Guild Newsletter June 2015
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Checklist of Anniversary Acquisitions
Checklist of Anniversary Acquisitions As of August 1, 2002 Note to the Reader The works of art illustrated in color in the preceding pages represent a selection of the objects in the exhibition Gifts in Honor of the 125th Anniversary of the Philadelphia Museum of Art. The Checklist that follows includes all of the Museum’s anniversary acquisitions, not just those in the exhibition. The Checklist has been organized by geography (Africa, Asia, Europe, North America) and within each continent by broad category (Costume and Textiles; Decorative Arts; Paintings; Prints, Drawings, and Photographs; Sculpture). Within each category, works of art are listed chronologically. An asterisk indicates that an object is illustrated in black and white in the Checklist. Page references are to color plates. For gifts of a collection numbering more than forty objects, an overview of the contents of the collection is provided in lieu of information about each individual object. Certain gifts have been the subject of separate exhibitions with their own catalogues. In such instances, the reader is referred to the section For Further Reading. Africa | Sculpture AFRICA ASIA Floral, Leaf, Crane, and Turtle Roundels Vests (2) Colonel Stephen McCormick’s continued generosity to Plain-weave cotton with tsutsugaki (rice-paste Plain-weave cotton with cotton sashiko (darning the Museum in the form of the gift of an impressive 1 Sculpture Costume and Textiles resist), 57 x 54 inches (120.7 x 115.6 cm) stitches) (2000-113-17), 30 ⁄4 x 24 inches (77.5 x group of forty-one Korean and Chinese objects is espe- 2000-113-9 61 cm); plain-weave shifu (cotton warp and paper cially remarkable for the variety and depth it offers as a 1 1. -
New Textiles Inspired by Ikat - by Christina Maschke Degree Project Master of Fine Arts in Fashion and Textile Design with Specialization in Textile Design
THE PATTERNED THREAD - new textiles inspired by ikat - by Christina Maschke Degree Project Master of Fine Arts in Fashion and Textile Design with Specialization in Textile Design Title The patterned thread - new textiles inspired by ikat Author Christina Maschke Supervisor Margareta Zetterbloom Opponent Malene Kristiansen Examiner Hanna Landin Report No. 2016.6.05 The Swedish School of Textiles University of Borås Sweden Abstract The work of this MA thesis develops a new ap- proach to hand weaving in which the design pro- cess is led by the technique of resistant dyeing. The process is inspired by the visual properties of traditional ikats. It follows the technical ikat procedure of primary resistant dyeing and sub- sequently weaving. Whithin the research a new way of weaving is explored in which the dyed thread dictates the weaving process and therefore influences the weaving motif. In addition different design variables such as material, binding pattern and finishing are used to push forward the devel- oped concept. The aim of this work is to explore new aesthetic expressions between regular and irregular motifs through the application of design thinking. The result presents an innovative approach in the ikat technique in order to create random distrib- uted patterns and how they can be already influ- enced in the stage of yarn preparation. Keywords: ikat, indigo, resistant dyeing, craft, hand weaving 3 CONTENT 1 INTRODUCTION ....................................................................10 1.1 INTRODUCTION TO THE FIELD ......................................10 -
Old Ties and New Points
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings Textile Society of America 2000 Old Ties and New Points Keiko Kobayashi Ueno Gakuen Women’s College, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf Kobayashi, Keiko, "Old Ties and New Points" (2000). Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. 806. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/806 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Old Ties and New Points Keiko Kobayashi This paper discusses the development and technical transfer of what is perhaps the world's tiniest double ikat, Kasuri, developed in Japan after the Meiji restoration of 1868. Around the early 20th century, Japanese Kasuri was at the zenith of its quality, in creating geometric as well as pictorial designs using a very advanced form of color and weave effect. There were three reasons for this development during this period. The first reason was in the improvement of the "Orijime" technique which is a uniquely Japanese method in making kasuri threads using the loom. The second reason was the importation of knowledge from Lyon, France, on how to use graph paper which greatly contributed to making the designs of the finished textile products more sophisticated and pictorial. The third reason was social in that during this period, there was a rise in the demand for clothing in Japan as the country was becoming modernized. -
Depictions of Modernity on Japanese Kurume E-Gasuri Futon-Ji
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings Textile Society of America 2010 Tradition Embraces “The New”: Depictions of Modernity on Japanese Kurume E-gasuri Futon-ji Ann Marie Moeller [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf Part of the Art and Design Commons Moeller, Ann Marie, "Tradition Embraces “The New”: Depictions of Modernity on Japanese Kurume E- gasuri Futon-ji" (2010). Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. 40. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/40 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. TRADITION EMBRACES “THE NEW”: DEPICTIONS OF MODERNITY ON JAPANESE KURUME E-GASURI (PICTURE IKAT) FUTON-JI (BEDDING COVERS) ANN MARIE MOELLER [email protected] Figure 1. Five panel Kurume tate-yoko-gasuri (warp and weft ikat) futon-ji (bedding cover). Early 20th c. Cotton. Formerly in the Horiuchi Izuho collection. Currently in the Krauss Collection at The Fowler Museum, UCLA. 59 ¾ x 46 in. (152 x 117 cm.). (Photo: Bill Landesz.) It is a rare twenty first century bride who begins her life of marital bliss with an image of the industrial age like a battleship on her nuptial bed. Figure 1 is a Japanese hand woven cotton futon-ji (bedding cover) from the early twentieth century. The warship was created by Kurume tate-yoko-gasuri (warp and weft ikat). -
Hogushi and Heiyo: Methods of Creating Painterly Images in Woven Textiles
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings Textile Society of America 1998 Hogushi and Heiyo: Methods of Creating Painterly Images in Woven Textiles Kazuo Mutoh Kiryu Orijuku Textile Archive and Study Center Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf Part of the Art and Design Commons Mutoh, Kazuo, "Hogushi and Heiyo: Methods of Creating Painterly Images in Woven Textiles" (1998). Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. 196. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/196 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Panel Title: From Kitsch to Art Moderne: Popular Textiles for Women in the First Half of Twentieth-Century Japan by Arai, Mutoh, and Wada (for introduction to panel, see paper by Wada) Hogushi and Heiyo: Methods of Creating Painterly Images in Woven Textiles by Kazuo Mutoh Kiryu Orijuku Textile Archive and Study Center Proto-Meisen The term meisen generally refers to plain-weave silk cloth patterned with woven (not printed) stripes or kasuri and made into kimono, haori, and nen 'neko (literally 'jacket sleeper, " a padded coat worn during the autumn and winter months for carrying babies on the back). In the first halfofthe twentieth century, almost all Japanese women were familiar with meisen as ordinary, everyday wear for the upper and middle classes and as dress-up kimono for work ing-class and country women. -
Smithsonian Collections from Commodore Matthew Perry's Japan Expedition (1853-1854)
Artifacts of Diplomacy: Smithsonian Collections from Commodore Matthew Perry's Japan Expedition (1853-1854) CHANG-SU HOUCHINS SMITHSONIAN CONTRIBUTIONS TO ANTHROPOLOGY • NUMBER 37 SERIES PUBLICATIONS OF THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION Emphasis upon publication as a means of "diffusing knowledge" was expressed by the first Secretary of the Smithsonian. In his formal plan for the institution, Joseph Henry outlined a program that included the following statement: "It is proposed to publish a series of reports, giving an account of the new discoveries in science, and of the changes made from year to year in all branches of knowledge." This theme of basic research has been adhered to through trie years by thousands of titles issued in series publications under the Smithsonian imprint, commencing with Smithsonian Contributions to Knowledge in 1848 and continuing with the following active series: Smithsonian Contributions to Anthropology Smithsonian Contributions to Botany Smithsonian Contributions to the Earth Sciences Smithsonian Contributions to the Marine Sciences Smithsonian Contributions to Paleobiology Smithsonian Contributions to Zoology Smithsonian Folklife Studies Smithsonian Studies in Air and Space Smithsonian Studies in History and Technology In these series, the Institution publishes small papers and full-scale monographs that report the research and collections of its various museums and bureaux or of professional colleagues in the world of science and scholarship. The publications are distributed by mailing lists to libraries, universities, and similar institutions throughout the world. Papers or monographs submitted for series publication are received by the Smithsonian Institution Press, subject to its own review for format and style, only through departments of the various Smithsonian museums or bureaux, where the manuscripts are given substantive review. -
5.3-Gupta,M 2:Layout 1 4/9/07 10:58 Page 314
5.3-Gupta,M 2:Layout 1 4/9/07 10:58 Page 314 Extreme fashion: Pushing the boundaries of design, technology and business 314 Fashion education – fast forward Mona Gupta Abstract The audience views some exquisitely created textiles from India and some basic questions are placed before them, followed by a case study of the Indian Kota Doria fabric. This prelude brings forth the grim reality of the textile and clothing industry today, in India and many other nations. The multiplicity of markets and insatiable consumer wants has already necessitated a faster pace and with the advent of machines, many of the hand skills have already subsided, thus severing these very basic links in this evolutionary supply chain of fashion. Where does this lead us? 1. The inevitable need for speed. 2. Spiralling prices and profits beyond an extreme, and yet the weaver perishes. 3. While the industry incomes are increasing the weaver and the workers survive in near, and even extreme, sweat shop conditions. 4. Classroom-educated fashionists still cannot replace the real creator, for even the most basic skills are often waived and paid as low sklled tasks. Hence, the apprehension that the extreme nature of the runaway fashion industry is leading to an ‘appar’theid’ of an extreme kind – in terms of income, education and social implications. So is it a case of human sensitivities, or there is a hardcore practical business strategy underlying this whole exercise for the fashion industry? We thus conducted a survey, which proves the latter. And with this backdrop, the paper moves on to elucidate our strategy for the future. -
The Complete Costume Dictionary
The Complete Costume Dictionary Elizabeth J. Lewandowski The Scarecrow Press, Inc. Lanham • Toronto • Plymouth, UK 2011 Published by Scarecrow Press, Inc. A wholly owned subsidiary of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. 4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706 http://www.scarecrowpress.com Estover Road, Plymouth PL6 7PY, United Kingdom Copyright © 2011 by Elizabeth J. Lewandowski Unless otherwise noted, all illustrations created by Elizabeth and Dan Lewandowski. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Lewandowski, Elizabeth J., 1960– The complete costume dictionary / Elizabeth J. Lewandowski ; illustrations by Dan Lewandowski. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references. ISBN 978-0-8108-4004-1 (cloth : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-0-8108-7785-6 (ebook) 1. Clothing and dress—Dictionaries. I. Title. GT507.L49 2011 391.003—dc22 2010051944 ϱ ™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992. Printed in the United States of America For Dan. Without him, I would be a lesser person. It is the fate of those who toil at the lower employments of life, to be rather driven by the fear of evil, than attracted by the prospect of good; to be exposed to censure, without hope of praise; to be disgraced by miscarriage or punished for neglect, where success would have been without applause and diligence without reward. -
Weaving Books and Monographs
Tuesday, September 10, 2002 Page: 1 ---. 10 Mujeres y Textil en 3d/10 Women and Textile Into 3. [Mexico City, Mexico: Universidad Nacional Autonoma de Mexico. Galeria Aristos, 1975], 1975. ---. 10 Mujeres y Textil en 3d/10 Women and Textile Into 3. [Mexico City, Mexico: Universidad Nacional Autonoma de Mexico. Galeria Aristos, 1975], 1975. ---. 100 Jahre J. Hecking; Buntspinnerei und Weberei. Wiesbaden, Verlag f?r Wirtschaftspublizistik Bartels, 1958. ---. 100 Years of Native American Arts: Six Washington Cultures. [Tacoma, Washington: Tacoma Art Museum, 1988], 1988. ---. 1000 [i.e. Mil] Años de Tejido en la Argentina: [Exposici?n] 24 de Mayo Al 18 Junio de 1978. Buenos Aires: Ministerio de Cultura y Educaci?n, Secretaría de Cultura, Instituto Nacional de Antropología, 1978. ---. 1000 Years of Art in Poland. [London, Great Britain: Royal Academy of Arts, 1970], 1970. ---. 101 Ways to Weave Better Cloth: Selected Articles of Proven Interest to Weavers Chosen from the Pages of Textile Industries. Atlanta, GA.: Textile Indistries, 1960. ---. 125 Jahre Mech. Baumwoll-Spinnerei und Weberei, Augsburg. [Augsburg, 1962. ---. 1977 HGA Education Directory. West Hartford, CT: Handweavers Guild of America, 1978. ---. 1982 Census of Manufactures. Preliminary Report Industry Series. Weaving Mills. [Washington, DC: U.S. Dept. of Commerce, Bureau of, 1984. ---. 1987 Census of Manufactures. Industry Series. Weaving and Floor Covering Mills, Industries 2211, 2221, 2231, 2241, and 2273. Washington, DC: U.S. Dept. of Commerce, Bureau of, 1990. ---. 1987 Census of Manufactures. Preliminary Report. Industry Series. Weaving and Floor Covering Mills: Industries 2211, 2221, 2241, and 2273. [Washington, DC: U.S. Dept. of Commerce, Bureau of, 1994. ---. 1992 Census of Manufactures. -
BFA Course Catalog 13-14
13 — 2013‐14 CCS UNDERGRADUATE CATALOG Page 1 TABLE OF CONTENTS INFORMATION AND POLICIES 2013-2015 Academic Calendar ................................................................................................................ 40 Academic Advising and Registration......................................................................................................... 23 Academic Policies ..................................................................................................................................... 30 Admissions .................................................................................................................................................. 6 Board of Trustees ................................................................................................................................... 162 Community Arts Partnerships ..................................................................................................................... 3 Continuing Education .................................................................................................................................. 3 Faculty and Administration ...................................................................................................................... 160 Financial Aid ............................................................................................................................................. 13 Special Programs ..................................................................................................................................... -
Ikat, Kasuri and E-Gasuri Background and Techniques by Jeffrey Krauss
Ikat, Kasuri and E-gasuri Background and Techniques by Jeffrey Krauss [Originally presented at the opening of the exhibition of antique picture kasuri (Japanese term for ikat) textiles from the collection of Jeffrey Krauss, which took place June 12, 2006 at the Japan Information and Culture Center, Washington DC.] Introduction Kasuri 絣 is the Japanese name for the resist dyeing technique called ikat (pronounced ee-kaht) in other parts of the world. Threads were bundled and portions of the thread bundles were covered with dye-resistant material so that the dye could not penetrate ("resist-dyed") before the fabric was woven. After unbundling, the dyed and undyed edges don’t line up exactly in the weaving process, resulting in a blurred or “splashed” effect. Both in Japan and throughout the world, ikat or kasuri-dyed textile designs were most often abstract or geometric. But in Japan, craftsmen developed the skill of making picture kasuri (e-gasuri 絵絣). Futon covers, sleeping blankets and jackets carried woven pictures of auspicious symbols, signs of prosperity and longevity: pine, bamboo and plum blossoms; cranes and tortoises; lobsters; paulownia leaves; noshi; gods like Daikoku, Hotei and Ebisu; legends and legendary figures like Takasago (legend of an old married couple), Daruma (the father of Zen Buddhism) and Shojo (fantastic underwater creatures); and fantastic devices like treasure bags, magic jewels and wish-granting mallets. Resist Dyeing Techniques Resist dyeing is a patterning technique in which sections of the warp threads, the weft threads or the woven cloth are covered or reserved, in order to prevent dye from penetrating. -
REGISTRATION FORM | 866-554-8559 March 1–4, 2012
WWW.SEWEXPO.COM MANAGED BY: 866-554-8559 FASHION SEWING SHOPPING! SEMINARS! WORKSHOPS! SHOWS! STARS! 1 Sewing & SewingStitchery & Stitchery expo • February expo • march 25 - 128,–4, 20102012 NEEDLE EXPLanation We have SO many classes, seminars, and teaching events, we hope this “needle graphic” is helpful as you look at the many options available to you and choose your favorites. 2012 SEMINAR AND CLASS DESCRIPTIONS ONE-NEEDLE SEMINARS These traditional lecture/demo seminars are the hallmark DateS & TIMES of the Sewing & Stitchery Expo. Time: 45 minutes Gates open ............................................. 8:00 am Cost: $5 in advance. $6 at the show March 1, 2, 3 ....................... 8:00 am–6:00 pm TWO NEEDLE SEMINARS March 4 (Sunday) ............... 8:00 am–4:00 pm These classes will be presented in a lecture-demo for- Hands-On Seminars begin ..................... 8:00 am mat. Each class will teach a complete project or a spe- cific technique—and an extensive, educational handout In-Depth Seminars begin ....................... 8:00 am will be part of the class. Seminars Begin ....................................... 8:30 am Time: 1 hour 30 minutes Vendors Open ......................................... 8:30 am Cost: $20 THREE NEEDLE SEMINARS Students signing up for this class expect to learn a sew- TABLE OF CONTENTS ing and/or embellishing technique through a hands-on learning experience. Time: 2 hours 30 minutes Special Events ..................................................... 1 Cost: $30 One Needle Seminars ......................................... 2 Kit Fees: (See class descriptions) Two Needle Seminars ....................................... 18 Sewing Machine No Sewing Class (Machine Machine Three Needle Seminars .................................... 21 Provided) Class Four Needle Seminars........................................31 FOUR NEEDLE SEMINARS Style Shows ....................................................... 36 These classes are the half-day classes that take place Free Stage Shows .............................................