Tour Report 7 – 25 November 2015

The Best of Ethiopia

Naturetrek Tour Report 7 – 25 November 2015

African Fish Eagle Walia Ibex

Ethiopian Wolf White-cheeked Turaco

Report & images compiled by Eric Barnes

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

Tour Participants: Abiy Dagne and Eric Barnes (leaders) with ten Naturetrek clients

Introduction

For most people, Ethiopia won’t be top of their list of places to visit for an enjoyable holiday, nor would they think of it as a wildlife hotspot. Those that take the trip, in my experience, have been universally pleased that they took a leap of faith and travelled to a wildlife paradise full of character and surprises. “Eric, this Lammergeier is far too close for us to photograph” and “Don’t stop, it’s only another Arabian Bustard” were comments from this year’s tour that, perhaps, give some idea of the great views and wealth of wildlife experiences.

Unfortunately, it is unclear how long this situation will last. In the past two years there have been changes relating to uncontrolled grazing in their National Parks. It is clear that the wildlife will suffer severely over the next decade, so if you are thinking of going, go sooner rather than later!

Day 1 Saturday 7th November

In flight to Ethiopia.

Day 2 Sunday 8th November

Our Ethiopian Airline flight touched down as smooth as silk, slightly ahead of schedule. We got our visas, picked up our adjoining clients and headed off for a quick breakfast and wander around the Ghion Hotel. The airport was lively with birds as usual, but the first endemic of the trip was on the roundabout after the exit barrier - four Wattled Ibis!

At Ghion, the circling Yellow-billed Kites were joined by a dark phase Booted Eagle. In our short stop between breakfast and boarding the plane for Bahar Dar we managed to spot Black-winged Lovebird, squabbling Mountain Thrushes, the first of many Speckled Mousebirds, Baglefecht Weaver, Dusky Turtle Dove, Brown- rumped Seedeater and Tacazze Sunbird.

We were soon back at the airport for our connecting flight to Bahar Dar. Andrew and Eric were summoned to the transfer luggage area. They were pleased to discover that their luggage had made it from London, however they had to demonstrate that their tripods were not dangerous weapons! A close fly by Tawny Eagle was some consolation.

The flight to Bahar Dar was short and sweet. Rock Martins were hawking outside the terminal building and a Speckled Pigeon was flying around inside! We went to the Tana Hotel, freshened up quickly, and then had a pleasant fish lunch. Before finishing we were joined by a splendid African Paradise Flycatcher hawking round the light fittings for insects!

Outside we saw a male Scarlet-chested Sunbird, whilst Black-winged Lovebird, Eastern Plantain-Eater and African Citril vied for our attention. It was all too much for some people who had to go and lie down. Meanwhile Andy and Eric continued in the cool breeze of the shaded patio spotting Northern Puffback, a

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juvenile African Harrier Hawk, Red-eyed and Laughing Doves, several African Fish Eagles and lots of flyover Speckled Pigeons. Also a Red-fronted Tinkerbird and Double-toothed Barbets showed prior to our afternoon walk.

At 4.30pm we set off down the road and enjoyed views of Greater Blue-eared Starling, Woodland Kingfisher, a nice male Nubian Woodpecker, Spur-winged and Egyptian Geese, a distant male Pin-tailed Whydah, Northern Red Bishop coming into breeding plumage, Village Indigobird, Common Fiscal, a formation of 23 Great White Pelicans and more African Citrils to name a few. The evening ended with a birdcall.

Day 3 Monday 9th November

Breakfast was served at 6.45am to allow us to make the most use of the day. Our first bird in the garden soon after 6am was an African Fish Eagle. Squacco Heron, Spur-winged Goose and Bruce’s Green Pigeon soon followed. A calling Ethiopian Boubou was reserved for Andy and Eric, but soon after Marion arrived she found a pair of Giant Kingfishers. They were close but unfortunately the light was suboptimal for photographs. Double-toothed Barbets huddled together to catch the morning sun just before breakfast beckoned. It wasn’t long before breakfast was interrupted by a pair of Silver-cheeked Hornbills, and Eastern Plantain-Eaters frequently called for attention.

After breakfast we went on the bus to a boat that was taking us to a monastic island in Lake Tana. Abeabe, a local guide, came with us and gave an informative summary of the local history and geography. The crossing was not punctuated with too many birds, but Great White Pelicans dotted the distant horizon, good numbers of White-winged Terns chose to fish behind the wake of our boat, and Grey-headed and Heuglin’s Gulls loafed around in small numbers. At Intose Iyesus the birds were very tame. Spectacled Weavers were building nests near the footpath, Bruce’s Green Pigeons were close by, and there was no shortage of Red-eyed Doves and Speckled Pigeons. Some of us visited the monastery, whilst others waiting outside spotted an African Paradise Flycatcher hawked around the church walls and a Common Bulbul bludgeoned a large insect on the church steps. Ruppell’s Robin Chat teased us until everyone came back out and then it surrendered.

On our return to the boat we spotted Lemon Dove and more Mountain Thrushes. Back on the boat we headed towards the Zege Peninsular with an unsuccessful search for African Finfoot, although there were many Anhingas, and Reed and White-breasted Cormorants. A pair of African Fish Eagles dwarfed the Yellow-billed Kites, and a pair of Peregrines seemed to use the island as their bird table.

We had more kumquat and coffee at our next stop. Unfortunately a funeral was taking place near a known site for Hyrax. Next we had another guided tour of a monastery. Eric and Andrew stayed outside and spotted White- cheeked Turaco and a pair of Yellow-fronted Parrots.

We returned to the boat and had a quick visit to the source of the Blue Nile where a pair of Giant Kingfishers were our best sighting. By 1pm we were at the Lakeshore Restaurant. After the lunch order was taken Eric and Uschi found a very ambitious mosquito that bothered Uschi. We made a hasty retreat and sort solace with a solitary Pink-backed Pelican. In between courses we saw Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, a flyover Caspian Tern, African Harrier Hawk, and a Ruppell’s Robin Chat was chased towards us by an African Thrush. Julian also saw a Common Sandpiper and Eric a couple of Nubian Woodpeckers between courses. The surroundings were very

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pleasant overlooking the lake. The front of the hotel entertained us after lunch with plenty of Sacred Ibis, squabbling Black Crakes, Red-cheeked Corden Bleu and Bronze Manikins to mention a few.

After lunch we continued our journey to the Blue Nile Falls, stopping at a famous dump to look for scavenging birds. A close Tawny Eagle and two Woolly-necked Storks slowed us down a little. Thankfully the dump was odour free today; perhaps because it had been rather dry lately. Egyptian, Hooded, White-backed and Lappet- faced Vultures were all present. The latter gave us exceptional views by unexpectedly flying straight at us after leaving its tree top perch. As it came over, the light was just right and it was no more than 10-20 metres above our heads. Frame filling views!

We arrived about 4pm and parked the bus by a small group of Red-billed Firefinches and Village Indigobirds. The walk to the Blue Nile Falls was pleasant with a good variety of birds. White-collared Pigeon, Vinaceous Dove, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Western Banded Snake Eagle, Hamerkop, Black-billed Scimiterbill and Mocking Cliff Chat were added to our expanding list.

We returned to our accommodation as the sun set, spotting Cape Rook on the way. A Fruit Bat during the night walk was our first mammal of the trip.

Day 4 Tuesday 10th November

We scheduled a morning walk around the lake and garden at 6.30am to ensure a speedy get away for our trip to Gondar. Good views of White-cheeked Turaco were requested by several, and Abey duly found the birds. The fruiting tree was busy with Black-billed and Double-toothed Barbets, Ethiopian Boubou, Eastern Plantain Eater, Red-billed Firefinch and Red-cheeked Cordon Bleu. The lakeside produced a very close African Harrier Hawk, and a young Variable Sunbird washing itself with dew from the surface of some leaves by the footpath. We battled past the Pied Kingfishers, Ruppell’s Robin Chat, African and Mountain Thrushes and numerous doves to get to breakfast. A Village Weaver was already inside the restaurant looking for scraps!

Our bags were loaded on the bus at 8am and we set off at 8.30am. Silvery-cheeked Hornbills and Yellow-fronted Parrots were in the car park to see us off, and the Woodland Kingfisher remained faithful to the stumps on the entrance road.

We made four stops en route to Gondar. The first produced Long-crested Eagle and Mosque Swallows. The second was at a roadside Vulture fest. Our third stop was on the plains where we saw Red-breasted Wheatear, Bush Petronia, African Quailfinch, Erlanger’s Lark and Ethiopian Cisticola. It was a very rural setting that seemed from another era with farmers ploughing the fertile soil with oxen and flocks of cranes flying over and feeding in the fields. Our final stop before the Four Sisters was at the ‘Thumb of God’ where we saw Augar Buzzard, and provided some basic medical care to a local farmer who had injured his finger. A mammal flashed across the road unexpectedly – it was a Grivet. We all hoped our mammal fortune was being stored up for a jackpot latter - how true that turned out to be!

We arrived at the Four Sisters by 12.30pm and it was as lovely as always. White-cheeked Turaco by the souvenir shop and Black-winged Lovebird in the car park were the birding highlights. There was some ramshackle

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scaffolding on the neighbouring building that made it to the top of several peoples ‘most frightening man-made structures ever made’ list.

A tour of Fasilidas Castle by our local Guide, Hagose was fascinating for those interested in local history. Birding took a back seat, but even then White-collared Pigeons and Lanner Falcons tried to get involved. We moved on to Fasilidas Pool where Ethiopian Orioles gave us the run around. Abey came up trumps by unearthing a Greyish Eagle Owl, which he hadn’t been seen at this site for the last two years. Julian was unlucky in injuring his foot on some spikey grass which speared him around his walking sandals. We then went to another monastery and saw Ruppell’s Vulture, Eastern Grey Woodpecker and Mocking Cliff Chat.

We finally arrived at Hotel Goha at 5.30pm and sorted ourselves out before dinner and the bird call. Eric went to the hotel dump and saw Tawny Eagle, Thick-billed Raven, Yellow-bellied Waxbill and Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher. The evening checklist call was punctuated by entertainment from the Heyes’s.

Day 5 Wednesday 11th November

Goha to the Simien Lodge We met in the car park at 6.30am and headed towards the raptor feeding site (also known as the hotel tip). Mocking Cliff Chats danced along the fence lines, perched Tawny Eagles and Thick-billed Ravens loafed around the tip, and a pair of Ruppell’s Robin Chats noisily announced their presence. We soon discovered some Fire Ants and beat a hasty retreat. As we meandered back towards the hotel garden we were fortunate enough to come across a Guereza Colobus. The hotel garden was buzzing with activity: a solitary Ethiopian Bee-eater, Tacazze and Variable Sunbirds, Greater Blue-eared Starling, Little Rock Thrush, and Tawny Eagles chasing Thick-billed Ravens for scraps of food. Eric’s highlight was being able to add Mocking Cliff Chats to his growing list of birds inside the Restaurant.

Soon it was time to go to the Simien Mountains. We were treated to a low flying Lammergeier (Bearded Vulture) being chased by an Augar Buzzard. African Stonechat, Common Fiscal, Black Saw-wing, Plain Crag Martin, Grassland Pipit and the first of many Groundscaper Thrushes all put in an appearance. We passed through Ethiopian landscape where the land was tilled in a traditional fashion, and stopped briefly to photograph some threshing. We finally got to the Simien Mountain Lodge around 1pm and had a hearty pizza and soup lunch. We then headed out to Gelada country and were soon immersed in an experience of a lifetime. Sitting amongst these gentle grass-eating primates was a real privilege and pleasure. No words can describe it.

Next, we went to a spectacular viewpoint. We then birded on and Lappet-faced and Ruppell’s Vultures went past, Slender-billed Starlings congregated below us, a Yellow-crowned Canary sang, and a Cape Eagle Owl signalled the end of play.

Today we had enjoyed a wonderful mammal experience, which was something that would stay with us forever.

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Day 6 Thursday 12th November

Simien Lodge to Chenneck Groundscaper Thrushes warmed themselves as the sun broke through the early morning mist at the top of the lodge. Small groups of finches and Thekla Larks did not prepare us for the extraordinary day that lay ahead. There is always a worry about being able to get to Chenneck (the Walia Ibex site) because of the road condition. We set off at 8.20am and had quick stops along the way for some Geladas in the early morning light, roadside Erckel’s Francolin and a Lanner Falcon. As we approached Chenneck we were concerned for what was said to be the difficult task of surpassing the last trip’s point blank Walia Ibex sighting. Soon Eshutu, our local guide picked up a roadside Ethiopian Wolf - that was a bonus - and before we knew it, Abey spotted a group of distant Walia Ibex. Soon it was realised that we were watching a pair of hunting wolves - what a treat!

The wolves slinked across the hillside and we drove nearer the distant ibex. They were just above the road and we enjoyed excellent views of a long horned male and about a dozen other individuals. They drifted downhill and looked likely to cross the road. Our group split into two, one climbing the hillside in the hope of better pictures and the other stayed on the road. Suddenly, a challenging male came dashing down the hill and soon the two males were locked in combat. It was an extraordinary sight with the males being pushed on to the road, nearly at our feet. The incredible thud from their head-butting tussle was enough to make our heads hurt. Eventually they stopped although we were unable to determine if there was a clear winner. We watched them at close range till lunch time, by which time Eric was cataplexic.

Lunch was eaten at a wonderful viewpoint with Herbie, Henry and Charlotte, the local Thick-billed Ravens. At one point a Yellow-billed Kite dive-bombed a packed lunch, and a Verreaux’s Eagle flew over. Lammergeiers, Peregrine and Lanners provided additional entertainment. Unstriped Grass Rat and Blick’s Arvicanthus were readily seen, and even a male Gelada wandered passed the bus to seal a wonderful session at Chenneck.

The long trip back was interspersed with heavy rain, and we spotted Ankober Serin, Menilik’s Bush Buck, several Klipspringers and a large troop of quarrelling Geladas. We watched a wide range of fascinating Gelada behaviour. There was much screaming, like something from a local football derby. Much of the squealing was centred on a large wounded male with a deep puncture mark to its buttock/upper thigh area. It was clearly fresh with blood staining its fur, and there were frequent interactions with another similarly sized male. This sparring went on for over 30 minutes with the males eventually crossing between us and our bus. Other activity ranged from the many playful baby Gelada antics and frequent falls from trees, to much grooming and shows of male dominance. After an hour or two of this we drifted back to the lodge for a well earned dinner.

Day 7 Friday 13th November

This morning we worked the road from The Simian Lodge to Sankaber Camp. Once again we had blue skies in the morning and overcast weather threatening rain in the afternoon. Augur Buzzards and Lammergeiers punctuated the route to the next group of Geladas. Erckel’s Francolin, White-winged Cliff Chat, and Tacazze and Variable Sunbirds were seen between distant small groups of Klipspringers. A short road side walk produced Abyssinian Woodpecker, White-billed and Slender-billed Starlings, African Paradise Flycatcher, Singing Cisticola, Little Rock Thrush, a single Yellow-bellied Waxbill, and the usual array of seedeaters.

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When we eventually arrived at Sankaber Camp we went for a short walk. Nyanza Swift and Pale Crag Martin were the predominant species in the air, and more Brown-rumped and Streaky Seedeaters abounded. A Verreaux’s Eagle flew over as we searched in vain for Rock Hyrax. There were many butterflies in the area but few were familiar to us. The scenery was spectacular. Making our way back to the lodge for a late lunch we stopped for some Geladas drinking from a roadside puddle, and two very close Klipspringers.

We had lunch at the lodge followed by a rest from 2pm to 3.45pm. White-backed Black Tit, a dark phase Augur Buzzard, many Moorland Chats and lots of Chiffchaff were around the main lodge building. We set off to spend the afternoon amongst a playful troop of about 300 Geladas. The mist rolled in and rain threatened but never delivered. The hours quickly went by and soon the Geladas were descending onto the cliff face. We were a little cold but had a memorable afternoon with the fascinating and entertaining Gelada.

Day 8 Saturday 14th November

It was time to say goodbye to Simian Lodge and make our way back to Gondar. Our bags were loaded on the bus with some additional staff and the cook. Speeding towards the Four Sisters, we were forced to detour off the main road for a few blocks which enabled us to watch people go about their lives on market day. We stopped for a Black Stork, but not the Isabelline, Red-breasted or Pied Wheatears. At Befikir Kossoyo Lodge we had coffee and many photographic opportunities of Lammergeier at eye level. The view was spectacular and Steppe Eagle, White-rumped Babblers and the now ordinary Thick-billed Ravens were also on offer.

We made good time for our lunch stop and were back at the Goha Hotel by 2pm. An afternoon stroll around the gardens produced Steppe and Tawny Eagles, Hooded Vulture, Little Rock Thrush, Singing Cisticola and a glimpse of the Guereza Colobus. We had already had a great trip, but anticipated better things at Awash. An early night was called for to ensure we didn’t miss our early flight.

Day 9 Sunday 15th November

A 7.30am bus trip to the airport left little time for us to squeeze in our quota of Tawny and Steppe Eagles. Mocking Cliff Chat was once again in the restaurant. The trip to Gondar airport took 30 minutes or so and boarding the plane was relatively hassle free in this era of heightened security. After landing, we were picked up by Affir, our driver and sped out of Addis. Dreamland Hotel by Lake Bishftu was an entertaining spot for lunch. Ethiopian Bee-eater nearly made it on the ‘inside the restaurant list’ but Lesser-striped Swallow and Variable Sunbird undoubtedly did. We watched a large Agama lizard, fly by Black-winged Lovebirds, about a dozen Lesser-striped Swallows, a few Red-rumped Swallows, Rock Martin, hawking Ethiopian Bee-eaters, Red-billed Firefinches, and a tight group of 200 Little Grebes was an unusually large congregation. A Marsh Harrier drifted by and a couple of Egyptian Geese stopped to check out the building construction.

After lunch we had a short walk near Lake Chekalaka. Waterbirds were out in force despite it being the middle of the day. Unfortunately the water level was a bit lower than normal and there weren’t too many ducks visible. Marabou, Glossy and Sacred Ibis, Common Crane and two fine Black-crowned Cranes gave excellent views. Red-billed Queleas erupted from the reeds intermittently. More familiar waders in the form of Ruff, Black- winged Stilt, Wood and Common Sandpipers, Little Stint, Spotted Redshank and Spur-winged Plover gave good views, whilst Marsh Harriers, Tawny Eagles and Yellow-billed Kites vied for airspace. A group of distant Greater

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Flamingoes showed for those who reluctantly dragged themselves back to the bus. A male Eastern Grey Woodpecker drilled for its dinner until we left.

It was about another two hours until our next stop at Lake Beseka. Once again the stop did not disappoint. The highlights were Isabelline Wheatear, a small fly through group of Northern Carmine Bee-eaters, and a solitary Black-necked Rock Hyrax, picked out by Andrew after most people had boarded the bus! A little further around the lake Grey-rumped Swallow, Pink-backed Pelican, Yellow-billed Stork, and Squacco and Striated Herons showed. A pair of Pied Kingfishers stayed to be photographed by the lucky few.

We were soon at the entrance to Awash National Park where a pair of Beisa Oryx teased us at a distance, White- headed Buffalo Weavers put in an early show, Lesser Kudu was less expected, and Salt’s Dikdik stayed around for everyone to have a good view. Olive Baboons loitered and Warthogs strutted around as we entered the Awash Falls Lodge. As always, the Lodge was a bit of a shock to the system after some of our previous accommodations, but we were in the heart of where we wanted to be and had to accept some lack of creature comforts. The food was good at dinner and we prepared ourselves for the next onslaught of mammals.

Day 10 Monday 16th November

This is a day that will long be remembered by group members. Awash delivered the mammal onslaught we requested. The dawn start was slow with a pair of Yellow-necked Spurfowl, a couple of Salt’s Dikdik and a picturesque sunrise being the only things of note in the first 30 minutes or so. We started to wonder whether we should have opted for a later start when we noticed small groups of vultures on the roadside Acacias. We heard a distant hyena call, and then two Black-backed Jackals crossed the road. Suddenly we realised we were nearly on top of a hyena kill. The Spotted Hyenas scuttled off and the vultures made their move. The residual carcass was identified as a Beisa Oryx.

The next three hours was spent teasing birds and mammals from the side of the road, sometimes on foot and sometimes from the bus. Cardinal and Nubian Woodpeckers, Rose-patched Bush Shrike, Cut-throat Finch, White-winged Scrub Robin, White-headed and Red-billed Buffalo Weavers, a fine Abyssinian Roller, and the start of a glut of Isabelline Wheatears were seen. The mammals followed suit and Beisa Oryx soon hit double figures, Soemmerring’s Gazelle showed at a distance, and Warthogs, more Dikdik and Lesser Kudu all showed well. Eventually we managed to get ourselves back for a 9.45am breakfast.

After breakfast no activities were scheduled to allow the driver some rest before a late afternoon visit to the hyena caves and a night drive. This also allowed us time to explore on foot and take in our fine African setting. Just beyond the gates we found a track to the riverside forest. Grivet Monkeys were present in good numbers, Black-billed Barbets dueted, an Orange-breasted Bush Shrike did its utmost not to be photographed, and a family of Hadeda Ibis lurked in the undergrowth. Andy spotted our first Mountain Wagtail and achieved some splendid images of the waterfall. Those that explored the water tank saw three more Lesser Kudu and a multitude of small finches.

At 4pm we set off for Beseka Lake but once again the number of stops prevented us from getting there. We saw a large Leopard Tortoise, Dikdik, Warthogs, Slate-coloured Boubou, and a group of Red-billed Oxpeckers made the most of the Beisa Oryx. We had enjoyed the Oryx too much and had to head straight to our Hyena stakeout.

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We arrived about 5.40pm and it was about 6pm before two large Warthogs appeared, followed by a large Spotted Hyena. Unfortunately it settled in a position that was photographable only for a chosen few. Slowly the hyenas appeared, and a falcon hunted bats above us as the sun disappeared. We headed back to the bus for a drive back through the Ilala Sala plains.

The night drive was very productive. The Oryx showed close to the road, and a White-tailed Mongoose was an early find. Highlights included Ethiopian Hare, Plain Nightjar, the last of many Isabelline Wheatears, and a Bat- eared Fox that oddly seemed to run towards us! We were eager to get to bed in preparation for our long drive the next day, and at the last junction near the lodge Abiy spotted a Porcupine cross the road, but unfortunately no-one else saw it.

Day 11 Tuesday 17th November

Bright and early we met for breakfast at 4.30am. Abiy had planned a special treat; to search for some of the less common mammals and birds of the region. We made our way with the many trucks to the Adeje Plain, north of the Awash area. At 6.50am we picked up our local guide and made our way across the inhospitable dry flat terrain. Surely little could survive here in the dry season? We saw some distant beasts amongst the overspill of Isabelline Wheatears. Soemmerring’s Gazelle was amongst the first, with very distant Beisa Oryx. Crowned and Black-headed Lapwings were conspicuous. We stopped for an obliging Common Jackal, and started to make out the distant mammals. A solitary Grévy’s Zebra was amongst them. Soemmerring’s Gazelle was the commonest mammal, followed by Warthog. A pair of Somali Ostrich appeared on the horizon and eventually moved a little closer. Gerenuk were spotted but were skittish. It was nice, however to see them running with their necks outstretched. We headed towards the distant Grévy’s Zebra and were rewarded with White-crowned Starling, and African Palm Swifts.

We headed to another part of the recently formed reserve. A group of 30 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse flew over when we were inspecting another Leopard Tortoise. Not long after this we had a pair at close range from the bus. Unstriped Ground Squirrel shot past into its dwelling and Arabian Bustard appeared, followed by a male Hartlaub’s Bustard. We counted five Arabian Bustards in total and a Southern Grey Shrike. More Gerenuk tried to avoid us and eventually we were back on the main road around 10.30am. Where did all the time go?

The sun was now hot and the heat haze precluded any further natural history activities, but of course we had seen everything we had come for except the Hamadryas Baboons. We needn’t have worried as Abiy had arranged for them to meet us near the roadside checkpoint.

We stopped for lunch and made it back to Awash Falls Lodge by 2.15pm. We relaxed the rest of the afternoon till 4.30pm when we drove into Awash National Park for the last time. Helmeted Guineafowl and Harar’s Dikdik lined the track, Yellow-necked Spurfowl fed nearby, and Crested Francolin was enticed out into view. Turkestan Shrike and Northern Red-billed Hornbill were also available. Warthogs and a Lesser Kudu crossed the track. We made our way to ‘Oryx plains’ and we were surprised to see a female Hartlaub’s Bustard followed by another Arabian Bustard! There was no shortage of Oryx. As the African sun set we waited a little before meandering back. A couple of White-faced Scops Owls were seen well and three Ethiopian Scrub Hares were the only other

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beasts of note. We were all tired and decided to do the day’s list on our bus trip to Awassa, allowing us an early night’s sleep.

Day 12 Wednesday 18th November

African Fish Eagles cried at dawn to mark our departure. Two Mountain Wagtails and a couple of Hamerkops moped around the rock pools at the base of Awash Falls. Bees tried to commit suicide in our jam and honey, but nothing could prevent us from getting out of the Lodge gates by 7am. Even Affir tried delaying tactics by not paying for his beer!

Before we reached the park entrance we had seen Beisa Oryx, Warthog, Errol the Leopard Tortoise, Black- backed Jackal, Lesser Kudu, Harar’s Dikdik, Ethiopian Scrub Hare and Olive Baboon. It was as if they were lining up to remind us we had to be back soon - before the illegal grazing of livestock decimated their habitat. Perhaps we really are their only voice that has any hope of making a difference to this habitat and its inhabitants before they are lost forever, like the big game that was here not so many decades ago.

We travelled south to the Rift Valley playing Bird Bingo and spotting Northern Carmine Bee-eaters. We got to over 200 today! Each stop we made brought more goodies. A stop for coffee produced Ethiopian Epauletted Fruit Bats, Red-faced Crombec, Northern Puffback, Beautiful Sunbird, Bristle-crowned and Wattled Starlings, and African Mourning, African Collared and European Turtle Doves.

Lunch in the very pleasant Bethlehem Hotel produced Brown-throated Sand Martin, Ruppell’s Starling and a mysteriously small portion of chips that everyone thought was Eric’s lunch.

Lake Ziway was a goldmine for the photographers. Birds were exceptionally tame from rubbing shoulders with the local fisherman for generations. Highlights included Marabou, Hamerkop, Great White Pelican, a spattering of new waders and a solitary Black-winged Kite. Abiy directed us to a tree of Yellow-throated Bush Hyraxes. Unfortunately, we still had a few more hours to our destination and we had to hurry along.

We made good time but could not resist stopping for the roadside Hippopotamuses. It wasn’t long after that we arrived in the very pleasant surroundings of the United African Hotel, where we settled down for a pleasant meal in delightful surroundings.

Day 13 Thursday 19th November

Eric did a quick recce at dawn. Ethiopians were limbering up on the street and 78 Silvery-cheeked Hornbills left their roost. The lake shore was busy with African Fish Eagle, African Jacana, Black Crake, Spur-winged Plover, Greater Blue-eared Starling, White-winged Tern, Grey-headed Gull and many Malachite Kingfishers. African Pygmy Geese and White-backed Duck were greeted with delight, and an African Spoonbill mysteriously appeared and disappeared. A Hippopotamus appeared and soon he was back in the garden with the Guereza Colobuses. It was about 7.15am by the time the sun broke through and they started warming up. Two Woodland Kingfishers posed for a photograph. The rest of the garden was starting to buzz, and Silvery-cheeked Hornbills were in good numbers.

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After breakfast we headed towards the lake, but not before spotting a pair of Banded Barbets and Spotted Woodcreeper. The lakeshore’s major attractions – White-backed Duck, African Pygmy Geese, Malachite Kingfisher and Black Crake all produced photographic opportunities. Grosbeak Weaver hid in the reeds. Our route back to the garden provided a singing male Snowy-browed Robin Chat, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, African Dusky Flycatcher and more Epauletted Fruit Bats.

Next we headed to the nearby fish market at Awassa. It was now around 10am and we were mainly soaking in the atmosphere rather than adding new birds. We then boarded the coach for our long drive to the Bale Mountains. We made a stop for a buzzard and to pick up our packed lunch. Thick-billed Ravens spiralled over Shashamee as we steadily headed for our next adventure.

We stopped for a few photographs, and only managed some fleeing Ethiopian Highland Rock Hyraxes when children descended into the canyon. Time was pressing on so we continued towards the Gaysay Plain. Blue- headed Goose, Red-knobbed Coot, Yellow-billed Duck and Rouget’s Rail were all spotted. Mountain Nyala obliged with close roadside views, but the Bohor Reedbuck were more distant. It began to drizzle and it looked like our meeting with Abdullah, the Owl Man might not go quite as planned. We needn’t have worried as the rain stopped and the Abyssinian Owl showed exceptionally well. The African Wood Owl chose to roost in an awkward position but eventually everyone had telescope views that at least convinced them they were not imaging things!

As we left the park, Andy spotted a Bush Duiker, and an hour later we were at our hotel hoping for the usual standard of food we had grown to expect. For the first time we were disappointed, but some managed to sneak in an extra portion of dessert.

Day 14 Friday 20th November

We gathered for breakfast at 7am only to hear that some people had had a disturbed night because of a lot of opening and closing of doors in the early hours of the morning. Andy and Ron were in fine form but they were not to blame. It transpired that this was because one of our team was on the toilet when it toppled over into the shower! Besides a minor head injury, the predicament was that his wife no longer had a functioning toilet, so they decided to look for the night staff, but to no avail. Quick thinking as always, she nipped into the bushes whilst he stood guard. This immediately had the desired effect on all accounts and the security staff arrived. Soon the manager was summoned and a plan was made to deal with the crisis. They remained in a jovial mood despite being sleep deprived.

Soon after breakfast we drove to the Sanetti Plateau in good sunshine. We saw a fine male Menelik’s Bushbuck cross the road at close quarters. The drive up to the Afro-alpine meadow on an untarmacked road was straight forward enough. Rouget’s Rails and Ethiopian Siskins were in good numbers. It wasn’t long before Ron spotted a pair of Ethiopian Wolves - we sensed this was going to be a good day. We also saw a distant pair of Chestnut- naped Francolin, some Blue-winged Geese, and Yellow-billed Duck. Also multiple altitudinal record breaking comfort stops were made. During one of these comfort stops Colin startled our only Ethiopian Highland Hare. Some of the relict population of Ruddy Shelduck, Golden Eagle and Red-billed Chough all put in an appearance. Ethiopian Wolves came in a steady trickle till we had made it to six sightings. The second last was extremely

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exciting as we enjoyed great telescope views of it hunting a Giant Root Rat, which it eventually caught and devoured.

The mist rolled in and out all morning. Raptors were evident in the form of Lanner Falcon, Lammergeier, Steppe Eagle and Auger Buzzard. As we descended into the Harenna Forest, Uschi spotted a single Klipspringer, and this was soon followed by a Humming-bird Hawk-moth at 3,700 metres!

The weather closed in and yet Abiy managed to find us a group of about a dozen Bale Monkeys. They were quite shy but showed pretty well, intermittently at about 30 metres. They had some very unusual characteristics and it was surprising that these bamboo specialists were only considered a separate species fairly recently. We had our more than satisfactory picnic lunch in the shelter of our bus. There was a light rain and all attempts to explore the forest were aborted. We enjoyed the unusual scenery and it was commented that the Erica forest was like something from The Hobbit. We tried to stretch out our time on the Sanetti Plateau with the odd roadside walk, but the mist brought the visibility down to about to about 50 metres. All attempts at further wolf sightings were futile. We descended out of the mist and encountered a couple of family parties of Chestnut-naped Francolin and a pair of Rouget’s Rails. The rain had cleared the air and we had several photograph opportunities including the Hygenia abysinnicus with its grape-like bloom, and thatched roofs smoking from their indoor fires!

The weather did not have a substantial impact on our wolf sightings. Six here and the ones in the Simians brought us up to a very respectable ten in total. Later Abiy organised a lovely Ethiopian Buffet and promised even greater things tomorrow.

Day 15 Saturday 21st November

A 7am stroll around the gardens was fairly lively with Yellow-crowned Canary, the usual seedeaters, Dark-capped Bulbul, Mountain Thrush, Brown Woodland Warbler, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Montane White-eye, and Yellow- bellied Waxbill, with Thick-billed Raven overhead. Familiar birds like Tree Pipit, Chiffchaff and Lesser Whitethroat were rubbing shoulders with Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher and Tacazze Sunbird.

By 7.30am we were having breakfast, and then we were out of the gate by 8.15am. Somali Crow and Cape Rook were seen virtually side-by-side giving us a useful comparison. Red-billed Oxpeckers and Dusky Turtle Doves lined the wires in good numbers. We picked up our guide at 9.12am and set off for Gaysay. Amongst the Wattled Ibis as we approached the Gaysay Plain, were 14 Black-winged Lapwing. We had a reasonable walk and made our way to the pond at the beginning of the Gaysay Plain. Livestock were nearly always in view, not far from the many Mountain Nyala, Warthog and Bohor Reedbuck. There were good numbers of Blue-winged Geese and Yellow-billed Ducks. Rouget’s Rail popped up and scurried away as usual. Red-knobbed Coot showed evidence of breeding on the pool. We were eager to see the eagle owl and Ethiopian Highland Rock Hyrax. A juvenile Lammergeier soared low over the road and a Western Marsh Harrier floated by.

It wasn’t long before we arrived at Hora-Soba, the site for Cape Eagle Owl. We were greeted with dreadful news - the owl had hit the overhead electricity wires and had been killed. It wasn’t long before the Rock Hyraxes disappeared and we solemnly made our way back to the bus. We headed to Dinsho headquarters with our packed lunches. Abyssinian Catbirds sang and showed well outside the restaurant. We had a short rest after lunch and most people had an attempt at a siesta in the sun. Eric sneaked around the back of the toilet block and

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managed to attract the attention of a male Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk, and two female Menilik’s Bushbucks scurried into his path.

The afternoon walk produced a few birds: Mountain Buzzard, Brown Woodland Warbler and a flock of six White-winged Black Tits were the highlights. There were herds of Mountain Nyala and smaller numbers of Bohor Reedbuck. So far we had not seen any sign of a Serval today, despite looking for it. Abiy remained buoyant and we headed back to Gaysay; Abiy clearly rising to the challenge of finding us a Serval. He decided to scout from the top of the bus as we were driving across the plain! We got to a ridge and scanned. There were plenty of Mountain Nyala, Bohor Reedbuck and Warthog; but no Serval. Around 4.30pm Abiy wanted to retreat back to the road and we dutifully followed. As we approached the main road; there it was! The Serval crossed the road and into the roadside grass. It slowly sneaked into the long grass. Everyone had good views; what a result! Once on the main road the light was perfect and we watched Red-Breasted Wheatear, Rouget’s Rail and Groundscaper Thrush at close range. A celebratory Ethiopian Buffet was in order.

Day 16 Sunday 22nd November

We rolled our bags outside our doors at 6.20am in preparation for our long drive to Bishangari Lodge. Once again the weather was fine and sunny. We promised to try not to make too many stops en route. We couldn’t resist one last look at the Gaysay Plains. We waved goodbye to the Blue-winged Geese, Mountain Nyala, Bohor Reedbuck and a large congregation of Spot-breasted Lapwing. The immature Lammergeier flew over and we sailed past Augur Buzzard, Tawny Eagle, and Hooded and Ruppell’s Vultures to name a few. We aimed for an early lunch at the Haile and Adem International Hotel in Shashemene. We had an excellent meal here and then headed off to the Abijata-Shala National Park.

Here we were greeted by Somali Ostrich and Bright’s Gazelle. There was even a solitary Grant’s Gazelle amongst them. Despite being about 2pm there was a lot of evident birdlife. Andrew flushed a Slender-tailed Nightjar, which quickly landed for close views. Eastern Grey and Nubian Woodpeckers, Black-headed Batis, Pied Wheatear, and African Grey Flycatcher were all available. We headed down to the lakeshore through the parched land. The lake had several thousand Greater and Lesser Flamingoes. The shoreline was teeming with activity, and Little Stint, Kittlitz’s Plover, Ruff, about 15 Red-necked Phalarope, Grey-headed Gull, Gull-billed Tern, Avocet and Black-winged Stilt added to the show. Unfortunately we were still over an hour away from our final destination and had to tear ourselves away from the lake.

The drive to Lake Langano was dusty and bumpy, but it was well worth the effort. We had a lovely meal and celebrated Mary’s birthday with a fine cake. After this we went out for a night walk. We saw several Ethiopian Scrub Hares, a Senegal Thick-knee, two Verreaux’s Eagle Owls, and a Spotted Hyena eyeing up a couple of horses in the distance. Alas we had to call it a day around 10pm.

Day 17 Monday 23rd November

Coffee was arranged for 6.30am with a stroll around the lakeside for an hour. Yellow-fronted Parrots had gathered to make the most of the morning sun. We watched and photographed them. A raptor caused chaos. It landed in an acacia frequented by parrots – it was a large female Great Sparrowhawk. What a beauty! Other birds that put in an appearance during the hour included Grey-backed Fiscal, Orange-breasted Bush Shrike, Banded

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Barbet, Black-headed Batis, Beautiful Sunbird and male Pallid Harrier. African Fish Eagle, and Pied and Malachite Kingfishers were demoted to the second division.

Breakfast was a delight as expected. We freshened up and prepared for a longer walk. We scoured the plains, which produced Greater and Scaly-throated Honeyeaters, a suite of Starlings including Superb, Ruppell’s and Violet-backed, a dashing male Masked Shrike, Northern Black Flycatcher, great views of Ethiopian Bee-eater, and Abyssinian Roller. We had to work a little for the Narina Trogon. Guereza Colobus and Olive Baboons were out in force and we saw four Gambian Sun Squirrels. Silvery-cheeked Hornbills lumbered overhead. Ethiopian Orioles gave us a run for our money but fortunately there were three or four to choose from. Abiy heard Sharpe’s Starling but we were unable to locate it. Most of us opted for lunch and a break from the midday heat. Julian and Uschi scored with more Ethiopian and Northern Carmine Bee-eaters. Eric added Abyssinian Ground Thrush, Scaly Francolin, Reichenow’s Seedeater and a perched male Violet-backed Starling.

After a rest, some enjoyed an hour-long coffee ceremony, whilst others took a leisurely walk along the shoreline of Lake Langano. The afternoon light and breeze were perfect. There was a good collection of shorebirds including Yellow-billed Duck, African Spoonbill, both species of pelican, five species of ibis, Marsh Sandpiper and Kittlitz’s Plover. It was surreal to look in one direction and see Hippopotamus feeding in the water, and turning around 180 degrees resulted in a scene of camels against the setting sun.

Dinner was once again delicious and we all regretted the fact we couldn’t stay another day at Bishangari Lodge. With our departure tomorrow morning some were simply too tired to do another night walk. Those of us who managed to get out saw a distant mongoose species, Senegal Thick-knee, a couple of Guereza Colobus, and a single Slender-tailed Nightjar.

Day 18 Tuesday 24th November

Depression was setting in and some of us checked around from dawn to try to squeeze out a few more species. A Little Sparrowhawk flew low along the main path, no doubt planning an early assault on the Yellow-fronted Parrots. It wasn’t long before the parrots were scattered by an energetic Peregrine looking for breakfast. The Grey-backed Fiscals remained faithful to their patch, Pied Wheatears ‘chakked’ on the rocks, a male Namaqua Dove posed for Andrew to photograph, a Fish Eagle flew past with a fish, and Superb Starlings did what they were best at - looking superb.

It wasn’t long after 8am that we were on our way. Along the dusty entrance track we saw nesting Brown- throated Sand Martins. Soon after that a pair of impressive Northern Ground Hornbills was found, hunting around a roadside cemetery!

The rest of the journey was uneventful. We had a brilliant coffee stop followed by lunch at ‘Dreamland’ on Bishftu Lake. Lesser-striped and Red-rumped Swallows rested on the trees below the restaurant allowing excellent telescope views. A distant knot of birds on the water turned out to be Lesser Flamingoes up to their waists! After lunch, Affir delivered us safely to Addis where we were brought to a handicraft shop and then to the Ghion Hotel to freshen up. We had a very nice meal in the atmospheric ‘Roadrunner restaurant’ and we were introduced to the amiable Tony Hickey, the owner of Ethiopian Quadrant. We tried to lose ourselves in the

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

flicker of the open fire, the beat of the music, the taste of an Ethiopia barbeque, and warm memories of many fine Ethiopian sightings, before we boarded our flight home.

Day 19 Wednesday 25th November

We returned to the UK where another Naturetrek adventure came to an end.

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Species Lists

Birds (= recorded but not counted; H = heard only; m = male; f = female)

November Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 1 Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris 50 90+ 75 30

2 Somali Ostrich Struthio camelus molybdophanes 2 6

3 Crested Francolin Dendroperdix sephaena 4

4 Scaly Francolin Pternistis squamatus 4 3

5 Chestnut-naped Francolin Pternistis castaneicollis 15

6 Yellow-necked Spurfowl Pternistis leucoscepus 1 5 3

7 White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata 17

8 White-backed Duck Thalassornis leuconotus 5

9 Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis 5 6 9

10 Knob-billed Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos 5

11 Blue-winged Goose Cyanochen cyanoptera 6 6 21 20 20 140

12 Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiaca 2 8 2 6 16 16 2 140 20

13 African Pygmy Goose Nettapus auritus 16

14 Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea 4

15 Yellow-billed Duck Anas undulata 3 3 20 15 1 7

16 Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata 3 4 4 100+ 3

17 Northern Pintail Anas acuta 1

18 Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota 5 1 2

19 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 200 4 1 151 240

20 Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus 8 100 lots lots

21 Lesser Flamingo Phoeniconaias minor lots 20

22 Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis 1 1 2 2

23 African Openbill Anastomus lamelligerus 1

24 Black Stork Ciconia nigra 1 1

25 Abdim's Stork Ciconia abdimii 1

26 Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus 2

27 Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis 2

28 Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumenifer 3 100 100+ 1 150 180 1 1 40

29 African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus 15 50 100 80+ 200 25 1 5 20

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

November Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 30 Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash 4 2 6 2 4

31 Wattled Ibis Bostrychia carunculata 6 10 1 10 12 30 180 120 20 2

32 Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus 12 1

33 African Spoonbill Platalea alba 1 1 1

34 Striated Heron Butorides striata 1 1

35 Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides 1 1 6

36 Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 15 50 10 40 1 10 2

37 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 1 2 2 3 1 1 2

38 Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala 2 1

39 Great Egret Ardea alba 9 2 10 1 2 2 1

40 Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia 2 2

41 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 5 10 10 6 6 4

42 Western Reef Heron Egretta gularis 2 1

43 Hamerkop Scopus umbretta 1 5 4 20 30 5

44 Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus 23 15 5 375 3 3 7  45 Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens 1 1 2

46 Reed Cormorant Microcarbo africanus 3 50 4 4 4 5 1

47 White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax lucidus 30 80 6 7

48 African Darter Anhinga rufa 70

49 Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus 1

50 Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus 1

51 Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius 40 60+ 100+ 50+ 10 6 80+ 30 3 8 40 35 6 10 30 8 100+ 52 African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer 3 5 1 1 1 5 5 1 3 4

53 Bearded Vulture Gypaetus barbatus 3 4 9 1 2 1 1

54 Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus 2 1 1 1 3 3 1

55 Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus 3 30 35 6 25 10 8 60 10 4 12 25 8 20

56 White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus 6 40 30 18 2 10 45

57 Rüppell's Vulture Gyps rueppellii 6 2 1 4 2 6 1

58 Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus 3 2 1 1

59 Western Banded Snake Eagle Circaetus cinerascens 1

60 Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus gallicus 1

61 Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus 1 3 4 3 2 1

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November Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 62 Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus 3 1 2 1 2

63 African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides typus 1 1 2

64 Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates 1 2 1 1 4 1 1

65 African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro 1 1

66 Little Sparrowhawk Accipiter minullus 1

67 Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk Accipiter rufiventris 1

68 Black Sparrowhawk Accipiter melanoleucus 1 f

69 Mountain Buzzard Buteo oreophilus 1 1

70 Augur Buzzard Buteo augur 2 4 4 10 5 3 3 8 9

71 Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax 2 2 3 6 3 2 10 6 1 3 1

72 Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis 1 4 2 1 2

73 Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos 2

74 Verreaux's Eagle Aquila verreauxii 1 1

75 Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis 1 5

76 Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni 6

77 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 3 1 2 2 1 2 1

78 Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus 1 2 2 2

79 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 2 1 1

80 Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori 1

81 Buff-crested Bustard Lophotis gindiana 1

82 White-bellied Bustard Eupodotis senegalensis 3

83 Hartlaub's Bustard Lissotis hartlaubii 2

84 Arabian Bustard Ardeotis arabs 6

85 Rouget's Rail Rougetius rougetii 6 5 4 4

86 Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostra 3 1 2 14 11

87 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 4

88 Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata 70 6 2 80 10

89 Black Crowned Crane Balearica pavonina 2 6 2

90 Common Crane Grus grus 60 20

91 Senegal Thick-Knee Burhinus senegalensis 1 1

92 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus 1 30 20 8 10 6

93 Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta 4

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

November Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 94 Spur-winged Lapwing Vanellus spinosus 10 40 8 10 8

95 Black-headed Lapwing Vanellus tectus 10

96 Black-winged Lapwing Vanellus melanopterus 14 2

97 Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus 2 8

98 Spot-breasted Lapwing Vanellus melanocephalus 10 45

99 Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula 10 18

100 Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius 25 30

101 Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris 1

102 African Jacana Actophilornis africanus 4 30

103 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago 1

104 Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa 1 1

105 Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus 1

106 Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis 2 2

107 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 12 3 2 2

108 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus 1 2 1

109 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola 6 6 6 5 6

110 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 1 5 1 2 2 2 1 6

111 Little Stint Calidris minuta 2 7 80+ 45 2

112 Ruff Philomachus pugnax 5 4 60 15 3

113 Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus 14

114 Three-banded Courser Rhinoptilus cinctus 1

115 Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus 1

116 Grey-headed Gull Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus 12 10 10 4 3 30

117 Heuglin's Gull Larus heuglini 10

118 Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia 1

119 Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica 2 2 4 1

120 White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus 30 2 20 70 5 3

121 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus 38

122 Yellow-throated Sandgrouse Pterocles gutturalis H

123 Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea 50 30 20 20 20 20 26 20 10 15 15 10 4 12 30 8 20 124 Feral Pigeon Columba livia 'feral' 2 1

125 White-collared Pigeon Columba albitorques 3 20 20 70 20 12 3 3 30

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November Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 126 Lemon Dove Columba larvata 1 3 2

127 European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur 1

128 Dusky Turtle Dove Streptopelia lugens 10 4 35 15 8 12 12 6 3 115 40 10

129 African Collared Dove Streptopelia risoria 15 6

130 Mourning Collared Dove Streptopelia decipiens 14 6 6 1

131 Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata 20 35 20+ 4 8 8 20 10 6 4 8

132 Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola 12

133 Vinaceous Dove Streptopelia vinacea 2

134 Laughing Dove Spilopelia senegalensis 12 6 15 3 25 3 10 10 4 1 15 15

135 Emerald-spotted Wood Dove Turtur chalcospilos 3 1

136 Namaqua Dove Oena capensis 4 8

137 Bruce's Green Pigeon Treron waalia 20 20 1 3 1

138 Black-winged Lovebird Agapornis taranta 8 4 6 2 2 2 10

139 Red-bellied Parrot Poicephalus rufiventris 1

140 Yellow-fronted Parrot Poicephalus flavifrons 6 2 3 70 40

141 White-cheeked Turaco Tauraco leucotis 3 6 1

142 Bare-faced Go-away-Bird Corythaixoides personatus 1

143 White-bellied Go-away-Bird Corythaixoides leucogaster 2 2 2 2

144 Eastern Plantain-Eater Crinifer zonurus 5 12 6

145 Klaas's Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas 1m

146 Northern White-faced Owl Ptilopsis leucotis 2

147 Cape Eagle-Owl Bubo capensis H

148 Greyish Eagle-Owl Bubo cinerascens 1

149 Verreaux's Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus 2

150 African Wood Owl Strix woodfordii 1 H

151 Abyssinian Owl Asio abyssinicus 1

152 Montane Nightjar Caprimulgus poliocephalus 1

153 Plain Nightjar Caprimulgus inornatus 1

154 Slender-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus clarus 3 1 2

155 African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus 10+

156 Nyanza Swift Apus niansae 8 12 20 10 5

157 Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus 20 10 6 3 2 5 6 6 14

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

November Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 158 Blue-naped Mousebird Urocolius macrourus 6 7 2

159 Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina 1

160 Purple Roller Coracias naevius 1

161 Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudatus 1

162 Abyssinian Roller Coracias abyssinicus 1 2 1 4 2

163 Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti 1 1 2

164 Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis 1 1 2

165 African Pygmy Kingfisher Ispidina picta 1

166 Malachite Kingfisher Corythornis cristatus 16 2 1

167 Half-collared Kingfisher Alcedo semitorquata 1

168 Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maxima 4

169 Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis 6 4 3 2 1 10 2 6 2

170 Little Bee-Eater Merops pusillus 4 4 1

171 Ethiopian Bee-eater Merops variegatus lafresnayii 1 6 2 50 4

172 Northern Carmine Bee-Eater Merops nubicus 3 2 200+ 11 30

173 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops 1 1 2 2 2

174 Black-billed Wood Hoopoe Phoeniculus somaliensis 2 3 1

175 Abyssinian Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus minor 2

176 Hemprich's Hornbill Tockus hemprichii 1 3 3 1 2

177 African Grey Hornbill Tockus nasutus 1 1 1

178 Northern Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus 1 1 1 2

179 Eastern Yellow-billed Hornbill Tockus flavirostris 2 2

180 Silvery-cheeked Hornbill Bycanistes brevis 10 3 6 85 3 2 7

181 Abyssinian Ground Hornbill Bucorvus abyssinicus 2

182 Red-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus pusillus 1

183 Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus chrysoconus 1

184 Black-throated Barbet Tricholaema melanocephala 1

185 Banded Barbet Lybius undatus 2 1 4 1

186 Black-billed Barbet Lybius guifsobalito 2 1 4 3

187 Double-toothed Barbet Lybius bidentatus 4 6 4 2

188 Scaly-throated Honeyguide Indicator variegatus 1

189 Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator 1

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The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

November Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 190 Nubian Woodpecker Campethera nubica 1 2 2 1 2

191 Abyssinian Woodpecker Dendropicos abyssinicus 2

192 Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens 1

193 Eastern Grey Woodpecker Dendropicos spodocephalus 3 1m 1

194 Grey-headed Batis Batis orientalis 1

195 Western Black-headed Batis Batis erlangeri 1 3 1

196 Brown-throated Wattle-Eye Platysteira cyanea 1

197 Orange-breasted Bushshrike Chlorophoneus sulfureopectus 1 2

198 Rosy-patched Bushshrike Telophorus cruentus 3

199 Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus 1

200 Northern Puffback Dryoscopus gambensis 1 2 2

201 Slate-colored Boubou Laniarius funebris 1

202 Ethiopian Boubou Laniarius aethiopicus 1 1 2 1 1 5

203 Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike Campephaga phoenicea 1

204 Northern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalus ruppelli 6 9 3

205 Turkestan Shrike Lanius isabellinus phoenicuroides 1

206 Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis 2 1

207 Grey-backed Fiscal Lanius excubitoroides 3 3

208 Common Fiscal Lanius collaris 1 3 1 2 3

209 Somali Fiscal Lanius somalicus 1 4 2

210 Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus 2

211 Ethiopian Oriole Oriolus monacha 3 4

212 Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis 2 6 4 2

213 Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax 50 2

214 Cape Crow Corvus capensis 1 30 10 6 4 10

215 Pied Crow Corvus albus 6 15 10 3 20 6 8 10 4 20 6

216 Somali Crow Corvus edithae 2 15 4 5

217 Fan-tailed Raven Corvus rhipidurus 8 3 4 8 5 2 5 14 4 3 2 2

218 Thick-billed Raven Corvus crassirostris 3 12 15+ 12 15+ 6 10 8 8 10

219 White-winged Black Tit Parus leucomelas 1

220 White-backed Black Tit Parus leuconotus 2 2 5 6

221 Erlanger's Lark Calandrella erlangeri 1

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

November Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 222 Thekla Lark Galerida theklae 20 5 12 2

223 Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus 9 15 30+ 2 3 3 4 4 5

224 Dark-capped Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus tricolor 2 6 2 4 2

225 Black Saw-Wing Psalidoprocne pristoptera 10 4

226 Grey-rumped Swallow Pseudhirundo griseopyga 1

227 Brown-throated Martin Riparia paludicola 6 35 209 20

228 Sand Martin Riparia riparia 20 3 1 600+

229 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 20 1 2 4 1 1 3 20+ 4 1000

230 Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii 4 4 1

231 Pale Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne obsoleta 40 25 30+ 15 1

232 Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula 4 4 1 1 4 1

233 Common House Martin Delichon urbicum 1 15+

234 Lesser Striped Swallow Cecropis abyssinica 10 3

235 Mosque Swallow Cecropis senegalensis 2

236 Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica 2

237 Northern Crombec Sylvietta brachyura 3 4 4

238 Red-faced Crombec Sylvietta whytii 2 1 1

239 Brown Woodland Warbler Phylloscopus umbrovirens 3

240 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus 1 2

241 Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita 4 3 20 6 2 1 8 2 5

242 Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus 5

243 African Reed Warbler Acrocephalus baeticatus 1

244 Cinnamon Bracken Warbler Bradypterus cinnamomeus H H

245 Singing Cisticola Cisticola cantans H 2 1

246 Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana 2

247 Ethiopian Cisticola Cisticola lugubris 2 2 1 4

248 Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava 6 2 2

249 Buff-bellied Warbler Phyllolais pulchella 1

250 Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata 1 2 2 4

251 White-rumped Babbler Turdoides leucopygia 3 2 2

252 Abyssinian Catbird Parophasma galinieri H H 2 1

253 Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla 6 6 1 1

8 © Naturetrek

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

November Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 254 Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca 1 3 1

255 Abyssinian White-Eye Zosterops abyssinicus 4 4 2 1 1

256 Montane White-Eye Zosterops poliogastrus 10

257 Spotted Creeper Salpornis spilonotus 1

258 Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea 1 10 6

259 Greater Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus 4 30 50+ 8 2 12 8 20 60+ 15 20 80

260 Rüppell's Starling Lamprotornis purpuroptera 3 9 10 5 14

261 Superb Starling Lamprotornis superbus 3 2 4 10 8 10

262 White-crowned Starling Lamprotornis albicapillus 3

263 Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio 25 4 10 8

264 Slender-billed Starling Onychognathus tenuirostris 50 2 2 5

265 Bristle-crowned Starling Onychognathus salvadorii 5

266 White-billed Starling Onychognathus albirostris 2

267 Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster 5

268 Sharpe's Starling Poeoptera sharpii H

269 Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorhynchus 1 1 14 2 17 2 2

270 Abyssinian Ground Thrush Geokichla piaggiae 1

271 Groundscraper Thrush Psophocichla litsitsirupa 10 20 6 12 4 20 8 10

272 African Thrush Turdus pelios 1 1 2 1

273 Abyssinian Thrush Turdus abyssinicus 6 5 8 6 1 1 2 3 4 5 1 3

274 Rüppell's Robin-Chat Cossypha semirufa 2 1 2 1 1

275 White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini 1

276 White-winged Scrub-robin Erythropygia leucophrys leucoptera 1

277 Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus 4 2

278 African Stonechat Saxicola torquatus 2 1 3

279 Red-breasted Wheatear Oenanthe bottae 8 2 2 5 6

280 Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina 1 3 20 20 5 1 1

281 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe 1

282 Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka 2 4 2 1 2 1 2 3 6 3 4

283 Moorland Chat Pinarochroa sordida 6 25+ 30 15 4 25 12 8

284 Mocking Cliff Chat Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris 4 6 2 4

285 White-winged Cliff Chat Thamnolaea semirufa 2 1 1

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

November Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 286 Little Rock Thrush Monticola rufocinereus 2 1 2 1

287 African Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis 1 6 2 1 1 2

288 Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher Dioptrornis chocolatinus 3 6 2 2 1

289 Northern Black Flycatcher Melaenornis edolioides 6 2

290 African Grey Flycatcher Bradornis microrhynchus 1 1

291 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata 1

292 African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta 1 1 2 1 1 1

293 Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis 2 1 2

294 Tacazze Sunbird Nectarinia tacazze 2 6+ 2 13 4 6 2 4 5 7 10

295 Beautiful Sunbird Cinnyris pulchellus 6 6

296 Variable Sunbird Cinnyris venustus 1 3 4 2 4 2 5 2

297 White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser mahali 7 8 25 3 35 15 55

298 Swainson's Sparrow Passer swainsonii 10 20 20 6 6 8 5 10 2 10

299 Bush Petronia Gymnoris dentata 1

300 Yellow-spotted Petronia Gymnoris pyrgita 1

301 Red-billed Buffalo Weaver Bubalornis niger 7

302 White-headed Buffalo Weaver Dinemellia dinemelli 4 8 15 6 10 2

303 Thick-billed Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons 1

304 Baglefecht Weaver Ploceus baglafecht 8 4 4 4 10 2 6 2 2

305 Little Weaver Ploceus luteolus 4

306 Spectacled Weaver Ploceus ocularis 6 1 2 4

307 Rüppell's Weaver Ploceus galbula 5 4 3

308 Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus 20 2 4 2 12 10

309 Red-winged Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps leuconotus 1 1

310 Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea 300 6 50 70

311 Yellow-crowned Bishop Euplectes afer 4

312 Northern Red Bishop Euplectes franciscanus 6 2

313 Yellow Bishop Euplectes capensis 3

314 Yellow-mantled Widowbird Euplectes macroura 2

315 Cut-throat Finch Amadina fasciata 3 1 1 2

316 Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala 6 12 5 1 8 4 20 8 10 4 2 1 2

317 Red-cheeked Cordon-Bleu Uraeginthus bengalus 2 2 8 4 4 3 1 4 2 4

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

November Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 318 Yellow-bellied Waxbill Coccopygia quartinia 2 3 1 2 4 4

319 Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild 1 4 3

320 African Quailfinch Ortygospiza fuscocrissa 3

321 African Silverbill Euodice cantans 1 10

322 Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata 15 12 3 2

323 Village Indigobird Vidua chalybeata 6 3 4

324 Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura 1 1 1

325 Long-tailed Paradise Whydah Vidua paradisaea 1

326 Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava 1 1 12 14 40 1

327 Blue-headed Wagtail Motacilla flava flava 8 2 2 6 6 6

328 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 2

329 Mountain Wagtail Motacilla clara 1 2

330 White Wagtail Motacilla alba 1 1

331 Abyssinian Longclaw Macronyx flavicollis 3 1

332 Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis 3

333 Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus 3 2 4 1 1

334 Yellow-crowned Canary Serinus flavivertex 1 6 4 2 1 3

335 Ethiopian Siskin Serinus nigriceps 4 160 50

336 African Citril Crithagra citrinelloides 8 4 1 1 1 4 3

337 Reichenow's Seedeater Crithagra reichenowi 1 2 2

338 Yellow-fronted Canary Crithagra mozambica 1

339 Brown-rumped Seedeater Crithagra tristriata 6 3 5 12 25+ 10 6 1 4 10 2 14

340 Ankober Serin Crithagra ankoberensis 3

341 Streaky Seedeater Crithagra striolata 4 8 4 6 4 3 12 10 3 4

Mammals

1 Yellow-spotted Rock Hyrax Heterohyrax brucei 3

2 Senegal Bushbaby Galago senegalensis 1

3 Grivet Chlorocebus aethiops 1 16 7 1

4 Bale Mountain Vervet Chlorocebus djamdjamensis 12

5 Olive Baboon Papio anubis 6 30 8 8 20 100 36 50

6 Hamadryas Baboon Papio hamadryas 100

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

November Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 7 Gelada Theropithecus gelada 250 600 1000

8 Mantled Guereza Colobus guereza 1 4 12 4 12 5

9 Ethiopian Hare Lepus fagani 4 3 1 3 1

10 Ethiopian Highland Hare Lepus starcki 1

11 Serval Leptailurus serval 1

12 White-tailed Mongoose Ichneumia albicauda 1

13 Spotted Hyena Crocuta crocuta 20

14 Golden Jackal Canis aureus 4

15 Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas 6 2

16 Ethiopian Wolf Canis simensis 4 6

17 Common Warthog Phacochoerus africanus 3 50 30 6 35 100 18 22

18 Common Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius 3 3 4

19 Gerenuk Litocranius walleri 8

20 Harar Dikdik Madoqua hararensis 2 12 14 7

21 Grant's Gazelle Gazella granti 1

22 Bright's Gazelle Gazella granti brighti 15

23 Soemmerring's Gazelle Nanger soemmerringii 8 33

24 Klipspringer Oreotragus oreotragus 6 10 1

25 Mountain Nyala Tragelaphus buxtoni 22 130 1

26 Lesser Kudu Tragelaphus imberbis 2 6 3 3 4

27 Menelik's Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus meneliki 3 1 1 4

28 Bush Duiker Sylvicapra grimmia 1 3

29 Beisa Oryx Oryx beisa 2 30 30 1

30 Bohor Reedbuck Redunca redunca 3 10 2

31 Unstriped Ground Squirrel Xerus rutilus 1

32 Gambian Sun Squirrel Heliosciurus gambianus 4

33 Ethiopian African Mole Rat Tachyoryctes macrocephalus 10

34 Black-clawed Brush-furred Rat Lophuromys melanonyx 6

35 Blick's Arvicanthus Arvicanthis blicki 10 1 8

36 Walia Ibex Capra walie 14

37 Unstriped Grass Rat Arvicanthis abyssinicus 10 1

38 Black Rat Rattus rattus 1

The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report

November Common name Scientific name 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 39 Bat-eared Fox Otocyon megalotis 2

40 Grévy’s Zebra Equus grevyi 1

41 Ethiopian Rock Hyrax Procavia capensis 15 2

42 Black necked Hyrax Procavia johnstoni 7 11

Other Taxa

Leopard Tortoise, Stigmochelys pardalis African Striped Skink, Trachylepis striata Black-necked Agama, Acanthocercus atricollis

Nile Crocodile, Crocodylus niloticus

Black Crake Gelada