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5.3-Gupta,M 2:Layout 1 4/9/07 10:58 Page 314 5.3-Gupta,M 2:Layout 1 4/9/07 10:58 Page 314 Extreme fashion: Pushing the boundaries of design, technology and business 314 Fashion education – fast forward Mona Gupta Abstract The audience views some exquisitely created textiles from India and some basic questions are placed before them, followed by a case study of the Indian Kota Doria fabric. This prelude brings forth the grim reality of the textile and clothing industry today, in India and many other nations. The multiplicity of markets and insatiable consumer wants has already necessitated a faster pace and with the advent of machines, many of the hand skills have already subsided, thus severing these very basic links in this evolutionary supply chain of fashion. Where does this lead us? 1. The inevitable need for speed. 2. Spiralling prices and profits beyond an extreme, and yet the weaver perishes. 3. While the industry incomes are increasing the weaver and the workers survive in near, and even extreme, sweat shop conditions. 4. Classroom-educated fashionists still cannot replace the real creator, for even the most basic skills are often waived and paid as low sklled tasks. Hence, the apprehension that the extreme nature of the runaway fashion industry is leading to an ‘appar’theid’ of an extreme kind – in terms of income, education and social implications. So is it a case of human sensitivities, or there is a hardcore practical business strategy underlying this whole exercise for the fashion industry? We thus conducted a survey, which proves the latter. And with this backdrop, the paper moves on to elucidate our strategy for the future. Is strategy all about low costs, or more about making choices, and what is apt for the fashion industry? Thus where do we begin? If with fashion education, then what should be the USP of fashion education in the future? Keywords: fashion education, Introduction fast forward, As we currently are in the 21st century, on the one hand ‘tech-savvy’ a USP for future words like WAP, LAN, CAD-CAM, ISP and ‘dotcoms’ rule the world, and 5.3-Gupta,M 2:Layout 1 4/9/07 10:58 Page 315 Fashion education on the other corporate policy sees a transformation from global 315 marketing to rural hubs, and bottom lines seek to graduate from profit metrics to CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility). The power is shifting from the Western blocs to the ‘Asian tigers’ and the textile sector is hobbling under the post-MFA (Multi Fibre Arrangement) seismic waves. The textile industry is one of the first to develop a link between fibre and fashion. It was once known for creative energies, craft ingenuity, cultural hues, religious sentiments, irreplicable skills and design devotion culminating in exquisite and high-quality commissioned clothing. Today textiles are a battle for livelihood, a war between the ‘haves’ and the ‘have-nots’, and a race against time for supply. Be it the songkets of Indonesia, kasuri of Japan or the 120s-count cotton mills of India, these are textiles which have been and are known and recognised for their employment generation and export earnings, and have given to each country its recognition in the world of fashion. This article deals with this very humane and sensitive aspect of the value chain of the textile and clothing industry, and has drawn the attention of several researchers, policy makers and experts who have incessantly tried to awaken human sensitivities, yet today the fate of those possessing these hand skills is hanging by a thread. Hence this paper, with great deliberation, tries to avoid echoing any sentiments, but instead voices a business strategy for the industry’s quest for returns. Prelude In the words of John Gillow, “No other land enjoys such a profusion of creative energies for the production of textiles as the sub continent of India.” The audience thus views some exquisitely created textiles from India not just unique to our country, but a future for global fashion, and some questions are asked. Our questions: 1. Do we wish to wear these in some form or another? 2. What price can we pay for these? 3. According to you, what portion of this goes to the weaver or other skilled or semi skilled workers in the value chain? 4. Would you like to do them in a dark sweaty home-cum-workshop with near-survival conditions? 5.3-Gupta,M 2:Layout 1 4/9/07 10:58 Page 316 Extreme fashion: Pushing the boundaries of design, technology and business 316 5. Can we do it otherwise, and for how much? Innumerable original Indian textile weaves such as these are extinct, either because tradition or transmission has not been revived, or because they have not been able to adjust to the pace of transformation. With the onslaught of the power loom, shortened supply chains and a fast moving fashion industry, many important fine cotton-weaving centres have gone into oblivion, or been replaced by the power loom. Except, that is, for a few, which remain a visual reality, and along with them the lesser-known and less-understood skills. A gift of the nineteenth-century, Kota Doria faces extinction. A case study of Kota Doria Kota fabric from Rajasthan in Western India is one such exception, and it is struggling for existence. This fabric is known for its corded effects by cramming the warp and the weft threads in an affixed count and pattern. The cluster produces a wide range of fabric with extra weft motifs and borders in the form of a traditional Indian wear called the five-yard wonder – a sari. It also produces some apparel fabric and stoles. The product is either a simple fine cotton netted fabric (with the sheer pattern of cording exemplified) or is fine gossamer of cotton or gold threads interspersed with delicate motifs suited for niche markets. The value chain analysis Let us examine the value chain of this product. For the purpose of our analysis, three different product categories have been considered: • A prêt (daily) wear sold through the traditional marketing network with the design inputs from the weaver himself. (Diagram1) • A mid-end product marketed through a city retailer where the directions related to design and colors are given by the retailer. (Diagram 2) • A high-end designer product commissioned and sold by the designer, who also provides specifications such as layout and construction, besides colors and pattern. (Diagram 3, overleaf) Stakes are assumed to be equal to incomes earned and investments in raw material, capital, etc. in this analysis. 5.3-Gupta,M 2:Layout 1 4/9/07 10:58 Page 317 Fashion education Designing (Graphics) and other Weave Trader: raw material purchase, 317 production activities. Weaving design idea, dealing with the market: the border etc: Rs 200/sari Reported margin 5%=Rs 40/- Value: Rs 627 Value: Rs 867 Dyeing: Rs 20 Wholesaling Costs at 3% Total Value: Rs 827.00 Value: Rs 607 Value: Rs/- Person Days: 3 days for one sari that is 5.5 mts Informal Retailing Seizing Rs 5 (827 - 600=227/pc)- Costs - Transport Rs 70/ per day for the Handlling – 15% Rs133/- Value: Rs 602 whole family Value: Rs 602 Warping Rs2.00 Raw material from the Trader Cotton; silk; gold thread TO THE CONSUMER Value: Rs 600 Diagram 1. Designing (Graphics) and other production Weave Trader: raw material purchase, activities. Weaving the border etc: design idea, dealing with the market: Rs 500/ sari (Rs 1.0 per Motif) Reported margin 10-15%=Rs 215/- Value: Rs 925 Value: Rs 1540 Dyeing: Rs 25 Wholesaling Costs at 10% Rs 164 Total Value: Rs 1425 Value: Rs 900 Value: Rs 1804 Person Days: 5-6 days for one sari that is 5.5 mts Retailing Costs - Seizing Rs 7 (1425–575/pc)= Design, marketing Rs 115 per day for the etc - 50% Rs 900.00 Value: Rs 853 whole family Value: Rs 2704/ Warping Rs3 Raw material from the Trader Cotton; silk; gold thread VALUE TO THE CONSUMER Value: Rs 850 Diagram 2. 5.3-Gupta,M 2:Layout 1 4/9/07 10:58 Page 318 Extreme fashion: Pushing the boundaries of design, technology and business Designing (Graphics) and other 318 Weaver (MASTER): Raw material production activities. Weaving purchase, Design idea – sampling. the border etc: Rs 1000/-sari Value: NA Value: NA Dyeing: Transportation & Handling Costs Value: NA Total Value: Rs 2000/- Value: NA Person Days: 6 days for one sari that is 5.5 meters Retailing Costs - Seizing (2000-1000)= Design, marketing Rs 166 per day for etc – 100% Rs2000/- the whole family Value: Value: Rs 4000/- Warping Design provided by the designer VALUE TO THE CONSUMER or retailer Raw material purchased by the Master Weaver FOR A DESIGNED PRODUCT -Cotton; silk; gold thread Value: Rs 1000/- Diagram 3. Analysis of the value chain These value chains were analysed with respect to three metrics of value addition: the financial stakes of each stakeholder; the person days; and the incomes earned and the parity between them. They also reveal some non-monetary metrics such as the nature, strengths and weaknesses of the links. This analysis is in percentage terms to enable an easy understanding. The following bar charts correspond to the three value chains shown in the previous pages. The highlights here are: 1. While the weaver and his family are the largest stakeholder in terms of person day involvement and value of the stakes, his earnings are at the least rather unsustainable and below living conditions; 2. The Master Trader or middle-man (who is yet another main stakeholder) also earns less than living wages.
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