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The Exeter Road Works by the Same Author

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The Exeter Road Works by the Same Author /v/<; y L?. TUFTS UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES liilliiiiiiiijiiiiliiiiiii.iiliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiMiiiiiiiiiiii 3 9090 014 563 965 WBl>8ter Famfly Library of Veterinary MedlorK Curmning8 School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University 200 Westboro Road North Grafton, MA 015'J6 ' ./ /t^ ki- II THE EXETER ROAD WORKS BY THE SAME AUTHOR THE BRIGHTON ROAD : Old Times and New on a Classic Highway. THE PORTSMOUTH ROAD, and its Tributaries, To-day and in Days of Old. THE DOVER ROAD: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike. THE BATH ROAD : History, Fashion, and Frivolity on an Old Highway. THE GREAT NORTH ROAD: \"ol. I. London to York. [/// the Press. \\. York to Edinburgh. THE EXETER ROAD THE STORY OF THE WEST OF ENGLAND HIGHWAY By CHARLES G. HARPER Author of ' The Brighton Road,' ' The Portsmouth Road, 'The Dover Road,' and 'The Bath Road' Illustrated by the Aiit/ior, and from Old-Thiie Prints and Pictures London: CHAPMAN & HALL, Limited 1899 All rights reserved rH/S, tlie fifth volume in a series of tvorhs picrpo7^ting to tell the Story of the Great Roads, requires hut few forewords; hut occasion may he taken to say that i^erhaps greater care has heen exercised than in precediyig volumes to collect and p>ut on record those anecdotes and floating traditions of the country, which, the gossip of yester- day, ivill he tJie history of to-morrow. These are precisely the things that are neglected hy the County Historiayis at one end of the scale of writers, and tJie compilers of guide-hooks at the other; and it is just hecause this gossip ayid these loccd anecdotes are generally passed hy and often lost that those which are gathered notv ivill hecome more valuahle as time goes on. For the inclusion of these hitherto unconsidered trifles much archceology and much purely guide- ! viii THE EXETER ROAD booh description have been suppressed ; nor for this would it seem- necessary to appear apologetic^ even although local patriotism is a Tnilitant force, and resents anything less than a detailed and favour- able description of every village, interesting or not. How militant parochial patriots may be the ivriter already knoivs. You may criticise the British- Empire and prophesy its doivnfall if you feel that way inclined, and welcome ; but it is the Unpa^'don- able Sin to say that Little Pedlington is anything less than the cleanest, the neatest, and the busiest for its size of all the Siveet Auburns in the land Has not the writer been promised a bad quarter of an hour by the local press, should he revisit Cray- ford, after ivriting of that uncleanly place in the Dover Road ? and have the good folks of Chard still kept the tar and feathers in readiness for him tvho, daring greatly, presumed to say the p>lace tvas so quiet that ivhen the stranger appeared in its streets every head was out of doors and ivindows ? Point of view is everything. The stranger finds a place charming because everything in it is old, and quiet reigns supreme. Quietude and aiitiquity, how eminently desirable and delightful tvhen found, he thinks. Not so the dweller in such a spot. He would welcome as a benefactor any one who woidd rebuild his house in modern style, and tvould behold PREFACE ix ivitli satisfaction the traffic of Cheapside thronging the grass-groivn market-place. No brief is held for such an one in these pages, nor is it likely that the professional antiquary tvill find in them anything not already knotvn to him,. The hook, like all its predecessors, and like those that are to follow it, is intended for those who journey doivn the roads either in person or in imaginatio7i, and to their judgment it is left. In conclusion, let m,e acknowledge the valuable infor- mation ivith regard to Wiltshire afforded me by Cecil Simpson, Esq., than ivhom no one knows the cou7ity better. CHARLES G. HARPEE. Petersham, Surrey, .M October 1899. .. ' .^j^-t:^ o/" Q^k^^HAa/i^rrz^ SEPARATE PLATES 1 The Lioness attacking the Exeter Mail, ' Winter- slow Hut.' {After James Pollard) Frontispiece. 2. The 'Comet' 13 3. The 'Regulator' on Hartford Bridge Flats . 19 ' ' — 4. The Quicksilver Mail : ' Stop, Coachman, I HAVE LOST MY HaT AND WiG 5. The West Country Mails starting from the Gloucester Coffee House, Piccadilly. {After James Pollard) ....... 35 6. The Duke of Wellington's Statue . 39 7. The Wellington Arch and Hyde Park Corner, 1851 41 8. St. George's Hospital, and the Road tg Pimlico, 1780 43 9. Knightsbridge Toll-Gate, 1854 . 45 10. Knightsbridge Barracks Toll-Gate . 49 1 1 Brentford 57 1 2. Hounslow : The Parting of the Ways 67 13. The 'White Hart,' Hook . III THE EXETER ROAD PAGE 14. The Euins of Basing House .... 15- Whitchurch . 16. ' WiNTERSLOw Hut ' J 59 17- Salisbury Cathedral. {After Constable, R.A.) 171 18. View of Salisbury Spire from the Eamparts OF Old Sarum 189 19. Old Sarum. {After Constable, R.A.) 193 20. The Great Snowstorm of 1836; The Exeter 'Telegraph,' assisted by Post-Horses, driving THROUGH THE SnOW-DRIFTS AT AmESBURY. {After James Pollard) . 197 2 1. Stonehenge. {After Turner, R.A.) 201 22. Sunrise at Stonehenge 207 23- Ancient and Modern : Motor Cars at Stone- henge, Easter 1899 213 24. COOMBE BiSSETT . 235 25- The Exeter Road, near 'Woodyates Inn 239 26. Tarrant Hinton . 243 27. Blandford .... 259 28. Town Bridge, Blandford . 263 The 'White Hart,' Dorchester 269 Dorchester .... 277 31- Winterbourne Abbas . 281 32- 'Traveller's Rest' 287 ' ' The Long Reaches of the Exeter Road 301 34- Exeter, from the Dunsford Road 311 ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT Vignette THE EXETER ROAD ———— — — THE ROAD TO EXETER London (Hyde Park Corner) to Kensington St. Mary Abbots li Addison Road ...... -,1 Hammersmith ....... 04 Turnham Green ....... Brentford Star and Garter ...... Town Hall (cross River Brent and Grand Junction Canal) ..... 7 Isleworth (Railway Station) .... ^ Hounslow (Trinity Church) .... 9f (Cross the Old River, a branch of the River Colne). Baber Bridge (cross the New River, a branch of the River Colne) ...... Ilf East Bedfont ....... Staines Bridge (cross River Thames) i6h Egham ........ i8 Virginia Water ' Wheatsheaf '...... Sunningdale Railway Station ...... 22f Bagshot * King's Arms '...... 261 ' Jolly Farmer ' 2 7i THE EXETER ROAD Camberley ——— . THE ROAD TO EXETER Blandford Market Place (cross Eiver Stour) . '04 "NVinterboiune Whitchurch (cross Eiver Winter bourne) ...... io8f Milborne St. Andrews (cross Eiver Milborne) iii^ Piddletown (cross Eiver Piddle) . 115 Troy Town (cross Eiver Frome) . ii6i Dorchester Town Hall 120 Winterbourne Abbas (cross Eiver Winterbomne) 124^ ' Traveller's Eest ' 131? Bridport Market House (cross Eiver Brit) . 134A Chideock ....... IS?! Morecomblake ...... 138! Charmouth (cross Eiver Char) 141^ ' Hunter's Lodge Inn ' Axminster Market Place (cross Eiver Axe) 147 (Cross Eiver Yart). Kilmington i48f Wilmington (cross Eiver Coly) 153 Honiton .... Fenny Bridges (cross Eiver Otter) i59f Fairmile .... 161^ Eockbeare .... 166 Honiton Clyst (cross Eiver Clyst) i68i Heavitree .... 171 Exeter .... 172I THE EXETER ROAD From Hyde Park Corner, wlience it is measured, to the west end of Hounslow town, the Exeter Eoad is identical with the road to Bath. At that point the ways divide. The right-hand road leads to Bath, by way of Maidenhead ; the Exeter Road goes off to the left, through Staines, to Basingstoke, Whitchurch, and Andover ; where, at half a mile beyond that town, there is a choice of routes. The shortest way to Exeter, the ' Queen City of the West,' is by taking the right-hand road at this last point and proceeding thence through Weyhill, Mullen's Pond, Park House, and Amesbury to Deptford Inn, Hindon, Mere, Wincanton, Ilchester, Ilminster, and Honiton. This ' short cut,' which is the hilliest and bleakest of all the bleak and hilly routes to Exeter, is 165 miles, 6 furlons^s in length. Another wav, not much more than 2^ miles longer, is by turning to the left at this fork just outside Andover, and going thence to Salisbury, Shaftesbury, Sherborne, Yeovil, Crewkerne, and Chard, to meet the other route at Honiton ; at which point, in f;ict, all routes met. A B — 2 THE EXETER ROAD third way, over 4^ miles longer than the last, instead of leaving Salisbury for Shaftesbury, turns in a more southerly direction,' and passing through Blandford, Dorchester, Bridport, and Axminster, reaches Exeter by way of the inevitable Honiton in 172 miles, 6 furlongs. It is thus, by whichever way you elect to travel, a far cry to Exeter, even in these days ; whether you go by rail from Waterloo or Paddington \1\\ and 194 miles respectively, in three hours and three- quarters—or whether you cycle, or drive in a motor car, along the road, when the journey may be accom- plished by the stalwart cyclist in a day and a half, and by a swift car in, say, ten hours. But hush ! we are observed, as they say in the melodramas. Let us say fourteen hours, and we shall be safe, and well within the legal limit for motors of twelve miles an hour. Compare these figures with the very finest per- formances of that crack coach of the coaching age, the Exeter ' Telegraph,' going by Amesbury and Ilchester, which, with the perfection of equipment, and the finest teams, eventually cut down the time from seventeen to fourteen hours, and was justly considered the wonder of that era ; and it will immediately be perceived that the century has well earned its reputa- tion for progress. It may be well to give a few particulars of the ' Telegraph ' here before proceeding. It was started in 1826 by Mrs. Nelson, of the 'Bull,' Aldgate, and originally took seventeen hours between Piccadilly and the ' Half Moon,' Exeter.
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