OREGON '71 JUN U:1 1978 Y icings andEnclosedSeamSTELIBRARY

A is a piece of fabric used to finish a garmentedge,

t.lflflIaIflOe a rrnknlna frnn anti kane nnan...1 to .a.k at. +ka nnt.kI nfl I liii I U U II W U1 UI I Q LI I I I.tFII I I ings, cuffs, and details such as patch pockets.The facing is usu- ally placed on the inside of the garmentedge where it gives body and sharpness to the edge. Sometimesthe facing is partly folded to the outside, as in a . The seamedge that results from applying a facing is an enclosed . Afacing is generally :TUANT made of the same fabric as the garment, but wherethe garment smoother EGON fabric is bulky or rough textured, a lighter weight or acing design, a fabric of a .ECTION fabric may be used. As part of the garment different color or texture may be used for the facing. A well-finished facing has a sharp, clean, evenedge enclos- ing the seam, and a smooth, flat surface. If there are corners,they should match exactly. To help you achieve a sharpedge and smooth surface, an should be used betweenthe facing and the garment.

There are three types of or fitted facings, extended shaped or fitted e separateshapedor fitted facings are o'Thq u c tion or and cut to match the edges of thegarmdñ s Shaped facings are used to finish the front and backopenings around the , sleeveless, armhole edges andthe underside of shaped collars, cuffs, and similar details.

Anextended shapedorfittedfacing is essentially a shaped facing that is cut in one piece with the garment sectionand is N\acing folded back along the garment edge. Extended facings are usedto finish the front and back openings and the underside ofstraight collars and cuffs. The instructions for shaped or fittedfacings in this publication apply to both separate and extended facings.

A bias facing is a bias strip of fabric that can beshaped to gently curved edges such as , open ,and sleeveless armholes. A bias facing may be used on garments ofsheer or bulky fabrics because this facing is narrower,detracts less, and adds less bulk than a shaped or fitted facing. The biasfacing .may be more difficult, however, to lay flat if the edge is verycurved. Bias facing EC 944 Oregon State University ExtensionService April 1978 Preparing the garment Since you may be working with a curved edge, it isimportant to support the direction and prevent the fabricfrom stretch- ing or changing shape in theseam area by doingdirectional stay- St itching.Stay-stitching is a row of regular length machine - ing placed just inside the seamline toprevent it from changing shape during construction. Stay-stitch immediatelyafter removing the from the fabric sections beforeany further construc- tion. Stitch with the yarn directionor grain, using matching and the same stitch length as will be used for theseams. Locate the stay-stitching just inside theseam allowance (usually 1/2 inch or 1.3 cm from the cut edge if the is 5/8 inchor 1.5 cm). Stay-stitch through a single layer of fabric.If interfacing is used, stay-stitch both fabrics atonce. Stitch with the yarn direc- tion and change direction of stitching whenevernecessary.

Stay-stitchingis just as important to prevent knits from stretching. After stay-stitching, lay the patternon top of the fabric to determine whether the size and shapeare exactly the same as the pattern, If the knit has stretched, drawup the stay-stitching gently with a at 1 to 2 inch (2.5 to 5 cm) intervalsuntil the fabric matches the pattern. Interfacing supports and reinforces theshape of the edge, giving a sharp and smooth surface. Interfacingis applied to the garment edge before stay-stitching or beforethe facing is applied. The type of interfacing is determined bythe garment fabric and must have the same care requirements asthe garment fabric. It should give support and body to the garmentfabric without over- powering it or making it appear stiff and bulky. If a fusible interfacing is used, be sure to test asmall amount on a scrap of your fabric. Checkthat the fusible interfacing instruc- tions are followed; be sure that the heat, moisture,pressure, and time required are satisfactory for your fabricand that the garment fabric has not been damaged or changed bythe fusible. After pre- paring a sample of the fusible and your fabric,look at the right side of the fabric for ridges, uneven texture, orstiffness. The fol- lowing guidelines will help you determine the useof fusible in- terfaci ng. Apply the fusible interfacing to the outer garmentfabric only if the interfacing does not change the texture orthe look, or cause a ridge. Apply the fusible interfacing to the facingfabric to give a firm edge but maintain a soft look for the garmentand conceal the seam around the edge. Use thisapplication when the facing be- comes the outer layer, as in .The top collar must also be interfaced with fusible to give the lapel andcollar the same amount of firmness. Apply the fusible interfacing to the entire garmentsection to give body and a crisp, tailored look. Apply the fusible interfacing to the entire garmentsection and the facings if the interfacing is verylightweight and more body is needed. Cut the fusible interfacing from the facingpattern piece, but 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) from the outer edge so thatthe interfacing does not extend beyond the completed facing.A may be used to trim the interfacingfor a softened edge. If a will be inserted, trim away the interfacing atthe seamlirie to re- -PIacket seamline duce bulk.

Apply a sew-in interfacing by pinning it tothe wrong side of the garment, matching the shaped edges.Do directional stay- stitching including both the interfacing and garment.If the facing is the extended type, match the straightedge to the fold line. Attach the interfacing edge to the fold linewith a loose or catchstitch, that is invisible on theright side. If the edge will be topstitched, then the stitching willhold the interfacing in place. Apply fusible interfacing as determined fromthe testing pro- cedure. Be sure to lift and lower the iron, do notslide it across the fabric. Preparing the shaped facing Seam together the facing sections ofa unit, for example, the front and back neckline facing piecesor the back neck facing and front extended facing. Trim the seam allowancesto half their width and press open. Finish the outer unnotchededge considering the garment style, weight of fabric, and amount of ravelof the fabric. Use a seam finish such as turned and stitched,pinked and stitched, overcast, plain or multistitch zigzag,bias , or Hong Kong finish.

Fabrics that do not ravel or roll (i.e., firmknits and non- wovens such as leather or suede) do not need J) an edge finish. On sheer and lightweight fabrics that ravel,the turned and stitched ,9 finish is suitable.

Turned and stitched

f.. For medium to heavy weight fabrics the pinkedand stitched, t. overcast, and zigzag stitches are suitable. / ,i/ ;/

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Stitched and pinked

heavy weight fabrics bias bindingor the Hong Kong finish /IOnare suitable for jackets that will not be lined. /

Bias-bound edge Attaching and stitching the shaped facing (1.9cm)(1.9cm) 3/4" 3/4 Generally, especially if you are an inexperienced sewer,the applied. The fol- FACING zipper should be inserted before the facing is wrong side lowing method is recommended for beginning sewerswith light to a medium weight fabrics. Pin the facing to thecorresponding gar- ment section, carefully matching edges,construction marks, and seams. After pinning the facing tothe garment, fold back the ends of the facing, even with the teeth or coil of thezipper. For a cen- tered zipper, the facing will fold back about3/4 inch (1.9 cm) on each side. For a lapped zipper the facing willfold back about 1 inch (2.5 cm) on the left-hand side and 5/8 inch(1.5 cm) on the right-hand side of the garment.

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a a a I a I LAPPED APPLICATION The seam allowance will be stitched, graded,clipped or notched, pressed, and understitched except for the unfaced por- tion on left-hand side of the lapped zipper. This areawill be turned under and hemmed to the top of the zipper tapewhen the facing is fastened in place.

Machine stitch the facing seam in one operation withthe fac- ing on top for better control. Keep the seamallowance even and the stitching line smooth. Use a shorter size stitch toreinforce cor- ners in square facings, starting and stoppingthe shorter size stitch 1/2 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm) each side of the corner.You may pivot the stitching at the corner or use 1 to 2 stitches acrossthe corner LAPPED depending on the sharpness of the angle. APPLICATION

3/4(19cm) If you are more skilled or you are working withmedium or heavy fabric, you may wish to apply the facing beforeinserting the seamline for 1/2 4 zipper. To use this procedure, reinforce the neck inch (1.3 cm) each side of the center back seam.Clip neckline seam allowance along center seamlineto line of reinforcement stitching. Fold cli.,ped ends down to inside of garment.Fold fac- ing seam allowances back along center back seam.Apply facing, CENTERED then insert zipper in the unfaced center back seamallowance. APPLICATION Finishing the enclosedseam allowance Trim out side corners suchas at the top of a front or back neck opening. This will reduce the bulk andpermit the corner to turn more easily.

Grade or layerseam allowances to reduce bulk. Grading means to cut each layer of an enclosed seam toa different width. The shortest seam would be theone closest to the body, the long- est would be toward the outer surface of thegarment. The final width of each seam allowance layeris determined after consider- ing weight, amount of fabric ravel, andthe number of layers.

Clip inward seam allowances to allowthem to spread rather than bunch and roll within theenclosed seam after the facing is turned. Clipping consists of straightcuts through the seam allow- ance to but not through the stay-stitching. Clipeach layer of seam allowance separately, alternating theclips so they are not at the same location. On gentle curves fewer clipsmay be needed, while on sharp curves more frequent clipsare needed.

Notchoutward seam allowances to reduce bulkand allow the edges to squeeze together. Notchingconsists of cutting out small triangular wedges of fabric toward theseam, but not through the stay-stitching. When thereare two or more layers of fabric such as on the outer curveon a lapel or faced pocket, alternate the notches on each layer so they donot leave a sharp double edge.

Pressthe seam flat as it wassewn. Then place the seam, wrong side up over a narrow surface suchas a 's ham, seam roll, or point presser. Theseam will be better hidden if the seam allowance is first pressedopen with the tip of the iron, and all seam allowances pressed toward the facing.Press carefully, checking that no creases occuron the right side of the garment or facing. Understitching prevents the edge of the facingfrom rolling to ne the outside of the garment. All facing seamedges except very short ones, as the ends of a collar, andwhere the stitching would show, as on a lapel, should be understitched,unless the edges will be topstitched. This step is frequentlynot given on instruction guides, but is part of quality construction.Most understitching is machine stitched, but it may be pickstitched byhand on difficult to handle areas (such as faced scallops or endsof a collar). F / Machine understitch from the right side ofthe facing, close to the seam line, through the facing and seamallowances with a reg- ular size machine stitch. For facings withpointed ends such as collars, stop about 1 inch (2.5 cm) short ofthe corner. On lapels, stop about 1 inch (2.5 cm) short of wherethe lapel will be folded to the outside. The understitching maycontinue on the garment side of the lapel where the garmentbecomes the "facing" of the lapel. Press the facing to the inside allowingthe seamline to roll in- side and be hidden. Press, using the tipof the iron, with the facing side up over a tailor's ham or curvedsurface matching up seam lines and center markings. Fasten the facing in place at places where thereis more than one thickness of fabric, such as at seamsand darts. Never com- pletely a facing into place unless it canbe hemmed to an underlayer of fabric such as an underlining.Methods of fastening the facing in place include handstitching(whip-stitching or cross- stitching), machine stitching in the seam groovefrom the right side of the garment, or fusing with small stripsof fusible web be- ) tween the facing and seams of the garment.Be sure to test the fusible web with your garment fabric and followthe fusing instruc- tions for heat, moisture, pressure, and time. Whpstitch Cross-stith

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LAPPED APPLICATION If the facing finishes the end of a seamwhere there is a zip- per, hem the ends of the facing tothe zipper tape. On a lapped zipper in light or medium weight fabric, the unfacedportion of the seam allowance is turned under andhemmed to the top of the zipper tape. Preparing and applying the bias facing A bias facing is a narrow strip of true biascut fabric, folded lengthwise to give a finished edgeon the inside. True bias of woven fabrics or the direction of a knit that has themost stretch is used so that it can be shaped to conformto the curved edge. The sharper the curve to be faced, thenarrower the bias facing must be. Generally, the finished width ofa bias facing is from 1/2 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm). The total width ofthe bias strip must be cut the finished width plus twoseam allowances. The total length must be the length of the seamline (not thecut edge) to be faced plus 2 inches (5 cm) to allow for shaping andfinishing. After cutting the bias strip the widthand length needed, fold the seam allowances to thewrong side and press flat with a steam iron. Shape by pressing the stripto fit the curve being faced, stretching the outer edge and squeezingthe inner edge. If the bias facing will finish an edge witha zipper, insert the zipper into the garment before applying the biasfacing.

Pin the bias facing to the right sideof the garment, keeping the pressed seam line on thegarment seam line. Stitch along the seamline. Grade, clip,press, and understitch, following the in- structions under "Finishing the enclosedseam allowance." Pin the outer edge in place. Slipstitch theedge of the facing to the in- side of the garment. Remove andpress.

Ardis W. Koester Extension and clothing specialist Oregon State University Selected References Coats and Clark.Coats & C/arkSewingBook:Newest Methods A to Z. Western Publishing Company, Inc., 1976. Reader's Digest. Complete Guide to Sewing. TheReader's Digest Association, Inc., 1976. Simplicity. Simplicity SewingBook.Simplicity Pattern Co. Inc., 1975. OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY Extension Service, Oregon State University, Corvallis, Hsnry A. Wadsworth, director. Thispublication was pro- EXTENSIONduced and distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May S and June30, 1914. Extension work is a cooperative program of Oregon State University, th. U. S. Department ofAgriculture, and Oregon counties. SERVICEExtension invites participation in its programs and offers them equallyto all pople, without discrimination.