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Wild Rivers: Central British Columbia

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Wild Rivers: Central British Columbia Indian and Affaires indiennes Northern Affairs et du Nord Wild Rivers: Parks Canada Pares Canada Central British Columbia Published by Parks Canada under authority of the Hon. J. Hugh Faulkner, Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs, Ottawa, 1978 QS-7064-000-EE-A1 Les releves de la serie «Les rivieres sauvages» sont egalement publies en francais. Canada Canada metric metrique Metric Commission Canada has granted use of the National Symbol for Metric Conversion. Wild Rivers: Central British Columbia Wild Rivers Survey Parks Canada ARC Branch Planning Division Ottawa, 1978 2 Cariboo and Quesnel rivers: Ishpa Moun­ tain from Sandy Lake 3 'It is difficult to find in life any event and water, taken in the abstract, fail as which so effectually condenses intense completely to convey any idea of their nervous sensation into the shortest fierce embracings in the throes of a possible space of time as does the rapid as the fire burning quietly in a work of shooting, or running an im­ drawing-room fireplace fails to convey mense rapid. There is no toil, no heart the idea of a house wrapped and breaking labour about it, but as much sheeted in flames." coolness, dexterity, and skill as man can throw into the work of hand, eye Sir William Francis Butler (1872) and head; knowledge of when to strike and how to do it; knowledge of water and rock, and of the one hundred com­ binations which rock and water can assume — for these two things, rock 4 ©Minister of Supply and Services Now available in the Wild River Metric symbols used in this book Canada 1978 series: mm — millimetre(s) Available by mail from Printing and Alberta m — metre(s) Publishing, Supply and Services Central British Columbia km — kilometre(s) Canada, Ottawa, K1A 0S9, or through James Bay/Hudson Bay km/h - kilometres per hour your bookseller. Quebec North Shore h - hour(s) Newfoundland and Labrador d - day(s) Catalogue No. R62-82/1978-7 Saskatchewan °C - degree Celsius ISBN: 0-660-10013-4 Yukon Territory Price Canada: $1.50 Soon to be available: Price other countries: $1.80 Northwest Mountains Price subject to change without notice. The Barrenlands Southwestern Quebec and Eastern Ontario 5 Table of Contents Foreword 6 4 Bowron River 37 Introduction 8 5 Chilcotin River 43 Climate 8 Planning the trip 9 6 Cariboo and Quesnel Rivers 51 Map of Wild Rivers of Central British Columbia 10 Further reading 60 1 Salmon River 11 2 Stuart and IMechako Rivers 19 3 West Road River 25 6 Foreword Wild rivers are a priceless part of our Long before Europeans laid eyes on natural heritage. These waterways, them, these rivers served the native untouched by the march of man's peoples as vital sources of both food technological progress, are the arteries and transportation. Later, the rivers of our land, and one of the main ele­ were to carry the newly-arrived Euro­ ments in its growth to nationhood. peans on other voyages of exploration From the copper-coloured waterfalls and exploitation throughout the vast of the Labrador plateau, to the Cana­ interior of the continent. And the dian Shield's labyrinth of lakes and settlers who followed travelled the streams, to the glacial torrents cutting same routes. through the western mountains — wild The waterways were the mainstay rivers are all that remain unharnessed of the fur trade; they were the high­ of those waterways which first made it ways to the gold rushes. They did possible for this huge and varied coun­ much to provide the economic nourish­ try to be explored and developed. ment through which Canada grew to its present stature. With the advent of modern tech­ nology, some of our rivers were har­ nessed to serve our new found needs. But thousands of kilometres of water­ ways, and the land they pass through, remain essentially untouched. 7 Today, Canadians are gradually Parks Canada is promoting these But there is one other very important rediscovering these fascinating wild challenging voyages of discovery, point that you must bear in mind. rivers. They are seeing nature on its which embrace both the past and the "Wild" really is the correct adjective own terms - enjoying its works from present. Wild rivers are important to to describe many of the rivers, and only the vantage of its own highways. They Canadians as integral components of experienced and well-equipped canoe­ are recreating the adventures of the our founding heritages. ists should enter these waters. You explorers; struggling over the same However, a good deal of down-to- will find them a tremendous challenge. portages as the heavily-burdened earth information about the rivers and So it's up to you. Our land and our "coureurs de bois"; running rapids their habits is needed before anyone rivers are waiting for you to explore which once hurtled "voyageurs" and attempts to navigate them. It is for this and rediscover them. their precious cargoes towards the reason that Parks Canada decided to markets of Montreal; gently floating carry out surveys of wild rivers all down majestic rivers which once across the country. We are publishing carried thousands of anxious prospec­ the results of these surveys in the tors toward the promise of gold. present series of booklets, in order to provide a practical guide for the mo­ dern "voyageur". 8 Introduction Climate The wild rivers of Central British Central British Columbia is an area of Columbia provide excellent recreation harsh extremes where weather condi­ opportunities for canoeists. In most tions can change dramatically within cases the upper reaches are accessi­ a few hours. The annual precipitation ble by road and the rivers, while pos­ averages between 23 cm and 51 cm sessing thrilling rapids and mountain and the summers are short, hot and scenery, do not generally require long dry, while the winters are long, cold portages. Moreover, although dis­ and wet. The average July temperature playing attributes of true wilderness is 13°C, but great variations are to these rivers are not impossibly remote be expected and frost can occur in any from centres of supply and assistance. month. The growing season, the num­ During the high water levels of ber of days on which the temperature June and early July the rivers are full, rises above 6°C ranges from 130 to fast and powerful, and extreme cau­ 170 d. However, summer frosts may tion is necessary to avoid log jams reduce the effectual growing season to occurring at sharp bends in the river. three or four weeks. The rivers usually Conversely, at lower water levels, from break up in early April and freeze in mid-July onward, obstacles in the mid-November. water may be uncovered or lie close to the surface. 9 Planning the trip In planning a canoe trip, allow 25 km afterwards they should be extinguished In the more isolated regions an to 30 km per day paddling. Always completely with water, smothered with emergency survival kit is recommended. allow extra time and food for such sand or soil and stamped down firmly. The kit should contain high-energy unforeseen events as being wind- All garbage should be packed out with food rations, waterproofed matches, bound or delayed by rain. you. fishhooks and line, and emergency If egress is to be made by plan make A sturdy canoe capable of handling rescue flares for signalling aircraft. sure arrangements have been made well in rapids plus equipment for its These items should be well water­ before you begin the trip. repair are essential. Aluminum canoes proofed; if the kit is small it can be Be sure to check in with some were used throughout the wild rivers worn on your belt. Firearms are never responsible agency (the R.C.M.P., the surveys and proved most practical. necessary. British Columbia Ministry of Forests Since lining and hauling are often or Ministry of Recreation and Conser­ necessary, lengths of strong rope are Warning vation), giving them your route and essential. Several pairs of high-cut Sweepers, log jams and some chan­ expected time of arrival. Do not forget running shoes or other sturdy foot­ nels are a constant and changing haz­ to check out with them at the end of wear, which can take the abuse of ard. Unlike permanent hazards, such the trip. rocks and constant wetness are also as rapids and waterfalls, their pres­ Permits for fires and fishing may be needed. ence cannot be reliably documented required. Extreme caution should be in reports of this type. exercised in the use of fire. Campfires Canoeists should be alert to these should be built on rock or sand only; dangers which are more prevalent dur­ ing periods of high water. 10 The National Topographic maps are available from: Canada Map Office Room 147 615 Booth Street Ottawa, Ontario K1A0E9 11 1 Salmon River 12 Salmon River Access and egress Maps required Great Beaver Lake to Salmon Access by road is possible to a point a (N.T.S. 1:250 000 scale) Valley Bridge few kilometres below Great Beaver 93 J McLeod Lake Lake, by following the Salmon River Length Road to a wilderness hunting camp on 5 to 8 d (168 km) the Salmon River. This same road 9 to 12 portages crosses the Salmon River just above the confluence with the Muskeg River, Date of survey and provides an access point for July 9 to 13, 1973 three-day trip through the finest portion of the river. Float planes may land on Great Beaver Lake, and this access point is best for a plane base.
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