NUMBER ONE 1 Contents

Chiang M a i uncovered With Free Photobook NUMBER ONE 1 Contents 6 8 Getting around Devils Delight Chiang Mai 20 12 On Two Wheels Street Eats 4 Budget dining 16 5 Cafe Capers Cat’s Boxes 11 Off the bookshelf 11 What’s on 19 A Traveller’s Life for Me 2 New kid on the block An ice cream may not be the most the latest trendies, which experience obvious introduction to Chiang Mai and conversations with readers but if you hear the tinkling of a bell told me wasn’t what the reader as you wander the streets you’ll wanted. So I decided to produce my know a vendor is nearby, pushing own. their handcart shaded by a big In Chiang Mai Uncovered you umbrella. Stop one and you are in for won’t find any advertising, no high- a Thai treat. You will also be closer end venues, no ‘trendies’ of any to the heart of Chiang Mai than any description, just basic stories about fancy café, restaurant or design shop in and around the city. All restaurant that are all that get publicity in most bills and entrance fees were paid by of the magazines you pick up about myself; any sponsorship or publicity this wonderful city. That isn’t meant you see is a thank you for help given Drop us a line for information to be a criticism, those magazines and no money changed hands. The and to contact the editor bring you some very interesting and magazine is produced purely for my useful articles, but they have to exist pleasure in doing it and, I hope, your on advertising for their survival – pleasure in reading it. and ice cream vendors don’t usually If you enjoy the magazine and have much of a budget for that! would like to receive it regularly, And therein lies the difference with please click on one of the subscrip- Chiang Mai Uncovered. tion links. I hope you will also send As a professional travel writer for it to your friends. I would appreciate many years I was saddened by the any comments and suggestions as to way most magazines became how we can improve future issues. FREE Your copy of reduced to the ‘ten best of..’ formula, Until next time, Eye on Chiang Mai replacing solid destination pieces with Derek Workman 3 Office - space Fast becoming one of my favourite places in Chiang Mai, this café in a sculpture garden doesn’t have a lot of things. It doesn’t have music blaring out, it doesn’t have video or TV screens aggravating the eye, it doesn’t have tables so close to- gether that you can’t hear your friend’s conversation over the noise from the table next door. What it does have is charm, peace and quiet in abundance, which is why it has become one of my unofficial offices. A small but well thought-out menu caters for all hours of the day, whether you are Thai or a westerner who can’t quite get the hang of noodles or grilled fish for breakfast. Good coffee and a selection of teas and other drinks mean that you can while away quite a while sitting in the dappled shade listening to the melodic tinkling of a fountain. Prapokklao Road Soi 2 • Chiang Mai Gate • Chiang Mai Rickety history - Somneuk Kopi Samnuek Thanaphirom, from whom the restaurant Samnuek Kopi takes its name, has been collecting aged things since Noah was a lad so you can be pretty sure that the café that makes up the main part of the building is pretty much like a café would have looked in the middle of last century. The building sits over a small tributary of the River Ping, so get there early and you could find yourself dining on superb local food – proper local food – as the water passes below you. The chalk-board menu is totally in Thai and there is a daily special but there is a hand-written English translation. At about 60 baht a dish, the quality of food is a bargain. On the river road, Chiang Mai to Lamphun, just after the long white wall of Fort Kawila, home to the 7th Infantry Battalion. Opposite an enor- mous tree on your left at a Y-junction beside the Gymkhana Golf Club 4 Cozy by name and nature Cozy Coffee and Bakery is a charming cafe run by equally charming sister and brother duo, May and Cham. Set in lawned gardens, the white-painted clapboard house and chintzy decor makes you think of the sugar-sweet witches house in the fairytale, Hansel and Gretel, but without the evil witch. Their off-site bakery provides top-tasting baked goods, and the extensive menu offers an excellent range of meals and snacks, from filled croissants to spaghettis with various sauces, burgers and a good selection of well-prepared Thai food - there’s a full-page for toast options alone! Cham designs flamboyant dresses for flamboyant occasions and there are usually a few on display at the cafe for ladies to drool over. During quiet times staff can be seen sewing intricate sequin designs onto luscious textiles for Cham’s creations. Cozy Cafe is a delightful place to while away a couple of hours away from the hustle and bustle of Chiang Mai. 5/3 Suriyawong Road • Hai-ya • Chiang Mai (near Chiang Mai Gate) There are so many coffee shops and cafes in Chiang Mai that some owners are resorting to dubious ploys to skim the extra few baht from customers. An increasing number are charging up to twenty baht to charge laptops, a scandalous cost given that the actually cost is around 50 satang, half one baht. Depending where you go, that 20 baht is one- third the cost of your coffee or more and a total rip-off. If you see a sign for charging your laptop go elsewhere. If I order a coffee then notice a sign for charging my laptop (they aren’t always easy to see straight off), I cancel the coffee and tell the staff why. They usually relent. Too many café owners, seeing a downfall in clients because of the over-supply of cafes, are boosting the price. If you want an outrageously expensive coffee go to Un Deux Trois on Charoen Muang, which, at 80 baht for a latte is simply exorbitant. Parisian prices for somewhere across the river. And shame on Wawee, who charge the same for an Americano, basically coffee and hot water, as they do for a latte, which at least has the extra cost of the milk to take into account. For well-priced and pleasing coffee (50 baht) in a pleasant café atmosphere with good music, try Pahkhinai on Rachapakhinai Road, and for an even cheaper deal in a fresh, modern environment, recently opened Juice Street on Wua Lai Road (beside the cow statue) has hot latte at 33 baht, iced for 45. The actual cost of what goes into the cup is minimal but maybe it’s time that proprietors of Chiang Mai’s coffee shops realised that the best way to keep ahead in a flooded market is to look after their customers so they’ll come back instead of ripping them off so they won’t – and they’ll tell their friends why! To receive future issues of Chiang Mai Uncovered, click here. 5 ON THE MOVE Getting Around Chiang Mai I have two modes of transport in Chiang Mai; a good pair of shoes and a bike. oth travel at a speed that suits my leisurely pace does without taking her eyes off the screen. and are perfectly designed to spot people and A brief scout around the market – worth an Bplaces I wouldn’t see if I was skittering by on extended visit – and I flag down a tuk-tuk to take me or in motorised transport, so I set out to try the more to Warorot Market. The tuk-tuk is noisy, windy, rattling usual ways of crossing the city, just so long as it isn’t on and rolling, and takes its name from the noise of the a motorbike, that death-trap on two wheels. engine that chugs it along. The songthaew is the workhorse of local transport, A tuk-tuk is of no use for taking a tourist ride and even though the fleet is reasonably modern, the because it is so low-slung and the canopy keeping the first one I flag down probably came out the same year weather off your head at such a so low pitch that all you as the driver, an ancient wearing a week’s stubble and see is the side of the road and pedestrians legs as you shirt that’s seen better days. He stares vacantly into the wiz along. They may look as if they are built for two but distance when I say ‘University,’ mulling over what I the driver will keep loading adults, kids and shopping could possibly mean. It’s about the biggest building bags until bums are sticking out the side. There’s on a straight road in the direction he’s facing, so I’m probably some sort of legal limit, but in a country pretty sure he can’t miss it. I’m heading for the Saturday where a two-seater motor scooter is the transport for a second-hand market near Payap University but as family of five, who’s going to complain? my Thai doesn’t extend to ‘second-hand market’ and Uncomfortable, rackety and fumey they may be but, I assumed ‘university’ was reasonably universal, I’d like riding a camel, an animal designed by a committee plumped for that.

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