James H. Hillestad, Member No. 6, Traces the Evolution of the Field

From Second Anglo Boer War Scarlet 1899 to Khaki LEFT Zulu War 1879 But we are jumping ahead of the James H. Hillestad, Member No. 6, demise of the red uniform. In 1846, FOOTNOTES TO HISTORY traces the evolution of the field The Corps of Guides in India, at the orders of their Commanding Officer service uniform. Lieutenant H. B. Lumsden, dyed their white cotton clothes with the Military historian Michael Barthorp noted: juice of a species of palm tree – or, ‘The infantryman, a soldier who fights on foot, has always formed the bulk another version has it that river mud and backbone of any army. The bulk, because he is the cheapest type of soldier to was used. This produced garments maintain; the backbone, because, in the ultimate test of battle, though an enemy of a shade that blended with the dull may be weakened, even irretrievably shaken by the action of horsed or armoured Indian countryside. The new color cavalry and artillery, it is the infantry which must eventually close with the enemy was called ‘khaki,’ from a Persian or and, having overcome their resistance, hold the position so gained … Rightly, the Urdu word meaning ‘dust.’ infantry arm has been called ‘the Queen of Battles’.’ During the Indian Mutiny (1857), he British infantryman’s And so red it was, until the the regiments dyed their white uniform was, for over 200 Battle of Ginniss (1885) in uniforms using a variety of Tyears, distinguished by his the Sudan, when, for the substances, such as coffee, red or scarlet coat. Its origins can last time, the infantry wore curry power, mulberry juice, be traced to the English Civil War, red tunics in battle. This and other natural dyes, which where regiments on both sides wore was during the ill-fated produced a variety of shades red. Britain’s first standing army, The Gordon relief expedition, and some blotchy effects. The New Model Army, was created by where Charles Gordon home authorities were not Oliver Cromwell’s Parliament in 1645 believed that the sight of pleased with the uneven results and wore red clothing. As the years red coats would overawe of the various homemade, non- went on, red came to be recognized the Dervishes. That belief colorfast dyes. Nevertheless, the in Europe as the mark of an English was never put to the test, need was recognized for a color soldier – much in the same way that as the relief force arrived less conspicuous than the red of the the St. George’s cross became a ‘two days too late.’ Zulu War of 1879 and the Egyptian symbol of national identification. Crimean War 1854 Campaign of 1882. Culloden 1742 French & Indian War 1758 Napoleonic War 1815 Indian Mutiny 1857 Egyptian Campaign 1882 22 FOOTNOTES TO HISTORY HEADGEAR The headgear of the British infantryman also went through numer- ous transformations. The list includes mitre caps, bicorn hats, bearskins, bonnets, tall and short shakos, and field service helmets that ranged from dazzling white to a muted khaki (reflecting the need for less ‘advertisement’). The trend toward more practical- ity also was evidenced by the popularity in the Boer War of the Sudan 1898 World War I 1914 Gordon Relief Expedition 1885 ‘colonial’ slouch hat – a lighter and more practical headgear For the Gordon Relief Expedition Khaki was universally approved than the helmet. Similarly, the (1884-1885), the mounted Camel for Foreign Service wear in 1898 and troops at the outbreak of World Corps were clothed in grey serge was worn at the Battle of Omdurman War I modified their headgear. jackets and light brown breeches, that year, and then in the Second The peaked service cap had a with a white sun helmet. In 1884, Anglo Boer War (1899- stout wire ring in the crown a patented dyestuff was developed 1902). to make it ‘smart’ – which that produced a colorfast khaki color also created a fine flat sur- and this became the official active Some lessons face that reflected the sun. service uniform color in India. It was are hard to learn, The increased use also used in the Relief Expedition, however. Though the of aircraft for spotting much to the concern of Queen Scottish regiments made this feature a dan- Victoria who dubbed it ‘a sort of café- wore khaki tunics as gerous one! au-lait shade.’ they went into action against the Boers, The discovery of synthetic dyes they continued their also made it possible for the rank and tradition of sporting file to change their red home-service colorful, conspicuous uniforms for scarlet ones. Scarlet, tartans. The derived from the rare cochineal marksmanship of the insect and therefore very expensive, Boers soon convinced had heretofore been reserved for the Highlanders to adopt The lessons of the Boer War officers’ uniforms. (More information khaki kilt aprons to cover their relegated the full-dress uniform of on cochineal can be found in the tartans, and the Lowland troops to scarlet to ceremonial purposes, and, article ‘Why Red?’ which appeared in forego their tartan trews in favor of at the end of World War I, it was not Volume 2 #17 of The Standard.) khaki trousers. re-issued to the bulk of the Army. The exceptions were the Brigade of Guards and occasionally regimental bands. While the scarlet tunic has largely faded away, the British infantryman will always be remembered for the color he wore.end toward more Jim Hillestad operates under the name “The Toy Soldier Museum.” His museum, containing more than 35,000 figures and a large collection of militaria, is located in the Pocono Mountains of northeastern Pennsylvania. For directions and hours, call him at 570 629-7227, Victorian period officer’s tunic (left) and or visit his new website at WWI officer’s tunic (author’s collection) www.the-toy-soldier.com. 23.

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