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Skin-Lightening Agents: an Overview of Prescription, Office-Dispensed, and Over-The-Counter Products Chesahna Kindred, MD, MBA; Uchenna Okereke, MD; Valerie D

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Skin-Lightening Agents: an Overview of Prescription, Office-Dispensed, and Over-The-Counter Products Chesahna Kindred, MD, MBA; Uchenna Okereke, MD; Valerie D Review Skin-Lightening Agents: An Overview of Prescription, Office-Dispensed, and Over-the-counter Products Chesahna Kindred, MD, MBA; Uchenna Okereke, MD; Valerie D. Callender, MD Not so long ago, there was a limited number of skin-lightening agents, with hydroquinone (HQ) being the most efficacious. Currently, there are a plethora of agents, some as effective as HQ; some are avail- able over-the-counter (OTC) and others are physician dispensed. The purpose of this article is to provide physicians with an overview of available skin brighteners, including HQ, mequinol, topical retinoids, azelaic acid, arbutin and deoxyarbutin, kojic acid, licorice extract, ascorbic acid, soy, aleosin, niacinamide, and N-acetylglucosamine.COS DERM igmentation disorders can be an issue for hospital-based dermatology faculty practice revealed that all individuals, especially those with skin of dyschromia was among the 5 most common diagnoses Docolor.1,2 Although theNot natural pigmentation observed, Copy3 providing evidence that hyperpigmentation is in patients with skin of color provides many a major concern for darker-skinned racial ethnic groups. advantages such as sun protection and slowed Dermatologists and patients have a number of options Psigns of aging, it also increases susceptibility to hyper- when treating hyperpigmentation. Although some pigmentation, which can have a negative psychological patients may use prescription medications from derma- impact. A study assessing the most common diagnoses in tologists, others seek assistance from over-the-counter patients of various racial and ethnic groups treated at a (OTC) agents manufactured in the Unites States or abroad. Dermatologists face the following challenges: (1) how does one become familiar with the many OTC Dr. Kindred is from Howard University College of Medicine, agents that are available to patients, and (2) how does the Washington, DC. Dr. Okereke is from Meharry Medical College, accessibility to such products impact the treatment regi- Nashville, Tennessee. Dr. Callender is from the Callender men tailored by dermatologists? This review aims to pro- Dermatology and Cosmetic Center, Glenn Dale, Maryland. vide physicians with an overview of prescription agents, Drs. Kindred and Okereke report no conflicts of interest in relation to office-dispensed and OTC agents that patients use for this article. Dr. Callender is a consultant for Allergan, Inc; Galderma self-medicating, complications of long-term use, and rec- Laboratories, LP; Procter & Gamble; Syneron Medical Ltd; and ommendations for management. Valeant Pharmaceuticals International. She also is a speaker for Allergan, Inc; researcher for Bayer; and advisory board member for PRESCRIPTION MEDICATIONS FOR Galderma Laboratories, LP. HYPERPIGMENTATION Correspondence: Valerie D. Callender, MD, 12200 Annapolis Rd, The most common indications for skin-lightening agents Ste 315, Glenn Dale, MD 20769 ([email protected]). include postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and 18 A Supplement to Cutis® • MAY 2013 www.cosderm.com Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2013. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored, or transmitted without the prior written permission of the Publisher. Skin-Lightening ProductS melasma. Other uses by some patients include gen- agent, changing from creamy white to a darker yellow or eral skin lightening, or skin brightening. Prescription brown via oxidation. Efficacy diminishes as the discol- active ingredients used for pigment skin lightening are oration progresses; thus products with off-color change hydroquinone (HQ), mequinol, topical retinoids, and should be immediately discarded.4 In an attempt to azelaic acid.4 increase the skin-lightening potency of prescription for- mulations, some products include penetration enhanc- Hydroquinone ers such as glycolic acid or tretinoin to supplement the Hydroquinone, the gold standard in the treatment of pigment-lightening effect. The addition of microsponges hyperpigmentation for more than 50 years, is a phenolic enhances the timed delivery of HQ to the skin, while the compound that reduces the conversion of dihydroxyphen- addition of sunscreen ingredients prevents UV-induced ylalanine to melanin by inhibiting tyrosinase,5 possibly pigment darkening. by binding to the enzyme or by interaction with copper The impetus to find other agents for the treatment of molecules at the enzyme’s active site.6 This inhibition hyperpigmentation arose out of controversy surrounding leads to distorted melanosome formation, increased mela- the safety of topical agents containing HQ. In 2006, the nosome destruction, and inhibition of DNA and RNA US Food and Drug Administration did not receive the col- synthesis. Hydroquinone has been extensively researched laborative studies on the safety of HQ as requested from and proven efficacious in treating hyperpigmentation. It the pharmaceutical industry and consequently stated it is available in a 2% concentration in OTC formulations would withdraw all 2% OTC HQ preparations and pre- and 3% to 4% concentrations in prescription formula- scription formulations that were not studied as investi- tions. Good to excellent responses have been reported gational new drugs (thus excluding Tri-Luma [Galderma with 2% HQ preparations in 14% to 70% of 12 treated Laboratories, LP]) once currently manufactured supplies patients.7 Hydroquinone concentrations of 3% to 5% are were depleted.8 The final ruling by the US Food and Drug more effective, but irritant dermatitis may occur.5 Table 1 Administration is still pending. lists some prescription medications containing 4% HQ. Sheth and Pandya6 discussed the growing concern of Making COSHQ into a stable preparation is challenging DERM the use of topical OTC HQ preparations, stating that this because of the highly reactive oxidative nature of the apprehension exists largely because of the perceived risks Table 1 DoSelect MedicationsNot Containing Copy4% Hydroquinone Office Product Name Manufacturer Active Ingredient(s) Dispenseda Aclaro PD Innocutis HQ 4% Yes Blanche Neocutis HQ 4% Yes Glytone Clarifying Cream Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique HQ 4% Yes Glytone Clarifying Gel Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique HQ 4% Yes Hydro Q DermAvance Pharmaceuticals Inc HQ 4% Yes Lustra Taro Pharmaceuticals Inc HQ 4% GA No Lustra-AF Taro Pharmaceuticals Inc HQ 4% GA sunscreen No Lustra-Ultra Taro Pharmaceuticals Inc HQ 4% retinol No Nu-Derm Blender Obagi Medical Products, Inc HQ 4% Yes Nu-Derm Clear Obagi Medical Products, Inc HQ 4% Yes Tri-Luma Galderma Laboratories, LP HQ 4% tretinoin 0.05% FA 0.01% No Abbreviations: HQ, hydroquinone; GA, glycolic acid; FA, fluocinolone acetonide. aNot in all states. www.cosderm.com MAY 2013 • A Supplement to Cutis® 19 Copyright Cosmetic Dermatology 2013. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored, or transmitted without the prior written permission of the Publisher. Skin-Lightening ProductS include nail discoloration, conjunctival melanosis, and corneal degeneration.11 There is controversy about the safety of HQ and its association with malignancies. There are several articles that address this specific issue.12-17 There are human case reports implicating HQ as a cause of leukemia. Three cases of chronic occupational exposure to radio- graphic developing solutions containing HQ have been reported.15,16 A 2012 case report described a male with a 16-year occupational exposure to radiographic devel- oping solution (25 g/L) with no other risk factors for leukemia who developed chemically induced myelodys- plasia and acute myeloid leukemia.15 The other report is of 2 Greek female radiation technologists, also with a 16-year history of occupational exposure to HQ, who developed acute myeloid leukemia. The authors hypoth- esized that the chemically induced leukemia originated from exposure to HQ and/or glutaraldehyde.16 Another case from Pakistan described a patient who developed pseudolymphoma 1 month after he used topical HQ 4% for melasma.18 Finally, squamous cell carcinoma has been reported in 2 black women with Fitzpatrick skin type VI who used bleaching compounds for several years. It is unclear at this point if HQ, cortisone-induced immuno- suppression, or another compound was responsible for COS DERM17 the carcinogenesis. In contrast, HQ is found in various foods and no ret- rospective case series, prospective trial, or epidemiologic Exogenous ochronosis from long-term use of hydroquinone therapy. study in the United States has revealed a case of malig- nancy induced by HQ.12-14 Hydroquinone is found at vari- ous concentrations in coffee, tea, wheat cereal, and pears. of therapyDo and the need for clinicalNot data supporting the In an exampleCopy examining the bioavailability and blood approval of currently marketed products. Exogenous levels of topical versus food-derived HQ, one author ochronosis, characterized by asymptomatic hyperpig- offered the analogy that applying 0.5 g of HQ cream 4% mentation, erythema, papules, papulonodules, and gray- in a 12-hour period was “no more dangerous than eat- blue colloid milia on sun-exposed areas of the skin,5 has ing a pear with its skin, a bowl of wheat germ, and a cup been reported in the literature (Figure). This condition of coffee.”12 A 16-year epidemiologic study of almost has been linked to the use of HQ and may not be caused 500 photographic processors “showed no significant by the concentration of HQ in the product but rather the excess mortality, sickness-absence, or cancer incidence.”13 extended use
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