of Bhutan is the Ngultrum, but U.S. dollars are widely accepted. Indian currency in denominations up to 100 rupees can also be used in Bhutan, but larger Indian bills, such as the 500-rupee or 1000-rupee notes will not be accepted. ° Bills come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 500, and 1000 Ngultrum ° Coins come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 25, 50
India The official currency of India is the rupee, which is divided into 100 paise (singular: paisa). ° Bills come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 500, and 1000 rupees ° Coins come in denominations of 50 paise and 1, 2, 5, and 100
U.S. dollars are not widely accepted in India; the local currency is preferred. (Occasionally you might find a tourist-related business or a street vendor who will take U.S. dollars, but generally it is rupees all the way.)
Nepal The official currency of Nepal is the Nepalese rupee (Rs), which is divided into 100 paise (singular: paisa). ° Bills come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, 500, and 1000 rupees ° Coins come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 25, 50 paise; and 1, 2, 5, and 10 rupees
Both U.S. dollars and Indian rupees are widely accepted in Nepal. Because dollars are accepted and costs are low, a mix of small denomination U.S. bills ($1, 5, and 10) can be very useful.
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Tipping Of course, whether you tip, and how much, is always at your own discretion. For those of you who have asked for tipping suggestions, we offer these guidelines. Listed below are our recommendations for the tips that are not included in your tour price. All tips are quoted in U.S. dollars; tips can be converted and paid in local currency or in U.S. dollars. Do not use personal or traveler's check for tips.
• OAT Trip Leader: It is customary to express a personal "thank you" to your OAT Trip Leader at the end of your trip, especially if he or she has provided you with individual service. As a guideline, many travelers give $7-$10 per person per day. • Housekeeping staff at hotels : $1-2 per room, per night • Waiters : Your Trip Leader will tip waiters for included meals. If you are dinning on your own remember that it is common to tip anywhere from 5%-10% in restaurants. • Taxi drivers : If you are taking a taxi by yourself, keep in mind that tipping is not common practice, but many people simply let the driver keep the change by rounding up the fare to the next whole number.
Your tour price includes gratuities on the main trip and extensions for local guides, drivers, camp staff, and luggage porters that may assist you during the scheduled activities on your adventure.
Shopping in India It is Overseas Adventure Travel's goal to identify and provide you with shopping opportunities that highlight unique, locally-produced products with good value from reliable vendors. For this reason there may be scheduled visits to local shops during your adventure. There is no requirement to make a purchase during these stops, and any purchase made is a direct transaction with the shop in question, subject to the vendor’s terms of purchase. Overseas Adventure Travel cannot be responsible for purchases you make on your trip or for the shipment of your purchases.
Crafts & Souvenirs India offers many fine craft items at good prices. One simple way to find nice souvenirs at fair prices is to buy the local specialty of the city or region while you’re there. Delhi is a great location for buying silk carpets and Kashmir handicrafts. Jaipur has wonderful gems, intricately worked enamelware, and woolen carpets. Agra is known for exquisite marble inlay items; Rajasthan for miniature paintings, fabrics with block prints, marvelous tie-dye and embroidered fabrics. Beautiful brocades and crepe silk come from Varanasi.
Here is a list a few of the regional products that you’ll be able to discover during your trip. (Please note that this is a representative, or sample list, your actual itinerary could vary.)
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In India • Kashmir carpets (Delhi) With the ongoing controversy surrounding Kashmir (which is a disputed area jointly administered by India, Pakistan, and China) many Kashmiri have immigrated to Delhi, bringing their unique weaving style with them. Kashmiri carpets draw on the region’s history by creating Persian-style designs in silk. Many of the designs have been handed down from the days before the Mughal emperors, and even today many of the silks used are still colored with traditional mineral dyes. During the trip, we’ll visit a unique Kashmir carpet center to witness how these intricate hand-knotted carpets are made. • Block printing and woolen carpets (Jaipur) Local crafts in Jaipur include hand-woven woolen carpets and block-printed fabrics. Both crafts relay on repeating, interlocking, geometric designs typical of the area. We’ll tour a fabric block-printing center to learn more about these textiles that are so representative of the area. • Silk (Varanasi) Indian silk is widely prized for its bright colors and brocade-weaving technique. As the center of India’s silk-weaving trade, Varanasi is the place to find bolts of silk in all different colors, scarves, shawls, and of course, saris. We will have the opportunity to tour a silk-weaving workshop, see the looms, and meet workers.
Outside India • Bhutan: Popular Bhutan souvenirs include postage stamps, lovely hand-woven fabrics, carved masks, woven baskets, thangkhas, wooden bowls, handmade paper and finely crafted metal objects. In Bhutan, the buying and selling of antiques is strictly forbidden. • Nepal: Popular buys include locally made clothes such as lopsided topis (caps), knitted mittens and socks, Tibetan dresses, woven shawls, Tibetan multicolored jackets and men’s diagonally fastened shirts, saranghi (a small, four-stringed viola played with a horse-hair bow), Tibetan tea bowls, papier mâché dance masks, Buddhist statuettes and filigree ornaments, bamboo flutes and other folk objects.
Bargaining Some shops have fixed prices. In other places, merchants enjoy negotiating over prices. And bargaining is expected from all vendors. If this is your first experience at bargaining, don’t worry—you’ll quickly find your own style. Your opening offer should be well under the asking price. The only rule is that, if you make an offer, you should be prepared to buy at that price. And remember, whatever price you pay is okay, as long as the item is worth that price to you.
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U.S. Customs Regulations and Shipping Charges For all things related to U.S. Customs, the ultimate authority is the U.S. Bureau of Customs & Border Protection. Their website, www.cbp.gov has the answers to the most frequently asked questions. Or you can call them at 1-877-227-5511.
The top three points to know are: • At time of writing, your personal duty-free allowance is $800 for items brought with you. Items totaling more than $800 are subject to duty fees. • Items shipped home are always subject to duty when received in the U.S . Even when the shop has offered to include shipping and duties in the price, this typically means shipping to the nearest customs facility and payment of the export duties—not door-to-door shipping or payment of the import duties. All additional duties or shipping charges would be your responsibility. Unless an item is small enough to send by parcel service (like FedEx), chances are you will need arrange shipping or pick-up once the item is in the U.S. and will need to pay customs duties. • It is illegal to import products made from endangered animal species. U.S. Customs & Border Protection will seize these items, as well as most furs, coral, tortoise shell, reptile skins, feathers, plants, and items made from animal skins.
If You Have a Problem with a Purchase The best way to address a problem with a purchase is to not have one in the first place! So don’t forget to examine merchandise before paying for it, check contracts or agreements before signing, and review your receipt before leaving the shop. For major purchases, don’t hesitate to ask in advance about the return policy—local practice may vary from U.S. standards, so don’t assume that you have a certain number of days after the purchase to speak up.
But what if you do discover an issue with an item later on? In that case, your best recourse is to contact the vendor directly. For this reason we recommend that you keep a copy of all your receipts, invoices, or contracts, along with the shop’s contact information. Expect that any resolution will take longer than it would in the U.S. due to delays in communication, the complexities of international shipping/customs duties, and even cultural differences in how business is conducted.
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4. Climate: A Word About the Weather
Climate by Location
India India is characterized by hot, tropical weather, with variations from region to region. Though seasons follow similar cycles as the Northern Hemisphere, the first months of spring and fall can be very warm to hot. Mornings are especially cold in winter months. Monsoon rains occur throughout most regions of India during the summer months, between June and September. As these are generally warm climates, some hotels and vehicles do not have heat.
Note on traveling to India in December and January Starting roughly between the second and fourth week in December, Delhi, Khajuraho, and Varanasi are affected by occasional ground fog. The fog season usually lasts about a month. As a result, it's possible that the following will occur: • Delays or diversions for international flights into and out of Delhi • Disrupted viewing of the Taj Mahal during mornings and evenings • Delays or cancellations on the flights from Khajuraho to Varanasi and from Varanasi to Delhi.
Some activities may need to be re-arranged in the itinerary as a result of occasional fog. For example, if Khajuraho to Varanasi flight is cancelled due to fog, we may drive to Varanasi instead, which is a 12-hour transfer. Your Trip Leader will manage any changes on-site. Although this talk of changes may sound daunting, keep in mind there is a great advantage of traveling at this time—the cooler climate. Not only is it more comfortable, but also touring is not limited to mornings and late afternoons.
Optional extensions
• Bhutan: Bhutan has a wide range of climactic conditions, with areas at lower elevations— including Punakha and Wangdi—having cool, dry winters and hot, wet summers. Areas at higher elevations, such as Thimphu and Paro, will be the coldest places you visit on this trip, with both summers and winters much colder than in lowland India. • South India-Kerala State: The climate is tropical, with very warm temperatures year-round. In Kerala State, the driest season extends from mid-December through March. The monsoon season here starts the earliest of anywhere in India, typically at the beginning of June, and it can rain heavily through the summer months. Kerala also gets a second or “winter” monsoon, often from November into early December. • Nepal: Nepal’s weather is generally predictable and pleasant. There are two seasons—the dry season from October to May and the rainy, monsoon season from June to September. About 80 percent of the rain falls during the rainy period, so the remainder of the year is relatively dry. Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons; winter temperatures drop to freezing with a high level of snowfall in the mountains. Late spring and summer temperatures range from 83º in the hill regions to more than 104º in the Terai.
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Climate Charts The following charts reflect the average climate as opposed to weather conditions. This means they serve only as general indicators of what can reasonably be expected. As your departure approaches you may wish to monitor current weather conditions online. Here is the official data from the weather observation stations closest to our destinations:
MONTH NEW DELHI, India JAIPUR, India Temp. Average % Average Temp. Average % Average Average Relative Monthly Average Relative Monthly High-Low Humidity Rainfall High-Low Humidity Rainfall (am-pm) (inches) (am-pm) (inches) JAN 69-44 83-41 0.7 72-47 70-35 0.4 FEB 75-48 78-35 0.6 78-52 63-29 0.3 MAR 86-57 71-30 0.4 88-61 52-19 0.3 APR 98-69 55-21 1.2 99-71 39-15 0.2 MAY 105-77 49-24 1.1 105-78 42-18 0.6 JUN 105-82 61-36 2.1 103-82 59-32 2.3 JUL 96-78 82-61 8.5 94-78 82-62 7.8 AUG 93-78 85-64 9.8 90-76 88-67 8.0 SEP 94-75 81-51 5.3 92-74 79-48 3.3 OCT 92-66 76-33 0.6 92-66 63-29 0.6 NOV 83-55 78-31 0.3 84-56 65-33 0.1 DEC 73-46 82-38 0.6 76-49 71-38 0.3
MONTH KHAJURAHO, India PATNA (near Varanasi) Temp. Average % Average Temp. Average % Average Average Relative Monthly Average Relative Monthly High-Low Humidity Rainfall High-Low Humidity Rainfall (am-pm) (inches) (am-pm) (inches) JAN 76-47 -- 0.8 73-49 91-63 0.8 FEB 82-51 -- 1.1 79-53 85-52 0.4 MAR 93-60 -- 0.3 90-62 75-36 0.4 APR 104-71 -- 0.2 99-72 65-30 0.4 MAY 109-81 -- 0.4 101-77 76-41 1.4 JUN 104-83 -- 3.9 98-80 84-58 5.5 JUL 93-79 -- 12.7 91-79 93-77 12.6 AUG 90-77 -- 15.8 91-79 92-75 11.0 SEP 91-75 -- 7.4 90-78 93-77 8.4 OCT 93-66 -- 1.5 89-71 94-71 2.8 NOV 86-56 -- 0.3 84-59 91-66 0.3 DEC 78-48 -- 0.2 76-50 91-65 0.3
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MONTH COCHIN, South India THIMPHU, Bhutan* (optional extension) (optional extension) Temp. Average % Average Temp. Average % Average Average Relative Monthly Average Relative Monthly High-Low Humidity Rainfall High-Low Humidity Rainfall (am-pm) (inches) (am-pm) (inches) JAN 87-75 85-60 0.9 54-27 - 0.6 FEB 88-77 87-64 1.0 58-33 - 1.6 MAR 89-79 87-67 1.9 62-39 - 0.9 APR 89-80 86-70 5.1 68-45 - 2.3 MAY 88-80 89-73 12.5 73-56 - 4.8 JUN 84-77 94-82 22.3 76-59 - 9.6 JUL 83-76 94-83 20.6 66-56 - 14.5 AUG 83-76 94-81 13.4 77-60 - 13.5 SEP 84-77 93-79 9.8 74-59 - 6.0 OCT 85-77 93-76 12.5 71-51 - 1.5 NOV 86-77 91-72 6.3 64-41 - 0.3 DEC 87-75 86-62 1.9 58-30 - 0.1 *No climate data was available for humidity.
MONTH KATHMANDU, Nepal (optional extension) Temp. Average % Average Average Relative Monthly High-Low Humidity Rainfall (am-pm) (inches) JAN 60-40 97-65 0.7 FEB 63-44 96-58 0.6 MAR 70-50 94-50 1.2 APR 77-57 90-48 1.5 MAY 79-63 92-59 4.0 JUN 80-69 93-70 7.9 JUL 79-70 96-80 14.8 AUG 79-70 95-79 12.8 SEP 78-67 97-78 7.4 OCT 74-59 97-73 2.2 NOV 68-49 97-71 0.1 DEC 61-42 98-68 0.4
Online Forecast Monthly temperature averages for the countries you will be visiting, plus a current 10-day forecast, are available online through the My Account feature of our website www.oattravel.com/MyAccount .
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5. Packing Just What You Need Your Luggage & Locks
Luggage Suggestions
Checked luggage One duffle bag or suitcase. Due to space limitations on our motor coaches, you are allowed one piece of checked luggage per person. Look for one with heavy nylon fabric, wrap-around handles, built-in wheels, and a heavy-duty lockable zipper. Please do not bring a rigid (plastic shell) suitcase.
Carry-on bag You are allowed one carry-on bag per person. We suggest a tote or small backpack that can be used as both a carry-on bag for your flight and to carry your daily necessities—water bottle, camera, etc—during driving excursions and walking trips. Consider a backpack or waistpack that keeps both hands free and distributes the pack’s weight onto your back or hips.
TIP : Consider bringing a second, empty, lockable bag folded into your main suitcase, with a luggage tag and small lock. Use this to carry souvenirs home. Also, when traveling with a companion we recommend “cross-packing,” i.e., pack 2 outfits of your clothing in your companion’s luggage and vice-versa, in case one bag is delayed.
Locks
To reduce the risk of damage to your luggage, either do not lock your bags when checking in for flights that originate in the U.S. or use TSA-approved locks. (These are locks that TSA screeners can open and relock with a special tool, avoiding damage to your luggage or lock if a physical inspection is required. Look for the words “TSA” or “TSA-approved” on the lock’s packaging.)
Outside of the U.S., we strongly recommend that you lock your luggage as a preventative measure against theft.
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LUGGAGE LIMITATIONS
In addition to the international flights, you will also take domestic flights within the region on your main trip. The luggage limits on these flights are less than the average allowance for international flights. This means that even if your international airline offers a larger weight limit, you will need to pack according to the lower restrictions, as indicated in the following chart.
Number of Type of Luggage Weight Special Size Restrictions? Pieces Restrictions Main trip One checked Duffle bag or soft- Checked Standard airline size: checked only bag and one sided luggage. Please luggage: luggage should not exceed 62 carry-on per do not bring a hard- 33 lbs total linear inches (length+ width + person sided (clamshell) Carry-on: depth) and carry-on should not suitcase. 11 lbs total exceed 45 linear inches Pre-trip Same Same Same Standard size for checked extension to luggage; airline limits carry-on Bhutan size to 17.5 x 13.5 x 8 inches All other Same Same Same Same as the main trip extensions Remarks and Suggestions The “Dirty Harry” luggage rule: The limits in the chart above are based on the airlines’ published restrictions. The enforcement of luggage limits is a matter of airline corporate policy. It may not be consistent in all situations and may include random spot checks, especially for carry-on luggage. Airline penalties and fines, however, will probably be immediate when and if enforcement occurs. Before you choose to go above the airline’s published restrictions, you should first ask: Do I feel lucky? (And if the answer is yes, then you should accept that you might be charged a fee by the airlines.)
Carry-on size for Bhutan: Frequently the aircraft for our flight to Bhutan is a small plane with no room for American-sized carry-ons. Unfortunately, there is no way to predict which aircraft will be used. (The airline doesn’t tell us in advance.) But as long as you follow the airline's own rule of using a smaller bag, you will be fine no matter what aircraft is used. Of course, this means that you might bring the small bag and then have a larger plane after all. But the point is to be prepared no matter what. You are allowed to bring a personal item, such as a lady's purse, an overcoat, an umbrella, or a walking stick in addition to your carry-on. TIP : Our regional staff suggests bringing your coat or jacket on the plane for the flight to Bhutan and wearing your sturdiest shoes. That way you have these items even if your checked luggage is lost or delayed, but they don’t take up room in your small carry-on.
Checked luggage for Bhutan: The airline is generally strict about enforcing weight limitations. If you are caught bringing excess baggage it will cost you at least $4 for each additional kilogram (2.2 pounds). There are no “left luggage” facilities for you to leave extra luggage behind during your extension.
Remember, these limits can change. If the airline(s) notifies us of any changes, we will include an update in your Final Documents booklet. You should also confirm both luggage restrictions and luggage fees directly with your U.S./international airline a week or so before your departure . Doing so will keep you up-to-date on any last-minute changes, new security measures, or new fees. Most airlines are now charging fees for checked luggage, even on some international flights. These fees are not included in your trip price; they are payable directly to the airlines. For your convenience, we maintain a list of the toll-free numbers for the most common airlines on our website under the FAQ section.
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Clothing Suggestions
Functional Tips As you will experience a wide range of temperatures and weather conditions, we suggest several layers of clothing. If you like to hand-wash your clothes, look for fabrics that will dry out overnight. You can buy clothing designed especially for travel, with features like wrinkle-resistant fabric or built-in sun protection. You’ll be on your feet a lot during the trip, and walking over some rough and slippery surfaces. The soles of your shoes should offer good traction.
Style Hints Dress on our trip is functional and casual. Your dress should be somewhat conservative, to be respectful of the local culture. Sleeveless tops for ladies are acceptable in the larger cities in India and Nepal, but are not appropriate in the small villages, or in temples, or in Bhutan. We recommend you keep a light jacket, sweater or pashmina with you when going sleeveless, to cover up when necessary. Very short shorts (on men or women) and mini-skirts are considered disrespectful, and will draw unwanted attention.
Since the cow is a sacred animal in the Hindu religion, many Indians do not wear leather. It is OK for you to wear leather in India, and small leather items (belts and wallets) will usually be allowed in Hindu temples. However, temple attendants my ask that you leave large leather items—such as handbags—at the entrance, so consider bringing a cloth or canvas bag instead.
Traveler’s Checklists Did you know that the top two comments travelers have about packing are “I wish I had brought less” and “I wish I had thought to double-check the weather”? In an effort to help you bring less, we offer these lists, which have been compiled from suggestions by Trip Leaders and former travelers. The lists are only jumping-off points—they offer recommendations based on experience, but not requirements. You might also want to refer to the climate charts in this handbook or online weather forecasts before you pack. And finally, remember the Golden Rule of Packing Light—whatever you think you need at first—take half the clothes and twice the money.
Recommended Clothing Checklist ß Shirts: A mixture of short- and long-sleeved shirts in a breathable fabric, like cotton or cotton-blend. Polo shirts are more versatile than T-shirts. Sleeveless shirts are acceptable in India, but not Bhutan. ß Trousers and/or jeans: Comfortable and loose-fitting in a breathable fabric, like cotton or linen. ß Walking shorts: Shorts are generally acceptable in India, but in keeping with the more modest culture, please chose a longer cut (to the knee). Shorts are not allowed in Indian mosques and are not allowed in public places in Bhutan. ß For women–1 or 2 travel skirts: Our female Trip Leaders suggest that, for India, a skirt and shirt is a great basic travel outfit. Shorts and pants are fine too, it is just that a skirt allows for air movement and is convenient when using squat toilets. Female travelers should also consider sports bras, especially for days with long overland transfers—the roads can be bumpy. ß Shoes and socks: Shoes should be comfortable walking or running shoes; a pair of light hiking boots or sturdy walking shoes is recommended for Bhutan. We suggest you bring at least one extra pair of socks to be used as “temple socks,” because wearing shoes of any type are not allowed inside temples. ß Light cotton or wool sweater: The air-conditioning in restaurants and on the bus can be cold.
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ß Wide-brim sun hat or visor for sun protection ß Light rain jacket/windbreaker with hood ß Underwear and sleepwear ß Optional: swimsuit, in case a hotel has a whirlpool or pool
Seasonal Clothing Recommendations:
For fall and winter (November-February in India; September-March in Bhutan): ß A warm jacket, like a Polertec fleece, or a heavy wool sweater ß Turtleneck(s) or scarf ß Warm sleepwear ß Hat and light gloves.
Other Essential Items ß Daily essentials: toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, hairbrush or comb, shaving items, deodorant, etc. Our hotels will provide the basics like soap and shampoo, but if you are sensitive to fragrances or new products, you may wish to bring your preferred brands. Most hotels do not provide a washcloth, so you may wish to pack one. ß Spare eyeglasses/contact lens ß Sunglasses ß Sunscreen, SPF 15 or stronger ß Insect repellent with DEET ß Light folding umbrella, for rain and sun protection ß Moisturizer and chapstick ß Pocket-size tissues—most public restrooms will be out of toilet paper. (And out of soap, so bring some anti-bacterial hand lotion too.) ß Anti-bacterial hand lotion ß Packets of moist towelettes. These are useful after visits that involve removing your shoes, or can be used to freshen up during a hot day. ß Flashlight, extra batteries/bulb. A flashlight is highly recommended by our Trip Leaders as power outages are common. (Plus it is useful at the camp.) ß Electrical converter & plug adapter: see “A Word About Electricity” for more details ß Camera gear with extra batteries or battery charger
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Medicines & First Aid Gear ß Your own prescription medicines ß Travel first aid kit: Band-Aids, headache and pain relief, laxatives and anti-diarrhea tablets, something for upset stomach. Maybe a cold remedy, moleskin foot pads, antibiotic cream, or allergy medication. ß An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness ß Optional: A strong prescription pain medication for rare emergency purposes ß Optional: Altitude sickness medication (if you are taking the extension to Bhutan) ß Optional: Anti-malarial medication—discuss with your doctor)
Optional Gear (These are items that other travelers have suggested might be useful—not requirements. The extra spaces at the end are for you to add whatever you don’t want to forget.) ß Travel alarm ß Lightweight binoculars ß Hanging toiletry bag with hook to hang on doorknob, and pockets to organize items ß Basic sewing kit ß Hand-wash laundry soap such as Woolite ß Hair dryer ß Reading materials ß Travel journal/note pad ß Home address book ß Photos, small gift for Home-Hosted Visit ß Phrase book ß Folding walking staff, sold in most camping stores ß Pocket-size calculator for exchange rates ß Inflatable seat cushion for bumpy roads ß Eye drops, to combat dusty conditions ß Bandana (can use as a hanky; doubles as a face mask on the dusty roads in the National Park). If you have respiratory problems or powerful allergies, a face mask might be useful. ß A few snacks to fill the gap between breakfast and lunch ß Packets of powdered sports drink mix with electrolytes (helps with hydration). ß ______ß ______ß ______ß ______
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A Word About Electricity When traveling overseas, there are a few differences to keep in mind about electricity. First, the voltage is usually different. Second, the plugs might not be the same shape. Lastly, the availability of power can vary.
Voltage Electricity in India, Bhutan, and Nepal is 220-230 volts. In the U.S. it is 110 volts. Most of the things a traveler will want to plug in—battery chargers, MP3 players, tablets or computers—can run off both 110 and 220. But you should check the item or the owner’s guide first to confirm this before you plug it in. If you have something that needs 110 volts—like a shaver or a hairdryer—you can bring a transformer to change the current. (But transformers tend to burn out, so it might be better to leave whatever it is at home.)
Plugs The shape of plugs will vary from country to country, and sometimes even within a country depending on when that building was built. Different plug shapes are named by letters of the alphabet—Type A, Type B, and so on. Standard U.S. plugs are Type A and Type B. Here is the list of plugs for the countries on this trip:
• Overall, C and D are the most common plugs in this region. • India: C or D • Bhutan: D or G; sometimes F but this is rare • Nepal: C or D
Type F is not common; see TIP.
TIP: In Bhutan, you may occasionally find a Type F socket, but Type F plugs are not always easy to find in U.S. stores. Luckily, the Type C plug will fit into Type F sockets.
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To plug something from the U.S. into a C, D, G or F socket you’ll need an adapter that fits between the plug and the socket. Because there are many different types of plugs in this region, it may be easier to purchase an all-in-one, universal adapter/converter combo. Versatile and lightweight, these can usually be found at your local electronics goods or hardware stores. Sometimes you can buy them at large retailers too, like Target or Walmart. If you forget to bring an adapter, you might also find them for sale at the airport when you arrive at your destination.
Availability
A constant electricity supply cannot be guaranteed during overnight stays. In some places, the electricity may be supplied by a generator, and lighting may not be as bright as you are used to. Travelers dependent on electricity supply (as in the case of those with sleep apnea) should consider a different adventure or ensure their apparatus has back-up battery power.
TIP : Hotels in Bhutan do not feature hair dryers, but the hotel in Kathmandu, Nepal does. In India, some hotels will feature hair dryers, but not all.
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6. Learn About Your Destination We encourage you to learn about India before your trip. The ancient and contemporary cultures of this region are rich and complex. Even a small amount of background reading can help you make sense of the kaleidoscope of facts and impressions that will come your way. Plus, having some knowledge in advance can complement what you can learn from your expert Trip Leader. India at a Glance Facts & Figures • Area: 1,269,219 square miles • Capital: New Delhi • Languages: Hindi is the official language; English is also spoken. • Ethnicity: Indo-Aryan 72%, Dravidian 25%, Other 3% • Location: India is bordered by Burma, Pakistan, the Arabian Sea, and the Bay of Bengal. • Geography: India consists of plateau and rolling plains, desert to the west, and the Himalaya Mountains in the north. • Population: 1,236,344,631 (July 2014 estimate) • Religion: Hindu 80.5%, Muslim 13.4%, Christian 2.3%, Sikh 1.9%, other 1.9% • Time Zone: Indian is on Standard Time, 9.5 hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 3:30pm in New Delhi.
Historical Overview
Early History There is evidence of a civilized, urban society in the Indus Valley dating back over 5,000 years. There is speculation, based on fossil remains, that India’s first inhabitants were from the same racial group as the Aborigines of Australia. Unfortunately, the writing system from this time has never been translated, and little is known about India’s earliest inhabitants. However, archaeologists have found working wells and bathrooms, sophisticated drainage systems, jewelry, brass items and cooking utensils, indicating that the society was remarkably advanced.
Around 1500 BC, a group of Aryan peoples invaded India from the North. Over the next 2,000 years, many other groups from both Africa and Asia migrated into the area. Intermarriage between different ethnic groups was so common that it is nearly impossible to determine racial distinctions among the people of India today with any degree of certainty. The Aryans brought with them a religion called Vedism, which was based on a rigid social hierarchy, or caste system. Vedism eventually combined with local religions and evolved into Hinduism.
According to Hinduism, the caste into which one is born depends upon one’s karma—the accumulated good and bad deeds from past lives. Therefore, it is necessary for one to do good works on Earth in order to reach a higher social status in future lives. Hinduism’s rigid caste system, with its emphasis on accepting one’s lot in life, has been the most important social influence in India for over 3,000 years.
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The Age of Dynasties In 321 BC, the warrior Chandragupta united most of North India through military conquest and established the Maurya Dynasty. He instituted a centralized bureaucracy to oversee the administration of government. Until this time, India had been divided into small monarchies and aristocratic republics based on tribal groupings. The third Mauryan king, Asoka, conquered the southern portion of India, uniting the entire continent into one kingdom. Asoka, who was a Buddhist, sought to diminish the influence of Hinduism in India.
Buddhism originated in India around 500 BC. The philosopher Siddhartha Gautama taught that earthly suffering could be eliminated by overcoming personal desire in reaching a state of blissful Nirvana, or “no-self.” He became known throughout India as the Buddha, or enlightened one; and his teachings, collectively called “Buddhism,” achieved widespread popularity during the reign of Asoka. The influence of Buddhism can still be seen in many of India’s stupas, or shrines, including the Great Stupa at Sanchi.
Maurya kings ruled India for nearly 600 years. However, by the dawn of the fourth century AD, their kingdom had once again split into many small states. In AD 320, a new dynasty, the Guptas, rose to power and reunited India, ushering in a golden age of great achievements in science, literature and the arts. The Gupta Dynasty was a peaceful and prosperous time in which Hinduism flourished and Buddhism all but disappeared from the continent.
The Fall of the Indian Kingdom From approximately 450 AD to 530 AD, a group known as the White Huns periodically attacked, effectively destroying the Indian kingdom. Over the next thousand years, India was repeatedly invaded and conquered by Huns. In 1200, Genghis Khan led a series of successful raids against Punjab, making India the center of the largest land empire in history. Khan let the Muslims maintain a Sultanate in Delhi and allowed them to rule with relative autonomy. However, in 1526, Babur, a descendent of Khan, seized the throne from the Sultan and established the great Mughal Empire, which remained in power until the early 1800s.
During the reign of the Mughals, Indian culture was as creative and brilliant as any in the world. The Mughals adopted the local religion, Islam, and spent a great deal of their ill-gained wealth on constructing magnificent palaces and monuments. The prosperity and strength of this time is evident in India’s great mosques and mausoleums, including the Taj Mahal, constructed under Shah Jahan.
The Age of Colonization In 1498, Vasco de Gama discovered an ocean route around the Cape of Good Hope, beginning a period of bitter struggle between the European powers for supremacy in the Indian trade. By 1751, the French had taken control of much of India through military force. The British mounted a successful military campaign to overthrow the French and establish a monopoly on trade for the British East India Company. Although Britain did not declare India a colony, the British East India Company came to be the dominant political force in the country by using Indian soldiers to assert its will over the government and other European trade companies.
By the 1850s, Indian nationalists had grown wary of this arrangement. They fomented a revolt among the Indian soldiers employed by the company. In 1857, the soldiers struck out, effectively ending the 100- year monopoly of the British East India Company. The move backfired, however, because Britain took control of the administration of the Indian government and named Queen Victoria Empress of India in 1877.
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Despite many advances under British rule, including the construction of railways, canals, irrigation works, schools, mills and factories, Indian resentment continued to increase, and nationalism had reached a fever pitch by the onset of the First World War. Led by Mohandas Gandhi, Indian nationalists gained control of Congress and began a campaign of non-cooperation with the British.
The Dawn of Independence During World War II, the Indian Congress agreed to serve with the British only one condition—that India would be granted independence at the close of the war. The British rejected the proposal. Nevertheless, 2.5 million Indians did fight with Britain against the Japanese; what’s more, the British granted independence to India in 1947.
The new nation was marred by internal rioting between Hindus and Muslims. Gandhi’s attempts to end the strife and create unity were cut short when he was shot dead in 1948. Remarkably, his death brought the country together, thereby ending the violence and leading to reconciliation between the warring religious groups.
Under the rule of Prime Minister Nehru, India undertook a policy of non-alignment, hoping to maintain peaceful relations with all nations. After Nehru’s death, his daughter, Indira Gandhi, was elected prime minister. The first decade of Gandhi’s time in office was highly controversial. She censored the press, had thousands of political opponents arrested and sponsored a program of forced sterilization. In the late ‘70s, Gandhi was removed from office and eventually imprisoned. Amazingly, she was re-elected shortly after her release from prison in 1980, touching off a period of widespread civil unrest as small states attempted to break away from the country. Indira Gandhi was assassinated in 1984, and India’s internal turmoil continued throughout the decade that followed.
Bhutan at a Glance – optional extension Facts & Figures • Area: 14,824 sqare miles • Capital : Thimphu • Languages: Dzongkha is the official language; varcious Tibetan and Nepalese dialects are also spoken. • Location: Bhutan is bordered by China (the Tibet Autonomous Region) and India. • Geography: Bhutan lies between the Tibet Autonomous Region to the north and the Indian states of Sikkim, West Bengal, Assam and Arunachal Pradesh to the west and south. The Himalayas dominate the north of the country, and blizzards generated in the north each winter often drift southward into the central highlands. The highlands are the most populous part of the nation; and are characterised by their many rivers, isolated valleys, and the expansive forests that cover seventy percent of the nation. • Population: 733,643 (July 2014 estimate) • Religion: Lamaistic Buddhist 75%, Indian- and Nepalese–influenced Hinduism 25% • Time Zone: Bhutan is on Bhutan Time, eleven hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 5pm in Thimphu.
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Historical Overview
Pre-20th-Century History Bhutan’s early history is shrouded in obscurity. Archaeological findings suggest that Bhutan was inhabited as early as 2000 BC, but little is known until the introduction of Buddhism in the eighth or ninth century. Padmasambhava, known as Guru Rimpoche, is often credited for bringing Tantric Buddhism from India to Bhutan in the eighth century. He established a number of temples and monasteries including the famous Taktshang monastery built high on a cliff face above the Paro valley. Later, as a result of turmoil in Tibet in the ninth century, many Tibetan monks fled to Bhutan—increasing the religion’s influence there.
Until the early 1600s, Bhutan was a patchwork of small warring fiefdoms until unified by the Tibetan lama and military leader Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. Escaping political foes in Tibet, he arrived in Bhutan in 1616 and soon established himself as the religious ruler of Bhutan. He initiated a program of fortification and military consolidation, overseeing the construction of impressive dzongs or fortresses such as Simtokha Dzong, which guards the entrance to Thimphu valley. He repelled attacks from rival lamas and Tibetan forces and transformed the southern valleys into a unified country called Druk Yul (Land of the Dragon). An insightful leader, he used cultural symbols as well as military force to establish a Bhutanese national identity, including the initiation of a number of sacred dances to be performed in the annual tsechu festivals.
Shabdrung also established the dual system of government by which control of the country was shared between a spiritual leader (the Je Khempo) and an administrative leader (the Desi Druk), a policy that exists in modified form to this day. Shabdrung's death in 1705 was followed by 200 years of internal conflict and political infighting.
Modern History Instability lasted until 1907, when Ugyen Wangchuck was elected, by a unanimous vote of Bhutan's chiefs and principal lamas, as hereditary ruler of Bhutan. Thus the first king was crowned and the Wangchuck Dynasty began. In 1910, King Ugyen and the British signed the Treaty of Punakha which provided that British India would not interfere in the internal affairs of Bhutan if the country accepted Britain’s advice in its external relations. When Ugyen Wangchuck died in 1926, his son Jigme Wangchuck became the next ruler, and when India gained independence in 1947, Bhutan recognized the new Indian Government as an independent country.
In 1949, India and Bhutan signed the Treaty of Peace and Friendship, which provided that India would not interfere in Bhutan's internal affairs but would be guided by India in its foreign policy. Wangchuck was succeeded in 1952 by his son Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, and Bhutan began to slowly emerge from its isolation and began a program of planned development. In 1958 Bhutan abolished slavery. When China took control of Tibet, Bhutan's policy of total isolation lost its appeal and the country was formally admitted to the United Nations in 1971.
Jigme Singye Wangchuck, who took the throne from 1974-2005 after his father’s death, continued the policy of controlled development with particular focus on the preservation of the environment and Bhutan's unique culture. Among his ideals are economic self-reliance and what he nicknamed “Gross National Happiness”. He emphasized modern education, decentralization of governance, the development of hydroelectricity and tourism and improvements in rural developments.
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His coronation at age 16 on June 2, 1974 was the first time the international media were allowed to enter the kingdom, and marked Bhutan's debut appearance on the world stage. The first group of paying tourists arrived later that year. Satisfied with Bhutan's transitioning democratization process, Jigme Singye Wangchuck abdicated in December 2005 rather than wait until the promulgation of the new constitution in 2008. His son, Jigme Khesar Namgvel Wangchuck, became king upon his abdication. In October 2011, the king married one of his subjects, student Jetsun Pema.
Nepal at a Glance—optional extension Facts & Figures • Area: 56,827 square miles • Capital : Kathmandu • Languages : Nepali is the official language; Maithali, Bhojpuri, Tharu, Tamang, Newar, Magar, and Awadhi are also spoken. • Ethnicity: Chhettri 16.6%, Brahman-Hill 12.2%, Magar 7.1%, Tharu 6.6 %, Tamang 5.8%, Newar 5%, Muslim 4.4%, Kami 4.8%, Yadav 4%, other 33.5% • Location: Nepal is bordered by China and India. • Geography: Nepal is typically thought of as mountainous. But it is actually home to widely diverse landscapes and ecosystems. There are three geographic areas or belts running from west to east: mountain, hill, and plains. • Population: 30, 986,975 (July 2014 estimate) • Religions: Hindu 80.6%, Buddhist 10.7%, Muslim 4.2%, Kirant 3.6%, other .9% • Time Zone : Nepal is on Standard Time, 9.75 hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 3:45pm in New Delhi.
Historical Overview
Pre-20th-Century History We know very little about the Kiratis, the first recorded people of Nepal. Highly skilled sheep farmers with a fondness for knives, they arrived in the seventh or eighth century BC from the east. Their beliefs were a combination of Hindu and Tantric.
Soon, Buddhism was introduced to the region and it enjoyed a long history here. But the teachings of Siddhartha Gautama, the historical Buddha and the prince of the kingdom of Kapilavastu, lost favor by 200 AD when the Licchavis of northern India overthrew the Kirati king and re-instated Hinduism and its caste system. With this conquest, a golden age of Nepali art and architecture began.
The Licchavi era ended by 879 AD when the Thakuri dynasty came to power. But their rule was marked by instability and invasion. The Kathmandu Valley's strategic location, however, ensured the kingdom's survival. Several hundred years passed before the Thakuri king, Arideva, founded the Malla Dynasty, which heralded another creative burst of Nepali cultural expression. Earthquakes, invasions and feuding between Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur couldn’t thwart the dynasty’s growth and it reached its peak in the 15th century under Yaksha Malla.
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Malla’s prosperity was being watched by the Gurkhas in the nearby western city-state of Gorkha. Their leader Prithvi Narayan Shah led his people to conquer the Kathmandu Valley, and fighting lasted for 27 years. They were finally victorious in 1768, and relocated their capital to Kathmandu. For the next 24 years, the Gurkhas expanded their power with an army that seemingly could not be conquered. Their campaign ended quickly in 1792 when faced with Tibet’s troops. (Many militaries today employ descendants of the Gurkhas, including the British Army.)
As Britain gained power in India in the early 1800s, they sought control of the Terai, a strip of land at the base of the Himalayas. The British forced Nepal to sign the 1816 Sugauli Treaty, which surrendered Sikkim, today a small independent Indian state, and most of Terai. Some of this land was returned to Nepal after they helped the British subdue the 1857 Indian Mutiny.
And so the Shah’s dynasty maintained its rule until 1846, when Jung Bahadur overthrew the leader with a violent takeover that was so bloody it came to be known as the Kot Massacre. He named himself Rana, considered a more ennobled title, and prime minister for life—and decreed that his title would be hereditary. Through World War II, the Ranas savored their lavish Kathmandu palaces, while the Nepalese barely survived in horrid conditions. The Ranas sealed Nepal’s borders, and the country faded away, eventually taking on a mythic image likened to Shangri-la.
Modern History British support was critical to Rana's regime. So after the former withdrew from India after World War II, opposition toward their rule grew. India engaged them in negotiation, King Tribhuvan was crowned, and a government was formed that included the Rana alongside the newly formed Nepali Congress Party. After 100 years, Nepal’s borders were re-opened.
But harmony would not last. Tribhuvan's son, King Mahendra, demanded that the elected cabinet be arrested and he wrested control of the government. Favoritism and corruption continued even into the next generation with Mahendra’s son. After a long period of uprisings, punctuated by hundreds dead, King Birendra gave in, disassembled his cabinet, and even requested that the opposition form an interim government.
The transition to democracy was slow. It wasn’t until a 1991 election that the Nepali Congress Party and the Communist Party of Nepal shared most of the votes. Still, Nepal’s citizens remained unsettled. A general strike in 1992 led to several deaths and another election in 1994. Still, the government could not resolve the disputes bureaucratically, even by forming a tripartite coalition. In 1996, the Communist Party of Nepal declared a “people's war.”
Five years later, in a power play that shocked the world and could have been torn from the pages of Shakespeare, Crown Prince Dipendra massacred the royal family, an attack that left him in a coma. But Nepalese leadership didn’t hear this brutal wake-up call to end the turmoil. After Dipendra’s uncle (and the murdered king’s brother), Gyanendra Bir Bikram Shah Dev, became King, his cabinet members came and went while the Maoists made and broke truces.
Recent History Nepal's experiment with democracy has faced a long and difficult road. In the years after the massacre, the dream of a democratic government seemed to be nearing an end. In February 2005, King Gyanendra dissolved the elected parliament to gain complete control. After a year of mass strikes and demonstrations, he grudgingly restored the parliament, whereupon its members reduced the king to a mere figurehead.
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On December 24th, 2007 Nepal was formally declared a federal republic by the interim government, which consisted of a coalition of seven different parties—including the Maoists. In the subsequent elections the Maoists won a majority, giving them the leverage to call for the complete abolition of the monarchy. On June 11, 2008, the King left the palace, symbolically signaling the end of the royal Shah lineage that had lasted more than 200 years. The first President of Nepal, Ram Baran Yadav, was sworn in on July 23, 2008.
Over the next few years, President Yadav would oversee several political changes that saw the Maoists loose their majority, be shut out of the government, and maneuver politically in order to return. From 2008 to the start of 2012, Nepal has seen four different Prime Ministers take office. (Nepal has both a President, who is the head of state, and a Prime Minister, who is the head of the government. It’s similar to the British system, but instead of having a royal and a PM, Nepal has a President and a PM.) Even today, Nepal’s political system is working to create a compromise between the Maoists and the various other parties.
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Culture & Points to Know
Accommodations Our hotels are comfortable, but not luxurious. There can be occasional problems with electricity, hot water, and air conditioning. Our desert camp has electricity and hot water, but creature comforts are basic. There is no heating or air conditioning, so in many regards your experience will be the same as in an Indian village. Remember to bring a flashlight. In restaurants, hotels, and at cultural sites, everything works according to a slower sense of time than what you are used to. It’s best to wind down and adjust to the pace and philosophy.
The Finer Points Don’t let the fine points of Indian etiquette worry you; locals know that visitors can’t be expected to know every detail. Much of what is considered polite in India is similar to what’s polite in the U.S. But as a matter of interest, we’ve put together a list of “finer points” that might surprise you:
• When someone hands you something, it is polite to accept it with the right hand. If you are eating with your hands, you should use your right hand to take food or to put it in your mouth. (But being a “lefty” is fine and eating left-handed with cutlery is OK too.) • Indians are generally quiet when they eat, discussing amongst themselves before the food is served or after it is eaten. • Indians do not put their feet on top of a chair or a bed, and would only put books or clothes on the floor if they were being discarded. • Kissing couples and other displays of public affection are frowned upon, but friends of the same gender may walk hand-in-hand or arm-and-arm. • Questions about a person’s caste or if life was better under the British are considered impolite.
Language Barrier You can have some great “conversations” with local people who do not speak English, even if you don’t speak a word of the local language. Indeed, this non-verbal communication can be a highly rewarding part of travel. To break the ice, bring along some family photographs, or a few postcards of your hometown. If you want to meet kids, bring a puppet or other interactive toy. Your Trip Leader can help get the ball rolling.
Your attire is a key part of your non-verbal presentation. Your clothing should show a respect for local tradition. This means you should dress in a relatively modest style. Avoid revealing or tight-fitting outfits.
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Our Vehicles in India, Bhutan, and Nepal In India we travel in a 25-39 seat bus, which has air-conditioning but not a heating system, as heating is not necessary in the warm climate. Buses in India are locally assembled, smaller, and not of the same standard as those used in Europe or elsewhere. The roads are often dusty and very bumpy. Some travelers find an inflatable seat cushion to be valuable on the longer drives. There are no toilet facilities on the bus; however we make convenience stops on a regular basis. Mornings and evenings can become quite cold and you will need a warm sweater or jacket on the bus in the months of November through February.
Bhutan, which we visit during our optional extension, has a colder mountain climate. Although Bhutan's local buses are heated, we recommend that you bring a warm sweater or jacket for the months of September through March.
The extensive road-building program underway in Bhutan can result in sections of the roads being closed. The roads also tend to be somewhat bumpy near sections of road construction. Your Trip Leader will explain the fascinating development of the roads here in this mountain kingdom, where the very first road was constructed as recently as 1960!
In Nepal we travel in 19- to 30-seat buses, which have air-conditioning and heat. Nepal’s roads are generally in good condition but they traverse very mountainous terrain and they can be bumpy or occasionally dusty. Some travelers find an inflatable seat cushion to be valuable on the longer drives. There are no toilet facilities on the bus; however, we make convenience stops on a regular basis.
Taking Photographs The etiquette of photographing most people in India, Nepal, and Bhutan is about the same as it would be on the streets of your hometown. You need permission to take a close-up, but not for a crowd scene. Be especially polite if you want to photograph an older woman. If you want to shoot a great portrait, show interest in your subject, try to have a bit of interaction first. Then use sign language to inquire if a picture is OK. Your Trip Leader can help.
Indians are generally open to having their photo taken, but there are some groups that view it was intrusive or exploitative, and some times when it is seen as intrusive or inappropriate. Generally you should avoid photos of slums, beggars, lepers, holy wanders, or cremations/funerals. Some religious buildings will request that you do not take photos inside. In some places, you will need to pay a small fee to be allowed to use your camera or camcorder. Your Trip Leader will advise you on what is correct.
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Safety & Security Common Sense and Awareness As you travel, exercise the same caution and awareness that you would in a large American city. Don’t be overly nervous or suspicious, but keep your eyes open. There have been thefts in Delhi. If you are venturing out after dark, go with one or two other people.
Carry a one-day supply of cash in your pocket. Carry most of your money, and your passport, in a travel pouch or money belt under your shirt. Replenish your pocket supply when you are in a safe and quiet place, or in our vehicle. Almost all of our hotel rooms provide a complimentary electronic in-closet safe. Please set your personal pin number on the electronic closet safes and utilize them. Do not leave valuable items unattended in your room.
Pickpockets Pickpockets may create a sudden distraction. In any sort of puzzling street situation, try to keep one hand on your money belt. If an encounter with a local turns out to be long and complicated and involves money or your valuables, be very careful. Con artists sometimes target travelers.
Traffic Traffic is horrific throughout India. Exercise extreme caution when attempting to cross any street. Traffic drives on the left here. Both past travelers and tour leaders alike recommend you hire either a taxi or an auto-rickshaw (at a nominal fee) for short-distance transport. In some destinations (as you will soon see), you would be wise to utilize a transport service just to cross the street.
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Communications To ensure you are available during your trip to friends and relatives at home, you will receive two copies of your hotel list, including phone numbers, with your Final Documents. One copy is for you to bring, and one to leave behind with friends or relatives in case they need to contact you during the trip.
How to Dial When calling overseas from the U.S., dial 011 for international exchange, then the country code (indicated by a plus sign: +), and then the number. The country codes on this trip are: +975 for Bhutan, +91 for India, and +977 for Nepal. Phone numbers abroad may not have the same number of digits as U.S. numbers; even numbers within a country can vary depending on the city and if the phone is a land line or cell phone.
Cell Phones If you want to use your cell phone on the trip, check with your phone provider to see if your phone and service will work outside of the U.S. It may turn out to be cheaper to rent an international phone or buy a SIM card onsite. If you want to use a local SIM, just make certain your phone can accept one.
Calling Cards and 1-800 Numbers When calling the U.S. from a foreign country, a prepaid calling card can be useful because it circumvents unexpected charges from the hotel. Calling cards purchased locally are typically the best (less expensive, more likely to work with the local phones, etc.).
One reminder: Do not call U.S. 1-800 numbers outside the continental United States. This can result in costly long distance fees, since 1-800 numbers do not work outside the country.
Internet Cyber cafes are available in big cities and towns throughout India. Most hotels will also offer some sort of Internet service, usually in their business center or lobby. Connections in India are usually slow and may involve repeat logging in.
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7. Additional Resources Suggested Readings We’ve listed a few of our favorite books about the region. Most of these are available in large bookshops (especially those that specialize in travel or international books), by mail order, and from Internet sites.
India: Chasing the Monsoon by Alexander Frater (Nature/Travel). Follow the witty and entertaining author as he chases a typical monsoon across India, explaining how they work and describing their cultural impact.
A Fine Balance by Rohinton Mistry (Fiction). Four strangers are forced to share an apartment in Mumbai during a state of emergency in 1975. With compassionate realism and a sweeping narrative, this magnificent novel captures all the cruelty and corruption, dignity and heroism, of India.
Freedom at Midnight by Dominque Lapierre and Larry Collins (History). Subtitled "The epic drama of India's struggle for Independence," this magisterial history documents the birth of a nation. This book is currently out of print in the U.S., but it is considered a classic, so you are more likely to find it at your local library or online.
Great Monuments of India printed by DK press (Architecture). The subtitle of this volume is “a unique visual guide to India’s historical sites,” and with detailed illustrations, hundreds of color photographs, and useful historical background on 11 of India’s top sites, this volume lives up to that promise.
Heat and Dust by Ruth Prawer-Jhabvala (Fiction). This novel tells the parallel stories of a young Englishwoman backpacking through India in the 1970s, and of her great-aunt Olivia, a bored colonial wife in the 1920s.
In Spite of the Gods: The Rise of Modern India by Edward Luce (Society/Economics). Luce takes an observational approach, using interviews and an antidotes to reveal different patterns in Indian society and economics.
A New History of India or India by Stanley Wolpert (History). These are two great introductions to the subcontinent by a master of the subject. India is more about culture, politics, and environment, while New History summarizes India’s 4,000 years of continental continuity and communal complexity. Both books have been around awhile, so look for updated recent editions. But despite their age, they are both considered key books on the subject, and are often used as textbooks.
India after Gandhi: The History of the World’s Largest Democracy by Ramachandra Guha (History). As the title suggests, this book picks up where many history books leave off. A comprehensive and scholarly work (the author is a professor).
Indian Tales and Legends by J.E.B. Gray (Folktales). This is a book of contrasts: there are simple folk tales about tigers, mice, and tortoises and strange legends of villains, demons, and splendid kings. At the heart of the book is the great Indian epic, the Ramayana , about the marriage of Rama and Sita.
May You be the Mother of a Hundred Sons by Elisabeth Bumiller (Travel Narrative). Rich in detail and empathy, Elisabeth Bumiller illuminates the lives of the many women she knew, and the contradictions she encountered, during her three years in India as a reporter for the Washington Post in the 1990s.
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Maximum City: Bombay Lost and Found by Suketu Mehta (Society). After his first trip back to Bombay (now Mumbai) in 21 years, the author devotes himself to exploring different aspects of the modern city through the lives of people who live there. One word of warning—the book deals frankly with some darker sides of the city.
Midnight's Children by Salman Rushdie (Fiction). Rushdie's comic take on the birth of modern India as mirrored in the story of the narrator, born exactly at the moment of his homeland’s independence.
Nectar in a Sieve by Kamala Markandaya (Fiction). A classic novel from the 1950s about the life of a rural farmwife named Rukmani. While some readers find the poverty and hardships that Rukmani faces sad or depressing, others see an uplifting tale about overcoming suffering.
Slowly Down the Ganges by Eric Newby (Travel Narrative). This is the witty account of a couple’s 1,200-mile voyage down the Ganges River in the 1960s.
Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts (Fictionalized Memoir). Based directly upon the experiences of its author, this is the story of a man who escapes from prison in Australia to arrive in Mumbai, where he works in a first-aid station, and smuggles drugs and guns.
Suitable Boy by Vikram Seth (Fiction). The tale of Lata’s (and her mother’s) attempts to find a suitable husband for Lata. Set in the early 1950s in an India newly independent and struggling through a time of crisis, the book takes us through the richly imagined world of four large extended families. It is often compared to a Charles Dickens novel due to its interwoven cast of characters and sprawling length.
Taj Mahal, Passion and Genius at the Heart of the Moghul Empire by Diana and Michael Preston (History/Architecture). A complete, but easy-to-read, telling of the story behind the building of the Taj Mahal. It also offers a useful background on the Moghul Dynasty.
The God of Small Things by Arundhati Roy (Fiction). A mystery, family saga and tale of innocence lost set in Kerala during the tumult of the 1960s. Winner of the 1997 Booker Prize.
The Great Railway Bazaar by Paul Theroux (Travel Narrative). A fun and fabulous recounting of a 1970s journey across Asia by train. The author starts in London and makes it all the way to Japan before returning via the Trans-Siberian Express.
The Little Book of Hindu Deities by Sanjay Patel (Region). The gods and goddesses are explained in a brief “who’s who” kind of way in this sweet and colorful book. The author was an animator for Pixar studios, so the book features lots of bold, cartoon-like artwork.
The Raj Quartet by Paul Scott (Fiction). Together, these four novels tell the sweeping, epic tale of the transition from British-controlled India to independent India. If tackling four books seems a bit too much, we suggest sticking to the first volume—The Jewel in the Crown.
The White Tiger, A Novel by Aravind Adiga (Fiction). Adiga explores the materialism and technology- induced mania of 21st century, urban India through the tale of Balram Halwa, a village pauper-turned- entrepreneur. It's a transfixing story, both shocking and entertaining, of hard-fought success. Winner of the 2008 Booker Prize.
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Bhutan: Buddhist Scriptures edited by Edward Conze and Thomas Wyatt (Religion). An excellent representative collection of Buddhist texts that reflect the Hinayana and the Mahayana traditions, as well as other developments in Buddhism. Includes several brief selections from one of the most famous biographies of the Buddha, the Buddhacharita .
Bhutan, The Land of Serenity by Matthieu Ricard (Culture). Ricard, a Buddhist monk, photographer, and interpreter, draws on his time in Bhutan over the last 25 years for this intimate cultural portrait.
The Life and Revelations of Pema Lingpa by Sarah Harding (Religion). A translation of the teachings of Pema Lingpa (1450-1521), an important figure in Bhutanese religious history. The book is also full of historical information about Bhutan and the court of King Trisong Detsen.
Beyond the Sky and the Earth by Jamie Zeppa (Travel Narrative). Zeppa's memoir of her two years as a teacher in a remote village details her growing love and commitment to the Bhutanese culture and people. She records her transformation from wide-eyed newcomer to falling in love with a Bhutanese man (with whom she has a child).
Treasures of the Thunder Dragon, A Portrait of Bhutan by Queen Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck (Memoir/Culture). A look at her life and at Bhutanese society by one of Bhutan's four queens (all four are sisters). Her Majesty deftly blends memoir, history, folklore, and travel. This book can be a bit difficult to find in stock at your local bookstore, but usually can be found online.
Nepal: A Kingdom Under Siege: Nepal’s Maoist Insurgency, 1996 to 2004 by Deepak Thapa and Bandita Sijapati (History). A Kingdom Under Siege explains the political and social background of the Maoist insurgency that has embroiled Nepal's government, political parties, police, and army since 1996.
Arresting God in Kathmandu by Samrat Upadhyay (Short Stories). A collection of 9 short stories chronicling life in Nepal, mostly in the capital of Kathmandu, this was written by a Nepali now living in the US and writing in English.
Customs & Etiquette of Nepal by Sunil Kumar Jha (Culture). A guide to understanding the customs and etiquette in traditional Nepalese societies.
From Goddess to Mortal by Rashmilla Shakya, translated by Scott Berry (Memoir) The fascinating story of a former Kumari (living goddess). A long-standing tradition in Nepalese society, the goddess is usually chosen at age 3-5 and serves in her post until puberty, when she is replaced and returned to her family. But what happens then? This book lifts the veil on both the Kumari’s divine life and return to mortal status, as told by the woman who served as Kumari from 1984 to 1991. The book can be hard to find in the U.S., so we suggest looking online or looking for the book in Nepal.
High Adventure by Sir Edmund Hillary (Exploration). A classic of 20th-century mountaineering from the adventurer himself. Originally written after the famous climb, when the details and the danger were still fresh. Look for the 50th anniversary edition, which includes a new preface by the author. For a different take on the same event, why not try Touching My Father's Soul by Jamling Tenzing Norgay? A touching and thoughtful biography written by the son of Tenzing Norgay, the Sherpa guide who reached the summit of Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary.
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The Snow Leopard by Peter Mattiessen (Nature/Travel Narrative). Considered a classic of modern nature writing, this is a vivid memoir of the author’s five-week journey in the Himalayas in search of one of the world’s most elusive big cats.
The Soul of the Rhino and Bones of the Tiger by Hemanta Mishra (Memoir/Nature). Mishra tells of his work to save two of Royal Chitwan National Park’s most endangered animals—the Asian rhino and the tiger.
The Violet Shyness of Their Eyes by Bavara J. Scott (Travel Narrative). A sudden mid-life crisis in 1990 prompted high school social studies teacher Scott to leave Portland, Oregon, for a stint teaching English in Nepal. The brief entries in this diary interweave her experiences in Nepalese society, including the inferior status of Nepali women.
Guidebooks: Your Trip Leader will be happy to provide recommendations and suggestions during the trip, so a guidebook is not a necessity. But a good one can be invaluable as a one-stop reference, so for those travelers who have asked for suggestions, we offer these guidelines. Since different guidebook series each have their own target audience and structure, it is well worth your time to browse your local library or bookstore to find the one(s) you like best. To get you started, here is some general information on the most popular series:
Culture Smart! – Focuses on local customs and etiquette instead of sights, dining, etc. DK Eyewitness – Innovative visuals make these books easy to use and a nice souvenir once the trip is over. The focus is primarily on the sights and activities. Fodor’s – A classic guidebook with strong information on activities, shopping, and dining. Good mix of upscale recommendations and budget suggestions. Frommer’s – A comprehensive guide series that is known for its restaurant recommendations. Insight – Offers more information on history and culture than usual, nice visuals, good maps. Lonely Planet – Practical guides geared towards a more adventurous traveler on a budget. National Geographic – From the same company that publishes the magazine. Excellent photographs, good information on history, nature, and culture. Rough Guides –For the independent traveler on a budget. Particularly known for their maps.
Maps: Most hotels will provide maps free of charge at the reception desk or in your room. These maps are usually sufficient for our travelers, but if you plan on any independent exploration, you may wish to consider purchasing a map before your departure. This can be especially useful in a country that doesn’t use the Roman alphabet, as the hotel maps may only be printed in the local language.
Some recommended map series include: Rand McNally international maps (especially the StreetWise series), Insight’s FlexiMaps, and Rough Guide’s destination maps. We suggest that you visit your local bookstore or library to get a better sense of which type of map is best for your needs before making a purchase.
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Suggested Movies Here are few of our favorite movies that are about, or set in, or from the region you’ll be traveling. Most are available at movie rental stores and websites—or even your public library. Sometimes films produced outside of the U.S. may be harder to find, but they are usually available online.
India: A Passage to India starring Peggy Ashcroft, Judy Davis, Alec Guinness, and Victor Banerjee (1984, color). An Indian doctor is accused of a shocking crime by an Englishwoman in 1920s India. Will he be found guilty or acquitted?
The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel starring Judi Dench, Tom Wilkinson, Bill Nighy, Maggie Smith, and Dev Patel (2011, color). An ensemble comedy that follows seven Brits as they take up residence in a retirement home in India that doesn’t quite live up to its name. Each one of the seven deal in some way with culture shock, their own past, and their retirement; in the meantime the Marigold’s young and enthusiastic owner tries to get his struggling business off the ground.
Born into Brothels directed by Zana Briski and Ross Kauffman (2004, color). A stirring and uplifting documentary about a photographer teaching her art to the children of prostitutes in Kolkata’s red light district. The directors are also the founders of the “Kids with Cameras” charity.
Bride and Prejudice starring Aishwarya Rai and Martin Henderson (2004, color). A modern adaptation of the novel Pride and Prejudice , set in India, with musical numbers. Think Bollywood meets Grease meets Jane Austen. It may sound like a strange mix, but the director, Gutinder Chadha, pulls it off nicely. The director’s commentary also serves as a useful introduction to what constitutes Bollywood style.
Gandhi starring Ben Kingsley (1982, color). A biopic about India’s famous leader that won numerous awards, including the Oscars for Best Actor and Best Director, this film skips his early years and focuses on tracing his political development instead.
Monsoon Wedding directed by Mira Nair (2001, color). When a middle-class Punjabi family in Delhi marries off their daughter in an extravagant ceremony, entanglements—romantic, dramatic, and comedic—ensue. The film launched the careers of several of its actors, who are now stars in India.
Slumdog Millionaire directed by Danny Boyle (2008, color). Jamal, who grew up in the slums of Mumbai, is close to winning the Indian version of Who Wants to Be a Millionaire . But how does a young man from such a background know the answers to questions that stumped more educated contestants? At turns sad, funny, romantic, and gritty, Slumdog won 8 Academy Awards, including Best Picture.
The Namesake directed by Mira Nair (2006, color). Tells the story of two first-generation Indian immigrants trying to make a life in New York for their son, and then of the son’s attempt to balance his Indian and American identities.
The Story of India produced by the BBC, distributed in the U.S. by PBS (2007, color). A six-part documentary presented by historian Michael Wood. During the series, Wood travels to some of India’s most significant historical sites, allowing the viewer to see some of modern India, while learning about the country’s history.
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Nepal and Bhutan: Living Goddess directed by Ishbel Whitaker (2007, color). A well-received documentary about the lives of three Kumaris (girls believed to be living goddesses by the Nepalese).
Travellers and Magicians directed by Khyentse Norbu (2003, color). The first feature film shot entirely in Bhutan, this movie features an unusual story-within-a-story plot about a young man on a journey from his village to Bhutan’s capital in the company of a monk. While traveling, the monk recounts a folk tale that ultimately reflects back on young man’s life. In Dzongkha with English subtitles.
Little Buddha directed by Bernardo Bertolucci (1994, color). Shot in the U.S., Nepal, and Bhutan by the director of the Last Emperor , this film follows the story of an American child who just might be the reincarnation of a learned Buddhist monk. Starring Keanu Reeves, Ruocheng Ying, Chris Isaak, and Bridget Fonda.
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Useful Web Sites Tourist information http://www.welcomenepal.com/ Nepal http://www.kingdomofbhutan.com/ Bhutan http://www.incredibleindia.org/ India
Overseas Adventure Travel Store http://www.oatshop.com
International health information: CDC (Centers for Disease Control) http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/
Electric current and plug types http://www.worldstandards.eu/electricity/plugs-and-sockets
Foreign exchange rates http://www.oanda.com/converter/classic
ATM locators http://www.mastercard.com/atm for Cirrus ATMs http://www.visa.com/atmlocator for PLUS ATMs
Travel books http://www.amazon.com http://www.barnesandnoble.com
World weather http://www.intellicast.com http://www.weather.com http://www.wunderground.com
Foreign languages for travelers: basic terms in more than 80 languages http://www.travlang.com/languages
Travel tips: packing light, choosing luggage, etc. http://www.travelite.org
Net café guide: 100s of locations around the globe http://www.cybercafes.com
Transportation Security Administration (TSA): agency that screens luggage in U.S. http://www.tsa.gov
National Passport Information Center (NPIC): for passport information http://www.travel.state.gov
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