Indian and Affaires indiennes Northern Affairs et du Nord Wild Rivers: Parks Canada Pares Canada Central British Columbia Published by Parks Canada under authority of the Hon. J. Hugh Faulkner, Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs, Ottawa, 1978 QS-7064-000-EE-A1

Les releves de la serie «Les rivieres sauvages» sont egalement publies en francais.

Canada Canada metric metrique Metric Commission Canada has granted use of the National Symbol for Metric Conversion. Wild Rivers: Central British Columbia

Wild Rivers Survey Parks Canada ARC Branch Planning Division Ottawa, 1978 2

Cariboo and Quesnel rivers: Ishpa Moun­ tain from Sandy Lake 3

'It is difficult to find in life any event and water, taken in the abstract, fail as which so effectually condenses intense completely to convey any idea of their nervous sensation into the shortest fierce embracings in the throes of a possible space of time as does the rapid as the fire burning quietly in a work of shooting, or running an im­ drawing-room fireplace fails to convey mense rapid. There is no toil, no heart the idea of a house wrapped and breaking labour about it, but as much sheeted in flames." coolness, dexterity, and skill as man can throw into the work of hand, eye Sir William Francis Butler (1872) and head; knowledge of when to strike and how to do it; knowledge of water and rock, and of the one hundred com­ binations which rock and water can assume — for these two things, rock 4

©Minister of Supply and Services Now available in the Wild River Metric symbols used in this book Canada 1978 series: mm — millimetre(s) Available by mail from Printing and Alberta m — metre(s) Publishing, Supply and Services Central British Columbia km — kilometre(s) Canada, Ottawa, K1A 0S9, or through James Bay/Hudson Bay km/h - kilometres per hour your bookseller. Quebec North Shore h - hour(s) Newfoundland and Labrador d - day(s) Catalogue No. R62-82/1978-7 Saskatchewan °C - degree Celsius ISBN: 0-660-10013-4 Yukon Territory

Price Canada: $1.50 Soon to be available: Price other countries: $1.80 Northwest Mountains Price subject to change without notice. The Barrenlands Southwestern Quebec and Eastern Ontario 5 Table of Contents

Foreword 6 4 Bowron River 37

Introduction 8 5 Chilcotin River 43 Climate 8 Planning the trip 9 6 Cariboo and Quesnel Rivers 51 Map of Wild Rivers of Central British Columbia 10 Further reading 60

1 Salmon River 11

2 Stuart and IMechako Rivers 19

3 West Road River 25 6 Foreword

Wild rivers are a priceless part of our Long before Europeans laid eyes on natural heritage. These waterways, them, these rivers served the native untouched by the march of man's peoples as vital sources of both food technological progress, are the arteries and transportation. Later, the rivers of our land, and one of the main ele­ were to carry the newly-arrived Euro­ ments in its growth to nationhood. peans on other voyages of exploration From the copper-coloured waterfalls and exploitation throughout the vast of the Labrador plateau, to the Cana­ interior of the continent. And the dian Shield's labyrinth of lakes and settlers who followed travelled the streams, to the glacial torrents cutting same routes. through the western mountains — wild The waterways were the mainstay rivers are all that remain unharnessed of the fur trade; they were the high­ of those waterways which first made it ways to the gold rushes. They did possible for this huge and varied coun­ much to provide the economic nourish­ try to be explored and developed. ment through which Canada grew to its present stature. With the advent of modern tech­ nology, some of our rivers were har­ nessed to serve our new found needs. But thousands of kilometres of water­ ways, and the land they pass through, remain essentially untouched. 7

Today, Canadians are gradually Parks Canada is promoting these But there is one other very important rediscovering these fascinating wild challenging voyages of discovery, point that you must bear in mind. rivers. They are seeing nature on its which embrace both the past and the "Wild" really is the correct adjective own terms - enjoying its works from present. Wild rivers are important to to describe many of the rivers, and only the vantage of its own highways. They Canadians as integral components of experienced and well-equipped canoe­ are recreating the adventures of the our founding heritages. ists should enter these waters. You explorers; struggling over the same However, a good deal of down-to- will find them a tremendous challenge. portages as the heavily-burdened earth information about the rivers and So it's up to you. Our land and our "coureurs de bois"; running rapids their habits is needed before anyone rivers are waiting for you to explore which once hurtled "voyageurs" and attempts to navigate them. It is for this and rediscover them. their precious cargoes towards the reason that Parks Canada decided to markets of Montreal; gently floating carry out surveys of wild rivers all down majestic rivers which once across the country. We are publishing carried thousands of anxious prospec­ the results of these surveys in the tors toward the promise of gold. present series of booklets, in order to provide a practical guide for the mo­ dern "voyageur". 8

Introduction Climate

The wild rivers of Central British Central British Columbia is an area of Columbia provide excellent recreation harsh extremes where weather condi­ opportunities for canoeists. In most tions can change dramatically within cases the upper reaches are accessi­ a few hours. The annual precipitation ble by road and the rivers, while pos­ averages between 23 cm and 51 cm sessing thrilling rapids and mountain and the summers are short, hot and scenery, do not generally require long dry, while the winters are long, cold portages. Moreover, although dis­ and wet. The average July temperature playing attributes of true wilderness is 13°C, but great variations are to these rivers are not impossibly remote be expected and frost can occur in any from centres of supply and assistance. month. The growing season, the num­ During the high water levels of ber of days on which the temperature June and early July the rivers are full, rises above 6°C ranges from 130 to fast and powerful, and extreme cau­ 170 d. However, summer frosts may tion is necessary to avoid log jams reduce the effectual growing season to occurring at sharp bends in the river. three or four weeks. The rivers usually Conversely, at lower water levels, from break up in early April and freeze in mid-July onward, obstacles in the mid-November. water may be uncovered or lie close to the surface. 9

Planning the trip

In planning a canoe trip, allow 25 km afterwards they should be extinguished In the more isolated regions an to 30 km per day paddling. Always completely with water, smothered with emergency survival kit is recommended. allow extra time and food for such sand or soil and stamped down firmly. The kit should contain high-energy unforeseen events as being wind- All garbage should be packed out with food rations, waterproofed matches, bound or delayed by rain. you. fishhooks and line, and emergency If egress is to be made by plan make A sturdy canoe capable of handling rescue flares for signalling aircraft. sure arrangements have been made well in rapids plus equipment for its These items should be well water­ before you begin the trip. repair are essential. Aluminum canoes proofed; if the kit is small it can be Be sure to check in with some were used throughout the wild rivers worn on your belt. Firearms are never responsible agency (the R.C.M.P., the surveys and proved most practical. necessary. British Columbia Ministry of Forests Since lining and hauling are often or Ministry of Recreation and Conser­ necessary, lengths of strong rope are Warning vation), giving them your route and essential. Several pairs of high-cut Sweepers, log jams and some chan­ expected time of arrival. Do not forget running shoes or other sturdy foot­ nels are a constant and changing haz­ to check out with them at the end of wear, which can take the abuse of ard. Unlike permanent hazards, such the trip. rocks and constant wetness are also as rapids and waterfalls, their pres­ Permits for fires and fishing may be needed. ence cannot be reliably documented required. Extreme caution should be in reports of this type. exercised in the use of fire. Campfires Canoeists should be alert to these should be built on rock or sand only; dangers which are more prevalent dur­ ing periods of high water. 10

The National Topographic maps are available from: Canada Map Office Room 147 615 Booth Street Ottawa, Ontario K1A0E9 11

1 Salmon River 12

Salmon River Access and egress Maps required

Great Beaver Lake to Salmon Access by road is possible to a point a (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) Valley Bridge few kilometres below Great Beaver 93 J McLeod Lake Lake, by following the Salmon River Length Road to a wilderness hunting camp on 5 to 8 d (168 km) the Salmon River. This same road 9 to 12 portages crosses the Salmon River just above the confluence with the Muskeg River, Date of survey and provides an access point for July 9 to 13, 1973 three-day trip through the finest portion of the river. Float planes may land on Great Beaver Lake, and this access point is best for a plane base. The best egress point from the Salmon River is the Salmon Valley Bridge, which crosses the river 13 km upstream from the confluence with the Fraser River. 13

About the river

Geography Throughout the upper portion of the Flora The Salmon River flows through the river the view is rather confined by well- The Salmon River area lies within the interior plateau region of British Co­ developed meanders and tall spruce Montane Forest Region of British lumbia. The northern segment of the rising 20 m on either bank. In the lower Columbia. Lodgepole pine, Douglas river is a glacial deposition area with segment, the river flows through fir and spruce dominate the higher, extensive drumlin formations and clay- several channels and there is thus a well-drained slopes, while at the north­ associated tills. The lower portion of much broader valley and a better view ern end of the river balsam fir begins the river is thought to have been in­ of the surrounding landscape. Below to appear. In the lower, poorly drained cluded in an extensive glacial lake, the Muskeg River there is an almost sections of the river valley, thickets and stratified layers of clays are continuous series of gravel bars, fast of aspen and willow are common, and visible where the river has eroded high water, rapids and high sandy or strati­ along the river banks there are large cliffs. From Great Beaver Lake moun­ fied clay cliffs. The river often forms stands of cottonwood and poplar. tains are visible, but once on the river a braided pattern with narrow and the rather flat tablelands predominate. shallow passageways. Occasionally, low glacier-formed ridges may be seen from the river. 14

Fauna the golden- and bald-eagles which are All the game fish found in the Salmon numerous in the vicinity of Great River belong to the salmonoid family. Beaver Creek. Osprey can also be The most common member of this seen. The Salmon River valley sup­ family found in these waters is the ports a large population of moose and rainbow trout, although the Dolly mule deer. Other large mammals are Varden is also present. In Great Beaver black- and grizzly-bears. Lake, lake trout and kokanee, a species of landlocked salmon, are found. The most common birds along the Salmon River are Canada geese, while other waterfowl include mergansers and harlequin ducks. More spectacular are 15

The canoe trip

Great Beaver Lake to Muskeg River This 59 km segment of the Salmon River is considerably slower than that below Muskeg River, and there are numerous meanders and many ex­ amples of bow lakes and scars. Drain­ ing Great Beaver Lake, Great Beaver Creek begins in a weed-clogged bay midway down the east shore at an Indian Reserve. After an initial two kilometres of meanders. Great Beaver Creek straightens out and there are a few riffles on the five-metre wide channel. The width of the Salmon River at the confluence with Great Beaver Creek, is about 15 m, but later varies between 25 m and 10 metres.

Salmon River, 16 km above the Muskeg River 16

Two point five kilometres below the short jam of about 14 m in length, but Three kilometres upstream from the entrance of Great Beaver Creek is the it is bypassed by a brook 23 m up­ entrance of the Muskeg River, the first log jam of any considerable size. stream on the right. Two kilometres speed of the water increases and more A single log lying across the river, below, yet another jam is encountered, caution is required. A logged-jover 180 m upstream from the main jam which requires a 36 m carry on the left area, lumber road, and bridge across marks the beginning of a 250 m port­ shore. The fifth jam, requiring a portage, the Salmon River indicate the approach age on the right bank. By climbing a is situated 13 km below Great Beaver of the Muskeg River. This can be an small hill on the bank, one can follow Creek at the entrance of a small stream "alternative starting point for a canoe an old game trail to the end of the on the left bank. The portage is 80 m trip down the Salmon River. jam. Two point five kilometres further, long and is located on the left bank. a short carry of 18 m is required to One point five kilometres beyond the pass a log jam. The carry can be made mouth of the Boundary River is an out­ on either side. One point five kilo­ fitter's camp, below which three partial metres below this small jam is another log jams are located at five, 10 and 17 km intervals. The first may be passed on the right and the second and third on the left. 17

Muskeg River to Salmon Valley Bridge Ten kilometres below the Muskeg River, the first major log jam of this section is encountered on a bend in the river. A carry of 160 m along the right shore is the best bypass. During periods of shallow water the carry can be shortended to 90 m for one can then cross an area of sandbars. Thirteen kilometres downstream is the second log jam of the section, vir­ tually consisting of two separate jams. The first may be bypassed by a 135 m carry along the left bank to a small creek which is actually a small, di­ verted channel of the river made some­ what difficult by the dense low willow growth.

Sand cliffs on lower Salmon River 18

The channel, one kilometre long, The channel is free-flowing for the canoe in the left channel and canoeing bypasses the second part of the log next 275 m where another small log 90 m to the next jam. A 75 m carry jam which would otherwise require a jam demands an 18 m carry. Caution across an island covered with logs 55 m portage. At the entrance of Doc's should be exercised in this fast cur­ brings one to the end of the jam. The Creek, the speed of the river increases rent. Ninety metres below this, the left river now increases in speed, featuring and the river becomes shallower, caus­ channel continues unobstructed for shallow rapids which can be run when ing riffled sections of water. The next seventeen kilometres. the water level is high enough. In this log jam is three kilometres below the The next log jam begins about 6.5 section there are also a number of entrance of Crocker Creek, where the km below a new logging bridge. The potentially hazardous sharp turns, and river splits into two channels, both best course to bypass this jam is a lining or short carries along the ad­ completely jammed. This portage re­ 300 m carry on the left to a small creek. jacent gravel bars may be necessary. quires scouting for a suitable route. A Cross this divergent channel and carry The trip terminates at the Salmon possible route begins on the right side for a further 18 m below the jam, and Valley Bridge on the John Hart High­ of the channel on the island: a 41 5 m then follow a fast and narrow stream way, less than a kilometre from the carry through a tall cottonwood forest, into the main channel. 10 km further community of Salmon Valley. an open fern area, and a small slough down the river, the beginning of the to the far side of the island, will place last major log jam is marked by two one in the right channel, which is logs crossing the river about 90 m open. Although a long portage, this upstream from the main jam. The best carry is quite easy as there is no under­ portage is along an old logging road growth except at the end of the carry. on the left shore, which one should follow for 290 m before placing the 19

2 Stuart and Nechako Rivers 20

Stuart and IMechako rivers Access and egress Maps required

Fort St. James to Prince George Fort St. James may be reached by (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) taking Highway 16 from Prince George 93 G Prince George Length west to Vanderhoof and then Highway 93 J McLeod Lake 3 to 5 d (192 km) 27 to Fort St. James. Cars may be left 93 K Fort Fraser 4 short portages with the R.C.M.P. or at the marina in Fort St. James. Prince George is the Date of survey point of egress. Early July 1973 21

About the river

Geography glacial till arranged in rolling ridges Flora The Stuart-Nechako River system lies and hills. Bedrocks is visible only The Stuart and Nechako rivers lie in on a rolling plateau, bounded in the where the river has cut deeply into the the Montane Forest Region of the In­ east by the Coast Mountains, and on till. Terraces bounded by low ridges terior Plateau. The tree cover in this the southeast by the Cariboo Moun­ are present in the initial portion of the area consists of spruce, lodgepole tains. The Omineco Mountains and Stuart River, while on the lower por­ pine and scattered Douglas fir. In the Rocky Mountains lie to the north and tion high ridges and v-shaped valleys transition Montane Region there are east. The Interior Plateau attains are predominant. Sand bluffs are com­ also some blue fir. A large part of the elevations of 1 200 m at Prince mon along the upper Stuart occuring river is lined with aspen growth, for George, but the Nechako River itself on the outside of river bends. As the the area has been burnt. Known as the flows through a flat-bottomed basin Stuart approaches the Nechako, Northern Aspen Section it provides 300 m lower than the surface of the several series of rapids are formed, food and shelter for moose and deer. plateau. The basin is believed to have exposing sandstone conglomerates. These thickets are mixed with poplars been formed by a glacial lake, which Large conglomerate boulders have and a few cottonwoods. has resulted in deposits of thick fallen into the river, and low cliffs of layered clays and silts. These materials clay, sandstone, and conglomerates may have been eroded by the river, line the river banks. Low ridges bound and often form bluffs. The surface the Nechako. Several bluffs up to 60 m topography throughout the Stuart- high have formed and are typical Nechako River region consists of loose throughout the Nechako, especially in the lower portion. There are, however, segments of broad valley flats where the Nechako meanders in its lower course. 22

Fauna The most common large game seen History Rainbow trout and Dolly Varden, in­ are moose, mule deer, black bear and This area was originally inhabited by habit all parts of the system, while lake the occasional grizzly bear. Wolves Carrier Indians, who named the trout and kokanee are found only in and coyotes also inhabit the area. Elk Nechako River 'Incha-khoh' meaning the larger lakes. There is a run of are making a slow comeback in the "Big River". In July of 1806, Simon spring salmon and steelhead in late region but are very rare. Furbearing Fraser, accompanied by John Stuart, May and June, and a run of sockeye animals are abundant and include paddled up the Nechako and Stuart salmon in late July and early August. beaver, fisher, fox, lynx, marten, mink, Rivers to Nakazleh, where a few The carp family includes the so-called muskrat, otter, weasel and wolverine. months before James McDougal had 'coarse fish' of the interior — suckers, been the first white man to set eyes on squawfish and mountain whitefish. what is now called Stuart Lake. At this Canada geese, mergansers and time there was an Indian camp at harlequin ducks are common sights Beaver Creek on the shore opposite the to the canoeist. Ospreys, kingfishers, present site of Fort St. James. Fraser golden- and bald-eagles and black had been instructed by McDougal to terns fish and scavenge the rivers. Cliff build a fort, which, thereafter bore the swallows and warblers nest on the name of Stuart Lake Post until 1873 banks and on the higher ground, back when it was renamed Fort St. James from the river willows and Franklin after Sir James Douglas, chief trader grouse are common. of Fort Vancouver. For more than 50 years this fort was the centre of ad­ ministration and the capital of New Caledonia. It is estimated that Stuart Lake was populated by 1 000 Indians at this time. 23

The canoe trip

Stuart Lake to Chinochey Creek Chinochey Creek to the Nechako It consists of two sections: the first The Stuart River drains Stuart Lake at River can be run on either side to avoid the Fort St. James. Upon entering the river Below the entrance of the Chinochey high standing waves in the centre of one must pass under a highway bridge Creek, the river bends to the south the channel. At low water a great deal and then pass a lumber mill on the and the speed of the water increases. of manoeuvring would be necessary right shore one kilometre below the Upstream from the Saxton Creek, there to negotiate a course between the bridge. A short rapid, 360 m below the are four sections of fast and rather boulders. The other section comprises mill is separated into two channels by rough water as the river rounds four a series of ledges. At high water, the an island. At high water, the right successive bends. The best route is to right side of the river is the best channel is the better to run, and for the the inside of each turn, thereby avoid­ course, while at low water this rapid next 67 km the river is quite slow and ing the standing waves on the outside. could be very dangerous and would presents no problems. Along this Below Saxton Creek, the speed of the have to be carefully examined before stretch of river the best campsites are water increases. There are four rapids running. generally found in meadows and on between Saxton Creek and the Below this the Stuart runs swiftly abandoned farm property. Nechako River. The first two are for 5.5 km to the Nechako River. An around bends of the river, where the excellent campsite on the right shore inner course is the best. The third embankment marks the site of an old rapid, long and very difficult, begins Carrier Indian village. seven kilometres up the Stuart River from the Nechako as the river widens. 24

Stuart-IMechako Confluence an island, and the channel along the best route, however one must be ex­ to Prince George left shore, is the best route to run. tremely wary of the boils and back The confluence is marked by high sand The third rapid is also divided by an eddies at the bottom of each of these cliffs. The Nechako is slower than the island and again the left channel is ledges. Fast water studded with boul­ Stuart for the first few kilometres, but the safest route. The third section ders continues for five kilometres. The the speed of the river gradually in­ which begins with a series of log piles rest of the river gradually slows down creases. No rough water was encoun­ is one kilometre farther down the river. as Prince George is approached. tered until five kilometres above Isle Five point kilometres below the train Scattered houses and a sawmill mark de Pierre Rapids, where the river nar­ stop at Nichol is a section of rough fast the approach to the city. rows just before it turns south. This water which is best run on the right. rapid is composed of four distinct The next rapid encountered is White- ledges. The right side of the river is mud Rapid, also in three parts. The the best run. One point five kilometres first section begins-as the river bears below the ferry-crossing are the Isle right. During high water the extreme de Pierre Rapids, which consist of left hand side of the river is the best three parts: the first two rapids are route. At low water, the extreme right 90 m apart. The river is separated by side would be better. One point five kilometres farther, a strenuous rapid consisting of two ledges is encoun­ tered. The right side of the river is the 25

3 West Road River 26

West Road River Access and egress

Eliguk Lake to Lower Blackwater Highway and road networks allow a practical alternative, then Eliguk Bridge access to the major portion of the Lake is the best access point. From West Road River (locally known as the there, one can paddle the entire length Length Blackwater). Furthermore, cart-and of the river. Tsacha Lake as a starting 7 to 10 d (208 km) horse-trails parallel the river system point would include all of the finest 15 to 22 portages throughout its length, so that the head­ scenery of the river, yet avoid the waters may be readily accessible by rather difficult portages and rapids Date of survey four-wheel drive vehicles. Although found upstream. Quesnel is the ter­ mid-July 1973 the upper segment of the river is best minal for float plane access. Egress is reached by float-plane, a less costly by road at the Lower Blackwater alternative would be to truck into the Bridge. Euchiniko Lake area, thereby avoiding several arduous portages in the upper segment of the Blackwater. If flying is 27

Maps required About the river

(N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) Geography interesting bedrock surfaces. The sur­ 93 C Anahim Lake The headwaters of the Blackwater are rounding ridges are quite pronounced 93 F Nechako River fed by snow-melt and spring water and provide a scenic backdrop before 93 G Prince George from the conical extinct volcanoes of the river finally plunges down to the llgachuz Range which rise 1 000 m Tsacha Lake. Tsacha Lake is bordered above the plateau surface. The river by hills composed of loose glacial till then flows for 280 km, dropping from overlying volcanic flows, and the a little over 1 000 m to less than plateau surface itself is marked by 600 m above sea level at the lower many drumlins. The river then flows Fraser confluence. In general, local through a series of rapids and canyons. drainage is poor, partly owing to the Blocky lava flows have been cut diverse terrain. The surrounding to­ through by the river, and the result is pography changes dramatically a very interesting cliff structure. After throughout the length of the Black- the confluence with the Euchiniko water River. Near Eliguk Lake, the River, the Blackwater cuts deeply snow-capped peaks of the llgachuz through the lava flows to meet the Range come into view. The terrain Fraser. There are frequent clay and adjacent to the river is rather flat and gravel cliffs, and before the lower monotonous for the initial segment, Blackwater Bridge, a river segment then as the river flows beyond the characterized by shallow gravel bars marshy flats, it drops rapidly, exposing and a broad flat plain. The river bed material is glacial rather than volcanic as in other portions. 28

Flora Fauna The most common species of large The Blackwater basin lies in the Mon­ Fishing in the Blackwater River ranges birds encountered in the Blackwater tane (Cariboo Parkland) Forest Region, from good to excellent. The major area are the bald eagle, the osprey, characterized by a mixture of grass­ species of game fish is rainbow trout and, to a lesser extent, the golden land and light forest, mainly lodge- ranging in weight from 1.5 kg to 3.5 kg, eagle. Smaller bird species include pole pine, aspen, willow and Douglas which may be caught almost anywhere cliff swallows, terns, robins, Canada fir. The moist grassy areas are usually in the drainage basin. Dolly Varden are jays and warblers. Canada geese, mer­ associated with depressions formed also present, but in fewer numbers. gansers and black ducks are a com­ by lake eutrophication, but dry grass­ Lake trout and kokanee (landlocked mon sight along the river. The chief lands having a high grazing and brow­ salmon) are present in the deeper lakes. mammals of the Blackwater area are sing value are also common. In addition to these game fish, the moose, mule deer, black- and grizzly- river also supports some species of bears, beavers, fishers, otters, minks, "coarse fish": squawfish, suckers and martens, wolverines, wolves, foxes whitefish. The first are most numerous and coyotes. and may be caught as easily as rain­ bow trout. Small runs of spring- and History sockeye-salmon up the Blackwater Alexander Mackenzie gave the name occur in late May and early July, but "West.Road' to the river and walked fishing for these is illegal. along an Indian trade route to its headwaters and over the coast moun­ tains, reaching Betnick Inlet near the present town of Bella Coola on July 22, 1793. In so doing he became the first European to traverse the continent. 29

The canoe trip

Eliguk Lake to Tsacha Lake Eliguk Lake is drained by Ulgako Creek which forms a small lake before join­ ing the Blackwater which flows from the south. The 2.5 km section of the Ulgako from Eliguk Lake to the smaller unnamed lake is too shallow and too narrow to canoe and therefore must be portaged along a wagon trail on the left. The channel widens as Ulgako Creek meets the headwaters of the Blackwater, and as the water volume increases larger rocks and silt are found on the stream bed. The water is dark brown almost black. Below the Blackwater-Ulgako confluence the river continues to be very narrow and shal­ low, but canoeists have eight kilo­ metres of quiet water before the first

Boulder riffle on upper Blackwater River, 13 km below Eliguk Lake 30

fast water is encountered. Here the pioneer farm operation on the right The river meanders through a broad river runs through some extremely shore, and a little farther a series of valley flat and then again changes rocky narrow sections where the depth rock gardens and small ledges which character as it enters a straight, of the water varies from five centi­ continue for four kilometres and are rapidly-flowing eight-kilometre metres to 20 cm in mid-July. Between immediately followed by two short course. The river drops steeply and these sections there are deeper pools, waterfalls. Portages bypassing the there are numerous large rocks on the with rocks and gravel on the stream waterfalls can be easily made on the stream bed. The first two rapids in this bed, and often a thick growth of algae. right shore, the first being 100 m and section, 275 metres apart, both require Nineteen kilometres after Eliguk Lake, the second 55 m. Almost 180 m be­ portages. The first is along the left Carnlick Creek enters the Blackwater low the last waterfall is a strong chute shore for 90 m and the second along and the river undergoes a distinct which may be run down the centre. the right shore through 82 m of willow change in character. The cooler green Below this chute are two rock gardens brush. No trails exist. Both of these waters of the Carnlick Creek increase that require precise manoeuvring and rapids have a lower half which can be the width, depth and velocity of the a rapid that should be run down the run after careful examination. main river. The stream bed material left channel. now consists mainly of gravel and rocks, and the water is very clear. One point five kilometres below the entrance of Carnlick Creek there is a 31

The river then flows through a is a 180 m rapid. At high water nearly Canoeing in this segment of the canyon about 900 m long with sheer all of this section is unnavigable and river requires considerable skill, walls of exposed basalt bedrock. At must be portaged for a kilometre on especially in low water during the late the end of the canyon there is a 15m the right. The river changes its char­ summer. Canoeists must be pre­ drop over a falls and a series of rock acter yet again as it enters a broad pared to haul their canoe through ex­ terraces. At Tsacha, one of the out­ meandering section 6.5 km long before tremely shallow water at times and to standing features of the trip, the river Tsacha Lake. The high ridges following manoeuvre through rock gardens. widens sixty metres. A 450 m portage the river become more visible but the Portages are strenuous and often lead and game trail on the right side by­ valley is still several hundred metres through thick undergrowth, where passes the ledges and the spectacular wide. The current has slowed consider­ there are no trails. Because of the 12m waterfall. Below the falls there ably and the river becomes quite shal­ extensive marshlands and undergrowth are three more impassable ledges low before the lake. in the area between Eliguk and Tsacha surrounded by rapids. To bypass these Lakes, campsites must be found on the canoes must be hauled 365 m along high grassy banks. the right shore. The last ledge is di­ vided by an island, below which there 32

Tsacha Lake to Euchiniko Lakes bank. After a short paddle through This portion of the lakes segment This 56 km segment is basically com­ some shallow rapids, the speed of the offers some impressive scenery, as posed of two large lakes, joined by a water increases and there occurs a 150 m to 300 m ridges border the difficult section of river. Tsacha Lake series of six ledges running through north shores. The slopes are largely is 19 km long and is the broadest body a canyon. After scouting, the first four open and meadows have bedrock ex­ of water on the Blackwater route. ledges can be run, but a safer alter­ posures with poplar growths in the Throughout its length, massive hills native is a 430 m carry along the right lower portions, while pine and spruce may be viewed in all directions and shore that bypasses all six ledges. line the peaks. The hills along the snow-capped mountains seen to the Downstream, four chutes follow, the south shore rolling and densely southwest, thus adding an alpine com­ first of which is the most difficult and covered with pine, are not as specta­ ponent to the scenery. The vegetation should be run left of centre. The sec­ cular. Because the Euchiniko Lakes are along the shores is predominantly ond, third and fourth are relatively consistently narrow, a river character spruce and birch. A small cabin at the easy. Following this last chute there is prevails, but the weed-choked shallows end of Tsacha Lake marks the begin­ a short series of rapids followed by a clearly define the water's velocity, and ning of an extended series of rapids. four metre waterfall. A 180 m portage, indeed in the long shallow sections of Below the lake there is a two metre up a steep bank on the right and along weed-infested waters paddling is ledge and falls which must be by­ a game trail, bypasses a rapid and the laborious. passed along a 75 m trail on the right fall itself. Below the falls there are two rapids that can be run after careful scouting, or avoided by continuing the portage for another 180 m. A short section of meanders precedes entry into the Euchiniko Lakes. 33

Euchiniko Lake to Euchiniko River Beavers have constructed several Lake outflow point. The portage around Confluence lodges on these pools. Kluskoil Lake is the falls is 365 m long and begins on This segment of the river is 78 km the final major body of water of the the left shore 60 m above the falls. long and stretches from the eastern Blackwater system, and is similar in The trail utilizes part of the road run­ end of Euchiniko Lake, through nature to the lower end of Euchiniko ning alongside the river before cutting Kluskoil Lake, and downstream to the Lake. The left shore offers many more down below the falls. confluence of the Blackwater and opportunities for camping due to the The river then flows through a series Euchiniko rivers. At medium and low open poplar and grassland area. The of rock gardens, and over several water levels, the river throughout this Blackwater River then tumbles over smaller ledges that require walking or section is characterized by shallow a series of ledges and short rapids carrying the canoes at low water. rock gardens, low banks and a frequent connected by deeper pools of slow- However, at high water there are some division of channels. moving water. This terraced character extremely dangerous rapids and ledges The initial portion from Euchiniko offers both challenging canoeing and that must be portaged. The pools found Lake to Kluskoil Lake is a fairly diffi­ attractive scenery. There is a series of between these rapids have often cult one to paddle, but no portages are falls and ledges 90 m past the Kluskoil almost no current and support a large necessary. There is an extended series beaver population. Often there are of rock gardens and fast water, but the exposed sections of bedrock, but the water is shallow enough to step out of the canoes and walk around im­ passable areas. Often the river slows to form deeper pools, and a marshy character is evident towards the shore. 34

general pattern is similar to the lake Nazko confluence, the river broadens Just before the Euchiniko con­ system in that there is open vegetation considerably and is characterized by fluence, the river broadens consider­ on the left bank and a more dense gravel bars and an extremely wide ably, but the flood plain diminishes. coniferous stand on the right. flood plain. The current is fairly fast, As the Blackwater road parallels this Near the Nazko confluence, the but no rapids have formed along this final section there is considerable rapids and pools are replaced by a section. Cottonwoods and open grass­ fishing and camping. continuous section of fast water. land, with pine and spruce on the Gravel bars and numerous campsites bordering slopes, grow on glacial till characterize this lower portion. The and silt soils. The dwellings of three river often breaks into two shallow Indian reserves are visible from the channels, with a central island sup­ river. porting cottonwoods. There is a bridge before the Nazko confluence that could serve as a starting point. After the 35

Euchiniko Confluence to lower bridge For a few kilometres above the con­ fluence the river moves fairly slowly. After the confluence there is a sudden increase in velocity to about 6 km/h. The river narrows to an average of 25 m and begins to drop sharply down the gravel banks, chutes, and ledges with a gradient of 10 m/km. Several large and dangerous rapids are en­ countered in this section, but they can be run or portaged, depending on water levels and experience of the canoeists. The river lies at the bottom of a valley flat one kilometre wide. On the right bank the land rises gently to form

Blackwater River: chute five kilometres below Euchiniko confluence 36

rolling hills 500 m away, with pine, pools 45 m to 90 m long. After leaving A 730 m portage on the left over a spruce and fir as the principal vegeta­ the canyon the river resumes its former 60 m hill will bypass the canyon tion. Paralleling the left bank, 500 m character. The banks flatten and the entirely. The river again returns to its to one kilometre away, lie long grassy stream bed reverts to gravel and valley flat and plunges down the last ridges 100 m to 200 m high. The boulders. The river itself remains fast 15 km to the lower Blackwater bridge. stream bed winds down this valley in and steep, dropping very sharply for It sweeps around bends in violent a series of sharp bends through gravel another three kilometres. About 25 km corners, forming wide gravel bars on and boulders. below the Euchiniko confluence two the inside and high cutbanks and sand About 13 km below the confluence violent rapids precede the entrance cliff on the outside bends. of the Euchiniko, the river enters a to another 1.5 km canyon of lava and Ninety metres above the bridge, the small canyon eight kilometres long sandstone. Within the canyon, steep river suddenly turns left and enters a composed of lava, shale, and clay. walls tower 100 m above the river. The channel 15 m in width. Ahead looms Mineral pigments lend vari-coloured current slows, the river turns left, and the beginning of the dangerous lower hues to the walls and rocks. At points the entire Blackwater, normally 25 m canyon of the Blackwater. The road the river flows 30 m below the canyon to 30 m wide, glides through a gap of here provides easy access to Quesnel. rim, although the average depth is 14 m. To the left is the overhanging 15 m. It drops over ledges, through canyon wall, to the right a mass of chutes and down rapids separated by boulders forming a rocky point. The river drops over a ledge and leaves the canyon. The entire section must be reconnoitred from shore before any attempt is made to run the canyon. 37

4 Bowron River 38

Bowron River Access and egress Maps required

Bowron Lake to Fraser River Access to the Bowron River is by (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) Highway 26 from Quesnel. The road 93 H McBride Length is paved as far as Barkerville, and 93 G Prince George 3 to 6 d (173 km) then gravel to Bowron Provincial Park. 93 J McLeod Lake 2 to 6 portages Log jams on the upper 16 km of the 93 I Monkam Pass Bowron may be avoided by using the Date of survey secondary road which follows the right late June 1973 bank. Canoeists should unload where the road first meets the river, 11 km from the government campground. Hansar's Bridge, four kilometres from the confluence with the Fraser River, is the best point to end the trip. There is road and rail access to Prince George from the community of Upper Fraser, located nine kilometres down­ stream from the confluence of the Fraser and Bowron Rivers. Once the bridge, 2.5 km upstream from the mouth of the Bowron, is completed this road would be the best route to Prince George. 39

About the river

Geography Flora Fauna The Bowron River is ultimately fed by The drainage basin of the Bowron Moose, bear, mule deer, eagles, ducks glacial meltwater from the Cariboo River lies in the Columbia Forest re­ and geese may all be seen along this Mountain system. The river then cuts gion, which due to the Columbia river. At the entrance of streams Dolly through the Fraser Plateau, where Mountains, receives a higher precipi­ Varden and rainbow trout abound. In surrounded hills rise 600 to 1 000 m tation than most of the Interior Plateau. August the salmon run up the river to above the river. In the upper reaches of Spruce dominates on the well-drained the headwaters of the Bowron. Several the Bowron, the high hills and ridges slopes of the river valley. In the poorly- species of ducks and Canada geese are often obstructed from view by drained sections of the basin, espe­ nest on the river and ospreys, and fairly high banks. Along the middle cially where the river meanders bald- and golden-eagles may be seen. stretches of the river steep valley walls through wide flats, there are alder and rise 60 to 100 m above the river, and willow swamps. Douglas fir on well- several canyons work an area of river drained hillsides is usually mixed with regeneration. The topography changes other species. A few stands of lodge- again and the V-shaped valleys are pole pine are also present. There are replaced by a low but broad terrace. cottonwood and birch along the banks Bars of gravel and eroded sand banks of the river, the former being most predominate until the Highway 16 numerous in the lower river. The tree- bridge. Snow-capped mountains are line in this area occurs at 1 665 to visible at several locations along this 1 800 m above sea level. segment offering a field of vision unique to this river trip. 40

The canoe trip

History Bowron Lake to Haggen Creek rapids continue, and at high water the The Bowron River has only slight his­ In the first 16 km of the Bowron River, inside of each corner is the safest torical significance because of its six log jams completely cross the river, course. At Kilometre 45 the rapids be­ difficulty of navigation. However, in and caution is required. In some in­ come more intense and a canyon be­ 1860 Billy Barker's gold strike on stances the canoes can be lifted over gins which runs to Kilometre 63. The William's Creek brought thousands of the few logs that block the river. At canoeist must certainly survey these prospectors to the area. Antler Creek, least three others require portages of rapids from shore before attempting which flows into the Bowron River 18 m.The water is then smooth as far to run them. At high water it may be near Bowron Lake Bridge, was one of as Eighteen Mile Creek, which enters advisable to keep to the left around the richest gold mining sites. Eighteen from the left. A section of rough, the first outcrop and then cross to the Mile Creek also yielded some gold, but though navigable water begins 275 m right for the final chute. At shallow strikes there were too small to be of upstream from the entrance of this water, the right side may be the best great significance. creek. One kilometre below Eighteen course. One must be careful of the Mile Creek and just below a small whirlpools and powerful eddies on the island, there is a sharp S-turn caused extreme left. Two point five kilometres by three protruding logs. below the canyon there is some rough About 38 km downstream from water around a right bend in the river, Bowron Lake (eight kilometres below which can be run with caution. There Eighteen Mile Creek) a 13 km long rapid begins. The first section requires manoeuvring to avoid boulders. The 41

is no portage trail around the above- but great caution is required as the Below the Highway 1 6 bridge are mentioned canyon. The river continues passage could close at any time. The found the most difficult rapids of the to pick up speed until it reaches the river continues through a large forest entire river. They are 22 km long and entrance of Haggen Creek. A log jam fire burn. High gravel banks become contain 16 sections of individual drops has resulted around the supports of an more frequent and the river widens and ledges. The first two sections be­ old bridge just above Haggen Creek, after an abandoned coal mine is gin 180 m below the bridge. There are but a passage can be found on the passed on the left. a number of routes, but the left side extreme left. appears best. The third section is a Taspai Creek to Cottonwood short canyon marked by high black Haggen Creek to Taspai Creek Island walls as the river turns left. The best Haggen Creek is a beautiful, clear cold One kilometre below the entrance of route is left of centre, avoiding boils mountain stream adding volume and Taspai Creek, the first of three long and back eddies. Below this small speed to the Bowron River. The river rapids sections begins, before the river canyon is the fourth section. It is continues moving quite fast with two reaches Highway 16. These sections navigable by a variety of routes. The small easily-negotiated rapids follow­ require experienced white-water river continues for 2.5 km below with ing. Below Spruce Creek the river canoeing techniques. The first rapid is a fast smooth current. The fifth and remains fast until another small rapid located in a wide part of the river. sixth sections are short and close is reached 500 m upstream from the There is a variety of routes through the together. They may almost be con­ crossing of the 750 m contour line. boulder field: the right side may be sidered ledges though they may be Three kilometres below this small best for the first two sections while the run, depending on water level and the rapid there is a very long log jam. A left is the best route for the third. The experience of the canoeist. The right passage exists on the extreme left, Highway 16 bridge may be seen from channels may be the easiest to run for the third rapid section. If the trip is to both these sections. Open canoes will end here, the canoes may be taken out just below the bridge on the left bank. 42

ship water. The seventh section is may be run on the right. The second is quent mud banks forming the channel split by an island. The right channel a small ledge, but there is a chute on wall. About 500 m below Cottonwood is a better route, especially at high the extreme right which can be run. Island the river makes a sharp left water. The river walls now become The third drop cannot be run, and a turn through a narrow high-walled higher. The next three sections all 27 m carry is required on the right canyon. One must be careful of the contain a main chute and either side side. This drop then opens into a short powerful eddies and boils. At the end of the chute may be run. One kilometre canyon with high walls and turbulent of the canyon a lumber road bridge below is a rough section, marked on water. The last rapid in this section spans the river. Five kilometres below the topographic map; it cannot be run, occurs 500 m below this canyon. Dur­ Cottonwood Island is possibly one of so a 55 m carry along the left shore ing periods of high water, the right the most dangerous parts of the river. is required. The river then widens and channel is the best route. However, the Here there is a huge log jam with the just below is a very difficult rapid re­ left channel may be run along the left only passage on the extreme left quiring careful examination. The river bank, to the right of a large rock. This through a metre-wide channel. The is wide, so several routes are avail­ is the last of the fast and dangerous river is very strong and could very able depending on water level. The left rapids. easily pull a canoe under any part of of centre may be the best route, but the jam. The extreme right may look care must be taken to avoid small Cottonwood Island clear, but there is an unseen one-metre ledges and boulders. to the Fraser River ledge. At any time the left passage These rapids are followed by a three The 48 km river segment from Cotton­ may be closed and one should examine kilometre stretch of smooth fast water wood Island to the Fraser River is this from shore before continuing. The which precedes the last four sections unique in that the water velocity slows river below slows down and meanders of this 16-section rapid. The first sec­ considerably and extensive meander­ into the Fraser. The C.N.R. bridge is tion consists of a boulder field which ing occurs. Broad valley flats predo­ three kilometres below the confluence. minate, with low gravel bars, and fre­ 43

5 Chilcotin River 44

Chilcotin River Access and egress Maps required

Part One - Chilcotin Lake Chilcotin Lake can be reached by (N.T.S. 1:50 000 scale) to Hanceville following Highway 20 from Williams 93B/4W Redstone Lake and turning north 1.5 kilometres 93 B/4 E Redstone Length before Redstone B.C. at the bridge 93B/3W Alexis Creek 3to4d (113km) across the Chilcotin River. The lake 93 B/3 E Alexis 4 portages is 48 km north. Chilcotin Lake may 92 0/14 E Hanceville also be reached by float plane. Date of survey July 1973 45

Access and egress Maps required

Part Two - Confluence of Taseko and Chilko junction may be reached by (N.T.S. 1:50 000 scale) Chilko Rivers to Chilcotin River taking a left turn off Highway 20, 92 0/12 E Elkin Creek 21 km above Alexis Creek. This road 92 0/13 E Scum Lake Length up the Chilko River valley should be 93B/4E Redstone 1 d (22 k) followed for almost 16 km to a point 93 B/3 W Alexis Creek 1 portage where a yellow marker on a large tree on the right marks a left turn. The Date of survey junction is 6.5 km away on this route. July 1973 The egress point, the Hanceville Bridge, is 5.5 km by road from High­ way 20. 46

About the river

Geography wider valley flats to narrow and Flora The Chilcotin River flows through the straight canyons. The valley slopes are The Chilko-Chilcotin river basin lies in Fraser Plateau from an elevation of dry; consequently meadows and open the Dry Forest Region of central Brit­ over 1 500 m to 450 m above sea stands of conifers predominate. This ish Columbia. This area has a parkland level where it joins the Fraser River. has resulted in a semi-arid character, character, with growths of Douglas fir The topography surrounding the Chil­ unique to the Fraser Plateau. The river and Iodgepole pine interspersed with a cotin River can be divided into three bed and bank material is gravel. mixture of birchgrass, sagebrush, and types. The upper segment of the river The canyon walls feature finely other shrubs including black hawthorn, is not wide and meanders consider­ sculptured sandstone and clay sedi­ chokecherry and mock orange. On the ably with low till ridges forming the ments on high lava ridges. After upper Chilcotin River some spruce, valley walls. The river bed is com­ Hanceville, the Chilcotin plunges willow, and poplar grow near the posed of volcanic rock, often in the through a series of canyons and deep stream, but towards the Fraser Valley form of large boulders or low ledges. valleys. Farwell Canyon is marked by large vegetation tends to decrease. In Gravel bars predominate in the lower pillars of sandstone and cliffs com­ the more arid portions of the lower portion of the Chilcotin before it posed of loose gravel and lake sedi­ Chilcotin River, some cactus may be reaches the Chilko confluence. After ments. The lower canyons have steep seen. the Chilko enters the Chilcotin River, valley walls rising to over 300 m, the topography changes dramatically. vegetated by sagebrush and thinly High valley walls border the river flats scattered conifers. and often form deep canyons marked by lava escarpments. The river flows through alternate sections of broad meandering and braided patterns in 47

The canoe trip

Fauna History Part One — Chilcotin Lake Moose, bear, deer, and sheep inhabit The Chilcotin River is essentially to Hanceville the area. Game fish in the rivers belong linked with the history of the Chilcotin to the salmonoid family and include People. 'Chilcotin' means'people of the Chilcotin Lake to Chilko River rainbow trout, Dolly Varden and steel- blue water' while 'Taseko' means The Chilcotin River drains Chilcotin head (taken only in the Chilko and 'white water'. The Chilcotins of the Lake at its most easterly point. The lower Chilcotin rivers). There are also early times lived in covered dugouts in first 6.5 km offer minor canoeing dif­ a number of "coarse fish" in the sys­ the earth called 'Keekwilly holes'. ficulty through continuous fast and tem: suckers, squawfish and mountain These are found all along the Chil­ shallow rapids. This is followed by whitefish, all belonging to the carp cotin, but particularly fine examples eight kilometres of slow water. Open family. Runs of salmon occur at the exist just above the confluence with range and cattle can be seen at end of May and again in early June the Chilko. various points. Below this is 1.5 km and July. The first written history came with of shallow fast water not unlike the the advent of the white man and the 6.5 km stretch draining Chilcotin Lake Hudson's Bay Company. The Hudson's followed by 10 km of slow and easy Bay Company had one trading post canoeing. At this point a 210 m wide during the middle part of the last canyon extends for five kilometres, century on the north bank of the with a drop of 9.5 m/km. Within the Chilko, but this lasted only a few canyon is a series of boulder fields years. and ledges which are difficult to canoe, especially at low water. Lining is the best way to pass the difficult sections. This area contains two wind­ falls which completely block the river. 48

A boulder field 45 m long then 18 m upstream from the jam. Wading Bridge. Alexis Creek enters from the precedes a fast shallow section which and hauling the canoes through the north. Large standing waves are en­ runs four kilometres to the town of heavily overgrown stream channel may countered here as the river makes a Redstone. The Chilanko River enters be necessary. number of sharp turns. About 1.5 km 1.5 km below Redstone as the Chilcotin A ranch precedes the Chilko Road below there is a large chute that can separates into a number of channels, Bridge and the last 6.5 km of the river be run along the extreme right shore where all the banks are heavily over­ before the confluence with the Chilko beside a rock outcrop. Below the grown with alders and willows. The River. These last 6.5 km consist of Alexis Creek Bridge the river con­ channels become very narrow and narrow channels and a drop in eleva­ tinues fast and smooth for 19 km. Six shallow. tion of eight metres per kilometre. point five kilometres above the Hance­ In the next 15 km the river splits Here, there are shallow rock gardens, ville Bridge at Stoney Canyon is a into a number of these very shallow log jams, and willows extending out strong chute that is followed by relati­ narrow channels, blocked by frequent over the river. vely easy canoeing all the way to the windfalls, and a number of fast, Hanceville Bridge. The best point of shallow chutes. One log jam 5.5 km Chilko River and Chilcotin River egress is on the left shore just past above the Chilko Road Bridge, can be Confluence to Hanceville the bridge. bypassed along a channel to the right. The Chilko River increases the initial volume of the Chilcotin River tenfold to form a wide cold river with a strong current. When running this section the only difficulty is the large standing waves. No other difficulties exist until four kilometres above the Alexis Creek 49

Part Two — Confluence of Taseko and Chilko Rivers to Chi I cot in River Below the confluence of the Taseko and Chilko Rivers, the first six kilo­ metres present no real problems, with the exception of high standing waves that are avoided by canoeing along the shore. A large S-turn with heavy stand­ ing waves then follows. The extreme right side of the river presents the best route through this rapid. Below is a more extreme S-turn, but this may be easily run along the right as well. This

Chilcotin River: Farwell Road Bridge, with salmon ladders underneath 50

is followed by a narrow, impassable gap spanned by a bridge. Once the bridge is sighted it is advisable to pull out on the right shore, where a 55 m portage crosses the bridge and con­ tinues down the left bank. Below the bridge the Chiiko presents no further problems. Hanceville is the probable egress point, but any other point along Highway 20 will do, as the Highway flanks the Chilcotin. 51

6 Cariboo and Quesnel Rivers 52

Cariboo and Quesnel Rivers Access and egress Maps required

Sandy Lake to Quesnel Sandy Lake, on the Bowron Lake chain, (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) can be reached only by canoeing the 93 H McBride Length lake chain itself from Bowron Lake. 93 A Quesnel Lake 5-9 d (173 km) Flying to Sandy Lake is prohibited as it 93 B Quesnel 6 to 13 portages is a protected lake within a provincial 93 G Prince George park. An alternative access point, Kim­ Date of survey ball (Swan) Lake, may be reached by Early June 1973, medium to high chartered aircraft from Quesnel, B.C. water levels Bowron Lake may be reached by road on Highway 26. This trip ends at the town of Quesnel, which is serviced by roads. 53

About the river

Geography In the vicinity of Sandy Lake, large Farther downstream, approaching the The Cariboo-Quesnel river system is mountains such as Mount Tinsdale rise confluence of the Cariboo and Quesnel, located for the most part in the to more than 2 000 m. Well-formed a typical plateau-type drainage devel­ Quesnel Highlands, a specific section cirques, matterhorns, and talus slopes ops. Deeply cut valleys with high sand of the Fraser Plateau. This area of are evident, as well as classical cliffs and a V-shaped profile predo­ deeply dissected lava plateau attains U-shaped valleys. Unna Lake is a large minate. The water flows very fast with an average elevation of 2 000 m above kettle in the outwash plain. It is likely several sets of rapids and much under­ sea level although the rivers vary from that ice moved down the Cariboo cutting of the gravel banks. Shallow 870 m in the upper regions to 600 m River, for there is evidence of a point bar deposits and even a moder­ on the lower Quesnel River. The head­ U-shape in the upper portion. Only a ately braided pattern are distinct waters of the Cariboo River are found few kilometres downstream from features. A few kilometres upstream near the ice-fields of the Cariboo Unna Lake, the more youthful V-shape from Quesnel, the river again flows Mountains, so the upper portions of predominates. Cariboo Falls, 2.5 km through a steep-walled canyon. Bed­ the river are distinctly mountainous. downstream, is characterized by large rock and eroding sand cliffs charac­ outcrops of sedimentary bedrock. The terize the valley walls. rather straight channel, V-shaped valley pattern continues up to a magni­ ficent canyon 15 km downstream from Cariboo Falls. Sheer cliffs rising 100 m to 1 50 m above the river border the valley floor. The river then becomes a slow-moving meandering stream with broad valley flats and several ox-bow lakes and meander scars. 54

Flora Fauna History The Cariboo-Quesnel river system is Moose are the mammals most often The earliest inhabitants of the Cariboo in the Columbia Forest Region. The seen, but bear, both black and grizzly, River area were the Carrier Indians. dominant species of trees are Douglas mule deer, beaver, wolverine, wolf, Their name was derived from the fir, spruce, and lodgepole pine with coyote, otter, weasel and porcupine custom of compelling the widows to some birch, cedar and hemlock. In also inhabit the area. Canada geese and carry the charred bones of their late addition aspen thickets and cotton- a variety of ducks can be seen as well husbands on their backs for a period wood grow along the banks of the as bald- and golden-eagles, osprey, and of one year after cremation. In latter river. Further downriver the amount a variety of hawks. Dolly Varden, lake times they have adopted the name of deciduous growth increases. trout, and rainbow trout are present Tukulli. The area was known as New although logging operations are affect­ Caledonia in the latter part of the eight­ ing these adversely. eenth and first part of the nineteenth centuries. Gold was discovered at Keithley Creek in 1859, and by the following year the Cariboo gold rush was at its peak. Keithley Creek was still panned and mining in the area continued, even after the rush itself. 55

The canoe trip

Between 1874 and 1954, gold worth Sandy Lake to Kimball Lake The portage is on the right and begins $27 million was taken. Quesnel Forks, Sandy Lake is drained by the Cariboo about 18 m upstream from the falls. for a brief time was the capital of River at its northwest corner. The cur­ The 675 m trail is in poor condition and British Columbia, was used as a stop­ rent increases there and a few sections terminates below the falls at an old ping place en route to Barkerville, on of riffles and gentle rapids are en­ trapper's cabin. The river continues at the Cariboo Trail. The townsite was countered before Cariboo Falls. Cari­ a fast pace and includes three gentle first surveyed by the Royal Engineers boo Falls is eight kilometres down­ rapids which can be run. Eight kilo­ in 1861. Although there were few per­ stream from Sandy Lake. A small open metres below the falls a larger rapid, manent buildings in the area, 10 000 rapid just upstream from the falls can which may be run down the left side, miners flocked there, and stayed for be easily run. Here the falls can be indicates the beginning of a gorge and two summers, most of them living in heard and the right hand shore is the canyon, 2.5 km long, just above Kim­ tents around the mouth of the creek on best route as the river bends to the left. ball Lake. The canyon can be neither Cariboo Lake. After the main gold rush run nor lined. An old logging road of 1859-60, the Chinese carried on exists on the right side of the river. much of the mining and exploration. 56

It is in poor condition but serves as a portage, 5.5 km in length and with a climb of 390 m. A three-kilometre carry on the left side is the only alternative. As there is no trail, this route is exhausting and may take up to 12 h to complete. The canoes must be hauled up a 135 m hill and then lowered or winched down into the gorge. The gorge has sheer walls 100 m to 120 m high.

Cariboo and Quesnel rivers, looking up­ stream to Cariboo Falls 57

Kimball Lake to Quesnel Forks falls, but a 90 m carry on either side Below this log pile, which is half way Below Kimball Lake the current sub­ is required. The river is very narrow between the Quesnel Forks and the sides and the river meanders about and swift below the waterfall. The bridge to Likely, there is a tough short 25 km down into Cariboo Lake. The three-kilometre section from the falls rapid around a tight right hand bend. lake is 1 5 km long and is drained at to the beginning of a canyon may be Again it should be run on the inside of its southwest corner where the Cariboo run, but the canyon three kilometres the turn along the right. Downstream River narrows again. Three wide below the falls must be portaged. from this rapid, the river remains swift rapids precede a waterfall 5.5 km Again no trail exists to facilitate the with large standing waves on the out­ downstream from the lake. They can required 455 m carry on the left. Be­ side of each turn. all be cautiously run but more care tween this canyon and the bridge to must be taken here, where logs are Likely there are four more navigable pushed into the river by a lumber chutes. One must be wary of the large company. No trail exists around the standing waves along the outside edge where the river bends. Below the bridge, the series of rapids continues. There are five main rapids before a large stockpile of logs on the left at Murderer's Gulch. They may all be run on the inside of each corner; watch for eddies and log booms. 58

Quesnel Forks to Quesnel extremely high banks and fast, tight The river continues offering little prob­ At Quesnel Forks, the cold clear bends producing high standing waves lem to the canoeist, to a bridge at Quesnel River intersects the muddy and powerful boils and whirlpools. Sardine Flats. One must be careful of bark-saturated Cariboo River. Quesnel Extra caution is required to avoid float­ the tow log booms funnelling the logs Forks is an historic site, as it was the ing logs and log booms. One point five under the bridge. Eight kilometres first capital of British Columbia. Many kilometres below the mouth of the below the bridge is a short rapid called old log buildings remain. The Quesnel Beaver River, there is a ledge on the Little Canyon. This may be run along River drops an average of five metres right and a narrow chute on the left. the left. Around the corner, there is a per kilometre here, through high sand This large rapid may be run along the boil 10 m in diameter. The best course and gravel banks. Just above the left shore. Eight kilometres below this entrance of Buxton Creek, the river has rapid there is a powerful S-shaped chute just below a small island. This rapid should not be run but rather por­ taged for 100 m along the right shore. 59

is between the boils and the standing waves. Twenty-seven metres below is a chute which should be run on the left. The river continues uninterrupted for 10 km to Big Canyon. This canyon is 5.5 km long and is impossible to run in high water. The canyon is best ap­ proached along the right shore where a portage trail along a road can be seen from the river. The portage is 5.5 km long but easy. The beginning of the canyon is marked by a large 12m whirlpool on the left. Below this canyon the river runs one kilometre down through the town of Quesnel and into the Fraser River. 60 Further reading

Anon., British Columbia Canoe Routes, Hutchison, W. B., The Fraser, Clarke, Wood, G. A., Bowron Lake Provincial compiled and edited by Canoe Sport Irwin and Company, Toronto, 1950. Park, Canadian Geographical Journal, British Columbia, Nunaga Publishing Vol. LXVII, No. 4, 1963. Co., Ltd., Vancouver, 1975. MacDonald, Archibald, Peace River: a canoe voyage from Hudson's Bay to Woodcock, George, Ravens and Anon., Canoe Trips in Western Canada, the Pacific, by the late Sir George Prophets, Allan Wingate, Canada, Department of Interior, Na­ Simpson, 1828, edited by Malcolm London, 1952. tional Development Bureau, Ottawa, McLeod, J. Durie and Son, Montreal, 1930. 1872.

Fraser, Simon, The Letters and Jour­ MacKenzie, Sir Alexander, The Trail- nals of Simon Fraser, 1806-1808 makers of Canada . . . Voyages from edited by W. K. Lamb, Dominion Montreal, Courier Press Ltd., Toronto, Archivist, MacMillan Company, 1960. 1911.

Harrington, Lyn, The Fraser - Great Morice, A. G., Du Lac Stuart a I'ocean River of the West, Canadian Geograph­ Pacifique, Neuchatel, Paul Attinger, ical Journal, Vol. LXVII, No. 4, 1963. 1904, B.C. Archives.

Stanwell-Fletcher, Theodora, Drift­ wood Valley, Ballantine Books. New York, 1946.

Western Canada

Areas covered by reports in the Wild Rivers series are outlined on the map. Shaded area is covered by this report.

Now available in the series: Alberta Central British Columbia James Bay/Hudson Bay Quebec North Shore Newfoundland and Labrador Saskatchewan Yukon Territory

Soon to be available: Northwest Mountains The Barrenlands Southwestern Quebec and Eastern Ontario