SaidaSaida al-Adeemal-Adeem Photos by Alissar Ghaddar itit leavesleaves youyou spellboundspellbound

Traces of ’s history are darker surroundings. The jars glisten ahwe to attract attention from passersby. maamoul are displayed in neat rows widespread in the port city of Saida, with reddish-yellow and brownish- He smiles as he elegantly and expertly in one of the sweetshops. The owners with its medieval structures like St. orange hues. Fresh from the hive, the pours the pungent, dark brown drink eagerly offer samples with a welcoming Nicolas Cathedral, the Crusader Sea honey releases a sweet, nourishing and from a special pot called smile to customers. Castle, the Khan al-Franj courtyard and therapeutic perfume that soothes the dallah into a plastic cup. Roasted coffee terrace, the old soap factory, Debbaneh Coming around the first corner, soul. A small spoon of this delectable, beans, ground with a hint of cardamom, This is a traditional and healthy street Fruity Lebanese ice cream that stretches Palace and the traditional Arabic souk. delicious smells from Foul Abou al- sticky substance slides slow and warm make a rich beverage that awakens the food alternative to the hearty and lazy- when you lick it from the cone is a must- Aaz lure you in. Middle Eastern foul down our throats, creating a symphony senses and boosts our energy. inducing dish served in back-street have; the flavors of mango, strawberry, Step back to the 18th century in the mdammas is drenched with of magical nectars with nutty, woody restaurants. It’s served on rectangular chocolate, ashta, blackberry, lemon, and heart of Saida’s Old Town. Its cobbled oil, sprinkled with freshly chopped and floral undertones. Let’s move on. Assorted nuts, grains, rice, beans, dried white plastic plates and is accompanied honeydew juxtapose in an inimitable roads once accommodated donkey- and served with soft bread, okra, herbs, sour and tangy zaatar and with a miniature disposable fork so that combination of tangy and sugary. drawn carts. Today, hundreds of locals tomatoes and pickles of all varieties. Abou Rami is famous across flamboyant spices can be seen in various people can enjoy every bite as they tour and tourists in search of colorful and It’s nearly impossible to resist ordering Lebanon for its massive sandwiches and stalls, their Arabic-inscribed labels and the rest of the souks. Just as you’re about to head toward exotic goods, souvenirs and a friendly a communal bowl of this enticing affordable prices. Moist, crumbly falafel prices per kilogram sticking out of the the exit, one last unexpected surprise atmosphere walk them, following scents breakfast to share with friends and balls are made from a deep-fried paste tops of the sacks. The old souks of Saida The mouthwatering smell of freshly awaits you. It’s a small shop so secluded, that penetrate these streets, evoking family. The fava beans have a lovely, of chickpeas and fava beans with a mix are an ideal location for local vegetable baked baguettes, crunchy kaak from you almost miss it. Fresh gelatin and memories and images of a carefree chewy consistency that pairs perfectly of green and yellow , herbs and merchants to sell their produce and a blue-painted cart, and crispy, yet rose water, hot and bubbling, are and simpler time. Aromas of dozens with the , and lemon juice spices. The outer layer of the falafel ball fishermen to sell fresh fish. Spring fluffy man'ousha invites you to nibble being mixed, stirred and dusted with of restaurants, food stands and Arabic used to season the dish. This small cafe is crisp and firm, but once you bite into , or loz, are piled high on a Lebanon’s varying kinds of bread. Ice powdered sugar and cornflour – the dessert shops galore waft through the also serves Lebanese staples such as it, a soft, grainy cacophony of cumin, rolling wagon; when in season, the fuzzy cold is handy for those who need a makings of raha, or . air. , mshawshe, and zaytun coriander, garlic, parsley and red chili outer layer of the green loz, picked and quick, sweet refreshment. The little pink squares literally melt in msabbah (spicy ). Be sure to leave pepper explodes on your taste buds. eaten straight from the tree, is a crunchy your mouth. Allow them to captivate and guide you room, though, for there is much more to fruit to snack on wherever you are. A day in the souks of Old Saida through the labyrinth-like alleyways. sample throughout the day! As the weight of the food we’ve wouldn’t be complete without a taste of Our tour of the Old Saida Souks is Roam the vaulted stalls and feel at consumed causes drowsiness and Across the way, two carts with steaming scrumptious Lebanese sweets. Coconut brought to a perfect conclusion. Our HOME in the traditional marketplace. Down another side road, the earthy lethargy, a wandering coffee vendor pots of boiled corn and foul beans cookies are presented on a large tray to ancient heritage and soul has been Follow me as I show you what Lebanon colors of the Al-Malek wild honey happens upon us coincidentally. He sprinkled with cumin and mixed with pedestrians. Gooey, warm knefe, sfouf, preserved and kept alive on these cool, tastes like. stand are a pleasant sight amid its clangs together small ceramic fenjen salt and lemon wedges are spotted. and baklawa, and shaded streets.

102 Magazine - DESIGN & GASTRONOMY By Maryam Ghaddar Magazine - DESIGN & GASTRONOMY 103