ASIA COaSTAL destinations Time to

If coastal Cambodiashine isn’t yet on your radar, it should be, discovers Meera Dattani

Senses, long-awaited alternatives in 1955 during French colonial to the well-established Song Saa capital is one of times, was Cambodia’s first private island. o southeast Asia’s most likeable beach resort, and while the The region is firmly on the i d

an’t wait for my Asia trip, and easily navigable cities, town invites mixed feelings, radar for Turquoise Holidays. tu S “Cespecially Cambodia,” a riverside is as relaxing beach clean-ups and appealing Asia product manager Rachel e friend tells me. I’m excited for as Vietnam’s Hoi An, and nature stretches a few miles away are Gleave says: “Southern

her; this is a country close to my and adventure lie inland. Then stimulating investment. Cambodia is our number-one ueOra ng heart. But alas, it turns out, as it there are the beaches . . . It’s also the gateway for emerging beach destination in

often does, that ‘Cambodia’ for Southern Cambodia’s Cambodia’s off-shore islands, Asia, in particular . a mov/Bl my friend equals three days of developing coastline and islands such as and Koh Rong Once a backpackers’ haven, Sh a l

frantic Angkor temple-hopping provide an easy post-temple Samloem, where white-sand it’s now heading upmarket er beaches, clear water and pristine and attracting new clientele: in followed by longer beach break that’s often more a nd x stints elsewhere in Asia. affordable than hotfooting it coral reefs are typical of the Gulf ‘flashpackers’ who used to e Angkor aside, Cambodia to Vietnam or Thailand. Its hub of Thailand. The coming months backpack here; big spenders Song Saa remains underrated, yet its town, Sihanoukville, created will also welcome Alila and Six seeking a five-star Private Island PICTURE: Al

54 travelweekly.co.uk 17 August 2017 17 August 2017 travelweekly.co.uk 55 destinations COaSTAL CAMBODIA ASIA

left: Six Senses Krabey Island

right: Wat Leu pagoda, Sihanoukville

experience; and people looking pagoda. Come early evening, offer,” says Robin Ball, director for a new take.” enjoy cocktails and barbecues of Bamboo Travel. “But it’s at Western & Oriental and the Diving, snorkelling along busy Ochheuteal Beach, the top end of the price scale. Inspiring Travel Company are a quieter sunset drink on Now, there are a growing number also seeing increased interest. and beach life are the Serendipity Beach, or the more of affordable three-star resorts “Cambodia bookings rose more main lures, but also laidback vibe along the beaches on Koh Rong and Koh Rong than 50% between 2015 and 2016 jungle hikes, cookery of Otres 1 and 2, a few miles away. Samloem that we can book as and we expect it to continue,” courses and culture Inland, Otres Village is gaining part of a tailor-made package.” says Erica Moore, Far East a reputation for its excellent It’s undeniable that Song Saa, product manager at the Inspiring restaurants and bohemian vibe. off the northeast coast of Koh Travel Company. Mainland day trips include Rong, was a game-changer. “Cambodia attracts a wide the Kbal Chhay Waterfalls, and It remains Cambodia’s most range of travellers: those drawn Samloem. Diving, snorkelling the mangroves, waterways and luxurious accommodation, mixing by cultural wonders such as and beach life are the main secluded beaches of Ream a strong conservation philosophy Angkor Wat; others looking to lures, but visitors can also enjoy National Park. Island-hopping, with high-end accommodation. understand its dark history; and jungle hikes, cookery courses and diving and snorkelling excursions But two new private island now luxury travellers attracted cultural activities. Island-hopping are easy to arrange, as are eco-resorts will be opening to its coastline by Song Saa and, day trips often take in the activities such as horse riding, in 2018 in the Koh Rong soon, Six Senses and Alila.” more rustic Koh Ta Kiev with its quad-biking, cooking courses archipelago: Six Senses Krabey castaway ambience, and several and paddleboarding. Island, an all-villa property w SEE: TREASURE ISLANDS uninhabited islands offer sublime with private plunge pools, It’s the gorgeous islands that grab snorkelling. w STAY: ON THE RISE signature spa, and detox and the imagination, with most resorts Sihanoukville may not be Changes are afoot. For many yoga workshops; and the Alila a speedboat ride or slightly longer the prettiest town but it has its years, luxury private island resort Villas Koh Russey, with a kids’ ferry journey (from 30 to 90 attractions. Downtown, local Song Saa has had the lion’s club, 50 suites, and 13 villas with minutes) away from Sihanoukville. market Psar Leu is a lively spot, share of luxury bookings. “Song butler and chef service. As Kate The largest is Koh Rong, across and you’ll get good views over Saa is a fabulous resort – one to Edwards from Jacada Travel says: the water from smaller Koh Rong the bay from the hilltop Wat Leu rival anything Thailand has to “Cambodia is a destination

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in its own right, and because of that, we’re seeing brands like Alila and Six Senses here, which place an emphasis on opening in beautiful locations. It’s also positive to see Cambodia attracting leaders in sustainable travel.” ise

Luxury aside, good-quality, boutique h c o

options are also on the rise. On Koh ; c Rong, busy Koh Toch town is best avoided – although quieter Long Set Beach, farther up, is a good bet ck BRUCE DV – but Sok San Beach Resort on the o island’s west coast is the top pick,

boasting chalets and villas on a lovely utterst h : s

stretch of beach. South of Koh Rong s is smaller Koh Rong Samloem, home

to a growing number of properties PICTURE along Saracen Beach. sample In Sihanoukville itself, consider product the stylish 1960s art deco-style Dara revamped property includes a new Independence Beach Resort & Spa restaurant and two new pools. on quieter Independence Beach. Rapid development along Four miles east are the beaches of Turquoise Cambodia’s first luxury hotel, it Otres 1 and 2, with quieter Otres 2 Holidays offers was built during the country’s post- the country’s coastline attracting boutique hotels such as 10 nights from independence ‘Golden Era’ and counts is making a complete Naia’s stylish minimalist design, Ren £3,885, with four Jackie Kennedy among its guests, holiday in Cambodia Resort, and Tamu with its fine-dining nights in Siem before the Khmer Rouge occupied it much more viable restaurant. A mile or so inland, Otres Reap and six during their brutal regime in the 1970s. Village’s restaurants, Saturday evening nights in a Jungle An architectural icon once again, the market and artsy vibe are appealing. Pool Villa at Song Previously attracting budget and Saa, including mid-range accommodation, boutique breakfast, three riverside property Sok Sabay and excursions in other luxury bungalow resorts now Siem Reap, and add to the mix. international and domestic flights. w SELL: TAKING OFF turquoise Getting to Cambodia has never been holidays.co.uk easier. Emirates’ new London-Phnom Penh route via Dubai is a great boon, InsideAsia’s and improved roads connect the 12-night Family capital to the coast in three hours. Cambodia Domestic and regional carriers connect itinerary, from Sihanoukville to Siem Reap and other £1,400 excluding hubs, such as Ho Chi Minh City, and international Thai Air’s Bangkok-Sihanoukville flights, is aimed route begins in December. Last year at families also saw a Cambodian railway revival, with children with the Phnom Penh-Sihanoukville aged eight and line (weekends only) reinstated. over. Activities Sihanoukville’s airport is less than half include wildlife an hour from town, where speedboats encounters with whisk guests off to the islands. rescued bears, Agents currently selling Song Saa will welcome the arrival of luxury ziplining and above: bamboo trains. Naia Beach proerties Six Senses and Alila. While The holiday ends Resort the rapid development along the with four nights country’s coastline and islands comes at Sok San Resort left: with mixed blessings, it’s putting Dara Cambodian beach life on the cards in Koh Rong. Independence insideasia Beach Resort – and makes a complete holiday in tours.com & Spa Cambodia much more viable.

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