The Best of Ethiopia Naturetrek Tour Report 7 – 25 November 2015 African Fish Eagle Walia Ibex Ethiopian Wolf White-cheeked Turaco Report & images compiled by Eric Barnes Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report Tour Participants: Abiy Dagne and Eric Barnes (leaders) with ten Naturetrek clients Introduction For most people, Ethiopia won’t be top of their list of places to visit for an enjoyable holiday, nor would they think of it as a wildlife hotspot. Those that take the trip, in my experience, have been universally pleased that they took a leap of faith and travelled to a wildlife paradise full of character and surprises. “Eric, this Lammergeier is far too close for us to photograph” and “Don’t stop, it’s only another Arabian Bustard” were comments from this year’s tour that, perhaps, give some idea of the great views and wealth of wildlife experiences. Unfortunately, it is unclear how long this situation will last. In the past two years there have been changes relating to uncontrolled grazing in their National Parks. It is clear that the wildlife will suffer severely over the next decade, so if you are thinking of going, go sooner rather than later! Day 1 Saturday 7th November In flight to Ethiopia. Day 2 Sunday 8th November Our Ethiopian Airline flight touched down as smooth as silk, slightly ahead of schedule. We got our visas, picked up our adjoining clients and headed off for a quick breakfast and wander around the Ghion Hotel. The airport was lively with birds as usual, but the first endemic of the trip was on the roundabout after the exit barrier - four Wattled Ibis! At Ghion, the circling Yellow-billed Kites were joined by a dark phase Booted Eagle. In our short stop between breakfast and boarding the plane for Bahar Dar we managed to spot Black-winged Lovebird, squabbling Mountain Thrushes, the first of many Speckled Mousebirds, Baglefecht Weaver, Dusky Turtle Dove, Brown- rumped Seedeater and Tacazze Sunbird. We were soon back at the airport for our connecting flight to Bahar Dar. Andrew and Eric were summoned to the transfer luggage area. They were pleased to discover that their luggage had made it from London, however they had to demonstrate that their tripods were not dangerous weapons! A close fly by Tawny Eagle was some consolation. The flight to Bahar Dar was short and sweet. Rock Martins were hawking outside the terminal building and a Speckled Pigeon was flying around inside! We went to the Tana Hotel, freshened up quickly, and then had a pleasant fish lunch. Before finishing we were joined by a splendid African Paradise Flycatcher hawking round the light fittings for insects! Outside we saw a male Scarlet-chested Sunbird, whilst Black-winged Lovebird, Eastern Plantain-Eater and African Citril vied for our attention. It was all too much for some people who had to go and lie down. Meanwhile Andy and Eric continued in the cool breeze of the shaded patio spotting Northern Puffback, a © Naturetrek January 16 1 The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report juvenile African Harrier Hawk, Red-eyed and Laughing Doves, several African Fish Eagles and lots of flyover Speckled Pigeons. Also a Red-fronted Tinkerbird and Double-toothed Barbets showed prior to our afternoon walk. At 4.30pm we set off down the road and enjoyed views of Greater Blue-eared Starling, Woodland Kingfisher, a nice male Nubian Woodpecker, Spur-winged and Egyptian Geese, a distant male Pin-tailed Whydah, Northern Red Bishop coming into breeding plumage, Village Indigobird, Common Fiscal, a formation of 23 Great White Pelicans and more African Citrils to name a few. The evening ended with a birdcall. Day 3 Monday 9th November Breakfast was served at 6.45am to allow us to make the most use of the day. Our first bird in the garden soon after 6am was an African Fish Eagle. Squacco Heron, Spur-winged Goose and Bruce’s Green Pigeon soon followed. A calling Ethiopian Boubou was reserved for Andy and Eric, but soon after Marion arrived she found a pair of Giant Kingfishers. They were close but unfortunately the light was suboptimal for photographs. Double-toothed Barbets huddled together to catch the morning sun just before breakfast beckoned. It wasn’t long before breakfast was interrupted by a pair of Silver-cheeked Hornbills, and Eastern Plantain-Eaters frequently called for attention. After breakfast we went on the bus to a boat that was taking us to a monastic island in Lake Tana. Abeabe, a local guide, came with us and gave an informative summary of the local history and geography. The crossing was not punctuated with too many birds, but Great White Pelicans dotted the distant horizon, good numbers of White-winged Terns chose to fish behind the wake of our boat, and Grey-headed and Heuglin’s Gulls loafed around in small numbers. At Intose Iyesus the birds were very tame. Spectacled Weavers were building nests near the footpath, Bruce’s Green Pigeons were close by, and there was no shortage of Red-eyed Doves and Speckled Pigeons. Some of us visited the monastery, whilst others waiting outside spotted an African Paradise Flycatcher hawked around the church walls and a Common Bulbul bludgeoned a large insect on the church steps. Ruppell’s Robin Chat teased us until everyone came back out and then it surrendered. On our return to the boat we spotted Lemon Dove and more Mountain Thrushes. Back on the boat we headed towards the Zege Peninsular with an unsuccessful search for African Finfoot, although there were many Anhingas, and Reed and White-breasted Cormorants. A pair of African Fish Eagles dwarfed the Yellow-billed Kites, and a pair of Peregrines seemed to use the island as their bird table. We had more kumquat and coffee at our next stop. Unfortunately a funeral was taking place near a known site for Hyrax. Next we had another guided tour of a monastery. Eric and Andrew stayed outside and spotted White- cheeked Turaco and a pair of Yellow-fronted Parrots. We returned to the boat and had a quick visit to the source of the Blue Nile where a pair of Giant Kingfishers were our best sighting. By 1pm we were at the Lakeshore Restaurant. After the lunch order was taken Eric and Uschi found a very ambitious mosquito that bothered Uschi. We made a hasty retreat and sort solace with a solitary Pink-backed Pelican. In between courses we saw Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, a flyover Caspian Tern, African Harrier Hawk, and a Ruppell’s Robin Chat was chased towards us by an African Thrush. Julian also saw a Common Sandpiper and Eric a couple of Nubian Woodpeckers between courses. The surroundings were very 2 © Naturetrek The Best of Ethiopia Tour Report pleasant overlooking the lake. The front of the hotel entertained us after lunch with plenty of Sacred Ibis, squabbling Black Crakes, Red-cheeked Corden Bleu and Bronze Manikins to mention a few. After lunch we continued our journey to the Blue Nile Falls, stopping at a famous dump to look for scavenging birds. A close Tawny Eagle and two Woolly-necked Storks slowed us down a little. Thankfully the dump was odour free today; perhaps because it had been rather dry lately. Egyptian, Hooded, White-backed and Lappet- faced Vultures were all present. The latter gave us exceptional views by unexpectedly flying straight at us after leaving its tree top perch. As it came over, the light was just right and it was no more than 10-20 metres above our heads. Frame filling views! We arrived about 4pm and parked the bus by a small group of Red-billed Firefinches and Village Indigobirds. The walk to the Blue Nile Falls was pleasant with a good variety of birds. White-collared Pigeon, Vinaceous Dove, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Western Banded Snake Eagle, Hamerkop, Black-billed Scimiterbill and Mocking Cliff Chat were added to our expanding list. We returned to our accommodation as the sun set, spotting Cape Rook on the way. A Fruit Bat during the night walk was our first mammal of the trip. Day 4 Tuesday 10th November We scheduled a morning walk around the lake and garden at 6.30am to ensure a speedy get away for our trip to Gondar. Good views of White-cheeked Turaco were requested by several, and Abey duly found the birds. The fruiting tree was busy with Black-billed and Double-toothed Barbets, Ethiopian Boubou, Eastern Plantain Eater, Red-billed Firefinch and Red-cheeked Cordon Bleu. The lakeside produced a very close African Harrier Hawk, and a young Variable Sunbird washing itself with dew from the surface of some leaves by the footpath. We battled past the Pied Kingfishers, Ruppell’s Robin Chat, African and Mountain Thrushes and numerous doves to get to breakfast. A Village Weaver was already inside the restaurant looking for scraps! Our bags were loaded on the bus at 8am and we set off at 8.30am. Silvery-cheeked Hornbills and Yellow-fronted Parrots were in the car park to see us off, and the Woodland Kingfisher remained faithful to the stumps on the entrance road. We made four stops en route to Gondar. The first produced Long-crested Eagle and Mosque Swallows. The second was at a roadside Vulture fest. Our third stop was on the plains where we saw Red-breasted Wheatear, Bush Petronia, African Quailfinch, Erlanger’s Lark and Ethiopian Cisticola.